Lightweight Raglan Pullover
A circular raglan pullover is a wonderfully empowering thing for first-time sweater knitters. Creating one is like receiving a decoder ring for sweater-making. It unlocks secret geometries and makes simple sense of what is, after all, a pretty complicated garment.
Who knew you could knit three tubes (i.e. 2 sleeves and a body) and then join them together into a larger tube (i.e. a yoke)!?! From there, regular “raglan” decreases shape the shoulders, from the underarms to the neckline. And in our Lightweight Raglan Pullover, subtle details, like cording stitch edges and short row shaping, give beginners a good challenge and keep experts interested.
Purl Soho’s Linen Quill effortlessly elevates this simple sweater into something truly special. Its blend of wool, alpaca, and linen gives the Lightweight Raglan Pullover a soft bloom, a beautiful drape, and a unique look.
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Whether this is your first sweater or your hundredth, I hope you enjoy the magic. No matter how many new tricks I learn, I turn to this intuitive construction method time and time again, loving how it unlocks the world of sweater-knitting! -Laura
Update: Now in Cattail Silk!
August 2018
We love our Lightweight Raglan Pullover in Linen Quill, but for summer, we love it even more in beautiful Cattail Silk… as light and gentle as a warm breeze! Cattail Silk comes in a stunning array of colors and is 618 yards per skein… which means, to make a Cattail Silk version, you’d just need 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins!
UPDATE: NEW COLORS
January 2022
Whether it’s your first sweater or fiftieth, casting on with something special makes the knitting special. And when it comes to our Lightweight Raglan Pullover in Linen Quill, the mix of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen ensure every stitch of this sweater is a thrill, no matter how many times you’ve knit it. See our two new versions here!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoLightweightRaglanPullover, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is approximately 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1155 (1285, 1420, 1555, 1695) (1830, 1955, 2080, 2195) yards required. We used the color Oatmeal Gray.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles, depending on size you are making
- US 4, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 4 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
YARN UPDATE: For a fantastic alternative to Linen Quill, try our Cattail Silk fingering weight yarn! It has a very subtle shine, a wonderfully earthy texture, and a casual spin speckled by little nubs of color. It comes in a stunning array of colors and is 618 yards per skein… which means, to make this Lightweight Linen Raglan, you’d just need 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 4) skeins!
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
28 stitches and 33 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE: For help picking the correct size, visit our Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size Tutorial.
32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-47) (48-51, 52-55, 56-59, 60-63) inches, with 1-4 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge of Back: 22¾ (23¼, 23½, 23¾, 24) (24¼, 24¾, 25¼, 25¾) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge (measured at side): 10½ (10½, 10¼, 10, 9¾) (9¾, 10, 10¼, 10½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16¾ (16¾, 17, 17½, 17¾) (17¾, 17¾, 18, 18¼) inches
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 36 inches, modeled with 3 inches of ease.
Notes
CONSTRUCTION
This sweater is worked in the round from bottom up. You will begin with the Sleeves, then set them aside and work the Body from bottom to Underarms. There, you will join Sleeves, then work the raglan Yoke to Neckline, which you will shape with short rows. You will finish with the Neckband.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
CORDING STITCH
NOTE: For a photo how-to of this technique, visit our Cording Stitch tutorial!
*Use tip of right needle to pick up purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch (shown in pink, above)…
…Place purl bump on left needle, knit next stitch and picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
NOTE: If you anticipate having trouble identifying the stitches you need to pick up, visit our Cording Stitch tutorial for tips on adding a “lifeline.” This is a step you do before you work the Cording Stitch that helps indicate which round you’re picking up!
MAKE 1 RIGHT + LEFT (M1R + M1L)
NOTE: For more help with these increases, visit our Make 1 Right (M1R) + Make 1 Left (M1L) tutorial.
Make 1 Right: Use left needle to pick up strand (or “bar”) between last stitch and next stitch, from back to front. Knit into front leg. [1 stitch increased]
Make 1 Left: Use left needle to pick up strand between last stitch and next stitch, from front to back. Knit into back leg. [1 stitch increased]
SHORT-ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)
NOTE: For more information about this technique, please visit our Short Rows tutorial.
On the right side: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
On the wrong side: Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so right side is facing you.
PICKING UP PURL WRAP ON KNIT SIDE
NOTE: See this situation in action at minute 4:33 of our Short Rows tutorial.
Use tip of right needle to pick up wrap, inserting needle from front to back. Place wrap onto left needle, nudging wrap, if necessary, so it is after next stitch on needle. Slip first stitch knitwise, then slip wrap purlwise. Insert tip of left needle into front legs of two slipped stitches. Wrap working yarn around right needle to knit two together.
Pattern
Sleeves
Cast 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) (72, 74, 76, 78) stitches onto three double pointed needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place marker (pm) and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 8 rounds. (Note: If you’re planning on adding a lifeline, do so right after finishing your fourth round at the cuffs, collar, and hem!)
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch (see Special Instructions) to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 1 inch from cast-on edge.
Shape Sleeve
Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [2 stitches increased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) (4th, 4th, 4th, 4th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) (29, 23, 22, 24) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) (0, 3rd, 3rd, 3rd) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) (0, 8, 10, 8) time(s). [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) (132, 138, 142, 144) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 16¾ (16¾, 17, 17½, 17¾) (17¾, 17¾, 18, 18¼) inches from cast-on edge.
Next Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13) (15, 17, 19, 21), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn (removing end-of-round marker), knit to end of round. [76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches remain]
Cut yarn.
Place remaining stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn and set aside. This will be the Right Sleeve.
Make Left Sleeve same as Right Sleeve, but leave the 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Sleeve stitches on double pointed needles and set aside.
Body
Using a Long Tail Cast On, cast 224 (252, 280, 308, 336) (364, 392, 420, 448) stitches onto longer circular needles.
Place unique marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch for 8 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch to end of round.
Shape Bottom Edge
NOTE: In this section, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row. For extra help, see Special Instructions.
Short Row 1 (right side): K75 (84, 93, 103, 112) (121, 131, 140, 149), wrp-t (see Special Instructions).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): P38 (42, 46, 52, 56) (60, 66, 70, 74), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (4, 5, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8, 9), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (4, 5, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8, 9), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), wrp-t.
Short Row 6: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), wrp-t.
Short Rows 7-12: Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 three more times.
Short Row 13: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 14: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Rows 15-20: Repeat Short Rows 13 and 14 three more times.
Short Row 21: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 3), wrp-t.
Short Row 22: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 3), wrp-t.
Short Rows 23-28: Repeat Short Rows 21 and 22 three more times.
Short Row 29: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k75 (84, 93, 103, 112) (121, 131, 140, 149), wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 2 through 28 once more.
Next Short Row (right side): Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, slip marker.
Next Round: *Knit purl-wrapped stitch with its wrap (see Special Instructions), knit to next purl-wrapped stitch, knit purl-wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round.
Continue Body
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 14 (14, 13¾, 13½, 13¼) (13¼, 13½, 13¾, 14) inches from cast-on edge (measured at longest point, either at center Back or center Front).
Divide Front + Back
Division Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13) (15, 17, 19, 21), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Underarm (removing end-of-round marker); k112 (126, 140, 154, 168) (182, 196, 210, 224), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm; knit to Left Underarm (next stitch holder). [204 (224, 244, 264, 284) (304, 324, 344, 364) stitches remain: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) stitches each for Front and Back]
Yoke
Join Sleeves
NOTE: For help with this section, please visit our Joining Sleeves To Body Tutorial.
Joining Round: Holding Underarms parallel to each other, use working yarn from Body to k76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Left Sleeve stitches, pm; k102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) Front stitches, pm; slip on-hold Right Sleeve stitches onto spare needles and holding Underarms parallel to each other, k76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Right Sleeve stitches, pm; k102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) Back stitches, place unique marker for end-of-round. [356 (384, 416, 444, 476) (508, 532, 552, 568) total stitches: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) stitches each for Front and Back; 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches for each Sleeve]
Begin Shaping Raglan
SIZE 32 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
Sleeve Decrease Round: [K1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rounds once more. [348 total stitches: 102 stitches each for Front and Back; 72 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
SIZES 36 AND 40 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
SIZES 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, AND 64 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
Body Decrease Round: [Knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), k1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Body Decrease Round – (–, –, 2, 3) (3, 7, 11, 15) more times. [– (–, –, 432, 460) (492, 500, 504, 504) total stitches: – (–, –, 126, 134) (144, 146, 148, 150) stitches each for Front and Back; – (–, –, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches for each Sleeve]
ALL SIZES
Raglan Decrease Round: [K1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Raglan Decrease Round every round 0 (0, 2, 4, 6) (10, 14, 16, 16) more times, then every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) (27, 23, 21, 20) more times. [156 (160, 168, 176, 180) (188, 196, 200, 208) total stitches remain: 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) (68, 70, 72, 76) stitches each for Front and Back; 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) stitches for each Sleeve]
Set Up Neckline + Shoulder Shaping
Set-Up Round: Knit to next marker, sm, k36 (38, 41, 43, 45) (48, 50, 52, 55), place previous 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Neckline, knit to end of round. [138 (140, 146, 152, 154) (160, 166, 168, 174) total stitches remain: 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) (20, 20, 20, 21) stitches each for Left and Right Front; 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) (68, 70, 72, 76) stitches for Back; 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) stitches for each Sleeve]
Cut yarn.
Slip the following markers and stitches from left needle to right needle: slip end-of-round marker, slip 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) Left Sleeve stitches, sm, slip 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) (20, 20, 20, 21) Left Front stitches.
The stitch marker at Back Left now serves as a raglan marker instead of end-of-round marker, and the Front Neckline now marks the end of row.
SHAPE NECKLINE + SHOULDERS
NOTE: In this section you will again be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row.
With right side facing you, join yarn to Right Front stitches…
Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last stitch, wrp-t. [130 (132, 138, 144, 146) (152, 158, 160, 166) total stitches remain: 17 (17, 18, 18, 18) (19, 19, 19, 20) stitches for each Front; 52 (54, 58, 60, 62) (66, 68, 70, 74) stitches for Back; 22 (22, 22, 24, 24) (24, 26, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to last stitch, wrp-t.
Short Row 3: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 5 stitches, wrp-t. [122 (124, 130, 136, 138) (144, 150, 152, 158) total stitches remain: 16 (16, 17, 17, 17) (18, 18, 18, 19) stitches for each Front; 50 (52, 56, 58, 60) (64, 66, 68, 72) stitches for Back; 20 (20, 20, 22, 22) (22, 24, 24, 24) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 4: Purl to last 5 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 5: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 8 stitches, wrp-t. [114 (116, 122, 128, 130) (136, 142, 144, 150) total stitches remain: 15 (15, 16, 16, 16) (17, 17, 17, 18) stitches for each Front; 48 (50, 54, 56, 58) (62, 64, 66, 70) stitches for Back; 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) (20, 22, 22, 22) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 6: Purl to last 8 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 7: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) (11, 12, 12, 12) stitches, wrp-t. [106 (108, 114, 120, 122) (128, 134, 136, 142) total stitches remain: 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for each Front; 46 (48, 52, 54, 56) (60, 62, 64, 68) stitches for Back; 16 (16, 16, 18, 18) (18, 20, 20, 20) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 8: Purl to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) (11, 12, 12, 12) stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 9: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 3 times, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, wrp-t. [100 (102, 108, 114, 116) (122, 128, 130, 136) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for Right Front; 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) (16, 18, 18, 18) stitches for Right Sleeve; 44 (46, 50, 52, 54) (58, 60, 62, 66) stitches for Back; 15 (15, 15, 17, 17) (17, 19, 19, 19) stitches for Left Sleeve; 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 10: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Short Row 11: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 2 times, k1, wrp-t. [96 (98, 104, 110, 112) (118, 124, 126, 132) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for Right Front; 13 (13, 13, 15, 15) (15, 17, 17, 17) stitches for Right Sleeve; 42 (44, 48, 50, 52) (56, 58, 60, 64) stitches for Back; 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) (16, 18, 18, 18) stitches for Left Sleeve; 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 12: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, p3, wrp-t.
Short Row 13: Knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them, [k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker] 2 times, k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of row. [90 (92, 98, 104, 106) (112, 118, 120, 126) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for each Front; 40 (42, 46, 48, 50) (54, 56, 58, 62) stitches for Back; 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) (14, 16, 16, 16) stitches for each Sleeve]
Neckband
Changing to shorter needles, place a unique marker to indicate end of round.
Round 1: With right side facing you, k18 (20, 22, 24, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) on-hold Front Neckline stitches, knit to end of round, knitting remaining wrapped stitches with their wraps and removing remaining raglan markers as you come to them. [108 (112, 120, 128, 132) (140, 148, 152, 160) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch for 3 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch for 2 rounds.
Bind off all stitches loosely.
Finishing
NOTE: For help with Kitchener Stitch, visit our tutorial.
Holding Body and Sleeve Underarms stitches parallel to each other, use Kitchener Stitch to graft Underarm stitches together. Sew up any holes, if necessary.
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
Learn About Linen Quill + All Our Beautiful Yarns
We designed this project to highlight the uniquely beautiful qualities of our Linen Quill, a wonderful fingering-weight yarn that is a blend of 50% wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. It feels amazing in your hands, and in 70 jaw-droppingly gorgeous colors, Linen Quill is the candy store of yarn!
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- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
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Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Thank you! I have a sweater that looks almost identical to this one that I bought few years ago, and I’ve been looking for a pattern to make similar one. This will be perfect!
I love the looks of the cording stitch. Is it possible to add this onto a finished garment such as your pattern, straw summer top. I am in hopes that this will keep the bottom of the sweater from rolling much like the I cord is supposed to do but will add just a little more dimension to the hem. How supple is this stitch? It looks as though it makes the hem of this sweater stand out a little. I thank you for the clarification of ease you have placed in this pattern. It answers many unknowns. Your patterns and explanations are well written. This will be my next project just as soon as I finish my current two projects!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for the kind words! You can add the cording to any pattern’s hemline! All you need to do is knit a few extra rounds or rows and pick up from the bottom of those extra rounds or rows when you are ready. I hope you’ll like this sweater when finished. I have seen it on many people in the store and it is so flattering, yet casual. It’s really a great knit.
Best,
Adam
Thank you Adam for your response to my original question regarding this onto the bottom of the silken straw top. If I use this stitch instead of the suggested ” I cord” finishing trim, will it make the folds go in the opposite direction at the hem, up rather than down, as shown in your picture of this top?
Hi Jane,
I think this stitch would look great on the silken straw top. In regards to how the stitch lays, it’s actually more like a pin tuck and it juts outward about an 1/8″. It’s really subtle and I hope you like the technique! Happy knitting!
-Adam
Bom dia!
Agradeço, pelo envio deste tutorial, sobre esta blusa,
com manga raglan, será a minha 1° experiência. Espe-
ro fazer bem certinha.
Um abração.
Sonia Rücker.
Yet again, you’ve read my mind. This pullover, with all the techniques involved, is perfect for my and my DIL’s first pullover KAL. Thanks as always.
Hey Megs – I’m going to knit it too. Later though, otherwise I’d ask to join your KAL. Kathy. (SW France)
Love this sweater pattern
I love this sweater! I’m noticing it’s difficult to find nice looking, modern sweater patterns for men. Do you think this would be a good option for my XL boyfriend? Any adaptations I could make to make it a bit more “man-shaped”? Thank you!
Hi Jillian,
This sweater pattern is great for men! Since it’s got a lot of ease for women, it might fit snugly for your boyfriend. I would do a gauge swatch and figure out how many stitches per inch you are getting. After doing this I would multiply your stitches per inch by the chest size you desire (with at least 2″ ease) and cast on that amount roughly. The only other suggestion I could make is to make it longer for a man. Otherwise, there is no waist shaping to eliminate, so you are good to go! Good luck on this project!
-Adam
Very nice!
I’ve got several skeins of an alpaca/silk blend that would work well for this sweater!
And I have an inkling that it will become one of those wardrobe staples, like the Over the Top top, meaning that I’ll most likely end up knitting several of these sweaters!
Is this sweater suitable for men? I don’t see waist shaping so I’m assuming it is. Do men wear curved hem sweaters? 🙂 thanks for your input!
Hi Michelle,
I think this sweater would be great on a man! I tried it on, being a man, and it fit really well through the shoulders and back. The only thing I’d do is make the body longer because it was slightly cropped on me. I think you should go for it!
-Adam
This sweater is just my style and so tempted in knitting it the only problem I see is the yarn suggested seems like it has a good amount (50%) of wool in it. I am quite sensitive to wool. The Merino seems to work because it is soft. Do you have any other suggestions as to what I could use? This is the only drawback in not being able to feel the yarn. Wish I was closer to your store. Your suggestions would be appreciated.
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for the kind words! I suggest our Line Weight if you would like to do this in a softer Merino. If you want to do this in plant fiber, I would suggest Habu Dyed Bamboo. I love, love, love this yarn! It has a subtle sheen and the colors are gorgeous. I hope these suggestions work out for you!
-Adam
I really love the corded edging on this sweater! And the sleeve decrease details! Lovely!
I could finally use my sock-knitting skills to make my first sweater.
I love this simple but wonderful pattern!! I´d definitly will knit one for my self! Thank you soo much!
Thank you!
I really like the body of the sweater but I’m going to scoop out the neck more. High necks aren’t good on me.
Kathy: How would you “scoop out the neck more”?
I’m not a high neck person either.
Thanks Joan
Hi Joan – it just requires some maths to start the centre neck decreasing earlier and rounding it off as getting towards the shoulders. Usually takes me a little while to work it out!
How many skeins are used to make the body of the sweater, roughly? I want to use three colors to make this so a different color for each sleeve and the body. I’d like to make a 44in one so I’d need four skeins. I’m thinking two probably for the body?
Hello Hope,
I think you are right about using 2 skeins for the body for the 44″ size. Also, I think it’s a great idea to use three different colors! The way the sweater is constructed you will end up changing the color at the biceps and the yoke will be in the body color. Best of luck on this experiment! It will be great I’m sure.
-Adam
Oooh! Can’t wait to start
Hi! I have beautiful linen yarn and this is the perfect pattern to use it on – thank you!! Just a couple questions – 1) can you tell me what the sizing is? You have it listed as 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) for skeins. Is that xs, s, m, l, xl or is it xxs etc? and 2) in the section Begin Shaping Raglan, is that it for 36 + 40″ – knit next round – seems like other sizes have more info provided so just wanted to be sure.
Thanks!!
Hi Laurie,
So glad this will work out for your yarn stash! The skein amounts refer to the chest sizes listed in the pattern in the same order. For example, if you are knitting size 36, you’ll need 3 skeins (of Linen Quill yardage). For the “Begin Shaping Raglan” section you will skip over the size 32 directions and follow what is under the size 36-40. Next you’ll follow the directions under “all sizes”. I hope this clarifies things a bit!
-Adam
Thank you Laura for another gorgeous pattern! I sometimes feel like you are my personal stylist!
All the best!
susan
from bainbridge island
Susan! You’ve made my day! Hope all is well out on Bainbridge. Best -Laura
Easily half of my wardrobe consists of clothing I’ve made from Laura’s patterns.
Thank you very much for the nice pattern.
Hello, I love this pattern, but I’m quite new to knitting. I am scared of DPN’s but am fine with circulars. Is there a reason for using DPN’s for the sleeves? Would it be OK to use a circular? If so, what length would you recommend?
Hi Genna,
Thanks for the kind words! We use DPNs for the beginning of the sleeves because it is a small circumference. You can use an 8″ circular needle at the sleeve opening if you want to stick with circulars or you can use a technique called “magic loop” for which you’ll find many YouTube tutorials. DPNs can be awkward at first but once you get used to them and knit a few inches of fabric they can be quite enjoyable! Best of luck on the project!
-Adam
The ease statement confuses me – the largest size of this pattern fits a 45″ bust???
Hello Rae,
Thanks for writing us! For this garment you’ll want to measure your chest and then add 3″ to that measurement. Next you’ll pick the “finished chest circumference” that best matches this number and knit that size. By doing this you are adding in ease so you can move around in the sweater or add layers. For example, if your chest measures 32″ around with the tape measure wrapped tightly around, you will probably want to make the 36″ size. I hope this helps!
-Adam
A beautiful sweater and pattern! I would like to make this in the 36″ size but would like to make it 2-3 inches longer. Will 3 skeins be enough or should I go up to 4?
Hi Kristen,
Thanks so much for your interest in this pattern! I would buy a fourth skein just in case you need it. It can’t hurt and if you don’t use it you can ship it to the store or the warehouse for store credit along with all your info (name, address, phone number, and that you want a credit). Best of luck knitting this!
-Adam
Thank you for a great pattern, we have a small knitting groupie my bakery and we are going to do this as a group project. I know somebody asked previously about an alternative yarn. The yardage seems to be the same. Will the drape be the same. I love the color choices Line Weight. By any chance do you suggest a cotton yarn?
Hi Beth,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! I think the drape of the Linen Quill is quite unique. Any yarn with linen in it seems to add more texture. I think that Line Weight would be a great substitute and this yarn, being 100% merino, will be doughy and soft. We don’t have any cotton fingering yarns in the shop, but I do recommend the Habu Dyed Bamboo. I love this yarn. It is smooth and has a great sheen. All the best to you and your group!
-Adam
I love this (and all of the other Purl patterns I have made)! Can you please advise how one would make this with a scoop neck?
Thank you!
Hi there!
Thanks for your kind words! We don’t have the resources currently to customize patterns for our customers but I can assure you that the neckline is roomy and does not ride high. When I tried this sweater on I actually really admired the neckline construction. It fits really well!
-Adam
This looks lovely! I’ll be casting it on as soon as I finish my current project (the PurlSoho top down turtleneck cardigan…). My only concern is that the neckline looks high for me, so I’ll be attempting to adapt the pattern for a slightly more scooped neck. Any tips on doing this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks much, Shayna
Hi Shayna,
Thanks for the kind words! I think you could start the neckline earlier and short row 1 stitch farther out for each row instead of multiple stitches. This might take some math, but it might be worth it. Also, I tried this sweater on in the store and the neckline is actually really well built and is not too high in my opinion. I think it might just look that way in the picture. I hope you still give this pattern a try! It’s great!
-Adam
Thanks! Maybe I’ll do it as is and if it doesn’t work for me I can always rip it back a bit…
Hi, I have a question about this second instruction under “shaping sleeve”.
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times. [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) stitches]
I am making 36″ size – is the zero times mentioned twice in the second half of the instructions correct?
Thank you!
Hi HJ,
Thanks for writing us! This is correct because you will increase every 6th round 18 times, giving you a total of 108 rounds. The math works out for the other sizes as well, which is how I checked. Good luck on this project! I love this sweater!
-Adam
Ciao,io sto cercando di realizzare la taglia 40 .
Il primo aumento e’ da fare solo 5 volte? È corretto?
Grazie
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for reaching out. Since you’re making size 40, you’ll start by working an increase round every 6 rounds, but after you do that 5 times, then you’ll switch to working an increase round every 5 rounds 16 times. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
What a beautiful-looking (and unusual blend)! And oh boy, is the yarn proving popular. Do you know when the colors will be back in stock?
Hello Colleen,
Thanks for writing us! This yarn sure is popular! I can’t guarantee an exact date of when all the colors will come back in but you can certainly call the NYC store to see if they have any stock of a color you are looking for. The number is 212-420-8796. If your color isn’t in stock you can ask the store to call you when it comes back in. I hope we the store has your color!
Best,
Adam
I live in the UK so I am having to substitute the yarn for this project with a yarn by Mirasol (sulka legato). I am using 3.5mm needles and my tension square is 28 x 36. Will more stitches in the length per 10cm be a problem for me with this pattern. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks
Hi Jinny,
Thanks for the comment! The Sulka Legato seems like a wonderful substitute for this project! Since this yarn has quite a bit of silk and alpaca, I feel that the sweater will grow lengthwise. That being said, if you haven’t wet blocked your swatch, you should try to in order to see if blocking will achieve the required gauge.
The body of the sweater is easy to make longer, as all you have to do is knit more rounds. As for the raglan, this part of the sweater has a lot of room (judging by the sample in the shop), so you should also be fine with the yoke area. I hope this works out for you! Thanks again for writing in!
-Adam
Another question! In total I have 1500m of yarn and I am knitting in size 40. Would you know how many meters size 40 takes in Linen Quill? I note that sizes 40 – 48 take 4 skeins (1640m). Thanks.
Hi Jinny,
Thanks for writing in! The size 40 takes approximately 1250 meters so you should be fine! I hope you like this project!
-Adam
Thank you for your wonderful patterns, they are so loverly and beautiful yet very doable at the same time, I hope to buy some of your gorgeous yarn soon, but I have quite a stash I have to work on first. Once again thank you for your lovely site.
You’re welcome! So glad you like our patterns!
