A circular raglan pullover is a wonderfully empowering thing for first-time sweater knitters. Creating one is like receiving a decoder ring for sweater-making. It unlocks secret geometries and makes simple sense of what is, after all, a pretty complicated garment.
Who knew you could knit three tubes (i.e. 2 sleeves and a body) and then join them together into a larger tube (i.e. a yoke)!?! From there, regular “raglan” decreases shape the shoulders, from the underarms to the neckline. And in our Lightweight Raglan Pullover, subtle details, like cording stitch edges and short row shaping, give beginners a good challenge and keep experts interested.
Purl Soho’s Linen Quill effortlessly elevates this simple sweater into something truly special. Its blend of wool, alpaca, and linen gives the Lightweight Raglan Pullover a soft bloom, a beautiful drape, and a unique look.
Whether this is your first sweater or your hundredth, I hope you enjoy the magic. No matter how many new tricks I learn, I turn to this intuitive construction method time and time again, loving how it unlocks the world of sweater-knitting! -Laura
Materials
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, 15% linen. We used the color Oatmeal Gray.
- US 4, 32 or 40-inch circular needles, depending on sweater size
- US 4, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 4, double pointed needles
- 4 stitch markers, including 1 of a unique color or shape for end of round
- 5 stitch holders or scrap yarn
YARN UPDATE: For a fantastic alternative to Linen Quill, try our Cattail Silk! It has a very subtle shine, a wonderfully earthy texture, and a casual spin speckled by little nubs of color. It comes in a stunning array of colors and is 618 yards per skein… which means, to make this Lightweight Linen Raglan, you’d just need 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins!
Gauge
28 stitches and 33 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
32 (36, 40, 44, 48)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-47) inches, with 1-4 inches of positive ease.
- Finished Chest Circumference: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge of Back: 22 ¼ (23 ¼, 24 ¼, 25 ½, 26 ¾) inches
- Finished Length of Armhole: 8 ¾ (9 ¼, 9 ¾, 10 ½, 11) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge (measured at side): 10 (10 ½, 11, 11 ½, 12 ¼) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16 ¾ (16 ¾, 17, 17 ½, 17 ¾) inches
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 36 inches, modeled with 3 inches of ease.
Notes
Wrp-t (wrap and turn):
- On the right side: Keeping the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
- On the wrong side: Keeping the yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Turn the work so the right side is facing you.
Pattern
Sleeves
Cast 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) stitches onto three double pointed needles.
Place marker (pm) and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 8 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch…
*Use the tip of the right needle to pick up the purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch…
…Place it on left needle, knit the next stitch and the picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 1 inch from cast-on edge.
Shape Sleeve
Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times. [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 16 ¾ (16 ¾, 17, 17 ½, 17 ¾) inches from cast-on edge.
Next Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing end-of-round marker, knit to end. [76 (80, 86, 90, 96) stitches remain]
Cut yarn.
Place remaining stitches on scrap yarn and set aside. This will be the Right Sleeve.
Make the Left Sleeve the same as the Right Sleeve, but leave the 76 (80, 86, 90, 96)Sleeve stitches on the double pointed needles. Set aside.
Body
Cast 224 (252, 280, 308, 336) stitches onto the longer circular needles.
Place unique marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 8 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch…* Use the tip of the right needle to pick up the purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch, place it on left needle, knit the next stitch and the picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
Shape Bottom Edge
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each round rather than continuing to the end of the round. For extra help, see both the Notes section and our Short Rows Tutorial.
Short Row 1 (right side): K75 (84, 93, 103, 112), wrap and turn (wrp-t).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): P38 (42, 46, 52, 56), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (4, 5, 5, 6), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (4, 5, 5, 6), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 6: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Rows 7-12: Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 three more times.
Short Row 13: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (2, 2, 3, 3), wrp-t.
Short Row 14: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (2, 2, 3, 3), wrp-t.
Short Rows 15-20: Repeat Short Rows 13 and 14 three more times.
