Lightweight Raglan Pullover In New Colors
If you think making your first sweater in the round requires a secret code to enter an exclusive corner of the knitting world, think again!
Our free Lightweight Raglan Pullover pattern demystifies the legend of the bottom-up sweater with clear instructions and helpful tutorials, and by the time you’re done, you’ll know just how three tubes (a body and two sleeves) magically merge into a real live, functional (and beautiful!) sweater you’ll want to wear every chance you get!
A preview of the journey ahead: You’ll cast on for the bottom hem, give it a tidy Cording Stitch finish, then work short rows to give the bottom edge a gentle slope. Then it’s smooth sailing to the underarms, where you attach the sleeves (now we’re cooking!), ready to work the raglan yoke with regularly spaced decreases. Shape the neckline and shoulders with more short rows, finish the neckband with another round of Cording Stitch, then give yourself a pat on the back, you’re done!
Whether it’s your first sweater or your fiftieth, casting on with something special makes the knitting special. Here we used our Linen Quill, a mix of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen whose depth and natural beauty enrich every stitch.
Linen Quill is just right for wearing from fall through spring, but if you’re wanting to wear your Lightweight Raglan Pullover from spring through fall, our Cattail Silk is an equally beautiful option with an earthy texture and casual elegance. Either way, join the sweater-in-the-round club… Everyone is welcome!
Originally designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoLightweightRaglanPullover, #PurlSohoLinenQuill, and #PurlSohoCattailSilk. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is approximately 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1155 (1285, 1420, 1555, 1695) (1830, 1955, 2080, 2195) yards required. We used the colors Vintage Celadon and Rose Granite.
OR
- 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) (4, 4, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cattail Silk, 100% silk yarn. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is approximately 618 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1220 (1360, 1505, 1650, 1800) (1940, 2070, 2200, 2335) yards required. Click here to see a Cattail Silk version of the Lightweight Raglan Pullover.
You’ll also need…
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles, depending on size you are making
- US 4, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 4 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
28 stitches and 33 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE: For help picking the correct size, visit our Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size Tutorial.
32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-47) (48-51, 52-55, 56-59, 60-63) inches, with 1-4 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge of Back: 22¾ (23¼, 23½, 23¾, 24) (24¼, 24¾, 25¼, 25¾) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge (measured at side): 10½ (10½, 10¼, 10, 9¾) (9¾, 10, 10¼, 10½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16¾ (16¾, 17, 17½, 17¾) (17¾, 17¾, 18, 18¼) inches
SAMPLE: The Vintage Celadon sweater is size 36, worn with 3 inches of ease, and the Rose Granite sweater is size 48, worn with 4 inches of ease.
Notes
Construction
This sweater is worked in the round from bottom up. You will begin with the Sleeves, then set them aside and work the Body from bottom to Underarms. There, you will join Sleeves, then work the raglan Yoke to Neckline, which you will shape with short rows. You will finish with the Neckband.
Special Instructions
CORDING STITCH
NOTE: For a photo how-to of this technique, visit our Cording Stitch tutorial!
*Use tip of right needle to pick up purl bump four rounds directly below next stitch (shown in pink, above)…
…Place purl bump on left needle, knit next stitch and picked-up stitch together, repeat from * to end of round.
NOTE: If you anticipate having trouble identifying the stitches you need to pick up, visit our Cording Stitch tutorial for tips on adding a “lifeline.” This is a step you do before you work the Cording Stitch that helps indicate which round you’re picking up!
MAKE 1 RIGHT + LEFT (M1R + M1L)
NOTE: For more help with these increases, visit our Make 1 Right (M1R) + Make 1 Left (M1L) tutorial.
Make 1 Right: Use left needle to pick up strand (or “bar”) between last stitch and next stitch, from back to front. Knit into front leg. [1 stitch increased]
Make 1 Left: Use left needle to pick up strand between last stitch and next stitch, from front to back. Knit into back leg. [1 stitch increased]
SHORT-ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)
NOTE: For more information about this technique, please visit our Short Rows tutorial.
On the right side: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
On the wrong side: Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so right side is facing you.
PICKING UP PURL WRAP ON KNIT SIDE
NOTE: See this situation in action at minute 4:33 of our Short Rows tutorial.
Use tip of right needle to pick up wrap, inserting needle from front to back. Place wrap onto left needle, nudging wrap, if necessary, so it is after next stitch on needle. Slip first stitch knitwise, then slip wrap purlwise. Insert tip of left needle into front legs of two slipped stitches. Wrap working yarn around right needle to knit two together.
Pattern
Sleeves
Use a Long Tail Cast On to cast 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) (72, 74, 76, 78) stitches onto three double pointed needles.
Place marker (pm) and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 8 rounds. (Note: If you’re planning on adding a lifeline, do so right after finishing your fourth round at the cuffs, collar, and hem!)
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch (see Special Instructions) to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 1 inch from cast-on edge.
SHAPE SLEEVE
Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [2 stitches increased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) (4th, 4th, 4th, 4th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) (29, 23, 22, 24) more times, then every 6th (0, 5th, 4th, 4th) (0, 3rd, 3rd, 3rd) round 4 (0, 16, 1, 14) (0, 8, 10, 8) time(s). [86 (94, 104, 112, 122) (132, 138, 142, 144) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 16¾ (16¾, 17, 17½, 17¾) (17¾, 17¾, 18, 18¼) inches from cast-on edge.
Next Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13) (15, 17, 19, 21), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn (removing end-of-round marker), knit to end of round. [76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches remain]
Cut yarn.
Place remaining stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn and set aside. This will be the Right Sleeve.
Make Left Sleeve same as Right Sleeve, but leave the 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Sleeve stitches on double pointed needles and set aside.
Body
Using a Long Tail Cast On, cast 224 (252, 280, 308, 336) (364, 392, 420, 448) stitches onto longer circular needles.
Place unique marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch for 8 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch to end of round.
SHAPE BOTTOM EDGE
NOTE: In this section, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row. For extra help, see Special Instructions.
Short Row 1 (right side): K75 (84, 93, 103, 112) (121, 131, 140, 149), wrp-t (see Special Instructions).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): P38 (42, 46, 52, 56) (60, 66, 70, 74), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (4, 5, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8, 9), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (4, 5, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8, 9), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), wrp-t.
Short Row 6: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (3, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 6, 6), wrp-t.
Short Rows 7-12: Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 three more times.
Short Row 13: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 14: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Rows 15-20: Repeat Short Rows 13 and 14 three more times.
Short Row 21: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 3), wrp-t.
Short Row 22: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p1 (1, 1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2, 3), wrp-t.
Short Rows 23-28: Repeat Short Rows 21 and 22 three more times.
Short Row 29: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k75 (84, 93, 103, 112) (121, 131, 140, 149), wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 2 through 28 once more.
Next Short Row (right side): Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, slip marker.
Next Round: *Knit purl-wrapped stitch with its wrap (see Special Instructions), knit to next purl-wrapped stitch, knit purl-wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round.
CONTINUE BODY
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 14 (14, 13¾, 13½, 13¼) (13¼, 13½, 13¾, 14) inches from cast-on edge (measured at longest point, either at center Back or center Front).
DIVIDE FRONT + BACK
Division Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13) (15, 17, 19, 21), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Underarm (removing end-of-round marker); k112 (126, 140, 154, 168) (182, 196, 210, 224), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm; knit to Left Underarm (next stitch holder). [204 (224, 244, 264, 284) (304, 324, 344, 364) stitches remain: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) stitches each for Front and Back]
Yoke
JOIN BODY + SLEEVES
NOTE: For help with this section, please visit our Joining Sleeves To Body Tutorial.
Joining Round: Holding Underarms parallel to each other, use working yarn from Body to k76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Left Sleeve stitches, pm; k102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) Front stitches, pm; slip on-hold Right Sleeve stitches onto spare needles and holding Underarms parallel to each other, k76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) Right Sleeve stitches, pm; k102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) Back stitches, place unique marker for end-of-round. [356 (384, 416, 444, 476) (508, 532, 552, 568) total stitches: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) stitches each for Front and Back; 76 (80, 86, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches for each Sleeve]
BEGIN SHAPING RAGLAN
SIZE 32 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
Sleeve Decrease Round: [K1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rounds once more. [348 total stitches: 102 stitches each for Front and Back; 72 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
SIZES 36 AND 40 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
SIZES 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, AND 64 ONLY
Next Round: Knit to end of round.