-Adam
Help please. I am at the 16 3/4 inches for my first sleeve. What exactly are the “previous 10 st”? Are they before the K5? My K5 is at the beginning of the round. I am confused!
Thanks, Janet
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing in! This part is a bit confusing but I hope I can explain it to you. When you get to your end of round marker you will knit 5 stitches of the “next round” but stop after 5 stitches. Place these 5 stitches and the 5 stitches before the marker on to scrap yarn. These will be grafted later on. Hope this clarifies things a bit!
Best,
Adam
Do you think it would work to make the arms a different colour from the body like a baseball shirt? Would the join look messy maybe?
Hi Shulagh,
Thanks for writing in! It is possible to make the sleeves a different color, but this does make the project a little more advanced. You would have to either modify the pattern for raglan seams or do fair isle for the yoke section. I don’t recommend carrying the sleeve color throughout the body, so modifying the pattern for seaming would be my recommendation if you wanted contrast color sleeves. Best of luck!
-Adam
I am doing this size 40 and have torn out the body and reworked the short rows only to end up with the same problem I had the first go round….the scallop is not in the middle of the back 140 stithes. Have I done the same mistake twice, I got the exact same results…or is it your instructions.?.The math doesn’t work out.Please advise. I have recounted my cast on #, not that, I did my first short row at93, my second at 46. HELP
Hi Amy,
Thank you for reaching out to us! We have discussed and went over the math and we apologize for this mistake! Thank you for catching it! We have edited short rows 3 and 4 in the pattern and updated the website. Thank you so much again!
Best,
Adam
Hi, just visited your store today, I am here on vacation with my family from Norway! I ended up with buying much more than I expected 🙂 and now I cannot wait to get home to start with this raglan pullover that I bought three yellow skeins of this wonderful yarn for! I also bought some ‘Loft’ from Brooklyn Tweed, my soon choosed colors, and now sitting in the hotel room we look up patterns for this yarn and realize that we should have bought one more in another color, because we ended up with the pattern ‘Atlas’! Well, maybe we can find the yarn in Boston tomorrow or any of the other cities we will visit before we fly home. Will keep you posted how the pullover ends up, thanks for mailing the pattern! Kind regards, Hanne
Hi Hanne,
I’m so glad you found some great yarn and patterns at our shop! Brooklyn Tweed has a list of all their retailers on their website. I’d look at the list and see if you’ll be near any of the cities where their yarn is sold. Thanks for stopping by and hopefully we’ll see you on your next trip to New York!
-Adam
I am also knitting the size 40. I had the problem with the scallop not being centered but I figured it out. (I downloaded the pattern when it first came out so I didn’t have your correction.) Now I am at the top of the sweater doing the raglan decreases. For size 40 the pattern calls for 28 repeats of raglan decrease at every other row. It doesn’t say anything about a body decrease, and yet to end with 60 stitches for the front and back, a corresponding body decrease would have to be made along with the raglan decreases, no? That’s what appears to be in the photo–a body decrease, k1, k1, a raglan decrease. The two decreases appear to be separated by two k stitches. Advice? I keep re-reading the instructions, but can’t figure out what I am missing….
Hi Marlene,
Thanks for contacting us! I’m glad you figured out the error we caught in the scallop. Again, we are so sorry for the trouble! As for the raglan decreases, there is a decrease at the body and the sleeve. Imagine the raglan as four quadrants: the two sleeves and the front and back. The repeat is [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. This decreases two stitches per each quadrant, so there is a k2tog and ssk for the back, front and sleeves. I hope this clears things up! Let me know if you have any other questions.
Happy knitting!
Adam
I’m still confused. By quadrant do you mean each marker where the sleeve touches the body? I have four markers so at each marker I’m decreasing by two stitches. Is this correct?
Hello Carolyn,
Thank you for reaching out! The four quadrants are the front, the back, the right sleeve, and the left sleeve. This is each section that is marked off. Each marker has a decrease on either side of it.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello! I’m knitting the second size and have finally gotten through the initial short row section, after 3 attempts. Everything looks great (even scallops, etc) BUT I just counted my stitches after a good inch of stockinette, and I have 198 on the needles. What?? How on earth could I have gone down 54 stitches? I’m completely baffled! Any help so so appreciated!
Hi Hayley,
I’m just as perplexed as you are! Is it possible that you cast on the wrong amount? Also, make sure you are doing your short rows correctly by clicking here. Please let me know if any of these are the problem and don’t hesitate to write back with more details or questions. Thank you!
Best of luck,
Adam
I’ve started knitting this sweater in the Linen Quill yarn and completed the sleeves. Loving it so far, however having starting knitting the body I’m concerned that the cast on edge is rolling quite a lot. I’ve only completed short rows for one side at this point. Has anyone else experienced this? Will the rolling be fixed with blocking? Thanks.
Hi Mary,
I’m glad you’re loving the pattern! It is a fun one! The rolling will relax and flatten out with wet blocking. You’ll be surprised what a little water and soap will do to this yarn. Your garment will be soft, yet textural. Thanks for writing in!
-Adam
Hi Adam – thanks for the quick reply.
Cheers
Mary
I love this!! This will be my third time using a Purl Soho pattern, and after many years of knitting I’ve finally decided to try out a sweater so I’m excited to see how this goes!
My only question is this: I’ll be making the size 40 (because of the size of my bust & I generally like my sweaters a little bit looser anyway) BUT I am otherwise quite petite and have kind of a short torso, so I think the length of the body for the size 40 sweater might be a little long, and that either the size 32 or size 36 length might be more appropriate. I’m assuming I would just knit fewer rows in the section of the pattern titled “continue body,” is that correct? Sorry if this seems like a silly question–I just want to make sure I get this all right!!
Thank you for your help, and all of your wonderful patterns (and yarn)!!
Hi Erin,
Thanks for the kind words! I’m glad you like the pattern! The sweater is actually a bit cropped, so you might want to keep trying it on as you knit the body to make sure you don’t crop it too much. Also, you are correct in omitting some rows in the body section in order to crop the sweater more. This won’t change the way you attach the sleeves or do the raglan shaping. Good luck on the project and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting!
Adam
Okay, thank you! Once I receive the yarn and get to work on it I’ll be sure to update how it’s all going. 🙂
I am interested in knitting this (in the smallest size) and the open air wrap. If I use the same color, how many skeins of the Linen Quill do recommend I buy?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for your interest in our patterns! I think you’ll need five skeins total to do the smallest sweater and the open air wrap. We are out of all the Linen Quill colors except the Turmeric, but we expect the yarn to come back in a few weeks! Stay tuned for our post about them coming back in stock!
-Adam
Do I need to use double pointed needles on sleeves? Can I do them on short circular needles instead? I don’t like the double point needles as it gets very busy I feel.
Hi Brenda,
Thanks for writing in! You can use Addi Turbo 8″ circulars if you don’t like the feel of double pointed needles. I’m not a fan either! I also suggest learning magic loop, which is a technique we don’t have a tutorial for on our website. You can find many magic loop videos on YouTube. Check it out!
Best,
Adam
Looking forward to doing this pattern in size 40 and want to do the sleeves in a contrasting color to body. Your suggestion for ordering the appropriate number of skeins for each color? 2MC and 2 CC; 3MC and 1 CC? ?
Thanks for you help!
Hi Donna,
I think this is such a great idea! To do this you’ll need one skein for the sleeves and three for the body and yoke area. I just want to let you know that the sleeves are knit up to the armhole and then joined to the body and knit in the round for the raglan shaping. This will mean that you will have a contrast sleeve up until the armhole and then the whole yoke will be the main body color. The only way to make the contrast sleeve run all the way up to the neck is to seam the garment. This is possible, but takes a little bit of math. Good luck on the project!
-Adam
Such a beautiful sweater – I am interested in the warning about twisting the stitches – I think I understand the warning, but how would I ensure I’m NOT twisting the stitches as I knit? Love all the advice you give out…so very helpful!!
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for the nice comment! When knitting in the round it’s important to not twist the stitches so you can knit tubularly. In order to ensure that you don’t twist the stitches, place your needle down on a flat surface after casting on all your stitches and orient your cast on edges toward the inside of the circular needle. Make sure none of the stitches are looping around the cord of the needle. If you do all this carefully, you’ll have no problem not twisting your cast on! Best of luck on the project!
-Adam
I’m having a gauge problem that I don’t understand. I had to go down to a size 2.5 needle (3mm) to get gauge, but even then the wrist circumference is 2″ larger than it should be. I have no idea what to do!
Hi Susan,
I’m so sorry for this! You might just be a very loose knitter. Make sure you do your gauge swatch in the round. Sometimes people knit looser than they purl, which results in a looser gauge when doing stockinette in the round. Let me know if this is the problem and if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I’m so excited to make this sweater. My needles and yarn are all ready, however, can I ask what method of casting on everyone is using? My first row seems too ‘frilly’ with big loops at the bottom….
Hi Mary-Louise,
We used the long tail cast on on the sample sweater. If you’d like, you can go down a needle size for the cast on in order to tighten it up. I think you should give it a shot on the needle you’re working on because it might even out after the first round. Happy knitting and good luck!
-Adam
When doing the sleeve increases, does one knit to the last stitch and then increase (after) or make the increase before the last stitch?
Hi Susan,
Thank you for contacting us! The increases for the sleeve occur at the beginning and end of the same round. When getting to the 2nd increase in the round, you’ll knit to 1 stitch before the end of round marker and then increase. I hope this clears things up!
-Adam
This is lovely sweeter can’t wait for my yarn to arrive. Until that can you please give some more instructions for cording stitch.bHow often do I repeat it in one round? Also I should repeat it all the way through the length. This is my first pattern in English, any help would be appreciated. Thank you , Viktoria
Hi Viktoria,
Thank you for writing us! So glad you like the pattern. The cording stitch is only done in one round and it is done all the way around the work. Once you start knitting it’ll make a lot more sense!
Best of luck,
Adam
Thank you, that’s exactly what I needed to clarify
Vraiment très joli…mais je suis française et je ne connais pas l’anglais..
Est-il possible d’avoir les explications en français?
Merci de votre réponse.
Bip.
Bonjour,
Malheureusement il n’est pas possible de traduire les explications en français à ce moment mais il y a beaucoup de lexiques de tricot anglais-français sur internet. Cliquez ici pour un exemple. Merci pour votre question!
Bonne chance!
-Adam
Do the measurements on the sketch include the ease amounts? Thanks
Hi Christine,
Thanks for writing in to us! The measurements on the specs are the finished garment measurements. This means that they do not include ease. In order to incorporate ease you will need to look at how much ease is suggested and choose the size that best fits your chest measurement plus the intended ease. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Best,
Adam
No offense, but this is not the best choice for a first sweater. Short row shaping? Size 4 needles? Linen yarn (with no elasticity)? Those are all advanced topics. A new sweater-knitter will be done in by any of them. A first sweater should be knit on larger needles so there aren’t so many stitches. It should require minimal shaping because the knitter may have done very few decs and incs before. And it should use yarn with some give because that much knitting with inelastic yarn is tiring!
It’s okay to post a pattern for advanced knitters. Not everything has to be accessible to a first time sweater knitter. And this isn’t. It’s lovely, but it requires experience.
Hi Barclay,
Thanks for your comment. While this sweater does involve some advanced skills it is also empowers knitters to make something modern and wearable. If they are up for the challenge then it is a great sweater and even clearer pattern. The Linen Quill is actually mostly a wool/alpaca blend with a bit of flax in it, so the yarn is quite bouncy. Yes, this sweater is knit on US 4s, but that is a size that I’ve always preferred personally. The tuck stitch is optional but the short rows give this sweater an edge. All of our sweaters involve short row shaping at some point in the garment, but this one just has a little more. At Purl we encourage our followers to always try something new and learn new skills. You gotta start somewhere!
Best,
Adam
I have to agree with Barclay. I am not a beginner knitter and find this pattern very challenging but frustrating. I am stuck at the neck part right now and somehow my post regarding this question has disappeared so here I sit with my unfinished sweater….
Hi Jennifer,
We are sorry to hear that this pattern is causing you difficulties. We have responded to your earlier question and hope that we can help you finish this lovely sweater! If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to reach out!
Best,
Cassy
Hi,
The pattern is truly awesome, something which I had always wanted to knit.
But am stuck at a point, and need help here.
Where it says (the sleeve bit).. Next round.. K5, place the previous 14 stitches on scrap yarn, I don’t understand what it means. How do I place the previous stitches?
Could you guide me please?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Anita,
Thank you for writing us! If you are doing the smallest size, you will knit 5 stitches beyond the end of round marker and then place those 5 and the 5 stitches before the end of round marker on a stitch holder for the underarm. This is to ensure that the grafted underarm stitches are at the same height since knitting in the round is actually knitting in a spiral. Best of luck!
-Adam
Why in the world would we have to use 75 sheets of paper and loads of ink just for one pattern. It’s not because it’s free because I would gladly buy the pattern
But it’s really wasteful to use all of that paper and ink.
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! We do have a print option that is far shorter! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images, all of the images or the list of materials.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks for the printing hint I didn’t notice the print button initially either 🙂
Any reason you couldn’t do the sleeves two-at-a-time using Magic Loop or just using two circular needles?
Hi Michele,
Great question! You absolutely can! Just be sure to put a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your row and you will be all set!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi
I love reading through the comments and questions and your responses. I find them so helpful and a great reference point when I am bit confused. I am considering knitting this pattern with a 3/4 length sleeve. Can you advise how I calculate my casting on point, no. of stitches and the relevant section of the pattern to work from. I am impatiently waiting on the yarn to come to Australia!
Thank you
Julie
Hi Julie,
I’m glad you are excited about this pattern! So sorry for the lat reply! In order to give you more advice I’ll need to know which size you plan on doing. Generally, a 3/4 sleeve will start 4 1/2 – 5″ up from the wrist. Let me know!
-Adam
Hi,
Thank you for the wonderful pattern, have been looking for something like this for awhile. I have a bit of a stash, and would like to use dk wool I bought in new Zealand a few years back if possible. Could you tell me if this will Work?
Thanks,
Margaret
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for your question and your kind words! The Linen Quill used for this pattern is a light fingering weight, roughly 6-7 inches per inch. DK comes in at 5-6 inches per inch. DK is quite a bit heavier than the yarn used in this pattern. To get gauge on the suggested needles, I think that fabric would lose the drape. That said, go ahead and swatch and see if you like the fabric.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’ll be using the size 40. Will there be enough yarn to extend the torso several inches? I have a long waist.
Hi AG,
Great question! I do think that you should have enough yarn to make the torso a few inches longer. The 40, 44 and 48 inch chest all call for 4 skeins. Given that you are making the smallest size in the range, I think that you can easily make the torso at least 4 inches longer.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Is the Linen Quill easily washable?
Hi Alison,
Thank you for your question! The washing instructions for Linen Quill are to hand wash. We love using Soak wool wash. Fill a basin with luke warm water and a squeeze of Soak. Submerge the knitted item, being sure to agitate the item a minimum. Leave the item soaking for at least 15 minutes. Squeeze out the water, being sure not to wring the item and lay flat to dry on a clean towel.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi,
I’ve (finally!) joined the 3 pieces and I’m working the raglan shaping/decreases but my decreases do not look like yours (in your top photos). I only have one ‘ridge’ at the decrease ….from either the ssk or k2tog but in your photos I see 2 ridges at each decrease….maybe I’m doing my decreases wrong? It’s been a fun pattern to knit (and I have linen quill in a different color for a 2nd sweater!). Thanks for your help.
Hi Susan,
That’s great news! I’m so happy you love the pattern! Make sure that you are looking at the part of the raglan shaping section where it says “for all sizes”. This is actually where you do the raglan decrease repeat. Each decrease round should have eight decreases all around the sweater (two at each raglan line). The decreases happen on each side of the raglan line where your markers lie. Let me know if you have any questions! I hope this helped!
Happy knitting,
Adam
Hi – I just did a swatch in Linen Quill for this sweater and I’m getting 28 sts by 35 rows. Will I have to make adjustments in any of the lengths where the pattern uses rows instead of inches? And should I buy one more skein if I’m making the 44″ version because of this?
Thanks,
nancy
Hi Nancy,
Honestly that is a pretty close gauge! Congrats! Because the body portion deals in inches you will not have to worry about your row gauge there. For the yoke section you will be fine because the chest section is actually pretty roomy. Your gauge should work out!
Happy knitting,
Adam
Thanks Adam – I did do what was suggested for the gauge (the sloppy looking circular needle thingee) – I learn something new every time I do one of your projects and I love it!
Hi Nancy,
I hope it all worked out well! Good luck!
-Adam
I am finishing up my first sleeve, but I am using two circulars, rather than the DPN’s (I have been learning to knit socks on two circulars and the lady in the local yarn shop suggested this might be easier for me). I have knitted the first sleeve to 16 3/4″ from cast on edge. So…
I knit 5, then put the previous 10 stitches (meaning the 10 stitches on the other needle – the last ten of the round) onto scrap yarn, then continue with my round, leaving me with 76 stitches (I’m making the smallest size). This is a bit confusing to me, so I wanted to make sure. Thanks so much. This is my first garment ever!
Hi Tricia,
Thanks you for writing in and congrats on your first garment ever! How exciting! For the underarm stitches you knit five beyond your beginning of round marker and then slip these five plus the five stitches before the beginning of round marker on to a holder. I hope this makes sense! Best of luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I am having trouble with this part of the instructions as well. I am knitting the size 36. I knit 7 stitches after marker and picked up 7 stitches before the marker, putting 14 sts onto stitch holder. Your answer above clarified that I shouldn’t have 21 sts on the holder. However, I don’t understand how to “knit to the end” as my yarn is on stitch holder and the other end of my circular needle is on the opposite side of the stitch holder. This is my first garment with sleeves and I am very confused.
Hi Sonia,
Sorry this is confusing! I had trouble with this on my first sweater too! When you are at the beginning of round you will knit 7 and place the previous 14 (meaning the 7 you just knit and the 7 before the marker) on to a holder. Your yarn should be coming from the very last stitch you slipped on to the holder, letting you continue in the round. Once you knit 126 st. you will place 14 stitches on a holder and your working yarn will be coming from the closest stitch to your live knitting. You are actively knitting around and setting yourself up for the armholes at the same time. I hope this makes sense! Let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
I’ve read and reread the pattern. But I can’t see what I’m working for. After working the short rows portion along the bottom of the sweater, I can’t see where it explains how to count out and create the short rows on the other side. (I assume I’ll follow just as written, but I need to know where to begin.) It looks in the photos as though short rows and a curved hem are on both sides. By the way, the Linen Quill is absolutely delightful to knit with!
Hi Jennie,
Thanks for writing in and so glad you love the yarn! In short row 29 you knit the last wrap with its corresponding stitch and then knit 75 (84, 93, 103, 112), depending on the size you are making. This will take you to the correct point on the other side in which you’ll wrap and turn and start the short row shaping again from row 2. I hope this helps you out! Please write back if you have any other questions!
Best,
Adam
loving this pattern, thanks so much for creating it and for providing this way to ask questions. I have worked both sleeves, and now am doing the second set of short rows. it seems to me that the short rows of the first section do not reach all the way to both edges of the sweater. does that make sense? I am starting the second set and worry that the bottom will turn out to be lopsided. thanks for any thoughts…
Hi Katherine,
Thanks for writing in! Also, sorry this is giving you trouble! It’s very important that your short rows end at the beginning of round and the side seam in order to start the second side’s shaping. Maybe you forgot to do a short row? The math works out in the pattern, so I would count up your rows and make sure that you have the correct amount. Please let me know how this goes! And don’t hesitate to write back in with questions!
-Adam
thanks, Adam. It looks like I will probably need to start over. that’s ok, this is fun to knit. –Katherine
Hi, I’m currently knitting this project (thanks for the pattern for my first sweater!) and I’ve come up to the shaping the neck and shoulders without much trouble.
I do not understand something: The pattern says, Knit to next marker, sm, k36 (38, 41, 43, 45), place previous 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Neckline
What does ‘previous’ stitches refer to? After you knit 36, do you put the stitches before the marker on waste yarn?
Help! Thanks.
Hi Asli,
Great question! Placing the previous stitches on a stitch holder refers to the last 18 stitches that you knit. So if you are knitting the smallest size and the directions say to knit 36, you will knit 36 and then place the last 18 stitches of that 36 onto the stitch holder. Previous, in these situations will refer to the very last thing that you did and not to an earlier place in the round.
I hope that this helps and best of luck on the rest of the sweater!
Cassy
Thank you! I’m almost done. Very nice pattern, will make another one for a friend,
Finished the wonderful ‘Lightweight Raglan Pullover’, a quick, easy knit! I love it, both the yarn and color! Will make more…. Have a wonderful weekend!
Hello,
Is it possible to knit the sleeves flat instead of in the round?
Thank you!
Hi Susie,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly knit these sleeves flat instead of in the round but you may need to do a little modifcation of your own to make them work. I would just be sure to add 1 stitch on each side to accommodate sewing up the arms (i.e. instead of casting on 52, cast on 54). Always knit these added stitches before going on to knit the rest.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’ve just done the bottom scallop for the second time and have the same problem that the sides between scallops is not the same. Am I doing something wrong? When I knit back to a turn gap, I then knit the extra stitches mentioned for each row, am I missing knitting a stitch after the turn gap before doing the extra stitches? Hope this makes sense, it’s the only thing I can think of to change.
Hi Sheryl,
Thanks for writing in. The short row section of this sweater is tricky! You might have cast on the wrong number or misplaced your side seam marker. I’d double check that half your stitches are on the front and half are on the back. Also, I would pay extra attention to which step of the short row you are on as the amount you knit past the wrap and turn varies. Sometimes I make a chart in excel for these types of directions. A row counter also never hurts! I’m sorry I can’t pin point the problem but hopefully I’ve lead you in the right direction!
-Adam
I figured out the problem, I hadn’t paid attention to the end of the short row tutorial when I knit to the wrap. It’s now sorted but took me to the third time before I caught on. Thanks for your help, it’s good to read others’ queries and your response. Love the wool too. Sheryl
Ce modele est ravissant. Je souhaiterai le tricoter pour le noel de ma fille. Quelqu’un l’aurait-il traduit en français…Merci merci
Merci beaucoup!
A ce moment on n’a pas les resources de traduire nos directions mais peut-être à l’avenir!
Merci,
Adam
Hey there! I’m excited to make this sweater, however I wanted to make it in a yarn that’s 95% wool and 5% cashmere. Would you anticipate any differences in size/drape/etc. apart from the fact that linen is lighter?
Thank you!
— Sara
Hi Sara,
This all depends on the yarn you choose, how it is spun and the quality of the wool. The Linen Quill has a lot of highland wool in it, so that makes it textural and the alpaca gives it it’s softness. The linen also adds texture and a cool hand-feel. If you knit this in a wool/cashmere blend, then I would assume the sweater would be heavier. However, since this pattern uses lace weight to fingering weight yarn it would still come out pretty light and “drapy” in a wool/cashmere blend. I’d do a swatch and see if you like it!
Best,
Adam
Hi I’m currently in the midst of the project and I was wondering two things: when it is ok to switch from the DPK to the shorter circular needles and how can I keep from adding stitches on the sleeve? The pattern says knit to the last stitch does this mean to the stitch marker or the stitch right before. (sleeve)
Thanks,
Cara
Hi Cara,
Thanks for writing in! You can switch from the DPNs to the circular needle when you have enough stitches to make it around the cord. The sleeve is increased, so I’m not sure what you mean by not wanting to add stitches. Finally, when it says to knit to the last stitch, you will be knitting up to the stitch before the marker. So, for example, you will see one stitch on your left needle and then the marker. I hope this clears things up! Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Hi!
I am thoroughly enjoying knitting this pattern but just wanted to check that after joining the sleeves to the main body in a size 36, does one omit the sleeve decrease round (as for size 32)& the body decrease round (as for sizes 44 & 48) and go straight on to the raglan decrease round?
Many thanks
Kirsten
Hi Kirsten!
Thank you for the question and the kind words! After joining the sleeves to the body, for the size 36 you will knit one round (as it says “for sizes 36 and 40 only”) and then jump to the directions that say “for all sizes”. I hope this helps you out! Let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
Help! I’m starting to see the light thru the tunnel on my first pullover. I’m starting the neckband and just knit the 20 on-hold Front Neckline stitches. (size 36). But as I knit the succeeding stitches for the remaining right front stitches, there is a big gap between the sts on hold. I assume it’s because of the additional rows that were knit as the 20 sts were on hold and not worked on. How do I fix the big hole which unfortunately is right in front? Did I miss something?
Hi Sonia,
So happy you are almost there! Hope you’ll like the end result! This happens from time to time when knitting necklines or anywhere you divide and gets better with practice. For now you should just leave it and sew it up on the back of the work to close the hole when you are finished with the garment. In the future, make sure you tension the yarn tight and hand manipulate the stitches to close up the hole before you continue on in the round. This will help a bit, but for some reason if there is going to be a hole, you can’t help it! Some yarns just don’t fill in. Best of luck and congrats!
