A circular raglan pullover is a wonderfully empowering thing for first-time sweater knitters. Creating one is like receiving a decoder ring for sweater-making. It unlocks secret geometries and makes simple sense of what is, after all, a pretty complicated garment.
Who knew you could knit three tubes (i.e. 2 sleeves and a body) and then join them together into a larger tube (i.e. a yoke)!?! From there, regular “raglan” decreases shape the shoulders, from the underarms to the neckline. And in our Lightweight Raglan Pullover, subtle details, like cording stitch edges and short row shaping, give beginners a good challenge and keep experts interested.
Purl Soho’s Linen Quill effortlessly elevates this simple sweater into something truly special. Its blend of wool, alpaca, and linen gives the Lightweight Raglan Pullover a soft bloom, a beautiful drape, and a unique look.
Whether this is your first sweater or your hundredth, I hope you enjoy the magic. No matter how many new tricks I learn, I turn to this intuitive construction method time and time again, loving how it unlocks the world of sweater-knitting! -Laura
Materials
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, 15% linen. We used the color Oatmeal Gray.
- US 4, 32 or 40-inch circular needles, depending on sweater size
- US 4, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 4, double pointed needles
- 4 stitch markers, including 1 of a unique color or shape for end of round
- 5 stitch holders or scrap yarn
YARN UPDATE: For a fantastic alternative to Linen Quill, try our Cattail Silk! It has a very subtle shine, a wonderfully earthy texture, and a casual spin speckled by little nubs of color. It comes in a stunning array of colors and is 618 yards per skein… which means, to make this Lightweight Linen Raglan, you’d just need 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins!
Gauge
28 stitches and 33 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
32 (36, 40, 44, 48)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-47) inches, with 1-4 inches of positive ease.
- Finished Chest Circumference: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge of Back: 22 ¼ (23 ¼, 24 ¼, 25 ½, 26 ¾) inches
- Finished Length of Armhole: 8 ¾ (9 ¼, 9 ¾, 10 ½, 11) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge (measured at side): 10 (10 ½, 11, 11 ½, 12 ¼) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16 ¾ (16 ¾, 17, 17 ½, 17 ¾) inches
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 36 inches, modeled with 3 inches of ease.
Notes
Wrp-t (wrap and turn):
- On the right side: Keeping the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
- On the wrong side: Keeping the yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Turn the work so the right side is facing you.
Pattern
Sleeves
Cast 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) stitches onto three double pointed needles.
Place marker (pm) and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 8 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch…
*Use the tip of the right needle to pick up the purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch…
…Place it on left needle, knit the next stitch and the picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 1 inch from cast-on edge.
Shape Sleeve
Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, while repeating the Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) times. [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 16 ¾ (16 ¾, 17, 17 ½, 17 ¾) inches from cast-on edge.
Next Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing end-of-round marker, knit to end. [76 (80, 86, 90, 96) stitches remain]
Cut yarn.
Place remaining stitches on scrap yarn and set aside. This will be the Right Sleeve.
Make the Left Sleeve the same as the Right Sleeve, but leave the 76 (80, 86, 90, 96)Sleeve stitches on the double pointed needles. Set aside.
Body
Cast 224 (252, 280, 308, 336) stitches onto the longer circular needles.
Place unique marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 8 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch…* Use the tip of the right needle to pick up the purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch, place it on left needle, knit the next stitch and the picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
Shape Bottom Edge
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each round rather than continuing to the end of the round. For extra help, see both the Notes section and our Short Rows Tutorial.
Short Row 1 (right side): K75 (84, 93, 103, 112), wrap and turn (wrp-t).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): P38 (42, 46, 52, 56), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (4, 5, 5, 6), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (4, 5, 5, 6), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 6: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Rows 7-12: Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 three more times.
Short Row 13: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (2, 2, 3, 3), wrp-t.
Short Row 14: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (2, 2, 3, 3), wrp-t.
Short Rows 15-20: Repeat Short Rows 13 and 14 three more times.
Short Row 21: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1 (1, 1, 1, 2), wrp-t.
Short Row 22: Purl to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1 (1, 1, 1, 2), wrp-t.
Short Rows 23-28: Repeat Short Rows 21 and 22 three more times.
