A circular raglan pullover is a wonderfully empowering thing for first-time sweater knitters. Creating one is like receiving a decoder ring for sweater-making. It unlocks secret geometries and makes simple sense of what is, after all, a pretty complicated garment.
Who knew you could knit three tubes (i.e. 2 sleeves and a body) and then join them together into a larger tube (i.e. a yoke)!?! From there, regular “raglan” decreases shape the shoulders, from the underarms to the neckline. And in our Lightweight Raglan Pullover, subtle details, like cording stitch edges and short row shaping, give beginners a good challenge and keep experts interested.
Purl Soho’s Linen Quill effortlessly elevates this simple sweater into something truly special. Its blend of wool, alpaca, and linen gives the Lightweight Raglan Pullover a soft bloom, a beautiful drape, and a unique look.
Whether this is your first sweater or your hundredth, I hope you enjoy the magic. No matter how many new tricks I learn, I turn to this intuitive construction method time and time again, loving how it unlocks the world of sweater-knitting! -Laura
Update: Now in Cattail Silk!
August 2018
We love our Lightweight Raglan Pullover in Linen Quill, but for summer, we love it even more in beautiful Cattail Silk… as light and gentle as a warm breeze! Cattail Silk comes in a stunning array of colors and is 618 yards per skein… which means, to make this Pullover, you’d just need 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins!
Materials
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, 15% linen. We used the color Oatmeal Gray.
- US 4, 32 or 40-inch circular needles, depending on sweater size
- US 4, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 4, double pointed needles
- 4 stitch markers, including 1 of a unique color or shape for end of round
- 5 stitch holders or scrap yarn
YARN UPDATE: For a fantastic alternative to Linen Quill, try our Cattail Silk! It has a very subtle shine, a wonderfully earthy texture, and a casual spin speckled by little nubs of color. It comes in a stunning array of colors and is 618 yards per skein… which means, to make this Lightweight Linen Raglan, you’d just need 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins!
Gauge
28 stitches and 33 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
32 (36, 40, 44, 48)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-47) inches, with 1-4 inches of positive ease.
- Finished Chest Circumference: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge of Back: 22 ¼ (23 ¼, 24 ¼, 25 ½, 26 ¾) inches
- Finished Length of Armhole: 8 ¾ (9 ¼, 9 ¾, 10 ½, 11) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge (measured at side): 10 (10 ½, 11, 11 ½, 12 ¼) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16 ¾ (16 ¾, 17, 17 ½, 17 ¾) inches
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 36 inches, modeled with 3 inches of ease.
Notes
Wrp-t (wrap and turn):
- On the right side: Keeping the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
- On the wrong side: Keeping the yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Turn the work so the right side is facing you.
Pattern
Sleeves
Cast 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) stitches onto three double pointed needles.
Place marker (pm) and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 8 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch…
*Use the tip of the right needle to pick up the purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch…
…Place it on left needle, knit the next stitch and the picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 1 inch from cast-on edge.
Shape Sleeve
Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times. [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 16 ¾ (16 ¾, 17, 17 ½, 17 ¾) inches from cast-on edge.
Next Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing end-of-round marker, knit to end. [76 (80, 86, 90, 96) stitches remain]
Cut yarn.
Place remaining stitches on scrap yarn and set aside. This will be the Right Sleeve.
Make the Left Sleeve the same as the Right Sleeve, but leave the 76 (80, 86, 90, 96)Sleeve stitches on the double pointed needles. Set aside.
Body
Cast 224 (252, 280, 308, 336) stitches onto the longer circular needles.
Place unique marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 8 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch…* Use the tip of the right needle to pick up the purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch, place it on left needle, knit the next stitch and the picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
Shape Bottom Edge
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each round rather than continuing to the end of the round. For extra help, see both the Notes section and our Short Rows Tutorial.
Short Row 1 (right side): K75 (84, 93, 103, 112), wrap and turn (wrp-t).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): P38 (42, 46, 52, 56), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (4, 5, 5, 6), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (4, 5, 5, 6), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 6: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Rows 7-12: Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 three more times.
Short Row 13: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (2, 2, 3, 3), wrp-t.
Short Row 14: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (2, 2, 3, 3), wrp-t.
Short Rows 15-20: Repeat Short Rows 13 and 14 three more times.
Short Row 21: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1 (1, 1, 1, 2), wrp-t.
Short Row 22: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1 (1, 1, 1, 2), wrp-t.
Short Rows 23-28: Repeat Short Rows 21 and 22 three more times.
Short Row 29: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k75 (84, 93, 103, 112), wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 2 through 28 once more.
Next Short Row: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round.
Continue Body
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 13 ½ (14, 14 ½, 15, 15 ¾) inches from cast-on edge (measured at longest point, either at center of Back or center of Front).