Body Decrease Round: [Knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), k1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Repeat Body Decrease Round – (–, –, 2, 3) (3, 7, 11, 15) more times. [– (–, –, 432, 460) (492, 500, 504, 504) total stitches: – (–, –, 126, 134) (144, 146, 148, 150) stitches each for Front and Back; – (–, –, 90, 96) (102, 104, 104, 102) stitches for each Sleeve]
ALL SIZES
Raglan Decrease Round: [K1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1, slip marker (sm)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Raglan Decrease Round every round 0 (0, 2, 4, 6) (10, 14, 16, 16) more times, then every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) (27, 23, 21, 20) more times. [156 (160, 168, 176, 180) (188, 196, 200, 208) total stitches remain: 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) (68, 70, 72, 76) stitches each for Front and Back; 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) stitches for each Sleeve]
SET UP NECKLINE + SHOULDER SHAPING
Set-Up Round: Knit to next marker, sm, k36 (38, 41, 43, 45) (48, 50, 52, 55), place previous 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Neckline, knit to end of round. [138 (140, 146, 152, 154) (160, 166, 168, 174) total stitches remain: 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) (20, 20, 20, 21) stitches each for Left and Right Front; 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) (68, 70, 72, 76) stitches for Back; 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) stitches for each Sleeve]
Cut yarn.
Slip the following markers and stitches from left needle to right needle: slip end-of-round marker, slip 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) Left Sleeve stitches, sm, slip 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) (20, 20, 20, 21) Left Front stitches.
The stitch marker at Back Left now serves as a raglan marker instead of end-of-round marker, and the Front Neckline now marks the end of row.
SHAPE NECKLINE + SHOULDERS
NOTE: In this section you will again be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row.
With right side facing you, join yarn to Right Front stitches…
Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last stitch, wrp-t. [130 (132, 138, 144, 146) (152, 158, 160, 166) total stitches remain: 17 (17, 18, 18, 18) (19, 19, 19, 20) stitches for each Front; 52 (54, 58, 60, 62) (66, 68, 70, 74) stitches for Back; 22 (22, 22, 24, 24) (24, 26, 26, 26) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to last stitch, wrp-t.
Short Row 3: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 5 stitches, wrp-t. [122 (124, 130, 136, 138) (144, 150, 152, 158) total stitches remain: 16 (16, 17, 17, 17) (18, 18, 18, 19) stitches for each Front; 50 (52, 56, 58, 60) (64, 66, 68, 72) stitches for Back; 20 (20, 20, 22, 22) (22, 24, 24, 24) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 4: Purl to last 5 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 5: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 8 stitches, wrp-t. [114 (116, 122, 128, 130) (136, 142, 144, 150) total stitches remain: 15 (15, 16, 16, 16) (17, 17, 17, 18) stitches for each Front; 48 (50, 54, 56, 58) (62, 64, 66, 70) stitches for Back; 18 (18, 18, 20, 20) (20, 22, 22, 22) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 6: Purl to last 8 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 7: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 4 times, knit to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) (11, 12, 12, 12) stitches, wrp-t. [106 (108, 114, 120, 122) (128, 134, 136, 142) total stitches remain: 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for each Front; 46 (48, 52, 54, 56) (60, 62, 64, 68) stitches for Back; 16 (16, 16, 18, 18) (18, 20, 20, 20) stitches for each Sleeve]
Short Row 8: Purl to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) (11, 12, 12, 12) stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 9: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 3 times, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, wrp-t. [100 (102, 108, 114, 116) (122, 128, 130, 136) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for Right Front; 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) (16, 18, 18, 18) stitches for Right Sleeve; 44 (46, 50, 52, 54) (58, 60, 62, 66) stitches for Back; 15 (15, 15, 17, 17) (17, 19, 19, 19) stitches for Left Sleeve; 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 10: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Short Row 11: [Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk] 2 times, k1, wrp-t. [96 (98, 104, 110, 112) (118, 124, 126, 132) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for Right Front; 13 (13, 13, 15, 15) (15, 17, 17, 17) stitches for Right Sleeve; 42 (44, 48, 50, 52) (56, 58, 60, 64) stitches for Back; 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) (16, 18, 18, 18) stitches for Left Sleeve; 14 (14, 15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16, 17) stitches for Left Front]
Short Row 12: [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, p3, wrp-t.
Short Row 13: Knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them, [k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker] 2 times, k2tog, k1, remove marker, k1, ssk, knit to end of row. [90 (92, 98, 104, 106) (112, 118, 120, 126) total stitches remain: 13 (13, 14, 14, 14) (15, 15, 15, 16) stitches for each Front; 40 (42, 46, 48, 50) (54, 56, 58, 62) stitches for Back; 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) (14, 16, 16, 16) stitches for each Sleeve]
NECKBAND
Changing to shorter needles, place a unique marker to indicate end of round.
Round 1: With right side facing you, k18 (20, 22, 24, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) on-hold Front Neckline stitches, knit to end of round, knitting remaining wrapped stitches with their wraps and removing remaining raglan markers as you come to them. [108 (112, 120, 128, 132) (140, 148, 152, 160) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch for 3 rounds.
Next Round: Work Cording Stitch to end of round.
Continue in stockinette stitch for 2 rounds.
Bind off all stitches loosely.
FINISHING
NOTE: For help with Kitchener Stitch, visit our tutorial.
Holding Body and Sleeve Underarms stitches parallel to each other, use Kitchener Stitch to graft Underarm stitches together. Sew up any holes, if necessary.
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I love the lightweight raglan pullover! Would it be possible to knit this one top-down?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! Since this pattern is only written for bottom-up construction, we don’t offer instructions for knitting this top-down. If you’re up for a bit of a challenge, you could certainly play around with the pattern and test it out working top-down!
If you do, please let us know how this turns out!
Gianna
If I wanted to make the sleeves a different color, how much of each yarn would I need, using the linen?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! What a fun idea! Depending on the size you are making, 1-2 skeins in a different color should be plenty!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m looking to join the knit-along and am trying to decide between the cattail silk and linen quill yarns, but am noticing inconsistencies in the yardage needed for the cattail silk version. The page here says 36″ chest needs approx. 1360 yards (3 skeins), but the cattail silk sweater page (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2018/08/06/lightweight-raglan-pullover-in-cattail-silk/) says approx. 1210 yards (2 skeins). That’s a pretty big difference — which one is accurate?
Hi Christy,
Thanks for reaching out! Since revamping this pattern for the new launch, the pattern underwent new tech editing that showed the Cattail Silk version needed a more accurate yardage count, so we have updated the skein counts in the new pattern! I would suggest following the new version to ensure you have enough yarn to complete the pullover.
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Do you have a picture of this garment made with the alternate yarn (cattail silk)?
If yes, please kindly send an email including the pic or advise where I can find the pic.
Thank you!
Mary Simpson
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! We actually have a separate post for the Cattail Silk version of this pattern! There you can see photos of what the garment looks like knit up. The link is available under the MATERIALS section, where we list the skein count for Cattail Silk, I will also add the link here for convenience!
Lightweight Raglan Pullover in Cattail Silk
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I would like to join KAL but don’t want to take the chance of bleeding yarn. I also don’t want to fix the yarn. What other choices are available beside Linen Quill.
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for reaching out! We actually only suggest re-fixing the dye on the more saturated colors of Linen Quill to be safe, but overall most of the colors shouldn’t bleed. Alternatively, we have a version of this pullover in Cattail Silk, you can find that version here: Lightweight Raglan Pullover in Cattail Silk
Cattail Silk and Linen Quill are both included in the discount for those who choose to join the KAL.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
I love everything about this sweater except the length of it. Is there a way to increase it as you work your way up from the hem without ruining the lines?
