Sweatshirt Sweater
I grew up wearing a school uniform, which, for me, turns out to be a hard habit to kick. Some people seem to totally reject their childhoods of forced attire, opting for recklessly eclectic wardrobes. But I can’t fight it; I’m a uniform kid, through and through.
I am sure you’ll be relieved to read I am no longer sporting ill-fitting plaid jumpers, but there is rarely a day that goes by that I’m not in my own personal uniform. Lately, it’s been dark-wash Levi’s paired with some form of a baseball T or an athletic-gray sweatshirt. Naturally, I need handknit interpretations of these basics! I accomplished the first this past autumn when I stitched up the Everyday Linen Raglan. And now, I’m happy to add a thicker, cozier, woolier version to my collection… the Sweatshirt Sweater!
The Sweatshirt Sweater is my new go-to garb, spacious enough for under-layers and soft enough to go without. It’s knit in Swans Island 100% organic merino, a beautiful light worsted yarn that evokes a natural refinement. I’ll be in this uniform for these last snowy days of March, all the way through the crisp nights of spring!
Spoiler alert: as the seasons change, so does my uniform, so keep your eye out for some more knit basics in the months to come! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoSweatshirtSweater. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 9, 9) skeins of Swans Island’s Worsted, 100% organic merino wool. Each skein is 250 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1095 (1250, 1375, 1495, 1620) (1750, 1940, 2110, 2265) yards required. We used the color Seasmoke.
NOTE: We no longer carry Swans Island’s Worsted. A wonderful alternative is Purl Soho’s Morning, 75% organically grown cotton and 25% yak; approximately 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) (10, 11, 11, 12) skeins required.
You’ll also need…
- A set of US 6 (4 mm) double pointed needles
- US 6, 16-inch circular needles
- US 6, 24-inch or 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 7 (4.5 mm) double pointed needles
- US 7, 24- or 32-inch circular needles
- Spare US 7, 16-inch or longer circular needles (optional, needed only if making Pouch)
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- A removable stitch marker
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
22 stitches and 28 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette using larger needles
Sizes
33¾ (37½, 41, 44¾, 48¼) (52, 55¾, 59¼, 63)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46) (48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) with 4-6 inches of ease.
- Finished Chest Circumference: 33¾ (37½, 41, 44¾, 48¼) (52, 55¾, 59¼, 63) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 14 (13¾, 13½, 13¾, 13¾) (14, 14¼, 14¾, 15) inches, with directions to adjust
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Underarm: 8½ (9¼, 9¾, 9¾, 10) (10, 10¼, 10¼, 10½) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 16 (16¼, 17¼, 17½, 17½) (17½, 17½, 17½, 17¾) inches, with direction to adjust
Sample: The sweater shown here is size 37½, worn with 3½ inches of ease.
NOTE: We have updated this pattern to include more sizes. If, for some reason, you would like the original pattern, please contact customerservice@purlsoho.com, and we’ll send you the PDF!
Notes
SK2P (SLIP 1, K2TOG, PSSO)
Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch and off the needle. [2 stitches decreased]
K3TOG (KNIT 3 TOGETHER)
Insert right needle into next three stitches knitwise, knit all three stitches together as if they were one stitch. [2 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Sleeves
Work Cuff
With smaller double pointed needles, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 42 (45, 45, 45, 48) (51, 51, 54, 57) stitches.
Place unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 3 inches from cast-on edge.
Shape Sleeve
Change to larger double pointed needles.
Next Round: K35 (38, 38, 38, 41) (44, 44, 47, 50), place marker (pm), [p1, k2] 2 times, p1.
**Increase Round: Make 1 left (m1L), knit to next marker, make 1 right (m1R), slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] 2 times, p1. [2 stitches increased]
Next Round: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1.
Repeat last round 4 (5, 4, 2, 1) (1, 1, 1, 1) more time(s).
Repeat from ** 8 (9, 12, 18, 15) (15, 20, 22, 24) more times. [60 (65, 71, 83, 80) (83, 93, 100, 107) stitches]
***Repeat Increase Round. [2 stitches increased]
Next Round: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1.
Repeat last round 6 (7, 6, 4, 3) (3, 3, 3, 3) more times.
Repeat from *** 2 (0, 0, 1, 7) (7, 4, 3, 1) more time(s). [66 (67, 73, 87, 96) (99, 103, 108, 111) stitches]
Repeat Increase Round. [68 (69, 75, 89, 98) (101, 105, 110, 113) stitches]
Next Round: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1.
Repeat last round until piece measures 16 (16¼, 17¼, 17½, 17½) (17½, 17½, 17½, 17¾) inches from cast-on edge, or to desired length to Underarm.
Next Round: Knit 0 (1, 3, 5, 7) (9, 11, 13, 15), place previous 7 (9, 13, 17, 21) (25, 29, 33, 37) stitches onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers.
Place remaining 61 (60, 62, 72, 77) (76, 76, 77, 76) stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.
Make a second Sleeve identical to the first.
Body
Work Bottom Ribbing
With smaller 24- or 32-inch circular needles, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 168 (186, 204, 222, 240) (258, 276, 294, 312) stitches.
Place unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 2¼ (2¼, 2¼, 2½, 2½) (2½, 2½, 2½, 2½) inches from cast-on edge.
Begin Main Body
Increase Round: *K5, knit 1 in front and back (kfb), [k8, kfb] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) (13, 14, 15, 16) times, [k2, p1] 2 times, repeat from * to end of round. [186 (206, 226, 246, 266) (286, 306, 326, 346) stitches]
Next Round: With larger 24- or 32-inch circular needles, *k86 (96, 106, 116, 126) (136, 146, 156, 166), pm, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Next Round: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until piece measures 3¼ (3¼, 3¼, 3½, 3½) (3½, 3½, 3½, 3½) inches from cast-on edge.
Make Pouch (Optional)
NOTE: If you are not making a Pouch, skip to Continue Body section, below.