Separate Front + Back
Round 1: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Underarm, removing end-of-round marker, k112 (126, 140, 154, 168), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm, knit to Left Underarm (next stitch holder). [204 (224, 244, 264, 284) stitches remain: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) stitches for each Front and Back]
Yoke
Join Sleeves
Round 1: With the working yarn from the Body, knit 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) Left Sleeve stitches onto Body’s circular needles, pm, knit 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) Front stitches, pm, slip on-hold Right Sleeve stitches onto spare needles and then knit those 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) stitches onto Body’s circular needles, pm, knit 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) Back stitches, place unique marker for end-of-round. [356 (384, 416, 444, 476) stitches: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) stitches for each Front and Back, 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) stitches for each Sleeve]
Begin Shaping Raglan
FOR SIZE 32 INCHES ONLY:
Next Round: Knit.
Sleeve Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat the last 2 rounds once more. [348 (–, –, –, –) stitches: 102 (–, –, –, –) stitches for each of Front and Back, 72 (–, –, –, –) stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Round: Knit.
FOR SIZES 36 AND 40 INCHES ONLY:
Next Round: Knit.
FOR SIZES 44 AND 48 INCHES ONLY:
Next Round: Knit.
Body Decrease Round: [Knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Body Decrease Round – (–, –, 2, 3) more times. [– (–, –, 432, 460) stitches: – (–, –, 126, 134) stitches for each Front and Back, – (–, –, 90, 96) stitches for each Sleeve]
FOR ALL SIZES:
Raglan Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Raglan Decrease Round every round 0 (0, 2, 4, 6) more times, then every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) more times. [156 (160, 168, 176, 180) stitches: 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) stitches for each Front and Back, 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
Shape Neckline + Shoulders
Set-Up Round: Knit to next marker, sm, k36 (38, 41, 43, 45), place previous 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Neckline, knit to end of round. [138 (140, 146, 152, 154) stitches: 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) stitches for each Left and Right Front, 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) stitches for Back, 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
Cut yarn.
Slip the following markers and stitches from left needle to right needle: slip end-of-round marker, slip 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) Left Sleeve stitches, sm, slip 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) Left Front stitches (you are now next to on-hold Front Neckline stitches).
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work part way through each row rather than continuing to the end of the row. For extra help, see both the Notes section and our Short Rows Tutorial.
NOTE: The stitch marker at the Back Left of the Body will now serve as a raglan marker instead of the end-of-round marker. The Front Neckline now marks the ends of the row.
With right side facing you, join yarn to Right Front stitches…
Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last stitch, wrp-t. [130 (132, 138, 144, 146) stitches: 17 (17, 18, 18, 18) stitches for each Front, 52 (54, 58, 60, 62) stitches for Back, 22 (22, 22, 24, 24) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to last stitch, wrp-t.
Short Row 3: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 5 stitches, wrp-t. [122 (124, 130, 136, 138) stitches: 16 (16, 17, 17, 17) stitches for each Front, 50 (52, 56, 58, 60) stitches for Back, 20 (20, 20, 22, 22) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 4: Purl to last 5 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 5: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 8 stitches, wrp-t. [114 (116, 122, 128, 130) stitches: 15 (15, 16, 16, 16) stitches for each Front, 48 (50, 54, 56, 58) stitches for Back, 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 6: Purl to last 8 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 7: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) stitches, wrp-t. [106 (108, 114, 120, 122) stitches: 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) stitches for each Front, 46 (48, 52, 54, 56) stitches for Back,16 (16, 16, 18, 18) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 8: Purl to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 9: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 3 times, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, wrp-t. [100 (102, 108, 114, 116) stitches: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) stitches for Right Front, 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) stitches for Right Sleeve, 44 (46, 50, 52, 54) stitches for Back, 15 (15, 15, 17, 17) stitches for Left Sleeve, 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 10: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Short Row 11: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 2 times, k1, wrp-t. [96 (98, 104, 110, 112) stitches: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) stitches for Right Front, 13 (13, 13, 15, 15) stitches for Right Sleeve, 42 (44, 48, 50, 52) stitches for Back, 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) stitches for Left Sleeve, 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 12: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, p3, wrp-t.
Short Row 13: Working the wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them, [k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker] 2 times, k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of row. [90 (92, 98, 104, 106) stitches: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) stitches for each Front, 40 (42, 46, 48, 50) stitches for Back, 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) stitches for each Sleeve]
Neckband
NOTE: Change to shorter circular needles.
Place a unique marker to indicate the end of round.
Round 1: With the right side facing you, knit the 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) on-hold Front Neckline stitches, knit to end of round, working the remaining wrapped stitches with their wraps and removing the remaining raglan markers as you come to them. [108 (112, 120, 128, 132) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 3 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch…* Use the tip of the right needle to pick up the purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch, place it on left needle, knit the next stitch and the picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 2 rounds.
Bind off all stitches loosely.
Finish
Use Kitchener Stitch to graft the Underarm stitches together.
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
PRINT
Loved the look of this sweater and got 3/4 way thru and was unable to complete due to the confusing directions. Its sitting in a box waiting for me to maybe pay and take it to a knitting store near me and see if they can help me finish it. I made it to the neckline/shoulder.