-Adam
Hello! I have been knitting hats, scarves, and blankets for almost three years now and am ready to take the plunge into sweaters! I was looking at this pattern as well as the classic hemmed crew neck. Which pattern (not necessarily out of those two if there’s a better choice for beginners!) is best for those of us embarking on their first sweater?
Thank you so much!
Hi Veronica,
How exciting! I actually suggest the Classic Hemmed Crewneck for a beginner sweater pattern because the yarn is larger and it doesn’t involve as much short row shaping. Once you finish the Crewneck, you’ll totally be ready to embark upon the Lightweight Raglan Pullover. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi- love this pattern, just what I was looking for! I wanted to make it for my husband since it doesn’t seem to have any feminine shaping and it’s just the t-shirt style that would suit him. Do you think if I just lengthen the sleeves after all the increases and lengthen the body after the bottom edge shaping I would be ok?
He’s a medium slim build, so I was going to go with finished chest of 40″ to have a loose fit. I was going to increase the length another 1.5″ total 28″ and for the sleeve I’m not sure because of the raglan shaping. I have a pattern that’s 27″ from shoulder to cuff that seems like a good length… but I don’t know how to calculate the shoulder cap length. In your professional opinion, would this work, or will it look out of proportion?
Thanks for any help!
Kate
Hi Kate,
thanks for the kind words! The best thing to do is measure your husband! First you’ll want to measure the side seam from his underarm to where you want the sweater to hit. This is the length you’ll want to go for (from the side) when knitting the sweater. As for the underarm length, you’ll want to measure an inch below his armpit to his wrist to see how long you’ll need to make the sleeves before joining to the body. However, since his shoulders are probably broader than a woman’s, you’ll probably want to make the sleeves a bit longer since his shoulders will take up more fabric in the raglan. Adding about an inch or two will keep the sleeves from riding up and looking cropped. Best of luck!
-Adam
I am about to join the sleeves to the separated body of the sweater. But I’ve got one extra stitch on the back of the body! (for size 32, I have 103 stitches on the back, 102 on the front). Not sure how that happened. But now that I’m here, what is the best way to reduce the back to 102, so I can follow all the short rows and decreases properly?
Thank you.
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing us! Do not fear — one stitch is not the end of the world! What I would do is knit 2 together right before or after your stitches on hold on the back side. This will even things out and nobody will notice a k2tog on the underarm! Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi! Would I be able to change the neckline to a vneck? If so, how should I figure it out?
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! It may well be possible to change the neckline of this sweater to a v-neck but it would require quite a bit of rewriting of the pattern. At the moment, we do not have the resources to do so. We will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Thank you again for your suggestion!
Cassy
Hi! I’m planning to knit this pullover in the size 40, and I plan to use a cotton yarn, but my skeins are smaller than the ones used in this pattern (about 170y) … To buy the right quantity and not have too much left at the end, how much yarn is needed for this size?
Thank you for your help, and this gorgeous pattern!
Hi Morgane,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! You’ll need approximately 1400 yards of lace-fingering weight yarn for the size 40. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi! At the moment I’m knittung the body of the pullover with a yarn of merino wool. I already worked the cording stitch, the short row and some rows in stockinette stitch. And I can see that the bottom edge is coiling up. What can I do against that? Thank you!
Hi Reni,
Thanks for the question. The answer is that this will all flatten out in wet blocking! The tuck stitch will stop curling very well after you block the garment. Let us know how it goes!
-Adam
Hi there, I love this sweater and want to knit it, but I have a question regarding sizing. I think I should knit a size 40, but does “40 inches around the bust” include the 1-3 inches of ease or would a 40 end up being more between 41-43″ depending on the amount of ease? Also, when I block this beautiful yarn, will there be any shrinkage? Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi Paula,
Thanks for the question! The size of the sweater, say 40″, means that the finished garment will have a chest measurement of 40″. So, if you have a 40″ chest, you should knit the 44″ size to account for the ease. Regarding shrinkage, this yarn actually expands and relaxes like most wools when wet blocked. Steam blocking will give you less expansion, but since there is linen in the yarn you’ll really want to wet block the finished garment. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi Purl Soho Folks!
I’m wondering if you could give me some guidance for making the sleeves and length of body for this pattern a little longer. I’m quite tall, about 6’0″ and would love for the sleeves to be longer to fit me! Should I simply add more rounds between each increase? Or is a wiser idea to make more stitches so that the sleeves are slightly roomier than pictured? I’ll be making the size 32, and I believe I have four skeins of Linen Quill, which I hope will be enough.
Thanks so much for your guidance! I’m looking forward to making my very first sweater!
-Micah
Hi Micah,
Thanks for writing us! If you want to make the body longer you should simply measure from an inch from your underarm to where you’d like the side seam to stop. This is the length you knit for the body portion. As for the sleeves, if you increase every 8th round 12 times and then every 7th round 4 times you will end up with 16 more rounds each sleeve. This comes to roughly 2″ more length. Do you think this enough? Let me know! Also, you should be fine with the four skeins!
-Adam
From the moment I saw this sweater I knew it would be perfect for my daughter. Lots of interesting details in this pattern and I enjoyed learning some new techniques. I was concerned about the curling at the lower edge and I shouldn’t have fretted. I wet blocked the finished sweater and it turned out beautifully. She loved it. I especially like the simple but polished details in many of your patterns and I look forward to my next project.
Diane
I just took this off the needles. Very much enjoyed this pattern. However, the hem at the bottom is curling badly. I am not very confident that blocking will help this. I followed the pattern and did the cording stitch. Is the problem related to my yarn choice? (100% merino – Ella Rae Lace Meriino)
I will block using pins to hopefully uncurl the hem, but, I am afraid that after an hour or wear, it will begin to curl which will be most unflattering. 🙁
Hi Shelly,
Thanks for writing in! Blocking will certainly help this flatten out. We use a wool/alpaca/flax blend, so we might have had an easier time flattening out the bottom compared to a merino. If you are having trouble when blocking, you can aggressively pin the curve down. Blocking is quite magical!
-Adam
Could you add any directions, or help, on making this a short sleeve sweater? I have seen one on Ravelry, but the knitter made this modification. Would just need to know how many stitches to cast on and where to go from there. Or could they be knot top down
Thanks
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for the question. I would have to know which size you plan on doing in order to help you adjust this. Thanks!
-Adam
Beautiful beautiful textural wool that I am loving the looks of while I knit this sweater!
Unfortunately I am REALLY having a difficult time understanding the raglan decrease! Somehow I have only four markers on my sweater – so if the instructions call for me to: knit one, ssk, then knit to the next marker; my next marker is on the other side of the sleeve, leaving me only one decrease at the beginning of the sleeve and one decrease on the other end. Clearly there are two lines of decreases, but I can’t, for the life of me, figure out how many stitches between the ssk and the k2tog decrease. I have read the instructions over and over again to see if I have missed placing markers somewhere, but am still puzzled.
Hi Gwen,
Thanks for writing in! You are getting it correct! You decrease on either side of each sleeve. So you will be decreasing one stitch on one side of the sleeve and one stitch on the other side of the sleeve. At this stage, you will have only 4 markers, the ones on either side of each sleeve and you will be decreasing just 4 stitches on each decrease round, one on each side of each sleeve. From what you describe, it sounds like you are doing exactly the right thing! The second line that you see will begin further into the raglan decrease when you start seeing 8 stitches decreased at the end of a line description! Continue on and everything should work out!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi!
Loving this sweater! Its only my second sweater project and I’m working hard to refine some basic skills to make this a wearable piece that I can be proud of. Cannot wait to wear it! I’m so close to the end. I am beginning to shape the neckline and shoulders…and I’m stuck at this instruction:
“with right side facing you, join yarn to Right Front stitches…”
I have placed my neckline stitches on a scrap piece of yarn, knitted to the end of that round and cut my yarn as instructed. Then I slipped my markers and stitches to the front of the neckline (where I have held stitches). I am about to work my short rows…but how do I “join yarn to Right Front stitches?” Normally there is a handy you tube tutorial that can clarify issues and skills as I knit but I am perplexed just how and where to “join” my yarn. Also, what happens with the cut yarn I left behind before I slipped to the front neckline? I am assuming I am leaving these held stitches for the time being?
I read through all previous comments and questions to make sure the answer wasn’t already there for me but I don’t seem to see other knitters with this issue. All the knitters who have arrived at the top portion seem to have questions about the raglan shaping or had no trouble with this. What am I missing?
So confused.
Megan
Hi Megan,
Thanks for writing in and sorry you are having trouble with this pattern. You are not going to like how easy this sounds but “join yarn” literally means to pick up a fresh end of yarn and start knitting with it. When you slipped the stitches from the left needle to the right you changed your position in the work and had to cut the working yarn. Now you’ll need to join a new piece of yarn to knit the neckline. Since you’ll be working the neckline in short rows, you will now treat the stitches to the right and left of the held stitches as the end and beginning of the work. Hope this helps a bit!
-Adam
I am at the same spot as the precious writer. I’m confused because after slipping all the stitches before starting the short rows I ended up on the left front edge of the front neckline and the pattern says with right side facing join yarn to the right front stitches. But my needles are on the left front .
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for the question! Right front in this case means “wearer’s right front”. So, when you are looking at your knitting with the right side facing you, the stitches on your left needle are the wearer’s right front. It’s from here where you start your short rows. I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Adam
I am making the sweater without the short rows. It will be straight across at the bottom. How do I shape the neckline and shoulders without the short rows? (I have not done short rows before and found it too difficult with this thin yarn – next project I will get to that). Thanks!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for the question. Unfortunately we cannot customize the neckline to not have short rows. That’s how the pattern is written. My suggestion would be to put your front neck stitches on hold and work the neck flat with decreases. This way, however, does not account for back neck shaping. Best of luck and let us know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I have 10 5 gram skeins of merino natural thorobred. Is this suitable for this pattern ((lightweight raglan pullover))?
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for the question. Unfortunately 10 five gram skeins will not be enough for this sweater. You’ll need around 300 grams of fingering weight yarn for the smallest size. Thanks again!
-Adam
I started to make the body of the sweater and am ready to start the short rows. I thought I had 280 sts on the needle but realize I have only 270. I don’t think it will matter in the fit, but wonder about the directions for the short rows, how will this impact the shaping? Do I need to make an adjustment, can I follow the directions as written, or do I need to rip?
Thanks!
Laurie
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for writing in. Since the short row directions have you knit to a certain amount before the end of the row you can follow them without adjusting the pattern. Since I don’t know where you have lost stitches you should double check that your neckline is centered. I’d also double count your front, back and sleeve stitches to see where you made the mistake. If the mistake is not so far from where you are now, then I would rip back to make sure the shape isn’t affected. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Hi, I absolutely love this yarn and pattern! I have just finished the sleeves and now I’m working the bottom edge. I have just started the short rows (my first time doing short rows, thank you for the wonderful tutorial). My question is on short row 3, I’m supossed to knit to wrapped stitch. Do I knit to the wrapped stitch from short row 2 or short row 1? Thank you so much for any help! This is my second sweater ever and I’m so excited for it!
-Ann
Hi Ann,
Thanks for the lovely compliment! On short row three you’ll knit to the wrap from short row one, pick up that wrap and knit however many beyond that based on the size you are following. All odd row short rows correspond to each other and the same for even ones. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Adam
I just got to “shape neckline + shoulders”. My sleeve stitch count is 20 on each side somehow, but my body is the correct 56 on each. I’m trying to decide if I should attempt to re-do the math/pattern for my 20 sleeve stitches (though I’m not sure that this is possible), end it where it is and ditch shaping the neckline, or doing a few more rows and adding those four stitches back to the sleeves. What suggestions do you have that do not involve unknitting? This pattern has given me a lot of trouble so I cannot possibly go through that. Thank you! Chris.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for writing in! I think that you should continue with the neck shaping even though you don’t have the correct amount of sleeve stitches. While shaping the neck you’ll simultaneously decrease at the raglan marks. The final short row for the neck leaves you with 12 stitches at each sleeve. My advice is to shape the neck as the pattern states until you have 12 stitches in both sleeve sections. From there you’ll only decrease outside the sleeve sections where necessary. This is the simplest way to continue the pattern without ripping out.
All the best,
Adam
I am having a very hard time with cording on the sleeve and have torn out my knitting 4 times. Is there a secret or trick that will help me count 4 down to pick up the stitch? Thanks
Hi Susan,
Thanks for the question. Unfortunately there is no trick to making the cording stitch. You just have to be very careful when picking up your stitches. Something that you can do is use a contrast color when starting the cording section. This helps because you can see exactly where to pick up. It also makes all the edges look like piping, which I think is a sharp look. Best of luck and keep trying!
-Adam
Thanks, Adam! I used a contrasting color ( plus the main color) on the fourth row from the bottom, and that made it easier to find and pick up the stitch. Then I just pulled out the contrasting color. Great suggestion!
Glad it helped!! 😀
Hi purl team, thank you very much for your lovely pattern. this is my first purl pattern and I’m going to do many others. at the moment I’m stuck in the shape neckline and shoulder part. I knitted rows 3 and 4, leaving 5 stiches at the end of each one, no prob ; but on row 5, it’s written to leave 8 stiches. my question is : do you mean the 5 first and 8 more, i-e 13 st. or is it 8 including the 5 first ? does it make any sens.
I live in Brittany, west part of France and I used a yarn called Alpaga from la Droguerie.
thank you for your answer
Florence
Hi Florence,
Thanks for writing us! I hope you’ve enjoyed the pattern so far. In row 5 you’ll knit to 8 stitches before the end of the row. This includes the 5 previous stitches plus 3 more. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Thank you very much
Will this still drape nicely if knit with your line weight yarn? I got line weight because it’s softer, but realized that it won’t have quite the same drape as the linen quill blend!
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for the question. The Line Weight won’t have the same drape but it won’t be stiff since the gauge is pretty loose for this sweater. I think you’ll be fine! Plus, the sweater will be warmer.
All the best,
Adam
Thank you very much !
Hi !
When it says “work wrapped stitch with its wrap” does it means I need to knit 2 (the wrap stitch before the hole and the one after to close the gap that I see ??)
thanks !
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! When you are coming back across where you have wrapped and turned, it is time to knit wrap stitch together with wrapped stitch. To do this, you will pick up the wrap with the right needle from front to back and then insert the right needle into the stitch that is wrapped and knit the wrap and the stitch together. For a photo tutorial, you can check out of short row tutorial page here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/short-rows/
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi, I need help with recalculation!
The sleeves turned out well, but when I started the body it was too large so I reduced the number of stitches. All went well until I approached the number of stitches for shaping the neckline and shoulders. I arrived at the needed number of stitches for front and back way ahead of the sleeve stitches. Obviously I had forgotten that the body stitch adjustment was in conflict with the sleeve stitches as per pattern instructions.
My thought was to rip out back to the beginning of the raglan and perhaps do the decrease every other row for the sleeves and every fourth row include the decrease for the front and back. I don’t know how this would work in terms of the raglan shaping and decided to ask for support in case there are better alternatives to make this join work.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for writing in. Unfortunately we cannot customize patterns over the comments section but I can certainly guide you. If you cast on a certain amount, you’ll want to calculate the percentage greater or fewer stitches you have as compared to the original pattern. This percentage will act as a guide for how many stitches you leave for the sleeves, neckline, etc. Hope this helps!
-Adam
I am knitting this Purl Soho pattern with Linen Quill yarn.
It is going well but I would like to make the neckline a little lower than it appears in the model’s photo. (I am short and so is my neck, so highish necklines often aren’t flattering to me though boat neck is fine if not too high.)
I am knitting the size 36, and have decreased down to 64 sts front and back and feel I definitely don’t want to do the 8 more rows to get to 56 sts front and back as per pattern.
(I probably would have stopped at 66 sts front & back but though having 64 sts which matches one of the pattern sizes might be easier.)
I’d greatly appreciate it if you could give any advice on best way to approach a slightly lower neckline.
Even though I’m knitting size 36, would it work to follow the decrease numbers for the largest size, size 48 as it begins the neckline at 64 sts – or would neckline be too… big? And if I start the neckline 8-10 rows early, should I add some extra non-decrease rows in, in between the short row decreases in the 13-row section ‘Shape Neckline + Shoulders’.
I’ve knitted other cardigans and pullovers, but this is my first pullover in the round and first with any short-row shaping, apart from the usual couple of short-rows at the shoulders, so I’m not experienced on how to vary the neck amongst the short rows.
One other thing.
I must have decreased slightly incorrectly for the sleeves, because although I have 64 sts front and back, I have 32 sts for each sleeve, whereas the size 48 has 26 at this point. (I should have counted more carefully.) Would you recommend undoing back so I can get closer to 24/26 sts for each sleeve before doing whatever I need to for the neckline?
Many thanks in advance for any advice you might have.
Hi Janet,
Thanks for the question! Changing a neckline is a big undertaking as it might require you knitting and ripping a lot before you perfect it. That being said, it is difficult for me to give you a concrete answer over the comments section on how to execute this. However, I can guide you on how you might go about this. I’d start the neckline 10 rounds earlier and put 10 less stitches total on hold for the front neckline. You’ll wr-t on your first two short rows as in short row 1 and then for the subsequent 8 short rows you’ll wr-t the stitch before your previous wrap. Once you knit your 10 rows of wr-t you should start to follow the original neckline. This is just a suggestion and might not work out though! Necklines are very tricky to develop without knitting a sample first. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Can you please recommend a cast-on that helps reduce the rolling of the edge?
Thanks!
Hi Rochelle,
Thanks for writing us. We used the long tail cast on for this project and after blocking the edge flattened out. If you’re wary about this you can try blocking a small swatch using the same yarn and the cording stitch. Good luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Hi Purl Team! I love this sweater and would love to finally make something for myself but I would need to size this up and need some advice.
I read through the pattern for the body and it looks like it’s pretty straightforward that I would simply repeat the pattern for a longer length, correct?
However, the size 48 I would need to size up to allow for more space in the chest area – my eternal struggle with sweater patterns and why I almost never pick up the needles for sweaters. Any advice on how to approach this? I can follow patterns but my skills are not sophisticated enough to figure this out on my own.
Many thanks!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for the question! As for adjusting the length of the body, you will just knit until you’re satisfied with the length. This is the easy adjustment! The adjustment for the chest is trickier. How many inches in circumference are you thinking of knitting? Let us know!
-Adam
Is there a .pdf of this I can download?
Thanks!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly can download our patterns as PDFs! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love this yarn and the look of this sweater and I want to make it. I’ve read through the pattern and, although it includes directions that are unfamiliar to me, I think I can figure them out. The big sticking point for me is the use of dpns: I just can’t manage them! So my question for you is, are there alternative methods I can use when dpns are called for? Thanks very much for any encouragement you can give me.
Hi Norma,
Thanks for writing in! Glad you’re thinking of attacking this pattern! I suggest using the magic loop method for parts of the pattern that require DPNs. You can look up a tutorial for this technique on YouTube. There are lots of helpful videos. Thanks!
-Adam
Love this pattern but wish there was an option to save digitally. I have been converting all the patterns I can to digital, especially individual patterns like this.
Hi Jill,
Thanks for writing us! You can save as a PDF if you click the print icon on the right-hand side of your screen. A popup window will appear and on the top bar you can click the PDF option.
All the best,
Adam
is this sweater unisex. I would like to knit this sweater for a man. Chest size 44-46? more towards a 46 chest
Chris
Hi Christopher,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, this sweater can be considered unisex because there is no bust shaping. As for the chest size, you can choose to knit the 44″ or 48″ size, as there is no option for a 46″ size. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Do you have a suggestion for a Purl Soho yarn other than Linen Quill. I’d like cotton if possible. Thank you!
Hi Teri,
Thanks so much for writing us! Unfortunately we don’t carry a Purl Soho yarn in a cotton thin enough for this pattern. I suggest trying the Habu Bamboo if you are looking for a plant fiber substitute for this pattern.
All the best,
Adam
Hello! I’m almost ready to venture into making my first sweater, and have decided that this pattern will be my guide! I love it! Can this sweater be made using Cotton Pure instead of Linen Quill? It looks doable, but a professional opinion is always appreciated. Thank you!
Hi Morgan,
Thanks for writing in! That’s so exciting that you are choosing this pattern as your first sweater! Unfortunately Cotton Pure and Linen Quill don’t have the same gauge. This means you can’t use the cotton as a substitute unless you want to change the pattern. For your first sweater I suggest you use the yarn suggested and that you do your gauge swatch in the round to ensure everything goes smoothly.
All the best,
Adam
Ok, cool. Thank you! Last question- I’m wanting to make the size 40, and for shaping the raglan, the direction under sizes 36 and 40 is to knit one round. The other sizes have directions for body decreasing, but 36 and 40 don’t. What are the instructions for those two sizes? Thanks so much!
Hi Morgan,
Thanks for writing back! At the raglan shaping section you’ll follow directions for your size and then go to the section “all sizes” for further instructions on how to shape the raglan. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Can you explain where you’re losing stitches when you go from setting up the edge of the sweater body with 224 stitches to when you finish the edge shaping and end up with 204 stitches? So its even, I’m assuming you lose 10 stitches on each side (front and back) but where are you losing them? I’m asking so I can figure out how I lost 16 on the first side and 35 on the second :`(
Hi Elisabeth,
Thanks for the question! This portion of the pattern is in the “separate for front and back” section. In this part you are putting 10 stitches each side on scrap yarn or stitch holders. These will mark your underarms and will be grafted with kitchener stitch at the very end. Hope this clears everything up!
-Adam
Actually Adam, I just realized what I did. I read knit the stitch and wrap together as knit the two stitches together so I’ve been decreasing the whole time 🙁
Hello I am a beginner knitter and I would love to knit this sweater. Do you think a beginner would be able to knit this? What degree of difficulty do you think this is and why? It looks pretty straight forward to me but that does not mean anything lol until I start.
Thank you,
Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! This lovely sweater can give a beginner knitter a good challenge while being achievable. I would say that the most challenging portion of this pattern could be the cording stitch. It can be a bit tricky but with a little practice, you can master it. I would suggest reading through the whole pattern and make sure that you are comfortable with the techniques used. The comments section can also be a great resource to answer questions that you may have that other knitters have already asked! I would then knit a few swatches and if you are feeling confident, go for it! We are always here to help out!
Best,
Cassy
Beautiful pattern, and I would like to knit this one, but would definitely want to modify the front neckline to be much lower. I have already knitted too many sweaters that I either given away or don’t wear because of the high neckline.
Any suggestion of how to go about this modification?
Thanks so much for all your wonderful, creative and stylish designs, penny
Hi Penny,
Thank you for writing in. Changing the neckline on this is a bit tricky and you might have to try a few times before you get it. I suggest you put your front neck stitches on hold earlier and short row the neckline further than the original pattern. At the same time you’ll be decreasing at the raglan points as well. Best of luck and happy knitting!
Adam
Ideally with warm weather coming I’d like to make it in a blend with more linen content. I’m sensitive to alpaca so Quill is not an option for me. Found the print icon which produces a pdf so all is well. Still would love to see a linen blend yarn in a lighter weight – sport or fingering. This is a lovely design.
Hello Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! Happy to hear you found the PDF option. I think the best substitute with a higher linen content would be Kalinka 21. It is 55 percent linen and 44 percent wool.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Unfortunately I am traveling and without my “research tools”?I started the body of the sweater and am at the shapping body with short rows. I understand basically how to turn the short rows ..your instructions are great as is your tutorial but I don’t understand how the short rows move to shape on the other side of the sweater I am through rows 6-8
Btw I guess you can tell I’m new to this is my first really big sweater?
Thanks for any assistance
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! Short row 29 will get you to the other side of your short row section. It reads as follows:
Short Row 29: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k75 (84, 93, 103, 112), wrp-t.
The k75 (84, 93, 103, 112) after working the wrap on the short row side you’ve been knitting will get you to the other side of the garment, close to the beginning of round marker. After short row 29 you’ll repeat short rows 2-28 again. Hope this makes sense!
-Adam
Hello!
How many rows do you knit on the sleeve before you start casting on? On the pattern it just says: “Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 1 inch from cast-on edge.”
Stupidly, I assumed that meant one inch from the desired end of armpit to cuff so I’ve knit 15 3/4 inches and now realize my mistake!
Thanks for you help!
Gertrude
Hi Gertrude,
Thanks for writing in. Unfortunately I don’t quite understand your question. If you’ve already started knitting, then you’ve definite cast on. Do you mean to ask when you increase? Or the cording stitch? Let me know!