MARK FOR POUCH + WORK BODY
Set-Up Round: K7 (11, 15, 19, 23) (27, 31, 35, 39), mark 7th (11th, 15th, 19th, 23th) (27th, 31th, 35th, 39th) stitch with removable stitch marker, *knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Work in established pattern until piece measures 10½ (11, 11¼, 11½, 11¾) (11¾, 12¼, 12¼, 12¼) inches from cast-on edge.
Leave working yarn attached to Body.
With spare larger circular needles, starting with (and including) marked stitch, slip needle under right leg of next 74 (76, 78, 80, 82) (84, 86, 88, 90) stitches.
Remove removable marker.
WORK POUCH
With right side facing you, join yarn to Pouch stitches on spare needles and work back and forth in rows over just these 74 (76, 78, 80, 82) (84, 86, 88, 90) stitches…
Row 1 (right side): K1, p1, [k2, p1] 2 times, knit to last 8 stitches, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): P1, k1, [p2, k1] 2 times, purl to last 8 stitches, [k1, p2] 2 times, k1, p1.
Row 3 (Decrease Row): K1, p1, [k2, p1] 2 times, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to last 10 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog), [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 4-7: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 two times. [4 stitches decreased]
Row 8: Repeat Row 2.
Row 9: Repeat Row 1.
Row 10: Repeat Row 2.
Repeat Rows 3–10 four (4, 5, 5, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5) more times. [44 (46, 42, 44, 46) (48, 50, 52, 54) stitches remain]
Repeat Row 3 then Row 2 four (4, 3, 3, 4) (4, 4, 6, 6) more time(s). [36 (38, 36, 38, 38) (40, 42, 40, 42) stitches remain]
Repeat Row 3 then Rows 8-10 zero (1, 0, 0, 0) (0, 1, 0, 0) more time(s). [36 (36, 36, 38, 38) (40, 40, 40, 42) stitches remain]
Cut yarn, leaving stitches on needles.
GRAFT POUCH TO BODY
Returning to Body and continuing with working yarn, k25 (30, 35, 39, 44) (48, 53, 58, 62); holding Pouch and Body needles parallel to each other with Pouch in front, *k1 from Pouch together with one from Body, repeat from * until all Pouch stitches have been knit; continuing in the round with Body stitches, **knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, repeat from ** to end of round.
Continue Body
Work in established pattern until Body measures 14 (14, 13½, 13½, 13¼) (13½, 14, 14½, 14½) inches from cast-on edge or desired length to Underarms.
Divide Front + Back
Dividing Round: [Knit to next marker, remove marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, k 0 (1, 3, 5, 7) (9, 11, 13, 15), place previous 7 (9, 13, 17, 21) (25, 29, 33, 37) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Underarm] 2 times. [172 (188, 200, 212, 224) (236, 248, 260, 272) total stitches remain: 86 (94, 100, 106, 112) (118, 124, 130, 136) stitches each for Front and Back]
Join Body + Sleeves
NOTE: For help with this step, please visit our Joining Sleeves To Body tutorial.
Joining Round: [Knit to next set of on-hold stitches, pm, holding Sleeve’s on-hold Underarm stitches parallel to Body’s on-hold Underarm stitches, knit Sleeve stitches, pm] 2 times, using unique marker for last marker (new end of the round). [294 (308, 324, 356, 378) (388, 400, 414, 424) total stitches: 86 (94, 100, 106, 112) (118, 124, 130, 136) stitches each for Front and Back; 61 (60, 62, 72, 77) (76, 76, 77, 76) stitches for each Sleeve]
Yoke
Begin Raglan Shaping
Round 1: *P1, k2, p1, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to three stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 two more times.
Decrease Round: *P1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end of round. [8 stitches decreased]
Repeat Round 1.
Repeat last two rounds 15 (17, 19, 18, 19) (19, 18, 17, 18) more times, then repeat Decrease Round 1 more time. [158 (156, 156, 196, 210) (220, 240, 262, 264) total stitches remain: 52 (56, 58, 66, 70) (76, 84, 92, 96) stitches each for Front and Back; 27 (22, 20, 32, 35) (34, 36, 39, 36) stitches for each Sleeve]
Continue Raglan + Shape Neckline
NOTE: In this section you will be working back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
SIZES 33¾, 37½, 41, 44¾, AND 48¼ ONLY
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k22 (24, 25, 29, 31) (-, -, -, -), turn work so wrong side is facing you. (This is now the end of the row, and the end-of-round marker is just a regular marker.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) (-, -, -, -) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [152 (150, 149, 188, 202) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
Row 3 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) (-, -, -, -) stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [138 (136, 134, 172, 186) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
Row 4: Bind off 3 (3, 3, 3, 4) (-, -, -, -) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [135 (133, 131, 169, 182) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
Row 5 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 (3, 3, 3, 4) (-, -, -, -) stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [124 (122, 120, 158, 170) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
Row 6: Bind off 2 (2, 2, 2, 3) (-, -, -, -) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [122 (120, 118, 156, 167) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
Row 7 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 (2, 2, 2, 3) (-, -, -, -) stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [112 (110, 108, 146, 156) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
SIZE 33¾ ONLY
Row 8: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Row 9 (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [10 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 8 and 9 two more times. [82 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Fronts; 40 stitches for Back; 15 stitches for each Sleeve]
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [74 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 38 stitches for Back; 13 stitches for each Sleeve]
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [66 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 34 stitches for Back; 11 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 37½ ONLY
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 two more times. [86 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 46 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [80 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 44 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [74 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 40 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [70 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 36 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 41 ONLY
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 once more. [96 total stitches remain: 11 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 50 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [94 stitches remain]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [88 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 48 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [82 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 46 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [76 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 42 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [72 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 38 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 44¾ ONLY
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 two more times. [122 total stitches remain: 11 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 56 stitches for Back; 22 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [120 stitches remain]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [108 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 52 stitches for Back; 20 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [96 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 48 stitches for Back; 18 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [86 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 44 stitches for Back; 16 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [78 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 40 stitches for Back; 14 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 48¼ ONLY
Row 8: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [154 stitches remain]
Row 9 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [144 stitches remain: 14 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 62 stitches for Back; 27 stitches for each Sleeve]
Row 10: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 11 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 10 and 11 one more time. [116 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 54 stitches for Back; 23 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [104 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 50 stitches for Back; 21 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [94 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 46 stitches for Back; 19 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [86 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 42 stitches for Back; 17 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 52 ONLY
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k34, turn work so wrong side is facing you. (This is now the end of the row, and the end-of-round marker is just a regular marker.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 9 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [211 stitches remain]