Short Row 29: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k75 (84, 93, 103, 112), wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 2 through 28 once more.
Next Short Row: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round.
Continue Body
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 13 ½ (14, 14 ½, 15, 15 ¾) inches from cast-on edge (measured at longest point, either at center of Back or center of Front).
Separate Front + Back
Round 1: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Underarm, removing end-of-round marker, k112 (126, 140, 154, 168), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm, knit to Left Underarm (next stitch holder). [204 (224, 244, 264, 284) stitches remain: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) stitches for each Front and Back]
Yoke
Join Sleeves
Round 1: With the working yarn from the Body, knit 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) Left Sleeve stitches onto Body’s circular needles, pm, knit 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) Front stitches, pm, slip on-hold Right Sleeve stitches onto spare needles and then knit those 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) stitches onto Body’s circular needles, pm, knit 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) Back stitches, place unique marker for end-of-round. [356 (384, 416, 444, 476) stitches: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) stitches for each Front and Back, 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) stitches for each Sleeve]
Begin Shaping Raglan
FOR SIZE 32 INCHES ONLY:
Next Round: Knit.
Sleeve Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat the last 2 rounds once more. [348 (–, –, –, –) stitches: 102 (–, –, –, –) stitches for each of Front and Back, 72 (–, –, –, –) stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Round: Knit.
FOR SIZES 36 AND 40 INCHES ONLY:
Next Round: Knit.
FOR SIZES 44 AND 48 INCHES ONLY:
Next Round: Knit.
Body Decrease Round: [Knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Body Decrease Round – (–, –, 2, 3) more times. [– (–, –, 432, 460) stitches: – (–, –, 126, 134) stitches for each Front and Back, – (–, –, 90, 96) stitches for each Sleeve]
FOR ALL SIZES:
Raglan Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Raglan Decrease Round every round 0 (0, 2, 4, 6) more times, then every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) more times. [156 (160, 168, 176, 180) stitches: 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) stitches for each Front and Back, 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
Shape Neckline + Shoulders
Set-Up Round: Knit to next marker, sm, k36 (38, 41, 43, 45), place previous 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Neckline, knit to end of round. [138 (140, 146, 152, 154) stitches: 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) stitches for each Left and Right Front, 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) stitches for Back, 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
Cut yarn.
Slip the following markers and stitches from left needle to right needle: slip end-of-round marker, slip 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) Left Sleeve stitches, sm, slip 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) Left Front stitches (you are now next to on-hold Front Neckline stitches).
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work part way through each row rather than continuing to the end of the row. For extra help, see both the Notes section and our Short Rows Tutorial.
NOTE: The stitch marker at the Back Left of the Body will now serve as a raglan marker instead of the end-of-round marker. The Front Neckline now marks the ends of the row.
With right side facing you, join yarn to Right Front stitches…
Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last stitch, wrp-t. [130 (132, 138, 144, 146) stitches: 17 (17, 18, 18, 18) stitches for each Front, 52 (54, 58, 60, 62) stitches for Back, 22 (22, 22, 24, 24) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to last stitch, wrp-t.
Short Row 3: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 5 stitches, wrp-t. [122 (124, 130, 136, 138) stitches: 16 (16, 17, 17, 17) stitches for each Front, 50 (52, 56, 58, 60) stitches for Back, 20 (20, 20, 22, 22) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 4: Purl to last 5 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 5: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 8 stitches, wrp-t. [114 (116, 122, 128, 130) stitches: 15 (15, 16, 16, 16) stitches for each Front, 48 (50, 54, 56, 58) stitches for Back, 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 6: Purl to last 8 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 7: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) stitches, wrp-t. [106 (108, 114, 120, 122) stitches: 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) stitches for each Front, 46 (48, 52, 54, 56) stitches for Back,16 (16, 16, 18, 18) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 8: Purl to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 9: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 3 times, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, wrp-t. [100 (102, 108, 114, 116) stitches: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) stitches for Right Front, 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) stitches for Right Sleeve, 44 (46, 50, 52, 54) stitches for Back, 15 (15, 15, 17, 17) stitches for Left Sleeve, 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 10: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Short Row 11: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 2 times, k1, wrp-t. [96 (98, 104, 110, 112) stitches: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) stitches for Right Front, 13 (13, 13, 15, 15) stitches for Right Sleeve, 42 (44, 48, 50, 52) stitches for Back, 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) stitches for Left Sleeve, 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 12: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, p3, wrp-t.