-Adam
I am a beginner knittting this sweater and I have certainly bit off more than I can do! Thankfully I have friends that knit that can help me, but the are not available right now and I am having problems with the following instruction:
FOR ALL SIZES:
Raglan Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Raglan Decrease Round every round 0 (0, 2, 4, 6) more times, then every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) more times. [156 (160, 168, 176, 180) stitches: 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) stitches for each Front and Back, 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
I am knitting a size 40. By my count after I do the “Raglan Decrease Round” I should have 408 Stitches. If I do the math correctly for the next instruction, “repeat the Raglan Decrease Round 2 more times”, that brings me to 400. Then for every other round of 28 rows, that would decrease only 14 rows since it is every other row, amounting to only 56 decreases. This leaves me with 344 stitches, not 168.
I am hoping I am explaining this clearly and you can help.
Thank you, Zoë
HI Zoe,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I see where the confusion may be occurring! When the pattern says to repeat the decrease round “every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) more times,” you will be knitting the decrease row 28 more times for your size but knitting a row in between each decrease. That is to say that you repeat the decrease round 28 more times as noted but you will also be knitting a straight round between each decrease round. This should get you to the correct number of stitches!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Would the new Purl Cattail Silk yarn work with this pattern? Thx!
Hello Lisa,
Thanks for writing in. This sweater would be beautiful in the Cattail Silk! I would still knit a gauge swatch before jumping in, but I say go for it.
-Marilla
Hello! Is there a video clip of the I cord stitch that I can watch? Just want to make sure I am doing it correctly.
Hi Allison,
Thanks for writing in! We do not have a video for the cording stitch but we will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
Hi Purl Soho,
I love knitting w linen quill but wld prefer a yarn w more variation in color for this sweater. Wld koigu kpppm work for this pattern?
If yes, for a size L (40), wld 9 skeins cover it? ( linen quill 439 yds, kpppm 175).
If kpppm is not such a great idea, do you have any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Hello,
I’m happy to hear you enjoy Linen Quill as much as we do. You can certainly make this sweater in Koigu kpppm, though I would get 10 skeins for size L(40). Good luck with your project and let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I have started back in knitting after many years. I have made sweaters before but short rows are new to me. I have started this part of the sweater and have ripped my work out three times so far. I cant seem to find my wrapped stritches when I make them. Why are we doing the short rows ie. what are we forming ( ie normally they are in the shoulders etc.) Is this a “dart in the side of the sweater. Maybe if I understand what I am forming this would help too. I know Im wrapping correctly, I have looked at your instructions and watched videos on technique. I just cant seem to find the wrapped stitches.
Thanks!
Hi Jennifer,
So sorry you are having problems with this part of the pattern. The short rows at the bottom are for curving the hem and the short rows around the neck are for forming the neckline. The neckline short rows are used instead of decreasing and we use this method because it’s easier to incorporate the cording stitch. If you are having trouble detecting the wraps, you can set a marker each time you wrap and turn so you’ll know exactly where it is. Hope this helps!
Adam
Hi!
Im about 10 inches up to body, and am loving the pattern, however when I compare my knitting with the photos above I have a lot more curling at the bottom cord than is shown here.
Has the partially complete body in the photos already been blocked?
Should I be measuring the length of the body taking into account the curl? Or should I be measuring it flattened out?
Thanks!
Hi Samantha,
Not to worry, when working in stockinnette stitch it does tend to curl at the bottom due to the knit stitches being all on one side, this will diminish greatly as soon as it is blocked. When you measure the length of the body you just want to flatten out the curled edge to get the correct measurement.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Hi,
First sweater I have knitted in a long time so I am very rusty.
In the directions, the Raglan decrease before the neck and shoulder every other round 27 times for the size I am making. Does that mean counting all the rows or just the decrease rows 27 times.
Thanks
Jen
Hello Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in!
When the pattern says to repeat the decrease round “every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) more times,” you will be knitting the decrease row 27 more times for your size but knitting a row in between each decrease. That is to say that you repeat the decrease round 27 more times as noted but you will also be knitting a straight round between each decrease round.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Hi! I’m working on this sweater with the yarn as shown. I’ve decided not to do the cording stitch at all. Is there any reason to use double pointed needles for the sleeves? Couldn’t I use the 16″ circulars? Thanks!
Hi Natasha,
Thanks for writing in! Most of the arm is smaller than 16 inches in circumference which will necessitate the use double pointed needles to achieve the corrected finished measurements. You could also try the magic loop method. We do not have a tutorial for it but there are many fine videos on YouTube if you are averse to using DPNs.
Best,
Cassy
I’m confused by this. It looks like two decreases rather than four. Can you explain in more details please?
“Sleeve Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]”
Thanks!!
Hello Laela,
Thanks for writing in! or this decrease round you will decrease a total of four times. You will knit the sequence within brackets two times which will complete one round. “[K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm] 2 times.” The two decrease stitches are ssk and k2tog. Since you will be doing each of these stitches twice- you will decrease a total of four stitches.
Let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi,
I am at the point of shape neckline + Shoulders. Does “set up round” mean anything special? I have started knitting, place the required stitches on the stitch holder and went to continue knitting but this causes all the stitches on the holder to loop when i continue knitting. It looks wrong and not like the picture. Something is not quite right.
Thanks
Jen
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! The set-up row at the Shape Neckline and Shoulders is the round where you place stitches on holders for the underarms and it sets you up to complete the raglan decreases for the neckline. After this round, you will cut your yarn and then rearrange the stitches on your needles as described. This should prevent the stitches on the holder from looping. IF you are still having difficulties pleas do let us know.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m also having a problem with this part of the pattern. I have the accurate number of stitches for size 40. The directions say, “Slip the following markers and stitches. . . :slip end of round marker, slip 24 Left Sleeve stitches”. What do I do with the 60 stitches before the left sleeve? Slip them as well?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in and apologies for the delayed response! At this point in the project, you will have just worked the set-up row. Once that row is complete you will have 138 (140, 146, 152, 154) stitches: 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) stitches for each Left and Right Front, 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) stitches for Back, 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve. When you begin the next row, your beginning of round marker is between the back stitches and the left sleeve stitches. You will then slip the end of round marker, the left sleeve stitches, a marker and the 18 left front stitches. You will now be at the front stitches that are on hold; the back 60 stitches having been worked in the set up round.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
it looks superb……..like it very much
If I’m not doing the cording stitch on the sleeves, can I use circular needles?
Hello Natasha,
Thanks for writing in – great question! The reason the sleeves are knit on double points it because of the circumference of the sleeves not because of the cording stitch so I would still suggest using double pointed needles for the sleeves.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Is it possible to do the sleeves simultaneously with magic loop?
Hello Emma,
Thanks for writing in. I don’t see why not – go for it!
-Marilla
Would it be possible to knit this pattern using German short rows instead of the wrap and turn method that is used in this pattern?
Hi Donna,
German short rows are a lovely substitute for the wrap and turn method. I think that as long as you are confident in that method you should give it a go!
Happy knitting!
Carly
I want to knit this in the Quill for my daughter-in-law. She measures 36″ bust. With the 1-4 positive ease what size should I knit?
Hi Patti,
For this pullover to fit the actual chest circumference you would want to knit for the size 40.
Have a great day,
Melissa
Laura how do i know what size of circular needle set to Buy?
Helen
Hello Helen,
Thank you for reaching out! The suggested needles for this project are US 4, 32 to 40-inch circular needles, depending on sweater size ( This pair is for the body of the sweater)
US 4, 16-inch circular needles (This pair is for the neck and tops of the sleeves) and a set of US 4, double pointed needles (for the sleeves).
I hope this clears things up!
-Marilla
Hi! Am contemplating this for my very first sweater (been knitting for years but am a very insecure knitter and scared of a full sweater!). I think I would knit a size 36 or 40. Would 4 skeins of the linen quill have enough yarn to do the recommended swatches as well (a circular one and a flat one)? Thanks!
Hello Kyla,
Thanks for writing in! I think this is a great first sweater and you will have plenty of yarn for a couple of swatches. Don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any further questions. I have total confidence in your knitting abilities!
Warmly,
Marilla
I would like to try knitting this sweater for my son who wears 2T size clothes. Do you have measurements for this pattern in a toddler size?
Hi Lily,
Thanks for writing in! At present we do not have smaller sizes for this sweater but I will certainly communicate your wish to our design team.
Best,
Cassy
Hi, I was just wondering if you guys had the total yardage for each size?
Hi Taylor,
Thank you for writing in! We are happy to provide you with the yardage amounts. They are: 1070 (1210, 1365, 1555, 1740) yards.
Best,
Cassy
I’m in the final stages of this pattern, knitting a size 48, and I think I might run out of yarn before completing. I am about to begin the shape neckline and shoulders step and have ball of yarn roughly the size of a large apple left! I’m sure you can’t answer this for certain, but is there a lot of variation in the linen quill dye batches? I am knitting in the gray denim color. I may need to order an additional skein :/
Hello Kate,
Thanks for writing in! Have you completed the arms already? From my experience Linen Quill has been pretty consistent with its yardage. From what you have said I would guess that you will have enough yarn to complete this sweater, however if you are concerned you can always get an extra skein and return it for store credit within six months unwound.
I hope this is helpful and good luck!
-Marilla
I have completed the arms. I’m just about to start the short row process at the top of the sweater. I’ll keep on, and thanks for your response!
Kate
Hello,
I’m finishing off the first sleeve and I’m a bit confused with this portion, “K7, place previous 14 stitches on stitch holder, removing end of round marker”… Are the new K7 stitches part of the “previous 14” or are you placing 14 stitches from the last round?
Appreciate the help!
Jenny
Hello Jenny,
Thanks for writing us! It includes the 7 stitches you just knit. You will place the previous 14 stitches onto a stitch maker from where you are in the row when the instructions are given.
I hope this makes sense and please let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Please disregard, I think, I’ve figured it out. I hadn’t counted in the wrapped stitches. Blush! – and sorry for any inconvenience.
Hello Helle,
Happy to hear it! Let us know if you have any further questions.
-Marilla
Hi,
Can you help me with the short rows please. Row 28 of the short rows creates a wrapped stitch. Row 29 and the last short row knit through the row 27 wrapped stitches. Normally the purl side short rows (as row 28 is) would have the wrapped stitch purled out in the following purl row, but there is no following purl row as the pattern goes on to knit in the round. I’m left with two purl side wrapped stitches and I’m not sure how to knit through them. Can you please advise.
Thanks,
Clare
Hello Clare,
On row 28 of short rows you are on the purl side, So after doing 1 wrap and turn as the directions say you will be on the right side with only 1 wrapped stitch to work. I’m wondering if there was an accidental extra wrap you made? Unless the issue is at the wrap and turn at the end of row 29 of your short rows. This brings you back to row 2 which doesn’t tell you to pick up that wrapped stitch on the purl side in the pattern. That will leave a wrap that I would recommend picking up on the purl side as you were doing before.
Please keep me posted about your problem! Has it been worked out?
Best,
Carly
Hi- I noticed on Ravelry it mentions there is errata for this pattern but the link to it is broken. Does this page incorporate that errata??
Hi Michele,
Thanks for writing in! We have updated the pattern from the original posting but all of the errata has been incorporated into the pattern on the pattern page above. The Ravelry link has been corrected as well.
Best,
Cassy
Hi! I love this pattern and I am looking to tackle it as my first sweater! I am wondering about lengthening the arms and body of the sweater? I am already knitting the largest size, but my underarm to cuff is 20″ at a minimum and my underarm to hem is 14″. Thanks!!
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly add length. For the body, you can add length in the Continue Body section. For the arms, I would suggest adding additional rounds between the increases.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Please advise how I can print this pattern so it’s easy to read. I have printed it but print is very light
Hi Debby,
Thanks for writing in! We do have a print function that should print with standard dark letters. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
Best,
Cassy
Any thoughts on making this a men’s sweater? I was thinking of just making the hem straight rather than shaped… this is probably honestly more of an opinion question 🙂 but how feminine is the neckline? Anyone’s thoughts are welcome! I am having a hard time finding a super basic and lightweight men’s sweater!
Hello Jocelyne,
I think this is a fantastic idea! In my opinion, I do not find this neckline particularly gendered. Let us know how it turns out.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
A friend sent me a link to this pattern. I am unable to get the exact yarn where I live, but I found a yarn that is 75% superwash wool and 25% polymide that has the same gauge. I’ve made the two sleeves and they turned out great and I just finished the short rows on both sides. However, it looks like the bottom wants to curl up over the cording stitch on the body. It doesn’t do it on the sleeves. I can’t tell what it will do when it is not all scrunched up on the circular needles. Does it normally look like it is curling too much? If not, is there anything I can do to keep it from curling up? I don’t want to continue if it is not going to lay flat and show the cording stitch. Do you have any ideas for me?
Hi Shari,
Thanks for writing in! There will be a bit more of a tendency to curve up on the bottom of the sweater due to the short rows. For the version that we knit using Linen Quill, blocking eliminated any residual curling. If you are concerned with the curling, I would suggest wet blocking the work in progress while still on the needles and see if that helps. To do so, fill a basin with warm water submerge the item in the water and leave for at least 15 minutes. Remove the item and gently squeeze out the water, being careful not to wring it. Lay it out on a dry towel, using your hands to push it into the desired finished shape and leave to dry. If there is still significant curling, it could be that you are pulling a touch too tight when wrapping and turning on the short rows and a bit less tension should do the trick!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi
Love the sweater bought lots of Koigu pppm from purl. Do u think I can use it for sweater? Thanks
Hi Lucille,
Thanks for writing in! The Koigu KPPPM is a touch thicker than the Linen Quill that we use here but I think that it could work. I would suggest knitting up a gauge swatch to be sure that you can get gauge and get a fabric that you like. If you like the fabric with the correct gauge, you will be all set!
Best,
Cassy
I would like to make this sweater longer and the neckline a little higher. Is this easy to do and how would I do it?
Thanks,
Fran
Hi Fran,
Thanks for writing in! Lengthening this sweater is quite easy. You will just add some length after you have finished the short rows on the body. I would suggest measuring a sweater that you like the length of and base the amount you lengthen on that. Raising the neckline is quite a bit more complicated and would involve a reworking of that pattern. While you could add rows before knitting the cording stitch, this will change the look of the sweater. You may need to try a variety of options and see what works for you.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Short rows are a bear! I didn’t know how to do them on your jacket pattern and repeated watching of the video missed a point: how and when do you join the short row portion to the rest of the sleeve and body of sweater? That is, when does one just knit across the whole row so you don’t have 3 separate sections???
I don’t think sweaters advertised for beginners should have short rows in the patterns. But how does one join short rows to the rest???
Thank you! If your patterns weren’t so lovely, I wouldn’t care!
Hello Eileen,
Thank you for writing in! I’m sorry to hear you are having such a frustrating experience. The short rows in this sweater only appear at the bottom of the sweater to create the slopped edge. This means that the majority of this sweater’s body is knit in stockinette stitch. The three sections are knit separately so that once you have knit your two sleeves and the body of the sweater you will connect these three sections in the Yoke section of the pattern.
I hope this clears things up and if you have any more questions please let me know!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi,
I was just about to order the yarn for this when I got distracted by the tiny stripes vest. Could I knit this raglan pullover in stripes??
And if so, would I need to order extra skeins for the 2nd size up? Could I use linen quill for both colours?
(can’t wait to start either plain or striped!!)
Hi Alison,
Thank you for your kind words! The Tiny Stripes Vest is quite fetching! The difficulty in adding stripes to this sweater is that there are a good amount of short rows and creating stripes in short rows can be very challenging if not impossible (I haven’t been able how to work it out so that they will match or how to do it without a good amount of floats on the back). If you do want to attempt it in the sections without short rows (the sleeves and body above the bottom and below the short rows), I would suggest getting an additional skein of the contrast color.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I would love to knit this sweater but am leery of the wool and alpaca in the Linen Quill yarn. I have sensitive skin and am wondering if this a very scratchy yarn? Thanks for any feedback!
Hi Monica,
Great question! Feel of yarn is such a personal issue. For me, I find this yarn quite nice especially after a few hand washes. My sweater fabric is quite lovely and I have no problem with it next to my skin despite me having a bit of a sensitivity to alpaca. That said, your impressions may vary. I would suggest swatching with a single skein of Linen Quill and seeing how you like the fabric. Additionally, if you are ever in New York, you can come in a feel the sweater and our other projects.
Best,
Cassy
Hi,
I’m wondering what the size equivalents are for the measurements. I usually wear a small even though I have a larger chest. Would the 32 be equivalent to XS, 36 S, etc.? I don’t want to end up with a too baggy sweater!
Thank you,
Jenna
Hi Jenna,
Thanks for writing in! Our sizes for this sweater are based on chest measurements. That is to say the measurement of the fullest part of your chest plus 1-4 inches. SO if your chest measurement is 39, you would add 1-4 inches (40-43 inches) and select the size 40. As far as the equivalent to sizes like XS-XL, this is a bit difficult as each clothing brand uses a different scale. We like using the actual measurements as it provides a more accurate idea of what size you should knit.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello,
I am having the same problem…. twice. I did the firt 29 rows, and I end up with 178 stiches… for the second bottom edge. What haven’t I understood in short row making. The first side looks fine to me.
Thanks for your help,
Diane
I started all over again, with success this time, but not knowing what I had done wrong. I suggest putting a second marker to check the stitch count.
Great pattern!
Diane
Hi Diane,
I am glad to hear that you have things working well right now! I, myself, use lots of stitch markers in my projects to make things more evident ans easier for me!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
You substituted Linen Quill for Cattail Silk. What about Line Weight? Could Line Weight be substituted for this sweater? If not please suggest a few patterns using Line Weight as I purchased 7 skeins already and don’t remember what I had planned to make. I would really love to make this sweater and look forward to your reply. Thank you.
Mae
Hello Mae,
Yes you could use the line weight that you have for this sweater, it would work well. Other patterns that we have where you can use line weight are the Striped Spring Shirt, the bobble yoke sweater, and the circular yoke summer shirt.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
JUST finished knitting this sweater and it turned out lovely! This was my first ever sweater and it proved to be a bit of a challenge (but in a good way, kept me interested in the project), would definitely recommend to other first time sweater knitters if you’re up for a challenge and want to learn some new skills. Thank you for a great pattern.
Hello Stephanie,
Congratulations on finishing your first sweater! I’m so happy to hear it was a positive experience.
Happy Knitting,
Marilla
Short row question. If I just want to replicate the short row directions from the front to the back, at what stitch count for “row 1-Knit 112, wrap and turn” do I start from the side seam? I am not sure I have the wraps in exactly the right place and am concerned that my front and back hem will not match and the “side seams” will be off. I don’t want to use that wrap as noted in row 29 as my starting point for the back hem shaping.
Hello Mary,
Thanks for writing in! If you are making the largest size and cast on a total of 336 stitches you will knit 280 stitches before beginning your short rows if you would like them to be in the back rather than the front. I hope this clears things up. Please let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, I am loving knitting this jumper, I live in South Africa and am not able to get linen quill, but am doing it in sock yarn. I have done the cording on the body and am busy with short rows and would like to know what happens to the very last wrapped stitch before I start with the straight stockinette stitch.
Hello Valerie,
Thank you for your question! After you have repeated rows Rows 2 through 28 once more you will knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round. I hope this clears things up for you!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Could I use your Understory yarn to make this sweater?
Thank you for your time and help.
Sheila
Hi Shelia,
Thanks for writing in! Understory is quite a bit heavier than Linen Quill and thus would not work well as a substitution here. If you would like to use an alternate yarn for this lovely sweater, I would suggest looking for a yarn that has a gauge of roughly 7 stitches per inch.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m about to start the “Lightweight Pullover” using Cattail Silk. Any problem with using the German Short Row method instead of traditional w&t? Is there anything I should be aware of if I substitute the traditional for the German SR? Thank you.
Oh!! I didn’t state my question clearly! Should I be mindful of anything done differently if I use the German Short Row method instead of the traditional w&t?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! To be honest, I am not an expert in German short rows. From my understanding, German short rows use additional stitches and were you to use them, you would need to rework stitch counts. Form my understanding, with German short rows, you knit an additional stitch before turning your work. Our patterns are written using traditional short rows, so if you wand to use German short rows, you will need to alter the pattern a bit to accommodate them! I’d suggest checking out some resources on line on how to subsitute German short rows for traditional short rows!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, I’m a beginner knitter. Can you please help me figure out how to lengthen the sleeves? From my shoulder I’d like it to be 24.5″.
Hello Shannon,
Thank you for reaching out! This should be pretty simple- When you get to the part of the pattern that says “continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 16 ¾ (16 ¾, 17, 17 ½, 17 ¾) inches from cast-on edge.”- you can just continue to knit until it is the desired length.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Marilla
I have a question. I’m at the ‘shape neckline and shoulders’ section and I have 24 stitches for each sleeve, but 58 each for front and back instead of the listed 56. Help!
Hello Candi,
Thank you for contacting us- we have all been there! Because you only have to extra stitches it shouldn’t be a big deal to just decrease two stitches. If I were you I would k2tog on the right side of your sweater and ssk on the left side of your sweater. I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
I ran into a problem when doing the short rows. After I finished, there is a wider gap at the marked side… by quite a bit. I do the math, dividing the total number of stitches in half (for each side) and it doesn’t seem to work out but no one else seems to be having this problem. Am I missing something? I am making a size 40. After doing the first round of short rows, I knit 93 and did all the second side short rows before discovering the discrepancy on the sides. Trying to figure out where I went wrong I added up the number of stitches and it still doesn’t seem to come out mathematically…
Sorry~ my bad. I frogged it and figured out that my problem was with the short rows. I was working with German short rows and doing my w&t on one stitch too soon. I think that’s my problem… I’ll see what happens now.
Please let me know how this goes! I seem to be having a similar problem.
Lovely pattern, but I managed to use a different yarn a a completely different gauge – foolhardy non?! Finished the sweater and didn’t like the front raglans, they were too poufy, so being the good Sewist (!) I pinned and have deduced I need to decrease more in the front raglan seams. Ripped out 52 rows! Gosh, sorry, I’m getting to the question!
The neckline had horrible holes where I joined the stitches previously held on the holder. Think I accidentally pulled the loose yarn ends which tightened them in parts. I just don’t want to risk holes at that neckline join again.
Is there anything I should look out for when joining? Is this a common problem with joins like this?
Very tempted to try this in a fine wool, but need a V neck option, here I go free styling again!
Hi Lesley,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! How very brave and exciting! Holes when joining back in tend to be caused by pulling a bit too tightly. You can try easing up a bit at the join points. Additionally, you can always fix small holes after the fact by duplicate stitching over the hole or sewing them up on the back side using some scraps of your yarn.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello! I have been knitting since my grandmother taught me at six years old. I’m now twenty four years old and this will be my first sweater! Before I begin, I already have US size 4 circular needles but they’re only 29 inches long. I am making the 36 inch sweater, will these needles be too short?
Thank you for your time!
Tori
Hi Victoria,
How lovely to have been taught by your grandmother! For the size that you are making, a 29″ long needle will work fine. You will still need the 16″ needles and well as the DPNs but as far as the longest needle, I think that you should be all set!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Thanks for such a timely reply! My linen qill comes in on Thursday and I cannot wait to begin!
Tori
hi! thank you guys for lovely free pattern.
maybe you can help me to figure out “raglan decrease”. i’m making 36 size and after joined the sleeves and started “raglan decrease round” (for all sizes) i’ve noticed that decreasing only sleeves (i suspect i’ve placed the markers wrong). after [8 stitches decreased] i still have 112 stitches for each Front and Back and 76 stitches for each sleeve. do you have any suggestions what i can do at this point?
greetings from ukraine:)
Magdalena
reading through your comments and replies i’ve realized that it’s not the markers. i’ve been doing decrease wrongly (4 stitches for one round).
although, can you please clarify how to decrease 8 stitches in one round?
thank you,
M
Hi Magalena,
Thanks for writing in! I sometimes find that it is helpful to write out an expanded version of a round. The Raglan Decrease Round reads: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Expanded, it will read: K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm.
In the above, I have bolded the decreases. In each repeat, you decrese 1 at the begining and 1 at the end, repeating the repeat 4 times for a total of 8 stitches decreased.
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
Thank you very much, Cassy!
Hi,
I started this project a couple months back and have just come back to it and have lost my notes. I am trying to figure out which short row “row” I was on so I don’t have to redo the bottom shaping. I have about 2.5″ from the longest portion of the body for a size 36. I am sure I was in the middle of shaping one side of the sweater.
MY question is how are you supposed to count the number of short rows you’ve completed and know which row you are on the “SHAPE BOTTOM EDGE”? I know I need to count the number of rows, but I am not sure which stitch I should count from.
Hi Dhruvi,
Thanks for writing in! Figuring out where you are can be a bit complicated but it can be done. You will want to count the number of stitches between the most recently finished wrap and turn and the last one. You can then work out which short row you were on by counting how many you should have based on each short row. For example, the first short row for the size 36, you knit 84 stitches and then wrap and turn. For the second row, you purl 42 stitches and then wrap and turn. Then for row 3, you knit to the wrap and turn and knit the stitch with its paired wrap and knit 4 stitches further. Now there should be 47 stitches between the wraps.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
After the knit w&t do I purl to BOR before I count the purl stitches or do I count the purl stitches immediately after the w&t?