Short Row 21: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1 (1, 1, 1, 2), wrp-t.
Short Row 22: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1 (1, 1, 1, 2), wrp-t.
Short Rows 23-28: Repeat Short Rows 21 and 22 three more times.
Short Row 29: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k75 (84, 93, 103, 112), wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 2 through 28 once more.
Next Short Row: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round.
Continue Body
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 13 ½ (14, 14 ½, 15, 15 ¾) inches from cast-on edge (measured at longest point, either at center of Back or center of Front).
Separate Front + Back
Round 1: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Underarm, removing end-of-round marker, k112 (126, 140, 154, 168), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm, knit to Left Underarm (next stitch holder). [204 (224, 244, 264, 284) stitches remain: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) stitches for each Front and Back]
Yoke
Join Sleeves
Round 1: With the working yarn from the Body, knit 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) Left Sleeve stitches onto Body’s circular needles, pm, knit 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) Front stitches, pm, slip on-hold Right Sleeve stitches onto spare needles and then knit those 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) stitches onto Body’s circular needles, pm, knit 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) Back stitches, place unique marker for end-of-round. [356 (384, 416, 444, 476) stitches: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) stitches for each Front and Back, 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) stitches for each Sleeve]
Begin Shaping Raglan
FOR SIZE 32 INCHES ONLY:
Next Round: Knit.
Sleeve Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat the last 2 rounds once more. [348 (–, –, –, –) stitches: 102 (–, –, –, –) stitches for each of Front and Back, 72 (–, –, –, –) stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Round: Knit.
FOR SIZES 36 AND 40 INCHES ONLY:
Next Round: Knit.
FOR SIZES 44 AND 48 INCHES ONLY:
Next Round: Knit.
Body Decrease Round: [Knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Body Decrease Round – (–, –, 2, 3) more times. [– (–, –, 432, 460) stitches: – (–, –, 126, 134) stitches for each Front and Back, – (–, –, 90, 96) stitches for each Sleeve]
FOR ALL SIZES:
Raglan Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Raglan Decrease Round every round 0 (0, 2, 4, 6) more times, then every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) more times. [156 (160, 168, 176, 180) stitches: 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) stitches for each Front and Back, 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
Shape Neckline + Shoulders
Set-Up Round: Knit to next marker, sm, k36 (38, 41, 43, 45), place previous 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Neckline, knit to end of round. [138 (140, 146, 152, 154) stitches: 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) stitches for each Left and Right Front, 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) stitches for Back, 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
Cut yarn.
Slip the following markers and stitches from left needle to right needle: slip end-of-round marker, slip 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) Left Sleeve stitches, sm, slip 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) Left Front stitches (you are now next to on-hold Front Neckline stitches).
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work part way through each row rather than continuing to the end of the row. For extra help, see both the Notes section and our Short Rows Tutorial.
NOTE: The stitch marker at the Back Left of the Body will now serve as a raglan marker instead of the end-of-round marker. The Front Neckline now marks the ends of the row.
With right side facing you, join yarn to Right Front stitches…
Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last stitch, wrp-t. [130 (132, 138, 144, 146) stitches: 17 (17, 18, 18, 18) stitches for each Front, 52 (54, 58, 60, 62) stitches for Back, 22 (22, 22, 24, 24) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to last stitch, wrp-t.