Hi Jennifer,
I’m so sorry to hear that you are at a standstill with your sweater! Is there a particular step I can try to clarify for you?
Best,
Julianna
Yes, a you tube tutorial would be FABULOUS!
Hi Gabi,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this, but if there is a particular step in the pattern that is giving you trouble, I would be happy to try to explain it!
Best,
Julianna
Jennifer, did you ever figure it out? I got to the same section and was ready to throw in the towel but then figured out what they meant. Please let me know if you still need help? I see it was feb. of this year when you posted.
I was interested in your newer pattern (shown in silk) as it LOOKED like the bottom edge was straight, or at least less curved? However I am referred to the original pattern so I’m confused. I have already done my sleeves using this pattern and have the bottom/curved edges complete but am suspecting I won’t be happy with the curved edges with my large size.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the effect is less pronounced because it is an extremely drapey yarn, we did knit the curved hems in our Cattail Silk sample. If you prefer to omit the curved hems and don’t mind starting over, you could simply cast on, skip the short rows, and go to the “Continue Body” section.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! I’m planning on making this my next project. I’m new to sweaters and have done everything on circular needles magic loop style so far. Would magic loop work for both the body and the sleeves on this?
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for reaching out! While magic loop won’t be necessary for the body of the sweater, since it will fit comfortably on a 32 inch needle, you could certainly knit the sleeves and neckline using magic loop if you prefer.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Looking forward to starting this sweater soon – but curious if the stated gauge is pre- or post-blocking?
Thanks!
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for reaching out! This is the post-blocking final gauge.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I want to knit this sweater for my daughter. I have already finished the sleeves. I would like to knit the body with a straight bottom hem. I have already completed the the cording hem. Is there any way I can knit the body without the curved hem? If that is possible, what is the number of stitches should I have once I have completed the body and have reached the yolk and have to join on the sleeves. If you can help me, I would really appreciate it, as I love the sweater. Thanks in advance.
Sincerely,
Veena Raghavan
Hi Veena,
Thanks for reaching out! If you prefer to omit the curved hems you can simply cast on the amount indicated for your size, skip the short rows, and go to the “Continue Body” section. The number of stitches for the body remains the same from the cast on to the point where you join the sleeves, regardless of whether you choose to work the short rows or not.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am still hoping that I will get a reply to my question on February 19th about NOT doing the curved hem and just knitting the body straight with a question of how many stitches I should have on my needles when I start the yoke and join the sleeves BUT
I wanted to tell you that I have found a, for me, easier way to do the cording stitch for the hem while keeping it even. I put a thin knitting needle through about 20 of the 4th purl bumps, then knit the stitch off the bump and the active circular needle. Works well for me and is much faster. I hope this tip helps some of your readers if they have not already worked it out for themselves. Thank you.
Veena Raghavan
Hi Julianna,
Thank you for your reply to my query of February 18th and for confirming that I can omit the curved hems and just continue knitting straight, with the same number of cast-on stitches until I have to join the sleeves.
Veena
Hi,
I’m up to the begin shaping raglan round after attaching sleeves and the FOR SIZES 36 AND 40 INCHES ONLY: direction just says knit unlike all the other sizes. I’m making a 40” so what step is next? Do I just knit one whole round for this size then move on to All Sizes for next step?
Hi and thanks for writing in! That is correct – at this point, for size 40, you will knit one round, and then proceed to the next set of directions that are for all sizes.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks! Better safe than sorry when I’ve come this far on a project!
Hi! I’m in a similar spot. I just did my sleeve decrease. Is the next step the Body Decrease or the FOR ALL SIZES? The for all sizes directions don’t indicate the correct starting spot!
Hello Katrina,
Thank you for reaching out! This depends on which size you are making, for example if you are knitting size 40, you will knit 1 round and then go to the raglan decrease round under “FOR ALL SIZES”
I hope this clears things up for you and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hello –
I am working this as my first sweater project and so far so good. The only issue I have is that the bottom is curling up a lot. No one else is mentioning this, so I’m not sure if it’s normal and something that is fixable or if I did something wrong?
Thank you so much for the help and awesome pattern!
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out! It can be normal for the bottom of this sweater to curl up a bit before blocking, so I would suggest giving the hem a light steam or spray blocking while it still on the needles to see if that remedies the situation. If you substituted a different yarn, that could also contribute to the hem rolling up more than ours did, especially if the yarn is thicker than Linen Quill, since a tight or densely knit fabric will roll more aggressively than a looser knit. If the hem does not respond well to blocking, you may want to start over and add a ribbed edging to help the sweater lay flat.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m stuck at the same spot as another commenter. I’ve just added the sleeves for size 40 but I’m confused by the directions. It looks like you only decrease the raglan on the sleeves , not on the body for sizes 36 and 40. I knit it by what the directions seemed to say but it was obviously wrong when I got to the neckline. I was only decreasing on the body so the sleeves were way too big at the top. I’m realizing now that the decreases should have happened on the sleeves but then it looks like the body would be way to wide if you don’t decrease the body as well. Do you decrease on both the sleeve and the body or just the sleeves for size 40?