Hi Deb,
Thanks for reaching out! Since this is knit from the bottom up, you could easily extend the length as desired. The only thing to consider is that we use short rows to shape the bottom, so you may want to start increasing the length at the beginning at the BODY section of the pattern so that you don’t need to make any changes to the SHAPE BOTTOM EDGE section of the pattern.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Gianna
Wouldn’t we want to add rows in the “continue body” section? After the bottom edge has been shaped?
Hi Michele,
Yes, that’s correct! I believe that’s what Gianna meant when she wrote “you may want to start increasing the length at the beginning at the BODY section of the pattern so that you don’t need to make any changes to the SHAPE BOTTOM EDGE section of the pattern.”
All the best,
Lili
I was wondering if I could just use magic loop instead of double pointed needles.
Hi Gwen,
That is a great question, I think you could certainly use Magic Loop instead of double-pointed needles!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I am a newer knitter (about 3 years) and I’ve never attempted a sweater… quite honestly, I’m a bit intimidated! But I also really want to make one! Just for reference, I’m totally comfortable with knitting, purling, increases & decreases. I’ve mastered brioche and 2-color brioche. What I have very limited experience with is using double-pointed needles.
My two concerns are:
1. Getting a garment that actually fits when I’m done
2. Getting overwhelmed and never finishing because I might be in over my head
So my BIG question is… Do you feel this sweater is appropriate for someone like me as a first sweater? Or do you have a recommendation for something more appropriate?
Thanks!
Theresa
Hi Theresa,
That is a great question, and actually, this pullover is the perfect project for a beginner! We have actually had many customers try this pattern out as their first sweater, with great results! As for your two concerns, we have an excellent tutorial, Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size, that will walk you through in-depth how to select the right size for you.
If you get overwhelmed at any point, you can reach out to us here, on our email, [email protected] or you can sign up for a 1 on 1 meeting with one of our specialists on zoom here: 1-On-1 Project Help, we are happy to help in any way we can!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Thanks for the quick response! I think I’m going to go for it… one additional question though. I learned the hard way with a scarf that I needed to alternate between multiple skeins of yarn to prevent a noticeable difference when I started the 2nd skein. Is that something I will need to do with this yarn?
Hi Theresa,
So glad I could help! That is more of a concern when the yarn is of a different dye lot, has a variation in color within the skein like if its hand-dyed for example, so you shouldn’t have to worry about that with Linen Quill, you should be able to knit through the skein till you run out, and then move to the next skein!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I am very excited about the Knit-Along! I have never knit a sweater before, but am excited for a new challenge. Ordered my yarn and some new double pointed needles today. Thanks for creating this community project!
Me too!! Lord knows I don’t really need to start another project, but I’m really looking forward to the challenge. I just hope I’m not in over my head!
Hi Theresa,
We’re so excited to hear that you’re looking forward to the KAL! I want to let you know that if you ever do feel in over your head, please don’t hesitate to reach out to us at [email protected] or by scheduling a 1-On-1 Project Help session. We are always happy to help you through the pattern!
All the best,
Lili
I too am excited about the Knit-along. I have downloaded the pattern and was looking at the sleeve length. I measured the sleeve of one of my favorite and best fitting pull-overs. There is quite a difference. Pattern for my size says 17 3/4’s inches. My favorite sweater has sleeves that are 20 1/4 inches. Could I increase the length of the sleeves and if so, how? Also, how would that increase effect the amount of yarn needed for the project?
Hi Lorraine,
Thanks for reaching out. The reason that the sleeves on this pattern may seem short is because of the way it’s constructed! Because it’s a raglan sweater, the sleeves truly start quite a bit down the upper arm, so they don’t include a lot of the distance that you might find in other garments. But if you’re still worried about the sleeves ending up too short, then you can absolutely add some length! I’d recommend just knitting some extra rounds after you’re done with all the increases. This will alter the yardage a bit, but you might not need to order any extra yarn. Can you let me know what size you’re knitting? That way I can give you a better estimate of how much yarn you’ll need if you decide to make the modifications. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili. Your response was extremely helpful. I will be knitting a size 50. I plan on purchasing 5 skeins of Linen Quill …just to be safe. Besides, if I don’t need it for this project, it will be a sweet addition to my stash!
I understand that the sleeves might only “seem” short because of it being a raglan sweater. But the drawing of sizes doesn’t really help with showing the sleeve length then. I guess what would the measurement from neck to wrist be for size 36? 16 3/4” for sleeve length definitely seems like I want to add some rows but I’m not sure how many.
Hi Michele,
Thanks for reaching out. You can get the length of the measurement from neck to wrist by adding up the height of the neckline, the depth of the yoke, and the length of the sleeve! For size 36, that would be 0.75in + 8.5in + 16.75in = 26in.
However, I find it easier to measure sleeve length with the inseam measurement, from armpit to wrist. I’d recommend starting by measuring your own arm from about an inch or two below your armpit (where the sleeve will actually begin) to wherever you’d like the end of the sleeve to fall on your forearm/wrist. Then, you can add however many rounds you need to achieve that length!
All the best,
Lili
I will be making a sweater for my middle daughter in the Blue Iris Cattail Silk. Is that one of the colors that needs to be fixed so it won’t run?
Thanks!
Hi Chantal,
Thanks for writing in! I don’t think that color will need to be fixed, there is more concern with the darker shades of Cattail Silk, and if you are going to be working with more than one color, for example, a light and dark color. If you are using only Blue Iris you should be good to go!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Hi!
I have interchangeable short tip needles for sleeve. Would it work for this project? If so, what length cable should i use? Thanks!
Hi Hannah,
Thanks for reaching out. The needles you have will probably work for the sleeve, depending on which size you’re making! The schematics for this pattern will help determine what length cable to use. Just check the wrist circumference for your size, and then choose a cable that is slightly shorter than that measurement. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Just confirm,
My needle measures 10 and quarter inches tip to tip and the circumference of my the wrist on my sweater size is 8 and half inches. So this wouldn’t work right? If so, are there shorter cables available to purchase? The cable alone measures 6 inches.
I appreciate your help!!
Hi Hannah,
Thanks for your response! The needles on the 10″ cord mary work once you get past the cuff section of the pattern and start increasing, but you will need something smaller for the start of the sleeve. I would actually recommend using a set of US 4 double pointed needles as we suggest in the materials section for the sleeve!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Excited to try this project. It has been awhile since I picked up my needles, so looking for some motivation!
Quick question – chest circumference measures 44′, with ease I would be at 47-48. Is 3 skeins the amount to order?
Hi Beth,
Thanks so much for writing in! We’re truly so excited that you’re interested in knitting this pullover and are happy to help! Size 48 would work well for a 44″ chest circumference and provide 4″ of positive ease as well! In that case, if you’re making the Linen Quill version of the pullover, you’d need 4 skeins and if you’re making the Cattail Silk version you’d need 3.
Thanks again for your comment and have a great rest of your day!
All the best,
Cat
HI!
I’m planning on working on this project. This will be the first time I have ever read a pattern. I’ve watched a few youtube videos about how to but the best way to learn is to do it. I’m curious if you all have your own pattern reading tutorial (advice or tips), if so, I want to check it out. thanks!
Hi Skyler,
Thanks for writing in! We are truly so excited that you’re interested in knitting this pullover, and even more so since this will be your first time reading a pattern!
It’s common for various abbreviations to be used in knitting patterns and I’d suggest taking a look at our Knitting Abbreviations + Terms page for definitions and helpful tutorials for different knitting techniques. If you’d like to check out any tutorials specifically, you can do so at our Tutorials page as well.
I hope this helps! Thanks again for your comment and have a great rest of your day!
All the best,
Cat
Thank you Cat!
Hi Skyler,
No problem at all, I’m happy to help! Have a great rest of your day!
All the best,
Cat
I appreciate that the pattern includes folks with larger busts. What cup size was this pattern designed for? I need to know whether to knit for my full bust or my upper bust.
Additionally, how do we adjust the pattern if we have larger hips and abdomens? Most fat people aren’t straight up and down, contrary to what this pattern suggests.
Hi Rhonnie,
Thanks for reaching out. While we didn’t design this pattern with cup sizes in mind, I would recommend knitting for your upper bust! That measurement is often best to use for the most accurate sizing.