Short Row 3: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 5 stitches, wrp-t. [122 (124, 130, 136, 138) stitches: 16 (16, 17, 17, 17) stitches for each Front, 50 (52, 56, 58, 60) stitches for Back, 20 (20, 20, 22, 22) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 4: Purl to last 5 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 5: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 8 stitches, wrp-t. [114 (116, 122, 128, 130) stitches: 15 (15, 16, 16, 16) stitches for each Front, 48 (50, 54, 56, 58) stitches for Back, 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 6: Purl to last 8 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 7: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) stitches, wrp-t. [106 (108, 114, 120, 122) stitches: 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) stitches for each Front, 46 (48, 52, 54, 56) stitches for Back,16 (16, 16, 18, 18) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 8: Purl to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 9: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 3 times, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, wrp-t. [100 (102, 108, 114, 116) stitches: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) stitches for Right Front, 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) stitches for Right Sleeve, 44 (46, 50, 52, 54) stitches for Back, 15 (15, 15, 17, 17) stitches for Left Sleeve, 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 10: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Short Row 11: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 2 times, k1, wrp-t. [96 (98, 104, 110, 112) stitches: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) stitches for Right Front, 13 (13, 13, 15, 15) stitches for Right Sleeve, 42 (44, 48, 50, 52) stitches for Back, 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) stitches for Left Sleeve, 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 12: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, p3, wrp-t.
Short Row 13: Working the wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them, [k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker] 2 times, k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of row. [90 (92, 98, 104, 106) stitches: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) stitches for each Front, 40 (42, 46, 48, 50) stitches for Back, 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) stitches for each Sleeve]
Neckband
NOTE: Change to shorter circular needles.
Place a unique marker to indicate the end of round.
Round 1: With the right side facing you, knit the 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) on-hold Front Neckline stitches, knit to end of round, working the remaining wrapped stitches with their wraps and removing the remaining raglan markers as you come to them. [108 (112, 120, 128, 132) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 3 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch…* Use the tip of the right needle to pick up the purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch, place it on left needle, knit the next stitch and the picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 2 rounds.
Bind off all stitches loosely.
Finish
Use Kitchener Stitch to graft the Underarm stitches together.
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
PRINT
Hi, I’m a beginner knitter. Can you please help me figure out how to lengthen the sleeves? From my shoulder I’d like it to be 24.5″.
Hello Shannon,
Thank you for reaching out! This should be pretty simple- When you get to the part of the pattern that says “continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 16 ¾ (16 ¾, 17, 17 ½, 17 ¾) inches from cast-on edge.”- you can just continue to knit until it is the desired length.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Marilla
I have a question. I’m at the ‘shape neckline and shoulders’ section and I have 24 stitches for each sleeve, but 58 each for front and back instead of the listed 56. Help!
Hello Candi,
Thank you for contacting us- we have all been there! Because you only have to extra stitches it shouldn’t be a big deal to just decrease two stitches. If I were you I would k2tog on the right side of your sweater and ssk on the left side of your sweater. I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
I ran into a problem when doing the short rows. After I finished, there is a wider gap at the marked side… by quite a bit. I do the math, dividing the total number of stitches in half (for each side) and it doesn’t seem to work out but no one else seems to be having this problem. Am I missing something? I am making a size 40. After doing the first round of short rows, I knit 93 and did all the second side short rows before discovering the discrepancy on the sides. Trying to figure out where I went wrong I added up the number of stitches and it still doesn’t seem to come out mathematically…
Sorry~ my bad. I frogged it and figured out that my problem was with the short rows. I was working with German short rows and doing my w&t on one stitch too soon. I think that’s my problem… I’ll see what happens now.
Please let me know how this goes! I seem to be having a similar problem.
Lovely pattern, but I managed to use a different yarn a a completely different gauge – foolhardy non?! Finished the sweater and didn’t like the front raglans, they were too poufy, so being the good Sewist (!) I pinned and have deduced I need to decrease more in the front raglan seams. Ripped out 52 rows! Gosh, sorry, I’m getting to the question!
The neckline had horrible holes where I joined the stitches previously held on the holder. Think I accidentally pulled the loose yarn ends which tightened them in parts. I just don’t want to risk holes at that neckline join again.
Is there anything I should look out for when joining? Is this a common problem with joins like this?
Very tempted to try this in a fine wool, but need a V neck option, here I go free styling again!