Row 3 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 9 stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [194 stitches remain]
Row 4: Bind off 4 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [190 stitches remain]
Row 5 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 4 stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [178 stitches remain]
Row 6: Bind off 3 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [175 stitches remain]
Row 7 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [162 stitches remain]
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 one more time. [146 total stitches remain: 15 stitches each for Right and Left Fronts; 64 stitches for Back, 26 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rows 1 more time. [118 total stitches remain: 9 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 56 stitches for Back; 22 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [116 stitches remain]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 stitches knitwise, k1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1, ssk. [104 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 52 stitches for Back; 20 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [94 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 48 stitches for Back; 18 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [86 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 44 stitches for Back; 16 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 55¾ ONLY
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k38, turn work so wrong side is facing you. (This is now the end of the row, and the end-of-round marker is just a regular marker.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 10 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [230 stitches remain]
Row 3 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 10 stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [212 stitches remain]
Row 4: Bind off 4 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [208 stitches remain]
Row 5 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 4 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [194 stitches remain]
Row 6: Bind off 3 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [3 stitches decreased]
Row 7 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [13 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 two more times. [146 total stitches remain: 14 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 66 stitches for Back; 26 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rows 1 more time. [118 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 58 stitches for Back; 22 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [106 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 54 stitches for Back; 20 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [96 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 50 stitches for Back; 18 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [88 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 46 stitches for Back; 16 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 59¼ ONLY
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k42, turn work so wrong side is facing you. (This is now the end of the row, and the end-of-round marker is just a regular marker.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 10 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [252 stitches remain]
Row 3 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 10 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [232 stitches remain]
Row 4: Bind off 5 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [227 stitches remain]
Row 5 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 5 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [212 stitches remain]
Row 6: Bind off 3 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [3 stitches decreased]
Row 7 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [13 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 two more times. [164 total stitches remain: 17 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 72 stitches for Back; 29 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rows 2 more times. [122 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 60 stitches for Back; 23 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [110 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 56 stitches for Back; 21 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [100 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 52 stitches for Back; 19 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [92 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 48 stitches for Back; 17 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 63 ONLY
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k44, turn work so wrong side is facing you. (This is now the end of the row, and the end-of-round marker is just a regular marker.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 12 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [252 stitches remain]
Row 3 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 12 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [230 stitches remain]
Row 4: Bind off 5 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [225 stitches remain]
Row 5 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 5 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [210 stitches remain]
Row 6: Bind off 3 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [3 stitches decreased]
Row 7 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [13 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 two more times. [162 total stitches remain: 17 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 76 stitches for Back; 26 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rows 2 more times. [120 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 64 stitches for Back; 20 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [108 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 60 stitches for Back; 18 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [98 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 56 stitches for Back; 16 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [94 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 52 stitches for Back; 16 stitches for each Sleeve]
Neckband
NOTE: In this section, you will again be working in the round and no longer back and forth in rows.
Pick-Up Round: Continuing with right side facing you and now using smaller 16-inch circular needles, pm (new end of round), pick up and knit 27 (32, 30, 36, 40) (49, 56, 58, 62) stitches evenly along front Neckline; continuing around remaining live stitches, *k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round. [93 (102, 102, 114, 126) (135, 144, 150, 156) stitches]
Next Round: *K1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until Neckband measures 1¼ (1¼, 1¼, 1¼, 1¼) (1½, 1½, 1½, 1½) inches.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Finishing
Graft Underarms
Slip one pair of Underarm stitches from stitch holders to two double pointed needles. Holding needles parallel to each other, use Kitchener Stitch to graft Underarm closed.
Repeat for second Underarm.
Weave In + Block
Weave in the ends, sewing up any holes at Underarms, if necessary, then block as desired, and you are finished!
The pattern page on Ravelry for this sweater states that an errata is available, but the link is not good. Can I assume that the pattern on this page is correct? Thanks!
Hi Peachy,
Thanks for reaching out! We did find an error in this pattern a few years ago, but the correction has been incorporated into the pattern above so you can knit it as written. For future reference, you can find our Errata page by clicking here!
Best,
Julianna
On page 18, there are directions for all the sizes but the small. How do I proceed?
Hi Lark,
Thanks for reaching out! When specific directions for your size aren’t given, you can skip over the instructions for the other sizes and continue with the next set of instructions that are written for all sizes.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
I’m at the point where it says:
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k22 (24, 26, 28, 30), turn work so that wrong side (the inside of the sweater) is facing you. Where you just turned will now be considered the end of the row, and what was previously considered the end-of-round marker is now just a regular marker.
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row. 152 (166, 174, 186, 198) total stitches
My first question is about Row 2 and which stitches I’m binding off. I’m making a Large, so are the 8 stitches I’m binding off the same stitches that I’ve just knit in Row 1, or do I continue in the same direction that I was going in Row 1? The yarn is in my left needle and I’m confused which direction I go.
My second question is: when I’m binding off those 8 stitches, do I purl new stitches in order to bind them off or do I bind off purlwise the existing stitches on the needle from the previous round? Sorry for the stupid questions and thank you in advance.
Hi Tannis,
Thanks for reaching out! You will be binding off the last, or most recent, 8 stitches you just knitted, and they should be in the middle of the front of the sweater for the center front neckline. After you turn to the wrong side, your yarn should be attached to the first stitch on the left hand needle so you are ready to start binding off. When directed to bind off a certain number of stitches, you will start by purling two more stitches, but will only count the stitches that you pass over as bound off stitches.