Thanks for your help! I love your patterns and your site. Next time I’m in NYC I’m going to stop in to your shop.
Hello Beth,
Thank you for reaching out! For size 40, you will knit one round and then go into “Raglan Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]” This means that for your raglan decreases you have decreases on either side on each of your four markers. This means that for your eight decreases, four will be on the sleeve side and four on your body size. I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I made this sweater from the linen quill and love the texture this yarn brings to the project. The linen quill has been a pleasure to wear, light and warm with good drape. Love the pattern so much, I’m making it again with a much more “homogenous” color yarn.
I’m not an advanced knitter so this pattern was easily adapted to my desired measurements.
I appreciate getting this pattern for free, I love it (and am seriously considering making it a third time!).
When doing the short rows at the bottom of the body, the shaping appear to be for one side. I am unclear how the directions achieve both sides to be rounded.Perhaps I missed this? Any ideas. Thank you. Jbb
Hi Jane,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that Short Rows 1 through 28 do only create the curved hem on the first half of the sweater. When you work Short Row 29, it will have you knit to the second half of the sweater and then repeat Short Rows 1 through 28 to create the same curved hem on the second half. You can find this instruction in the last two lines of the “Shape Bottom Edge” section of the pattern.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve done 4 sweaters with this pattern for myself and to give as a gift. All turned out to be awsome. Thank you for sharing it.
Beautiful design–nice silhouette with the shaped hem and elegant detail with the cording that is especially nice on the neckline. Quill is a pleasure to work with, too. I’m blocking my first sweater and already have cast on for a second one–lots of easy knitting and then a few more complex steps when joining the sleeves and working the short row shaping at the neckline.
I don’t think I could have knit this as my first or beginner’s sweater: Kitchener stitch gets easier with practice (lots of socks!) and your short rows tutorial is highly recommended. Thank you for this wonderful pattern.
does this sweater curl on bottom? I made 2 wraps that weren’t supposed to curl and even with blocking they’re not totally flat. Just want to make sure. Many thanks,
Susan
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out! This lovely sweater does sometimes curl at bottom, but in our experience this is always eliminated with blocking.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Would like to knit this sweater – was wondering how much more yarn would be needed to make longer? Possible 4 inches.
Elaine
Hi Elaine,
Thanks for writing in! Linen Quill has very generous yardage, so I think one extra skein would be plenty to add several inches of length to the sweater.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you
I am having trouble identifying the purl bump for the cording stitch in the photos you posted, especially since I am using a dark colored yarn. Any chance you can post a picture of the purl side, flat and mark the purl bumps 4 rows down? It would really help.
Hello Mauree,
Thank you for reaching out! This can be tricky, particularly with darker colors. If you look at the photo under “Next Round: Work Cording Stitch…” We have identified the bump that you are picking up with a pink bar.
I hope this helps and thank you for the great suggestion!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Marilla,
Tried working from the picture you included but it is somewhat distorted because one needle is bent back to pick up the stitch. Any chance you can provide a straight on pic of the purl side with the bump marked? That would be a HUGE help
Hello Maureen,
I hope I can help! I will certainly pass along your suggestion for additional tutorial photos. In the mean time, the left side will look the same in terms of purl bumps as the photo. I would suggest perhaps zooming in and comparing your knitting to the photo. It helps me to count to the fourth bump down, from the picture, to the bumps next to the marked bump. This helps to clarify which bump you should be picking up.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
In the “Begin Shaping Raglan”, it says FOR SIZE 32 INCHES ONLY: Next round knit; Sleeve Decrease Round: … repeat the last …; Next Round: Knit. FOR SIZES 36 AND 40 INCHES ONLY: Next round knit. FOR SIZES 44 AND 48 … My question is, for size 36 do you do the sleeve decrease, etc., then go on to the Body Decrease Round? There are no #’s indicated for size 36?? Help??
Hi Wendy,
I am happy to help! In this section, for the size 36, you will follow the instructions under “FOR SIZES 36 AND 40 INCHES ONLY” and then move onto the instructions under “FOR ALL SIZES”. Essentially the size 36 and 40 do not need the additional rounds that the other sizes do to get to the same point that you will see under “FOR ALL SIZES”.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Thanks so much. Regards
Hi, me again! This is the second time I have got to the raglan decrease round. I have the four markers and the right number of stitches. When I read the instructions for raglan decrease, I am only decreasing the sleeve stitches, not the body. Where do I do the decrease in the body part (in relation to the markers)? Thanks for your help.