Hi Lesley,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! How very brave and exciting! Holes when joining back in tend to be caused by pulling a bit too tightly. You can try easing up a bit at the join points. Additionally, you can always fix small holes after the fact by duplicate stitching over the hole or sewing them up on the back side using some scraps of your yarn.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello! I have been knitting since my grandmother taught me at six years old. I’m now twenty four years old and this will be my first sweater! Before I begin, I already have US size 4 circular needles but they’re only 29 inches long. I am making the 36 inch sweater, will these needles be too short?
Thank you for your time!
Tori
Hi Victoria,
How lovely to have been taught by your grandmother! For the size that you are making, a 29″ long needle will work fine. You will still need the 16″ needles and well as the DPNs but as far as the longest needle, I think that you should be all set!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Thanks for such a timely reply! My linen qill comes in on Thursday and I cannot wait to begin!
Tori
hi! thank you guys for lovely free pattern.
maybe you can help me to figure out “raglan decrease”. i’m making 36 size and after joined the sleeves and started “raglan decrease round” (for all sizes) i’ve noticed that decreasing only sleeves (i suspect i’ve placed the markers wrong). after [8 stitches decreased] i still have 112 stitches for each Front and Back and 76 stitches for each sleeve. do you have any suggestions what i can do at this point?
greetings from ukraine:)
Magdalena
reading through your comments and replies i’ve realized that it’s not the markers. i’ve been doing decrease wrongly (4 stitches for one round).
although, can you please clarify how to decrease 8 stitches in one round?
thank you,
M
Hi Magalena,
Thanks for writing in! I sometimes find that it is helpful to write out an expanded version of a round. The Raglan Decrease Round reads: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Expanded, it will read: K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm.
In the above, I have bolded the decreases. In each repeat, you decrese 1 at the begining and 1 at the end, repeating the repeat 4 times for a total of 8 stitches decreased.
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
Thank you very much, Cassy!
Hi,
I started this project a couple months back and have just come back to it and have lost my notes. I am trying to figure out which short row “row” I was on so I don’t have to redo the bottom shaping. I have about 2.5″ from the longest portion of the body for a size 36. I am sure I was in the middle of shaping one side of the sweater.
MY question is how are you supposed to count the number of short rows you’ve completed and know which row you are on the “SHAPE BOTTOM EDGE”? I know I need to count the number of rows, but I am not sure which stitch I should count from.
Hi Dhruvi,
Thanks for writing in! Figuring out where you are can be a bit complicated but it can be done. You will want to count the number of stitches between the most recently finished wrap and turn and the last one. You can then work out which short row you were on by counting how many you should have based on each short row. For example, the first short row for the size 36, you knit 84 stitches and then wrap and turn. For the second row, you purl 42 stitches and then wrap and turn. Then for row 3, you knit to the wrap and turn and knit the stitch with its paired wrap and knit 4 stitches further. Now there should be 47 stitches between the wraps.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’d like to start by saying that this pattern is fantastic and the linen quill is absolutely heavenly to work with!
I’ve completed both sleeves, however I am on my third attempt at the short rows for the bottom of the body. They are coming out fantastic, up until the front and back meet at the sides. I keep ending up with a large gap on both sides and I can’t figure out why! Are there any tips or tricks for this?
Best,
Tori
Hi Tori,
Thanks for writing in and thank you for your kind words! We love Linen Quill too!
With this lovely sweater, there two bottoms will not meet in a flat continuous fashion. When connecting them, they will swoop up to meet each other to a point in the middle. It could be that you are pulling a bit too tight or a bit too loosely on the stitches nearest the sides. It might be easier to understand what is happening if you were able to send us an image. If you can, please do so to customerservice@purlsoho.com and we will do our best to help you figure out how best to proceed!
Best,
Cassy
hi! I knitted this raglan pattern last fall and LOVED it. am trying the striped spring shirt now and would like the sleeves and bottom to have the same finish as this pattern with the cording stitch to prevent rolling.
I can just follow these instructions for the main body hem but since the sleeves are worked top down on that pattern I am a bit at a loss. is there a way to finish the sleeves on that pattern the same way?
thank you!