Hi Ashlee,
Thanks for writing in! After you complete the wrap and turn, you will continue onto the next short row. So if you are knitting the smallest size, for short row 1, you will knit 75, wrap and turn (wrp-t). And then you will begin short row 2 by purling 38 and then wrap and turn. The turn portion of the wrap and turn, sets you up for the next short row!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I’d like to start by saying that this pattern is fantastic and the linen quill is absolutely heavenly to work with!
I’ve completed both sleeves, however I am on my third attempt at the short rows for the bottom of the body. They are coming out fantastic, up until the front and back meet at the sides. I keep ending up with a large gap on both sides and I can’t figure out why! Are there any tips or tricks for this?
Best,
Tori
Hi Tori,
Thanks for writing in and thank you for your kind words! We love Linen Quill too!
With this lovely sweater, there two bottoms will not meet in a flat continuous fashion. When connecting them, they will swoop up to meet each other to a point in the middle. It could be that you are pulling a bit too tight or a bit too loosely on the stitches nearest the sides. It might be easier to understand what is happening if you were able to send us an image. If you can, please do so to [email protected] and we will do our best to help you figure out how best to proceed!
Best,
Cassy
hi! I knitted this raglan pattern last fall and LOVED it. am trying the striped spring shirt now and would like the sleeves and bottom to have the same finish as this pattern with the cording stitch to prevent rolling.
I can just follow these instructions for the main body hem but since the sleeves are worked top down on that pattern I am a bit at a loss. is there a way to finish the sleeves on that pattern the same way?
thank you!
Hi Elise,
Thanks for writing in and for your very kind words! You can certainly give the cording stitch a go on your Striped Spring Shirt. While I have not worked cording stitch top down, the principle should still hold and the look should not be too different. I would give it a go as you would have worked it in this pattern being sure to knit a few more rounds after the cording round.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Help! I’m working on the Neckband section and can’t figure out how to pick up the wrapped stitches that come after knitting the 20 on-hold Front Neckline stitches. I was able to pick up the previous wrapped stitches before I hit the 20 neckline stitches with no problem, but now I think I’m knitting toward wraps that I made on the purl side and when I try to pick them up, big holes appear. If I were approaching these wraps from the purl side, I would know how to pick them up, but since I’m coming at them from the knit side, I’m not sure what to do. Any advice?
Hi Kelsey,
Thanks for writing in! Picking up wraps that were completed on the purl side can be a bit tricky at first but it need not create holes! Using the right hand needle, you will pick up the wrap, placing it next to the wrapped stitch on the left hand needle and then you will knit the wrap together with its wrapped stitch. This should prevent holes from forming while still picking up the wrap!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am having the same issue as Kelsey. The way you described it is if you were picking up the wrap on the purl side. The issue is I am trying to pick up a purl-side wrap on the knit side to join the on hold stitches with the rest of the round. When you are looking at the stitch while knitting, the purl wrapped stitch is wrapped around the right side of the stitch, making it too tight to pick it up and put it on the left needle. At least I can’t figure out how to do it that way. It seems like you would need to do a different type of wrapped stitch in order to join in the round. I could pick up the other wraps, but this is the wrap from the 2nd short row. Any suggestions? Thanks! Other than this issue, this has been a fun pattern to knit!
Hi Meghan,
Thanks for writing in! Picking up wraps made on the purl side while knitting on the knit side can be a bit confusing. In general, you pick them up in the same fashion that you would a wrap made on the knit side. This does mean that you will be able to see the wrap. There are alternate short row types that hide the wraps. I hear that German Short Rows do this quite well, but we do not have a tutorial for these type of short rows.
For the wrapped purls, you will want to knit to the wrapped purl stitch and using the right-hand needle, pick up the wrap from the front of your work placing it on the left needle over the stitch that it was wrapped around and then knitting those two stitches together. If the wrap is too tight to do this, you may have pulled the wrap a bit too tight as you were knitting or purling initially. You can try picking it up with a smaller gauge needle, just being sure to transfer the 2 stitches that are knit together as one back to your regular needle to even out the gauge. This should help you from having to rip back to reknit the short rows.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’d love to have this sweater pattern sized for kids!
Hi Vanessa,
Thanks for writing in! We certainly appreciate the suggest and will keep it in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
is it common for people’s tension to be looser in the short row section on bottom? i’m finding my gauge to be quite different from my swatch gauge and wondering if it’s due to loose purling…
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! It is possible that short rows can change your gauge a bit. I would do another gauge swatch to be sure you aren’t just knitting a bit looser or tighter than when you started. That a common issue for a lot of knitters!
Best,
Carly
I have a question about Short Row 12 for the neck shaping. I am making the 36 inch size and I just want to confirm how many stitches should be remaining when I do the wrp-t. As I read the instructions I have 24 stitches remaining when the wrp-t occurs on the purl side. However on Row 11 it came with 18 stitches. Can you confirm for me?
Thank you – I am so excited to finish this sweater as it has been a full year of work.
Hello Rachel,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations on almost being finished with your sweater! Just to confirm you are talking about the number of stitches left on each side of your row during the wrap and turns?
Once you start to only decrease on one side of the sleeves rather than both the number on either side will be deferent. You should have 18 stitches on the left side for row 9 and 16 stitches on the right side for row 10. When you get to row 11 you will have 13 stitches for Right Front, 13 stitches for Right Sleeve, 44stitches for Back, 14 stitches for Left Sleeve, 14 stitches for Left Front. This means that you will do a wrap and turn when you have 25 stitches left, because you have 14 stitches for the front left and you have 14 total stitches for your left sleeve, and you just k1, ssk, k1, which leaves 11 stitches and 11 plus 14 = 25. For row 12 you will have 26 sts.
I know this is a lot and I hope it makes sense and please feel free to reach out if you need any clarification
Warmly,
Marilla
This is such a beautiful sweater! Do you have any plans to make a baby/toddler version of this? Or could you recommend a similar baby/toddler pattern? Thank you!
Hello Chelsea,
Thank you for reaching out and for such kind words! We do not have a baby/toddler version of this pattern, but I will certainly pass along your request! We do have a couple of lovely baby sweaters, I would check out our Easy Pullover or our Purl Soho Pullover.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there! Do you have anything you do differently when joining yarn in the round in an airy knit like this? What’s your preferred method for joining yarn in the round?
Hello Jessica,
Thank you for reaching out! You will join your yarn in the round just like any other yarn for this project, just join and knit, no special technique require. 🙂
Happ knitting!
-Marilla
I am making this in size 36 and ordered 3 skeins. I’d like to make it a little longer than called for in the pattern…maybe 2 inches longer. Should I order another skein of linen quill?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! We recommend having 1,210 yards for the size 36, which is about 2.75 skeins of Linen Quill. I think you should have enough spare yardage for your extra length, but if in doubt, you can order another skein, and as long as it is unwound you can exchange it for store credit.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I know that as soon as I read your answer to my question, it will be really obvious. Right now, I just can’t visualize it. I’m on the short rows. I knitted up a flat swatch to make sure I could do the wraps. I used a shadow wrap, all good, no holes. Short rows in the round. In reading the pattern, it looks like I knit the short rows of the front piece the sweater first, forming the shirt tail effect. How do you get to the back piece and start knitting the shirt tail there? Or are both shirt tails being done at the same time?
Hi Angela,
I think I can help! Each rounded hem is worked separately. After working Short Rows 1-28, on row 29, you will resolve the wrap and turn from the previous row, then continue knitting without turning to move on to the back of the sweater. You then repeat rows 2-29, which will create the curved hem on the back of the sweater. I hope that answers your question!
Regards,
Julianna
I need help! Question about the Raglan decrease round, with 8 stitches decreased. Do you you do round twice around to get 8? I am so confused!
Thank you, Crystal
Hi Crystal,
Thanks for writing in! I sometimes find that it is helpful to write out an expanded version of a round. The Raglan Decrease Round reads: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Expanded, it will read: K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm.
In the above, I have bolded the decreases. In each repeat, you decrese 1 at the begining and 1 at the end, repeating the repeat 4 times for a total of 8 stitches decreased.
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
But I am still confused , do you end up doing 2 rounds to get to the eight stitches? It appears to me this is the same decrease as sleeve but repeated to get to 8 is the correct?
Crystal
I just figured it out! Thanks so much!
Crystal
I love this sweater and have a single skein of the color I want to use. I’ll certainly need to order more, but it will be from a different dye lot. Do you think if I alternate skeins (every row or every few rows) I would be able to easily disguise that they’re from different dye lots? Would this sweater lend itself to doing that?
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! Alternating rows is a great way to disguise varying dye lots, and I think it would work especially well in a slightly textured and heathered yarn like our Linen Quill. I would wait until after the Wrap & Turn sections and then begin alternating skeins on every row. When you order, however, please let us know in the order notes what dye lot you already have so we can check our warehouse just in case we have a few more skeins of the same lot!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! Could this sweater be made with the Mulberry Merino? I am concerned that my skin may be too sensitive for the linen quill. Or do you have any other recommendations for yarn choices that would be softer? I also love the black green color option for merino. Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately Mulberry Merino is quite a bit thicker than Linen Quill so it would not be a good substitute. Linen Quill does soften up quite a bit after washing and wearing a few times, but we do also have plenty of fingering weight options that may be more up your alley! I would recommend taking a look at our Line Weight, Woolfolk Tynd and Sno, or Manos del Uruguay Fino to see if you prefer any of those fibers.
Good luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! Would it be possible for you to tell me the finished length of the sleeve from the neckband to the cuff for the size 36 sweater? Thanks!
Hello Toni,
Thank you for reaching out! We just measured our sample in the shop and the length from the neckband down to the bottom of the sleeve is about 24.5″.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m making this sweater right now and not having many problems. However I’ve been knitting for many years and honestly? This sweater would have been much easier to read, work, and understand if it had been designed as a top-down.
Hi Shawna,
Thanks for reaching out! While we currently don’t have any plans for a top down version of this sweater and many knitters have been successful with the pattern, I will pass your thoughts on to the design team to consider for future projects. Thanks again for the great suggestion!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I am looking to make this pattern and am confused on which size to make. My bust is 36″, and I couldn’t tell if the size 36 would fit alright or if I should go up to size 40. I like my sweaters slightly oversized, maybe just 1 or 2 inches of positive ease.
Thanks!
Hi Ally,
Thanks for reaching out! I think the size 40 might be a better fit – a sweater with zero ease tends to be very form fitting, and based on your measurements, the size 40 would within our recommendation of one to four inches of positive ease. If you are still in doubt, I would recommend measuring a lightweight sweater you already own that fits you well to see which size is closest to a sweater you are already happy with.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Do you know if it would be possible to use a seed stitch on this pattern? If so, would you suggest just the front and back or the entire project? Would I have to get additional yarn?
I’m also considering a shorter sleeve…perhaps to the elbow?
I’d love your thoughts and feedback.
Thank you so very much!!
Hi Suzan,
Thanks for writing in! Although you will definitely need to knit a gauge swatch when making such a major alteration to the pattern, Seed Stitch usually has a similar stitch gauge to Stockinette Stitch, so I think you may be able to get the correct gauge and proceed with the pattern without too many changes! You may find that your Seed Stitch swatch has more rows per inch than stockinette, which is less important for the fit of the sweater than the stitch gauge, but will affect your yardage. I would recommend purchasing an extra skein of Linen Quill just in case! Design elements are entirely up to you – I think the sweater would look equally gorgeous in either allover seed stitch or thoughtfully placed panels!
Unfortunately, shortening the sleeves is quite a bit trickier as they are knit from the cuff up and would require rewriting the entire sleeve pattern, which we are unable to do through the comments. We will however keep that idea in mind for future designs!
Best of luck and please let us know how your seed stitch sweater turns out!
Julianna
I feel like I’m going crazy. I’ve been knitting for years and I wouldn’t say my tension as a knitter is loose. I’m using Linen Quill, size 4 US needles, and making an extra small and yet my sleeves are massive! I now my gauge must be off since I’m more than half-way done with the first sleeve and my circumference is measuring at 14″. Is all hope lost and I should go down to a size 2? Has anyone else had this issue?
Hello Clarice,
Thank you for reaching out! The first step to finding a solution to this is to measure your gauge, just to be sure it is in fact a gauge issues. Once you have done this you will need to go down in needle size until you are getting 28 stitches and 33 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch. For the most accurate measurement I would recommend knitting your gauge swatch in the round.
I hope this helps- let us know how it goes or if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi Clarice,
I had the same problem! I knitted the sleeve with #4 needles and it was already 14-15″ wide, only 7″ up! I then frogged the entire sleeve, and started over with needles a size down: 2.5 for the cuff, then size 3 for the rest. I had to add an extra row for my increases, though. I don’t know why mine were so off either, though I did notice, as I did TWO swatches, that the #4, it was about 29-30 stitches for 4″, the #3 was exactly 28. I’d thought it wouldn’t make much difference to use the #4, plus the row height was more accurate…but evidently, small discrepancies really add up!
Now I’m facing the issue of whether I should just knit the body the next size down…I don’t know why more people aren’t encountering this problem. It is the first sweater I’ve ever knitted, so, perhaps that is why?
Also, my swatches weren’t in the round.
I’d be interested to hear how your finished sweater turned out.
Marylynn
Hi Marylynn,
Thanks for reaching out! It is quite surprising sometimes how even being off by a stitch or two on the gauge can so drastically effect the sizing of a sweater, but those little differences really add up when repeated over the full width of a sweater body or sleeve! I would suggest knitting the body in the size you wish to make using the needles that gave you the correct gauge – generally, stitch gauge is much more important than row gauge, since many patterns, including this one, have you knit to a specific length rather than number or rows for most sections. If you must choose, I would recommend using the needle that gives you the correct stitch gauge.
Best,
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
Thanks for the advice, though I ended up just using the. #4 on the body and knitting a size down from what I would need, and it seems to have worked out—did a size 36 and the result is about 40 inches. My thinking was that it would take too much longer to knit with the smaller needles. I’m just about to start the neck shaping short rows (gulp!).
I’ll send a photo of my results when done.
Marylynn
Hey 🙂 I am really excited about this sweater! I have finished the sleeves and they came out nicely and have done all the short rows plus 2 regular stockinette rows, and the bottom won’t stop rolling 🙁 what do I do? Is it going to do this forever?
Hi Jamie,
Thanks for reaching out and for the kind words! Although the sweater does have a tiny rolled edge, the Cording Stitch worked around the hem and sleeves should minimize this effect, as will blocking! If you are concerned, I would suggest putting your stitches on scrap yarn and steam blocking the hem to make sure you will be happy with the finished hem. If it still rolls too much for your liking, you could always substitute an inch or so of garter stitch before beginning the short rows.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have knitted this jumper in Linen Quill and loved it. I would like to do another one in Cotton Pure. Do you think it would work?
Hi Anna-Lena,
Thanks for writing in! Although you may be able to get the appropriate gauge with Cotton Pure, I think the resulting fabric would be quite dense and stiff and not have quite the same character as the original sweater. Instead, if you would like a warm weather sweater, I think Cattail Silk would be an excellent substitution!
Best,
Julianna
Is there an ideal cast on to use? One that goes particularly well with this style sweater? I could not find any reference in the instructions. Thanks for the help!
Hi Marie,
Thanks for reaching out! We usually use a Long-Tail Cast On for most of our projects, but I think you could also use a loose Cable Cast-On for this sweater if you prefer!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you for this wonderful pattern, I made the sweater and I loved learning all the new techniques that I didn’t know before. But I did run into some problems. I have small holes at the wrap/turn when done on the purl side while I had to pick up the double stitch on the knit side at the neck area. When I wrap/turned on the knit side I don’t have the holes. How do I deal with the cut yarn in the front and back when making the neck shape? The pattern said to cut the yarn on the front side, slip stitches tp the other side and then restart the yarn. But now I have these loose yarns in the middle of a smooth area. What do you do with these? Thank you so much for your help.
I can’t wait to try other patterns.
Iris
Hello Iris,
Thank you for reaching out and you kind words! Congratulations on being so close to finishing your sweater. I have a couple of ideas about how this could be happening- picking up wraps that were completed on the purl side can be a bit tricky at first but it need not create holes! Using the right hand needle, you will pick up the wrap, placing it next to the wrapped stitch on the left hand needle and then you will knit the wrap together with its wrapped stitch. This should prevent holes from forming while still picking up the wrap.
Additionally, holes when joining back can be caused by pulling a bit too tightly. You can try easing up a bit at the join points. Additionally, you can always fix small holes after the fact by duplicate stitching over the hole or sewing them up on the back side using some scraps of your yarn.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I’m a plus size lady & usually have no trouble increasing patterns to fit however this looks a little daunting to me. Can you provide instructions for 1X -3X sizes please???
Hello Lynellen,
We are very sorry that our patterns aren’t currently in your size range. We really do appreciate that bodies come in all shapes and sizes and share your concern that patterns be as inclusive as possible. As a small company, we haven’t yet had the resources to offer the scope of sizes we would like to, but as our company grows, we have been steadily expanding that range and plan to continue to do so!
Please be on the lookout, and thank you so much for adding your voice to this issue. We greatly appreciate your feedback!
Warmly,
Marilla
I have been knitting for years and I have never come across what you refer to as “cord Stitching!” is there a tutorial on this that I I can watch? Do I do this with every stitch in the round on the body? and what is the purpose of this?
thank you!
cindy
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for writing in! The cording stitch creates a decorative hem edging on the body, sleeves, and neck of the sweater. Unfortunately we do not have a video tutorial for this technique, but we do have a picture tutorial included in the pattern, and you only have to work it for one row at the bottom edge of each sleeve and the body and to finish the neck edge – the rest of the sweater is regular stockinette stitch!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
What am I missing? I start with 52 increase to 54 and repeat on the 7th row 12 more times (which is 78). Then I increase the 6th (80) and the 4th (82). So how do I get to 84?
Thanks
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! It can be quite a math puzzle sometimes to read increase instructions like these! You are correct that you will have 78 stitches after increasing every 7th round 12 more times. The next part of the instructions, which reads “then (increase) every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times,” for the smallest size should be interpreted as increasing every 6th row 4 more times, which should add up to 86 stitches when you are done.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Could I use your Line Weight wool in Merino wool to make this?
Thank you.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for writing in! While Line Weight is the correct weight and should knit up to the correct gauge for this sweater, it is a very delicate yarn and may not hold up very well to the rigors of being an adult sweater. However, if you are prepared for this, it would make a heavenly soft and light weight sweater! I would just be sure to take extra care when laundering it and try not to wear it under heavy layers or when doing strenuous activity to limit friction and wear and tear on the yarn.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is my first sweater. I’m making the size 32 and I’ve knit the body to 13 1/2″. I’m confused about the next step: “knit 5, place pervious 10 stitches on stitch holder for left underarm.” So if I start at the end of round marker and knit 5, are the previous 10 stitches, the 10 stitches to the right of my marker? I remove those to a holder and remove the marker? I want to make sure I remove the right ones! Thanks. This has been a fun challenge for me so far, as a fairly new knitter.
Hello Tricia,
Thank you for reaching out and happy first sweater! You are exactly right, you put the 5 stitches you just knit plus five stitches on the other side of your stitch marker, so you are removing your stitch maker. This means you are putting the 10 stitches that you knit most recently on a stitch holder.
I hope this all makes sense and let me know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Thanks for clarifying that, Marilla. It was not clear to me when I finished the sleeve that the knitted first 5 stitches were also supposed to go on the stitch holder along with the ones to the right of the stitch marker (it didn’t specify in the directions). It was not until I saw the photo of the sleeves on your web site that I realized I’d done something wrong.
Marylynn
Do you think that lantern is appropriate for this pattern? I would very much appreciate your answer!
Hello Anthi,
Thank you for reaching out! Lantern is going to be to thick to work for this sweater. If you are looking for an alternative yarn this sweater knits up beautifully in our Cattail Silk.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Thank you for your suggestion Marilla, I bought the yarn because I liked it so much! Finally, I am knitting -for a second time- the M.Patmos crossover sweater using 3 mm needles. Let’s see! It knits up beautifully so far.
Thank you Marilla! I was actually looking for a pattern to use the yarn I had bought! I decided to start the M.Patmos sweater (for a second time). It knits up beautifully so far. We’ll see!
Hi – I hope you can help? This is my first ever knitted garment (scarves don’t count) and I’m stuck.
I’ve reached the neck shaping part of the pattern. Short row 1 says to wrap and turn , but I don’t know how! – I am at the end of a row so have no stitch to slip, unless I take one of the 20 held stitches?
Also I don’t understand when/how those 20 held stitches will be incorporated into the rest of my knitting.
Grateful for anything you can offer!
– Melinda
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for reaching out! You can learn how to work a wrap and turn in our Short Rows Tutorial! You should end this first short row by knitting to the last stitch of the row and working the wrap and turn on the very last stitch before the held stitches. Once you have worked all the short rows for the neck shaping, you will place the held stitches back on the needle and work a few rounds to finish the neck edge.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi! I am just finishing the first sleeve of this raglan and I am a bit confused on the instructions for the last row. I am knitting a size 36 and have 86st. The instructions say to knit 5st and then put the previous 10st on a stitch holder…including the 5st I’ve just knitted?(So basically I have 5st from 1 row and 5 from the previous row which I don’t knit at the end?)
Thanks in advance!
Alessandra
Hi Alessandra,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct – the 10 that you place on a holder will be 5 stitches from either side of the center marker, so that when you attach the sleeve to the body, the center line of the sleeve will align correctly with the center of the armhole.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
When doing the short rows, what does it mean when it says “work wrapped stitch with its wrap?”
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for writing in! You can see how to work this technique in the second half of our Short Rows tutorial, in the sections titled Picking Up The Wrap On The Knit Side and Purl Side.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
I just finished making my gauge swatch for this sweater and I’m right on with the circular needles I’ll be using for the body. Should I make another gauge swatch with the double pointed needles that I’ll be using for the sleeves? I’d hate to have crazy sleeves on my nice body. Suggestions?
Thanks!
Kim
Hi Kim,
Great question! As long as your double pointed needles are the same size as your circular needle, I wouldn’t necessarily knit another gauge swatch. The only thing that may cause an issue is if the technique of using double points causes you to knit tighter or looser than normal, but it isn’t a common problem and I wouldn’t remedy that with changing the needle size unless the difference was drastic. I would just recommend paying attention to how you knit when you are working on the sleeves to keep your tension as even as possible.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi again! I have another question about this raglan. I’ve tried working the short rows for the bottom edge shaping two times already and something is just not right! When reading the instructions I assumed that I would have an equal number of sts on each side of the short row. On row 27 (knit side) I knitted all the stitches and remained with 1 st (the wrap and turn), on row 28 I was left with 3 extra stitches. The pattern doesn’t say anything about this but my guess is that each side would have to be symmetrical, right?
Thank in advance!
Hello Alessandra,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct this portion should be symmetrical, It is incredibly easy to get off in this section. I would say that if you sweater looks good there is no reason why you couldn’t just carry on as you will just continue in stockinette and it shouldn’t affect the pattern to much.
I’m sorry I can’t exactly pinpoint your issue, but I hope this gives you some insight!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello,
I have done the bottom hem short rows twice now and I’m having the same problem. I’m making the size 40. I have marked the halfway point (separating front from back) and my short rows for the front are finishing a few stitches into the back panel. That can’t be right! I have been meticulous in marking off my rows the second time but I’m still over. I checked the short row tutorial to make sure I was doing them right too. Where else could I be going wrong? Any suggestions?
A stitch count between wrap ‘n turns in the pattern might be helpful to catch any mistakes before completing the short row section. It’s so disheartening to get that far and only then see it’s not working.
Hi Alison,
Hmm, this is a tough one! I double checked the math for the short rows for your size and it does work out – your final right side short row should end with a wrap and turn in the last stitch before the side seam marker. The only thing I can think of is that you may be missing which stitches are the wrapped stitches when knitting or purling to the wrapped stitch – in a textured yarn like Linen Quill and especially if you are using a dark yarn, it can be difficult to spot the wrapped stitch. I would suggest placing a removable stitch marker in each wrap and turn stitch so it is easier to spot!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! Unless I’ve missed something, I’m finding that when I complete the body’s short rows I’m left with two purl-side wraps (from both short rows number 28), with no instructions as to how the wraps should be picked up. After that row 28 purl-side wrap and turn, the next instruction on both sides is to knit to wraps, but there’s no flip to pick up purl wraps. It’s left me with small holes that I’ll be able to fix in finishing, but I just want to know what I’m missing. Thanks!