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out! When beginning the raglan decrease round you should have four markers placed including the end of round marker, which will be at the beginning of the left sleeve. Working the first repeat of the raglan decrease round, which is K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm), decreases two stitches from the left sleeve. This bracketed section is repeated four times, which will remove two stitches each from each sleeve and the front back for a total of 8 stitches by the time you get back around to the end of round marker.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I love this sweater, and I am knitting the size 40 chest. I am knitting the first sleeve and I am a bit confused. I says “Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times. [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) stitches] so I have knit an increase every 6th row.” now it says to to knit an increase every 5th row but (0, 16,1, 14) not sure how many times to increase. Sorry if this is a duh question. But need your help.
thanks
Hi Betty,
I am happy to help! I find that it helps to write out the instructions long form! The instructions here read:
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times. [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) stitches]
When you delete all of the information for the other sizes, the instructions for your size (40) would read:
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 6th round 5 more times, then every 5th round 16 times. [104 stitches]
Or written out even more long form….
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 6th round 5 more times. (total of 6 times)
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round 5th round 16 times.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi again. I figured out the raglan decrease steps. Am now at shaping neckline and shoulders. Have got as far as cut the yarn and am totally confused at short row 1. What do I do with the stitches that are on stitch holder ? Help!
Hello Wendy,
Thank you for reaching out! For this portion you are joining your sleeves to your body, before starting your raglan decreases. Once you have done this you will have four sections with stitches on holders. One section on the left side of your body, the right side of your body, your left sleeve and your right sleeve. The left body stitches on a holder and the left sleeve stitches on a holder will be parallel to each other, as will the pair of right stitches. These stitches are are your underarms and will be grafted together once you have finished knitting up your sweater.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
How many yards would I need of fingering yarn to make the small size of this sweater? I made one in #4 yarn already.
Thanks for your reply.
Hello Wendy,
Thank you for reaching out! For the smallest size you need approximately 1,070 yards.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have nearly finished this sweater and am working on the neckline short rows. This is probably a dumb question but here goes: Short row 3 says to knit to the last 5 stitches, then wrap and turn. Do I wrap the last stitch before the 5 last stitches or do I wrap the first of the 5 last stitches? Thanks for your help.
Hi Georgia,
Thanks for reaching out! Don’t worry, reading short row instructions can be tricky! You will be wrapping the first of the last 5 stitches, so after you turn, you will have 5 stitches on your right hand needle, including the wrapped stitch.
Best,
Julianna
Are there other yarns that are comparable with this pattern? I’m curious to see if there’s a “sportier” type of yarn?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! Just about any fingering weight yarn will work well for this pattern. We have also knit this pattern up in Cattail Silk, and I think Sweetgrass would be another lovely summer weight option!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I have a question about sizing. If I have a chest measurement of 35″, would you recommend I make the size 36 or 40? This will be my first attempt at knitting a sweater so I want to make sure I get the sizing right. Thank you!
Hi Annisa,
Thanks for writing in! We suggest the size 36 for 32 to 35 inch chests; however, if you prefer a looser fitting sweater, you could certainly knit the 40 instead! Our pictures show the sweater worn with 3 inches of positive ease, and you would either have 1 inch of positive ease with the size 36 or 5 inches of positive ease with the size 40. One way to figure out which size you will prefer is to measure the chest of a sweater you already own and like the fit of and choose the size that is closest to that measurement.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello,
I’m ALMOST finished my sweater! Just wondering for the short rows on the back of neck shaping, on the right side rows, am I knitting to 5 stitches BEFORE the last wrapped stitch, or actually to the last 5 stitches and wrap the wrapped stitch again? Specifically I am on Short Row 3 but they are all written similarly.
Thank you!
Frances
Hi Frances,
Great question! For these short rows, you will be knitting or purling to the designated number of stitches before the end of the row, which is where the front neckline stitches are on hold. So, for short row 3, you will knit to the last stitches before the end of the row and then work your wrap and turn on the next stitch.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am a beginner knitter and struggling w/the Cording stitch on the sweater body. I am not seeing in the photo of the finished sweater where there is a pleat or a “cord bump” to understand what look I am trying to achieve. Do I necessarily need this stitch for the size 36? What would happen if I just straight knit this row and then went on to the short row instructions? Appreciate your help!
Hi Denise,
Thanks for reaching out! The Cording Stitch can be seen in the images both around the hem and neck of the sweater – it looks a bit like a double rolled edge running parallel to the bottom of the sweater. Without the Cording Stitch, the bottom of the sweater will curl up due to the nature of stockinette stitch, so if you prefer to skip it, I would suggest knitting a few rows of garter stitch instead to help the edges of the sweater lay flat.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you!
Hi. I’m having trouble with the short row turns on the neckband section. I must be really missing something obvious as no one else has written in with this dilemma . As each row wraps and turns further away from the end , I never get to the previous wrapped stitches to pick up the wrap? ie. 5,8,10 stitches before the end . Can you please explain. I’m doing this for the second time because I obviously ended up with holes the first time. Thanks.