Short Row 13: Working the wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them, [k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker] 2 times, k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of row. [90 (92, 98, 104, 106) stitches: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) stitches for each Front, 40 (42, 46, 48, 50) stitches for Back, 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) stitches for each Sleeve]
Neckband
NOTE: Change to shorter circular needles.
Place a unique marker to indicate the end of round.
Round 1: With the right side facing you, knit the 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) on-hold Front Neckline stitches, knit to end of round, working the remaining wrapped stitches with their wraps and removing the remaining raglan markers as you come to them. [108 (112, 120, 128, 132) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 3 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch…* Use the tip of the right needle to pick up the purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch, place it on left needle, knit the next stitch and the picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 2 rounds.
Bind off all stitches loosely.
Finish
Use Kitchener Stitch to graft the Underarm stitches together.
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
PRINT
Do you have a suggestion for a Purl Soho yarn other than Linen Quill. I’d like cotton if possible. Thank you!
Hi Teri,
Thanks so much for writing us! Unfortunately we don’t carry a Purl Soho yarn in a cotton thin enough for this pattern. I suggest trying the Habu Bamboo if you are looking for a plant fiber substitute for this pattern.
All the best,
Adam
Hello! I’m almost ready to venture into making my first sweater, and have decided that this pattern will be my guide! I love it! Can this sweater be made using Cotton Pure instead of Linen Quill? It looks doable, but a professional opinion is always appreciated. Thank you!
Hi Morgan,
Thanks for writing in! That’s so exciting that you are choosing this pattern as your first sweater! Unfortunately Cotton Pure and Linen Quill don’t have the same gauge. This means you can’t use the cotton as a substitute unless you want to change the pattern. For your first sweater I suggest you use the yarn suggested and that you do your gauge swatch in the round to ensure everything goes smoothly.
All the best,
Adam
Ok, cool. Thank you! Last question- I’m wanting to make the size 40, and for shaping the raglan, the direction under sizes 36 and 40 is to knit one round. The other sizes have directions for body decreasing, but 36 and 40 don’t. What are the instructions for those two sizes? Thanks so much!
Hi Morgan,
Thanks for writing back! At the raglan shaping section you’ll follow directions for your size and then go to the section “all sizes” for further instructions on how to shape the raglan. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Can you explain where you’re losing stitches when you go from setting up the edge of the sweater body with 224 stitches to when you finish the edge shaping and end up with 204 stitches? So its even, I’m assuming you lose 10 stitches on each side (front and back) but where are you losing them? I’m asking so I can figure out how I lost 16 on the first side and 35 on the second :`(
Hi Elisabeth,
Thanks for the question! This portion of the pattern is in the “separate for front and back” section. In this part you are putting 10 stitches each side on scrap yarn or stitch holders. These will mark your underarms and will be grafted with kitchener stitch at the very end. Hope this clears everything up!
-Adam
Actually Adam, I just realized what I did. I read knit the stitch and wrap together as knit the two stitches together so I’ve been decreasing the whole time 🙁
Hello I am a beginner knitter and I would love to knit this sweater. Do you think a beginner would be able to knit this? What degree of difficulty do you think this is and why? It looks pretty straight forward to me but that does not mean anything lol until I start.
Thank you,
Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! This lovely sweater can give a beginner knitter a good challenge while being achievable. I would say that the most challenging portion of this pattern could be the cording stitch. It can be a bit tricky but with a little practice, you can master it. I would suggest reading through the whole pattern and make sure that you are comfortable with the techniques used. The comments section can also be a great resource to answer questions that you may have that other knitters have already asked! I would then knit a few swatches and if you are feeling confident, go for it! We are always here to help out!
Best,
Cassy
Beautiful pattern, and I would like to knit this one, but would definitely want to modify the front neckline to be much lower. I have already knitted too many sweaters that I either given away or don’t wear because of the high neckline.
Any suggestion of how to go about this modification?
Thanks so much for all your wonderful, creative and stylish designs, penny
Hi Penny,
Thank you for writing in. Changing the neckline on this is a bit tricky and you might have to try a few times before you get it. I suggest you put your front neck stitches on hold earlier and short row the neckline further than the original pattern. At the same time you’ll be decreasing at the raglan points as well. Best of luck and happy knitting!