And you can absolutely modify the pattern so that the lower part of the body of the sweater is larger! This is how I would do that: First, pick the size that fits your upper bust measurement, and then choose a different size that fits the measurement around your hips/abdomen. When you’re knitting the body of the sweater, cast on the number of stitches for this second, larger size, and work the beginning of this section accordingly. Then, as you keep knitting the body (the pattern will indicate to simply knit until the body is x inches long), decrease these extra stitches away until you reach the stitch count for the first, smaller size! I would work these decreases on either side of the sweater, 2 at a time, every few rows.
I hope my advice helps make the pattern work better for you!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for the information, Lili. What is your advice for altering the pattern for hips larger than 64″?
Hi Rhonnie,
You’re very welcome! In order to alter the pattern for hips larger than 64″, you’ll need to calculate the cast-on number from scratch. Here’s how to do that: First, figure out how wide you’ll need the bottom of the sweater to be–this will be your hip measurement plus however much ease you want in the sweater. Then, multiply this number by the number of stitches per inch, which is the stitch gauge divided by 4, so 7. Finally, round this number to the nearest multiple of 4, and that’s how many stitches you’ll need to cast on at the beginning.
You will also need to adjust how you do the short rows for the shaping at the bottom of the hem, but this is hard for me to modify if I don’t know exactly how many stitches you’ll have on your needles. I would be happy to figure this out for you if you’d like to let me know what cast-on number you end up going with!
Once you get past this point, you can work the decreases on either side of the body like I mentioned in my previous comment, and you’ll be all set!
All the best,
Lili
Hi!
I am very excited about this Knit-Along, it is my first time joining one!
I started the project a few days ago, and I was wondering if there might be a mistake in the number of rounds for increases. I picked a size 40 (so it is the 3rd size). I started with 60 stitches and when I got to the increases, the pattern says “Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Increase Round every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) (4th, 4th, 4th, 4th) round 12 (18, 5, 22, 12) (29, 23, 22, 24) more times” So if I am reading this correctly, I need to repeat the increase every 6th row 5 more times… but size 36 is 18 more times and size 44 is 22 more times…. Are the numbers off or am I reading this wrong?
Thank you for your help!
Hi Cristina,
Thanks for writing in. For that instruction (“Continuing in stockinette stitch”), after repeating the increase every 6th round 5 more times, you would then repeat the increase every 5th round 16 more times so this balances everything out in comparison to the other sizes!
I hope this helps, and have a great day!
All the best,
Cat
thank you!
Hello! How much ease is expected with this top? I can’t seem to find it in the description. Is the overall fit a bit loose? Please let me know. Thank you!
Hi Katie,
Thanks for writing in. You can find information about positive ease in the “Size” section in the pattern! This pullover is designed to provide 1 to 4 inches of ease for every size so, for instance, if one’s chest circumference is 40 inches, they could make size 44 and have 4 inches of positive ease. Here’s the info from that section here as well:
SIZES
32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-47) (48-51, 52-55, 56-59, 60-63) inches, with 1-4 inches of ease
I hope this helps, and have a great day!
All the best,
Cat
I’m working on a gauge swatch. Is the gauge provided before or after blocking?
Hi Ethel,
Thanks for reaching out. All of our gauge measurements are taken after blocking the swatch! Hope this clarifies things for you.
All the best,
Lili
Gauge of 28 stitches per 4 inches! My swatch is almost 5 inches. I’ve been knitting 65 years and don’t normally have trouble meeting gauge, but I can’t see myself knitting a sweater on sock-size needles. Most fingering-weight sweaters call for 22 to 24 stitches. I’ll be dropping out, sadly. Guess I’ll use my Linen Quill for a wrap.
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m sorry to hear that our gauge for this project isn’t working out for you. I completely understand if knitting on smaller needles isn’t your cup of tea! You might want to check out the Open Air Wrap and the Aperture Wrap, which are both designed specifically for Linen Quill and use size 5 and size 4 needles, respectively.
All the best,
Lili
Good Morning,
I’ve started working on my first sleeve of the pattern in size 36. When doing my increases, I have been knitting 5 rows in stockinette and making the increases on 6th row. I hope this is correct? It seems that with my size all the increases are done during the beginning of the sleeve and then it says 0 increases for 0 rounds, so I’m assuming I would knit in stockinette until I reach 16-3/4″ in length. Will this make my sleeve shape look awkward compared to the other sizes in the instructions?
Thanks for any feedback.
Sandra
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for reaching out. You’re correct! For the sleeve shaping in size 36, you’ll knit 5 rounds and then work the increases on the 6th round. While each size has a slightly different rate (or rates) of increases, I promise that all the sleeves will look proportional! Increasing every 6th round 18 times adds up to 108 rounds, which, according to the round gauge should equal about 13 inches. Adding the 1 inch at the beginning to this, you’ll already be at 14 inches just after the increase section, so you’re only knitting in stockinette for 2.75 inches at the very top of the sleeve! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I’m coming up on finishing the increases on my first sleeve (size 36); just to clarify, should I have a total of 18 increase rows or 19 (the first increase row + 18 more times)?
Thank you,
Kira
Hi Kira,
Thanks for checking in about this! For size 36, you’ll have a total of 19 increase rows. I hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Lili
I would love to knit this with stripes, but I have a hard time selecting colors online. Could you suggest some color combos for linen quill that would pair well with “true turquoise?” Also, for cattail silk, what would pair well with “patina blue”? Thanks so much for your help!
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out. Very exciting that you’re thinking of using multiple colors in your pullover! For Linen Quill in True Turquoise, I would recommend Vintage Celadon for a similar but lighter color, Pale Oats if you’re looking for a neutral, or Sweet Potato if you want a bright pop of color! For Cattail Silk in Patina Blue, I think that Purple Sumac would provide a wonderful contrast, and Flower Field Charcoal would also be really nice, since the Patina Blue will bring out the blue speckles in that color. I also wanted to let you know that we carry color cards for Linen Quill, which are a great option if you want to see how colors look together in person without buying entire skeins!
All the best,
Lili
Do you think the gauge swatch should be done on circular needles? I’m getting 26 sts per 4” when I knit the swatch back and forth, and I’m thinking it will be more sts when knitted in the round.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out. We always recommend knitting your gauge swatch in the round when swatching for patterns knit primarily in the round, like this one! You’re right that you’ll get a more accurate representation of your stitch gauge for the project that way.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Is it too late to join the knit along and what would this entail?
Thanks,
Tori
Hi Tori,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely still join the Knit-Along at this point! Just enter your email on this page, and you’ll be all signed up to receive updates about Zoom meetups, prizes, and more!
All the best,
Lili
Since, I haven’t ordered my yarn yet and it’s not too late to join, do I have to catch up or go at my own pace?
I also work full time.
I’ve never done a knit a long before. Is there someone to help you if you get stuck?
Thanks,
Tori
Hi Tori,
You can absolutely go at your own pace! The “deadline” isn’t until September 30th, so you’ll have plenty of time to knit your pullover regardless of when you begin. And please don’t hesitate to reach out to us here or at [email protected] if you have any questions along the way!
All the best,
Lili
I’m in the KAL and have done my first swatch. I’m knitting the lightweight raglan sweater with Linen Quill, and my swatch was 35 stitches for 4 inches. In addition I am bust size 36. What should I do? This is my first sweater and I want it to fit!
Hi Betsy,
Thanks for writing in! Since the gauge of this pattern is 28 stitches and 33 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, you are getting pretty close, but need to get the correct gauge in order for the sweater to fit! You will actually want to go up a needle size or two and make another gauge swatch till you get the right gauge! I recommend checking out two of our wonderful tutorials, 1st, All About Gauge, and 2nd, Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size. These are two really great tutorials and can be an excellent resource to use, especially for making your first sweater! I would also recommend making sure you block your swatches after knitting them and before you count your gauge!
I hope this helps, and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Gianna
Is there a PDF of the pattern? I’m addicted to Knit Companion!
Hi Heather,
Thanks for reaching out! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments. From there you can click the PDF option, and save the document rather than printing it out!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Hello!