Hi Helen,
Thanks for writing in! It does actually sound like you are working this section correctly. As you work the neckline short rows, each row is shorter than the last, so you will have multiple wrap & turns left on your needle. When you work Short Row 13, you will knit all the way to the end of the row, picking up all the wrapped stitches as you come to them, and will then work back across all the stitches on Round 1 of the neckband, picking up the remaining wrapped stitches as you go.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
This is probably a duh question. With the short rows for the sweater body, after the wrap (e.g., Short Row 1, right side), do I continue purling then to the end of that round? Or does Short Row 2 start after the wrap…and short Row 3 after the SR2 wrap, etc?
Hi Denise,
Thanks for reaching out, and don’t worry, short rows are a tricky skill to master! After turning at the end of each short row you will immediately work the next short row without any rows in between.
I hope that helps, and don’t hesitate to ask if you have any other questions!
Julianna
I am on the raglan decrease rounds and have six more stitches on the back than I do on the front. The sleeves are equal. Is there a way to decrease the back body without it being noticeable?
Thanks for your help,
Candy
Hi Candy,
Thanks for reaching out! If you are only part way through the raglan decreases, I think it would look best to work the extra back decreases in during a few plain, or knit-only, rows, in the same way that you would work the decreases if it were a raglan decrease row. They should blend in nicely with the raglan decrease lines. However, I suspect you may have not distributed the stitches correctly when joining the sleeves to the body, so those three of those extra six stitches may be missing from the front. The front and back should have an even number of stitches throughout this section, so if you have an odd number, you might want to unravel all the way back to the beginning of the raglan to make sure that you will have the correct number of stitches when the raglan decreases are complete.
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
That makes sense; thank you so much!
Hi. I completed sweater in cattail silk and it is beautiful. However when I joined the underarm stitches which were on stitch holders i was left with holes on each side! My kitchener stitch is perfect but I do not know why I have 2 holes at each end of seams. Not sure how to fix this! Take out kitchener stitch maybe. ??
Thanks.
Gloria
Hi Gloria,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! It is actually totally normal to still have holes on either side of the kitchener stitch after closing up the underarm of a sweater, so I’m sure you did everything correctly! You will just have to use the tails of yarn left from working the kitchener stitch to close up any remaining holes before weaving the ends in.
I hope that helps, and congratulations on your nearly finished sweater!
Julianna
To clarify on the increase rows on the sleeve, the first round of increases is to increase every 7th round 12 more times for a total of 13 increase rows; and then every 6th round 4 times for a total of 4 increase rows . Correct?
Hello Peggy,
Thank you for reaching out. Yes- you are exactly right. You first knit 1 increase round and should. After you have done this, you knit your increase round every 7th round 12 times. This totals 13 increase rounds or 26 increased stitches. You then increase every 6th round 4 times. This is 4 increase rounds giving you 8 more stitches.
I hoe this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there,
I’m beginning my sleeve for a size 36 and I’m a little confused about my next step (…then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times. [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) stitches]).
It looks like it ways to add increases every 0 rounds, 0 times. So does this mean that I just disregard this next step and move onto continuing in stockinette?
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, that is correct! Whenever you see a 0 for a set of instructions in your size, that means to skip that step and continue on to the next instructions.
Best,
Julianna
Awesome, thank you!!
Oh how I wish knitting patterns were written in a language I undertsood! Am reduced to making it up as I go along due to the unholy abbreviations which instead of clarifying, make all so much denser. Or is it just me? Thanks anyway.
ps) the short videos are very helpful though.
Hello Leti,
Thank you for reaching out! Let us know if we can clarify anything in this pattern for you!
I hope I can help,
Marilla
Hi there!
I’ve completed sleeve number one and am stuck with putting the stitches onto the waste yarn. The pattern says to knit 13 then put the previous 26 stitches on the waste yarn, remove the marker and knit to end.
1. Does the previous 26 stitches include the 13 that the instructions said to knit first?
2. I’m assuming that waste yarn holds the stitches independently of the needle, but if the 26 stitches that I’m supposed to put on the waste yarn includes those that I’ve just knitted and are sitting on the needle, how do I get them off onto the waste yarn?
I’m obviously confused and cannot seem to find any visuals or a good explanation anywhere that would show me how to follow these instructions. Would you please help?
Thanks in advance!
Hello Lisa,
Thank you for reaching out! The 13 stitches that you just knit are included in the 26 stitches that you put on scrape yarn. The way that I like to put my stitches on hold is to slide my scrape yarn through the stitches on my needle before sliding them off. The easiest way to do this to use a tapestry needle to pick off each stitch off your needle and onto your scrape yarn.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Thank you very much! This does help.
Lisa
Marilla,
This is confusing me as well…if the first 5 stitches (for a size 32) is included in the set of 10 stitches to place on hold, doesn’t this means half of the “on hold” stitches will have one extra row, creating an uneven row for grafting together with the body later?
Hello Julie,
This is a great question! The row to row measurement is so minute that it will not create any unevenness.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi again,
So I’ve come to a crucial part of the sweater – to frog or to keep going. I’m reaching out as I’d love to keep going but I’m not sure if I’m too far gone in my misunderstanding/ error.