I hope that clears things up, and please don’t hesitate to ask if you have any more questions – we are always here to help!
Julianna
I just picked up stitches on neck… has anyone switched back to 6 needles? 7 seems loose for the neck ribbing.
Hi Wendy,
Thank you for writing in! The pattern does state to switch back to your smaller 16″ needle to pick up the neckband stitches, so you’re exactly right! In general the ribbing of cuffs, hem, and collar will always be knit in the same size, usually a smaller one than the rest of the sweater. Please feel free to share a photo of your sweater when it is finished, we would love to see the results!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
I would love to knit this sweater in Good Wool. Can you give me an estimate of how many skeins I would need for sizes XS and Small? Thanks!
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for reaching out! This sweater will be wonderful in Good Wool! You will need three skeins for the extra small, or four skeins for the small.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
This is a beautiful looking sweater but I’m wondering if one could somewhat easily add a hood to it instead of using the neckband described in the pattern. Any suggestions of how to go about it?
I’m a sock person, sweaters are a somewhat new feat and I’m trying to find a nice standard pattern for the family hoodies since hoodies seem to be uber-popular. Thank you so much!
Hi Steffi,
Thanks for writing in! Although we don’t have instructions or a pattern for a hood, it is certainly possible to add one to this sweater instead of the collar ribbing! If you google “how to add a hood to a knitted sweater,” you should find several tutorials for drafting your own.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
In the Notes section, 2 2-stitch decreases are explained (sk2p, k3tog). But these decreases aren’t used. The 2 decreases that are used (ssk, k2tog) are not explained.
Why?
Hi Kendra,
Thanks for writing in! The k2tog and ssk decreases are very standard decreases that are used in many, many knitting patterns, so we didn’t include specific instructions, but you can learn how to do them from our Knit Two Together (k2tog) Tutorial and Slip Slip Knit (ssk) Tutorial! You may not have gotten to the special double decreases yet, as they aren’t used until the end of the yoke shaping and are only required for some sizes of the sweater.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello!
I’m adding a thumbhole to the cuff and thus I’m not entirely sure how long to knit the ribbing for. Approximately how far past the wrist bone/bottom of the palm should the cuff transition into the sleeve?
Thank you!
Hi Chloe,
Thanks for writing in, and what a neat modification! Our ribbing measured 3 inches, beginning at the base of the hand or just below the wrist bone, for a full-length long sleeve. Just to make sure your thumb hole ends up in the wrong place, I would recommend trying on the sleeve to make sure it reaches your armpit before moving on to the next part of the sweater. You can easily shorten or lengthen the sleeve at the top if necessary!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there – knitting this lovely sweater, and it is going great! Just because I noticed that “cut yarn” is only specifically included for the pouch, I have to ask before I make the cut: can I cut the yarn when I am done w each sleeve? I assume yes, but really would like the confirmation! Thanks again for this great project – Camilla
Hi Camilla,
Thanks for writing in – it’s wonderful to hear that you are enjoying knitting this sweater so much! Yes, after you finish each sleeve, you can cut your yarn and set them aside. Please let us know if there’s anything else we can clarify for you!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! Just finished this sweater as the first knitting project – aside from socks – in decades. So happy with the result! Thanks again for this great pattern – easy to follow, beautiful end product.
Hi there! Love this pattern. Quick question – would you say the sizing is for a unisex sweater? I’m hoping to make for my boyfriend, but women’s sweaters tend to have shorter arms and more narrow waist/shoulder measurements.
Also, would you say the Purl Soho Cashmere Merino Bloom yarn makes an ok substitution?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Gabby,
Thanks for reaching out! What a great idea! This pattern is designed in women’s sizing but I believe it would be very easy to adjust the measurements to fit your boyfriend! You may want to order additional skeins of yarn to adjust the sleeve length/circumference of the body and if you don’t end up using it you can return them for store credit within 6 months as long as they are still in skeins. I also think Cashmere Merino Bloom would be a perfect yarn for this pattern! I would recommend doing a gauge swatch before beginning to make sure your gauge is in line with the pattern!
You will have to let us know how this goes! Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello, read the all the comments to be sure I am not repeating a question. Can you please help me understand k7, mark this 7th stitch with a removable marker, *knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from *to end of round. Do I leave the marker where it is and continue until the piece measures 10 1/2in from cast on edge. I am knitting a size medium. Making the pouch is kind of scaring me. Thank you for any help.
Hi Micki,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, once you do the set up round and place the stitch marker you continue on until the piece measure 10 1/2″ with the stitch marker in place the whole time!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions going forward!
All the best,
Gianna
Apologies if I’m missing something, but as far as I can tell in the section “Large size only” you only decrease twice, but are supposed to go from 100 total stitches to 90. I can’t see a place where it tells you to reduce anything else but then the XL size had a different type of decrease and is supposed to end up the same number of stitches. Am I supposed be decreasing more for size large at This point?
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! Where are you in the pattern at the moment, what section are you working on?
All the best,
Gianna
I am in the section titled “large size only” which is after “continue raglan and shape crew neck”. At the end of “continue raglan and shape crew neck” it said Repeat Rows 8 and Row 9 two (3, 4, 3, 4) more times. 82 (86, 84, 100, 102) total stitches: 12 (12, 12, 12, 12) total for the front, 40 (42, 44, 50, 52) for back, 15 (16, 14, 19, 19) for each sleeve. I am making a large so I have 12 total stitches in front, 50 in back, and 19 for each sleeve. But when I get to “large size only” it said
Repeat Row 8. (Did that)
Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve.
As far as I can tell there is only one ssk and one k2tog and I still had 12 stitches in the front, 19 for each sleeve, and like 48 in the back. I know I could just throw a couple more ssks and k2togs in there but I don’t want to mess this up, I have been working on this sweater for 4 years (sad but true!) and I would just hate to mess it up at the end. XL seems to have the same issue. I am sure I must be missing something as no one else has asked about this!