I’m almost done with the first sleeve. The last thing to do for my chosen size is K11, place previous 22 stitches onto stitch holder. Does the 22 stitches include the 11 I have just knitted or is it 22 stitches at the end of the row before the stitch marker that signifies the end of the row?
Hi Janell,
Thanks for writing in! Your first inclination was right in that you’ll include the 11 stitches you just worked. The 22 stitches you’re putting to the side (which will later serve as a connection for your armpit) will consist of the first 11 stitches of this new round, and the last 11 stitches of the previous round you worked on.
I hope that helps clarify things! Please let us know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Zha Zha
Thanks. i needed this clarified too.
Included under “Special Instructions” is ‘PICKING UP PURL WRAP ON KNIT SIDE’, but I don’t see this as an instruction within the pattern – what have I missed? Thank you!
^^ or does that instruction actually correspond to the pattern’s instruction ‘knit wrapped stitch with its wrap’ in the ‘SHAPE BOTTOM EDGE’ section of the pattern? (and if so, is there a companion instruction for ‘purl wrapped stitch with its wrap’?) Thank you!!
Hi Maren,
I just saw your second comment, and I hope that my first reply was useful, but I’ll take this as an opportunity to explain the different methods of picking up wrapped stitches in more depth!
If the pattern says “knit wrapped stitch with its wrap,” then you insert your needle into both the wrap and the stitch as if to knit, and knit the two together just like a k2tog.
If the pattern says “purl wrapped stitch with its wrap,” then you insert your needle into both the wrap and the stitch as if to purl, and purl the two together just like a p2tog.
Finally, if the pattern says “knit purl-wrapped stitch with its wrap,” then you follow the PICKING UP PURL WRAP ON KNIT SIDE instructions, as indicated in the Special Instructions section!
I hope this clears things up more!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Maren,
Thanks for reaching out. You’ll need to pick up a couple of purl-wrapped stitches from the knit side in the final round of the SHAPE BOTTOM EDGE section! Hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
I’m new to knitting (2 years in!). This will be my first KAL and my first sweater. I’ll be making the size 36 but would like the sleeves a little more fitted and to fall an inch or two above the wrist. Would the pattern work if I make the sleeves for size 32 and the body for size 36 or would that look off? How would I go about making a slightly shorter sleeve but still the correct number of stitches? Thanks for your help!
Hi Kira,
Thanks for reaching out. While this is possible to knit a more fitted and shorter sleeve by altering the stitch counts, we advise against it because of the bottom-up design and raglan shape of this sweater. Basically, it would take a lot of math to figure out how to make all the stitches line up correctly!
I would instead recommend simply using smaller needles for the sleeves! With both a smaller stitch gauge and a smaller row gauge, your sleeves will automatically come out more fitted and shorter, and you wouldn’t need to change anything else about the pattern. I hope this helps you make a pullover that fits how you like it!
All the best,
Lili
This will be my first sweater. I’m using a different fingering weight yarn. The recommended gauge for the yarn I intend to use is 28-32 stitches using size 1-3 needles. I just finished my circular swatch using the recommended size 4 needles for the pattern. I come up with 25 stitches and 35 rounds after dry blocking following your tutorial “All About Gauge”. I’ll wash and block again to see if the results are the same. I’m not as worried about the length as I can always measure as I knit and decide if I need to cut any rows outside of the shaping. At this point I’m thinking I’ll need to go down a needle size to get the correct gauge. Alternatively, since there is already 1-4″ positive ease, could I knit the next lower size? I’m a 34, but I was planning to knit the 36″, which given my current gauge would add 4.32″ extra ease. If I knit a size 32, I would add 3.82″ extra ease, but maybe could work out for me? Could this be an option?
Hi Kathy!
Thank you for your questions. Congratulations on starting your first sweater! We usually recommend knitting at gauge to make sure the pattern knits up as intended and the resulting sweater fits accurately. With your chosen yarn, I think you are right, your sweater might be better off if you go down one needle size. I wouldn’t recommend knitting a different size with this pattern’s ease allotment, due to the fact that 3”-4” is a small enough ease window that I’d hate to suggest you knit a smaller size and it comes out fitting too snug!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Margaret,
Thank you for your response – I ended up with 23 stitches after wet blocking. Yikes! Needless to say I’m knitting another swatch with size 3 needles. LOL! I hope I’ll be further along by the March 26 Zoom call! Thanks again!
Best regards,
Kathy
Hello, I would first like to tell you that I really like your website, your patterns, your descriptions and your yarns that I have ordered in abundance in the past few months. I tried very hard to knit a first sleeve of the Lightweight Raglan Pullover with double pointed needles in Cattail Silk. Each time, I ended up with a very unattractive scale at the junction of the needles. Strangely, it’s not the first time I’ve knitted with double-pointed needles and the problem wasn’t so glaring. I had to resign myself to making a cat eye lace wrap with my yarn, but I have a disappointment and a questioning that persists. Do you have an explanation/hypothesis on what I’m not doing correctly? 🙁 Thanks very much! Isabelle
Hi Isabelle,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you’re encountering “laddering,” which is unfortunately a common effect of DPNs, frustrating as it is! Laddering is caused by the uneven tension between each needle, and it is often more pronounced in inelastic fibers like silk. But there are solutions!
One way to pretty much get rid of laddering is to shift the stitches around on your DPNs after every couple rounds. This displaces the junctions between needles, so that they fall between different stitches along the length of the sleeve, thus distributing the uneven tension so that it doesn’t all fall in one column.
Another option is to use the magic loop technique instead of using DPNs. Laddering is usually far less noticeable with this method, and many knitters find it easier than DPNs overall! If you’re unfamiliar with magic loop, we have a great tutorial on it right here.
I hope these suggestions help. You’re definitely not doing anything wrong! Laddering is just an unfortunate side effect of using DPNs, and nearly every knitter has experienced it to some degree.
All the best,
Lili
Hi! What about Tussock yarn for this sweater? do you think it would work?
Thanks so much for the graceful design and good suggestions for alteration.
Kay
Hi Kay,
Great question! Although you will need to knit a gauge swatch to make sure, the gauge of Tussock is quite similar to both Linen Quill and Cattail Silk, so I think this would be a wonderful option! You will need 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) skeins of Tussock.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
All the best,
Lili
Help please! I am using the cattail silk yarn. I knitted a swatch on size 4 needles and it came out too big so I knitted another on size 3. It came out to 28 stitches = 4 inches, but 43 rows = 4 inches! I’m not sure how if adjusting the length would work by just adding a few extra rows, especially in the part where you join the sleeves to the body and decrease to the neckline.
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for reaching out. I would actually recommend trying blocking your swatch with the size 4 needles once more! When you block your swatch before measuring it, you can tug it gently in the vertical direction. This will cause the round gauge to grow while simultaneously shrinking the stitch gauge, and it should even out to the correct measurements. I think that adjusting the needle size upwards will help tremendously in this situation, and you’ll likely be able to achieve the correct gauge with some aggressive blocking!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I’m dreading the first part of the sleeves because I’m not so experienced using DPN with fingering weight yarn. Do you have any tips? I feel like the stitches are very uneven in the first few rows. I really love knitting but this part is frustrating for me. HELP!
Hi HCK,
Thanks for reaching out! DPNs can certainly be tricky to get the hang of, I actually am a huge fan of using Magic Loop instead of DPNs, it is much easier to control the stitches and keep the tension even, especially when working with a fingering weight yarn. You can find our tutorial here: Magic Loop
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hello,
Thank you for the pattern and the Zoom session last Saturday, it was pretty helpful and the Knit-Along is a lot of fun.
Quick question: is the last row for the left sleeve the same as for the right sleeve (knit 5, pick up last 10 in a holder, knit to 76 stiches – for size 32)?
Why are 5 stitches taken without knitting in this last row?
Thanks! Nina
Hi Nina,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, both sleeves should be identical! The 10 stitches that are slipped onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn are for the underarms. These will be grafted together with the underarm stitches on the body when you’re finished knitting the entire sweater. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I signed up for the raglan KAL but can’t seem to find a code in the email for the discount on the yarn.