So, I’m at the curved border of the sweater and I’ve finished one side. I believe that the curved portions are done twice – once for the front and once for the back – thus the instructions at the end before the continue body section that says “repeat short rows 2 through 28 once more”. Am I correct?
Say I’m correct, here’s the problem that I’m having. At the end of the first curved bottom i.e. row 29 – knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k75(84, 93, 103,112) wrp-t… is the part where we are to knit to wrap stitch working it with its wrap (before knitting 75 etc) is this the start/ end of the row? Do we see the row marker that indicated the start/end of a row? (please say yes!)
If it is yes, I’m unsure about what the instructions are telling me to do. Where we are told to k75(84, 93, 103,112) wrp-t, isn’t this the other half of the sweater that we are now doing the curved edge for? We were going back and forth with the short rows for the other side and now it’s this side’s turn, yes?
But if that is so, and we are at the start/end of the row as being indicated by the row marker, then where we are supposed to repeat rows 2 through 28 makes it seem as though we are going into the previously worked section that already has the curved edge?
So end of row 29 – k75(84, 93, 103,112) wrp-t (have passed the row marker and am now in the side that now needs the curved hem worked)
Repeat row 2 (wrong side) P38(42,4652,56), wrp-t (okay done)
Repeat row 3: knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3(4,5,5,6), wrp-t.
Now, to me, row 3 puts me back to the stitch marker, meaning that the k3(4,5,5,6), wrp-t will put me in the “done” territory of the first side that I’ve completed the curved bottom for already. Is this right? Shouldn’t I be working solely in the “undone section”? When I worked the first section, I didn’t seem to venture into the other side at all – now that I’m doing the second side, it seems as though I have to knit into the done section?
And if I’m not knitting into the done section, and I’m just wrapping and turning at the end of the row into the undone section, won’t a gap form between the two sections as I knit that will only get longer and longer the more rows I complete? I’m guessing that these two sides have to remain joined so I’m confused all around.
I’d hate to rip out all the work I’ve done already. Would you be able to help? I hope I explained my problem properly and you would keep me from frogging!
Thanks in advance,
Lisa
Hmmmm – I think I may have found the problem. I may have knit to the end of the row where the stitch marker is instead of knitting the 112 stitches. I’ve tinked back to row 29 and have knit 112 stitches and that seems to put me in the middle instead of at the very end by the stitch marker…
Hello Lisa,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct- you are now doing the short row shaping on the other half of the sweater. I’m happy to hear you worked it out! If you come across any more questions just let us know!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I love this sweater pattern but want to know if I can use an icord cast-on for this project. If so, would you suggest a 3 or 4 stitch icord?
Hello Carol,
Thank you for reaching out! You can certainly do an I-cord cast on in place of the hemmed stitch. I would do a 3 stitch.
I happy knitting!
-Marilla
How do you do a cording stitch?
Hello Rebecca,
Thank you for reaching out! The cording stitch is done by using the tip of the right needle to pick up the purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch and place it on left needle, knit the next stitch and the picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
We also have have photos above that help to further explain.
I hope this makes sense, but let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Thank you. For some reason the words makes sense now.
Can you please help me with a question? I’m figuring out a sweater with a short row curve in the back only. It is 88 stitches wide. How do you figure out where the wrap and turn starts and stops to get a curve like you have on your sweater pattern. I get how to wrap and turn but not how you figure out the proportion on a set number of stitches. Do you start half way ? Or three quarters. I can’t find the info anywhere on the web. They only tell you how to figure it out for a bustling. TY
Hi Elaine,
Thanks for writing in! Where you place the short rows for a curved hemline will determine how deep or wide the curve is, but there isn’t a hard and fast rule for where to place the short rows since different knitters will prefer the look of different types of hemlines. Since you are creating your own sweater, you will have to use a bit of trial and error to see what you like! For a double curved hemline like this one, you will want to start the first short rows close to the side seam markers and then move in towards the center by a few stitches each row until you are several inches away from the center for the last short rows. If you find that the curve is getting too deep before you are close to the center, you will need to work your wrap and turns farther apart; or, if you want to add more depth, work them closer together.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am confused about the last row of the sleeve;
Knit 5, place previous 10 stitches on stitch holder.
Does this mean the last 10 stitches of the last row?
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for reaching out! When you place these 10 stitches on a holder, it will be the first five stitches of the current row and the last five stitches of the previous row, so that the beginning of the round will be in the center of these 10 stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Love the sweater! Finished both sleeves and am now fighting with the body part. Can you help me mathematically. I started casting 252 stitches. 1st Row – 84, 2nd Row 42 and when I reachRow 28 I have 98 stitches. Is that correct? Please help. Thank you very much.
Maria
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in! When knitting the body of this sweater, you will always have 252 stitches total on the needle. The section you are referring to is working short rows, so after knitting 84 stitches in the first row, you will work a wrap and turn and then purl 42 stitches. The total number of stitches on the needle, however, will not change. You may find our Wrap + Turn Short Rows Tutorial helpful for this step!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Will try again. Thank you very much.