Adam
Ideally with warm weather coming I’d like to make it in a blend with more linen content. I’m sensitive to alpaca so Quill is not an option for me. Found the print icon which produces a pdf so all is well. Still would love to see a linen blend yarn in a lighter weight – sport or fingering. This is a lovely design.
Hello Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! Happy to hear you found the PDF option. I think the best substitute with a higher linen content would be Kalinka 21. It is 55 percent linen and 44 percent wool.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Unfortunately I am traveling and without my “research tools”😆I started the body of the sweater and am at the shapping body with short rows. I understand basically how to turn the short rows ..your instructions are great as is your tutorial but I don’t understand how the short rows move to shape on the other side of the sweater I am through rows 6-8
Btw I guess you can tell I’m new to this is my first really big sweater😍
Thanks for any assistance
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! Short row 29 will get you to the other side of your short row section. It reads as follows:
Short Row 29: Knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, k75 (84, 93, 103, 112), wrp-t.
The k75 (84, 93, 103, 112) after working the wrap on the short row side you’ve been knitting will get you to the other side of the garment, close to the beginning of round marker. After short row 29 you’ll repeat short rows 2-28 again. Hope this makes sense!
-Adam
Hello!
How many rows do you knit on the sleeve before you start casting on? On the pattern it just says: “Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 1 inch from cast-on edge.”
Stupidly, I assumed that meant one inch from the desired end of armpit to cuff so I’ve knit 15 3/4 inches and now realize my mistake!
Thanks for you help!
Gertrude
Hi Gertrude,
Thanks for writing in. Unfortunately I don’t quite understand your question. If you’ve already started knitting, then you’ve definite cast on. Do you mean to ask when you increase? Or the cording stitch? Let me know!
-Adam
I am a beginner knittting this sweater and I have certainly bit off more than I can do! Thankfully I have friends that knit that can help me, but the are not available right now and I am having problems with the following instruction:
FOR ALL SIZES:
Raglan Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Raglan Decrease Round every round 0 (0, 2, 4, 6) more times, then every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) more times. [156 (160, 168, 176, 180) stitches: 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) stitches for each Front and Back, 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
I am knitting a size 40. By my count after I do the “Raglan Decrease Round” I should have 408 Stitches. If I do the math correctly for the next instruction, “repeat the Raglan Decrease Round 2 more times”, that brings me to 400. Then for every other round of 28 rows, that would decrease only 14 rows since it is every other row, amounting to only 56 decreases. This leaves me with 344 stitches, not 168.
I am hoping I am explaining this clearly and you can help.
Thank you, Zoë
HI Zoe,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I see where the confusion may be occurring! When the pattern says to repeat the decrease round “every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) more times,” you will be knitting the decrease row 28 more times for your size but knitting a row in between each decrease. That is to say that you repeat the decrease round 28 more times as noted but you will also be knitting a straight round between each decrease round. This should get you to the correct number of stitches!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Would the new Purl Cattail Silk yarn work with this pattern? Thx!
Hello Lisa,
Thanks for writing in. This sweater would be beautiful in the Cattail Silk! I would still knit a gauge swatch before jumping in, but I say go for it.
-Marilla
Hello! Is there a video clip of the I cord stitch that I can watch? Just want to make sure I am doing it correctly.
Hi Allison,
Thanks for writing in! We do not have a video for the cording stitch but we will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
Hi Purl Soho,
I love knitting w linen quill but wld prefer a yarn w more variation in color for this sweater. Wld koigu kpppm work for this pattern?
If yes, for a size L (40), wld 9 skeins cover it? ( linen quill 439 yds, kpppm 175).
If kpppm is not such a great idea, do you have any other suggestions?
Thanks!
Hello,
I’m happy to hear you enjoy Linen Quill as much as we do. You can certainly make this sweater in Koigu kpppm, though I would get 10 skeins for size L(40). Good luck with your project and let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I have started back in knitting after many years. I have made sweaters before but short rows are new to me. I have started this part of the sweater and have ripped my work out three times so far. I cant seem to find my wrapped stritches when I make them. Why are we doing the short rows ie. what are we forming ( ie normally they are in the shoulders etc.) Is this a “dart in the side of the sweater. Maybe if I understand what I am forming this would help too. I know Im wrapping correctly, I have looked at your instructions and watched videos on technique. I just cant seem to find the wrapped stitches.