Thanks
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out. For order-related questions, please send us a message at [email protected], as we can better help you out from there!
Thanks,
Lili
Hello,
I am enjoying working on this (my first!) sweater. I have a question about the division round with the body. With my size, I knit 7 and then put the previous 14 stitches on a stitch holder, so half of the stitches on the holder are one less row- right?
When I reach the right arm I put the previous 14 stitches on a holder – but all these stitches are on the same row.
Am I reading this right?
Gwen
Hi Gwen!
Congratulations on working your first sweater! You are correct, when you place the previous 14 stitches on hold for the underarm, this will include the 7 stitches you just knit at the beginning of the current round along with the last 7 stitches of the previous round. (This will also ensure that the held underarm stitches will be centered right over the beginning of the round marker and your sleeve increases!) Both sleeves are knit the same way, so this will apply to both the right and left sleeves.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
I’ve been unable to get a gauge that works. The sleeve circumference, for example, is supposed to be 8 inches and I’m getting 10 inches. Working on a size 3 needle. Should I go down another needle size? Pattern size? Try a different pattern?
Hi Nancy!
Thank you so much for your question. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch on a size 2 needle, to see how your stitch gauge changes on a smaller needle. We have many members of our Knit-Along who had to go down to a size 2 needle, so this change is common for this sweater!
I hope this helps, but please feel free to reach out to us with any other questions you have!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi there! I finished the pullover and I love it, even though it has some small holes from the short rows at the end of the body. I figured out how to do right for the neck. How and where can I upload pictures?
Hi Nina,
Oh that’s so exciting! We’d love to see photos of your sweater! You can either upload them on this page or send them directly to [email protected].
All the best,
Lili
The Lightweight Raglan Pullover is a very fun, educational pattern and your tutorials are extremely helpful! I’ve learned so much already and am already looking forward to knitting a second sweater in cattail silk when I finish the one I’m working on now; however, I’m a bit stuck and hoping you can offer some guidance. I’m ready to shape the neckline and am using the German short row method instead of wrap & turn for shaping. Row 1 instructions state to knit to last stitch and w&t. GSR shaping requires knitting one stitch beyond what the pattern calls for, but that would place my working yarn at the very end of the row. Would you please let me know how to adapt this instruction for GSR shaping? Thanks so much!
Hi Victoria!
Thank you for your comment! We are so glad you are enjoying this pattern. This section is worked the same way, even with German Short Rows. You knit up to the last stitch, which would ordinarily be the w+t, knit that stitch (it’s the extra one!), then turn and work a double stitch. Whenever you’re converting from W&Ts to GSRs, the extra stitch is the stitch that would normally be the W&T.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi again,
Help! I seem to have gotten myself into a little pickle. I recently started the Body portion of my sweater and am completing the “Shape Bottom Edge” section. I am on “Repeat Short Rows 2 through 28 once more”. As I came upon my 3rd and final repeat of Short Row 21 (which would be Short Row 27) I realized that I am 1 stitch short and did not have that final stitch to k1, wrp-t (I accidentally casted on 251 stitches. Is there a way to add a stitch at this point (maybe with a make 1 left?) to avoid taking out the entire work while at the same time being somewhat inconspicuous? Thanks so much!
Hi Kira,
Thanks for writing in. I know just how frustrating it is to realize you’ve cast on too few stitches now that you’re so far along already! I’ve been there many times. I would recommend completing the final short row by wrapping the final stitch, even though it’s still technically one stitch to early. Then, as you’re already thinking, when you begin the next row, you can just work a make 1 increase to add this stitch back in. This will be the most inconspicuous place to add it. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m knitting with the cattail silk, have joined the arms and am working the raglan but it seems like the yarn around the armholes is stretching and will leave gaps. Is there a reason the armhole stitches can’t be grafted together now instead of waiting for the rest of the sweater to be finished?
Hi Chantal,
Thank you for your question! You are welcome to graft together the underarms of your sweater using Kitchener stitch whenever you feel comfortable doing so, assuming you have already joined your body and sleeves together. We put this step at the end of the pattern, since we figured it would be best to do all weaving in the ends and finishing steps together, but we encourage you to do what feels best for you! We also recently covered some tips for closing the gaps in the underarms on our recent Knit-Along Zoom + Knit, and you can find the recordings for those on our YouTube Channel!
I hope this helps, and happy stitching!
All the best,
Margaret
After hours and hours I’m about to finish the bottom short rows. Using GSRs and I can see that the sections between the back and front are not the same length. Any insight as to how this happened? Slavishly following directions. GSRs the problem?
Hi Linda!
Thank you for your question! When substituting German Short Rows for Wrap + Turns, the wrap and turn stitch is the stitch you will be knitting as a double stitch, so perhaps this is where your short rows got off to different starts. Another idea is that when you transition between the front and the back of the sweater to repeat the short row shaping on the other side, it could be the case that your short rows were positioned somewhere else along the back hem instead of at the center of the back. To double check this, I would revisit Row 29 to make sure you have knit across the back stitches to the correct position before repeating the 28 short rows along the back. And finally, if you would prefer to continue on in your sweater without the short rows along the bottom, you can knit the cording stitch and then jump to the CONTINUE TO BODY section for a straight hem.
I hope this helps with your sweater!
All the best,
Margaret
I know row 29 was correct. I loved the shaped hem. I hate W&T. I wish for directions for that section using GSRs. It’s ripped out now and on hold till I find someone who can convert the pattern. I would abandon it if I hadn’t already finished the sleeves.
Hi Linda,
While we do not have a written out version of this pattern for German Short Rows, it is quite an easy conversion! To modify this pattern for GSRs, you’ll need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “knit until 3 stitches remain, wrap and turn,” you’ll actually need to “knit until 2 stitches remain, make double stitch.” Our German Short Rows tutorial shows how to adjust short row instructions from Wrap + Turns to GSRs, starting at 3:45, too!
All the best,
Margaret
Thanks. I’ll watch it. This doesn’t involve the first two turns, right? Very scary to devote so much time doing one side then to realize that the second side isn’t centered. Might need to just do W&T.
You are very welcome, Linda. And yes, this does include the first two short rows! If you feel comfortable knitting Wrap + Turns, then I suggest sticking with those for this portion of the sweater, so that you can follow the pattern as written and feel confident in each stitch!
Please keep me updated on how your sweater goes!
All the best,
Margaret
Yes, sad because I just dislike W&T so much.
I wish I could pay someone to rewrite the short-row portions of that pattern.
Hi Linda,
While we are currently unable to rewrite this pattern because our resources are limited, we appreciate your interest and I will be sure to pass along your feedback to our team! You could try checking on Ravelry to see if a knitter has converted this pattern there, though! If you would like to try rewriting it yourself, all you’d have to do is adjust the instructions by one stitch to account for the double stitch.
All the best,
Margaret
I figured it out!! I first put in an extra marker to divide the total stitches for the hem in half. I could then see that with the extra stitch each time the edge stitches on each side stayed even!!!
That is such good news! Thank you for sharing your update, and we hope the rest of your sweater goes smoothly!
All the best,
Margaret
I have finished my sweater (first largely successful knit!! Yay!!) It is mainly lovely, but the neck is quite tight, so I am wondering if you have advice for enlarging it. I am just a little nervous about it given the short row shaping, and am unsure if I would need to rip all the way back to where they start and start them earlier, or could just pull the opening down a few rows without much drama?
Many thanks!
I am not the only one who has fallen for this sweater- my husband keeps remarking how nice it is. I would like to knit him one, but am worried about the shoulder sizing for a man, and the bottom up nature of the construction means I could potentially waste a lot of time before discovering it does not work. Do you have any advice for adapting the pattern (or advice for other patterns that might be more suitable)?
Hi Karrie!
Thank you for your questions, and congratulations on finishing your sweater! To make the neckline a little looser, you could thread in a lifeline below the cording stitch, and rip back to those stitches. Then, you can either bind off on a larger needle for some extra stretch in the neckline, or use a stretchy rib for the bind off edge in place of the cording stitch.