Maria
Hi,
Loved making this sweater out of cattail silk. What is the best way to block it?
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for writing in – we are so glad you enjoyed our pattern! Cattail Silk can be machine washed and dried and it turns out beautifully without the need for blocking, but if you prefer, you can wet block your sweater by soaking it in cool water and laying it flat to dry, using our schematic as a guide to block the sweater to the correct measurements.
Warmly,
Julianna
Hi,
I’m concerned this might not be quite warm enough (I get cold very easily) . Is there another yarn you’d recommend that’s a little warmer?
Thanks,
Robin
Hi Robin,
Great question! Linen Quill as actually quite warm, due to the high wool and alpaca content, but the sweater is fairly thin. If you prefer, Posy should knit up to the correct gauge but would create a denser, more substantial knitted fabric.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m really excited to knit this sweater, but I have a skein of silk that is only 1000 yards. Will this be enough to make the smallest size, or if not, could you recommend places in the sweater that I can sub in a little bit of other yarn to make up the difference but that won’t look too weird, like cuffs/neckline etc? Thanks!!
Hi and thanks for reaching out! You have nearly enough yarn for the smallest size – it requires 1,070 yards, so you are only short 70 yards! I think you could do just the corded edging on the hem, cuffs, and neckline in another yarn and it would create a lovely detail, while also stretching your yarn just far enough!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi. Thanks for sharing this lovely pullover pattern. I’m making one for myself (size 36) and need your help with the short rows to shape neckline + shoulders.
Short Row 3 says, “knit to last 5 stitches, wrap-t.” My question is: does this “last 5 stitches” include the last wrapped stitch I made on Short Row 1?
First I thought it doesn’t, but then I noticed, if I don’t include the wrapped stitch in “last 5 stitches,” I won’t have enough stitches left for “last 8 stitches” on Short Row 5.
I’m confused..
Hi Ik,
Thanks for writing in! At this point, the beginning and end of your rows will be on either side of the front neck stitches, which have been placed on hold. For Short Rows 1 and 2, you should have knit or purled all the way to the end of the row, working decreases as directed and slipping all the markers in between, and wrapped the last stitch of the row, right next to those held front neck stitches. When working Short Row 3 and 4, you will be working all the way to the last 5 stitches of the row, which does include the previously wrapped stitch, so you should always have plenty of stitches to work the short rows since they are at the very ends of the entire rows.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I have completed the bottom hem shaping and am at the following step:
“Next Short Row: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round”
After working the first wrapped stitch, I will still have 3 wrapped stitches remaining across the entire round. Is that correct? And should I work these wrapped stitches, or knit them as regular stitches?
Hi Jean,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you might have gotten off on your short rows, because you should have only one wrapped stitch left at this point. During each of the short rows, you should have resolved the wrap and turn created in the previous short row, so by the time you get to the end, you only have the one wrap and turn left. If your short rows look even and the curve of the hem is centered, you could knit to the end, knitting each wrapped stitch with its wrap so it doesn’t leave a hole, but if your short rows are off center, I would recommend going back and starting them over.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi. I am really enjoying this pattern and so far things are going really well. I wonder if you might be able to clarify the Raglan Decrease section for me. (Size 36)
I did the 1st Raglan Decrease Round and am ready to go onto the repeats. It says to repeat every round 0 more times, then every other round 27 more times.
Do I knit the 1st with out decreases and then the second with decreases, and so on for a total of 54 rows?
Any help is greatly appreciated. TIA.
Hello Lauren,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, you are absolutely correct. You will knit a round of stockinette and then a decrease round, and so on and so forth.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello Purl Soho
I am beginning the Lightweight Raglan Pullover using your Linen Quill yarn but am having trouble getting gauge.
So far, I have made a swatch IN THE ROUND on #4 bamboo needles. I am getting 23 stitches in 4 inches instead of the 28 asked for.
Is the gauge made in round or on the flat? Perhaps that is the problem. Usually, I am a tightish knitter so I am surprised by this number.
I can try again with #3 metal needles and see how I do.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Margaret
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for reaching out! Our gauge is measured on the finished sweater, which is knit in the round, so you should go by your swatch in the round. It does sound like you need to go down a needle size, but I would suggest double checking your gauge once you have finished a few inches of the first sleeve. It is possible for your gauge swatch to turn out slightly different from your regular knitting as most people tend to be more focused when knitting their swatch.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Would your line weight yarn be suitable for this sweater?
Or is there another sweater pattern that you could suggest for the line weight yarn?
Thank-you
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! While Line Weight would be the right weight for this sweater, we usually don’t recommend Line Weight on its own for adult sweaters. It is supremely soft but also quite delicate, so it can be prone to wear and pilling in high friction areas like the underarms. Instead, I would recommend using Posy for this sweater – it is just as soft, but much sturdier and just right for this pullover!
Happy knitting!
Julianna