Thanks!
Hi Jennifer,
So sorry you are having problems with this part of the pattern. The short rows at the bottom are for curving the hem and the short rows around the neck are for forming the neckline. The neckline short rows are used instead of decreasing and we use this method because it’s easier to incorporate the cording stitch. If you are having trouble detecting the wraps, you can set a marker each time you wrap and turn so you’ll know exactly where it is. Hope this helps!
Adam
Hi!
Im about 10 inches up to body, and am loving the pattern, however when I compare my knitting with the photos above I have a lot more curling at the bottom cord than is shown here.
Has the partially complete body in the photos already been blocked?
Should I be measuring the length of the body taking into account the curl? Or should I be measuring it flattened out?
Thanks!
Hi Samantha,
Not to worry, when working in stockinnette stitch it does tend to curl at the bottom due to the knit stitches being all on one side, this will diminish greatly as soon as it is blocked. When you measure the length of the body you just want to flatten out the curled edge to get the correct measurement.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Hi,
First sweater I have knitted in a long time so I am very rusty.
In the directions, the Raglan decrease before the neck and shoulder every other round 27 times for the size I am making. Does that mean counting all the rows or just the decrease rows 27 times.
Thanks
Jen
Hello Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in!
When the pattern says to repeat the decrease round “every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) more times,” you will be knitting the decrease row 27 more times for your size but knitting a row in between each decrease. That is to say that you repeat the decrease round 27 more times as noted but you will also be knitting a straight round between each decrease round.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Hi! I’m working on this sweater with the yarn as shown. I’ve decided not to do the cording stitch at all. Is there any reason to use double pointed needles for the sleeves? Couldn’t I use the 16″ circulars? Thanks!
Hi Natasha,
Thanks for writing in! Most of the arm is smaller than 16 inches in circumference which will necessitate the use double pointed needles to achieve the corrected finished measurements. You could also try the magic loop method. We do not have a tutorial for it but there are many fine videos on YouTube if you are averse to using DPNs.
Best,
Cassy
I’m confused by this. It looks like two decreases rather than four. Can you explain in more details please?
“Sleeve Decrease Round: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]”
Thanks!!
Hello Laela,
Thanks for writing in! or this decrease round you will decrease a total of four times. You will knit the sequence within brackets two times which will complete one round. “[K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm] 2 times.” The two decrease stitches are ssk and k2tog. Since you will be doing each of these stitches twice- you will decrease a total of four stitches.
Let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi,
I am at the point of shape neckline + Shoulders. Does “set up round” mean anything special? I have started knitting, place the required stitches on the stitch holder and went to continue knitting but this causes all the stitches on the holder to loop when i continue knitting. It looks wrong and not like the picture. Something is not quite right.
Thanks
Jen
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! The set-up row at the Shape Neckline and Shoulders is the round where you place stitches on holders for the underarms and it sets you up to complete the raglan decreases for the neckline. After this round, you will cut your yarn and then rearrange the stitches on your needles as described. This should prevent the stitches on the holder from looping. IF you are still having difficulties pleas do let us know.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
it looks superb……..like it very much
If I’m not doing the cording stitch on the sleeves, can I use circular needles?
Hello Natasha,
Thanks for writing in – great question! The reason the sleeves are knit on double points it because of the circumference of the sleeves not because of the cording stitch so I would still suggest using double pointed needles for the sleeves.
I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Is it possible to do the sleeves simultaneously with magic loop?
Hello Emma,
Thanks for writing in. I don’t see why not – go for it!
-Marilla
Would it be possible to knit this pattern using German short rows instead of the wrap and turn method that is used in this pattern?
Hi Donna,
German short rows are a lovely substitute for the wrap and turn method. I think that as long as you are confident in that method you should give it a go!
Happy knitting!
Carly
I want to knit this in the Quill for my daughter-in-law. She measures 36″ bust. With the 1-4 positive ease what size should I knit?
Hi Patti,
For this pullover to fit the actual chest circumference you would want to knit for the size 40.