Thank you so much for your help. I’ve been loving this pattern and the sweater is looking gorgeous!
Hi Sara,
Thanks for the information! So it looks like you may have missed a set of instructions in the CONTINUE RAGLAN AND SHAPE CREW NECK section. After working rows 1-9 and then Repeat Rows 8 and Row 9 two (3, 4, 3, 4) more times, you then work the next section FOR XS (SMALL, LARGE, XLARGE) SIZES ONLY where you will Repeat Row 8. Next Row: [Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 74 (78, 92, 94) stitches: 10 for right and left front, 38 (40, 48, 50) for back, 13 (14, 17, 17) for each sleeve. You then move on to the section FOR LARGE SIZE ONLY and work that repeat
I hope this helps and I can’t wait to hear how the sweater turns out!
All the best,
Gianna
Oh my gosh I just kind of read XS and skipped that. Thank you so much.
The sizing is confusing. My bust is 40, a medium but my hips are also 40, an xtra large. What in the world should I do?
Hi Laurey,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the pattern starts from the bottom up I would recommend following the sections for the XL size and then once you get past the pocket section working evenly spaced decreases on either side till you get closer to the stitch count of the M size fro the bust and shoulder section!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
are there any photos of the side of the sweater? I must be doing it correctly (lol) but it is not doing what I assume (?) it should be doing.
I am doing size M and have just increased after the bottom ribbing to 226 sts. Then I have changed needle size and done Next Round: With larger, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, *k86 (96, 106, 116, 126), place different color marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
After placing the difft. color marker and doing p1k2 twice, plus the p1, then knitting to the next marker I have knit an extra 11 sts beyond the 106. Should I put a marker after the 106 sts and then k the 11 sts to the next marker? That does not seem correct.
Hi Ell,
Thanks for reaching out! So after knitting 106 stitch you then place the marker and then p1, k2 two times and then p1. You then repeat those steps exactly from the *.
I hope this clarifies things!
Gianna
I love this pattern and am very interested in making it, but it is not available in my size. Are you ever planning to make a size inclusive version of this pattern?
Hi Alicia,
Thanks for reaching out! We are very sorry that this pattern isn’t currently in your size range. We really do appreciate that bodies come in all shapes and sizes and share your concern that patterns be as inclusive as possible. We are in the midst of expanding the size range of all our sweater patterns and are happy to report that many of them now fit chest sizes up to 62-64 inches. We are steadily working to make sure this is true of all our patterns. Please be on the lookout, and thank you so much for adding your voice to this issue. We greatly appreciate your feedback!
All the best,
Gianna
Thank you for the quick and thoughtful response! I will keep an eye out for updates. 🙂
I’m loving this pattern. I am making the xsmall and working on my first sleeve. I followed the gauge and noticed my sleeve comes up short! It is 13.5 inches from edge of the sleeve to the armpit instead of the stated 16. I can’t figure out what I did wrong! Is it ok to just keep knitting rows without adding stitches until I get to my desired length? I’m short so didn’t expect the sleeve to be too short for me!
Hi Liza,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you are enjoying this pattern! Hmm I am not sure what could have caused that, but if you already have the correct stitch count you can absolutely work more rows without increasing to get the accurate length!
All the best,
Gianna
Thank you for this pattern, I am so excited to make it for myself. I have only made a couple baby sweaters, so this will be an adventure! I have searched through the Ravelry comments, as well as the comments on this site, and nobody else seems to have the issue that I am having, which makes me feel foolish. Any time I have used a pattern and there have been repeats, I thought it was repeat * to *, so I struggled with the part of the pattern with the sleeve.
** Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two times, p1. (2 stitches increased)
Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1.
Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times.
Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more times. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) stitches
So from this, I repeated round 3, 14 times. Obviously this is not correct. Am I to repeat round 3, round 4 and the round 4 repeat as a whole?
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out! I know the double asterisk can be a bit confusing since it is different than most patterns but for that section you will be repeating Round 3 and Round 4, 14 times!
I hope this helps and please reach out if you have any more questions!
All the best,
Gianna
I’m planning on making this sweater sweatshirt. I need a recommendation on sizing. If my chest measures 42″ and my hips 43″ would you recommend I make this sweater in Large or ExtraLarge. All my other measurements line up with Large – but I’m not sure which way to go. Any suggestions from your experience?
Hi Margi,
Thanks for reaching out! Keep in mind the finished sizes include 3 1/2 inches of ease, so the large would be a bit more fitted and the XL will be a bit more of a loose fit based off your measurements! Either would work it just depends on the fit you would like to achieve!
Warmly,
Gianna
thanks so much – you are always to most helpful and I wouldn’t be able to finish most of my projects if it weren’t for the helpful YouTube tutorials. I always recommend Purl Soho to all my knitting pals even those of us who live in Canada. You are the BEST!!!
Hi there! I love this pattern . I made one already in an XL I wear it but it is too big. I am going to make it again in a L instead. Here are my 2 questions
1. I have a stash of super wash worsted Plymouth which lists a gauge of 5 sets per inch. Can that work?
2. Sleeves are always too long. What is the best way to make a shorter sleeve!
Margie
Hi Margie,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that yarn should work great! I do recommend always working a gauge swatch whenever using a different yarn than what the pattern suggest to insure you are consistent with the written gauge! The easiest way to shorten the sleeve section without interfering with the shaping would be to shorten the cuff!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m having the best time ever making this sweater. I’m almost at the finish line but have a quick question. After the row 8 and 9 repeats, etc. it says:
Continuing with the right side facing you and now using the smaller, 16-inch circular needle, pm (new beginning of round), pick up 30 (33, 36 ,36 ,39) stitches evenly along the front neckline. Continuing around the remaining 66 (78, 78, 90, 90) stitches, *k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round. 96 (111, 114, 126, 129) stitches
Next Round: *K1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Two questions – a) is this pick up stitches knitted only for the 39 stitches (making XL) and then switch to K1, p1, K1 and b) in the photos the neckband looks like the bottom and cuffs which are K2, P2. So what am I to do?