Hi Elise,
Thanks for writing in and for your very kind words! You can certainly give the cording stitch a go on your Striped Spring Shirt. While I have not worked cording stitch top down, the principle should still hold and the look should not be too different. I would give it a go as you would have worked it in this pattern being sure to knit a few more rounds after the cording round.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Help! I’m working on the Neckband section and can’t figure out how to pick up the wrapped stitches that come after knitting the 20 on-hold Front Neckline stitches. I was able to pick up the previous wrapped stitches before I hit the 20 neckline stitches with no problem, but now I think I’m knitting toward wraps that I made on the purl side and when I try to pick them up, big holes appear. If I were approaching these wraps from the purl side, I would know how to pick them up, but since I’m coming at them from the knit side, I’m not sure what to do. Any advice?
Hi Kelsey,
Thanks for writing in! Picking up wraps that were completed on the purl side can be a bit tricky at first but it need not create holes! Using the right hand needle, you will pick up the wrap, placing it next to the wrapped stitch on the left hand needle and then you will knit the wrap together with its wrapped stitch. This should prevent holes from forming while still picking up the wrap!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am having the same issue as Kelsey. The way you described it is if you were picking up the wrap on the purl side. The issue is I am trying to pick up a purl-side wrap on the knit side to join the on hold stitches with the rest of the round. When you are looking at the stitch while knitting, the purl wrapped stitch is wrapped around the right side of the stitch, making it too tight to pick it up and put it on the left needle. At least I can’t figure out how to do it that way. It seems like you would need to do a different type of wrapped stitch in order to join in the round. I could pick up the other wraps, but this is the wrap from the 2nd short row. Any suggestions? Thanks! Other than this issue, this has been a fun pattern to knit!
Hi Meghan,
Thanks for writing in! Picking up wraps made on the purl side while knitting on the knit side can be a bit confusing. In general, you pick them up in the same fashion that you would a wrap made on the knit side. This does mean that you will be able to see the wrap. There are alternate short row types that hide the wraps. I hear that German Short Rows do this quite well, but we do not have a tutorial for these type of short rows.
For the wrapped purls, you will want to knit to the wrapped purl stitch and using the right-hand needle, pick up the wrap from the front of your work placing it on the left needle over the stitch that it was wrapped around and then knitting those two stitches together. If the wrap is too tight to do this, you may have pulled the wrap a bit too tight as you were knitting or purling initially. You can try picking it up with a smaller gauge needle, just being sure to transfer the 2 stitches that are knit together as one back to your regular needle to even out the gauge. This should help you from having to rip back to reknit the short rows.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’d love to have this sweater pattern sized for kids!
Hi Vanessa,
Thanks for writing in! We certainly appreciate the suggest and will keep it in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
is it common for people’s tension to be looser in the short row section on bottom? i’m finding my gauge to be quite different from my swatch gauge and wondering if it’s due to loose purling…
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! It is possible that short rows can change your gauge a bit. I would do another gauge swatch to be sure you aren’t just knitting a bit looser or tighter than when you started. That a common issue for a lot of knitters!
Best,
Carly
I have a question about Short Row 12 for the neck shaping. I am making the 36 inch size and I just want to confirm how many stitches should be remaining when I do the wrp-t. As I read the instructions I have 24 stitches remaining when the wrp-t occurs on the purl side. However on Row 11 it came with 18 stitches. Can you confirm for me?
Thank you – I am so excited to finish this sweater as it has been a full year of work.
Hello Rachel,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations on almost being finished with your sweater! Just to confirm you are talking about the number of stitches left on each side of your row during the wrap and turns?
Once you start to only decrease on one side of the sleeves rather than both the number on either side will be deferent. You should have 18 stitches on the left side for row 9 and 16 stitches on the right side for row 10. When you get to row 11 you will have 13 stitches for Right Front, 13 stitches for Right Sleeve, 44stitches for Back, 14 stitches for Left Sleeve, 14 stitches for Left Front. This means that you will do a wrap and turn when you have 25 stitches left, because you have 14 stitches for the front left and you have 14 total stitches for your left sleeve, and you just k1, ssk, k1, which leaves 11 stitches and 11 plus 14 = 25. For row 12 you will have 26 sts.