Hello Tyler,
Thank you for reaching out! On row 28 of short rows you are on the purl side, So after doing 1 wrap and turn as the directions say you will be on the right side with only 1 wrapped stitch to work. I’m wondering if there was an accidental extra wrap you made?Unless the issue is at the wrap and turn at the end of row 29 of your short rows. This brings you back to row 2 which doesn’t tell you to pick up that wrapped stitch on the purl side in the pattern. That will leave a wrap that I would recommend picking up on the purl side as you were doing before.
Please keep me posted about your problem! Has it been worked out?
Warmly,
-Marilla
Hi Marilla! Thanks for this. I know I followed the wrap instructions to the letter so not sure why I encountered so many purl-side wraps while knitting. There are a significant number, which row should they be picked up on? Same question for the short rows at the neckline – when you pick up the front neck stitches it says to pick up remaining wraps, all of which were made while purling – is there a technique to pick up wraps created while purling counter-clockwise when knitting in a clockwise direction? I improvised and it turned out okay, but as a result of trying to go back and pick up those wraps I have gaps on either side of the 18 front neck stitches from when they were rejoined.
Hello Tyler,
Picking up wraps that were completed on the purl side can be a bit tricky at first but it need not create holes! Using the right hand needle, you will pick up the wrap, placing it next to the wrapped stitch on the left hand needle and then you will knit the wrap together with its wrapped stitch. This should prevent holes from forming while still picking up the wrap!
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Help! I love the look of this sweater and bought the beautiful Linen Quill. I cast on for the sleeves and the body in the size 36. As I am knitting I can tell the sleeves are way too big. Knit on for the smaller size. Same thing. So back to trying the body and it’s outrageously huge.
I’m an advanced knitter and my swatches show the correct gauge. Is it possible there is a typo in how many stitches to cast on?
Many thanks for any help you can offer. This is my second project with Linen Quill and I adore it.
Hi Roni,
Oh no, that sounds so frustrating! We have knitted several samples and there are quite a lot of completed projects on Ravelry and we haven’t had any complaints of errors in the pattern. Is it possible that your in the round gauge is different from your flat knitted gauge? I also find that in my own work I sometimes knit tighter on my swatch since I’m paying more attention to it and then relax a bit when I’m knitting the actual garment and end up with a looser gauge. I would recommend measuring your gauge on your actual sweater or sleeve and adjust your needle size based on that measurement.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is a beautiful sweater that knits up beautifully with the linen quill… My only problem is that it’s come up a bit short in the length of the body. Agh! I’m considering picking up stitches at the bottom to add length and then mimic the edging again a little ways down. Is this a terrible idea? Do you have any suggestions for adding length without having to rework the entire sweater?!? Thank you for any suggestions that you can provide!
Hi Christina,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m sorry to hear that you sweater isn’t long enough! Since it might be a bit odd to add length right on top of the curved hem, rather than picking up stitches, I would recommend picking out or cutting off your cast on and unraveling your short rows. You can then knit to your desired length, reverse engineer the short rows and edging, and cast off. No one will be any the wiser that you had to perform sweater surgery!
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I just finished the sweater and I’m not in love with the way the neck has turned out. It won’t roll on the sides and it looks odd to me. Do you have a suggestion for a different neckline that will work with the raglan? I made size 36.
Thank-you.
Hi Wendy,
I’m so sorry to hear that you’re not entirely happy with your new sweater! Raglan sweaters work well with quite a wide variety of neck edgings. The most common would be a 1×1 or 2×1 rib worked on a needle one or two sizes smaller than your main needle, similar to our Sweatshirt Sweater. Another option would be to finish with a narrow I-Cord Cast Off – although we don’t have a tutorial for this technique, there are quite a few out there and it would create a more stable, predictable rolled edge.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am starting to work on the yoke. However, I narrowed each sleeve by 10 stitches to make it fit better, and so my stitch count doesn’t match the pattern. Any tips for the raglan decrease rounds? If I follow the pattern and decrease until the overall stitch count matches, I’m worried the yoke will be too short. If I do the full number of decrease rounds given, I’ll have too few stitches at the end.
Hi Elise,
Thanks for reaching out! Although it may be a bit tricky to keep track of, I would suggest skipping some of the raglan decreases on the sleeves only, while continuing the decreases on the front and back, to account for the missing stitches without shortening the yoke. I would do this at the beginning of the raglan decreases, and rather than skipping them all at once, would skip the sleeve decreases on every other decrease row five times. You should then have the correct number of stitches for each section and will work the same number of overall rows in the yoke.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I am at the shape neckline + shoulders section. “Knit to the next marker, sm, knit 36…” I’m working on knitting the 36, but there’s another stitch marker after 24 stitches! Do I just slip that marker, keep knitting until I’ve completed 36 stitches and then place the previous 18 stitches on scrap yarn? Or do I have a massive mistake??? Thanks for any help you can provide!
Hi Tricia,
Thanks for writing in! In this section and for your size you will knit across the stitches for one of the sleeves, slip the marker and then knit 36 of the 54 stitches that you have for the front (for your size this section should have 56 stitches) and then place the previous 18 stitches on scarp yarn. I am not sure where the extra marker in this run is coming from. Perhaps you added an additional stitch marker at some point. I also think that it may help to know that the first stitches that you will knit across on this round are sleeve stitches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love the finishing on the edges of this sweater but had trouble finding the purl bump 4 rows below. To solve this problem, I used a contrasting yarn for the 4th row. It made it so much easier to complete the finishing and the contrasting yarn was not visible from the right side.
Hello, I got some yarn from Maine when I went in vacation there a few summers ago and have about 1575 yards of it (same weight!). I am interested in making the size 40. I was wondering about how many yards the size 40 sweater requires. I noticed a comment about the approximate yardage for a different size, but didn’t come across the 40. Thank you for any help! I hope I can make this sweater, it is so beautiful and simple looking!
Hi Erin,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! For this size, you will need about 1,365 yards of yarn, so you should have plenty!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! I’m getting ready to start this sweater and I have a question. If I wanted to make the sweater a bit more cropped — say a just below the top of a pair of high-waisted jeans — can you tell me about how long the Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge measurement should be? For reference: I am 5’4” and usually a size S or XS. I know there won’t be an exact right answer to this question but hoping to get your opinion. Thanks!
Hi Jill,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct, there isn’t really a right answer for this since everyone’s body is different – even knowing your height, you could be long or short waisted which would affect the answer. I would suggest measuring the side seam of a sweater you like the length of, or, if you don’t have a cropped sweater already, you could try on a sweater you like the fit of and mark where you would like the hem to be on the side seam using a safety pin and measure from there to the armpit. This should give you a fairly precise measurement of how long to knit the body of your sweater.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Loved the look of this sweater and got 3/4 way thru and was unable to complete due to the confusing directions. Its sitting in a box waiting for me to maybe pay and take it to a knitting store near me and see if they can help me finish it. I made it to the neckline/shoulder.
Hi Jennifer,
I’m so sorry to hear that you are at a standstill with your sweater! Is there a particular step I can try to clarify for you?
Best,
Julianna
Yes, a you tube tutorial would be FABULOUS!
Hi Gabi,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this, but if there is a particular step in the pattern that is giving you trouble, I would be happy to try to explain it!
Best,
Julianna
Jennifer, did you ever figure it out? I got to the same section and was ready to throw in the towel but then figured out what they meant. Please let me know if you still need help? I see it was feb. of this year when you posted.
I was interested in your newer pattern (shown in silk) as it LOOKED like the bottom edge was straight, or at least less curved? However I am referred to the original pattern so I’m confused. I have already done my sleeves using this pattern and have the bottom/curved edges complete but am suspecting I won’t be happy with the curved edges with my large size.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the effect is less pronounced because it is an extremely drapey yarn, we did knit the curved hems in our Cattail Silk sample. If you prefer to omit the curved hems and don’t mind starting over, you could simply cast on, skip the short rows, and go to the “Continue Body” section.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! I’m planning on making this my next project. I’m new to sweaters and have done everything on circular needles magic loop style so far. Would magic loop work for both the body and the sleeves on this?
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for reaching out! While magic loop won’t be necessary for the body of the sweater, since it will fit comfortably on a 32 inch needle, you could certainly knit the sleeves and neckline using magic loop if you prefer.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Looking forward to starting this sweater soon – but curious if the stated gauge is pre- or post-blocking?
Thanks!
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for reaching out! This is the post-blocking final gauge.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I want to knit this sweater for my daughter. I have already finished the sleeves. I would like to knit the body with a straight bottom hem. I have already completed the the cording hem. Is there any way I can knit the body without the curved hem? If that is possible, what is the number of stitches should I have once I have completed the body and have reached the yolk and have to join on the sleeves. If you can help me, I would really appreciate it, as I love the sweater. Thanks in advance.
Sincerely,
Veena Raghavan
Hi Veena,
Thanks for reaching out! If you prefer to omit the curved hems you can simply cast on the amount indicated for your size, skip the short rows, and go to the “Continue Body” section. The number of stitches for the body remains the same from the cast on to the point where you join the sleeves, regardless of whether you choose to work the short rows or not.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am still hoping that I will get a reply to my question on February 19th about NOT doing the curved hem and just knitting the body straight with a question of how many stitches I should have on my needles when I start the yoke and join the sleeves BUT
I wanted to tell you that I have found a, for me, easier way to do the cording stitch for the hem while keeping it even. I put a thin knitting needle through about 20 of the 4th purl bumps, then knit the stitch off the bump and the active circular needle. Works well for me and is much faster. I hope this tip helps some of your readers if they have not already worked it out for themselves. Thank you.
Veena Raghavan
Hi Julianna,
Thank you for your reply to my query of February 18th and for confirming that I can omit the curved hems and just continue knitting straight, with the same number of cast-on stitches until I have to join the sleeves.
Veena
Hi,
I’m up to the begin shaping raglan round after attaching sleeves and the FOR SIZES 36 AND 40 INCHES ONLY: direction just says knit unlike all the other sizes. I’m making a 40” so what step is next? Do I just knit one whole round for this size then move on to All Sizes for next step?
Hi and thanks for writing in! That is correct – at this point, for size 40, you will knit one round, and then proceed to the next set of directions that are for all sizes.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks! Better safe than sorry when I’ve come this far on a project!
Hi! I’m in a similar spot. I just did my sleeve decrease. Is the next step the Body Decrease or the FOR ALL SIZES? The for all sizes directions don’t indicate the correct starting spot!
Hello Katrina,
Thank you for reaching out! This depends on which size you are making, for example if you are knitting size 40, you will knit 1 round and then go to the raglan decrease round under “FOR ALL SIZES”
I hope this clears things up for you and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hello –
I am working this as my first sweater project and so far so good. The only issue I have is that the bottom is curling up a lot. No one else is mentioning this, so I’m not sure if it’s normal and something that is fixable or if I did something wrong?
Thank you so much for the help and awesome pattern!
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out! It can be normal for the bottom of this sweater to curl up a bit before blocking, so I would suggest giving the hem a light steam or spray blocking while it still on the needles to see if that remedies the situation. If you substituted a different yarn, that could also contribute to the hem rolling up more than ours did, especially if the yarn is thicker than Linen Quill, since a tight or densely knit fabric will roll more aggressively than a looser knit. If the hem does not respond well to blocking, you may want to start over and add a ribbed edging to help the sweater lay flat.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m stuck at the same spot as another commenter. I’ve just added the sleeves for size 40 but I’m confused by the directions. It looks like you only decrease the raglan on the sleeves , not on the body for sizes 36 and 40. I knit it by what the directions seemed to say but it was obviously wrong when I got to the neckline. I was only decreasing on the body so the sleeves were way too big at the top. I’m realizing now that the decreases should have happened on the sleeves but then it looks like the body would be way to wide if you don’t decrease the body as well. Do you decrease on both the sleeve and the body or just the sleeves for size 40?
Thanks for your help! I love your patterns and your site. Next time I’m in NYC I’m going to stop in to your shop.
Hello Beth,
Thank you for reaching out! For size 40, you will knit one round and then go into “Raglan Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]” This means that for your raglan decreases you have decreases on either side on each of your four markers. This means that for your eight decreases, four will be on the sleeve side and four on your body size. I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
THIS answers a question I’ve been asking about, and it seems other knitters have also been confused about. It would be awesome to add this descriptive detail in the pattern instructions so beginners understand how 8 decreased stitches should appear in a single round. Cheers!
I made this sweater from the linen quill and love the texture this yarn brings to the project. The linen quill has been a pleasure to wear, light and warm with good drape. Love the pattern so much, I’m making it again with a much more “homogenous” color yarn.
I’m not an advanced knitter so this pattern was easily adapted to my desired measurements.
I appreciate getting this pattern for free, I love it (and am seriously considering making it a third time!).
When doing the short rows at the bottom of the body, the shaping appear to be for one side. I am unclear how the directions achieve both sides to be rounded.Perhaps I missed this? Any ideas. Thank you. Jbb
Hi Jane,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that Short Rows 1 through 28 do only create the curved hem on the first half of the sweater. When you work Short Row 29, it will have you knit to the second half of the sweater and then repeat Short Rows 1 through 28 to create the same curved hem on the second half. You can find this instruction in the last two lines of the “Shape Bottom Edge” section of the pattern.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve done 4 sweaters with this pattern for myself and to give as a gift. All turned out to be awsome. Thank you for sharing it.
Beautiful design–nice silhouette with the shaped hem and elegant detail with the cording that is especially nice on the neckline. Quill is a pleasure to work with, too. I’m blocking my first sweater and already have cast on for a second one–lots of easy knitting and then a few more complex steps when joining the sleeves and working the short row shaping at the neckline.
I don’t think I could have knit this as my first or beginner’s sweater: Kitchener stitch gets easier with practice (lots of socks!) and your short rows tutorial is highly recommended. Thank you for this wonderful pattern.
does this sweater curl on bottom? I made 2 wraps that weren’t supposed to curl and even with blocking they’re not totally flat. Just want to make sure. Many thanks,
Susan
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out! This lovely sweater does sometimes curl at bottom, but in our experience this is always eliminated with blocking.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Would like to knit this sweater – was wondering how much more yarn would be needed to make longer? Possible 4 inches.
Elaine
Hi Elaine,
Thanks for writing in! Linen Quill has very generous yardage, so I think one extra skein would be plenty to add several inches of length to the sweater.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you
I am having trouble identifying the purl bump for the cording stitch in the photos you posted, especially since I am using a dark colored yarn. Any chance you can post a picture of the purl side, flat and mark the purl bumps 4 rows down? It would really help.
Hello Mauree,
Thank you for reaching out! This can be tricky, particularly with darker colors. If you look at the photo under “Next Round: Work Cording Stitch…” We have identified the bump that you are picking up with a pink bar.
I hope this helps and thank you for the great suggestion!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Marilla,
Tried working from the picture you included but it is somewhat distorted because one needle is bent back to pick up the stitch. Any chance you can provide a straight on pic of the purl side with the bump marked? That would be a HUGE help
Hello Maureen,
I hope I can help! I will certainly pass along your suggestion for additional tutorial photos. In the mean time, the left side will look the same in terms of purl bumps as the photo. I would suggest perhaps zooming in and comparing your knitting to the photo. It helps me to count to the fourth bump down, from the picture, to the bumps next to the marked bump. This helps to clarify which bump you should be picking up.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
In the “Begin Shaping Raglan”, it says FOR SIZE 32 INCHES ONLY: Next round knit; Sleeve Decrease Round: … repeat the last …; Next Round: Knit. FOR SIZES 36 AND 40 INCHES ONLY: Next round knit. FOR SIZES 44 AND 48 … My question is, for size 36 do you do the sleeve decrease, etc., then go on to the Body Decrease Round? There are no #’s indicated for size 36?? Help??
Hi Wendy,
I am happy to help! In this section, for the size 36, you will follow the instructions under “FOR SIZES 36 AND 40 INCHES ONLY” and then move onto the instructions under “FOR ALL SIZES”. Essentially the size 36 and 40 do not need the additional rounds that the other sizes do to get to the same point that you will see under “FOR ALL SIZES”.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Thanks so much. Regards
Hi, me again! This is the second time I have got to the raglan decrease round. I have the four markers and the right number of stitches. When I read the instructions for raglan decrease, I am only decreasing the sleeve stitches, not the body. Where do I do the decrease in the body part (in relation to the markers)? Thanks for your help.
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out! When beginning the raglan decrease round you should have four markers placed including the end of round marker, which will be at the beginning of the left sleeve. Working the first repeat of the raglan decrease round, which is K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm), decreases two stitches from the left sleeve. This bracketed section is repeated four times, which will remove two stitches each from each sleeve and the front back for a total of 8 stitches by the time you get back around to the end of round marker.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I love this sweater, and I am knitting the size 40 chest. I am knitting the first sleeve and I am a bit confused. I says “Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times. [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) stitches] so I have knit an increase every 6th row.” now it says to to knit an increase every 5th row but (0, 16,1, 14) not sure how many times to increase. Sorry if this is a duh question. But need your help.
thanks
Hi Betty,
I am happy to help! I find that it helps to write out the instructions long form! The instructions here read:
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times. [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) stitches]
When you delete all of the information for the other sizes, the instructions for your size (40) would read:
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 6th round 5 more times, then every 5th round 16 times. [104 stitches]
Or written out even more long form….
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 6th round 5 more times. (total of 6 times)
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round 5th round 16 times.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi again. I figured out the raglan decrease steps. Am now at shaping neckline and shoulders. Have got as far as cut the yarn and am totally confused at short row 1. What do I do with the stitches that are on stitch holder ? Help!
Hello Wendy,
Thank you for reaching out! For this portion you are joining your sleeves to your body, before starting your raglan decreases. Once you have done this you will have four sections with stitches on holders. One section on the left side of your body, the right side of your body, your left sleeve and your right sleeve. The left body stitches on a holder and the left sleeve stitches on a holder will be parallel to each other, as will the pair of right stitches. These stitches are are your underarms and will be grafted together once you have finished knitting up your sweater.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
How many yards would I need of fingering yarn to make the small size of this sweater? I made one in #4 yarn already.
Thanks for your reply.
Hello Wendy,
Thank you for reaching out! For the smallest size you need approximately 1,070 yards.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have nearly finished this sweater and am working on the neckline short rows. This is probably a dumb question but here goes: Short row 3 says to knit to the last 5 stitches, then wrap and turn. Do I wrap the last stitch before the 5 last stitches or do I wrap the first of the 5 last stitches? Thanks for your help.
Hi Georgia,
Thanks for reaching out! Don’t worry, reading short row instructions can be tricky! You will be wrapping the first of the last 5 stitches, so after you turn, you will have 5 stitches on your right hand needle, including the wrapped stitch.
Best,
Julianna
Are there other yarns that are comparable with this pattern? I’m curious to see if there’s a “sportier” type of yarn?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! Just about any fingering weight yarn will work well for this pattern. We have also knit this pattern up in Cattail Silk, and I think Sweetgrass would be another lovely summer weight option!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I have a question about sizing. If I have a chest measurement of 35″, would you recommend I make the size 36 or 40? This will be my first attempt at knitting a sweater so I want to make sure I get the sizing right. Thank you!
Hi Annisa,
Thanks for writing in! We suggest the size 36 for 32 to 35 inch chests; however, if you prefer a looser fitting sweater, you could certainly knit the 40 instead! Our pictures show the sweater worn with 3 inches of positive ease, and you would either have 1 inch of positive ease with the size 36 or 5 inches of positive ease with the size 40. One way to figure out which size you will prefer is to measure the chest of a sweater you already own and like the fit of and choose the size that is closest to that measurement.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello,
I’m ALMOST finished my sweater! Just wondering for the short rows on the back of neck shaping, on the right side rows, am I knitting to 5 stitches BEFORE the last wrapped stitch, or actually to the last 5 stitches and wrap the wrapped stitch again? Specifically I am on Short Row 3 but they are all written similarly.
Thank you!
Frances
Hi Frances,
Great question! For these short rows, you will be knitting or purling to the designated number of stitches before the end of the row, which is where the front neckline stitches are on hold. So, for short row 3, you will knit to the last stitches before the end of the row and then work your wrap and turn on the next stitch.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am a beginner knitter and struggling w/the Cording stitch on the sweater body. I am not seeing in the photo of the finished sweater where there is a pleat or a “cord bump” to understand what look I am trying to achieve. Do I necessarily need this stitch for the size 36? What would happen if I just straight knit this row and then went on to the short row instructions? Appreciate your help!
Hi Denise,
Thanks for reaching out! The Cording Stitch can be seen in the images both around the hem and neck of the sweater – it looks a bit like a double rolled edge running parallel to the bottom of the sweater. Without the Cording Stitch, the bottom of the sweater will curl up due to the nature of stockinette stitch, so if you prefer to skip it, I would suggest knitting a few rows of garter stitch instead to help the edges of the sweater lay flat.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you!
Hi. I’m having trouble with the short row turns on the neckband section. I must be really missing something obvious as no one else has written in with this dilemma . As each row wraps and turns further away from the end , I never get to the previous wrapped stitches to pick up the wrap? ie. 5,8,10 stitches before the end . Can you please explain. I’m doing this for the second time because I obviously ended up with holes the first time. Thanks.
Hi Helen,
Thanks for writing in! It does actually sound like you are working this section correctly. As you work the neckline short rows, each row is shorter than the last, so you will have multiple wrap & turns left on your needle. When you work Short Row 13, you will knit all the way to the end of the row, picking up all the wrapped stitches as you come to them, and will then work back across all the stitches on Round 1 of the neckband, picking up the remaining wrapped stitches as you go.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi Juianna,
I also have a question regarding short rows. As short rows get shorter and shorter, it means that we do not pick up wraps as we go. So when we join work in the round again, we have to pick up wraps on the right side that would have been pick-up on the wrong side if we had knitted flat. Those always looked rather awkward. Do you think it is possible to revise pattern so the short rows go from short to long? will that affect shaping?
Hi Anya,
I hope I can help! I think what you mean by short rows going from short to long is that short rows can either expand, by working to the previous wrapped stitch, resolving it, and then working a few more stitches before working another wrap and turn, so that each short row is a little longer than the previous one, or they contract, meaning each wrap and turn is worked before the previous one, so that each short row is a little shorter than the previous one.
Although the two methods do create different shapes – the first creates a right side up pyramid, while the second creates an upside down pyramid – in the final garment, you usually can’t tell the difference between the two, so yes, you can reverse the short rows if you wish. It’s not unusual for the wrapped purl stitches to look a little different from the wrapped knit stitches, but usually the difference is subtle and mostly disappears when the piece is blocked. In this sweater, the short rows do expand so you will only have one final unavoidable wrap and turn to resolve when you resume working in the round.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
This is probably a duh question. With the short rows for the sweater body, after the wrap (e.g., Short Row 1, right side), do I continue purling then to the end of that round? Or does Short Row 2 start after the wrap…and short Row 3 after the SR2 wrap, etc?
Hi Denise,
Thanks for reaching out, and don’t worry, short rows are a tricky skill to master! After turning at the end of each short row you will immediately work the next short row without any rows in between.
I hope that helps, and don’t hesitate to ask if you have any other questions!
Julianna
I am on the raglan decrease rounds and have six more stitches on the back than I do on the front. The sleeves are equal. Is there a way to decrease the back body without it being noticeable?
Thanks for your help,
Candy
Hi Candy,
Thanks for reaching out! If you are only part way through the raglan decreases, I think it would look best to work the extra back decreases in during a few plain, or knit-only, rows, in the same way that you would work the decreases if it were a raglan decrease row. They should blend in nicely with the raglan decrease lines. However, I suspect you may have not distributed the stitches correctly when joining the sleeves to the body, so those three of those extra six stitches may be missing from the front. The front and back should have an even number of stitches throughout this section, so if you have an odd number, you might want to unravel all the way back to the beginning of the raglan to make sure that you will have the correct number of stitches when the raglan decreases are complete.
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
That makes sense; thank you so much!
Hi. I completed sweater in cattail silk and it is beautiful. However when I joined the underarm stitches which were on stitch holders i was left with holes on each side! My kitchener stitch is perfect but I do not know why I have 2 holes at each end of seams. Not sure how to fix this! Take out kitchener stitch maybe. ??
Thanks.
Gloria
Hi Gloria,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! It is actually totally normal to still have holes on either side of the kitchener stitch after closing up the underarm of a sweater, so I’m sure you did everything correctly! You will just have to use the tails of yarn left from working the kitchener stitch to close up any remaining holes before weaving the ends in.
I hope that helps, and congratulations on your nearly finished sweater!
Julianna
To clarify on the increase rows on the sleeve, the first round of increases is to increase every 7th round 12 more times for a total of 13 increase rows; and then every 6th round 4 times for a total of 4 increase rows . Correct?
Hello Peggy,
Thank you for reaching out. Yes- you are exactly right. You first knit 1 increase round and should. After you have done this, you knit your increase round every 7th round 12 times. This totals 13 increase rounds or 26 increased stitches. You then increase every 6th round 4 times. This is 4 increase rounds giving you 8 more stitches.