Hi Margi,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you are enjoying this sweater! You are completely on the right track, since you already should have the 90 stitches on your needles from working the back, you will only pick up the 39 stitches around the front of the neck! As for the Neck, the k1, p1, k1 repeat is correct and insures that the ribs aligns with the ribs going up the raglan shaping. If you repeat the k1, p1, k1, the two ks end up next to each other creating a k2, p1 pattern!
I hope this clears things up and best of luck finishing!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello! This was the first sweater I’ve ever knitted and I’m still in love with it ( this was about 7 years ago now!) I want to knit it again but was thinking of knitting in reverse stockinette. Do you think this would be easy to switch? I’m more worried about following the decreases/ raglan sleeves and unsure how to modify. Thank you so much!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you still love this sweater! I think that is a great idea and it should be fairly simple to work the pattern that way! I would recommend working the ribbing and the raglan as written, but reversing the stockinette! You can then work the decreases on the purl side, I recommend checking out our Purl 2 Together (p2tog) + Slip Slip Purl (ssp) tutorial!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions! I am so excited to her how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
What is KO and how do you do it?
Hi Bettye,
Thanks for reaching out! It is actually K0 not KO, this means you will not be knitting any stitches if that appears for the size you are making.
For example in the sleeve section where it says Next Round: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers. This means if you are making the 1st or 2nd size (where the 0 appears) you do not knit any stitches and move directly onto placing the previous 7 (7,) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn. But if you are making the Medium, Large, or X-Large size then you would K (knit) 1, 2, or 3 stitches before placing the 9, 11, or 13 stitches on hold.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you so much for replying. I was really confused. It’s a great pattern and I want to try it.
Hi there,
Thank you for this fun pattern, I’m knitting it up for my 10 year old, and she is really excited about it! I’m at the section ‘begin Raglan Shaping, specifically the decrease round. I’m counting 4 reduction stitches (ssk &k2tog x2) around the diagonal lines at the armpits, so that reduces the round by 4 st (from 8 to 4). However, it says to decrease 8 stitches in total that round. Where do I reduce the other 4? First I thought it was just a typo, but then it continues to say to reduce down to a total of 158 stitches after another 16 repeats. If I reduce by 4 I would end up with 226 st. What am I missing? Help!
Hi Sylvia,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! Since this row has an asterisk it means you will be repeating the instructions more than once around the row! So for this round you should have 4 stitch markers already in place, You will then *P1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before the next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to five stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm (4 stitches decreased on half of the row, the first 2 of 4 stitch markers) You will then repeat this section again from the * around the rest of the row decreases 4 more stitches on the other side of (the other 2 stitch marker) leaving you with 8 total stitches decreased in this round!
I hope this clears things up and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Knitting the pouch first looks better than picking up the stitches later. I knit the full pouch, leaving the remaining stitches on a holder. I cast on the same number of stitches as the pouch, and knit in the round until I could k2tog with the pouch stitches and the “behind the pouch” stitches.
Beautiful sweater and clear instructions, as always!
Hi Katie,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so glad to hear that you enjoyed this pattern and thank you for sharing your tip with all of us!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello !
I have ordered the Koigu’s Kersti for this project, 5 skeins has mentioned. But now that I have received my order, I look at the 5 skeins, they look small, 50g, and I am wondering if it’s enough wool ? (small size).
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you will end up needing more than 5 skeins of the Kersti; I took a look at the pattern and the original yarn that it was designed for (the Swans Island’s Worsted) had about 250yards per skein, so with 5 skeins you would get about 1,250 yards. The Kersti only comes with 114 yards per skein, so to get the same yardage as the Swans Island’s Worsted you would need more like 11 skeins total. I’m sorry for the confusion! I’ll check in with our tech department and see if we can update the pattern to include the yardage requirements for this project, since we are no longer carrying the original yarn!
I hope this helps clear things up, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi Kelsy, thanks for answering back. Unfortunately, the color I ordered a month ago (I live in Montreal, Canada, so shipping takes a while) is not available anymore.
Can I send you back the wool I have and get a refund. Is this possible ?
Hi Kim,
You can certainly return your unused yarn; you can find our complete return policy here. You can also email us at customerservice@purlsoho.com with any additional questions!
All the best,
Kelsey
Hi, I’m using this pattern to add a pouch to a sweater i’ve already finished. Is it still possible to graft the pouch to the sweater or should I just seam it? I’m using the same measurements (74 stitches) and same decreases, the only difference is the sweater is entirely finished.
Hi Hannah,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could certainly follow this technique for a pocket! You can pick up stitches on the sweater, and knit the pocket as written, but since the sweater is already finished I would recommend then sewing the pocket down at the top since you wont have live stitches to graft the pocket!
Please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
It worked out beautifully! I cast off the last row, and then pinned it down to the sweater while I ran some scarp yarn through the stitches I wanted to use for mattress stitch so I’d have a straight line (lol). I picked a row just below where the cast off edge is so when I seamed it together, the cast off edge rolled under slightly and was hidden! It looks amazing! Thank you for your input!
Regards,
Hannah
I am little confuse. While shaping neck. We have to bind stitches only on front side or we have to bind some stitches on back side too.
Hi Vandana,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you are no longer working in the round, but back and forth in rows, you will be binding off, in small increments on the sides as you go, working across!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Thank you Gianna for your reply
Working on Size M, and am at the end of the shaping for Raglan and Crew Neck. I am having trouble getting from 86 stitches to 78 stitches to begin the Neckband. As I read the directions, I count only 8 stitches decreased (k2tog, skp2, k3tog, ssk), leaving me with 80 stitches. I’m also not clear: my single stitch decreases begin and end the row, not after/before 6 stitches (i.e. the row starts at 6 stitches before the marker, so the k2tog begins the row).