I know this is a lot and I hope it makes sense and please feel free to reach out if you need any clarification
Warmly,
Marilla
This is such a beautiful sweater! Do you have any plans to make a baby/toddler version of this? Or could you recommend a similar baby/toddler pattern? Thank you!
Hello Chelsea,
Thank you for reaching out and for such kind words! We do not have a baby/toddler version of this pattern, but I will certainly pass along your request! We do have a couple of lovely baby sweaters, I would check out our Easy Pullover or our Purl Soho Pullover.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there! Do you have anything you do differently when joining yarn in the round in an airy knit like this? What’s your preferred method for joining yarn in the round?
Hello Jessica,
Thank you for reaching out! You will join your yarn in the round just like any other yarn for this project, just join and knit, no special technique require. 🙂
Happ knitting!
-Marilla
I am making this in size 36 and ordered 3 skeins. I’d like to make it a little longer than called for in the pattern…maybe 2 inches longer. Should I order another skein of linen quill?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! We recommend having 1,210 yards for the size 36, which is about 2.75 skeins of Linen Quill. I think you should have enough spare yardage for your extra length, but if in doubt, you can order another skein, and as long as it is unwound you can exchange it for store credit.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I know that as soon as I read your answer to my question, it will be really obvious. Right now, I just can’t visualize it. I’m on the short rows. I knitted up a flat swatch to make sure I could do the wraps. I used a shadow wrap, all good, no holes. Short rows in the round. In reading the pattern, it looks like I knit the short rows of the front piece the sweater first, forming the shirt tail effect. How do you get to the back piece and start knitting the shirt tail there? Or are both shirt tails being done at the same time?
Hi Angela,
I think I can help! Each rounded hem is worked separately. After working Short Rows 1-28, on row 29, you will resolve the wrap and turn from the previous row, then continue knitting without turning to move on to the back of the sweater. You then repeat rows 2-29, which will create the curved hem on the back of the sweater. I hope that answers your question!
Regards,
Julianna
I need help! Question about the Raglan decrease round, with 8 stitches decreased. Do you you do round twice around to get 8? I am so confused!
Thank you, Crystal
Hi Crystal,
Thanks for writing in! I sometimes find that it is helpful to write out an expanded version of a round. The Raglan Decrease Round reads: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Expanded, it will read: K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm.
In the above, I have bolded the decreases. In each repeat, you decrese 1 at the begining and 1 at the end, repeating the repeat 4 times for a total of 8 stitches decreased.
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
But I am still confused , do you end up doing 2 rounds to get to the eight stitches? It appears to me this is the same decrease as sleeve but repeated to get to 8 is the correct?
Crystal
I just figured it out! Thanks so much!
Crystal
I love this sweater and have a single skein of the color I want to use. I’ll certainly need to order more, but it will be from a different dye lot. Do you think if I alternate skeins (every row or every few rows) I would be able to easily disguise that they’re from different dye lots? Would this sweater lend itself to doing that?
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! Alternating rows is a great way to disguise varying dye lots, and I think it would work especially well in a slightly textured and heathered yarn like our Linen Quill. I would wait until after the Wrap & Turn sections and then begin alternating skeins on every row. When you order, however, please let us know in the order notes what dye lot you already have so we can check our warehouse just in case we have a few more skeins of the same lot!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! Could this sweater be made with the Mulberry Merino? I am concerned that my skin may be too sensitive for the linen quill. Or do you have any other recommendations for yarn choices that would be softer? I also love the black green color option for merino. Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately Mulberry Merino is quite a bit thicker than Linen Quill so it would not be a good substitute. Linen Quill does soften up quite a bit after washing and wearing a few times, but we do also have plenty of fingering weight options that may be more up your alley! I would recommend taking a look at our Line Weight, Woolfolk Tynd and Sno, or Manos del Uruguay Fino to see if you prefer any of those fibers.