I hoe this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there,
I’m beginning my sleeve for a size 36 and I’m a little confused about my next step (…then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times. [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) stitches]).
It looks like it ways to add increases every 0 rounds, 0 times. So does this mean that I just disregard this next step and move onto continuing in stockinette?
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, that is correct! Whenever you see a 0 for a set of instructions in your size, that means to skip that step and continue on to the next instructions.
Best,
Julianna
Awesome, thank you!!
Oh how I wish knitting patterns were written in a language I undertsood! Am reduced to making it up as I go along due to the unholy abbreviations which instead of clarifying, make all so much denser. Or is it just me? Thanks anyway.
ps) the short videos are very helpful though.
Hello Leti,
Thank you for reaching out! Let us know if we can clarify anything in this pattern for you!
I hope I can help,
Marilla
Hi there!
I’ve completed sleeve number one and am stuck with putting the stitches onto the waste yarn. The pattern says to knit 13 then put the previous 26 stitches on the waste yarn, remove the marker and knit to end.
1. Does the previous 26 stitches include the 13 that the instructions said to knit first?
2. I’m assuming that waste yarn holds the stitches independently of the needle, but if the 26 stitches that I’m supposed to put on the waste yarn includes those that I’ve just knitted and are sitting on the needle, how do I get them off onto the waste yarn?
I’m obviously confused and cannot seem to find any visuals or a good explanation anywhere that would show me how to follow these instructions. Would you please help?
Thanks in advance!
Hello Lisa,
Thank you for reaching out! The 13 stitches that you just knit are included in the 26 stitches that you put on scrape yarn. The way that I like to put my stitches on hold is to slide my scrape yarn through the stitches on my needle before sliding them off. The easiest way to do this to use a tapestry needle to pick off each stitch off your needle and onto your scrape yarn.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Thank you very much! This does help.
Lisa
Marilla,
This is confusing me as well…if the first 5 stitches (for a size 32) is included in the set of 10 stitches to place on hold, doesn’t this means half of the “on hold” stitches will have one extra row, creating an uneven row for grafting together with the body later?
Hello Julie,
This is a great question! The row to row measurement is so minute that it will not create any unevenness.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi again,
So I’ve come to a crucial part of the sweater – to frog or to keep going. I’m reaching out as I’d love to keep going but I’m not sure if I’m too far gone in my misunderstanding/ error.
So, I’m at the curved border of the sweater and I’ve finished one side. I believe that the curved portions are done twice – once for the front and once for the back – thus the instructions at the end before the continue body section that says “repeat short rows 2 through 28 once more”. Am I correct?
Say I’m correct, here’s the problem that I’m having. At the end of the first curved bottom i.e. row 29 – knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k75(84, 93, 103,112) wrp-t… is the part where we are to knit to wrap stitch working it with its wrap (before knitting 75 etc) is this the start/ end of the row? Do we see the row marker that indicated the start/end of a row? (please say yes!)
If it is yes, I’m unsure about what the instructions are telling me to do. Where we are told to k75(84, 93, 103,112) wrp-t, isn’t this the other half of the sweater that we are now doing the curved edge for? We were going back and forth with the short rows for the other side and now it’s this side’s turn, yes?
But if that is so, and we are at the start/end of the row as being indicated by the row marker, then where we are supposed to repeat rows 2 through 28 makes it seem as though we are going into the previously worked section that already has the curved edge?
So end of row 29 – k75(84, 93, 103,112) wrp-t (have passed the row marker and am now in the side that now needs the curved hem worked)
Repeat row 2 (wrong side) P38(42,4652,56), wrp-t (okay done)
Repeat row 3: knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3(4,5,5,6), wrp-t.
Now, to me, row 3 puts me back to the stitch marker, meaning that the k3(4,5,5,6), wrp-t will put me in the “done” territory of the first side that I’ve completed the curved bottom for already. Is this right? Shouldn’t I be working solely in the “undone section”? When I worked the first section, I didn’t seem to venture into the other side at all – now that I’m doing the second side, it seems as though I have to knit into the done section?
And if I’m not knitting into the done section, and I’m just wrapping and turning at the end of the row into the undone section, won’t a gap form between the two sections as I knit that will only get longer and longer the more rows I complete? I’m guessing that these two sides have to remain joined so I’m confused all around.
I’d hate to rip out all the work I’ve done already. Would you be able to help? I hope I explained my problem properly and you would keep me from frogging!
Thanks in advance,
Lisa
Hmmmm – I think I may have found the problem. I may have knit to the end of the row where the stitch marker is instead of knitting the 112 stitches. I’ve tinked back to row 29 and have knit 112 stitches and that seems to put me in the middle instead of at the very end by the stitch marker…
Hello Lisa,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct- you are now doing the short row shaping on the other half of the sweater. I’m happy to hear you worked it out! If you come across any more questions just let us know!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I love this sweater pattern but want to know if I can use an icord cast-on for this project. If so, would you suggest a 3 or 4 stitch icord?
Hello Carol,
Thank you for reaching out! You can certainly do an I-cord cast on in place of the hemmed stitch. I would do a 3 stitch.
I happy knitting!
-Marilla
How do you do a cording stitch?
Hello Rebecca,
Thank you for reaching out! The cording stitch is done by using the tip of the right needle to pick up the purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch and place it on left needle, knit the next stitch and the picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
We also have have photos above that help to further explain.
I hope this makes sense, but let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Thank you. For some reason the words makes sense now.
Can you please help me with a question? I’m figuring out a sweater with a short row curve in the back only. It is 88 stitches wide. How do you figure out where the wrap and turn starts and stops to get a curve like you have on your sweater pattern. I get how to wrap and turn but not how you figure out the proportion on a set number of stitches. Do you start half way ? Or three quarters. I can’t find the info anywhere on the web. They only tell you how to figure it out for a bustling. TY
Hi Elaine,
Thanks for writing in! Where you place the short rows for a curved hemline will determine how deep or wide the curve is, but there isn’t a hard and fast rule for where to place the short rows since different knitters will prefer the look of different types of hemlines. Since you are creating your own sweater, you will have to use a bit of trial and error to see what you like! For a double curved hemline like this one, you will want to start the first short rows close to the side seam markers and then move in towards the center by a few stitches each row until you are several inches away from the center for the last short rows. If you find that the curve is getting too deep before you are close to the center, you will need to work your wrap and turns farther apart; or, if you want to add more depth, work them closer together.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am confused about the last row of the sleeve;
Knit 5, place previous 10 stitches on stitch holder.
Does this mean the last 10 stitches of the last row?
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for reaching out! When you place these 10 stitches on a holder, it will be the first five stitches of the current row and the last five stitches of the previous row, so that the beginning of the round will be in the center of these 10 stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Love the sweater! Finished both sleeves and am now fighting with the body part. Can you help me mathematically. I started casting 252 stitches. 1st Row – 84, 2nd Row 42 and when I reachRow 28 I have 98 stitches. Is that correct? Please help. Thank you very much.
Maria
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in! When knitting the body of this sweater, you will always have 252 stitches total on the needle. The section you are referring to is working short rows, so after knitting 84 stitches in the first row, you will work a wrap and turn and then purl 42 stitches. The total number of stitches on the needle, however, will not change. You may find our Wrap + Turn Short Rows Tutorial helpful for this step!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Will try again. Thank you very much.
Maria
Hi,
Loved making this sweater out of cattail silk. What is the best way to block it?
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for writing in – we are so glad you enjoyed our pattern! Cattail Silk can be machine washed and dried and it turns out beautifully without the need for blocking, but if you prefer, you can wet block your sweater by soaking it in cool water and laying it flat to dry, using our schematic as a guide to block the sweater to the correct measurements.
Warmly,
Julianna
Hi,
I’m concerned this might not be quite warm enough (I get cold very easily) . Is there another yarn you’d recommend that’s a little warmer?
Thanks,
Robin
Hi Robin,
Great question! Linen Quill as actually quite warm, due to the high wool and alpaca content, but the sweater is fairly thin. If you prefer, Posy should knit up to the correct gauge but would create a denser, more substantial knitted fabric.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m really excited to knit this sweater, but I have a skein of silk that is only 1000 yards. Will this be enough to make the smallest size, or if not, could you recommend places in the sweater that I can sub in a little bit of other yarn to make up the difference but that won’t look too weird, like cuffs/neckline etc? Thanks!!
Hi and thanks for reaching out! You have nearly enough yarn for the smallest size – it requires 1,070 yards, so you are only short 70 yards! I think you could do just the corded edging on the hem, cuffs, and neckline in another yarn and it would create a lovely detail, while also stretching your yarn just far enough!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi. Thanks for sharing this lovely pullover pattern. I’m making one for myself (size 36) and need your help with the short rows to shape neckline + shoulders.
Short Row 3 says, “knit to last 5 stitches, wrap-t.” My question is: does this “last 5 stitches” include the last wrapped stitch I made on Short Row 1?
First I thought it doesn’t, but then I noticed, if I don’t include the wrapped stitch in “last 5 stitches,” I won’t have enough stitches left for “last 8 stitches” on Short Row 5.
I’m confused..
Hi Ik,
Thanks for writing in! At this point, the beginning and end of your rows will be on either side of the front neck stitches, which have been placed on hold. For Short Rows 1 and 2, you should have knit or purled all the way to the end of the row, working decreases as directed and slipping all the markers in between, and wrapped the last stitch of the row, right next to those held front neck stitches. When working Short Row 3 and 4, you will be working all the way to the last 5 stitches of the row, which does include the previously wrapped stitch, so you should always have plenty of stitches to work the short rows since they are at the very ends of the entire rows.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I have completed the bottom hem shaping and am at the following step:
“Next Short Row: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round”
After working the first wrapped stitch, I will still have 3 wrapped stitches remaining across the entire round. Is that correct? And should I work these wrapped stitches, or knit them as regular stitches?
Hi Jean,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you might have gotten off on your short rows, because you should have only one wrapped stitch left at this point. During each of the short rows, you should have resolved the wrap and turn created in the previous short row, so by the time you get to the end, you only have the one wrap and turn left. If your short rows look even and the curve of the hem is centered, you could knit to the end, knitting each wrapped stitch with its wrap so it doesn’t leave a hole, but if your short rows are off center, I would recommend going back and starting them over.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi. I am really enjoying this pattern and so far things are going really well. I wonder if you might be able to clarify the Raglan Decrease section for me. (Size 36)
I did the 1st Raglan Decrease Round and am ready to go onto the repeats. It says to repeat every round 0 more times, then every other round 27 more times.
Do I knit the 1st with out decreases and then the second with decreases, and so on for a total of 54 rows?
Any help is greatly appreciated. TIA.
Hello Lauren,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, you are absolutely correct. You will knit a round of stockinette and then a decrease round, and so on and so forth.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello Purl Soho
I am beginning the Lightweight Raglan Pullover using your Linen Quill yarn but am having trouble getting gauge.
So far, I have made a swatch IN THE ROUND on #4 bamboo needles. I am getting 23 stitches in 4 inches instead of the 28 asked for.
Is the gauge made in round or on the flat? Perhaps that is the problem. Usually, I am a tightish knitter so I am surprised by this number.
I can try again with #3 metal needles and see how I do.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Margaret
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for reaching out! Our gauge is measured on the finished sweater, which is knit in the round, so you should go by your swatch in the round. It does sound like you need to go down a needle size, but I would suggest double checking your gauge once you have finished a few inches of the first sleeve. It is possible for your gauge swatch to turn out slightly different from your regular knitting as most people tend to be more focused when knitting their swatch.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Would your line weight yarn be suitable for this sweater?
Or is there another sweater pattern that you could suggest for the line weight yarn?
Thank-you
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! While Line Weight would be the right weight for this sweater, we usually don’t recommend Line Weight on its own for adult sweaters. It is supremely soft but also quite delicate, so it can be prone to wear and pilling in high friction areas like the underarms. Instead, I would recommend using Posy for this sweater – it is just as soft, but much sturdier and just right for this pullover!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi there! I love the pattern and I have just completed the two sleeves. I have started knitting the body with the short row hem but it is curling really badly …. what am I doing wrong and anyone else have this issue? Should I take it out and not do the short rows? Would that stop it from curling?
Hi Charmaine,
Thanks for reaching out! The curved hem can roll up, but usually after blocking it will lay quite flat. The effect can also be exaggerated if your sweater is on a circular needle that has a much smaller circumference than the size you are knitting so that the stitches are somewhat scrunched. If you aren’t sure if it will block out, I would suggest putting your stitches on a piece of scrap yarn so your sweater so far can lay completely flat and lightly spray or steam blocking it to see how it will turn out.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
short row question … for light weight raglan pullover…
after first row wrap-t. and purl back 38 wrp-t on and continuing on the first side I’m am getting a very short curve, what am I doing wrong?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! For this lovely sweater, you will work one side of the sweater at a time, working the front curve first and then the back curve. With the short rows, you will start by working over a smaller number of stitches and then work over more and more as you continue to create the pleasing curve of the bottom of the sweater. It sounds like you are working things correctly and know that the curve will be longer at each short row!
Best,
Cassy
To clarify on the raglan decrease: I am making the small size so after doing the first set of decreases I then decrease every other round 23 times for a total of 46 rows?
HI Peggy,
Thanks for reaching out! For the size 32, you will work the first set of decreases and then decrease every other round 23 times. This section where you repeat the decrease round every other round 23 times will be a total of 46 rounds!
Best,
Cassy
Hi All, for some reason I cannot seem to post my own comment for a question so I am
Asking in a reply.
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times. [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) stitches]
Where is says 0, does that mean every round?
Also, would sweetgrass be good for this pattern? Thank you!
Hi Taylor,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulty with our comment section!
When there is a 0 in place for your size, that means you will not be working that repeat. So for that row for example, you will be repeating the increase round every 6th round 18 times and then you will skip the rest of that section of instructions and go directly onto the next row since there are zeros in place of your size!
Also- in response to your other question, Yes! Sweetgrass would be a great option for this pullover! They are the same weight but I always recommend double checking your gauge when using a yarn different than what the pattern calls for to insure you are consistent!
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you!
Hi, I just finished the sweater. It was fun to knit, however, the body of the sweater is twisted: the curved bottom edges are not in the front when I put the sweater on, but to the side. Did I do something wrong? Can it be fixed?
Hi Anya,
Oh no, it sounds like you might have missed a half row right after finishing the short rows at the hem of the sweater! Unfortunately the only way to fix this issue would be to unravel and start over completely, or to cut off the hem. It sounds scary, but I would probably try removing and re-knitting the hem. To do so, you will start by cutting one stitch in the row just above the short rows, and then unpick that row of knitting stitch by stitch, placing the live stitches from the sweater back on your needle as you go. If you don’t mind omitting the curved hems, the easiest thing to do at that point would be to work the cording stitch and cast off, or you could try to reverse the short rows, which might take a bit of trial and error.
I hope that helps, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Thank you for your reply Julianna, you are always a great help! I blocked it and it fixed it! I retraces my steps and checked for missing short rows, everything was in place. Unfortunately i have to unravel it anyway because my sleeves and torso are too short for my liking. I don’t mind it though. I really learned a lot about sweater construction knitting it. And I am ready to do it again!
Hi, would 550 gr of a 51/49 Merino/silk yarn (1650 yards) be too heavy for this pattern?! I also worry whether it would be enough for the 40 or 44 model? Thanks!
Hi Dagmar,
Thanks for writing in! Based on the yardage per 100 grams, it does sound like your yarn is thicker than the yarns that we have used to make this lovely sweater. Your yarn has about 300 yards per 100 grams and Linen Quill has 439 yards per 100 grams and I think that it could be a bit too thick. However, I would suggest working up a gauge swatch and if you like the fabric at the noted gauge for this sweater, then you could certainly use it!
As to yardage, we used approximately 1365 yards for the size 40 and 1555 yards for the size 44 so if the yarn does work, you should be all set on yardage!
Best,
Cassy
Thanks, Cassy, that is very helpful. I have another stash of 500 g (5 skeins of 100 g / 400 yards each) of 70 % Merino with 20 % Cashmere and 10 % Nylon. It is still about 10% thicker than your yarn linen quill, but much closer than the Merino/silk mix. Again, many thanks for the helpful response.
Cheers, Dagmar
Hi, I guess my question is whether the second yarn might be suitable for this sweater is terms of piling etc. Thanks again.
Hi Dagmar,
Thanks for reaching out! There are lots of factors that go into whether a yarn will pill or be suitable for a sweater besides just the fiber content, so it’s really hard to say. There are many variations of merino, cashmere, and nylon blends, like our Posy, that are great for sweaters! The best way to find out would be to knit up a swatch and see how the fabric feels!
Best,
Julianna
Sigh. If things weren’t the way they are now, I might shed a few thug tears. I’ve gotten to the part where we separate for the front and the back. I have 26 stitches on stitch holders on each side for my arms and 142 stitches for one side. When I counted up the second side, I only have 107 stitches. I’m not sure how it happened as I’m pretty meticulous with stitch count even putting markers every 20 stitches if it’s a really tricky pattern… but alas, here I am, wondering if there is any way to save this without frogging back. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! Are you about to start the Shape Neckline + Shoulders section of the pattern? Unfortunately it does sound like you need to start the raglan shaping again if that is the case, since your stitch counts for both the front and back are quite far off. After completing the raglan decreases, the two largest sizes will have 26 stitches left for each sleeve, but only 62 or 64 stitches for the front and back.
Best,
Julianna
Thanks for replying.
I am a beginner knitter and am going to try out this pattern. I am a little intimidated by the double pointed needles. Is there any way to use circular needles for the sleeves? And if so, what kind and size would I use if using the linen quill yarn? Thanks!
Hi Emmaly,
Thanks for your question! There are a couple of options if you want to avoid double pointed needles. One is Addi Easy Knit needles, which are designed for knitting in small circumferences. There’s also the Magic Loop technique, which uses a longer length cord to work small circumferences. In either case, you’d use the same size needle as you use for the body of the sweater – the recommended needle size is US4. Happy Knitting!
Best,
Cassandra
Sorry, this might be a silly question, but how do I know whether to use a circular needle size 4 with a 32 or 40 inch cord? Which sweater size goes with the length? Thanks!
Hi Emmaly –
Thanks for reaching out! The two smallest sizes can be knit on the 32″ length needle, while the two largest sizes would probably be more comfortable with a 40″ cord. The 40 inch size would probably work with either one – most people don’t enjoy having their stitches too squashed together on a too-small needle. Hope this helps – happy knitting!
Best,
Cassandra
I’m relatively new to knitting, so please forgive any knowledge gaps!!! I’m using Linen Quill in Rose Granite which is gorgeous. I’ve done the sleeves and am currently working on the body. Here are my two issues:
1. In spite of the hem design, I have a very significant roll on the body. (the sleeves are fine) Will it relax after blocking? The photo shows a flat hem.
2. The stitches on the sleeves (w/ DPNs) don’t look as clean and tidy as the body (circular) Will they tighten up with blocking?
thanks so much.
Hi Grace,
Thank you for writing in! I’m glad to hear you’re enjoying knitting this raglan in Linen Quill; this is one of our favorite yarns! It sounds like both of your questions are regarding the tension and look of the stitches and edges of your piece. Not to worry, blocking should take care of most of these types of issues- I love our new tutorial for hand washing a sweater as a blocking guide.
As you continue knitting sweaters, if you notice a significant difference in your gauge or stitch quality when switching to DPNs, there are a few things you can do to remedy these kinds of issues. You might want to purchase circular needles in a smaller length specifically for knitting sleeves, or size up/down your DPNs when working on smaller circumferences. For example, I find my gauge to be a bit tighter on DPNs so occasionally I use a larger size needle on my sleeves. You also may not have any issues like this, but please always feel free to reach out with questions!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Thanks Gaby! I just finished blocking (I never fail to be amazed at the instant transformation knitting makes when dunked in water) and it looks beautiful. This simple sweater was a real learning experience. I ripped the Wrp-t for the body back to the cording stitch, as well as the raglan to the point of sleeve attachment because i did them both incorrectly. Once i figured out what went wrong, it was a light was switched on.
The gauge was right and the measurements all matched up with the pattern, but it’s about 1 size too big. (i used size 32 but am quite small) In hindsight I probably should have used a size 3 needle, but how would i know that at the start?
I think i’ll try shortening the sleeves by matching the cording pattern one more time with a crochet hook or needle.
Thanks for a great pattern and new skills!
Hi! I’ve just finished this pattern using the Linen Quill and everything looks great except the bottom hems are curling up a lot. Is this something that can be fixed by blocking, or do you have any other tips you could recommend to flatten it out a bit?
Thanks so much!!
Catherine
Hi Catherine,
Thank you for writing in! Congratulations on finishing your pullover! Not to worry, blocking should take care of any curling of the hems. A quick hand wash also doubles as a nice first block!
Best,
Gaby
Thanks, Gaby!
I just finished knittng your pullover. Some challenges on the way but I overcome them aldo having learnt some new tricks. Need to do some finishing touches (had to knit sleeves as flat piece as didnt have right DPNs) but already looking forward to wearing it. Thanks for the pattern.
Hi Agnieska –
So glad to hear that you had a great time with the project and pattern! Happy Knitting!
Best,
Cassandra
Hi, I am a beginner knitter and have been given a big bag of 4 ply fingering weight wool. This looks to be the best pattern I’ve seen. Is my yarn suitable and how easy will it be for a beginner.
Thank you. Lola
Hi Lola,
Thanks for reaching out! Most fingering weight yarns will work well for this sweater, but the best way to find out if yours is a match is to knit a gauge swatch and see how it turns out! This pattern is fairly straightforward, and we are always here to help if you have any questions!
Best,
Julianna
Too bad this isn’t a top down pattern because I can’t do wrap and turn I’ve tried it so many times and it never works out
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for writing! I’m so sorry to hear that you’ve had some frustration with wrap + turn. We do have a video tutorial on our site for the technique, here – . Hope this helps a little!
Best,
Cassandra
Hi, Could I use Artesano Alpaca 4ply Yarn for this? I’m a UK knitter so find it hard to do the conversions. Wish someone would create an App for that!
Hi Tania!
Thanks for asking about this (and yes, it is sometimes really hard to go by yarn descriptions, as they vary so much)! I’m not familiar with the yarn you mention, but it looks like the needle size recommendations and gauge are about the same as what we used for the Lightweight Raglan Pullover. I would definitely suggest swatching with it to see if you like the fabric at the recommended gauge of 28 stitches and 33 rows over 4 inches. I hope this helps!
Best,
Cassandra
I would like to make this with Unger Plantation and whatever available wool would go with it for a striped sweater. Do you think this sweater would be good with that yarn? What do you suggest as a comparable yarn for the stripes? (I don’t have enough of the Unger for the whole sweater.)
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately your yarn is significantly thicker than the fingering weight yarn we used for this sweater, so I’m afraid it won’t be suitable for this pattern – I’m so sorry about that! Instead, I would recommend a pattern written for a worsted weight yarn, such as our Purl Soho Pullover. If you need to add another yarn for stripes, our Worsted Twist should be a good match!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Any suggestions for how to do skinny stripes? I have a cream colored yarn and dark green for the stripes but not sure how far apart to space the stripes. Thanks!!
Hi Em
That’s a great question! The difficulty in adding stripes to this sweater is the number of short rows and creating stripes in short rows is very challenging. The best way to add stripes would be in the sections without short rows (the sleeves and body above the bottom and below the short rows) I would recommend between 2-4 row stripes, so the yarn can be carried loosely up without cutting. We have a great tutorial here for stripes in the round. I hope that this helps!
Happy Knitting!
Jessica
Hello: I am using the Cattail Silk, third size in the parentheses, size 4. I would like to make the length of the body a couple inches longer. Where in the pattern would I add the extra two inches? Also, the picture of the sleeves look like there is a seem joining the sides together. They are knit in the round, so should not have seems. Is it just the photo?
Thanks for helping. Hope we can get the Irvine warehouse open soon.
Sincerely,
Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! It’s quite easy to lengthen the body of this sweater! In the “Continue Body” section, you will simply keep knitting until the body of the sweater is as long as you would like it to be. The sleeves are indeed knit in the round, so I think the illusion you are seeing is just a slight crease from blocking the sample!
I hope that clears things up, and we’re looking forward to having everyone back in person when we can!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you Julianna. It is so nice to get replies. Thank you for your help. It is much appreciated. I have 3 skeins of the Cttail Slk. There should be about 400 yds left if I follow the pattern exactly. Do you think the 400 yds will cover another 2 to 3 inches in length? I am thinking of putting a salvage thread through the fourth row so I can see where to pick up the purl bumps. So, is the fourth row from the cast on edge the correct row for the salvage thread?