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d be happy to help clarify this section of the Sweatshirt Sweater for you! If you’re working size M, I believe that you may be misreading the stitch count for the end of the “CONTINUE RAGLAN AND SHAPE CREW NECK” section of the pattern. You should finish that section with 84 stitches total, not 86 (which is the stitch count for the Small Size). When you reach the “MEDIUM SIZE ONLY” section and work the decrease row, you should only need to decrease by 6 stitches (1 st for k2tog, 2 sts for skp2, 2 sts for k3tog, 1 st for ssk), bringing you from 84 sts to 78.
I’d recommend going back a bit to check that you’ve got the correct stitch count from the beginning of the “CONTINUE RAGLAN AND SHAPE CREW NECK” section, to make sure that everything is lined up as it should be! If you’re still having trouble, you can always reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com for additional assistance!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi, I’m about to start this pattern in Malabrigo worsted, but I’m struggling to nail the correct gauge. I’ve managed to get my stitches down to 20 per 4 inches using size 5 needles, but I think going any lower will make the fabric too tight. By my calculations, with the gauge I have, I’ll end up with a sweater that is about 4 inches bigger than I want it to be. Am I better off dropping down a size to account for this?
I should add that this is the gauge after blocking. I assume that’s what I’m meant to be going for?
Hi Val,
Exactly, the gauge should be measured after blocking your swatch so you’re all set there!
All the best,
Cat
Hi Val,
Thanks so much for writing in! You could definitely go down a sweater size, but just to be sure you’re getting the best possible fit, I would suggest measuring your chest circumference, adding the number of inches of positive ease you’d like, and then multiplying that by the number of stitches per inch you’re getting, which looks to be 5 stitches per inch. Then, I would go through the pattern and see if there’s a cast-on amount that matches the closest to that and you can then follow the directions from this cast on.
I hope this is helpful! Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Kindest regards,
Cat
I love this pattern and would love to knit it to completion. I’m also struggling with your double ** on your SHAPE SLEEVE. I just want to know if your ** denotes two rounds or one? For example your increase round and the immediately following round are one round? Or two rounds? Im knitting the smallest size, the numbers aren’t adding up. Thanks for any help. Im not new to knitting but this ones confusing. Thank you for any help.
Hi Marjorie,
Thanks for reaching out. The asterisks just mean to repeat the instructions from that point (the section in between the asterisks) a certain number of times! So for example, at this point in the pattern, you’ll need to repeat this entire section:
Increase Round: Make 1 left (m1L), knit to next marker, make 1 right (m1R), slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] 2 times, p1. [2 stitches increased]
Next Round: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1.
Repeat last round 4 (5, 4, 2, 1) (1, 1, 1, 1) more time(s).
eight more times! Then you can continue on in the pattern. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
i have arrived at the body. and cast on 240 sts.
* k5 k kfb k8 kfb five times . help here ( k2p1) 2times i get this then i start again k5 ….. to end of round?
why did knit 2 our one?
are we to mark dividing a front & back?
i love this sweater so much and really know it is just my old brain not understanding HELP please
Hi Marie,
Thanks for reaching out. It looks like you’re on the Increase Round for the body! This round is meant to add a few more stitches after the ribbing at the bottom edge of the body, in order to get that classic “sweatshirt” shape. I often find that breaking down complex rounds like this one helps me visualize what’s going on better. Here’s how I would break it down:
Step 1: K5, kfb
Step 2: [k8, kfb] 12 times
Step 3: [k2, p2] 2 times
Step 4: Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the round
You’ll end up with 266 stitches on your needles! And you won’t have to worry about dividing for the front and back yet–you’ll get to that step much later on in the pattern. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
thank you so much for all you help I was just little confused about the k2 p1 at the end of the round but just trust the well written pattern and do not over think
feeling so much better
I really enjoyed knitting this. I had been on a knitting hiatus but mostly knit sweaters so this was a nice way to jump back into knitting.
I have made this sweater twice (!) and both times it is huge on me. My actual bust measurement is 37 inches. How many stitches should I cast on for the body? The sizing instructions are confusing to me. Please help.
Hi Melinda,
Thank you so much for reaching out! Because this sweater is designed to fit with about 3 1/2″ of positive ease, you probably want to knit a size medium for your measurments and cast on 204 stitches for the body. We have a very useful tutorial called Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size that you might find useful!
It is also possible that if your gauge was slightly bigger than the pattern’s, your sweater could end up being inches off from the size you meant to knit! Your stitches should measure 5 1/2 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette on what ever needle size it takes to obtain gauge, so I would recommend casting on about 20 stitches to get a good measurment of the swatch. Here is our tutorial All About Gauge!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi !
Since the Swans Island’s Worsted is no longer available and that the replacement yarn Morning seem’s to take more skeins for smallest size, should I adjust the size I am knitting and knitting the size after ?
Thanks 🙂
Hi Kim!
Thank you for writing in. You will still knit the same size regardless of which yarn you choose, provided you meet gauge with your yarn! There is no need to make a different size when using a different yarn assuming you are able to achieve gauge.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
thank you for allowing me to reach out i gave read over five responses and can nit find my question so help please
i am working the 76 stitches on sleeve and ready to according to pattern in my size (7th#)Repeat last round until piece measures 16 (16¼, 17¼, 17½, 17½) (17½, 17½, 17½, 17¾) inches from cast-on edge, or to desired length to Underarm.
Next Round: Knit 0 (1, 3, 5, 7) (9, 11, 13, 15), place previous 7 (9, 13, 17, 21) (25, 29, 33, 37) stitches onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers.
Place remaining 61 (60, 62, 72, 77) (76, 76, 77, 76) stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.