Have a great day,
Melissa
Laura how do i know what size of circular needle set to Buy?
Helen
Hello Helen,
Thank you for reaching out! The suggested needles for this project are US 4, 32 to 40-inch circular needles, depending on sweater size ( This pair is for the body of the sweater)
US 4, 16-inch circular needles (This pair is for the neck and tops of the sleeves) and a set of US 4, double pointed needles (for the sleeves).
I hope this clears things up!
-Marilla
Hi! Am contemplating this for my very first sweater (been knitting for years but am a very insecure knitter and scared of a full sweater!). I think I would knit a size 36 or 40. Would 4 skeins of the linen quill have enough yarn to do the recommended swatches as well (a circular one and a flat one)? Thanks!
Hello Kyla,
Thanks for writing in! I think this is a great first sweater and you will have plenty of yarn for a couple of swatches. Don’t hesitate to get in touch if you have any further questions. I have total confidence in your knitting abilities!
Warmly,
Marilla
I would like to try knitting this sweater for my son who wears 2T size clothes. Do you have measurements for this pattern in a toddler size?
Hi Lily,
Thanks for writing in! At present we do not have smaller sizes for this sweater but I will certainly communicate your wish to our design team.
Best,
Cassy
Hi, I was just wondering if you guys had the total yardage for each size?
Hi Taylor,
Thank you for writing in! We are happy to provide you with the yardage amounts. They are: 1070 (1210, 1365, 1555, 1740) yards.
Best,
Cassy
I’m in the final stages of this pattern, knitting a size 48, and I think I might run out of yarn before completing. I am about to begin the shape neckline and shoulders step and have ball of yarn roughly the size of a large apple left! I’m sure you can’t answer this for certain, but is there a lot of variation in the linen quill dye batches? I am knitting in the gray denim color. I may need to order an additional skein :/
Hello Kate,
Thanks for writing in! Have you completed the arms already? From my experience Linen Quill has been pretty consistent with its yardage. From what you have said I would guess that you will have enough yarn to complete this sweater, however if you are concerned you can always get an extra skein and return it for store credit within six months unwound.
I hope this is helpful and good luck!
-Marilla
I have completed the arms. I’m just about to start the short row process at the top of the sweater. I’ll keep on, and thanks for your response!
Kate
Hello,
I’m finishing off the first sleeve and I’m a bit confused with this portion, “K7, place previous 14 stitches on stitch holder, removing end of round marker”… Are the new K7 stitches part of the “previous 14” or are you placing 14 stitches from the last round?
Appreciate the help!
Jenny
Hello Jenny,
Thanks for writing us! It includes the 7 stitches you just knit. You will place the previous 14 stitches onto a stitch maker from where you are in the row when the instructions are given.
I hope this makes sense and please let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi,
Can you help me with the short rows please. Row 28 of the short rows creates a wrapped stitch. Row 29 and the last short row knit through the row 27 wrapped stitches. Normally the purl side short rows (as row 28 is) would have the wrapped stitch purled out in the following purl row, but there is no following purl row as the pattern goes on to knit in the round. I’m left with two purl side wrapped stitches and I’m not sure how to knit through them. Can you please advise.
Thanks,
Clare
Hello Clare,
On row 28 of short rows you are on the purl side, So after doing 1 wrap and turn as the directions say you will be on the right side with only 1 wrapped stitch to work. I’m wondering if there was an accidental extra wrap you made? Unless the issue is at the wrap and turn at the end of row 29 of your short rows. This brings you back to row 2 which doesn’t tell you to pick up that wrapped stitch on the purl side in the pattern. That will leave a wrap that I would recommend picking up on the purl side as you were doing before.
Please keep me posted about your problem! Has it been worked out?
Best,
Carly
Hi- I noticed on Ravelry it mentions there is errata for this pattern but the link to it is broken. Does this page incorporate that errata??
Hi Michele,
Thanks for writing in! We have updated the pattern from the original posting but all of the errata has been incorporated into the pattern on the pattern page above. The Ravelry link has been corrected as well.
Best,
Cassy
Hi! I love this pattern and I am looking to tackle it as my first sweater! I am wondering about lengthening the arms and body of the sweater? I am already knitting the largest size, but my underarm to cuff is 20″ at a minimum and my underarm to hem is 14″. Thanks!!