As for a similar sweater for your husband, our patterns are gender-free and open to interpretation. I do think this one would work out nicely though, especially since the raglan design can fit a variety of shoulder widths comfortably, so I would suggest making sure there is a size that will fit his chest measurement, as well as upper arm diameter and shoulder width to knit. You can find these measurements in the diagram listed under SIZES.
Alternatively, I can recommend our Sweatshirt Sweater, which is a similar design that might catch your eye!
I hope this helps, and please feel free to let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Many thanks!!
You are very welcome, Karrie!
Happy knitting,
Margaret
I am enjoying failing on this first ever sweater for myself.
I have a question about the increases on the sleeve.
For my size I increase every 4th row.
How do you decide where to increase?
I decided to put a stitch marker in and without much thought watched as the increases went off to the right.
Should I have moved the stitch marker over one to the left to split the difference as there are two increases on that round with increases ?
I am pretty sure this would have worked.
Is that what is done?
Thanks!!!
Hi Joyce,
Thanks for reaching out! All of the sleeve increases are based on their position to the end/beginning-of-round marker, which you placed on the very first round. The Increase Round in the SHAPE SLEEVE section indicates exactly where to work them! I’ll paste that below, so we can give it a closer look:
Increase Round: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [2 stitches increased]
On each Increase Round, you will begin by knitting 1 stitch. Then, you’ll do a m1L increase. Then you’ll knit until there is only one stitch left on the round, and then do a m1R increase. Finally, you’ll just knit the last stitch!
I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Are you moving the stitch marker up as you go or eyeballing it as inches begin to create a distance between the marker on the first row and where you are after dozens of rows?
Hi Joyce!
Thank you for your question. The stitch markers in this pattern are meant to be placed between stitches on your needles, slipping them as you come in every round to them unless otherwise stated. This way, you will be able to use them as a reference on each round!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
I am confused about the bottom shaping. I cast on 280 stitches, did the first short row section through 28 rows, then row 29, but it seems as if the shaped bottom is uneven? The first 93 stitches shaped, then on row 29 you knit 93 stitches for the second shaping which seems to leave the remainder, not on either side, but all together?
Hi Betsy,
Thank you for writing in. We’re happy to help clarify these short rows! The first 28 short rows are worked over the first half of the stitches, while the repeat of these 28 rows is worked over the other half of the stitches. This creates for a matching curved hem on both the front and back bottom edge of the garment that should be identical on both sides. It may help to place a stitch marker at the halfway point in your 280 stitches, to use as a reference for where the front short row shaping ends and the back short row shaping begins. Row 29 is the row in which you bridge the gap between the first half of your stitches and second half of your stiches, and will position the beginning of the repeated short row section for the second half of the stitches.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Margaret
I could not grasp how to do the cord so I wonder if there is something else I could do in place of the cord so that the bottom hem will not roll?
Thank you for your help!!
Hi Kay,
Yes, there are indeed a few options if you want an alternative to the cording stitch at the hem! If you want to keep the stockinette look of the entire sweater, then I’d recommend a knit hem. But if you’re alright with a contrasting stitch, then I’d recommend 1 x 1 ribbing or garter stitch!
All the best,
Lili
I cannot get the cording to work so I wondered what I should do to keep the hem from rolling up. Thank you for your help.
Hi Kay,
Thanks so much for your question! To keep the hems from curling, you could try knitting a few rounds of garter stitch or ribbing. This will mitigate any curling and also provide a really nice contrasting texture as well! I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hello.
If I were to knit this in a yarn other that the Purl Soho, what gauge of yarn would I need?
Hi Jenni,
Thanks for reaching out! We used a fingering weight yarn for this pattern, and the gauge is 28 stitches and 33 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch.
As always, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge! If you would like to learn more about this, we have a handy tutorial called All About Gauge, which you can find right here.
Hope this helps you choose a yarn for your project!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I made this Raglan sweater twice – once in Linen Quill and loved it. I have ordered the Cattail Silk and will make the Raglan again and do the swatches. But given the Cattail Silk is “thinner” than the Linen Quill, I am wondering what a good needle size would be to get the 28 sts= 4” gauge. I love the light drape of the Linen Quill sweater and worry about a smaller needle size making the sweater too tight? Thanks, Jo-Ann
Hi Jo-Ann,
Thanks for reaching out. The best way to determine which needles you should use for a project is by making a gauge swatch. Every knitter has a different natural tension, so this way you can figure out what’s best for you. Since Cattail Silk is thinner than Linen Quill, you may need to go up a needle size to achieve gauge, but I can’t say for sure if you will absolutely need to do so. So I’d recommend trying it out once the yarn arrives!
All the best,
Lili
I love this pattern. Will it work in your Cricket yarn? Will the gauge change?
Hi Tracy,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that Cricket wouldn’t be the best yarn for this pattern! That’s because this pattern is designed for a fingering weight yarn, but Cricket is much thicker, since it’s DK weight. Because of that difference, you’ll probably have a difficult time getting the correct gauge with Cricket.
If you have some Cricket on hand already though, you could test this out by knitting a gauge swatch! If you’re able to achieve gauge and enjoy the texture of the knit fabric (it will be much denser than it is in the pattern as originally designed), then you can totally use Cricket.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, I will try that. Is there a reason the website will only allow me to buy 4 skeins of Cricket Madam? I would like 5 or 6.
Thanks.
Hi Tracy,
We only have 4 skeins of Madam in stock, and I’m afraid that we’re planning to stop carrying Cricket, which means we unfortunately won’t be getting any more of the colors back in stock. However, since Anzula (who makes Cricket) is a third-party company, they also sell their yarn elsewhere! I’d recommend checking out Anzula’s own website for alternate locations where they sell their yarns. In the meantime, we do have more than 5 skeins of a few other colors of Cricket, so maybe one of those will catch your eye!
All the best,
Lili
Hello
I am working on the Shape Neckline and Shoulders section of the pattern. I have a question in reference to Short Row 9. Does the second marker identified (“knit to 4 stitches before the next marker”) refer to the “new” end of round marker?
Nancy
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! The marker that you knit to 4 stitches before is the front left raglan marker. At this point, since you’re working flat, not in the round, there actually is no end-of-round marker!
All the best,
Lili
Fairly new to knitting and trying my first sweater, which is daunting, as I haven’t had to follow more complicated instructions yet. In the lightweight raglan sweater pattern on the sleeve, it states: Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 8 rounds. This makes me question if I am doing this correctly. I believe stockinette stitch is knit one row, purl one row, so I am not sure what to do when it says, stockinette stitch knitting each round. Am I knitting every round or the knit one row, purl one row pattern?
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! When knitting flat, stockinette is indeed knit one row and purl one row. However, this pattern is knit primarily in the round, and when knitting in the round, you need to knit every round to create stockinette. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Currently working on the lightweight pullover and was wondering why there was a hole at the BOR marker after finishing the short rows at the bottom hem area. Not sure if I did something wrong. Any insight.
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out. The hole you’re noticing is actually completely normal! It occurs when you wrap and turn both stitches on either side of the marker since the tension naturally is a bit uneven at those positions.
Fortunately, because this is such a common problem, there are multiple great methods to close up the gap! First, you can gently tug on the legs of any loose stitches to distribute the excess yarn over adjacent stitches, tightening them all up. Then, you can reinforce this when you weave in your ends by weaving them in over the gaps from the inside of the sweater! These two techniques combined should make any gaps disappear.
All the best,
Lili
Hi- I’m on the sleeve and wondering if this is correct for size 40- repeat the increase every 6th round 5 (?) times more?? It’s so different from 12 or 18 times more….please clarify, thank you
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for reaching out. I can confirm the increases here are correct as written! Thee rate of increase for each size is carefully calibrated to create the best-fitting sleeve. If you look at the second set of increases (every 5th round, 16 times, for size 40), you can see how it balances out!