Make a second Sleeve identical to the first.
knit 11stitches and place the 29 stitches on holder ( total stitch on hold are 40? )
place 76/stitches on holder (this where i am lost what 76) i copied and pasted this from the pattern i knit 11 and now i put those 11 plus 29 more on hold
knit the second sleeve
help i am the 7 number sleeve stitch count 76 length is 17 1/2 inches
please hurry with answer
although we are having unusually warm oct it will soon be into the damp cold wet dull BC coastal rain!
so excited
i hope someone started a knit along on this lovely relaxing it does seem to be a great beginner if the pattern was just a little clearer
thank you
marie landry
Hi Marie,
Thank you for writing in, though we’re so sorry to hear you’ve hit a stopping point in your project! When it comes time to place stiches on hold for the end of your sleeve, you will be knitting 11 stitches into the next round, and then placing the previous 11 stitches that you just knit, plus the last 18 stitches from the previous round on hold, for a total of 29 on-hold underarm stitches. This is because the 29 previous stitches includes the initial 11 knit stitches, but the 29 stitches are not in addition to the 11 knit stitches. Then, there will be 76 stitches left on your needles to put on hold in the following step!
I hope this helps you continue on in your sweatshirt sweater!
All the best,
Margaret
see i knew i was over thinking a big thank you so much you are knitting angels
i have to finish this before i lose all my sight completely.
what a lovely finish sweater in your linen quill
marie landry
You are very welcome, Marie, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi there,
I’m almost at the finish line with this sweater! But confused on how to go forward when it comes to picking up the stitches for the neckband. :-/
1) Do I pick up the stitches with the yarn I’m already working with? Or cut the yarn at the end of “Row 8 and Next Row…” and use a fresh piece like in your tutorials?
2) If picking up each and every stitch, I seem to have way more than just 36 stitches (knitting the size L)—waaaay more! Do you need to pick up the stitch over the bump where each bind off occurred previously? I have closer to 48 stitches to pick up. I’m wondering which stitch I should be picking up first after the most recent row is finished. I’m careful to only pick up the “v” for each column.
3) Per another comment, to clarify: the pick up stitches are all knit, and then once you get to the remaining 90 stitches already knit, that is when the k1, p1, k1 commences? No idea how that results in a k2, p1 rib but I will follow the recipe! 🙂
Question #2 is the most pressing–I don’t know what to do with all of these extras stitches that I’m picking up!
PS–I began this sweater in February after my home was flooded and I was displaced. The project kept me so sane and gave me something to look forward to even as my home was torn apart and renovated! Thank you for the free pattern and can’t wait to cozy up in it this winter!
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for reaching out. I’d be happy to answer your questions about this pattern!
1) Yes, you should still be using the yarn you’re already working with! As a general rule of thumb, patterns will usually directly say “cut yarn” if they want you to cut the yarn, and if they don’t indicate that, then you don’t need to cut the yarn at that point.
2) This is a great question, and the answer is a little involved! After working from the beginning of Continue Raglan and Shape Crew Neck through Row 7, you will have bound off a total of 30 stitches for the center neckline. Then, you will work a total of 12 more rows during all the repeats of Rows 8, 9, and Next Row. This will add a height of 12 rows on either side of the bound-off stitches. You’re right that this does total to more than 36 stitches, but that’s intentional, since it tightens up the fit of the neckline a bit! The best way to make sure that you pick up the stitches evenly (not necessarily in every single “v”) is to place 4 stitch markers and even distance away along the neckline, and pick up exactly 9 stitches in between each one.
3) You’re right–all the stitches are picked up knitwise, and then you will begin the ribbing pattern for the remaining 90 stitches! The instructions *k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round do indeed create 2 x 1 ribbing though. You can see that by writing out the pattern repeat (k1, p1, k1) next to itself, like so: k1, p1, k1, k1, p1, k1, k1, p1, k1. Since there are two k1’s happening next to each other, that condenses into k1, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k1 (and the first and final k1’s create a k2 across the end-of-round).
I hope this helps clear things up, but please let me know if you’re still running into trouble!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili!! I got the pick up to work a-okay. It was bizarre not to pick up every single stitch, but it worked. In the photos and in my sweater currently, I do find that there is a slight “dip” in the part where the right-side-wrong-side knitting began in the pattern. So I picked up tightly on both sides of that to hide that little dip as well.
Thank you again for your remote help, it really means a lot!
I’ve almost completed this pattern (it was easy to follow, thank you!) but I’m struggling to finish the neck line. I’ve finished binding off the front and I can’t figure out how to pick up the stitches from the right side. I’m not changing my needle size so do I need another set of needles to start that section? If so, how do I proceed?
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! In the NECKBAND section, you will actually begin picking up stitches from the left side of the neckline, since that’s where your working yarn is. You can see this positioning in the photo included in this section! Just make sure your working yarn is in the same spot as shown in the photo, and then you can pick up and knit the stitches across the entire neckline. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for responding so quickly! Where I’m confused is that it says “ Continuing with right side facing you and now using smaller 16-inch circular needles, pm (new end of round), pick up and knit 27 (32, 30, 36, 40) (49, 56, 58, 62) stitches evenly along front Neckline;” implying that you would start on the right side by picking up the bind off section. Am i mistaken?
Hi Melissa,
The “right side” in this context refers to the right side of the knit fabric, not the right side of the sweater when worn! This is referring to the outside of the sweater (right side), as opposed to the inside of the sweater (wrong side).
The reason we specify “with right side facing” at this point is because you’re going back to knitting in the round after knitting flat for a time. When you knit flat, you’re switching back and forth between right side facing and wrong side facing, but when you get back to knitting in the round, you need to make sure the right side is facing you so that your knit stitches appear on the correct side of the sweater.
Let me know if this makes more sense!
All the best,
Lili
I just finished knitting this sweatshirt sweater in large and it fits beautifully but I wish the neck were a bit tighter/smaller. I plan to knit it again in another color and would like advice on how to adjust the neck. The pattern is great…very clear instructions. Thank you!
Hi Sharlene,
Thanks for reaching out! To make the neckline smaller, I’d recommend knitting the NECKBAND section on smaller needles. This will tighten up the stitches themselves, but if you want and even more drastic change to the size, you can pick up fewer stitches around the neckline edge and knit the neckband with fewer stitches overall.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for the advice. I will try fewer stitches on this next one and go down another size on the needles.