Good luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! Would it be possible for you to tell me the finished length of the sleeve from the neckband to the cuff for the size 36 sweater? Thanks!
Hello Toni,
Thank you for reaching out! We just measured our sample in the shop and the length from the neckband down to the bottom of the sleeve is about 24.5″.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m making this sweater right now and not having many problems. However I’ve been knitting for many years and honestly? This sweater would have been much easier to read, work, and understand if it had been designed as a top-down.
Hi Shawna,
Thanks for reaching out! While we currently don’t have any plans for a top down version of this sweater and many knitters have been successful with the pattern, I will pass your thoughts on to the design team to consider for future projects. Thanks again for the great suggestion!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I am looking to make this pattern and am confused on which size to make. My bust is 36″, and I couldn’t tell if the size 36 would fit alright or if I should go up to size 40. I like my sweaters slightly oversized, maybe just 1 or 2 inches of positive ease.
Thanks!
Hi Ally,
Thanks for reaching out! I think the size 40 might be a better fit – a sweater with zero ease tends to be very form fitting, and based on your measurements, the size 40 would within our recommendation of one to four inches of positive ease. If you are still in doubt, I would recommend measuring a lightweight sweater you already own that fits you well to see which size is closest to a sweater you are already happy with.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Do you know if it would be possible to use a seed stitch on this pattern? If so, would you suggest just the front and back or the entire project? Would I have to get additional yarn?
I’m also considering a shorter sleeve…perhaps to the elbow?
I’d love your thoughts and feedback.
Thank you so very much!!
Hi Suzan,
Thanks for writing in! Although you will definitely need to knit a gauge swatch when making such a major alteration to the pattern, Seed Stitch usually has a similar stitch gauge to Stockinette Stitch, so I think you may be able to get the correct gauge and proceed with the pattern without too many changes! You may find that your Seed Stitch swatch has more rows per inch than stockinette, which is less important for the fit of the sweater than the stitch gauge, but will affect your yardage. I would recommend purchasing an extra skein of Linen Quill just in case! Design elements are entirely up to you – I think the sweater would look equally gorgeous in either allover seed stitch or thoughtfully placed panels!
Unfortunately, shortening the sleeves is quite a bit trickier as they are knit from the cuff up and would require rewriting the entire sleeve pattern, which we are unable to do through the comments. We will however keep that idea in mind for future designs!
Best of luck and please let us know how your seed stitch sweater turns out!
Julianna
I feel like I’m going crazy. I’ve been knitting for years and I wouldn’t say my tension as a knitter is loose. I’m using Linen Quill, size 4 US needles, and making an extra small and yet my sleeves are massive! I now my gauge must be off since I’m more than half-way done with the first sleeve and my circumference is measuring at 14″. Is all hope lost and I should go down to a size 2? Has anyone else had this issue?
Hello Clarice,
Thank you for reaching out! The first step to finding a solution to this is to measure your gauge, just to be sure it is in fact a gauge issues. Once you have done this you will need to go down in needle size until you are getting 28 stitches and 33 rows per 4 inches in stockinette stitch. For the most accurate measurement I would recommend knitting your gauge swatch in the round.
I hope this helps- let us know how it goes or if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hey 🙂 I am really excited about this sweater! I have finished the sleeves and they came out nicely and have done all the short rows plus 2 regular stockinette rows, and the bottom won’t stop rolling 🙁 what do I do? Is it going to do this forever?
Hi Jamie,
Thanks for reaching out and for the kind words! Although the sweater does have a tiny rolled edge, the Cording Stitch worked around the hem and sleeves should minimize this effect, as will blocking! If you are concerned, I would suggest putting your stitches on scrap yarn and steam blocking the hem to make sure you will be happy with the finished hem. If it still rolls too much for your liking, you could always substitute an inch or so of garter stitch before beginning the short rows.
I hope that helps!
Julianna