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly add length. For the body, you can add length in the Continue Body section. For the arms, I would suggest adding additional rounds between the increases.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Please advise how I can print this pattern so it’s easy to read. I have printed it but print is very light
Hi Debby,
Thanks for writing in! We do have a print function that should print with standard dark letters. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
Best,
Cassy
Any thoughts on making this a men’s sweater? I was thinking of just making the hem straight rather than shaped… this is probably honestly more of an opinion question 🙂 but how feminine is the neckline? Anyone’s thoughts are welcome! I am having a hard time finding a super basic and lightweight men’s sweater!
Hello Jocelyne,
I think this is a fantastic idea! In my opinion, I do not find this neckline particularly gendered. Let us know how it turns out.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
A friend sent me a link to this pattern. I am unable to get the exact yarn where I live, but I found a yarn that is 75% superwash wool and 25% polymide that has the same gauge. I’ve made the two sleeves and they turned out great and I just finished the short rows on both sides. However, it looks like the bottom wants to curl up over the cording stitch on the body. It doesn’t do it on the sleeves. I can’t tell what it will do when it is not all scrunched up on the circular needles. Does it normally look like it is curling too much? If not, is there anything I can do to keep it from curling up? I don’t want to continue if it is not going to lay flat and show the cording stitch. Do you have any ideas for me?
Hi Shari,
Thanks for writing in! There will be a bit more of a tendency to curve up on the bottom of the sweater due to the short rows. For the version that we knit using Linen Quill, blocking eliminated any residual curling. If you are concerned with the curling, I would suggest wet blocking the work in progress while still on the needles and see if that helps. To do so, fill a basin with warm water submerge the item in the water and leave for at least 15 minutes. Remove the item and gently squeeze out the water, being careful not to wring it. Lay it out on a dry towel, using your hands to push it into the desired finished shape and leave to dry. If there is still significant curling, it could be that you are pulling a touch too tight when wrapping and turning on the short rows and a bit less tension should do the trick!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi
Love the sweater bought lots of Koigu pppm from purl. Do u think I can use it for sweater? Thanks
Hi Lucille,
Thanks for writing in! The Koigu KPPPM is a touch thicker than the Linen Quill that we use here but I think that it could work. I would suggest knitting up a gauge swatch to be sure that you can get gauge and get a fabric that you like. If you like the fabric with the correct gauge, you will be all set!
Best,
Cassy
I would like to make this sweater longer and the neckline a little higher. Is this easy to do and how would I do it?
Thanks,
Fran
Hi Fran,
Thanks for writing in! Lengthening this sweater is quite easy. You will just add some length after you have finished the short rows on the body. I would suggest measuring a sweater that you like the length of and base the amount you lengthen on that. Raising the neckline is quite a bit more complicated and would involve a reworking of that pattern. While you could add rows before knitting the cording stitch, this will change the look of the sweater. You may need to try a variety of options and see what works for you.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Short rows are a bear! I didn’t know how to do them on your jacket pattern and repeated watching of the video missed a point: how and when do you join the short row portion to the rest of the sleeve and body of sweater? That is, when does one just knit across the whole row so you don’t have 3 separate sections???
I don’t think sweaters advertised for beginners should have short rows in the patterns. But how does one join short rows to the rest???
Thank you! If your patterns weren’t so lovely, I wouldn’t care!
Hello Eileen,
Thank you for writing in! I’m sorry to hear you are having such a frustrating experience. The short rows in this sweater only appear at the bottom of the sweater to create the slopped edge. This means that the majority of this sweater’s body is knit in stockinette stitch. The three sections are knit separately so that once you have knit your two sleeves and the body of the sweater you will connect these three sections in the Yoke section of the pattern.
I hope this clears things up and if you have any more questions please let me know!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi,
I was just about to order the yarn for this when I got distracted by the tiny stripes vest. Could I knit this raglan pullover in stripes??
And if so, would I need to order extra skeins for the 2nd size up? Could I use linen quill for both colours?
(can’t wait to start either plain or striped!!)