This is the first garment I will be making for myself. I have made a cap-sleeve top for my daughter. Armholes, wrap and turns and necklines are tricky. Hope I get through this without bugging you much. I will be using invisible wrap & turns on the short rows. No problem with those right (same number of stitches)?
Thanks,
Susan
Hi Susan,
Yes, I think 400 yards should be plenty to add a few extra inches! If you would like to make absolutely sure, once you are past the curved hem, you can weigh your yarn using a kitchen scale, knit two to three inches, then weigh your yarn again. 400 yards in Cattail Silk weighs about 64 grams, so as long as you use less yarn than that for your test, you should have enough yarn for your planned length. If you would like to use a lifeline or scrap yarn to assist with the cording stitch, then yes, you will run your scrap yarn through all the stitches on the needle after knitting the fourth row.
I’m not familiar with invisible wrap & turns so I’m not quite sure if they substitute for regular wrap and turns, but you can review our Short Rows: Wrap & Turn tutorial to see how they differ from your method. We’re always here to make sure your sweater turns out just right, so don’t hesitate to reach out if you have more questions!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you again. I am a little more than half way through the right sleeve. Will reach out if I need you again.
Sincerely,
Susan
Hello,
I am in the shaping Raglan section of the pullover (size 40). I would like the make the neckline a little small and closer to the neck.
Do you have any suggestions as to how I should deviate from the pattern?
Thanks 🙂
Jess
Hi Jess,
Thanks for writing in! You should be able to simply continue repeating the raglan decrease rows until the neckline is the size you would like it to be, or you could add a ribbed collar to pull things in a little more! Either way, I would recommend binding off loosely or using a stretchy bind off to make sure the smaller neck opening will still fit comfortably over your head. We don’t have a tutorial for these bind offs, unfortunately, but a decrease bind off or Jenny’s Suprisingly Stretchy Bind Off should work well!
Best,
Julianna
Hi!
This is my first sweater, and so far, so good! I don’t understand joining sleeves to the body: “Round 1: With the working yarn from the Body, knit….80….. Left Sleeve stitches onto Body’s circular needles, [Q: What is the reference for “Left Sleeve” — the wearer, or the knitter viewing the sweater on someone else? Q: what part of the sleeve should I join to the body?] pm, knit…112…Front stitches [Q: Does ‘Front” stitch refer to the front of the sleeve/sweater OR a specific type of stitch?] , pm….”
Thanks!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for writing in! I think you might find our Joining Sleeves to Body tutorial, which demonstrates the basics of the joining round in a bottom-up sweater, quite helpful! Whenever a knitting pattern refers to the left and right or back and front of a sweater, it is referring to those parts as if you were wearing the sweater, so the left sleeve is the sleeve that will be on your left arm when it is finished, and the front stitches are the stitches that will be on the front or chest of the sweater.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Julianna
I found the wonderful tutorial shortly after I e-mailed you all. Yay! That did the trick! Thanks so much for the quick reply — much appreciated given y/our collective experience. Be well Purl SoHo friends!
I’ve been scrolling through the questions, looking for an answer to this. I’m at the Body Decrease Round and the Raglan Decrease Round, after having knit a full round following joining the sleeves. The part that is confusing is this: The Body Decrease Round directions indicate […..ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]” The Raglan Decrease Round has similar language: “4 times [8 stitches decreased].”
What does the “2 times” refer to? The sequence should be completed twice — once for each sleeve — in a single round?
Thanks!
Hi Lisa
Thanks for reaching out! The body decrease round is [Knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased] The brackets are indicating your repeat, so you will complete this entire sequence 2x, and will have completed an entire round. The stitches you will be decreasing are part of the body, and check the total remaining stitches when you complete this direction. Similar directions are given for the Raglan Decrease Round, where you will be repeating the bracketed directions 4x. I hope this clears it up!
Happy knitting
Jessica
YES! That’s kind of how I was interpreting the directions based on the stitches decreased. You ROCK, Jessica! Thanks a bunch!
Hello again. I have made it through the sleeves and am working on shaping the bottom of the body. I started with 308 stitches. Lost count on wrap and turn rows. I counted the rows. My question is , after the wrap and turn rows will I be back at the beginning of round marker at the end of row 28 or will there be stitches on each side that are not included in wrap and turn rows?
Hi Susan
Thanks for reaching out! There is only one marker on your sweater for the beginning of the round, and the first time you work rows 1-28 you are working one side of short rows (front or back curve of the sweater), and the second time will be the other side of the sweater. Row 29 should end with half the number of sweater stitches, exactly across from the beginning of the round marker. After this you will repeat rows 2-28 once more creating the same as before. I hope this helps explain it and happy knitting!
Jessica
Thank you Jessica. I must be doing the math wrong. I have 308 stitches to start, one half is 154 stitches. I Knit 103 and follow the wrap and turn rows through rows 28 and still have a couple of stitches left. I have tried adding the additional stitches up that are at the end of the the wrap and turn rows and add that number to 103, but do not come up with 154. I had tried to repair a wrap and lost that stitch, didn’t know how to redo that, decided to think out the row, lost the wrap going in the other direction…. I will rip it out and do it again. Would love to see a video on how to undo a wrap that was made on the previous row so it isn’t lost if you have to undo a row for any reason.
Thanks again for the help. So nice that you all do that. ?
Susan
Hi Susan
I am sorry that you are having trouble with this. It may help you to put a lifeline in before you start the wrap and turns, in case you need to rip back. When tinking back a wrap and turn row, just proceed really slowly when getting close to the wrap and turn, pause when the wrap and turn is the last stitch on your needle, slide it to the opposite needle and unwrap it, slide it back to the previous needle and tink the next row. Unfortunately, we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this, but I will pass this request on to our team. Hope you can get it worked out!
Best
Jessica
Hi! I have knitted several fairly simple pieces and chose to challenge myself with the lightweight raglan pullover. I have a question on the sleeve directions. After completing the cast on and 8 rounds of the stockinette stitch, the next round states “Work Cording Stitch”. Stupid question but is the “cording stitch” the same as the I-Cord? I watched several tutorials on I-Cord (which is all that I could find) however the directions appear different than the raglan pullover directions. Would you please provide a few additional details on the cording stitch section?
Thanks!
Sue
Hi Sue,
Thanks for writing in! The cording stitch we use for the edges of this pullover is very different from an I-Cord, and although we don’t have a tutorial demonstrating it, the technique is quite similar to a Knit Hem! The only difference is that, instead of picking up stitches from the cast on edge, you will count down four rows to find the correct purl bump to pick up.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Continuing the discussion of the cord edge ….. Looking on the wrong side of your work (the purl side), is the first row (of 4) the row currently on the needle, or one row down? In other words, when you are counting down four rows, do you include the row on the needle?
Hi Allison,
Great question! The stitches on the needle should not be included when you are counting your rows for this step. The first row you will count will be the purl bumps directly under the needle.
Best,
Julianna
I’m on the raglan shaping section and I don’t understand the decreases – in the image, it looks like there are four decreases on each sleeve (one outside, two inside, and another on the other end), so wouldn’t that make it a decrease of 8 each time? The instructions say decrease of 4/row – what am I missing?
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! For the first few rounds of the raglan, you will be decreasing on the sleeves only, and will be decreasing two stitches per sleeve, one at the right edge and one at the left edge of the sleeve stitches, for a total of four stitches per round. After working this round the indicated number of times for your size, you will then either work a few rounds decreasing on the body only if you are making size 44 or 48, or for all the other sizes, proceed to the section titled “For All Sizes.” At that point you will begin decreasing 8 stitches per round – two stitches each on the front, the back, and both sleeves. Although you will still only be decreasing two stitches per sleeve, those decreases along with the body decreases will create the columns of paired decreases you can see in our pictures.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi!
Yikes! I clearly misunderstood these directions: “Raglan Decrease Round: [….] Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Raglan Decrease Round every round 0 (0, 2, 4, 6) more times, then every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) more times. [156 (160, 168, 176, 180) stitches: 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) stitches for each Front and Back, 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]”
I’m currently knitting the 24th of 27 alternating decrease rounds. I counted the stitches on front, back, and sleeves and my stitch count is waaaaayyyyy off. I should have 54 stitches for each front and back; 24 stitches for each sleeve. Instead, I have about the right amount of stitches for the sleeves (23 & 26), but the front and back are both 123 stitches! It seems I made the decrease stitches only on the sleeves and not on the front and back…. what do you think? I’d like to make this sweater again and need to understand what I misinterpreted/did. what do you advise I do at this point?
Thanks friends!
Hi Lisa,
Oh dear, it does sound like something has gotten off! It sounds like you are knitting the fourth size which started with 132 stitches each for the front and back, so you did decrease a few times. I think you correctly followed the instructions for the Body Decrease Round, which would have gotten the front and back to 126 stitches, but at some point stopped decreasing on the front and back. I would suggest going all the way back to the beginning of the yoke, right after joining the sleeves and body together, so you can get back on track! Just keep in mind that, while doing the Raglan Decrease Round, you should be decreasing in every section of the sweater, and check your stitch counts occasionally to make sure you don’t miss any!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thanks Julianna,
I decided to tear out the work and start over before I got your reply (I know you all are swamped and doing your best to keep up!). I read all the “replies” to questions about the Raglan Decrease, and found answers that explained what I’d misunderstood. Finger crossed!
Hi there,
I’m about half way through the body, and I’m noticing that my edge is curling A LOT. Is there anything I can do? It doesn’t seem like it was a problem with the sample, unless blocking performed some magic.
Should I still measure the 14 inches of the body with the piece pulled flat, or should I take the curl into account when taking that measurement?
Thanks!
Betsy
Hi Betsy,
Thanks for writing in! I know the curling is discouraging, but it is completely natural for knitted fabric to curl before it has been blocked. Blocking helps the stitches settle into place, and you will see the rolled edge have magically flattened.
When you’re measuring your work, do your best to lay it flat.
I hope this helps!
Oscar
Would you please help us (produce a video on how to) eliminate the gap created when you join the sleeves to the body of the sweater? Love this pattern but don’t like the ‘holes’ created at these intersections.
Thank you,
Sue
Hi Sue,
Thanks for writing in! It is actually completely normal and expected to have holes in the underarms when knitting seamless sweaters! There isn’t really a fix to eliminate them while you are knitting, but you can use the yarn tail from joining the sleeves to close up these holes while you are weaving in your ends.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Victory! I just finished the Raglan Pullover — my first sweater ever! — and couldn’t be happier. The fit initially seemed a little too small for me, but blocking the sweater seemed to lengthen the sleeves and body without stretching them out, and hid most of my beginner stitches and corrections. I used a merino yarn that seems to have worked out. Lastly and most importantly, I’m so thankful for the compassionate and responsive support from you all at Purl Soho for helping me, and other beginners, achieve this important knitters’ right of passage! Thank you SO much!
Hi there!, I´m currently knitting this sweater, but right now are really stuck in the SHAPE NECKLINE + SHOULDERS part. I´ve made short rows before, not many times, but I can manage, but I don´t understand the Set-Up Round, ando how should I join yarn to Right Front Stiches….
Thank you very much in advanced and thank you again for your wonderful patterns.
Hi Marta,
I hope I can clear this up for you! At the beginning of this section, the beginning of the round is at the end of the back stitches and beginning of the front stitches. Once you have completed the round that includes placing the front neck stitches on hold, you will cut your yarn and slip your stitches around the needle without working them until you are at the on-hold stitches. Now, the Right Front stitches next to the on-hold stitches should be on your left-hand needle, so you can insert your left-hand needle into the first Right Front stitch and begin knitting by simply looping your yarn over the needle, just as you would if you were joining a new ball of yarn or color at the edge of a row!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Measuring my chest circumference I was approximately 39-40 inches. Wasn’t sure if I should plan to follow the pattern for the 40 or 44”. I want the sweater to be relaxed with drape effect but not overwhelming. Ordering the linen quill and would like to add approximately 3 extra inches to the body of the sweater. Would 4 skeins be sufficient? Thanks!
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for writing in! It can be confusing to choose a size when you are right between two sizes! If you go with the smaller size, you will have zero to 1 inch of positive ease, which will look somewhat form fitting. The larger size will result in about 4 to 5 inches of positive ease, which should look more like the sweater on our model, which is worn with 3 inches of positive ease. Another way to decide which size to make is to measure a sweater that you already own and enjoy wearing, no matter whether it is hand made or store bought. You can then compare the chest measurement of that sweater to our finished measurements to choose whichever one is most similar. You should have plenty of extra yarn to lengthen the body by three inches, no matter which size you end up knitting!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m nearing the end of this sweater and have a question about the instructions. I’m in the “Shape Neckline + Shoulders” section and am working on “Short Row 1”. After joining the yarn and doing another decrease row, it says:
“… knit to last stitch, wrp-t”.
If I have knit to the last stitch, there are no stitches left on my left needle with which to “wrp-t”. Should the instructions say instead just “turn work”? Same instructions are on Short Row 2 where you “Purl to last stitch, wrp-t” with no stitches left. Same, just “turn work”? Or is there a way to “wrap and turn” without a stitch on the left hand needle?
Hi Janice,
Thank you for reaching out! The pattern is actually correct, you knit to the last stitch (leaving the last stitch un-knit) and that is where you preform the wrp-t. So there should be one stitch left at the end of the row that is the one that gets wrapped! Same goes for the purl side.
Hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Ah, yes I suppose it could be read that way too 🙂 Thank you!
I am stuck at Short Row 9 in the neckline shaping instructions. Previous decrease rows have you decrease at sleeve edge four times, thus making a full trip around the sweater to the edges of the neck front. But at Short Row 9, the sleeve edge decrease is only done three times, then the wrap and turn before the fourth marker. Are you changing to wrap-and-turn in the middle of sleeves?
Hi Allison,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you will be turning the work part way through each row rather than continuing to the end of the row working back and forth in the short rows. This creates that classic Raglan sleeve design!
I hope this helps and feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Gianna
Hello! I have just finished the cording for the lower hem of the sweater. Having difficulty understanding and executing the short rows that follow. I have watched the tutorial numerous times but am still confused . I am making size 44 . I knit 103 st from the marker(beginning of round), then wrp-t on st 104. Row 2, purled 52 st and wrap-t on st 51. Now on row 3 , I knit to wrapped st (st 104), pick up wrapped st, k 5 st wrap-t on st 110 and then turn…I noticed gaps between the stitches when I completed a short row and that my rows are getting longer rather than shorter! Can you try to help me sort this out? Am I off on which stitches I should be wrapping and turning? Thanks so much! As you can tell I am quite confused!
Hi Debbie,
Thanks so much for reaching out! I would love to help you out with this! Please send a photo of your work to our email: [email protected] and we can trouble shoot from there!
All the best,
Gianna
I think I have worked through my short rows challenge and am knitting the body of the sweater. A few extra steps allowed me to conquer my difficulties and thought it might assist some other novice knitter such as myself. First I wrote out each of the 29 rows, indicating which stitch was the wrap and turn stitch and which stitch was to be picked up. I also placed a marker every 50 stitches so I could ensure that I was following the pattern correctly. Yes it did take longer but the end result was worth it. Thanks as always for your support. I’m sure I‘ll be reaching out to you again before I complete the sweater.
Hi there,
I’m having a bit of difficulty “wrapping” my head around shaping the bottom edges of the body and understanding the short rows for pattern size 40.
When directions say “work work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k/p x,” are we supposed to work x+1 stitches total, or is working the wrapped stitch included in x, so k/p x-1 after working wrapped stitch? I can’t conclude the proper continuation technique from the short row tutorial.
Also, by row 28, should size 40 have 140 worked stitches from start of round, half of the total stitches to “reset” to 0 and start shaping the back?
Clearly I’m having a bit of difficulty with the math here! I hope I’ve articulated this accurately…any help would be appreciated!
Hi Olivia,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! For each of the short rows you either knit or purl to the wrapped stitch, and like we show in the tutorial, you knit or purl the wrapped stitch together with its paired wrap and then work how ever many stitches we list in the parentheses after that! so for example, in Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap (1 stitch), k5 wrp-t!
For Size 40 by the end of the short rows for the CONTINUE BODY section you will be working across all of the stitches on your needles untill the body measures 14 1/2″ from the cast on edge!
I hope this clarifies things for you, but please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi. Can you explain “sm – slip marker” direction please? I am using a plastic marker and presume this means just to bypass it? Thanks for your help. I love the sweater’s design. I am an experienced knitter but have found the directions challenging! Kind regards, Sue.
Hi Sue,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, when we say sm or slip marker it just means to bypass the maker and move it from one needle to the next as you are working the round!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi, I’m totally frustrated.
I’ve almost finished the sweater, but I’m struggling with the final wrt stitches. I’ve pulled out and done it a second time and the same thing happened. On the side where the wrt was done on the knit side I was able to pick up and knit the wrap eliminating any holes, but on the other side/ right side of the front the wrt stitches were created on the purl side and when I came to pick up and knit the wraps with the stitch on the right/knit side of the fabric they created holes..HELP, what am I doing wrong?
Hi Vanessa,
Thanks for reaching out! I am not sure what could be causing this, if you send us a photo of your work to our email [email protected] we can troubleshoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
Loving this sweater pattern, but I’m stuck at the Raglan Decrease Round. The Body Decrease round made sense to me, but I’m curious on how the Raglan decrease differs and is repeated four times instead of twice. This is probably a silly question, but I’ve been puzzling over it for a bit. Thank you!
Hi Kristina,
Thanks for reaching out! The decreases for the sleeve are more dramatic than the body shaping since it is a smaller area and that is why you are repeating it more than in the body section!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello! I just finished working the short rows for the bottom of the body. I tried following the “Short Rows Tutorial”; however, there’s still a big hole between the two sections of short rows (front and back of the final product). Can someone help me figure out where I went wrong? Thanks!
Hi Shannon,
Thanks for reaching out! It is likely that you are not working the stitches with their wraps correctly which would leave behind holes.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, Shannon! Did you figure out the solution to the “hole” problem? I’m encountering the same issue and have quadruple checked that I followed the Purl Soho video correctly.
Hi and thank you! I’m making the lightweight raglan pullover in a cashmere fingering. Never made such a complex pattern, or worked in a fingering yarn, but it has been so much fun! Learning lots of new techniques and can’t wait to see how it turns out!
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you are enjoying this pattern and please let us know how it turns out!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi. I have reached the yoke/join in sleeves. I am using an 80cm circular needle. I cannot get past adding the first sleeve because the work is too tight. Do I need to use al longer needle or is there something else going wrong. Thanks.
Hi Sue,
Thanks for reaching out! For this Pullover we recommend using a 32″ or 40″ circular needle depending on the size you are making, so if you are having problems fitting the stitches on the 32″ then you should definitely go up to a 40″ circular needles!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello! When I completed the short rows for the body, I had holes when working over the purl side wraps. I saw that other commenters had this problem, but I still couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong. I have re-watched the video multiple times and am working it correctly.
I made up a solution to fix the body holes, but am now ready to begin the neck short rows. Is there anything that could possibly be missing from the short row videos/instructions that would help me avoid holes? Is there a different short row method that might be better for me?
Thank you!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! When you work over the wrap and turn you will need to pick up the wrap and knit it with its paired stitch in order to close up the holes. My best guess is that you may have missed picking up the wrap which is why you are coming out with a lot of holes!
I hope this helps, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Gianna,
Thanks for your response! I actually found out that when picking up the wrap and adding it beside the first loop, it wasn’t twisting correctly. I had to add my own step of twisting the wrap into the right direction before slipping and knitting together.
I am at the shaping neckline/ shoulders section size 34.
A) the 20 stitches on hold currently include a portion of the sleeve stitches, is that correct?
B) slipping stitches from left to right needle did not set me up next to on hold stitches, I didn’t even make it across to slip the next marker. Should I have been slipping from right to left instead?
Oooooooh! I think my end of round marker may have been ay the wrong point. I have it at my right back shoulder/ sleeve. Should it be on my left back shoulder/ sleeve?
Hi Mandy,
Thanks for reaching out! You should have removed the end of round marker when you separated the stitches for the front and back. Then for the YOKE JOIN SLEEVES section, Round 1 you will knit 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) Left Sleeve stitches onto Body’s circular needles, place marker, knit 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) Front stitches, place marker, slip on-hold Right Sleeve stitches onto spare needles and then knit those 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) stitches onto Body’s circular needles, place marker, knit 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) Back stitches, then you will place the unique marker for end-of-round. [356 (384, 416, 444, 476) stitches: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) stitches for each Front and Back, 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) stitches for each Sleeve. This end of round marker should be located at the left back shoulder!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Please explain directions : knit 5 stitches then place previous 10 stitches on holder .
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! In this section of the pattern, you’ll knit the first 5 stitches then turn your work so the wrong side is facing you. Now, the 5 stitches you’ve just worked are on your left-hand needle. Take your stitch holder and slip 5 stitches from the left-hand needle onto it, remove the beginning of round marker, then slip the next five stitches on the holder. You should now have 10 stitches on your holder (five stitches from either side of the beginning of round marker).
I hope this helps clear things up, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi Kelsey
Thank you so much. That did the trick. This is my second purlsoho sweater and I am impressed by the help ya’ll give each time . I am sure I will be checking in again when I get to the next part.
Hi~ there! It’s so beautiful sweater and this is my first sweater. I have some problem here~ so help me!! I’ve done with the right sleeve parts just before make 14 stitch on stitch holder. After that, how do I knit to the end? Or it’s just ok to let it place on scrap yarn. Or do I need to purl the other 80 stitches backward? Thanks again. Waiting for your help.
Hi Kelsey~
Actually I found the answer from upper comment!!! That’s really tricky. I’m just done with my right sleeve!
Thank you.
Carra
Hi Carra,
Thanks for reaching out! So basically you will cut your working yarn when you put the 14 stitches on the stitch holder or scrap yarn and then you will re attach the yarn to continue knitting the 80 stitches!
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello! I am knitting the second smallest size, the 36″ chest circumference. I’m quite petite, but with a larger bust, about 35″. I knit up the first sleeve and it was much too large on my arms! If I knit the smallest size instead, would I be able to add some room in the body to accommodate my chest? Can I knit the smallest size arms and the second smallest size body? I am using the Purl Soho Linen Quil wool. It’s lovely! My gauge seems to be correct so it’s more of a body measurements issue.
Hi Maisie,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could certainly knit the smallest size, but add in additional increases around the bust (following the increases fir the 2nd size) or you could make the body of the 2nd size and follow the sleeves for the smallest size! Just be sure to keep in mind that your stitch counts will be a bit different when you reach the YOKE section and the JOIN SLEEVES section!
I hope this helps and please let me know how this turns out and if you have any additional questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I also had this question about knitting a smaller size for arms and one size larger for body! How do you resolve the stitch count difference when getting to the yoke and join sleeves sections?? Since the stitches on the sleeve and body underarm holders will not match, do you reduce on the body underarm join?
This is my first bottom-up sweater, so maybe I’m just not picturing the logic until I get to this point in the directions.
Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing in! Since making a different size sleeve from the body is a bit unconventional, there isn’t an exact science for getting the pieces to match up correctly. However, since this is a raglan sleeve there is a bit of room for tweaking things! The most important part is making sure you have the same amount of stitches, matching the body, for the underarm. So as long as you have the same amount of stitches on hold for each underarm, you should be okay going into the raglan section, and you can then follow the instructions for either size accordingly depending on the overall fit you desire!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hi! I am doing the shortrowspart. The first time i noticed that my rows were not centered cuz it went two stitches past the marker for it being in the round. It seemed wrong so i unwound it to the beginning and tried again. Now, part way through, I checked the stitches to the beginning and middle marker and there is a difference of 26 on one side and 28 on the other. Is the different of two intentional?
Hi there,
I have come to the part where I have to separate the front and the back. I’m not sure how to do this or where to start? If I take the 22 stitches and put them on the place holder… how to I keep knitting the rest of the row on the body? How do I continue through the rest of the stitches on the row without cutting the wool and using a second pair of needles? Sorry if this is really confusing!
Hi Becky,
Thanks for reaching out! There is no need to cut the yarn or use an extra set of needles since all of the stitches will be knit before going on the stitch holders! Keep in mind the work Previous will come up, this means you are knitting past the stitches first and then placing the stitch on the holder.
So you will begin by knitting 5 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches, you will then place the previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Underarm, these stitches will go pas the end of round marker so you will be removing that when you put the stitches on hold. You will then continue knitting 112 (126, 140, 154, 168) stitches from where you left off. Then you will again place the previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) stitches on the stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm. The yarn will again be waiting for your to continue knitting, so you will finish the round by knitting until you reach the Left Underarm (next stitch holder). [204 (224, 244, 264, 284) stitches remain: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) stitches for each Front and Back]
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Do you think it would look ok if I skipped the corded edges and allowed the sleeves and neckline to ‘roll’?
Hi Judy,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you could certainly skip the edging if you would like to have a rolled edge instead! I think that would be a pretty look for this pullover!
Happy knitting!
Gianna