All the best,
Lili
hi. sorry maybe I’m being dense but I can’t get the division evenly. I have 252 stitches so I should be able to have 112 for each side as the pattern says but I don’t get the K7 and the K126…
Division Round: K5 (7, 9, 11, 13) (15, 17, 19, 21), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Left Underarm (removing end-of-round marker); k112 (126, 140, 154, 168) (182, 196, 210, 224), place previous 10 (14, 18, 22, 26) (30, 34, 38, 42) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Underarm; knit to Left Underarm (next stitch holder). [204 (224, 244, 264, 284) (304, 324, 344, 364) stitches remain: 102 (112, 122, 132, 142) (152, 162, 172, 182) stitches each for Front and Back]
thanks
Hi Lei,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’d be happy to help clarify the stitch count for your size! Here’s how it breaks down:
Front: 112 stitches
Right Underarm: 14 stitches (on hold)
Back: 112 stitches
Left Underarm: 14 stitches (on hold)
This all adds up to 252! The reason the pattern has you knit 126 stitches is because that’s 112 + 14. You knit across all 126, and then put the previous 14 on scrap yarn, leaving 112 live stitches!
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
thanks lili. so I now have 14 from beginning of round on hold, 112 live stitches, 14 on hold, and 112 live stitches. I’m good?
Hi Lei,
Those stitch counts are correct! However, I’d recommend double checking that the 14 on-hold stitches are in the correct positions. They should actually be in this order from the beginning of the round: 7 on-hold stitches, 112 live stitches, 14 on-hold stitches, 112 live stitches, 7 on-hold stitches (these 7 are on the same stitch holder or scrap yarn as the first 7). It’s a slight difference, but it’ll make sure that your sleeves end up in the correct places!
All the best,
Lili
I have knitted two of these sweaters, which I love. I wear them all the time. A perfect and flattering fit.
I am wondering if knitting without the short rows at the hemline is possible because I would like to introduce some colorwork – I have four colors of linen quill that I would like to incorporate.
I’m just nervous that without the shaping, the sweater will not drape so well.
Any ideas?
X
Hi Charlotte,
We’re so happy to hear that you’ve enjoyed making this sweater pattern! A version with color work at the hemline sounds absolutely fabulous! I think even without the short rows the sweater will still have plenty of drape, so you can omit them. If you’re knitting with Linen Quill, the alpaca and linen content will still provide lots of drape, especially after washing and blocking. Depending on the type of color work you’re doing, I’d recommend knitting up a swatch of the motif just to see if you would prefer to change up your needle size or make any adjustments. Color work might make the fabric a bit denser or change your gauge, so knitting a swatch to make sure your gauge is consistent throughout the project as well as with the pattern can help you get a sense of the final fabric before you cast on! I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
hello again lili. I can’t figure out the neckline and shoulder shaping set up round instructions. my stitch numbers are correct but I don’t know how I get to having 19 stitches for left and right front. I’m doing size 40
Set-Up Round: Knit to next marker, sm, k36 (38, 41, 43, 45) (48, 50, 52, 55), place previous 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Front Neckline, knit to end of round. [138 (140, 146, 152, 154) (160, 166, 168, 174) total stitches remain: 18 (18, 19, 19, 19) (20, 20, 20, 21) stitches each for Left and Right Front; 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) (68, 70, 72, 76) stitches for Back; 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) stitches for each Sleeve]
Hi Leilani,
Hmmmm, 19 stitches each for the left and right fronts is actually correct for your size! Was there a different place that the stitch count was off? Or am I misinterpreting your comment and you haven’t been getting 19 stitches there? If so, it would be helpful to know how many stitches you do have on the left and right fronts, as well as how many stitches you put on hold for the front neckline.
All the best,
Lili
I have a question about this same thing.
Instruction says to knit nine, then place the previous 18 stitches onto a stitch holder. Does this include the 9 stitches just knitted at the beginning of the round?
If so, can’t I just place a marker after the first nine stitches, count back to the previous nine and place a marker, then knit around as instructed, then divide the stitches and place on waste yarn? So that would be 18 on one waste yarn and the other 86 onto another, as written?
Thanks so much,
Hi Anna,
Thanks for your question! For this step, you will knit 9 stitches and then place those 9 plus the 9 before on a single holder or length of scrap yarn. I would recommend knitting the pattern exactly as follows for the best result but if you are having difficulties, you can send in a photo of your project to [email protected]. This can help us better visualize the issue and do our best to get you back on track!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thanks for your reply; it does clear things up. I will work it out and follow up if I have any more questions.
Hi there,
I’d really like to knit this sweater in a size 38 which of course is between sizes S and M. I’ve made a swatch to accurate gauge using cattail silk. I’d cast on 266 stitches. Do you have any advice on how to calculate the bottom edge shaping rows and the shoulder and neckline setup rows? I’ve considered drawing them out on graph paper but thought to ask if you know of an easier way. I think I can manage downsizng the sleeves and shaping the raglan. Thanks for any thoughts or ideas.
Marite
Hi Marite,
I would recommend making the size 3 which is designed to fit actual bust sizes of 36-39 inches. This size will ensure you don’t have to do any calculations yourself as they are already written into the pattern. Unfortunately, calculating outside of the size range included is outside of the scope of help we can offer at this time but I believe the fit of the size 3 would be a wonderful option.
Another option is to knit with a smaller needle size to calculate your own gauge for the pattern and see if those new numbers work when compared to the pattern measurements provided but again, alterations of this nature are outside of the support we are able to offer at the moment.
Warmly,
Gavriella
I am currently knitting the sleeve and the length given in the instructions seems to be a little too short for my arm. Where should the sleeve reach on my arm when I wear it?
Hi G.W.,
Thank you for writing in! The sleeves should sit right above your palm, fully covering your arm. If you are not sure about the length, I would add in a lifeline before finishing your sweater cuffs, block your sweater, and give it a try on. If you think you need more length then you can go ahead and knit a few additional rounds of stockinette before finishing your cuffs.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi Gavriella,
thank you for your answer. I’m so sorry, it is not quite what I was hoping for. Please excuse my awkward phrasing, English is not my native language and this is my fist pullover ever.
According to the instructions, we start knitting the sleeve with the cuff and work ourselves up the arm before we join the sleeve with the body of the Lightweight Raglan Pullover. Should the sleeve at this point reach the shoulder or the beginning of the biceps or should it end 2 inches below the armpit?
Thanks again and all the best,
G.W.
Hi G.W,
I apologize for that misunderstanding! Your sleeve in this case will technically be a little longer than your body but should reach about an inch or two below your underarm before joining with the body stitches to knit the yoke. I hope this makes sense but if it is easier to send in a photo of your work so far, our team is also always available at [email protected]
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you! Yes, that is very hellpful.
Hi. I’m a left handed knitter. Can I follow this pattern as is, or do I have to translate (reverse) any of the instructions (e.g. German short rows). Thanks!
Hi Gina,
You can follow the instructions as is! This pattern is completely symmetrical, so it’ll turn out looking the same.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!
Hi, not sure if I’m understanding the cording for the neck. Is it the same as the cord g for the bottom and sleeves? It looks like there are less rows but not sure. Thanks for your help.
Hi Arlene,
Yes! The cording stitch around the neckline is the same as it is around the bottom hem and sleeve cuffs.
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I’m making a size 48. I finished shaping the raglan and am starting the
ALL SIZES RAGLAN DECREASE.
After I do the first raglan decrease [decreasing by 8 total stitches], the instruction says
Continuing in stockinette stitch,
repeat Raglan Decrease Round every round 0 (0, 2, 4, 6) (10, 14, 16, 16) more times, then every other round 23 (27, 28, 27, 28) (27, 23, 21, 20) more times. [156 (160, 168, 176, 180) (188, 196, 200, 208) total stitches remain: 54 (56, 60, 62, 64) (68, 70, 72, 76) stitches each for Front and Back; 24 (24, 24, 26, 26) (26, 28, 28, 28) stitches for each Sleeve
When it says “continue in stockinette stitch” – you dont mean do 1 round of stockinette, right?
After I do the very FIRST raglan decrease, do I immediately repeat the raglan decrease 6 more times? Then start alternating between a stockinette round and a decrease round.
Your help is much appreciated 🙂 thank you
Hi Grace,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you repeat the Raglan Decrease Round 6 more times to start, and then you alternate plain stockinette rounds with the Raglan Decrease Round until you’ve worked it 28 more times (so 56 more rounds total). Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much!!