Hi Alison,
Thank you for your kind words! The Tiny Stripes Vest is quite fetching! The difficulty in adding stripes to this sweater is that there are a good amount of short rows and creating stripes in short rows can be very challenging if not impossible (I haven’t been able how to work it out so that they will match or how to do it without a good amount of floats on the back). If you do want to attempt it in the sections without short rows (the sleeves and body above the bottom and below the short rows), I would suggest getting an additional skein of the contrast color.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I would love to knit this sweater but am leery of the wool and alpaca in the Linen Quill yarn. I have sensitive skin and am wondering if this a very scratchy yarn? Thanks for any feedback!
Hi Monica,
Great question! Feel of yarn is such a personal issue. For me, I find this yarn quite nice especially after a few hand washes. My sweater fabric is quite lovely and I have no problem with it next to my skin despite me having a bit of a sensitivity to alpaca. That said, your impressions may vary. I would suggest swatching with a single skein of Linen Quill and seeing how you like the fabric. Additionally, if you are ever in New York, you can come in a feel the sweater and our other projects.
Best,
Cassy
Hi,
I’m wondering what the size equivalents are for the measurements. I usually wear a small even though I have a larger chest. Would the 32 be equivalent to XS, 36 S, etc.? I don’t want to end up with a too baggy sweater!
Thank you,
Jenna
Hi Jenna,
Thanks for writing in! Our sizes for this sweater are based on chest measurements. That is to say the measurement of the fullest part of your chest plus 1-4 inches. SO if your chest measurement is 39, you would add 1-4 inches (40-43 inches) and select the size 40. As far as the equivalent to sizes like XS-XL, this is a bit difficult as each clothing brand uses a different scale. We like using the actual measurements as it provides a more accurate idea of what size you should knit.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello,
I am having the same problem…. twice. I did the firt 29 rows, and I end up with 178 stiches… for the second bottom edge. What haven’t I understood in short row making. The first side looks fine to me.
Thanks for your help,
Diane
I started all over again, with success this time, but not knowing what I had done wrong. I suggest putting a second marker to check the stitch count.
Great pattern!
Diane
Hi Diane,
I am glad to hear that you have things working well right now! I, myself, use lots of stitch markers in my projects to make things more evident ans easier for me!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
You substituted Linen Quill for Cattail Silk. What about Line Weight? Could Line Weight be substituted for this sweater? If not please suggest a few patterns using Line Weight as I purchased 7 skeins already and don’t remember what I had planned to make. I would really love to make this sweater and look forward to your reply. Thank you.
Mae
Hello Mae,
Yes you could use the line weight that you have for this sweater, it would work well. Other patterns that we have where you can use line weight are the Striped Spring Shirt, the bobble yoke sweater, and the circular yoke summer shirt.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
JUST finished knitting this sweater and it turned out lovely! This was my first ever sweater and it proved to be a bit of a challenge (but in a good way, kept me interested in the project), would definitely recommend to other first time sweater knitters if you’re up for a challenge and want to learn some new skills. Thank you for a great pattern.
Hello Stephanie,
Congratulations on finishing your first sweater! I’m so happy to hear it was a positive experience.
Happy Knitting,
Marilla
Short row question. If I just want to replicate the short row directions from the front to the back, at what stitch count for “row 1-Knit 112, wrap and turn” do I start from the side seam? I am not sure I have the wraps in exactly the right place and am concerned that my front and back hem will not match and the “side seams” will be off. I don’t want to use that wrap as noted in row 29 as my starting point for the back hem shaping.
Hello Mary,
Thanks for writing in! If you are making the largest size and cast on a total of 336 stitches you will knit 280 stitches before beginning your short rows if you would like them to be in the back rather than the front. I hope this clears things up. Please let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, I am loving knitting this jumper, I live in South Africa and am not able to get linen quill, but am doing it in sock yarn. I have done the cording on the body and am busy with short rows and would like to know what happens to the very last wrapped stitch before I start with the straight stockinette stitch.
Hello Valerie,
Thank you for your question! After you have repeated rows Rows 2 through 28 once more you will knit to wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round. I hope this clears things up for you!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Could I use your Understory yarn to make this sweater?
Thank you for your time and help.
Sheila
Hi Shelia,
Thanks for writing in! Understory is quite a bit heavier than Linen Quill and thus would not work well as a substitution here. If you would like to use an alternate yarn for this lovely sweater, I would suggest looking for a yarn that has a gauge of roughly 7 stitches per inch.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy