Sweatshirt Sweater
I grew up wearing a school uniform, which, for me, turns out to be a hard habit to kick. Some people seem to totally reject their childhoods of forced attire, opting for recklessly eclectic wardrobes. But I can’t fight it; I’m a uniform kid, through and through.
I am sure you’ll be relieved to read I am no longer sporting ill-fitting plaid jumpers, but there is rarely a day that goes by that I’m not in my own personal uniform. Lately, it’s been dark-wash Levi’s paired with some form of a baseball T or an athletic-gray sweatshirt. Naturally, I need handknit interpretations of these basics! I accomplished the first this past autumn when I stitched up the Everyday Linen Raglan. And now, I’m happy to add a thicker, cozier, woolier version to my collection… the Sweatshirt Sweater!
The Sweatshirt Sweater is my new go-to garb, spacious enough for under-layers and soft enough to go without. It’s knit in Swans Island 100% organic merino, a beautiful light worsted yarn that evokes a natural refinement. I’ll be in this uniform for these last snowy days of March, all the way through the crisp nights of spring!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Spoiler alert: as the seasons change, so does my uniform, so keep your eye out for some more knit basics in the months to come! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoSweatshirtSweater. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 9, 9) skeins of Swans Island’s Worsted, 100% organic merino wool. Each skein of this light worsted-weight yarn is 250 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1095 (1250, 1375, 1495, 1620) (1750, 1940, 2110, 2265) yards required. We used the color Seasmoke.
You’ll also need…
- A set of US 6 (4 mm) double pointed needles
- US 6, 16-inch circular needles
- US 6, 24-inch or 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 7 (4.5 mm) double pointed needles
- US 7, 24- or 32-inch circular needles
- Spare US 7, 16-inch or longer circular needles (optional, needed only if making Pouch)
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- A removable stitch marker
NOTE: Looking to knit your sleeves in double-time? Swap the double pointed needles for 32-inch or longer circular needles, and check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Shop our wonderful collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
22 stitches and 28 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette using larger needles
Sizes
33¾ (37½, 41, 44¾, 48¼) (52, 55¾, 59¼, 63)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46) (48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) with 4-6 inches of ease.
- Finished Chest Circumference: 33¾ (37½, 41, 44¾, 48¼) (52, 55¾, 59¼, 63) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 14 (13¾, 13½, 13¾, 13¾) (14, 14¼, 14¾, 15) inches, with directions to adjust
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Underarm: 8½ (9¼, 9¾, 9¾, 10) (10, 10¼, 10¼, 10½) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 16 (16¼, 17¼, 17½, 17½) (17½, 17½, 17½, 17¾) inches, with direction to adjust
Sample: The sweater shown here is size 37½, worn with 3½ inches of ease.
NOTE: We have updated this pattern to include more sizes. If, for some reason, you would like the original pattern, please contact customerservice@purlsoho.com, and we’ll send you the PDF!
Notes
SK2P (SLIP 1, K2TOG, PSSO)
Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch and off the needle. [2 stitches decreased]
K3TOG (KNIT 3 TOGETHER)
Insert right needle into next three stitches knitwise, knit all three stitches together as if they were one stitch. [2 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Sleeves
Work Cuff
With smaller double pointed needles, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 42 (45, 45, 45, 48) (51, 51, 54, 57) stitches.
Place unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 3 inches from cast-on edge.
Shape Sleeve
Change to larger double pointed needles.
Next Round: K35 (38, 38, 38, 41) (44, 44, 47, 50), place marker (pm), [p1, k2] 2 times, p1.
**Increase Round: Make 1 left (m1L), knit to next marker, make 1 right (m1R), slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] 2 times, p1. [2 stitches increased]
Next Round: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1.
Repeat last round 4 (5, 4, 2, 1) (1, 1, 1, 1) more time(s).
Repeat from ** 8 (9, 12, 18, 15) (15, 20, 22, 24) more times. [60 (65, 71, 83, 80) (83, 93, 100, 107) stitches]
***Repeat Increase Round. [2 stitches increased]
Next Round: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1.
Repeat last round 6 (7, 6, 4, 3) (3, 3, 3, 3) more times.
Repeat from *** 2 (0, 0, 1, 7) (7, 4, 3, 1) more time(s). [66 (67, 73, 87, 96) (99, 103, 108, 111) stitches]
Repeat Increase Round. [68 (69, 75, 89, 98) (101, 105, 110, 113) stitches]
Next Round: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1.
Repeat last round until piece measures 16 (16¼, 17¼, 17½, 17½) (17½, 17½, 17½, 17¾) inches from cast-on edge, or to desired length to Underarm.
Next Round: Knit 0 (1, 3, 5, 7) (9, 11, 13, 15), place previous 7 (9, 13, 17, 21) (25, 29, 33, 37) stitches onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers.
Place remaining 61 (60, 62, 72, 77) (76, 76, 77, 76) stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.
Make a second Sleeve identical to the first.
Body
Work Bottom Ribbing
With smaller 24- or 32-inch circular needles, use a Long Tail Cast On to cast on 168 (186, 204, 222, 240) (258, 276, 294, 312) stitches.
Place unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 2¼ (2¼, 2¼, 2½, 2½) (2½, 2½, 2½, 2½) inches from cast-on edge.
Begin Main Body
Increase Round: *K5, knit 1 in front and back (kfb), [k8, kfb] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) (13, 14, 15, 16) times, [k2, p1] 2 times, repeat from * to end of round. [186 (206, 226, 246, 266) (286, 306, 326, 346) stitches]
Next Round: With larger 24- or 32-inch circular needles, *k86 (96, 106, 116, 126) (136, 146, 156, 166), pm, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Next Round: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until piece measures 3¼ (3¼, 3¼, 3½, 3½) (3½, 3½, 3½, 3½) inches from cast-on edge.
Make Pouch (Optional)
NOTE: If you are not making a Pouch, skip to Continue Body section, below.
MARK FOR POUCH + WORK BODY
Set-Up Round: K7 (11, 15, 19, 23) (27, 31, 35, 39), mark 7th (11th, 15th, 19th, 23th) (27th, 31th, 35th, 39th) stitch with removable stitch marker, *knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Work in established pattern until piece measures 10½ (11, 11¼, 11½, 11¾) (11¾, 12¼, 12¼, 12¼) inches from cast-on edge.
Leave working yarn attached to Body.
With spare larger circular needles, starting with (and including) marked stitch, slip needle under right leg of next 74 (76, 78, 80, 82) (84, 86, 88, 90) stitches.
Remove removable marker.
WORK POUCH
With right side facing you, join yarn to Pouch stitches on spare needles and work back and forth in rows over just these 74 (76, 78, 80, 82) (84, 86, 88, 90) stitches…
Row 1 (right side): K1, p1, [k2, p1] 2 times, knit to last 8 stitches, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): P1, k1, [p2, k1] 2 times, purl to last 8 stitches, [k1, p2] 2 times, k1, p1.
Row 3 (Decrease Row): K1, p1, [k2, p1] 2 times, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to last 10 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog), [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 4-7: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 two times. [4 stitches decreased]
Row 8: Repeat Row 2.
Row 9: Repeat Row 1.
Row 10: Repeat Row 2.
Repeat Rows 3–10 four (4, 5, 5, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5) more times. [44 (46, 42, 44, 46) (48, 50, 52, 54) stitches remain]
Repeat Row 3 then Row 2 four (4, 3, 3, 4) (4, 4, 6, 6) more time(s). [36 (38, 36, 38, 38) (40, 42, 40, 42) stitches remain]
Repeat Row 3 then Rows 8-10 zero (1, 0, 0, 0) (0, 1, 0, 0) more time(s). [36 (36, 36, 38, 38) (40, 40, 40, 42) stitches remain]
Cut yarn, leaving stitches on needles.
GRAFT POUCH TO BODY
Returning to Body and continuing with working yarn, k25 (30, 35, 39, 44) (48, 53, 58, 62); holding Pouch and Body needles parallel to each other with Pouch in front, *k1 from Pouch together with one from Body, repeat from * until all Pouch stitches have been knit; continuing in the round with Body stitches, **knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, repeat from ** to end of round.
Continue Body
Work in established pattern until Body measures 14 (14, 13½, 13½, 13¼) (13½, 14, 14½, 14½) inches from cast-on edge or desired length to Underarms.
Divide Front + Back
Dividing Round: [Knit to next marker, remove marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, k 0 (1, 3, 5, 7) (9, 11, 13, 15), place previous 7 (9, 13, 17, 21) (25, 29, 33, 37) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Underarm] 2 times. [172 (188, 200, 212, 224) (236, 248, 260, 272) total stitches remain: 86 (94, 100, 106, 112) (118, 124, 130, 136) stitches each for Front and Back]
Join Body + Sleeves
NOTE: For help with this step, please visit our Joining Sleeves To Body tutorial.
Joining Round: [Knit to next set of on-hold stitches, pm, holding Sleeve’s on-hold Underarm stitches parallel to Body’s on-hold Underarm stitches, knit Sleeve stitches, pm] 2 times, using unique marker for last marker (new end of the round). [294 (308, 324, 356, 378) (388, 400, 414, 424) total stitches: 86 (94, 100, 106, 112) (118, 124, 130, 136) stitches each for Front and Back; 61 (60, 62, 72, 77) (76, 76, 77, 76) stitches for each Sleeve]
Yoke
Begin Raglan Shaping
Round 1: *P1, k2, p1, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to three stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 two more times.
Decrease Round: *P1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end of round. [8 stitches decreased]
Repeat Round 1.
Repeat last two rounds 15 (17, 19, 18, 19) (19, 18, 17, 18) more times, then repeat Decrease Round 1 more time. [158 (156, 156, 196, 210) (220, 240, 262, 264) total stitches remain: 52 (56, 58, 66, 70) (76, 84, 92, 96) stitches each for Front and Back; 27 (22, 20, 32, 35) (34, 36, 39, 36) stitches for each Sleeve]
Continue Raglan + Shape Neckline
NOTE: In this section you will be working back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
SIZES 33¾, 37½, 41, 44¾, AND 48¼ ONLY
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k22 (24, 25, 29, 31) (-, -, -, -), turn work so wrong side is facing you. (This is now the end of the row, and the end-of-round marker is just a regular marker.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) (-, -, -, -) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [152 (150, 149, 188, 202) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
Row 3 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8) (-, -, -, -) stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [138 (136, 134, 172, 186) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
Row 4: Bind off 3 (3, 3, 3, 4) (-, -, -, -) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [135 (133, 131, 169, 182) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
Row 5 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 (3, 3, 3, 4) (-, -, -, -) stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [124 (122, 120, 158, 170) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
Row 6: Bind off 2 (2, 2, 2, 3) (-, -, -, -) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [122 (120, 118, 156, 167) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
Row 7 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 (2, 2, 2, 3) (-, -, -, -) stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [112 (110, 108, 146, 156) (-, -, -, -) stitches remain]
SIZE 33¾ ONLY
Row 8: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Row 9 (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [10 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 8 and 9 two more times. [82 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Fronts; 40 stitches for Back; 15 stitches for each Sleeve]
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [74 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 38 stitches for Back; 13 stitches for each Sleeve]
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [66 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 34 stitches for Back; 11 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 37½ ONLY
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 two more times. [86 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 46 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [80 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 44 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [74 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 40 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [70 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 36 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 41 ONLY
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 once more. [96 total stitches remain: 11 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 50 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [94 stitches remain]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [88 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 48 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [82 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 46 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [76 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 42 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [72 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 38 stitches for Back; 12 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 44¾ ONLY
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 two more times. [122 total stitches remain: 11 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 56 stitches for Back; 22 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [120 stitches remain]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [108 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 52 stitches for Back; 20 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [96 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 48 stitches for Back; 18 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [86 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 44 stitches for Back; 16 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [78 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 40 stitches for Back; 14 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 48¼ ONLY
Row 8: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [154 stitches remain]
Row 9 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [144 stitches remain: 14 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 62 stitches for Back; 27 stitches for each Sleeve]
Row 10: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 11 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 10 and 11 one more time. [116 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 54 stitches for Back; 23 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [104 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 50 stitches for Back; 21 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [94 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 46 stitches for Back; 19 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [86 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 42 stitches for Back; 17 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 52 ONLY
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k34, turn work so wrong side is facing you. (This is now the end of the row, and the end-of-round marker is just a regular marker.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 9 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [211 stitches remain]
Row 3 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 9 stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [194 stitches remain]
Row 4: Bind off 4 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [190 stitches remain]
Row 5 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 4 stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [178 stitches remain]
Row 6: Bind off 3 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [175 stitches remain]
Row 7 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [162 stitches remain]
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 one more time. [146 total stitches remain: 15 stitches each for Right and Left Fronts; 64 stitches for Back, 26 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rows 1 more time. [118 total stitches remain: 9 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 56 stitches for Back; 22 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [116 stitches remain]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 stitches knitwise, k1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1, ssk. [104 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 52 stitches for Back; 20 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [94 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 48 stitches for Back; 18 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [86 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 44 stitches for Back; 16 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 55¾ ONLY
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k38, turn work so wrong side is facing you. (This is now the end of the row, and the end-of-round marker is just a regular marker.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 10 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [230 stitches remain]
Row 3 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 10 stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] 2 times, knit to end of row. [212 stitches remain]
Row 4: Bind off 4 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [208 stitches remain]
Row 5 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 4 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [194 stitches remain]
Row 6: Bind off 3 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [3 stitches decreased]
Row 7 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [13 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 two more times. [146 total stitches remain: 14 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 66 stitches for Back; 26 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rows 1 more time. [118 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 58 stitches for Back; 22 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [106 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 54 stitches for Back; 20 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [96 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 50 stitches for Back; 18 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [88 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 46 stitches for Back; 16 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 59¼ ONLY
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k42, turn work so wrong side is facing you. (This is now the end of the row, and the end-of-round marker is just a regular marker.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 10 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [252 stitches remain]
Row 3 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 10 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [232 stitches remain]
Row 4: Bind off 5 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [227 stitches remain]
Row 5 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 5 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [212 stitches remain]
Row 6: Bind off 3 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [3 stitches decreased]
Row 7 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [13 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 two more times. [164 total stitches remain: 17 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 72 stitches for Back; 29 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rows 2 more times. [122 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 60 stitches for Back; 23 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [110 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 56 stitches for Back; 21 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [100 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 52 stitches for Back; 19 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [92 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 48 stitches for Back; 17 stitches for each Sleeve]
SIZE 63 ONLY
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k44, turn work so wrong side is facing you. (This is now the end of the row, and the end-of-round marker is just a regular marker.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 12 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [252 stitches remain]
Row 3 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 12 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see Notes), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see Notes), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [230 stitches remain]
Row 4: Bind off 5 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [225 stitches remain]
Row 5 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 5 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [210 stitches remain]
Row 6: Bind off 3 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [3 stitches decreased]
Row 7 (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 3 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [13 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 two more times. [162 total stitches remain: 17 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 76 stitches for Back; 26 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: Bind off 2 stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Bind off 2 stitches knitwise, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. [12 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rows 2 more times. [120 total stitches remain: 8 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 64 stitches for Back; 20 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): Ssk, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, k2tog. [108 total stitches remain: 6 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 60 stitches for Back; 18 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk. [98 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 56 stitches for Back; 16 stitches for each Sleeve]
Next Row: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] 2 times, purl to end of row.
Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2, knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [94 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 52 stitches for Back; 16 stitches for each Sleeve]
Neckband
NOTE: In this section, you will again be working in the round and no longer back and forth in rows.
Pick-Up Round: Continuing with right side facing you and now using smaller 16-inch circular needles, pm (new end of round), pick up and knit 27 (32, 30, 36, 40) (49, 56, 58, 62) stitches evenly along front Neckline; continuing around remaining live stitches, *k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round. [93 (102, 102, 114, 126) (135, 144, 150, 156) stitches]
Next Round: *K1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until Neckband measures 1¼ (1¼, 1¼, 1¼, 1¼) (1½, 1½, 1½, 1½) inches.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Finishing
Graft Underarms
Slip one pair of Underarm stitches from stitch holders to two double pointed needles. Holding needles parallel to each other, use Kitchener Stitch to graft Underarm closed.
Repeat for second Underarm.
Weave In + Block
Weave in the ends, sewing up any holes at Underarms, if necessary, then block as desired, and you are finished!
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I love this design…are the sizes male or female?
Espectacular Muchas gracias por el patrón.
This sweater is so nice! I love it and all of your designs! I am putting this on the top of my list 🙂
Hi Jen-
The sizes are female. The finished measurements are listed below the sizes which would help if you were trying to make it for a man.
Thank you!
Molly
What a beautiful pattern! I love how simple it is. Are there any cheaper yarn alternatives you sell that would work for this pattern?
Hi Catherine-
We would recommend Cascade 220 as a very affordable alternative. It even comes in a great heather gray color!
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/649-Cascade-Yarns-Cascade-220
Thank you for your question!
Molly
So pretty and cozy!
Hello!
I live in Florida and I absolutly love this sweater! The only problem is that the weather here is much warmer and I'm afraid that the yarn you used to make the sweater would be too hot. What yarns would you recommend that I substite to make a warm, yet light sweater? Thank you for your help!
Hi Elizabeth,
Blue Sky makes a worsted weight cotton that might be nice. It is a little bit thicker so be sure to swatch. It might be dense and tight at 5.5 stitches to the inch at first but should relax after blocking. Also, there is Blue Sky's Skinny Cotton which is a teeny bit thinner.(links posted below).
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/721-Blue-Sky-Worsted-Cotton
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/3823-Blue-Sky-Skinny-Cotton
Spud and Chloe make a wool/cotton blend which might work nicely… https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/5886-Spud-Chloe-Sweater
Let me know if you have any other question!
Laura
Hi, Beautiful, classy design! Just wanted to point out that the color Seasmoke is actually a blend of merino and alpaca. So is their oatmeal color, but the rest of the colors are 100% merino.
I love this sweater! So clean yet cozy. Thanks for sharing it.
Hi,
Love this sweater! I've made a couple of sweaters with similar construction, and the underarms never look as good as the ones in your photo — there are always small gaps at either side of the stitches to be grafted. Is there a way to eliminate this (or at least minimize it), and how do I fix the gaps to get a clean, neat finish?
thanks,
Karen
Thank you so much! I think that I will use Blue Sky's Skinny Cotton. If I use this yarn, will I have to change the needle sizes?
Hi Elizabeth,
It depends on how you knit (on the tight side or on the loose side). I recommend knitting a few 4 inch by 4 inch swatches on a few different needles to see which needle gives you the correct gauge. My hunch though, if you go down in needle size for the Skinny Cotton, your gauge will be off.
Laura
Hi Karen.
I know the exact gaps you are talking about. They can definitely get messy looking if you aren't careful. When I go to graft the underarm stitches together using kitchner stitch, I purposefully leave a longer-than-usual tail so that I will have some yarn to work with after grafting. I don't just weave in the tail, but rather use it to close up those gaps on either side. I find that weaving the tail in using duplicate stitch (or as close to duplicate stitch as possible) across the hole closes it up in the least messy way.
Here is a link to a tutorial that talks about weaving in ends and includes instructions for using duplicate stitch: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/weaving-in-ends-tutorial/
Let us know how it goes or if you have any other questions.
Laura
I am obsessed with this! Ordering the materials this week to make. I am interested in two things…do you have suggestions to add the small “V” at the neckline like in the Everyday Linen Pullover. Also, for my uniform (hoodies, jeans, and flip-flops), this must have a hood…any suggestions for adding one? THANK YOU!
JRS,
You are so kind. Thank you for the positive feedback. Your comment made me laugh actually. You have no idea how many times I thought to add a hood and then I'd take it away, add, eliminate, back and forth. My sketch book is covered. If you wanted to add one… here are some very quick crude tips… I would pick up along the neckline as if you were going to do the ribbing. I would work back and forth for several inches (measure vertically from your shoulder to the top of your head), decreasing along the front edge (so the hood doesn't cover your face. I would do the same ribbed edge as I did at the pocket. You can check out the Petite Popover to see how I seamed that hood: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/petite-popover/
As for the V detail. Again here are some crude tips… About 10 to 14 rows before you are going to start the shaping for the neck, find the center stitch on the front, mark it. Work as usual, but when you get to that marked stitch, purl rather than knit. The next round, purl the stitch before the marked stitch, the marked stitch and the one after it (3 stitches), on the following round, purl 5 stitches, again centered on that marked stitch.
I am hoping to do a similar sweater come fall, but with a hood and some other fun detailing. Stay tuned!
Thanks again for writing in and let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
JRS,
You are so kind. Thank you for the positive feedback. Your comment made me laugh actually. You have no idea how many times I thought to add a hood and then I'd take it away, add, eliminate, back and forth. My sketch book is covered. If you wanted to add one… here are some very quick crude tips… I would pick up along the neckline as if you were going to do the ribbed crew neck, but start at the center of the front. I would work back and forth in stockinette for several inches (measure vertically from your shoulder to the top of your head), decreasing along the front edge (so the hood doesn't cover your face. I would do the same ribbed edge as I did at the pocket, you can refer to that section for decreasing as well. And you can check out the Petite Popover to see how I seamed that hood: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/petite-popover/
As for the V detail. Again here are some crude tips… About 10 to 14 rows before you are going to start the shaping for the neck, find the center stitch on the front, mark it. Work as usual, but when you get to that marked stitch, purl rather than knit. The next round, purl the stitch before the marked stitch, the marked stitch and the one after it (3 stitches), on the following round, purl 5 stitches, again centered on that marked stitch. Continue like this, increasing the number you purl by 2 each round.
I am hoping to do a similar sweater come fall, but with a hood and some other fun detailing. Stay tuned!
Thanks again for writing in and let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi, Laura, Thank for the great design. I usually don't comment, just ooh and ahh; but today, I was laughing out loud while reading your blog. I suspect we have similar childhood. I went to 12 years of Catholic school wearing plaids and a white blouse. And I am sure I beat you, wearing 5 more years of a Coast Guard uniform.
I totally understand still wearing some semblence of a uniform. I have poor concept of accessories; and hate shopping. I can never understand when my friends talk about shopping All day long. There too many other things to do, then walk around a store. OOPs, when I do comment I am long-winded. Love your webstie and all the other designers, too.
Thank you, again.
Hi Laura,
Just saw this today and am excited to try it! Just wondering about the sizing. The hip size isn't really the waist is it? I feel really dumb about this and probably I'm wrong. What would you suggest for someone who has 37 bust and 37 hips? I don't want it too tight in the bust, but want it to fit over my hips!
Love, love, love the sweatshirt sweater. Although I am not a knitter, can this be purchased? I would love to have several.
Thank you. 🙂
Hi Karen-
We don't sell any of our finished projects but if you'd like to get someone to knit one for you please give our shop a call at 212-420-8796. They might be able to put you in touch with a custom knitter.
Thank you!
Molly
Hi Michelle,
Great question. The bottom of the sweater falls above the hip, but below the waist (this is adjustable too of course). It's a hard area to name. The bottom is a rib, which will have some give, very forgiving / flexible. If you have a 37 inch bust, then I would make the Medium size. I have a 34+ inch bust and made the Small, so there was about 3 inches of ease which felt right/comfortable for this cut of a piece.
Please let me know if you have any other questions!
Laura
Hi Laura,
Thank you so so SO much for the assistance, much appreciated. I ended up using a Cascade Baby Alpaca I found yesterday in a Heather Purple color, it is so lovely. I started last night and contemplated calling in sick today to stay at home and knit.
Laura:
Makes a nice “dressy”, more flattering sweatshirt look. (I am in a sweatshirt every day when not in work.) In lieu of the wool, would Brown Sheep cotton fleece work? (Of course I don't know if you even sell that.) Thank you for your design.
Hi Jean,
That's exactly how I see this piece… a dressier sweatshirt. Glad you like it.
I have never worked with Brown Sheep's Cotton Fleece before. The stats I found online say it's 5 stitches = 1 inch on a US #6. I think as long as you swatch and figure out the right needles for your personal tension so that you hit gauge… It'll be great!
Luck with the sweater. Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
I spin, and I have a fleece of Rambouillet that is natural white, and wonderful to wear. I haven't done this in a long, long time but I am in love with this sweater. Wonder if 1 or 2 ply would be better. It gets chilly here but I love sweaters and I love kangaroo pockets. Perfect for me and my jeans.
If you ever want to try Rambouillet, don't be afraid. It's very soft, usually full of lanolin, and a pleasure to wear. The fibers are long staple and it makes a beautiful yarn.
Thanks for the great tutorial! Every time you think you've researched every possibility out there, there's always a few more. I'll definitely try duplicate stitch next time to close up those pesky kitchener gaps.
Karen
Wow! You really did it for me. I'm knitting the Sweatshirt sweater right now. What an easy pattern to read and follow. It will be a gift for my daughter and then I'll knit one for myself. Thank you so much, you made my day.
Jo.in Deux-Montagnes QC
I love this sweater pattern too but I need some help with the increase round for the body. i have already completed the sleeves without any snag. I am having trouble
Understanding the increase directions. Do younmean knit 5 normally and then knit 1 fb and then knit eight normally and then 1 fb a multiple of times?
Thanks for any clarification.
Jeanne,
Yes. You are completely correct.
Thank you. It should read k1fb where it says kfb.
K5, k1fb, [k8, k1fb]….
Thank you so much for writing in.
Laura
This pattern looks great! I've read it through a few times but am still trying to understand the raglan sleeve part. I'm making size XS and it seems like you bind off 22 stitches over 8 rows on the front of the sweater. Then when you start the neckband, it says to pick up 30 st. Is that just to keep the neckband looking neat without any gaps? This is the first time I'm knitting raglan sleeves. Any particular reason why you bind off st and work back and forth? It is easier than continuing to work in the round and decreasing?
What a lovely pattern. The pocket really “makes” it. I think I see a big future for this design in my house. Have you considered the option of adding a hood?
This is a wonderful pattern – thank you! It was a simple, straightforward knit, and I love the end result. The Swan's Island Worsted really makes the project – it's incredibly soft! I blogged the pattern and FO photos here: http://blueberryhillcrafting.com/2013/04/08/swans-island-sweatshirt/
Hi Andrea-
Thank you so much for sharing you photos! Your sweater turned out great!
Best-
Molly
Hi KellyE.
I am glad you like the looks of the sweater. To address your questions…
– I begin working in the round, because this is a crew neck and it requites more shaping in the front than just the raglan decreases create alone.
– You can knit raglans in the round all the way to the top. It is definitely an option, structurally speaking.
– So the stitches you pick up for the neck are to make sure it's a nice smooth curved crewneck shape. Typically you pick up 1 stitch for ever bound off stitch and 3 stitches for every slanted or vertical stitch.
I hope this answers anything. PLEASE keep me posted if any other questions come up. Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I just love this! I have already made the sleeves and they fit fine, but for the body I'm not sure size wise. I measure between a sm. and medium and not sure how to adjust for what's needed. Any suggestions?
Dear Laura,
I love this pattern very much! I am using Berroco's Comfort Heather colors in Cranberry and Thimbleberry, with the darker color for the sleeves and the kangaroo pouch. I am on the decrease raglan rows right now, and about to begin the neckline shaping, probably in a day or two. This has been a great project to work on, although I have one question. Your pattern indicates to K1, p1 around for the neckline, but in your pictures (for the neckline) and in the instructions you say to K2, P1 for the cuffs of the sleeves and for the beginning of the body. Do you mean that the neckline should also be K2 and P1 around? Thanks so much for the wonderful pattern!
(P.S. I have also knitted your Little Cable Knee High Socks and love love LOVE those!! I want to knit your Herringbone Cowl someday.)
Kelyn
Hi Kelyn,
I am so glad yo have been enjoying this project.
The neckline says to *k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end.
So essentially, you are knitting 2 next to one another. It is set up this way so that the ribs of the raglan detail transitions smoothly into the ribs of the neckline.
Please let me know if you have any other questions at all. I love the sounds of the color work you are doing on the sleeves and pouch. Nice modification!
Laura
(The Herringone Cowl is AMAZING. Whitney is quite inspiring, isn't she?!)
Hi Andrea,
The bust circumference provided is the finished dimension of the sweater. I think this style sweater is best with a 2+ inch ease. So, I would probably go up to the medium.
I am a little confused though. You already made the sleeves? The stitch count for the sleeves comes into play when you knit it onto the body of the sweater. Which size sleeve did you make?
If you made one size sleeve and are making a different size body, be careful when it comes to the final rounds of raglan shaping because you'll want the raglan ribbing to seamlessly transition into the ribbing in the neck. Does that make sense?
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
I think there's an error for the medium size's count when decreasing. Under "Con't Raglan and Shape Crew Neck", it lists the sleeve count for Rows 8 and 9 as 15 (16, **14**, 19, 19) for each sleeve. But then for the last part of this section it lists the sleeves as having **17 stitches**. Will you please clarify this? I'm guessing maybe the sleeves should have decreased down only to 18 stitches in Row 9 repeats.
I also see that it says the final stitch count for size medium is 78 stitches: 10 for right and left front, 40 for back, 17 for each sleeve. By my count, this is 94 stitches. So should I only pick up 20 stitches along my cast-off row to make the called for 114, or should I still cast on the 36 stitches the pattern calls for, giving me a final number of 130?
Hi Shea,
The "17" is a typo. I will fix it now! There are 14 stitches at each sleeve.
78 stitches total (10 at the front, 14 at each sleeve and 40 at the back)
You'll pick up 36 at the neckband making 114.
Thank you so much for writing in!
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
Hi Shea,
The "17" is a typo. I will fix it now! There are 14 stitches at each sleeve.
78 stitches total (10 at the front, 14 at each sleeve and 40 at the back)
You'll pick up 36 at the neckband making 114.
Thank you so much for writing in!
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
Hi Andrea,
I am currently working on the sweater but having some difficulty understanding some of the directions when working on the body of the sweater. You say "*Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round." Does this mean to knit all the way until the beginning marker, or should I (p1 k1) two times p1 before I reach the beginning marker?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Mikhala,
This is Laura, I knit this project and will address your question.
A few lines of pattern before the one you are asking about it tells you to place markers. There is a marker after k86 (96, 106, 116, 126) stitches and then another marker which ends up being 7 stitches before the beginning of round marker. So…
*Knit to next marker, [p1,k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round means….
Knit to the marker, slip it, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2 then purl 1 more, then you start at the beginning again meaning… Knit to the marker, slip it, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2 then purl 1 more. At this point you will be at the beginning of the round.
Does this help at all?
Please let me know if you have any other questions regarding this pattern.
Thanks,
Laura.
Hello,
This is my first time ever knitting a sweater, and so far, so good!
I do have a question though (it may be a stupid one): In the "begin the body" section , it says "With the smaller circular needle…" Is this the #6 16-inch needle? And then a few lines down it says "With the larger, 32-inch needle…" is this size #6? or #7? I just want to be sure to use the right ones!
And if it's the #7 32-inch, what is the #6 24-32" for? (I'm relatively new at this, so I keep having to buy new needles for all my projects.)
Thank you for a great pattern! I'm excited to keep going.
Hi Laura,
Congrats on knitting your first sweater!!!
The smaller, 24- or 32-inch needle is the #6.
The larger 32-inch needle is the #7.
That was a great question. Definitely a little confusing. Thanks for writing in.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
Hi! I was wondering, what type of cast on you would recommend for giving this sweater a clean, stretchy edge? Thanks!
Hi Elizabeth.
I used a long tail cast on.
I love the long tail cast on. It is my go-to!
If you are worried about it being tight, cast on with a needle one size up from the recommended size.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for asking.
Laura
Hello! I was wondering, do you cut the yarn after you have finished a sleeve? Thank you!
Hi Elizabeth,
Yes, you sure do.
Laura
First of all thank you for this great pattern! It will be my first adult sized sweater and I have decided to knit it with Malabrigo Rios in the "Marte" colourway.
I do have a question about the sizing. In one of the post replies you said, you recommend to knit this with 2+ inches of ease. Is ease calculated into the sizes? I.e. will the Medium size fit a 41" bust including ease, making it approx 43" wide? Or should I go up a size, if my bust is right on the spot of the measument given for the size?
And, also for the difficult hip measurement: My hip circumfence (measured where I would like the sweater to end, about 2" below my trouser band) is roughly the same as my bust circumfence, or rather a touch larger. The measurements given here assume a smaller circumfence. Will this work for me anyway? Or will the body band be awfully tight in comparison? If so, can you suggest a way to avoid that?
Thank you in advance for your replies!
Hi Laura,
The dimensions listed above are the finished measurements of the sweater. You will have to take your bust size and add ease to see what size sweater you'd like to make.
As for the hips… The rib has quite a bit of give. I think you will be fine. You can knit the ribbed portion on a larger size needle than recommended, that will help!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hello! I was wondering, how high does the pouch go on the small size? If I wanted to shorten it, how would I do that? Thank you for all your help!
Hi Elizabeth,
The pocket on the small size (if you are getting 7 rows to the inch) is approximately 5 3/4 inches tall.
Shortening it is a little more involved than I can explain in this comment box. If you shorten it, it means you are eliminating some decrease rows, which just means you will have to figure out where to center the pocket when you get to the next portion of the pattern where you graft it to the sweater.
Does that help at all?
Please let me know if you have any other questions regarding this or other portions of the pattern.
Thanks,
Laura
Hi Laura,
Love love love your designs and have decided to make this sweater as my very first sweater project. I was just wondering if you would consider this a good first sweater to knit and also, I live in New Zealand so don't get the wonderful yarn that you have in the States. What types of yarn would you recommend as a good substitute i.e. DK super merino etc.
Can't wait to get started on this!
Many thanks
Elaine
Hi Elaine,
Thank you for the compliments. Glad you like the sweater. This is not a difficult pattern, but it isn't the most beginner project either. I say go for it, but read ahead and carefully and of course we are always here to answer any questions you have..
As for the yarn. I used a worsted merino that is on the thinner side of worsted. A heavy DK would work, but I think a worsted (or 10 ply) would be best.
Laura
Its a really nice pattern. Thank you for it.
I’ve got a question: For the neckline the instruction says 1 k, 1p,1k and so on, but on the photo it seems to be alternating 2k 1p, as in the cuffs and bottom ribing. Right?
Thank you very much for your help.
Best wishes Ane
Hi Ane,
Once you begin working the neck band (*K1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round), you will notice that the knit stitches will workout to appear next to each other. I hope this helps clarify.
All the best,
Gavriella
HI
Love this sweater and currently knitting one for myself! I was just wondering.. what row gauge should I be getting? I am getting 7 rows to the inch. Just worried because when i did the pouch.. i was only at 10 inches when the 46 rows were complete for the pouch. I am concerned that if my row gauge is off, then my armhole depth with be too short! Please advise.. Thank you in advance!
Rick
Hello Rick.
Thanks for writing in. I was getting 7 rows to the inch as well.
Laura
My question is about sizing – my bust measures 34", which would indicate the M size if I wanted a few inches of ease (which I do), but my hip where I want the sweater to end is 37", not the 34" as stated by the pattern. I'm afraid of it getting horrendously baggy if I go up to the L size, but I also don't want it to be too tight across my stomach. Which would you recommend?
Shell Feda
—-
Hello Shell,
I did not see your comment, but wanted to address it so I have cut and pasted it above. The bottom edge is ribbed and will have quite a bit of give to it. At its most contracted it will measure much smaller than once it is on and worn, shaping more to your body. I would not go up in size.
Laura
Hi Laura,
I'm having a lot of trouble obtaining the correct gauge of 5.5 stitches per inch. I'm using Lion Brand Wool Ease Worsted and no matter how many sizes down I go wit my needles, the gauge is still much too big, at 4.5 or barely 5 stitches per inch. Do you have any suggestions?
Thank you!
elizabeth
Hello Elizabeth.
Sorry to hear you are struggling with the gauge. You want to be able to knit at 5 1/2 stitches to the inch comfortably and have it create a nice (not too dense or too stiff) fabric. I am worried if you keep going down in needle size, you might not enjoy knitting this project or like the finished product. I think what you might need is to switch yarns. I imagine this isn't what you want to hear. Swan's Island's Worsted is on the thin side of a worsted. It is nearly a DK even.
Please let me know if you have any other questions!
Laura
I've reached the section of the sweater where I'm picking up the stitches for the pouch. The directions said to mark the 7th stitch when knitting, and then pick up that one plus the next 93 (I'm knitting the M size).
When I picked up the 94 sts, I found that there are 9 stitches not picked up before the side "seams" on the far side, and six on the near (because the 7th one I marked was the one I started picking up.)
I may have added a stitch or two by accident. Should I shift the pouch a stitch or two to the left in order to compensate?
Hi Martha.
I would pick up as many stitches as you need to in order to center it. In other words, pick up until there are six stitches before the side 'seam' (ribbing).
It will just be a hair wider. All the better for keeping cold hands warm!
Laura
Hi! I absolutely adore this pattern for such a classic staple! I was wondering would your new "worsted twist" yarn be compatible with this pattern? If so how many skeins would be needed? Thanks!
hi laura!
i'm hoping to make the body of the sweater a little bit longer…maybe sit a couple inches lower than it would with the pattern. where would you suggest adding these extra rows? before i would mark the pouch?
thank you!
cara
Hi Laura,
Grate pattern. I am making it out of Berroco Vintage in the “petals” color which is a very dusty mauve.
I am adding a couple of tricks. First I put in steek and will be opening it up and inserting a jacket zipper. I also plan to add a hood.
I am almost done. I am up to the neck band. I am so excited to finish.
Hi Alicia,
Wonderful question…. The Worsted Twist is a little heavy for this pattern. Swan's Island Worsted is almost a DK or light Worsted. Where as the Worsted Twist is a more classic Worsted/Aran weight. (((But… top secret news: we might just be working on a pattern like this in Worsted Twist. I am not sure when it will launch however. But, sshhhhhh, that's all still in development.)))
Laura
Hi Cara.
Great question.
I would add the extra length between the bottom ribbing and the pouch. So yes, before you mark the pouch. You want the pouch to be at a comfortable height for your arms and hands. I worry about adding length above the pocket which might lower it down too far to use.
Hope this helps.
Laura
Being a little bottom heavy I am seriously considering knitting the large hips then adding some decrease rows after the pocket to end up with a medium bust. Does this just sound ridiculous? I most knit socks, but I am used to need to adapt a pattern to fit my feet…. waist shaping should be the same… maybe?
Hi Erin B.
That doesn't sound ridiculous at all! If you can navigate altering the geometry of a sock, you will can definitely handle narrowing what is essentially a tube or cylinder of primarily stockinette stitch.
Let me know if you get stuck and how it goes!
Laura
Hi there – I am knitting a size S and having trouble with the neck shaping. There are 56sts in the front section when the neck shaping begins, but the neck shaping and raglans eat up many more stitches than this.
The back section (56 sts) is reduced down to 40 sts before working the neckband – 16 rows total raglan shaping.
If the neck is divided in two (28 sts on each half of the centre front neck)
Row 2-3: Bind off 6 + 1st raglan decrease = 21sts remain
Row 4-5: Bind off 3 + 1st raglan decrease = 17sts remain
Row 6-7: Bind off 2 + 1st raglan decrease = 14sts remain
Row 8-9: Dec 1 – 1st raglan decrease = 12 sts remain
Then the instructions say to repeat rows 8-9 3 more times, which would mean 6 more stitches decreased on the front sections (so 6 sts remaining, BUT the instructions also say the front sections should have 10 sts remaining.
I am so confused!
Hi Anna.
I am so sorry for any frustration / confusion.
For the Small, after repeating Rows 8 and 9 three more times, you would have 12 stitches remaining for the front (6 stitches at each side of the crew neck shaping).
I will tidy up the wording on this. Again, I am sorry for any confusion and thank you for writing in.
Laura
Row 2-3: Bind off 6 + 1st raglan decrease = 42 sts remain
Row 4-5: Bind off 3 + 1st raglan decrease = 34 sts remain
Row 6-7: Bind off 2 + 1st raglan decrease = 28 sts remain
Row 8-9: Dec 1 – 1st raglan decrease = 24 sts remain
Row 8-9: again = 20 sts remain
Row 8-9: again = 16 sts remain
Row 8-9: again= 12 sts remain (6 for Front Right, 6 for Front Left)
Thanks so much for this pattern! It's my first sweater 🙂 I'm having trouble w/pocket.Row 3 says knit until the last 10 stitches then k2tog, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1. But 10 stitches is not enough. I think you need 12 stitches. Am I doing something wrong?
Hello Monica,
Let me try and clear this up.
K2tog, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1 = 10 stitches
You are only repeating what is within the brackets two times, I think you might be repeating the more than what's in the brackets to get to 12 stitches.
So written out, it's… K2tog, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k1
Let me know if you have any other questions. I am so glad you like pattern. Keep us posted!
Laura
I really like this sweater, but I've been looking for a pattern for a seed stitch sweater and I can't find anything worth making. Would knitting this pattern in a seed stitch instead of a stockinet affect the sizing too much?
Hello Sally,
Theoretically this sweater would work in Seed Stitch. I definitely recommend knitting up a swatch to make sure your gauge is ok. Also, I cannot account for how the ribbing details and Seed Stitch will interact. Seed Stitch is worked over a multiple of 2 stitches, so decreasing in Seed without interrupting the pattern requires a 2-stitch decrease, which is not accounted for here. What I am getting at is, yes, you can knit this in Seed Stitch, but keep in mind, the pattern was not written for a stitch pattern, so you might come accross unresolved moments.
Laura
Hi,
Question about the body of this pattern, I'm having trouble with the increase for the XS size. I currently have 168 stitches, but each time I finish the increase row, I have 6 stitches left at the end. Let me know if I'm reading this wrong.
For XS I am doing k5, k1fb x 8 times, then k2 p1 x 2 and repeating the whole sequence 3 times. I did the math and this equals 186, but I reach the end of the * and have 6 stitches, which then leaves me with 196+ stitches.. Too many
Then if I complete it k5, k1fb then k8, k1fb this all x 8 times, then k2, p1 x 2 it doesn't work either.
I have a hard time reading patterns, so for XS can you please clarify how to complete this specific row to achieve 186 at the end, I've ripped this row out several times!
Thanks so much!
Hi Lindsay.
Ok I think I know where the problem is.
First you… *K5, k1fb
Then… [k8, k1fb] 8 times for the XS
Then… [k2, p1] 2 times
You are now at the half way point.
And you start back at the asterisk, where it says "*K5…"
Does that help?
I believe you were repeating the "K5" over and over again, but it is only done twice, once at the beginning of the round and once right after the half way mark. It is the instructions starting with "k8" that is repeated over and over.
Please don't hesitate to contact us if this isn't clear or if you have any other questions along the way.
Laura
I am working on two sweatshirt sweaters and need help in finishing the necklines.
I want to raise the front neckline and either knit a roll or turtleneck, depending on the amount of yarn left. Will I be knitting in the round and ignoring the bind off stitches in
front but continuing the raglan decreases? Any help you can give me if so appreciated.
Love this and other sweater patterns.
Sincerely,
Kathie
Hi Kathie,
Fun idea.
Once you reach the section titled Make Neckband, you no longer need to do any decreasing. If you'd like to do a round or two more of it, you would end up with a more fitted turtleneck. Maybe you could continue the ribbing along that is along the raglan decreases into your turtleneck. That would feel cohesive.
If you have any questions once you've started, just let me know. I'll try to trouble shoot with you as best I can.
Laura
Did anyone else have trouble getting gauge on this?
I swatched super carefully on sz 4/5/6/7, but even on Sz 4 I'm getting 4.5st = 1'… Can't really see going any smaller than sz 4 so i guess I should CO a smaller pattern size?
I'm a slow knitter, this is my first sweater project, and I'm kinda terrified of potentially wasting dozens of hours! Any advice/anecdotes are appreciated.
I'm a bit confused about shaping the crew neck.. First it said for XS(S,L,XL) [no M], then there's a part about for XS only, M only, L only, and XL only [no 'S only']. So if I'm making a S sweater, do I only do the XS(S,L,XL) part and ignore the fact that there's no 'S only' part following it?
Hi Lily,
That is exactly right.
What is happening here is that different shaping has to happen for the different sizes in order to make sure the ribs at the raglan decreases align with the ribs at the neck band.
Laura
Hi Jackie.
I am sorry to hear you're struggling to hit gauge. It sounds like you are a much looser knitter than I am.
I understand your timidness about modifying, especially if this is your first sweater. Would you ever think of changing yarns? Swan's Island's Worsted is a very light weight worsted yarn. Perhaps you could look at Purl Soho's Worsted Twist or Madeline Tosh's Tosh Merino.
Please let us know what you decided to do with this project in case we can help in any way.
Thanks.
Laura
Hi Laura,
I have a quick question on the sleeve.
Does this repeat, "Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more times. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) stitches" include Round 4 AND the repeat of Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times?
————–
**Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two times, p1. (2 stitches increased)
Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1.
Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times.
————–
Thanks!
Jill
Hi Jill,
Great question… YES. Round 3, Round 4, Repeat Round 4 x number of times and then start all over again!
Hope you're enjoying the project.
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
Hi – love the pattern and really looking for ward to wearing my sweater! I'm having a little trouble on the raglan part. When I am decreasing, it seems as if the decreases are facing away from the knit/purl section. There are left facing decreases when I would have expected to see right facing decreases, for example. Is this what you intended or am I (more likely) reading the pattern wrong?
Thanks Susan
Thank you Susan, many years later! I was searching these comments with just this question because the decreases seemed backwards.
Hi Susan,
You have a good eye for detail! The decreases are done this way intentionally, but you are correct in that they are opposite of what is typical. Having the decreases 'facing away' causes the raglan ribbing to appear raised or popped-up a bit. It's a technique I thought would be nice to highlight the decreasing detail. You can of course do the decrease of your choice and make the pattern your own!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I'm using a yarn that requires more rows to get to the proper lengths, how can I make the sleeves taller? (Adding rows throughout the raglan)
Hi Susan.
Great question. To lengthen the sleeves, I would add an extra round or two between the Increase Rounds. Similarly, you can add a round while shaping the raglan as well!
Please let me know if you have more questions!
Laura
Hi Laura:
Thank you for sharing your pattern. I have swatched with some stash yarn to start this sweater, but am having difficulty getting gauge. I was planning on making it in the size medium, but after going down to size U.S. 4 ndls for the ribbing, the 206 stitches for the waist/hip band seems like it will swim on me. Can you give me an idea of how much ease this sweater has? Normally, I am a size medium, but am wondering if I'll get a good fit if I just go ahead and knit a size small instead. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks again for sharing the one-pice sweater — I hate seaming!
Eileen
Hi Eileen.
The dressform here has a 34 inch bust and is modeling the Small, with 3 1/2 inches of ease. I have a 36 inch bust and I would probably make myself the Small (with only 1 1/2 inches of ease). Since Swan's Island's Worsted is not a thick bulky yarn, the sweater can definitely be comfortably warn with fewer inches of ease than the industry standard of 4 inches.
I do hope this helps.
Please let me know if you have any other questions, on this or other things!
Laura
I am currently working on this sweater and I've run into an issue on the sleeve. Maybe I'm missing an increase? If I'm knitting a medium (44 stitches+ 2 increases in Rnd3) How am I suppose to end up with 81 stitches after completing Repeat **? According to the pattern that would be 28 increased stitches 46+ 28=74 not 81. Somehow I am missing 7 additional stitches. Could someone help me out here please?
Round 2: K35 (38, 44, 47, 53), place different color marker (pm), [p1, k2] two times, p1.
** Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two times, p1. (2 stitches increased)
Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1.
Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times.
Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more times. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) stitches
Repeat Round 3. 68 (77, 83, 92, 100) stitches
Hi Chrissy.
I'm here to help! If you are making the Medium…
Before you begin increasing, you have 51 stitches.
After Round 3 you have 53 stitches. (2 stitches increased)
After Round 4 you still have 53 stitches.
You repeat Round 4 five times, still have 53 stitches.
Then you repeat from the ** 14 more times.
14 repeats x the 2-stitch increase = 28 increase stitches
28 increase stitches + the existing 53 stitches = 81 stitches
Then, you repeat Round 3 once more giving you 83 stitches.
Does this help at all? I think you were looking at the set-up row which mentions working 44 stitches before placing a marker, but your total stitch count at that point is already 51.
Please write back if you have any questions!
Laura
Thank you for the excellent pattern! I just finished this (my very first sweater), and I'm fairly pleased with my work. I think a slightly finer yarn than I used (worsted but on the thicker side) would have given me a better drape, but overall, it looks pretty good. Purlbee has spoiled us all with such excellent, well-written patterns. I've learned all sorts of things I never thought I could have on my own!
Hello!
I am currently making this sweater in a size small and can't wait until it's done so I can wear it!!!! I have one question- when it says "for XS size only" "for Medium size only" "for large size only" and "for XLarge size only," does the size small just not do anything, or is there supposed to be something for the small to do, too? I'm guessing it's like in the step before where it says "For XS (Small, Large, XLarge) Sizes Only," but I wanted to make sure I was doing it right!!
Thanks in advance for any help!
-Alexandra
Hi Alexandra.
Follow the pattern for the size you are making. If a section has omitted your size, simply move on to the next section where your size is listed or it reads "For All Sizes"! You are absolutely doing it right and I am so thrilled to hear you are excited to wear your new sweater! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
Love this sweater. I am a little confused by the sizing and not sure what size to make. my Chest measures 36 inches and my hips are 38 inches. The hip measurements seem so small compared to the chest. I was thinking a medium would work in the chest. Is the bottom of that sweater just very stretchy?
this is my first sweater, and i am loving the pattern – i got so excited about it that i have nearly knit the whole thing in 3 weeks time. sadly i made a huge mistake that i am wondering if you have any advice for!
i was initially having some trouble knitting to gauge with my choice of yarn, and i waffled back and forth for a while, but i accidentally made the sleeves size S and body size XS. which, i am realizing now that i am shaping the neck, matters a lot. i had just done more decreases when i attached the sleeves but of course the # of sts between front/back & sleeves is off.
the trouble is, i also reaaaally like the way it's fitting right now, and wouldn't even want it done any differently. is there a way to do the neck without undoing everything? i am using a very dark yarn and can live with the raglan & neckband not lining up exactly as you have it, but as a total newbie to sweaters, i am not sure what the effect of less room to do the shaping in the front will be. can i just bind off/pick up fewer stitches without it looking awful? i believe i had 42 stitches in front/back at the beginning of the shaping section.. oh what a mess!
Hi Stacy,
The ribbing at the bottom of the sweater does have a lot of stretch or give, also, over time, this fabric, like all hand knits will morph to the wear-ers body a bit. There is no shaping in the body of the sweater. You'll have the same number of stitches from just above the rib to the underarms. The ribbing at the base just pulls in some, like a sweatshirt. I think the Medium would work for you!
Laura
Hi Rowan,
Wow… that's a doozy of a situation. Definitely not unsolvable, but a bit complicated…
You'll want to continue the raglan following the steps for the Small at the sleeve and the XSmall at the front and back… I would print the raglan portion of the pattern and see what decreasing happens in these parts of the garments for the sizes you need. Then when it comes to picking up for the front neck, you'll be able to follow the pattern as instructed for the xs. At this point, the numbers should work out so that you still have the raglan ribbing going right into the neck ribbing.
Laura
When going up the sides, is there a strip of that k2p1 pattern? can I possibly get a picture of the side under the arms?
Hi Susan,
Yes, there is a 2 x 1 rib that travels up the side of the sweater. We have posted all of our images of this garment here. Did you If you see the image under thesection FINISH UNDERARMS? You can see the side ribbing a bit in that shot. I will try and dig up some more images, but I believe this is all of them. Is there a specific question you had about the ribbing?
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hello!
So this is my first attempt at a sweater (I'm making the medium size) and it was going great until I got a little confused. When finished with the initial increase round after the rib at the start of making the body, from the beginning of the round to the next marker is 96 sts; but the number of sts from that marker to the beginning of the round again is 110 sts. Do I do the *(P1,K2)twice, P1* before I knit the 7 sts, then mark the start of the pouch? I feel like I might have done the aforementioned repetitive pattern in the wrong place, doing it immediately at the start of each round. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I hope this makes sense!
Kat
Hi Kat!
Thanks for writing in. Let's figure this out.
First you knit the 96, place a marker that's a different color or shape than the beginning of round marker, (k1, p1) twice, p1, then knit 96 again, place a marker and then (k1, p1) twice, p1. At this point you should be at the beginning/end of the round.
So again, its… stockinette, marker, rib, stockinette, marker rib.
Please let me know if you have any questions at all!
Laura
I think I misplaced the beginning of round market. i Have attached the sleeves already and attached the right sleeve first , the left sleeve is my "second sleeve".
My new begining of the round marker is just before starting the first stitch on the right sleeve. Am I doing it right?
I guess what I wan to know is: where do I star the ranglan shaping?
Please help me! (I am having that "I really want to finish this sweater and wear it" crisis)
Hi Anne,
If you take a look at the second round under ATTACH THE SLEEVES you'll see a stitch count: 294 (332, 356, 386, 414) total stitches: 86 (96, 104, 112, 120) stitches for front and back, 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) stitches for each sleeve
If your beginning of round marker is placed just after the second sleeve stitches, you can use the stitch counts above to ensure your markers are all where they ought to be.
Please let me know if you have any questions!
Enjoy finishing the sweater!!
Laura
Bonsoir , je vis en France et j'adore ou plutt mon Mari adore le modle , mais pourriez vous m'expliquer pour les manches au niveau des augmentations faut -il faire un RG3 et un Rg 4 , ou 17 fois le Rg3 ? Ou 1fois le Rg3 , 4fois le Rg4 et rpter ces 6rg 17 fois je prcise que je fais la taille Large merci beaucoup pour votre rponse
Hi Sabrina-
I'm afraid we don't speak French, and that Google Translate isn't very helpful for stuff like this so I don't think we can be of much help. Sorry!
Molly
Hi Sabrina: my French is rusty, but I believe the answer to your question on the sleeves is: knit row (rang) 3 then knit row (rang) 4 a total of 5 times – then go back and repeat that group of 6 rows (Rg 3, Rg 4, Rg 4, Rg 4, Rg 4, Rg 4) another 17 times to obtain the desired sleeve length for size large. Bonne chance. Aly
Hi Laura, I'm finishing up a sleeve, but I'm confused with the instructions your wrote. Can you tell me what K0 is?
"Next Round: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers."
Hi Jane.
Thanks for writing in. I hope you've enjoyed the pattern so far.
K0 simply means knit zero stitches, then place previous 7 stitches on a stitch holder…
The idea is that you want to have the side ribbing centered under the arm, and for some of the larger sizes, you have to knit past the ribbing and then place more stitches on hold, but for the smaller sizes, you can just knit zero.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Love this pattern but am very sad that it was a 20 page print out! Most of the printing is pictures of the sweater, not so great for the environment. Something to think about 😉
Hi Eileen-
We hear you! To avoid this we always recommend that you print our patterns by copying and just the text and photos needed into a Word or Text doc and printing from there. Or you could use a site like Printfriendly.com which will take all of the photos out with the click of a button.
We know this isn't ideal but unfortunately we don't have the man power to reformat all of our free patterns to be optimized for printing so hopefully one of these solutions will work for you!
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Thank you for the reply, Laura! Can't wait to finish the sweater~ One more question.
I made a few adjustments with the instructions to make the sleeves more custom fitted to me. I'm also kind of using one of my own sweaters underneath as a template. Regardless of those changes, do I knit the sleeve up to the underarm or the shoulder?
Hi Jane.
I love that you're making modification and using a favorite sweater as your template. It's a familiar sounding process!
In regards to the sleeves… You knit up to the underarm. Then you'll join the sleeves to the body and work the yoke of the garment all together.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I love this pattern so much! For the US #7, 24 or 32-inch circular needle, is it acceptable to use a US #7, 29-inch circular needle instead?
Hi Rosie.
Yes, a US #7, 29-inch would work just wonderfully in place of a 24 or 32-inch circular.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Thanks so much for the pattern! I’m working on it now — it’s my first sweater. I do have a quick question though — I just finished all of the increase rounds on my first sleeve, but it seems a bit short. When I slip it on, it only goes up to my underarm. Is that how far it’s meant to go, or should I add more rows before I move on to finishing the sleeve?
Also, what do you mean by the instruction “Repeat Round 3. 68 (77, 83, 92, 100) stitches?” I’m not really clear on that one.
Thanks for your help!
Hi Megan.
Regarding the sleeves… By your description, they sound perfect. At this point they should reach from your wrist to your underarm. They will grow in length once you join them to the body and shape the yoke of the sweater.
Regarding the “Repeat Round 3″… Since Round 3 results in an increase of 2 stitches… Once you finish the line of instructions that reads “Repeat Round 3…” you will have 68 (77, 83, 92, 100) stitches. Those numbers are the stitch count.
Definitely let me know if you have any other questions Megan! This sweater is a favorite of mine. I hope you enjoy it.
Laura
Hi! I’m in love with this sweater! Got me some briggs & little to whip it up. Was hoping I could make it for my husband for Christmas but am wondering if you’d consider this a girls sweater? Is there quite a bit of shaping that would make it a more feminine shape? Or would you consider it to be a good unisex pattern?
Hi Dannielle-
We think this would work fine. But men have longer arms then women, typically. So you may way to work an extra round or two between increases rounds on the sleeve.
Hope this helps!
Molly
I love this pattern! I made one for myself earlier this year and my daughter has requested one for her 8th birthday next month. I’m modifying the pattern for her much-smaller size and would like some help with the shaping at the chest and neck: she’d prefer a henley-style collar but with a hood, too. I have some idea of how to do this, but any advice is greatly appreciated. She also has requested a light worsted (baby) yarn, so I’ll have to do some maths/modification to get gauge.
TIA for your help!
~K
Hi K.
Wow. You have a quite a project ahead of you… changing the gauge, grading the size down, adding a hood and henley collar. I’m happy to help you trouble shoot as you come to different road bumps, but I can’t say that I have any tip coming to me right off the bat. But again, I am here and always happy to discuss modifications!
Let us know how it goes.
Laura
Thankfully I found a yarn that is perfect gauge, no mods there! The sizing maths haven’t been too hard and since she’s still growing, I’m making it a little big. I’ve done some planning ahead for the mods to the shaping to incorporate the Henley collar (I’ll attack the hood after the collar is started). Right now my plan is to ignore the “bind off ‘x’ stitches” at the beginning of each row, except the first, to create the button band/placket opening. I’m not entirely certain how to do the Henley collar and I’m not finding any help with google. Thankfully, I have some time, as her birthday isn’t until the end of November.
Any suggestions for incorporating the Henley collar into the raglan shaping?
I completed the body of the sweater and I’m really happy with how it’s turned out. I’m working on the hood now.
Here’s a link to see the (nearly) finished sweater. http://i.imgur.com/UmiAO3E.jpg
Hi Kendra-
Thank you for sharing. It looks great!
Best-
Molly
Hi!
Kendra, I’m with Molly… this looks great.
Thanks for sharing it with us. Definitely keep us posted on the hood. I love all your mods to the pattern!
Laura
Where can I get this pattern for download? Love it
Hi Barbara-
We are working on making all of our patterns more savable and printer friendly but unfortunately right now we don’t have a perfect solution to your question. For the moment we recommend that you go to printfriendly.com and print (or save as a PDF) from there. It’s pretty simple!
Thanks for getting in touch and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
Hi! I’m a (relatively) new knitter and I want to make this sweater. What would a good substitute be for the yarn you used? On the Swans Island website, 1 skein of this yarn is $32, making this a $160 sweatshirt. Can you recommend any cheaper alternatives?
Hi Cherice.
I’d love to suggest some alternate yarns…
Cascade’s 220
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/649-Cascade-Yarns-Cascade-220
Brooklyn Tweed’s Shelter
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7795-Brooklyn-Tweed-Shelter
Let me know if you have any questions about either of these or others you come across.
Thanks.
Laura
hi just having a real hard time attaching the sleeves
Not the greatest knitter but knitting for at least 56 years off and on
do you think you could help me
Thanks Donna
Hi Donna-
We’re happy to help! What step or instruction specifically are you having trouble with?
Molly
Attach Sleeves Done Round 1
Round two confused not attach the sleeves
Hi Donna.
Under the heading JOIN THE SLEEVES, first you work across the body of the sweater, place underarm stitches on hold, continue across the body. Then the second round, you place the second set of underarm stitches on hold, then continue across the body, then across the first sleeve, then across the back body, then across the second sleeve, and then you place a new end-of-round marker and join for working all 294 (332, 356, 386, 414) total stitches in the round!
Does that help?
I’m not sure specifically what you’re hung up on, but if you write us back with more questions, hopefully we can figure it out together!!
Laura
The chest measurement of your beautiful pattern puts me into the large size category, but my hips measure 46. Do you have any suggestions? Was this pattern written for a man?
Hi Bridget.
There is no waist shaping in this sweater, but I actually initially wrote the pattern for women (specifically me). If I were you I think I would work the bottom edge ribbing in the same size needle as you plan on working the body in. That way, the ribbing will be more of a visual texture change, rather than a shaping device. The Ribbing is also quite forgiving, it will probably grown and change to suit your body. Or you could work the front half of the ribbing flat and then the back half of the ribbing flat and then join them together when you switch to stockinette so that you have a slit at each side. Another option would be to cast on for the XL and then work decreases evenly, along the sides, until you are back down to the stitch count for the Large. This last option is definitely the most math-heavy option.
I’d love to help you get going on the project though so if you have any questions, please write us back here!
Laura
I am planning to make this as my first-ever knit sweater. I will likely make a medium. I am wondering how high the collar will likely fall? It is on, above, or below the collarbone (on average)? I want to be sure the style will look good! 🙂
Thanks,
Phoebe
Hey Phoebe.
Great question.
It’s just about on the collar bone, maybe a hair above it.
Have you taken a look at the Ravelry page for it. Sometimes it helps to see other people’s versions: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/sweatshirt-sweater-2
Just click on the projects tab along the top.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Love this pattern! But I’ve run into a slight problem. I just realized as I knit this the wrong side was always facing me. Now that I’ve come to “Continue Raglan and Shape Crew Neck”, I’m not sure if I should follow the directions and turn the work before I start so the right side faces me… or if I should reverse the directions because I’ve knit the sweater with the wrong side facing me all along… if that makes sense? Thanks!
Hi Jennifer.
Did you knit the sleeves inside out too?
You could just keep going! It sounds like it’s working for you ok? I’m so curious what it looks like. Or you could change directions when you’re joining the sleeves, that seems like a safe place to turn the piece right side out and carry on as the pattern says without anyone noticing the direction change.
I am a little curious how you knit it inside out. Is the purlside of the fabric facing you or is the knit side facing you. Perhaps the piece is insideout, but you’re actually working across the knitside?
I’d love more details about this to help you finish this up!!!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi, I have just started the first sleeve and I’m wondering if when you say knit to next marker (round three) if you are counting the beginning round marker as the next marker or am I knitting from the marker I placed in round 2 around to the same marker ( the one from round 2)?
Also, when I knit to the next marker and do a M1R is it between the stitch before or after the marker that I m1r?
Should I have 2 stitches left on my needle when I have done the last (p1, k2) 2 times, p1 (in round 3)? Thanks
Hi Diane.
Thanks for writing in!
On the sleeve… After you rib the cuff for 3 inches, in Round 2, you’ll knit to 7 stitches before the end-of-round marker, you’ll place a new marker, then you’ll p1, k2, p1, k2, p1. In Round 3, with the end-of-round marker on the right needle, you’ll m1L, then knit to the next marker (which is that new marker you placed in Round 2), m1R, slip the new marker, then work those last 7 stitches… p1, k2, p1, k2, p1. At this point you’ll be back at the end-of-round marker.
Please let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks.
Laura
Hi. Could you tell me how long the sleeve should be please for a size small, before joining it to the body? Many thanks!
Anna!
What an amazing question. Thank you for asking. With a gauge of 7 rows to the inch, the sleeves…
= 3 inches + 98 (107, 122, 128, 135) rows
= approximately 3 inches + 14 (15 1/4, 17 1/2, 18 1/4, 19 1/4) inches
= approximately 17 (18 1/4, 20 1/2, 21 1/4, 22 1/4) inches
Thanks again for writing in about this. I will see about getting this info into the pattern!
Laura
Wow that’s very useful info – just what I was about to ask. I just began this project and it is my first attempt to knit a sweater but as I’m way very petite I use slightly lighter yarn. The width seems to be perfect but I think it will be too short – could I just knit more rounds to compensate on that?
Hi Aurelija.
Yes! You can. Just work evenly until the piece is the desired height from cast on edge to underarms!
We’re here is you have any questions!
Laura
Hi Laura,
I have knit the sleeve way too short and found this comment thread–I don’t have anywhere near the correct number of rows. For the size small, I keep getting 3 inches of ribbing + 92 rows and I can’t figure out what I’m leaving out.
I get (for a small):
3 inches ribbing
1 setup row
15 repeats of 6 rows (1 increase row + 5 straight rows written as round 4 then round 4 four more times)
1 final increase row
What am missing? It would seem that I am just missing a row between each increase, but I absolutely can’t figure out how I’m skipping over that in the pattern.
Hi Hannah.
Thanks for writing in. I think you’re just missing an even round between increases…
First you worked 3 inches, then
Round 2
Round 3
Round 4
Then Round 4 five MORE times (I think this is where you’re getting off pattern, it’s 6 total rounds of Round 4. the initial Round 4 and then Round 4 five more times).
At this point you’ll have 3 inches + 8 rounds
Then you repeat everything from Round 3 fourteen times
At this point you’ll have 3 inches + 8 rounds + 98 rounds
Then Round 3
Then “Next Round”
At this point you’ll have 3 inches + 8 rounds + 98 rounds + 2 rounds
= 3 inches + 108 rounds
Hannah, I hope this helps! Let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hi Laura,
I’m in the middle of my first sleeve and found this comment thread–I am also making a size small and according to the pattern you are supposed to repeat Round 4 four more times (five times total) between increase rounds as Hannah said above, but your response says to repeat Round 4 six times total (in the original pattern this is true of the extra small and medium sizes, but not the small). Which is correct? Thanks for your help!
Hi Jillian.
Thank you so much for writing in!
Yes, for the small it’s FOUR more times, making a total of 5 rounds.
I do hope Hannah figured out what was best for her length arms.
Thanks again Jillian!
Laura
This is such a comfy pattern. Would love to go for it…I’m a guy – I can’t figure out if the pattern is fairly fitted with curves or if that is just the dress form it is on. Do you think it’s appropriate to go ahead with it if I just stick to my own measurements? Thanks!
Ben… You are in luck. There is absolutely no shaping in the body of this sweater. It’s great for men. I say go for it! I would recommend taking a look at your sleeve length before you start the sleeves though. You may want to work an extra round between the increases. Similarly, you may want a couple/few more inches from the bottom edge to underarm. Let me know if you have any questions along the way!
Thanks for writing in!
Laura
I love this sweater. I am currently knitting if for my sister as a ski sweater, and am wondering if the neckline could be modified to be knit with short rows rather than casting off in the front. Any thoughts as to how to plan this? Thanks in advance for any help you could offer.
Hi Jayne.
I’m so glad you like the sweater.
I do love shaping necks using short rows. I didn’t here and unfortunately don’t have the pattern written for that. I say go for it though. My only tip would be to just remember to continue the ribbing pattern at the raglan shaping! Let us know how it goes!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
As the Swans Island is no longer available I did see you recommended the Cascade 220, would I still need 5 skeins for a small?
Also this is my first sweater and not sure about the measurements. For the sleeve it states “finished length sleeve cuff to underarm” does this include the ribbing section? it seems really short for someone to have 16 inch arms. I am measuring wrist to under arm “pit” area and I get about 20 inch. I am a small person and other than broad shoulders would measure Xsmall. Thanks for any advice.
Hi Lisa.
Thanks for writing in.
Regarding yardage: an XSmall requires 4 skeins of Swan’s Island’s Worsted (250 yards each) so to substitute it for Cascade’s 220 (220 yards each), you’ll need 5 skeins!
As for the sleeve size: For the XSmall, you’ll be adding 7 1/2 inches to your sleeve length during the raglan shaping totalling to approximately 23 1/2 inches from shoulder to cuff. If this is too short for you, you can easily modify the pattern by adding a round or two rounds between increase rounds while you’re working your sleeve!
Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I have finished my sweater, but I’m finding that the neck hole is a little big. The diameter of the circle is rather large and shows a lot more chest than I’d care for. I made a size small. Do you have any recommendations? I was considering ripping back before starting the neck ribbing and decreasing down to the number of sts for XS (96 instead of the 111). Do you think this would work? Thank you!
Hi Veronica.
I think that would be a great modification.
Just remember to maintain the ribbing along the raglan shaping and I think any adjustments you make will look great!
Thanks for sharing your feedback on the pattern with us. Always very helpful to hear.
Laura
I’ve just started knitting this and went for a size large but the wrists of the sleeve seem massive! Twice as big as a normal sleeve. I’ve done a swatch to check gauge and it came out fine and on the size chart the bust on the large might be a little too big but the hips will be snug. Am I doing something wrong here?
Hi Olivia.
I’m not sure what’s going on! If you’ve made a gauge swatch and are getting the right number of stitches to the inch, I can’t imagine why the cuffs would be so large.
As for the hips being snug. That is the measurement of the rib edge, unstretched, it will stretch out and fit nicely. It’s a common concern when people take a look a this pattern, but that ribbing is very forgiving and like all knits, will shape to the wearer. But if you decide to drop down to the Medium and are worried about the ribbing being too narrow… don’t use a smaller needle for the ribbing, use the same size needle as you do for the body of the sweater.
Hope this helps some.
Please let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hi Laura! Thanks for the pattern!
I was wondering if you could clear something up for me: which is the right side of the ribbing? I’m working the sleeve now and it looks like the more textured side of the fabric (purlside) will end up on the inside of the sleeve. Is that correct? Is the same true of the ribbing at the bottom of the body?
Thanks for your help!
Hi MJ.
You are correct, the side with more purl stitches is the inside! This is true for the body of the sweater as well.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi! I’m very New to knitting and I want to try this..
I’m about to start knitting this but I wanted to knit it with Cotton Fair yarn, which is a weight 3 yarn, using size 6 needles already creates a gappy look.. I know using smaller needles will change the size, any suggestions for what I can do to use this smaller yarn? Thank you and I love the sweater !
Hi Tani.
Welcome to the wonderful world of knitting! I love that you want to try this pattern. It’s one of my favorites.
Substituting yarn on certain projects is a snap, easy as can be, especially for scarves or some cowls, blankets, etc. But modifying a pattern for a garment like this is a bit of an undertaking. By the sounds of it, your yarn is a light DK weight or sport weight yarn, thinner than a worsted weight like I used. You could make a larger size at this new tighter gauge. To figure out which larger size… swatch, then divide the stitch counts at the chest [186 (206, 226, 246, 266)] to figure out which would best fit. It’s just hard to say if the raglan shaping is going to translate at the new gauge though. You may end up with generous armholes, but they may end up just fine.
If you’re curious about our patterns that use DK weight yarn… we have a gallery of them here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/tag/sport-weight-yarn/
If you decide to modify the pattern, let me know if you run into any trouble along the way. I’d love to help!
Thanks.
Laura
Laura,
Your other replies have been so clear and succinct that I am hopeful you can answer my question. (I am pretty sure this question has not already been asked.) Although I have knitted dozens of pairs of socks, this is my first sweater and I wanted to knit it in the round, which is why I chose this pattern (in addition to how perfect a garment it appears to be!)
I understand all the directions for knitting the sleeves and knitting the body, but when it comes to shaping the raglan, I am completely confused about how it switches to knitting rows back and forth instead of in the round.
Does this mean that each row goes the entire “circumference” of the sweater (front, sleeve, back, sleeve) and then just reverses instead of continuing in the round? Or is just the front and one sleeve considered a “row?”
And I am not able to visualize how the binding off works from the pictures (but that’s okay as long as I can understand the directions!)
Thank you so much for your help.
Sincerely,
Joanne.
Hi Joanne!
Welcome to the world of sweater knitting! I’m thrilled you picked the Sweatshirt Sweater for your first one!
After you work the sleeves and set them aside, you’ll work the body from the bottom edge up. Then you’ll join the body to the sleeves. You’ll continue working in the round until the neck shaping. It is at this point that you work back and forth in rows. You’ll be binding off at the beginning of each row to shape the neck and then continuing to the end of the row. Then you’ll turn your work and then bind off again, and continue to the end, back and forth. It is for a very small portion of the project.
I do hope this helps and please write me back if you have any questions!
Laura
This is exactly where I am confused for two reasons. I have worked out everything using your directions and past experience, but now that I am at doing it back and forth, not in the round I have two problems. Where is the 1st marker on the sweater? If you are looking at the front, and there are four markers,
Hi Marlene,
Thanks for writing in and our apologies for the delayed response! Can you please clarify for me where in the pattern you are? What section are you working on? This will help me to figure out how best to help you!
Best,
Cassy
Laura,
I am knitting the size large sweater. I have finished the 3 repeats of Rows 8 & 9 and have 100 total stitches, 12 front, 50 back and 19 each sleeve.
The pattern says, For XS, (small, large, xlarge) sizes only.
Repeat Row 8
Next Row: (knit to 6 sts before marker, etc. I only have 6 stitches (6 on each front side).
Am I doing something wrong?
Should I skip to the, For Large size only and knit to 4 stitches before marker?
If yes, should my count then be, 48 back, 19 each sleeve and 12 (6 each front side).
I was hoping to finish it this week.
Thanks
Diane
Hi Diane.
I’m glad you wrote in! Don’t skip that row. Since you only have 12 stitches at the front, 6 on each side, and you’re already 6 stitches from the marker, go right into the k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm…
Then go to the FOR LARGE SIZE ONLY section.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
I made this for my daughter after finding out she had gone to thrift shops looking for this style when it started getting cold at school. I made a huge mistake completely my fault and had to do the body over again. But the pattern was easy to read and it turned out beautiful. My daughter is 5’3″ and all of 120 lbs so I made the xs which from what she says is still a bit large on her. She is in love and will now be warmer while she is away at school.
Could I just use circular needles? I don’t have double pointed needles in those sizes?
Hi Annette-
I’m afraid you do need to get the double pointed needles as well because the circumference of the sleeves will be too small to fit onto most double pointed needles.
Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
I have had a lot of trouble with the underarms because I did not read far enough ahead.
What if i grafted the pattern stitches under the arm to the pattern stitches on the body initially. would that still work or do I have to rip once more?
Hi DeeDee.
I think it’ll turn out fine!
You may find that once you’ve finished the yoke, you may want to go back and tidy up the grafting, but I think it should be alright that you went ahead and did it!
Let me know how it goes!
I’m really curious.
Thanks,
Laura
Hi! I’m currently knitting the neckband of this sweater and I noticed what may be a mistake in the pattern. Where it says to pick up stitches and k1, p1, k1, repeat, I believe it should be k2, p1, k2, repeat so it matches the ribbing for the sleeves and waistband. I found it odd that the neckband would switch to a 1×1 rib, so I looked at the photos of your sweater and noticed you used a 2×1 rib for the neck as well. Thank you so much for this wonderful pattern!
Hi Amy.
Thanks for writing in.
Repeating K1, p1, k1… make a 2×1 rib. So it does match the other ribbing in the piece. That last k1 of one repeat ends up next to the first k1 of the next repeat… 2 knit stitches next to one another. I had to write it k1, p1, k1 so that the ribs would align with the ribbing in the raglan.
Hope this helps.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hey Laura!
I’ve just finished the section entitled “Begin Raglan Shaping.” I want to clarify a few things before I move on to working in rows.
First, how far along should my sweater be before I switch to working in rows? My stitch count matches the end of the “Begin Raglan Shaping” section, but my sweater is nowhere near looking like the one under the section heading. Laid flat and measuring straight up, I’ve completed about 7 inches above the underarm. My active stitches still fill my 32″ circular needle (they’re not bunched up at all, but I’ve definitely not decreased to the point where I’ve only got a neckline-sized circle of active stitches). Is that correct? Will the next section really take my sweater from almost shoulder-width down to a neckline? If that’s not correct, do you have any idea how I’ve gone wrong?
Secondly, I’m a bit confused about the first instruction on the “Continue Raglan and Shape Crew Neck” section. I’m making the small size, so my sleeves currently have 30 active stitches. The first instruction tells me to p1, k2, p1, k24. However, this only totals 28 stitches. Am I really supposed to stop two stitches shy of my next marker (in the middle of the raglan ribbing) to end the row and turn the work around? If so, does that mean that the 6 stitches I would bind of in the next round are in the sleeve? It just seems a bit strange to me.
Sorry for the complex questions — I’ve never put so much time into a single project before, so I’m really hesitant to jump into things that I’m not 100% sure about. Too much to risk!
Thanks for your help!
Hi CB.
Sorry for the delayed response, CB!
It sounds like you’re in the perfect place to start working in rows. The photo just under BEGIN RAGLAN SHAPING is of what the sweater will look like after you’ve completed all of the rows and just before you start the neckline.
For your second question… That first row is a right side row and will take you to the center of the front and then the next row is a wrong side row you’ll be binding off six stitches just to the left of the center of the front of the sweater. I think maybe you were looking at the first row as a wrong side row and working across your sleeve rather than the front? Could that be possible?
Oh and CB, please do not for a second apologize for the complex questions! I’m thrilled to help and I’m so sorry there was such a delay getting back to you. Please please please do not hesitate to reach out again with any question on this project or any other!
Best,
Laura
Hello again!
Quick question: what should the sweater look like in between the “Begin Raglan Shaping” and “Continue Raglan and Shape Crew Neck” sections? I ask because my sweater doesn’t seem to be as far along as the one pictured below the “Begin Raglan” heading. My circle of active stitches seems larger than the crew neck should be and when I slip on my sweater it hangs off my shoulders still. My stitch count is correct according to the numbers listed at the end of the “Begin Raglan” section, but I’m concerned — I’m only 2 rows away from binding off 6 stitches, but I don’t think my sweater is decreased enough yet.
Does it sound like I’ve made a mistake or is that what it’s supposed to be?
Thanks!
Hi MJ!
I sounds like you’re in the right place! The picture just under BEGIN RAGLAN SHAPING is showing what the sweater will look like once you’ve completed that section and the CONTINUE RAGLAN AND SHAPE CREW NECK section.
I see how that is misleading though! I’ll take a look at it.
But you seem to be in the right spot so carry on! You’re in the home stretch!!
Laura
Hi,
I was wondering if you could substitute the merino wool with alpaca wool.
Thanks,
Isabel
Hi Isabel.
You could definitely substitute in an alpaca yarn. Alpaca is a heavier fiber and will drape more and probably bloom/grow/stretch a bit more than merino would, so just be mindful of that when you’re working up your swatch and figuring our your needle sizes!
Hope this helps.
Best.
Laura
LOVE this sweater. I am at the neckband and couldn’t wait so I tried it on with the circular needle attached! I used Swans Island and it is heavenly. My question is this; I don’t see instructions for the small size on pages 15 or 16. Sorry if this was already answered but I couldn’t read through all 100+ comments. Thanks!!
Hi Samantha!
Goodness there sure are a lot of comments on this post. I’m glad you went ahead and wrote in.
For the Small, the last thing you do in the CONTINUE RAGLAN AND SHAPE CREW NECK is found under the heading…
For XS (Small, Large, XLarge) Sizes Only
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row: [Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 74 (78, 92, 94) stitches: 10 for right and left front, 38 (40, 48, 50) for back, 13 (14, 17, 17) for each sleeve
Then for the Neckband, the instructions are found under the NECKBAND heading…
For this section, you will once again be working in the round, no longer back and forth in rows.
Continuing with the right side facing you and now using the smaller, 16-inch circular needle, pm (new beginning of round), pick up 30 (33, 36 ,36 ,39) stitches evenly along the front neckline. Continuing around the remaining 66 (78, 78, 90, 90) stitches, *k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round. 96 (111, 114, 126, 129) stitches
Next Round: *K1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until ribbing measures 1 1/4 (1 1/4, 1 1/2 ,1 3/4 , 2) inches.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
I hope this answers your question. If I’ve misunderstood, please write us back and we’ll figure this out!
Thanks again.
Laura
I love this pattern would love to knitting this pattern will add to my wishlist
Hi! I love this sweater – thanks for the great (free!) pattern. I am so close to being done; I’ve come to the “Continue Raglan and shape crew neck” and I can’t seem to get past the first couple of rows.
I understand row 1: I am now stopped in the middle of the front of the neck, and ready to turn the work and purl.
For row 2: If I follow these directions, then I’ve only crossed one sleeve with the ribbing pattern. It appears on both sleeves though. Does this row go literally all the way around to the front again, or is it only meant to go to the back half of the sweater?
Right now I have 4 markers, each involving a part of the ribbing pattern going up the sleeves.
These instructions (for the next 9 rows) only account for 2 of those markers though.
Does each row knit around the entire sweater?
Thanks for any help!
I can’t wait to finish
Ellen
Hi Ellen.
Thanks for writing in. I’m glad you’re liking the sweater.
As for Row 2… Yes, it goes all the way around (or across really, since you’re now working in rows rather than rounds) the sweater. I think maybe you might have overlooked the “two times” that follows the instructions within the [brackets]. This line of pattern first tells you to bind off then the brackets come in and it says to [purl up to the marker then work the ribbing and slip the marker and then more ribbing and then purl across the sleeve to the next marker and rib, slip, rib again]. Those brackets are followed by “two times”. Once you work everything in the brackets a second time you’ll have gone across the back and then the next sleeve. Then you’re instructed to purl to the end.
I do hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Laura
Oh wow! I did overlook it. This makes every bit of sense now. Thanks for setting me straight… It’s so easy to get stuck on a direction! 🙂
Hi Laura,
I’d like to find out if you have any instructions so that I can make this into a hoodie? Perhaps to add a hood and a zipper?
I’m so excited I found this, as I’ve been looking for exactly this type of style for some time now :).
I appreciate your help!
Thank you,
April
Hi April.
Sadly we do not have instructions to make this into a hoodie! We’ve been dying to get a hoodie pattern written though. It’s definitely on the list.
Thanks for writing in. -Laura
Is there any way to make the collar a bit wider? I used to have a black and white striped sweater which looks just like this but with a wide boatneck that ended just below my collarbones. Someone had given it to me and it had a lot of sentimental value (wore it on my first date with my boyfriend of 3 years), but the person who gave it originally took it back… I want to make this in black and white stripes like my old sweater so, a) any tips on striping this one? and b) any tips on expanding out the collar? I LOVE the shaping, since it’s the exact same as the one I loved, but it looks really narrow.
Hi Elizabeth.
For the neck… Yes! If you stop working the raglan section earlier than instructed, the neck will be both wider and lower. Just keep in mind that you’ll have to modify the neckband instructions for the ribbing.
For the stripes… Unfortunately at this time we only have this pattern available as written, in a solid color. You could check out this project (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2010/03/28/whits-knits-springtime-bandana/) to read about single row striping, it may be helpful when you need to work flat to shape the crewneck.
Good Luck! Let us know how it turns out! -Laura
Hope it goes well!
I am absolutely loving this sweater! It’s the first I’ve ever made (just learned to knit this year) and I’m almost done with the raglan decreases. I’m a bit confused on the neck shaping where the pattern splits into the different sizes. It says “For XS (SMALL, LARGE, XLARGE) sizes only” and then underneath “For XS size only,” do I do both sections to get down to the ending stitch count? Also, I’m looking at the armpit area and it looks like there are going to be two large holes on either side of the kitchener stitching, is there any tricks to reduce this? I held everything extra tight while attaching but they still appeared. And is there a way to continue in the ribbing with the kitchener?
Thank you so much for the lovely pattern!
Hi Emily.
Yes! Do all the sections that list the size you are making plus all the sections that are for all the sizes.
As for the holes at the underarm… if you leave a tail at the beginning and end of the graphed fabric, you can take a few extra stitches at each end, on the inside, to close up those holes. Those holes don’t have anything to do with how tightly you work the kitchener portion. I would try and keep your kitchener stitch as close to on-gauge as possible for invisibility.
Thanks for writing in! Please let me know if you have any questions! -Laura
Hi,
I have knit up around 3/4 of the body and found that I did this quite quickly. Alas I then (and only then) noticed that the wrong side of the garment was on the outside! This is the first time knitting in the round and can not work out where I have gone wrong and how to put it right. Please help, I really hope I don’t have to pull it out!
Thanks,
Rachael
X
Hi Rachel.
Thanks for writing in and congrats on all your progress on this piece!
Are you sure the piece hasn’t just gotten jumbled up in your project bag. Have you been primarily purling? When you work, are the tips of the needles farther away than the rest of the cord which is closer to you? I’m curious if you can just arrange your circulars differently?
If you have indeed been purling mostly and are working the wrong side of the fabric, here’s what you can do… Once you are at the end of the round, get the needles and fabric arranged so that you are ready to work with the right side out. Work a round this way. You may end up with a small hole or gap at that point where you changed directions.
Please let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi! I was just wondering, what ply wool I should use?
Thanks, Bridget
Hi Bridget.
Thanks for writing in.
This Swan’s Island yarn is a light worsted yarn / DK / 8 ply.
We no longer sell this specific yarn, but I’d be happy to suggest some alternatives if you’d like!
Thanks again for writing in.
Laura
Would it be too hard to maybe do the XL arms with the L everything else?
Hi Dez.
You could do this, but you’d have to follow one pattern for the shaping at the body and a different pattern for the shaping at the sleeves. Plus you’ll have to choose how many rows to work between joining the sleeves and the neckband because a different number of rounds/rows are worked for the different sizes. Also when you get to the neckband, you’ll have to adjust the pattern in order for the ribbing along the raglan to flow seamlessly into the ribbing at the neckband.
It is possible, it’ll just take a lot of concentration and modifications. If you decide to go for it, let us know how it turns up!
Thanks for writing in, let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hey there! I’ve knit the first sleeve of my sweater, and I think I’ve made a mistake. In the pattern, for the sleeves, it says to knit through round three, then round four, and (for the small size), to repeat found four, four more times. I read it as to repeat it four times total, but now that I’ve looked back (since my sleeve measure 14 inches instead of ~18) that it actually meant to repeat it four times plus the initial one, for five total. Is this correct? I just want to make sure before I undo my work!
Thank you!
Hello Caroline! Yes you correctly diagnosed your mistake. You would need to complete Row 4 a total of 5 times for each of the 14 repeats you’re doing. That would have put you back 14 rows which would have made the sleeve significantly shorter. Great job identifying the issue, and good luck finishing this classic sweater! -Alyson
I just did the same thing! Shoot!
I’m in love with this pattern but I am really (and I mean really!) bad at using double pointed needles. Is there a way that I could knit the sleeves using single pointed needles up until the circular needles & join up the seam somehow? Thanks so much
Hi Lauren.
I’m afraid, at this time, we only have this pattern available as it’s written here. But I’d be happy to give you some tips for this modification… You could cast on the same number of stitches as the pattern indicates, plus 2. These 2 will be for seaming. You’ll want to split up the ribbing so it falls on each eadge, that way when you seam, you’ll be seaming up the center of the ribbing. It’ll take some work, but it’s possible.
I really encourage you to try double pointed needles again though! They are magical. Have you seen out tutorial: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/25/double-pointed-needles/
I hope this information helps!
Thanks for writing in.
Let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
hey there! I recently started knitting this and I’m stuck just after the ribbing on the body of the sweater. I’m knitting it in a size XL and the following row i s what I’m stuck on.
Next Round (increase round): *K5, k1fb, [k8, k1fb] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) times, [k2, p1] two times, repeat from * to end of round. 186 (206, 226, 246, 266 stitches)
Am I wrong in reading that as from the * to the end of the first set of brackets should be repeated 12 times and the k2, p1 should follow after? Or should it be from the * until the brackets repeated a total of twelve times around the sweater?
Hi Ash.
I’m glad you wrote in. So just the [k8 k1fb] should be repeated 12 times. And then when you’re instructed to repeat from * it’s the K5, k1fb, [k8, k1fb] 12 times, [k2, p1] two times that all gets repeated.
Please don’t hesitate to write back in if you have any questions at all!
Laura
So the from * repeat is both k5 k1fb [k8 k1fb] 12 times? Or, k5 k1fb once followed by k8 k1fb 12 times?
Hi Sara,
Thanks for writing in! You’ll only repeat k8, k1fb 12 times. Anything in brackets in a knitting pattern is usually followed by directions on how many times you need to repeat that one particular set of instructions. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Hi,
I knit one sleeve and apparently did not add enough repeats between each increase round and the sleeve is a few inches too short. Is there a way to correct this without undoing all the work I’ve done so far? Thank you!
Hi Rebecca.
You could continue, working evenly until the sleeve is your desired length, but keep in mind that since all the shaping is done and you’ve increased up to your total number of stitches you may find that the sleeves are looser than you’d like lower down on the arm. I hate to suggest it… but it might be worth redoing.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
I would love to make this sweater, but I see that the yarn used is no longer available. What other yarns would you suggest?
Hi Vincenza.
Thanks for writing in! I would love to suggest some other light worsted/dk weight yarns that work up nicely at 5.5 stitches per inch…
Purl Soho’s Flax Down: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9658-Purl-Soho-Flax-Down
Woolfolk’s Far: https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/far.html
Koigu’s Kersti: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/870-Koigu-Wool-Designs-Kersti-Merino-Crepe-Solids
Anzula’s For Better or Worsted: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7913-Anzula-For-Better-or-Worsted
Please let us know if you have any questions about these suggestions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I tend to knit very small. I am using some left over yarn to see what I can use to get 5.5 stitches to the inch. With size 7 needles and Cascade superwash 128, I am getting 6 stitches per inch. I may be able to eke out 5.5 stitches per inch with a size 8 needle, but I am afraid if i go any bigger it will be too lose and gauze-y. Would Cascade 220 or Purl’s Mulberry Merino be too thick to get 5.5 stitches?
Hi Vincenza. Good to hear from you again!
Considering the fact that you’re getting 6 stitches to the inch with Cascade’s Superwash 128, then I think you’ll get a wonderful fabric at 5.5 stitches oper inch with Cascade’s 220. I think the Mulberry Merino is going to be too thin a yarn for you for this project. I would consider it too thin a yarn to begin with, but definitely if you knit very small, as you said.
Let us know how it goes!
Laura
I am ready to cast on, but I am worried that the ribbing is going to be too small around my hips. I’m wondering if I should cast on an even multiple of three that is less than the final number of stitches for the body but more than the original cast on to give myself a little more ‘wiggle’ room?
Hi Vincenza.
I would recommend either (1) working the ribbing in the same size needle as you plan to work the body, rather than with a smaller needle. This will keep the ribbing from coming in too much OR (2) using a smaller needle for the ribbing and casting on 186 (206, 226, 246, 266) stitches. The ribbing will still pull in a bit, but not drastically, plus if you option (2), you can omit the increase round after the ribbing!
Let me know what you think! And do not hesitate to write back in with any questions!!
Laura
Hi there,
Can you give me an idea of the total yardage required? I am trying to buy some yarn to get started but I am not sure how many balls/skeins to buy. Thanks very much!
Hi Eve.
Thanks for writing in!
We recommend 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins of Swans Island’s Worsted for this project. Swans Island’s Worsted is 250 yards per skeins, so that comes to approximately… 1000 (1250, 1250, 1500, 1500) yards. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions. Thanks!
Laura
I am starting the Sweatshirt sweater and am having
a problem with going from double pointed needle to circular needle.
A long time knitter just have drawn a blank. Help. Thank you.
Hello Ann!
Are you in the middle of the sleeves or about to join the sleeves to the body? Regardless of your place, all you should have to do is to begin knitting the stitches off the double pointed needles with the circular needles. That will transfer them one at a time directly onto the circular needles while you’re also completing a row. As you knit all the stitches on any individual double pointed needle, you can set it aside and start knitting off of the next one.
I hope this answers your question! Don’t hesitate to write in again with any other doubts! Happy knitting! -Alyson
Would you provide directions for a finished bust size of 54″?
I absolutely love the way this sweater looks, and if I can get the information for the bigger size, this is going to be the first sweater I am going to make! Thank you for posting this…
Hello Rhonda!
We wish that we had unlimited resources and technicians in order to create every size of all our patterns! Unfortunately at this time we’re not able to expand the size offerings of this pattern at this time. I would recommend calculating the changes needed in the pattern based on the finished garment measurements according to the gauge. For example, in this pattern, the gauge is 5 1/2 stitches per inch. If for instance the sleeve was meant to be 12″ in circumference, but I want to make it 18″, then I would multiply 6 x 5 1/2 = about 33 extra stitches needed for the sleeve.
I hope this helps and best of luck on your first sweater! -Alyson
hi, I’m a little confused with the making of the pouch. After slipping the extra circular needle through the 74 stitches, do you have to cast on a new ball of yarn? I’m just not exactly sure what I’m supposed to do. Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
Hello Shannon!
You’ve got it! Once you pick up all the stitches, you join a new strand of yarn and begin knitting. After you finish the pouch, you can weave in the ends to secure everything! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers.
I really don’t know what you mean here I’m lost could you please explain it to me
Hello Fatima!
I think you are talking about the section for the underarms, correct? What this technique does, is to place some stitches aside so that you can come back to them later in order to graft the underarm together for a more seamless look. Once you get to these directions, you’ll need to put the previous number of stitches on some scrap yarn or on a stitch holder while you continue knitting the rest of the round.
Please don’t hesitate to write again if this doesn’t clarify! Best of luck! -Alyson
Thank you for this beautiful pattern. My grandson will love it.
Hi!
Thanks for making such an easy to follow and gorgeous sweater. It’s my first and it’s coming along nicely. I’m at the part where I add the pouch. I’ve put my second larger size circular needle into the right leg of 94 stitches following the removable marker. I read a previous comment that indicated to start a new ball of yarn and cast on but I’m still not sure how to proceed. Do I cast on on a third needle? Or do I work the circular need that in the stitches as I would normally work them? If so how do create a new stitch?
Thanks so much for your patience! 🙂
I love how once you learn how to do something in knitting it just seems so easy but until then it seems so hard.
Hello Tasha!
It sounds like you are right on track! Once you insert the needle into the stitches, you’ll simply need to add a new ball of yarn to start knitting the stitches on your needle. You don’t need to cast on anything, you essentially created the new stitches already by picking them up from your previously knitted sweater body.
Knitting can definitely seem overwhelming until you give it a try! Please don’t hesitate to write in again should you still be confused! Thanks! -Alyson
I am wondering if you will ever update this pattern with a hood option?
Hello Oz!
We don’t have a pattern update in the works at the moment, but we will definitely keep this suggestion on file! Thanks for sharing your ideas! Happy knitting! -Alyson
Hello,
This is my first ever sweater and I am finishing up my first sleeve. When I put the stitches onto scrap yarn, should I start the other sleeve with a new ball of yarn? Or can I cut the yarn from the already made sleeve to start the other one?
Thank you
Hello Megan,
Either option is perfectly valid! Make sure to leave an adequate tail for weaving in if you decide to cut the strand from the first completed sleeve. Happy knitting! -Alyson
I’m stuck on this part of the pattern
I’m doing a small size but what should i do in this part?
FOR XS (SMALL, LARGE, XLARGE) SIZES ONLY
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row: [Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 74 (78, 92, 94) stitches: 10 for right and left front, 38 (40, 48, 50) for back, 13 (14, 17, 17) for each sleeve
FOR XS SIZE ONLY
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 66 total stitches: 10 for right and left front, 34 for back, 11 for each sleeve
FOR MEDIUM SIZE ONLY
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row: Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. 78 stitches: 10 for right and left front, 40 for back, 14 for each sleeve
Hello Isaac,
You’ll only need to do the first section that you included in your comment for the small size. The other two sections are only applicable to the sized that they specify. Hope this helps! Please feel free to write in again should you have more questions. Happy knitting! -Alyson
I may be crazy, but I think I’ve found a mistake in the XL size of this pattern. At the end of raglan shaping, according to the pattern I should have 102 stitches on my needles. Skipping ahead to the next directions for the XL pattern, Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve.
The only problem is that this pattern shows that I should have 90 stitches after completing this row, a decrease of 12 stitches. However, for the life of me I can’t figure out where those decreases are. I only see two double decreases, which gives me a four stitch decrease. I didn’t freak out, just decided to pick up a compensating number of stitches in the neckband to make it even. Instead of 39, I would pick up 40 to keep the pattern. However, I then realized that no matter what, this would leave me with an incorrect pattern stitch on the ribbing. The picked up stitches aside, by the time I follow a KPK ribbing from one side of the back of the neck to the other, the ribbing doesn’t line up with the raglan shaping. There aren’t enough – or maybe there are too many? – stitches to keep the pattern. The rest of the pattern is so seamless and smooth. I don’t want to have to add stitches to compensate. I’m quite frustrated and I just want to finish this sweater. I’ve been working on it for three months now. Can you weigh in with any corrections or just explain if I’ve missed something? I would really appreciate it!
Hi Alyssa.
I’m glad you wrote in and I am so incredibly sorry for our delayed response! You’ve probably already figured this out on your own at this point, but here is my response… I think maybe you might have overlooked one the the XL sections.
After you Repeat Rows 8 and 9 four more times and have 102 stitches, the next section you’ll work for size XL is just below the previous section and reads…
For XS (Small, Large, XLarge) Sizes Only
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row: [Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 74 (78, 92, 94) stitches: 10 for right and left front, 38 (40, 48, 50) for back, 13 (14, 17, 17) for each sleeve
At this point you’ll have 94 stitches having just decreased 8 stitches. Then you skip down to…
For XLarge Size Only
Repeat Row 8.
Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve
After this you’ll have 90 stitches, having worked two double decreases decreasing 4 stitches.
I do hope this helps! And again, I am sorry for the delayed response. I hope you’re enjoying your sweater or will be soon!
Laura
Just wanted to clarify the neckband portion of the pattern. Shouldn’t it be K2P1 to match the hem ribbing and the photos? Just finished my sweater and have to block it. Thanks for a great pattern.
Hi Melissa.
That’s a great question. The neckband pattern of (k1, p1, k1) has the same results as (k2, p1) because that first k1 and the last k1 end up next to one another when you work the repeat. We had to write it in a different format so that the ribs of the raglan would flow right into the ribs of the neckband pattern.
I’m thrilled to hear you enjoyed the pattern. Hope you (or the recipient) enjoys the sweater and your labors!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Aha, of course! Forgot about the repeat.
This pattern is awesome, so simple and classic. I made a few modifications, however. I made the XS size for myself, but i have crazy long arms (20 inches from wrist to underarm!) so i had to adjust the 16″ sleeve length. To add a little more detail i added a lace design from a scarf pattern i found on Ravelry (called the ‘best friend scarf’) to the back. It came out beautiful, and now i’m making one for my mom who requested one after she saw mine 🙂 oh, and i used Knit Picks cotton worsted because we have animal fiber allergies.
Hi, Katelyn!
Thank you for writing in! We are so glad that you enjoy this pattern and it’s awesome that you modified it to get a custom fit! Thank you so much for sharing your modifications with our community, I am certain that one of our readers will find it helpful.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
to make this in an XL out of the purl soho flax yarn, how many skeins would I need? thanks!
Hi, Karen!
Thank you for your question! To make the XL Sweatshirt Sweater with the Purl Soho Flax Down you would need 7-8 skeins. I recommend getting 8 just to be safe. If you don’t end up using the 8th skein you can always get store credit or exchange it as long it is in it’s original condition. You will need your receipt and the exchange/credit must happen within six months of purchase. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Happy knittng,
Kumeko
I am allergic to wool. Are there any non wool alternatives you could recomend?
Thanks
Andi
Hi, Andi!
Thank you for writing in! The only non-wool alternataive that we carry is Blue Sky Alpaca’s Worsted Cotton (https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/worsted-cotton.html). I recommend making a test swatch to make sure you get the correct gauge and to see if you like the drape/feel of the cotton. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
I just bought Woolfolk Sno to use on this project as you suggested, since you no longer carry Swans Island Worsted. However, will I have to change my needle size from size #6 and #7 needles to get an accurate gauge, since Sno calls for size #2 and #4 needles? Thank you!!
Oh Ama.
I am so incredibly sorry. I have made an error. I meant to send you a link to Woolfolk’s Far (https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/far.html), not Sno. Sno will be too thin for this project. I am going to reach out to our customer service team and see if they can get the correct yarn to you ASAP.
Please look for an email from them.
And again, I do apologize.
Laura
I have completed the sleeves (they look just like the picture), and completed the body up to joining the sleeves to the body. I don’t understand how to attach the sleeves, if I place the underarm sections together and knit I have a large hole. I know I’m doing something wrong, could you please help me understand this portion. I love the pattern.
Hi, Sandy!
Thank you so much for writing in! Sorry about the large delay in responding to your question! You are correct, there will be a large hole. At this point in the pattern you are simply placing those stitches aside so that you can come back to them later in order to graft the underarm together for a more seamless look. So, here you’ll need to put the previous number of stitches on some scrap yarn or on a stitch holder while you continue knitting the rest of the round. The directions for grafting these holes can be found at the very end of the pattern.
If you have further questions, please let us know! Again, thank you for your question!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I really love this pattern and i have finally decided to undertake my first sweater. Do you have any suggestions for modifications as I am a petite frame. As such, my measurements for the top half fit within the xSmall range however my hips are a size medium do you think this will be a big issues. I have tons of sweaters that are xSmalls and Smalls.
Hi Amanda.
Thanks for writing in! And no, I don’t this this will be a big issue at all. The ribbing at the bottom will shape to your body, contracting or stretching as needed. My only tip for modifications would be to perhaps work a round or two fewer than instructed between increase rounds on the sleeves and also maybe work an inch or so fewer from the bottom edge to the underarm. I would measure one of your favorite sweaters to see what dimension you’d prefer there.
We’re always here to help, so please don’t hesitate to reach back out. I hope you enjoy the pattern and your soon-to-be new sweater!
Laura
Hi,
Sorry but I don’t really understand the picking up the stitches in the neckline part. First I need to close them and then pick up? Wouldn’t it be easier to just leave it on a stitch holder? If you could explain this issue further I’d be grateful.
Adriane
Hi Adriane,
Thanks for writing in and our apologies for the greatly delayed response! Binding off and then picking up stitches helps to give the garment extra stability. It also gives a nice looking line along the neck that adds to the sweatshirt look of this garment. You can certainly try keeping the stitches on scrap yarn or a stitch holder but the look and feel will be different than our completed object. I hope that this explanation helps!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello,
This is a great pattern and I’m really excited to get started. However, I want to make it for someone as a surprise which makes measuring a little difficult. I was going to judge by size but wanted to know if the sizes given were in men’s or women’s? Thanks.
Hi Laura,
What a thoughtful gift! You could certainly knit this sweater for either a man or a woman. The sizes are more in line with women’s sizes but the measurements for the finished chest circumference are given. You could estimate which size to knit based on the recipients chest dimensions. You may also need to make the body and sleeves a little longer depending on the recipients measurements.
I hope that this information helps!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I have a similar question about making this pattern for a man. The 44″ chest would be correct, but the narrow hip of 37″ has me concerned that this is not going to work for an older man. Could you briefly elaborate on the intended fit at the hip and tell me if I could just ignore some of your shaping instructions to get a larger hip size? The industry standards shows a hip for a large man size being about 43″-45″.
The large sleeve size for men is correct, 19″, as indicated by industry standards sizing, as is the armhole depth.
This is really a super pattern for a man, something they can wear on a regular basis, so any input would be helpful. I am an experienced knitter so I can follow suggestions you might have.
Thank you
Hi Pat,
Thanks for writing in! The increases after the ribbing let the bottom of the body slouch over, creating a more “sweatshirt-like” feel. These can be easily omitted by casting on the total amount required after increasing on the original pattern. I think that you should start at a cast on of 246 for the 44″ chest and omit the increases. This would allow for a 44″ hip (or belly) measurement. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Thank you for answering so quickly! This makes a lot of sense! I appreciate your help accommodating an older man’s girth without changing the “feel” of the sweatshirt too much!
My best, Pat
Hi everybody,
I am completely lost with the section joining the sleeves…I need to say that I am French and though I read English rather well, I don’t understand where to begin (from the body or from one of the sleeve) with this 1st row:
K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers.
As well as the next one…
Somebody could help me ?
Thank you
Hello, Lise!
Thank you for writing in! Sorry for the delayed response! Great question. For the first round you are working the body of the sweater. You will attach the sleeves in the second round. When you attach the sleeves you will have holes in the underarm, you will seam these holes together at the very end.
I hope this answers your question, if not, please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Question on this, on the first row for joining the sleeves, when you put the underarm stitches in stitch holder, do you need to then start a new yarn ball?and then knit back and forth?im a bit confused…..
Hello Pilar,
Thank you for reaching out! You continue to knit it the round throughout this whole process. For round 1 when you place your stitches on hold you are placing your PREVIOUS stitches, this means that you working yarn is there for you to continue out your round and the same is true for round 2. Also in round 2 you are attaching your sleeves, which will keep you going in the round when you return to the stitches on hold.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if I can clarify anything for you!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Thank you very much Kumeko,
I finally guessed by looking at the picture of the body and sleeves together…in the JOIN THE SLEEVES part…
Hi,
I have been knitting for a few years now but have not tried anything with shaping. Would this sweater be a good beginning?
Thanks!
Hi Libby,
Thanks for writing in! This sweater has some more tricky elements if you have never knit a sweater before. The pocket and the neckline require some slightly more complex techniques but a an intermediate knitter should be able to confidently tackle these new techniques. There is raglan shaping for the arms but there is no shaping on the body. If you are looking to try body shaping, this might not be the best choice. If you are hoping to try raglan arm shaping, this one would work well. If you are looking for a sweater that has raglan shaping but that is a little bit more simple, you could try our Friendly Fair Isle Sweater. Either way, we are happy to continue to help and I hope that this information was helpful!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi,
This my first time making this sweater and I am not sure what this step means:
Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more times. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) stitches.
Do I have to repeat step 3, step 4 and repeat step 4 then repeat step 3 again. Do all of this 11 more times?
Hi Tanya,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! It makes a very nice sweater. After completing round 3 you will do round 4 six times in total. You will do round 3 once and round 4 six times 11 more times. I hope this makes sense! Please see this part of the pattern below. To make it more visible, I have inserted {} to make it easier to see what you will be doing 11 more times. After the ending bracket }, you will start at round 3 again.
{** Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two times, p1. (2 stitches increased)
Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1.
Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times.}
Best,
Adam
Hello,
In the Begin Raglan Shaping after the decreasing round. It says to repeat round 1. Is this one time or is this 3 times?
Hello Amanda,
Thanks for writing in! In total you will do round 1 three times. I hope this helps and good luck on this sweater!
Best,
Adam
I love this pattern! Is there instructions on how to add a hoodie to it?
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words. We do not have instructions to add a hoodie, but there are many references your could follow on Ravelry. Essentially a hood is like a giant sock heel — it’s that simple!
Best,
Adam
I am knitting the ribbing of the neckband and by knitting in the round I have a big hole in the middle of the xs sweater. Did i bind off/pick up the wrong stitches or is there a way to fix the hole after I finish ?
I understand this step now, I reread the steps and I don’t know why I picked it up wrong the first time
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for writing in. If the hole is at center front, then you have made a mistake in picking up the stitches. However, if the hole is around the area where you started shaping the neck, then this is actually normal. Small holes form at the beginning of the neck shaping because the fabric starts going in a different direction. To fix this you can tighten up the hole with some yarn and a tapestry needle after finishing the sweater. Good luck and let us know!
Best,
Adam
How do you think this sweater would do with a hood? Would it take a lot of modifications or just add one between the raglan shaping and the neckline? If you think it wouldn’t be too difficult, I may give it a try. (I am good at tearing out stitches, if it doesn’t work.) But since I’ve not actually knitting it yet and you have, I’ll trust your judgment.
Hi Mandy,
Thanks for writing in. I love when customers get creative. Though we have never done this sweater with a hood, it is entirely possible. Instead of picking up and ribbing in the round for the neck band, you will instead pick up the stitches and work back and fourth in short rows, much like a big sock heel. I am sure that there are some free hooded sweater patterns on Ravelry. Those would be a good basis for technique. Good luck and happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
Hello! I’m having a bit of trouble understanding this part of the pattern.
Round (decrease round): *P1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to five stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches decreased)
I’ve already done my first and second decrease, (ask, k2tog) from my understanding those are done on the front part of the sweater.
But since there are four stitch markers, knit to the next maker would be a decrease in the sleeve area, and then to the next marker would be in the back of the body?
Thanks!
Hi Lauren,
Thank you for writing in. The front body takes both a SSK and K2tog because these are left and right slanting decreases. You will also be decreasing on the sleeve portion too. Basically, you will decrease on both sides of each marker for a total of 8 stitches decreased. On a sweater it is essential to decrease so drastically at the yoke area because you are going from the width of your shoulders to the width of your neckline in just a matter of inches. I hope this helps.
Best,
Adam
I would like to make this for my granddaughters. Can I use a dk weight yarn so it will make a smaller size.
1 has a 25″ chest and the other has 24″ chest. They wear size 7 and 8 tops in children’s sizes. Or do you have a similar pattern for kids. Thank you.
Hello Elaine,
Thanks for contacting us! You can certainly go down in weight of yarn for this project. Just to be sure that you will get a good fitting sweater, I would make a gauge swatch in stockinette and see how many stitches per inch you are getting. If your granddaughter’s chest is 25″ around, then with ease you’ll want to hit about 27″ total. Multiply your stitches per inch from the swatch by 27″ and see if there is a cast on amount in the pattern that is similar. You’ll then follow the directions from this cast on. I hope this helps and that you’ll be able to make it!
Best,
Adam
Thank you for your quick response. Can you recommend a yarn?
Hello Elaine,
Sure, I’d be glad to recommend yarn! I suggest you use our Mulberry Merino for a wooly sweater with some sheen. If you’d like the sweater to be machine washable, then I would use Madelinetosh Merino DK or Anzula – Cricket. I hope you like something from this selection!
All the best,
Adam
In the beginning of the body section, there’s the instruction “Next Round: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.” After knitting to the first marker and completing the [p1, k2} x2, p1, do I simply knit to the second marker, or do I do the [p1, k2) x2, p1 just before the second marker? Maybe this is straightforward, but I wanted to double-check. Thanks!
Hello Jacquelyn,
Thanks for writing in! You will knit [p1,k1] 2x, p1 once and then continue knitting (not knitting and purling) until the next marker where you will repeat the [p1,k1] 2x, p1 again and then continue on knitting. I hope this is clear! Let me know if you need more help.
-Adam
Hi, Adam! It’s sort of clear – the part where I get tripped up is that the first row begins with knitting to the next marker… If I knit the first row to the next marker, do the purl/knit stitches and knit back to the original marker, do I then begin the second row with the purl/knit stitches?
Hi Jacquelyn,
Thanks for writing back. I’ll try to break this down better. Let’s use the smallest size as an example. The total amount of stitches after the ribbing is 186. From the end of round marker you will knit 86 stitches, place a marker of a different color and then [p1, k2] two times, p1. When you repeat this for the second time you will knit 86, place a marker of a different color and then [p1, k2] two times, p1. This should leave you at the end of round marker. In total you will have three markers: one as the end of round marker and two as the different color markers. I hope this is clearer! Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi Holly,
Thanks for writing us. I’d use the standard pass over bind off. This should do the trick!
Happy knitting,
Adam
Hello,dear.I have a problem with the end of sleeve and I knit the large size.The instruction says k2, palce the previous 11 stitches on the holder,remain 81 stitches.I’m not sure the prevous stitch including the k2 stitch,or the k2 stitch belong to the 81 stitches.Thank you.
Hi Ling,
Thanks for writing us! The two stitches that you knit belong to the 11 stitches you need to put on hold for the underarm. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Hi! I’m about to join the sleeves but this part of the pattern confused me:
“orient the sleeve’s on-hold underarm stitches so they are parallel and next to the body’s on-hold underarm stitches and knit the sleeve stitches (starting with the stitch to the right of the stitches on hold)”.
When I look at the photo it looks like you have to knit starting with the stitches to the left of the stitches on hold, and I can’t imagine how it would work to try to knit into the right needle of the sleeve. Am I misunderstanding the directions? Wouldn’t you have to knit the sleeve onto the main needle by using the right needle of the main one and the left needle of the sleeve? Thanks!
Hi Maia,
Thanks for the question! First you’ll want to orient your on hold stitches parallel to each other and hold everything together with your sleeve closest to yourself. From this angle, your sleeve needle closest to your right-hand body needle becomes your left-hand needle and your right-hand body needle continues to be your right-hand needle. Using your right-hand body needle, knit the stitches from your sleeve needle all the way across the sleeve’s live stitches. I hope this clears things up!
Best,
Adam
Hi Adam, yes I think so! That’s how I thought it might work. I’ll give it a try. Thanks for taking the time to respond!
Hi Virginie,
Thanks for the lovely and kind comment! I’m so glad you are making this for your daughter; I am sure she’ll love it! Unfortunately we cannot accept translations, but we do think it’s great that you took the time out to translate this for yourself. Best of luck with the pattern and please do not hesitate to write in with any questions!
Best of luck!
-Adam
I am trying to decide between the small and the medium size and I think maybe the hip circumference measures are wrong? The small has 31 inches. Maybe this should be 41? Or is this maybe the waist measure?
Thanks for clarifying!
Hi Brigit,
Thanks for writing in! The hip is supposed to be 31″ for the small size. Since the bottom edge is a rib, the sweater naturally cinches in but also stretches to hug the body. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Hello,
I’m unclear on the finished length from sleeve cuff to underarm. Is this the length from the cast-on edge of the cuff or where the cuff ends?
Thank you,
David
Hi David,
Thanks for the question. The finished sleeve length is from the very tip of the cuff (including the ribbing) to the underarm stitches. Hope this helps!
-Adam
I am confused about joining the sleeves. On Round 2, I knitted to the first stitch holder and then knitted the 70 stitches on the sleeve stitch holder. I then continued to knit to the next stitch holder and then knitted the 70 stitches of the second sleeve. This leaves me with 7 stitches on a stitch holder for the body and 7 stitches on a stitch holder for the sleeve. Is this correct?
Thank you.
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you did everything correct! Those stitches still remaining will form the underarm and are connected later in the pattern!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
I am having difficulty picking up the stitches for the pouch. Can’t seem to keep them straight. Is there an easier way?
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to offer a suggestion to help! One thing that I like to do is thread a piece of contrast yarn on a darning needle and run it through all of the stitches that I will be picking up and then pick them up with my knitting needle. This lets me see if i got all of the stitches in a straight line and lets me correct any issues before actually picking up the stitches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
My 14 year old granddaughter selected a bulky yarn for me to use to knit this sweater. I was going to make it in an XL with shorter sleeves because she wants it BIG (you know about teens). Can you help me with suggestions for converting the pattern?
Thx much, Carol
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing us! Unfortunately we cannot customize a pattern over the comments section. I suggest doing a gauge swatch to calculate your stitches and rows per inch and multiplying your stitches per inch by your desired chest measurement. This number will serve as a rough estimate of how many stitches you’ll have around the chest. If you notice, the cast on at the bottom edge is less than the chest stitch count and you’ll want to take this in to account when casting on your project. Based on your chest stitch count, pick the size that correlates closest to yours and follow the pattern as is, modifying at points where needed. If your chest stitch count doesn’t come close to any of the listed cast ons, you’ll definitely have to improvise a little.
All the best,
Adam
Good afternoon, thank you so much for the pattern, but I stuck right after the start of the section where one has to
Continue Raglan and Shape Crew Neck. It says:
You will no longer be working in the round but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k22 (24, 26, 28, 30), turn work so that wrong side (the inside of the sweater) is facing you.
I do not know how to turn my work so that the yarn was not on the left needle. I definitely have to knit form the yarn attached to the stitches on my right needle, don’t I? I turned and it is now attached to the stitches on my left needle.
If so, what have I done wrong?
Hi Elena,
Thanks for writing in! I can see how this could be confusing. When you turn your work, you yarn will be attached to the stitches on your left hand needle. You will be working the first stitch using the attached yarn (this may feel a little awkward) and then continue on as normal. You are doing exactly as you should and after completing that first stitch, you should be able to move on as you normally would!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Is there a way to print your patterns without all the comments and side bar ads. I love the patterns but hate wasting all the paper!
Hi Marilyn,
Thanks for your comment! There is a little button on right side of the page that says “print”. Use that instead of printing from your computer’s tool bar.
I hope this helps!
Carly
At the end of the sleeves
I didn’t understand which 11 stitches put on holder.
Please reply ASAP. I am stuck at this point
At the end of sleeve for large pattern
K2 place 11 stitches on stitch holder
But in picture there are 7 stitches on holder.
Please explain.
Hi Vandana,
The for the size that you are knitting you would knit 2 stitches at the beginning of the round then slip the previous 11 stitches (including the 2 you just knit) on to a piece of scrap yarn or stitch holders.
There are 7 stitches on the holder in the photograph because the sample is knit in a size small.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Thank you for reply.
Generally round end with P1K2P1k2p1
At this point I was stuck.
So after m1R should I put it on holder including 7 stitches.
And before that should I knit that 7 stitches.
Hi Vandana,
Thanks for getting back in touch! For the size that you are knitting, you will knit 2 stitches, then place those 2 stitches and the 7 before it and a stitch holder. These 7 stitches will be the last 7 stitches of the previous round which will be the last p1, k2, p1, k2, p1.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi! Thank you for making it comfortable for knitters to ask questions without feeling stupid. Much appreciated. I’ve finished repeating Round 4 five times (XS). When repeating from ** eleven times does that include repeating rounds 3 and 4, and repeat round 4 five times and do all of that eleven times? Thank you. I’m going to love this sweatshirt sweater
Hi Mary Catherine,
Thank you so much for your kind words! We hope that we can be a comfortable resource for questions!
I think that I can clear things up! In this section of the pattern you will repeat rounds 3 and 4 eleven times for the size that you are knitting.
I hope that this answers your question and don’t hesitate to get back in touch!
Cassy
This is a beautiful sweater and very much my style! Could you tell me the required yardage amounts for this sweater? I plan on making the Large.
Thank you!
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! This lovely sweater uses approximately 1000 (1250, 1250, 1500, 1500) yards.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you!!
Does eliminating the pouch add any width to the sweater? Also, for a 36″ bust would you suggest the small size? I don’t want it baggy, but I don’t want it snug either. ;). This will be my first sweater. Thanks
Hi Pat,
I don’t believe eliminating the pouch will add width to the sweater. If you are a 36 I would recommend the small size.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Hello, I am working on making a modified version of this sweater where I am adding shaping and cables. I am working out these modifications for the pattern myself, but I would also like to change the neck shaping to be a turtle neck and I am less sure how to do this. It is my first sweater so I do not want to mess up the shoulder and neck shaping because I don’t know what I am doing. My thought is that I could wing it a little by continuing the decreases up to the point I want to start the neck and then do the reverse ribbing pattern until it is long enough to fold over and cast off. Does this seem like a reasonable way to achieve this or do you have a better suggestion? I also already worked my sleeves in the small size but will be working the shoulders and neck in the extra small size so I will be starting with 70 stitches for each sleeve and 86 stitches for the front and back if that makes a difference. I appreciate any feedback or advice you could offer. I love the pattern, just also like my sweaters tight and love cable patterns.
Hi Peyton,
Thanks for writing in! What a amazing project! It is quite a lot of work to modify a pattern! You could certainly try out a turtleneck. In theory you could just continue the neck band to make it into a turtle neck. The only thing you might have to adjust is adding in a couple of decreases to make the neck less wide. You will have to do a bit of experimenting, but it shouldn’t be to complicated.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello!
I fell in love with this pattern and decided to make it my first attempt at a sweater…a very nervous attempt. I do have a couple questions:
1. I am using Madelinetosh Tosh DK and came up with a gauge of 5 st per inch. Is this off enough to warrant going down a needle size?
2. For the sizing I need to use the large for the chest, xl for the hip and small for the length from the shoulder to underarm and length from sleeve cuff to underarm. Can I cast on the small size for the sleeves since I do seem to have smaller wrists/arms? Or should I use a larger size and use needles that are a couple sizes smaller? If I do use the small size will that hinder how the sleeves will attach?
Thank you for any help you can offer!
Regards,
Meko
Hi Meko,
Thanks for writing in! When knitting garments, gauge is rather critical! Half a stitch per inch might not seem like a lot but over the whole of s sweater, it can equal several inches. I would suggest swatching again on smaller needles.
As to the size that you will be knitting, generally, our patterns are sized based on your bust measurement (that is the measurement of the fullest part of your bust). For this pattern, you should add about 3 inches to this measurement and choose the closest size. Given that you will add a few inches to your bust measurement, the hip size of the large might work for you. Combining sizes could be quite a challenge! You can easily change the length of the arms or increase more frequently to get from a smaller size wrist to match the number of stitches that you will need when you connect the sleeves. However, all of this does add complication and may require you to do a fair bit of reworking of the pattern. I would not recommend going down needle sizes on the arms from the body as it will change the fabric fairly dramatically.
Best,
Cassy
Hello
I’d like to make this for a 4 year old boy.
Do you have a smaller pattern, or suggestions on
how to adjust this one, for a smaller fit.
thanks, cheers.
Hi Lee,
Unfortunately, we don’t have this pattern written in a size that would fit a 4 year old. I will be sure to pass along your request!
Best,
Carly
thanks, carly
have a good christmas
Hi, this is my first attempt at a sweater. My sleeve cuffs do not look like ribbing and I suspect because I am using magic loop. That said, I ripped it out and followed another tutorial, but now that cuff is done I am a little worried I will not get that subtle detail up the sleev.e. In round 2 what is pm? Also should I be modifying for magic loop method? K2, p1 does not give me the right look. Thanks !
Hello Jackie,
Thank you for reaching out! In row 2 when it says pm it simply means place marker- just be sure to place a marker that is a different color than your end of round marker so that you know which is which.
As far as magic loop, this technique should not disrupt anything in the pattern. I would maybe practice a few rows before jumping into the pattern. K2 p1 should come out as a rib- how specifically is your knitting coming out?
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am making this sweater in size M. the following directions under YOKE, JOIN THE SLEEVES, Round 1: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder (removing marker),
These directions say to place 9 sts on a holder. Should it be 7 sts for size M ??
Hello Ann,
Thank you for reaching out! For the size M you will place the previous 9 sts on a stitch holder.
I hope this clears things up and please let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I would like to use Malabrigo merino worsted wt or Malagrigo DK on this pattern. Would the DK wt be a better choice? Am thinking that worsted wt might be too big… thanks for your help.
Hi Chava,
Thanks for writing in! Based on gauge, I think that Malabrigo Worsted might be a bit heavy for this sweater! You will want to look for a Light Worsted/DK with a gauge of 5 1/2 stitches per inch. For the most part, it seems like Malabrigo’s DK options will work better for this sweater!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Is there anyway to make this into an off the shoulder neckline?
How would I be able to do that?
Lovely pattern!
Hi Tanya,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly try converting this sweater into an off the shoulder neckline but we are unable to customize patterns at this time. You can start by knitting fewer decreases in the raglan shaping section. You will want to try it on as you go. You can then begin the neck ribbing once you are at a point that you like.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks for posting this pattern. I tackled it as my first sweater and it turned out great! Your instructions are always very easy to follow. Thanks and looking forward to knitting more sweaters!
I am knitting this sweater and am up to joining the sleeves. I am just a bit confused. Pattern says to align the sleeves on-hold stitches with the body on-hold stitches, which I have done, then knit the sleeve stitches- do the body on-hold stitches just remain on hold or are the two on-hold stitches knitted together? Thank you- will keep trying.
Hi Sue,
Thanks for reaching out! You will be leaving both the small amount of sleeve stitches that are on a holder and the body stitches that are on a holder alone and knitting the rest of the sleeve stitches. Our Joining Sleeves to Body tutorial should be quite helpful for this step!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you SO much for posting this video tutorial on how to join the sleeves! I got to this step and was having a difficult time visualizing what was supposed to happen here. If I can suggest, it would be helpful to include this link to the video in the pattern. I’m knitting my first raglan sweater (in Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, which is lovely!), and it has been really fun. Thanks for the wonderful pattern and yarn!
Hi Jill,
Thanks so much for the kind words – I’m so glad the video was helpful! I’ll certainly pass your suggestion to add a link to the video along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
K1, p1, [k2, p1] What does this mean? Do I do the K1,p2 or the k2,p1?
Hi Kylie,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help. In the pattern when it states K1, p1, [k2, p1] two times, you will k1, p1 and then repeat the k2, p1 two times. Written out in long form, this would be k1, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I love this sweater but I’m allergic to wool. Do you have a suggestion of a non-wool yarn that might work for this?
Hello Allison,
Thank you for reaching out! I think this sweater would be lovely in either our Understory yarn which is 50% Baby Alpaca, 25% Baby Yak, 25% Silk, or Jade Sapphire’s 6ply Cashmere. I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for a free pattern! It looks wonderful. I noticed on Ravelry that there is a “pattern errata” available. However, when I click on that link, it says unavailable. I downloaded the free pattern in the beginning of December, is that the correct pattern?
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for writing in! The pattern that you have should be the most up to date version! The last errata found was in 2014 and we then corrected the pattern on the page. You can always check our errata page here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knit/errata/#the-sweatshirt-sweater We try to always include the date that the errata was added so that you can know if you have the most up to date pattern.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello there,
I wanted to clarify the section under Begin Raglan shaping part. After the first decrease round I can see from a previous thread that in total you repeat round 1 three times. In the next section:
‘Repeat last two rounds sixteen (19, 21, 23, 25) more times. 158 (172, 180, 194, 206) total stitches: 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) stitches for front and back, 27 (30, 30, 33, 35) stitches for each sleeve’
Do you do the decrease round and then repeat round 1 three times again or just once after each subsequent decrease round?
Many thanks,
Yuka
Hello Yuka,
Thank you for reaching out! In this section of the pattern you repeat row 1 once after each decrease row.
I hope this clears things up and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, would you have any advice on how to make a short sleeved version of this? 🙂
Hello Vivi,
Thank you for reaching out! It might take some experimenting, but it should be pretty easy to do. I would just decide how long you want your sleeve and then how wide your sleeve needs to be at that point. It could also be nice to put a bit of ribbing on the edges of your sleeves.
Good luck and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi!
This is my first adult sweater, and I’m excited to be embarking on this challenge!
I’m doing size small, and I finished the first sleeve, but when I try it on, it seems a little short. Should I…
A) redo it, repeating round 4 more times between increases? (If so, how many more times should I repeat round 4 between increases if I want to add an inch or two?)
or
B) add an inch or two of round 4 at the “armpit/shoulder” end of the sleeve after the final increase round I did according to the pattern? (My instinct is that this may look strange…)
Thanks in advance!
Polly
Hello Polly,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations on diving into your first adult sweater! Your knitters instincts are correct- I would do option A. Let us know how it goes and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, I love this pattern! I would love to make this in a child size. Is it possible to substitute with fingering yarn and smaller needles to make a smaller size?
Hi Felicia!
Thanks for your question! Unfortunately we don’t have this sweater in a children’s size. I would recommend using a different pattern written for kids to be sure the proportions are correct and you’re happy with the finished garment!
Best,
Carly
Hi!
I’ve never knitted a sweater because I am afraid it won’t fit after all the hard work. But I love this pattern! My “fit” concern is that I am a 36-37 on top but a 41-42 at the hips. I don’t want it to be too tight at the hips…or too baggy at the breast. What do you recommend?
Thanks!
Diane
Hi Diane,
Thanks for reaching out! This can certainly be a challenge but the great thing about knitting is that you can alter patterns to work best for you! It will certainly take a bit of trial and error to figure out how best to do so, but if you are up for a challenge, you can give it a go! You can certainly cast on for a larger size on the bottom and then decrease on the sides down to your chest size. You will want to space out the decreases to make sense for your body shape! In this case, you will want to cast on the sleeves for the chest size that you will be knitting.
Also be sure to note the intended ease! For this sweater, we recommend about 3 1/2 inches of positive ease. That is to say that if the measurement around the fullest part of your chest is 37 inches, you would add 3 1/2 inches to get 40 1/2 inches and choose the nearest size. Here you would choose the medium.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi!
I love this pattern and am trying to find a suitable yarn for it. I know you had recomended the koigu, or cashmere yarns, but what would you think of the Flax Down, Far, or cashmere merino blend? I am looking for something super soft so that I could wear the sweater without long sleeves underneath it, but also something moderately priced (the 6 ply cashmere is more than I want to spend). I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Thanks!
Hello Gretchen,
Thank you for reaching out! All of these options will work beautifully and will all be very soft.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
This sweater is great – i am in the midst and loving it. I do have a question. I am making an XL with the pouch. It says to knit to 12 inches from cast on edge and then make the pouch. But as i am reading ahead, it has me adding the sleeves at 14 inches from CO edge and i wanted to confirm – my sense is there should be more than two inches from the top of pouch to underarm. thanks for clarifying.
karen
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! You are reading the pattern correctly – since the body length is the same for all sizes, there are only two inches from the top of the pouch to the underarms. This is not that far off from the other sizes though, as even the extra small has only 4 inches from the top of the pouch to the underarms. If you would like to change this and you have enough extra yarn, the easiest fix would be to make the body of the sweater longer before joining the sleeves.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am making this sweater in a Medium with the pouch. I am currently working the body portion prior to starting the pouch. The instructions say to knit until the body piece measures 10 1/2 inches from the bottom cast on edge, which I assume is the same point at which the pouch will be grafted on to the main body. But reading ahead, the pouch instructions seem to imply I will be only knitting 44 rows from the start of the pouch until the top and the subsequent grafting to the main body. I am assuming that the length/number of rows of the pouch (7 + inches/44 rows) should match those of the main body from the removable stitch marker. Is this correct? If I’m thinking this through correctly, the main body will be longer than the pouch. FYI… I am a very loose knitter… Using US #5 needles to achieve correct gauge… 7 rows = 1 inch. I must have this wrong, but hoping you can clarify when you have a chance to reply. Many thanks in advance.
Hello Jennifer,
Thank you for reaching out! The removable stitch maker should be placed 3 1/4 from your cast on edge, this is where your pouch will be grafted. This means that once you have knit until the body measures 10 /1/2 inches from the cast on edge, you will be 7 1/4 from where you will be grafting on your pouch.
I hope this clears things up for you and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, great to see so many other beginners getting guidance here. I am just starting the pouch (after 16 attempts to get the body right, so I don’t want to mess up!!).
I have picked up my 94 stitches, now I need to knit row 1 – do I start at the left or right end of the circular needle to be on the right side? Also, do I use the circular needle to knit back and forth?
Thanks for your guidance!
Hi Louize,
Thanks for writing in, we love seeing so many knitters choosing our Sweatshirt Sweater for their first project! Now that you have the stitches picked up, with the right side of the sweater facing you, you will start knitting at the right needle tip, and you are correct that you will be knitting back and forth in rows despite being on a circular needle.
I hope that helps and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi there, I’m working on the body of an XS and just want to make sure I understand how the pattern works.
Here are the instructions that I’m confused about:
Next Round: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
So, am I doing a [p1k2] two times, p1 – before or after my beginning of row marker? I get that I do it after the marker in the middle of the row, but the repeating instruction is a little weird. If read literally, it almost makes it seem like you only do the [p1k2] two times, p1 once. Please help? Thank you!
Hi Miriah,
I think I can help! You will end up with two columns of ribbing, one on each “side seam” of the sweater. On the previous round you placed two markers in addition to the beginning of row marker, so when you work this row, you will knit to the first additional marker, work your 7 ribbing stitches, and then repeat by knitting to the next additional marker and working 7 ribbing stitches, which will take you back to the beginning of round marker.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
The link for the Kitchener Stitch doesn’t seem to be working. I click on the pattern above and it says that what I am looking for is not found. Help! Thanks,
Susanna
Hi Susanna,
Thanks for reaching out! It looks like you found an old link we missed when we updated our website! We do still have the Kitchener Stitch tutorial available here, and we’ll get that link fixed as soon as possible!
Best,
Julianna
I was wondering if Good Wool would be a good yarn to use. I did a swatch and I get 5 1/2 stitches per inch after blocking.
Thanks!
Hello Charlotte,
Thanks for reaching out- It sounds like you are right on gauge! I think this sweater will be lovely in Good Wool.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you good
Please can you explain the abbreviations k1fb and M1L and M1R
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for writing in! Fortunately we have tutorials for all of these increases! K1FB or KFB stands for Knit Front and Back, and M1L and M1R stand for Make One Left and Right.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Is the pouch meant to put things in or just a place you can put your hands in? In other words, can I keep my cell phone and small wallet in it without it stretching out the pouch? Thanks.
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! I think this mostly depends on the yarn you use and how tightly it knits up at the correct gauge. If you choose a yarn that is more of a light worsted weight, such as Flax Down, or a yarn with minimal stretch, such as Understory, your pocket should stretch out much less over time, though I still wouldn’t recommend carrying anything too heavy in it. Although you would still be able to get gauge in a slightly thinner yarn, such as Koigu Kersti, the looser knit fabric would not be as supportive for the pocket.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I want to make this sweater, but the yarn in the pattern is discontinued. I was wondering how many yards the Swan’s Island Worsted yarn used to be, or how many yards the medium size uses, just so I don’t accidentally order less yarn than I need.
Thanks.
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! This lovely sweater uses approximately 1000 (1250, 1250, 1500, 1500) yards.
Happy knitting!
Marilla
Thank you for this beautiful pattern, like one of the other commenters, I knit the first sleeve and it seems short. Do you have the length in inches of what it should be when finished? I deduced from the picture about 15.5” but wanted to double check. Thank you!
Hello Rachel,
Thank your for reaching out! Depending on which size you are knitting your finished Length from Sleeve Cuff to Underarm should be 16 (17, 19, 19 1/2, 20 1/2) inches.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Really excited because I am almost finished, but now I am stuck. On the page (of instructions) just before one starts on the neckband instructions are give for each particular size (I am doing Medium). I just completed Rows 8 and 9, 4 times. Stitches remaining are exactly as listed: 12 total for Front and Back, so 6 on each side. Now I move down to the instructions for Medium: Repeat Row 8, Done. Then: Next Row: ”Knit to 6 stitches before Marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm. By my count that would have to mean there are 12 stitches before the marker on the Right Front of the Sweater. Which would also mean there were a total of 24 stitches for the Front and Back and the instructions just said above that, that there were 12 total. My count of 84 stitches for the entire row is spot on. There again, if there were 12 stitches per side the total row count would be off.
Thanks for clearing this up for me.
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that I can help! At this point in the pattern (after repeating Row 8 again), you will have a total of 84 stitches, 12 stitches total for the front, 44 stitches for the back and 14 stitches for each sleeve. This means that the back and front will have different stitch counts!
I hope that this clears things up and please do not hesitate to ask any further questions!
Cassy
Hello! I have finally found a sweater that I love enough to make for myself….thank you for creating this pattern. I am stuck at this same point. I am making the medium sweater and have already repeated round 8. The instructions for the next row say “knit to 6 stitches before marker,” however there are only 6 stitches before the first marker. Have I done something wrong?
Hello Allison,
Thank you for reaching out! Before repeating row 8 under “FOR MEDIUM SIZE ONLY” your round should look like this – 84 total stitches: 12 total for the front, 44 for back, 14 for each sleeve. What does you round look like? Is it possible that you did an extra decrease round at some point?
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I would love to make a sweater like this for my husband. Do you think this pattern would work for a man? I was thinking of making it a large.
Hi Ames,
Thanks for reaching out! I do think think this is a great unisex sweater, since it doesn’t have any shaping or fitted portions. I would recommend measuring your husband’s chest circumference and choosing a size that is 4 to 8 inches larger, depending on how loose your husband likes his sweaters to fit. You may also want to adjust the length of the body and sleeves depending on his height – if you aren’t sure, you could measure a sweater that he already owns and likes the fit of to see how it compares to our given measurements in the Sizes section of the pattern.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
This is my first sweater and so far I’m loving it! However, I’ve hit a snag. After row 8 in the “continue raglan” section it breaks down into instructions for each size “only.” I’m making a size small and I don’t see any instructions for a “small size only.” Can you explain to me what I’m missing, or which pattern directions I should follow here? I’ve come so far and I don’t want to mess this up! Thanks.
Hello Dena,
Thanks for reaching out and congratulations on being almost done with your first sweater! For the size small, after you have completed the section under ” FOR XS (SMALL, LARGE, XLARGE) SIZES ONLY” you will just continue onto the neckband.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi…I’m new to knitting and I’ll love to do this seweater… Do you think is one for a benniner?
So far I’ve done a couple hats, a couple cowls, and some sleepers. And at the moment I’m working on a snappy hat that involves cables?
Thank you,
Hello Paola,
Thank you for reaching out! Considering your snappy hat I would say you are more than ready for this sweater!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi, lovely looking sweeter but I am wondering if the measurements for the finished hip circumference are correct – I would have expected them to be at least as much as the finished breast measurements.
Hi Anne-Marie,
Thanks for writing in! The hip measurement is smaller than the chest measurement because the ribbing pulls in quite a bit more than the stockinette stitch. However, it’s also quite stretchy, so I would suggest choosing a size based on the bust measurements.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello! I’m making a size L and wanted to add a unicorn chart to the front center chest area: https://kbsalazar.files.wordpress.com/Wed,/11/alex_unicorn.jpg
Do you have any recommendations for how to place it assuming that each square is a st? (I don’t know if there is enough space on the sweater for it to be 1square = 2×2 st.)
Any insight you could offer I’d appreciate!
Hi Megan,
Thanks for reaching out! It might be difficult to add this design to the sweater as you are knitting it because the sweater is knit in the round. You will not be able to work the design as stranded knitting, and because many of the color repeat sections are short, it will also be challenging to use an intarsia method. Instead, I would suggest embroidering the design after the fact using Duplicate Stitch. Not only will it be easier than trying to work a hybrid of stranded and intarsia knitting, you will be able to mark out the placement on the finished sweater to make sure it is centered to your liking.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Awesome, thanks! I had never heard of this technique.
I downloaded the pattern from Ravelry and was very pleased until I noticed Row 3 of the sleeves was missing. Are you aware that the pattern is still incorrect? I love the pattern, and was frustrated because I couldn’t ask where row 3 was on Ravelry. I finally clicked on your website.
Hi Eileen,
I’m sorry to hear that you had difficulties with our pattern! We do not actually have it available to download through Ravelry and it is only available here on our website, so I’m not sure how Row 3 of the sleeves disappeared! If you would like to download a new copy here, you can use our print function to do so. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%. You can then print or save the resulting PDF.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello, I love the look of this sweater, and have started making it, however I am a bit confused. This is a 2 part question. After the 2 1/4″ bottom ribbing, the next line is where I’m stuck:
“Next Round (increase round): *K5, k1fb, [k8, k1fb] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) times, [k2, p1] two times, repeat from * to end of round. 186 (206, 226, 246, 266 stitches)”
Part 1:
It’s the “k1fb” specifically. Can you tell me what that means, and how does it increase stitches in that line? It looks like there is an increase of 22 stitches for the size Large, from 204 to 226 stitches.
Part 2:
How does the [k2,p1] fit into the pattern, I thought it was all stockinette stitch after the 2 1/4″ ribbing.
I hope you can clear this up for me, because I really love the pattern and want to complete it.
Thank you
Hi Marcela,
Thanks for reaching out! A k1fb or kfb is a type of increase called Knit Front and Back and it adds one stitch each time it is worked, which is how you add so many stitches in that round. These increases are worked in the final row of ribbing because it disguises the increases so they won’t stand out from the regular fabric of the sweater, and after this round, you will switch to larger needles and work the rest of the sweater in stockinette stitch.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
The measurements at the beginning say from cuff to underarm is 17″ for a small, so is that the length the finished sleeve should be? I’ve finished the repeat of rounds 3 and 4 but my sleeve is only 15″, so do I need to continue knitting to get to 17″? Thank you!
Hi Paige,
Thanks for reaching out! That is correct, you can now knit the sleeve without increasing until it is 17 inches or your desired length to the underarm.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello!
This might be a silly question but I’m quite new to knitting. For the gauge, is it 5 1/2 stitches per inch when measuring the stitches horizontally (along the same row), or is it 5 1/2 stitches per inch when measuring vertically (so basically 5 1/2 rows per inch)? Or is it 5 1/2 stitches for both directions?
I really want my finished sweater to fit right!
Hi Jessie,
Thanks for reaching out! When measuring your gauge, there are two possible measurements, the stitches per inch (which is measured horizontally) and rows per inch (which is measured vertically). For this pattern, we only have you check the stitches per inch because the rows per inch is much less important to the fit of the sweater, so no need to measure your rows!
Best of luck and I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello. This is my first time knitting a sweater and I’ve knit everything up to the part where you add that sleeves. I’m having a hard time understanding that part.
Hi Adriana,
Thanks for reaching out! I assure you that you are not the only one who is confused by this step! I think our tutorial on Joining Sleeves to Body should answer all of your questions!
Best,
Julianna
I would love to make this jumper but as I’m British I don’t understand American wool ply. Could you explain whether I need to buy double knit or aran wool?
I would prefer not to guess.
Thank you for your help.
Hello Elaine,
Thank you for reaching out! This project will work best with a double knit yarn. I would of course knit up a gauge swatch before jumping in.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Marilla
Thank you for your info.
Happy knitting
Elaine
I’m a little confused with the directions for the raglan and crew neck shaping when you get to the separate directions for each size.
It starts out with “FOR XS (SMALL, LARGE, XLARGE) SIZES ONLY” and then follows with each of the sizes individually.
Does that mean every size except M should do the first part and the follow with the second set of specific size directions?
Thank you in advance. I love the pattern and appreciate your offering it to all!
Hi Sheri,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, it sounds like you have got it! For instance, if you are knitting the extra small, you will follow the “FOR XS (SMALL, LARGE, XLARGE) SIZES ONLY” instructions followed by the “FOR XS SIZE ONLY” step, but for the medium, you will only follow the “FOR MEDIUM SIZE ONLY” instructions.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Making size Large. I have adjusted sleeve to less bulky 60 stitches, so front/back 112, sleeve 60, total 344 stitches. I have joined sleeves, ready to Begin Raglan Shaping. Using green markers, pink for “new end of round,” where left sleeve joins front. Row 1, 32 stitches then turn. Row 2, I am lost. Repeating sequences twice means stitch count is way off. Where am I to end up ??? “End of row” seems to be back to those 8 stitches that were bound off at beginning. What am I doing wrong? Thank you in advance. I am very frustrated!
Hello Jean,
Thanks for reaching out! You are not turning your work at the end of row 1, burt rather continueing to knit in the round to add your next sleeve. I think this is correct. What you want to accomplish in rows 1 and 2 is to get your stitch markers in place and line up you stitches that are on hold for your under arms. In the beginning of Row 2 you “place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder (removing marker)” this means you are lining up these stitches with your stitches on hole on the body and that your new beginning of your round will be at the start of the next sleeve.
I hope this makes sense and please let us know if you continue to have any questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I have attached the sleeves. I am at the point “you will no longer be working in the round but back and forth.” See previous quarry about Row 2. Where should the bound off stitches be in Row 2 and Row 3 in the body of the sweater? Still baffled! Thanks!
Hello Jean,
Sorry for the confusion! I think you might have missed a section in the pattern. Are you currently working the “CONTINUE RAGLAN AND SHAPE CREW NECK” ? If so you should be at the neck and past most of the raglan, with your stitches on hold long gone. When you join your sleeves your stitches on hold become your your left and right underarm, with each body and arm stitches on hold running parallel to one another. Once you join your sleeves your stitches on hold are no longer part of your row. At the very end you will go back and kitchener stitch these stitches together to close up the holes they create.
I hope this makes sense and let me know if it doesn’t!
Best,
Marilla
Hello! I am very interested in this project and w3 t through sleeves very satisfactorily? , however am stuck on the increase round of the body. I am making size small so body casted on 186 so should have 206 stitches and however have 3 stitches unaccounted for. What am I doing wrong? I read the [k8k1fb] 9 with k2p1 two times repeat. But have 3 stitches unaccounted for. I have redone this a few times What am I doing wrong!?
Happy to say that I figured out my error. I was not k5k1fb before the k9
Would this project work in the cotton pure? I noticed in one comment the small would take 1250 yards, it looks like the gauge is about the same with the cotton pure, except the needle size ranges from 4-6. Would the cotton pure work on size 6 needle with 5 skeins? I made this sweater in the wool, learned a lot and wool like to knit a cotton sweater. Thank you for your help.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately Cotton Pure is a bit too light weight for this sweater – it is a sport weight yarn, which is a fair bit thinner than the worsted yarn we used for the Sweatshirt Sweater. Although you will have to knit a gauge swatch to make sure it will work, I would suggest using Sweetgrass held double for a cotton version of this sweater, or you might want to consider our Everyday Linen Raglan if you would like to knit a similar sweater out of Cotton Pure!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
The neck ribbing in the picture appears to be the same k2, p1 rib as the bottom edge. However, the instructions for the neckband are written as k1, p1 rib. Which rib pattern is correct to finish off this lovely sweater?
Hi Pam,
Great question! Although the way it is written may make it seem like 1×1 ribbing, the neckline is knit in 2×1 ribbing as you can see in the picture! When knitting the neck, you will *k1, p1, k1, and then repeat from *, so you do end up knitting twice in a row when repeating all three stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
On page 18 – round 1:*P1, K2, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1. k2.p1, sm…..what is “sm”? I can’t find an explanation anywhere.
Hi Lynda,
Thanks for writing in! SM stands for Slip Marker, and indicates to move the marker from the left hand needle to the right hand needle when you come to it. You can find a guide to all of our abbreviations on our Knitting Abbreviations + Terms page!
Best,
Julianna
The pattern page on Ravelry for this sweater states that an errata is available, but the link is not good. Can I assume that the pattern on this page is correct? Thanks!
Hi Peachy,
Thanks for reaching out! We did find an error in this pattern a few years ago, but the correction has been incorporated into the pattern above so you can knit it as written. For future reference, you can find our Errata page by clicking here!
Best,
Julianna
On page 18, there are directions for all the sizes but the small. How do I proceed?
Hi Lark,
Thanks for reaching out! When specific directions for your size aren’t given, you can skip over the instructions for the other sizes and continue with the next set of instructions that are written for all sizes.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
I’m at the point where it says:
Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k22 (24, 26, 28, 30), turn work so that wrong side (the inside of the sweater) is facing you. Where you just turned will now be considered the end of the row, and what was previously considered the end-of-round marker is now just a regular marker.
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row. 152 (166, 174, 186, 198) total stitches
My first question is about Row 2 and which stitches I’m binding off. I’m making a Large, so are the 8 stitches I’m binding off the same stitches that I’ve just knit in Row 1, or do I continue in the same direction that I was going in Row 1? The yarn is in my left needle and I’m confused which direction I go.
My second question is: when I’m binding off those 8 stitches, do I purl new stitches in order to bind them off or do I bind off purlwise the existing stitches on the needle from the previous round? Sorry for the stupid questions and thank you in advance.
Hi Tannis,
Thanks for reaching out! You will be binding off the last, or most recent, 8 stitches you just knitted, and they should be in the middle of the front of the sweater for the center front neckline. After you turn to the wrong side, your yarn should be attached to the first stitch on the left hand needle so you are ready to start binding off. When directed to bind off a certain number of stitches, you will start by purling two more stitches, but will only count the stitches that you pass over as bound off stitches.
I hope that clears things up, and please don’t hesitate to ask if you have any more questions – we are always here to help!
Julianna
I just picked up stitches on neck… has anyone switched back to 6 needles? 7 seems loose for the neck ribbing.
Hi Wendy,
Thank you for writing in! The pattern does state to switch back to your smaller 16″ needle to pick up the neckband stitches, so you’re exactly right! In general the ribbing of cuffs, hem, and collar will always be knit in the same size, usually a smaller one than the rest of the sweater. Please feel free to share a photo of your sweater when it is finished, we would love to see the results!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
I would love to knit this sweater in Good Wool. Can you give me an estimate of how many skeins I would need for sizes XS and Small? Thanks!
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for reaching out! This sweater will be wonderful in Good Wool! You will need three skeins for the extra small, or four skeins for the small.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
This is a beautiful looking sweater but I’m wondering if one could somewhat easily add a hood to it instead of using the neckband described in the pattern. Any suggestions of how to go about it?
I’m a sock person, sweaters are a somewhat new feat and I’m trying to find a nice standard pattern for the family hoodies since hoodies seem to be uber-popular. Thank you so much!
Hi Steffi,
Thanks for writing in! Although we don’t have instructions or a pattern for a hood, it is certainly possible to add one to this sweater instead of the collar ribbing! If you google “how to add a hood to a knitted sweater,” you should find several tutorials for drafting your own.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
In the Notes section, 2 2-stitch decreases are explained (sk2p, k3tog). But these decreases aren’t used. The 2 decreases that are used (ssk, k2tog) are not explained.
Why?
Hi Kendra,
Thanks for writing in! The k2tog and ssk decreases are very standard decreases that are used in many, many knitting patterns, so we didn’t include specific instructions, but you can learn how to do them from our Knit Two Together (k2tog) Tutorial and Slip Slip Knit (ssk) Tutorial! You may not have gotten to the special double decreases yet, as they aren’t used until the end of the yoke shaping and are only required for some sizes of the sweater.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello!
I’m adding a thumbhole to the cuff and thus I’m not entirely sure how long to knit the ribbing for. Approximately how far past the wrist bone/bottom of the palm should the cuff transition into the sleeve?
Thank you!
Hi Chloe,
Thanks for writing in, and what a neat modification! Our ribbing measured 3 inches, beginning at the base of the hand or just below the wrist bone, for a full-length long sleeve. Just to make sure your thumb hole ends up in the wrong place, I would recommend trying on the sleeve to make sure it reaches your armpit before moving on to the next part of the sweater. You can easily shorten or lengthen the sleeve at the top if necessary!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there – knitting this lovely sweater, and it is going great! Just because I noticed that “cut yarn” is only specifically included for the pouch, I have to ask before I make the cut: can I cut the yarn when I am done w each sleeve? I assume yes, but really would like the confirmation! Thanks again for this great project – Camilla
Hi Camilla,
Thanks for writing in – it’s wonderful to hear that you are enjoying knitting this sweater so much! Yes, after you finish each sleeve, you can cut your yarn and set them aside. Please let us know if there’s anything else we can clarify for you!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! Just finished this sweater as the first knitting project – aside from socks – in decades. So happy with the result! Thanks again for this great pattern – easy to follow, beautiful end product.
Hi there! Love this pattern. Quick question – would you say the sizing is for a unisex sweater? I’m hoping to make for my boyfriend, but women’s sweaters tend to have shorter arms and more narrow waist/shoulder measurements.
Also, would you say the Purl Soho Cashmere Merino Bloom yarn makes an ok substitution?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Gabby,
Thanks for reaching out! What a great idea! This pattern is designed in women’s sizing but I believe it would be very easy to adjust the measurements to fit your boyfriend! You may want to order additional skeins of yarn to adjust the sleeve length/circumference of the body and if you don’t end up using it you can return them for store credit within 6 months as long as they are still in skeins. I also think Cashmere Merino Bloom would be a perfect yarn for this pattern! I would recommend doing a gauge swatch before beginning to make sure your gauge is in line with the pattern!
You will have to let us know how this goes! Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello, read the all the comments to be sure I am not repeating a question. Can you please help me understand k7, mark this 7th stitch with a removable marker, *knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from *to end of round. Do I leave the marker where it is and continue until the piece measures 10 1/2in from cast on edge. I am knitting a size medium. Making the pouch is kind of scaring me. Thank you for any help.
Hi Micki,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, once you do the set up round and place the stitch marker you continue on until the piece measure 10 1/2″ with the stitch marker in place the whole time!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions going forward!
All the best,
Gianna
Apologies if I’m missing something, but as far as I can tell in the section “Large size only” you only decrease twice, but are supposed to go from 100 total stitches to 90. I can’t see a place where it tells you to reduce anything else but then the XL size had a different type of decrease and is supposed to end up the same number of stitches. Am I supposed be decreasing more for size large at This point?
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! Where are you in the pattern at the moment, what section are you working on?
All the best,
Gianna
I am in the section titled “large size only” which is after “continue raglan and shape crew neck”. At the end of “continue raglan and shape crew neck” it said Repeat Rows 8 and Row 9 two (3, 4, 3, 4) more times. 82 (86, 84, 100, 102) total stitches: 12 (12, 12, 12, 12) total for the front, 40 (42, 44, 50, 52) for back, 15 (16, 14, 19, 19) for each sleeve. I am making a large so I have 12 total stitches in front, 50 in back, and 19 for each sleeve. But when I get to “large size only” it said
Repeat Row 8. (Did that)
Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve.
As far as I can tell there is only one ssk and one k2tog and I still had 12 stitches in the front, 19 for each sleeve, and like 48 in the back. I know I could just throw a couple more ssks and k2togs in there but I don’t want to mess this up, I have been working on this sweater for 4 years (sad but true!) and I would just hate to mess it up at the end. XL seems to have the same issue. I am sure I must be missing something as no one else has asked about this!
Thank you so much for your help. I’ve been loving this pattern and the sweater is looking gorgeous!
Hi Sara,
Thanks for the information! So it looks like you may have missed a set of instructions in the CONTINUE RAGLAN AND SHAPE CREW NECK section. After working rows 1-9 and then Repeat Rows 8 and Row 9 two (3, 4, 3, 4) more times, you then work the next section FOR XS (SMALL, LARGE, XLARGE) SIZES ONLY where you will Repeat Row 8. Next Row: [Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 74 (78, 92, 94) stitches: 10 for right and left front, 38 (40, 48, 50) for back, 13 (14, 17, 17) for each sleeve. You then move on to the section FOR LARGE SIZE ONLY and work that repeat
I hope this helps and I can’t wait to hear how the sweater turns out!
All the best,
Gianna
Oh my gosh I just kind of read XS and skipped that. Thank you so much.
The sizing is confusing. My bust is 40, a medium but my hips are also 40, an xtra large. What in the world should I do?
Hi Laurey,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the pattern starts from the bottom up I would recommend following the sections for the XL size and then once you get past the pocket section working evenly spaced decreases on either side till you get closer to the stitch count of the M size fro the bust and shoulder section!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
are there any photos of the side of the sweater? I must be doing it correctly (lol) but it is not doing what I assume (?) it should be doing.
I am doing size M and have just increased after the bottom ribbing to 226 sts. Then I have changed needle size and done Next Round: With larger, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, *k86 (96, 106, 116, 126), place different color marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
After placing the difft. color marker and doing p1k2 twice, plus the p1, then knitting to the next marker I have knit an extra 11 sts beyond the 106. Should I put a marker after the 106 sts and then k the 11 sts to the next marker? That does not seem correct.
Hi Ell,
Thanks for reaching out! So after knitting 106 stitch you then place the marker and then p1, k2 two times and then p1. You then repeat those steps exactly from the *.
I hope this clarifies things!
Gianna
I love this pattern and am very interested in making it, but it is not available in my size. Are you ever planning to make a size inclusive version of this pattern?
Hi Alicia,
Thanks for reaching out! We are very sorry that this pattern isn’t currently in your size range. We really do appreciate that bodies come in all shapes and sizes and share your concern that patterns be as inclusive as possible. We are in the midst of expanding the size range of all our sweater patterns and are happy to report that many of them now fit chest sizes up to 62-64 inches. We are steadily working to make sure this is true of all our patterns. Please be on the lookout, and thank you so much for adding your voice to this issue. We greatly appreciate your feedback!
All the best,
Gianna
Thank you for the quick and thoughtful response! I will keep an eye out for updates. 🙂
I’m loving this pattern. I am making the xsmall and working on my first sleeve. I followed the gauge and noticed my sleeve comes up short! It is 13.5 inches from edge of the sleeve to the armpit instead of the stated 16. I can’t figure out what I did wrong! Is it ok to just keep knitting rows without adding stitches until I get to my desired length? I’m short so didn’t expect the sleeve to be too short for me!
Hi Liza,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you are enjoying this pattern! Hmm I am not sure what could have caused that, but if you already have the correct stitch count you can absolutely work more rows without increasing to get the accurate length!
All the best,
Gianna
Thank you for this pattern, I am so excited to make it for myself. I have only made a couple baby sweaters, so this will be an adventure! I have searched through the Ravelry comments, as well as the comments on this site, and nobody else seems to have the issue that I am having, which makes me feel foolish. Any time I have used a pattern and there have been repeats, I thought it was repeat * to *, so I struggled with the part of the pattern with the sleeve.
** Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two times, p1. (2 stitches increased)
Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1.
Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times.
Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more times. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) stitches
So from this, I repeated round 3, 14 times. Obviously this is not correct. Am I to repeat round 3, round 4 and the round 4 repeat as a whole?
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out! I know the double asterisk can be a bit confusing since it is different than most patterns but for that section you will be repeating Round 3 and Round 4, 14 times!
I hope this helps and please reach out if you have any more questions!
All the best,
Gianna
I’m planning on making this sweater sweatshirt. I need a recommendation on sizing. If my chest measures 42″ and my hips 43″ would you recommend I make this sweater in Large or ExtraLarge. All my other measurements line up with Large – but I’m not sure which way to go. Any suggestions from your experience?
Hi Margi,
Thanks for reaching out! Keep in mind the finished sizes include 3 1/2 inches of ease, so the large would be a bit more fitted and the XL will be a bit more of a loose fit based off your measurements! Either would work it just depends on the fit you would like to achieve!
Warmly,
Gianna
thanks so much – you are always to most helpful and I wouldn’t be able to finish most of my projects if it weren’t for the helpful YouTube tutorials. I always recommend Purl Soho to all my knitting pals even those of us who live in Canada. You are the BEST!!!
Hi there! I love this pattern . I made one already in an XL I wear it but it is too big. I am going to make it again in a L instead. Here are my 2 questions
1. I have a stash of super wash worsted Plymouth which lists a gauge of 5 sets per inch. Can that work?
2. Sleeves are always too long. What is the best way to make a shorter sleeve!
Margie
Hi Margie,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that yarn should work great! I do recommend always working a gauge swatch whenever using a different yarn than what the pattern suggest to insure you are consistent with the written gauge! The easiest way to shorten the sleeve section without interfering with the shaping would be to shorten the cuff!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m having the best time ever making this sweater. I’m almost at the finish line but have a quick question. After the row 8 and 9 repeats, etc. it says:
Continuing with the right side facing you and now using the smaller, 16-inch circular needle, pm (new beginning of round), pick up 30 (33, 36 ,36 ,39) stitches evenly along the front neckline. Continuing around the remaining 66 (78, 78, 90, 90) stitches, *k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round. 96 (111, 114, 126, 129) stitches
Next Round: *K1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Two questions – a) is this pick up stitches knitted only for the 39 stitches (making XL) and then switch to K1, p1, K1 and b) in the photos the neckband looks like the bottom and cuffs which are K2, P2. So what am I to do?
Hi Margi,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you are enjoying this sweater! You are completely on the right track, since you already should have the 90 stitches on your needles from working the back, you will only pick up the 39 stitches around the front of the neck! As for the Neck, the k1, p1, k1 repeat is correct and insures that the ribs aligns with the ribs going up the raglan shaping. If you repeat the k1, p1, k1, the two ks end up next to each other creating a k2, p1 pattern!
I hope this clears things up and best of luck finishing!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello! This was the first sweater I’ve ever knitted and I’m still in love with it ( this was about 7 years ago now!) I want to knit it again but was thinking of knitting in reverse stockinette. Do you think this would be easy to switch? I’m more worried about following the decreases/ raglan sleeves and unsure how to modify. Thank you so much!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you still love this sweater! I think that is a great idea and it should be fairly simple to work the pattern that way! I would recommend working the ribbing and the raglan as written, but reversing the stockinette! You can then work the decreases on the purl side, I recommend checking out our Purl 2 Together (p2tog) + Slip Slip Purl (ssp) tutorial!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions! I am so excited to her how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
What is KO and how do you do it?
Hi Bettye,
Thanks for reaching out! It is actually K0 not KO, this means you will not be knitting any stitches if that appears for the size you are making.
For example in the sleeve section where it says Next Round: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers. This means if you are making the 1st or 2nd size (where the 0 appears) you do not knit any stitches and move directly onto placing the previous 7 (7,) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn. But if you are making the Medium, Large, or X-Large size then you would K (knit) 1, 2, or 3 stitches before placing the 9, 11, or 13 stitches on hold.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you so much for replying. I was really confused. It’s a great pattern and I want to try it.
Hi there,
Thank you for this fun pattern, I’m knitting it up for my 10 year old, and she is really excited about it! I’m at the section ‘begin Raglan Shaping, specifically the decrease round. I’m counting 4 reduction stitches (ssk &k2tog x2) around the diagonal lines at the armpits, so that reduces the round by 4 st (from 8 to 4). However, it says to decrease 8 stitches in total that round. Where do I reduce the other 4? First I thought it was just a typo, but then it continues to say to reduce down to a total of 158 stitches after another 16 repeats. If I reduce by 4 I would end up with 226 st. What am I missing? Help!
Hi Sylvia,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! Since this row has an asterisk it means you will be repeating the instructions more than once around the row! So for this round you should have 4 stitch markers already in place, You will then *P1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before the next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to five stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm (4 stitches decreased on half of the row, the first 2 of 4 stitch markers) You will then repeat this section again from the * around the rest of the row decreases 4 more stitches on the other side of (the other 2 stitch marker) leaving you with 8 total stitches decreased in this round!
I hope this clears things up and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Knitting the pouch first looks better than picking up the stitches later. I knit the full pouch, leaving the remaining stitches on a holder. I cast on the same number of stitches as the pouch, and knit in the round until I could k2tog with the pouch stitches and the “behind the pouch” stitches.
Beautiful sweater and clear instructions, as always!
Hi Katie,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so glad to hear that you enjoyed this pattern and thank you for sharing your tip with all of us!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello !
I have ordered the Koigu’s Kersti for this project, 5 skeins has mentioned. But now that I have received my order, I look at the 5 skeins, they look small, 50g, and I am wondering if it’s enough wool ? (small size).
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you will end up needing more than 5 skeins of the Kersti; I took a look at the pattern and the original yarn that it was designed for (the Swans Island’s Worsted) had about 250yards per skein, so with 5 skeins you would get about 1,250 yards. The Kersti only comes with 114 yards per skein, so to get the same yardage as the Swans Island’s Worsted you would need more like 11 skeins total. I’m sorry for the confusion! I’ll check in with our tech department and see if we can update the pattern to include the yardage requirements for this project, since we are no longer carrying the original yarn!
I hope this helps clear things up, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi Kelsy, thanks for answering back. Unfortunately, the color I ordered a month ago (I live in Montreal, Canada, so shipping takes a while) is not available anymore.
Can I send you back the wool I have and get a refund. Is this possible ?
Hi Kim,
You can certainly return your unused yarn; you can find our complete return policy here. You can also email us at [email protected] with any additional questions!
All the best,
Kelsey
Hi, I’m using this pattern to add a pouch to a sweater i’ve already finished. Is it still possible to graft the pouch to the sweater or should I just seam it? I’m using the same measurements (74 stitches) and same decreases, the only difference is the sweater is entirely finished.
Hi Hannah,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could certainly follow this technique for a pocket! You can pick up stitches on the sweater, and knit the pocket as written, but since the sweater is already finished I would recommend then sewing the pocket down at the top since you wont have live stitches to graft the pocket!
Please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
It worked out beautifully! I cast off the last row, and then pinned it down to the sweater while I ran some scarp yarn through the stitches I wanted to use for mattress stitch so I’d have a straight line (lol). I picked a row just below where the cast off edge is so when I seamed it together, the cast off edge rolled under slightly and was hidden! It looks amazing! Thank you for your input!
Regards,
Hannah
I am little confuse. While shaping neck. We have to bind stitches only on front side or we have to bind some stitches on back side too.
Hi Vandana,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you are no longer working in the round, but back and forth in rows, you will be binding off, in small increments on the sides as you go, working across!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Thank you Gianna for your reply
Working on Size M, and am at the end of the shaping for Raglan and Crew Neck. I am having trouble getting from 86 stitches to 78 stitches to begin the Neckband. As I read the directions, I count only 8 stitches decreased (k2tog, skp2, k3tog, ssk), leaving me with 80 stitches. I’m also not clear: my single stitch decreases begin and end the row, not after/before 6 stitches (i.e. the row starts at 6 stitches before the marker, so the k2tog begins the row).
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d be happy to help clarify this section of the Sweatshirt Sweater for you! If you’re working size M, I believe that you may be misreading the stitch count for the end of the “CONTINUE RAGLAN AND SHAPE CREW NECK” section of the pattern. You should finish that section with 84 stitches total, not 86 (which is the stitch count for the Small Size). When you reach the “MEDIUM SIZE ONLY” section and work the decrease row, you should only need to decrease by 6 stitches (1 st for k2tog, 2 sts for skp2, 2 sts for k3tog, 1 st for ssk), bringing you from 84 sts to 78.
I’d recommend going back a bit to check that you’ve got the correct stitch count from the beginning of the “CONTINUE RAGLAN AND SHAPE CREW NECK” section, to make sure that everything is lined up as it should be! If you’re still having trouble, you can always reach out to us at [email protected] for additional assistance!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi, I’m about to start this pattern in Malabrigo worsted, but I’m struggling to nail the correct gauge. I’ve managed to get my stitches down to 20 per 4 inches using size 5 needles, but I think going any lower will make the fabric too tight. By my calculations, with the gauge I have, I’ll end up with a sweater that is about 4 inches bigger than I want it to be. Am I better off dropping down a size to account for this?
I should add that this is the gauge after blocking. I assume that’s what I’m meant to be going for?
Hi Val,
Exactly, the gauge should be measured after blocking your swatch so you’re all set there!
All the best,
Cat
Hi Val,
Thanks so much for writing in! You could definitely go down a sweater size, but just to be sure you’re getting the best possible fit, I would suggest measuring your chest circumference, adding the number of inches of positive ease you’d like, and then multiplying that by the number of stitches per inch you’re getting, which looks to be 5 stitches per inch. Then, I would go through the pattern and see if there’s a cast-on amount that matches the closest to that and you can then follow the directions from this cast on.
I hope this is helpful! Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Kindest regards,
Cat
I love this pattern and would love to knit it to completion. I’m also struggling with your double ** on your SHAPE SLEEVE. I just want to know if your ** denotes two rounds or one? For example your increase round and the immediately following round are one round? Or two rounds? Im knitting the smallest size, the numbers aren’t adding up. Thanks for any help. Im not new to knitting but this ones confusing. Thank you for any help.
Hi Marjorie,
Thanks for reaching out. The asterisks just mean to repeat the instructions from that point (the section in between the asterisks) a certain number of times! So for example, at this point in the pattern, you’ll need to repeat this entire section:
Increase Round: Make 1 left (m1L), knit to next marker, make 1 right (m1R), slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] 2 times, p1. [2 stitches increased]
Next Round: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1.
Repeat last round 4 (5, 4, 2, 1) (1, 1, 1, 1) more time(s).
eight more times! Then you can continue on in the pattern. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
i have arrived at the body. and cast on 240 sts.
* k5 k kfb k8 kfb five times . help here ( k2p1) 2times i get this then i start again k5 ….. to end of round?
why did knit 2 our one?
are we to mark dividing a front & back?
i love this sweater so much and really know it is just my old brain not understanding HELP please
Hi Marie,
Thanks for reaching out. It looks like you’re on the Increase Round for the body! This round is meant to add a few more stitches after the ribbing at the bottom edge of the body, in order to get that classic “sweatshirt” shape. I often find that breaking down complex rounds like this one helps me visualize what’s going on better. Here’s how I would break it down:
Step 1: K5, kfb
Step 2: [k8, kfb] 12 times
Step 3: [k2, p2] 2 times
Step 4: Repeat steps 1-3 until you reach the end of the round
You’ll end up with 266 stitches on your needles! And you won’t have to worry about dividing for the front and back yet–you’ll get to that step much later on in the pattern. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
thank you so much for all you help I was just little confused about the k2 p1 at the end of the round but just trust the well written pattern and do not over think
feeling so much better
I really enjoyed knitting this. I had been on a knitting hiatus but mostly knit sweaters so this was a nice way to jump back into knitting.
I have made this sweater twice (!) and both times it is huge on me. My actual bust measurement is 37 inches. How many stitches should I cast on for the body? The sizing instructions are confusing to me. Please help.
Hi Melinda,
Thank you so much for reaching out! Because this sweater is designed to fit with about 3 1/2″ of positive ease, you probably want to knit a size medium for your measurments and cast on 204 stitches for the body. We have a very useful tutorial called Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size that you might find useful!
It is also possible that if your gauge was slightly bigger than the pattern’s, your sweater could end up being inches off from the size you meant to knit! Your stitches should measure 5 1/2 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette on what ever needle size it takes to obtain gauge, so I would recommend casting on about 20 stitches to get a good measurment of the swatch. Here is our tutorial All About Gauge!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi !
Since the Swans Island’s Worsted is no longer available and that the replacement yarn Morning seem’s to take more skeins for smallest size, should I adjust the size I am knitting and knitting the size after ?
Thanks 🙂
Hi Kim!
Thank you for writing in. You will still knit the same size regardless of which yarn you choose, provided you meet gauge with your yarn! There is no need to make a different size when using a different yarn assuming you are able to achieve gauge.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
thank you for allowing me to reach out i gave read over five responses and can nit find my question so help please
i am working the 76 stitches on sleeve and ready to according to pattern in my size (7th#)Repeat last round until piece measures 16 (16¼, 17¼, 17½, 17½) (17½, 17½, 17½, 17¾) inches from cast-on edge, or to desired length to Underarm.
Next Round: Knit 0 (1, 3, 5, 7) (9, 11, 13, 15), place previous 7 (9, 13, 17, 21) (25, 29, 33, 37) stitches onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers.
Place remaining 61 (60, 62, 72, 77) (76, 76, 77, 76) stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.
Make a second Sleeve identical to the first.
knit 11stitches and place the 29 stitches on holder ( total stitch on hold are 40? )
place 76/stitches on holder (this where i am lost what 76) i copied and pasted this from the pattern i knit 11 and now i put those 11 plus 29 more on hold
knit the second sleeve
help i am the 7 number sleeve stitch count 76 length is 17 1/2 inches
please hurry with answer
although we are having unusually warm oct it will soon be into the damp cold wet dull BC coastal rain!
so excited
i hope someone started a knit along on this lovely relaxing it does seem to be a great beginner if the pattern was just a little clearer
thank you
marie landry
Hi Marie,
Thank you for writing in, though we’re so sorry to hear you’ve hit a stopping point in your project! When it comes time to place stiches on hold for the end of your sleeve, you will be knitting 11 stitches into the next round, and then placing the previous 11 stitches that you just knit, plus the last 18 stitches from the previous round on hold, for a total of 29 on-hold underarm stitches. This is because the 29 previous stitches includes the initial 11 knit stitches, but the 29 stitches are not in addition to the 11 knit stitches. Then, there will be 76 stitches left on your needles to put on hold in the following step!
I hope this helps you continue on in your sweatshirt sweater!
All the best,
Margaret
see i knew i was over thinking a big thank you so much you are knitting angels
i have to finish this before i lose all my sight completely.
what a lovely finish sweater in your linen quill
marie landry
You are very welcome, Marie, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi there,
I’m almost at the finish line with this sweater! But confused on how to go forward when it comes to picking up the stitches for the neckband. :-/
1) Do I pick up the stitches with the yarn I’m already working with? Or cut the yarn at the end of “Row 8 and Next Row…” and use a fresh piece like in your tutorials?
2) If picking up each and every stitch, I seem to have way more than just 36 stitches (knitting the size L)—waaaay more! Do you need to pick up the stitch over the bump where each bind off occurred previously? I have closer to 48 stitches to pick up. I’m wondering which stitch I should be picking up first after the most recent row is finished. I’m careful to only pick up the “v” for each column.
3) Per another comment, to clarify: the pick up stitches are all knit, and then once you get to the remaining 90 stitches already knit, that is when the k1, p1, k1 commences? No idea how that results in a k2, p1 rib but I will follow the recipe! 🙂
Question #2 is the most pressing–I don’t know what to do with all of these extras stitches that I’m picking up!
PS–I began this sweater in February after my home was flooded and I was displaced. The project kept me so sane and gave me something to look forward to even as my home was torn apart and renovated! Thank you for the free pattern and can’t wait to cozy up in it this winter!
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for reaching out. I’d be happy to answer your questions about this pattern!
1) Yes, you should still be using the yarn you’re already working with! As a general rule of thumb, patterns will usually directly say “cut yarn” if they want you to cut the yarn, and if they don’t indicate that, then you don’t need to cut the yarn at that point.
2) This is a great question, and the answer is a little involved! After working from the beginning of Continue Raglan and Shape Crew Neck through Row 7, you will have bound off a total of 30 stitches for the center neckline. Then, you will work a total of 12 more rows during all the repeats of Rows 8, 9, and Next Row. This will add a height of 12 rows on either side of the bound-off stitches. You’re right that this does total to more than 36 stitches, but that’s intentional, since it tightens up the fit of the neckline a bit! The best way to make sure that you pick up the stitches evenly (not necessarily in every single “v”) is to place 4 stitch markers and even distance away along the neckline, and pick up exactly 9 stitches in between each one.
3) You’re right–all the stitches are picked up knitwise, and then you will begin the ribbing pattern for the remaining 90 stitches! The instructions *k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to end of round do indeed create 2 x 1 ribbing though. You can see that by writing out the pattern repeat (k1, p1, k1) next to itself, like so: k1, p1, k1, k1, p1, k1, k1, p1, k1. Since there are two k1’s happening next to each other, that condenses into k1, p1, k2, p1, k2, p1, k1 (and the first and final k1’s create a k2 across the end-of-round).
I hope this helps clear things up, but please let me know if you’re still running into trouble!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili!! I got the pick up to work a-okay. It was bizarre not to pick up every single stitch, but it worked. In the photos and in my sweater currently, I do find that there is a slight “dip” in the part where the right-side-wrong-side knitting began in the pattern. So I picked up tightly on both sides of that to hide that little dip as well.
Thank you again for your remote help, it really means a lot!
I’ve almost completed this pattern (it was easy to follow, thank you!) but I’m struggling to finish the neck line. I’ve finished binding off the front and I can’t figure out how to pick up the stitches from the right side. I’m not changing my needle size so do I need another set of needles to start that section? If so, how do I proceed?
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! In the NECKBAND section, you will actually begin picking up stitches from the left side of the neckline, since that’s where your working yarn is. You can see this positioning in the photo included in this section! Just make sure your working yarn is in the same spot as shown in the photo, and then you can pick up and knit the stitches across the entire neckline. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for responding so quickly! Where I’m confused is that it says “ Continuing with right side facing you and now using smaller 16-inch circular needles, pm (new end of round), pick up and knit 27 (32, 30, 36, 40) (49, 56, 58, 62) stitches evenly along front Neckline;” implying that you would start on the right side by picking up the bind off section. Am i mistaken?
Hi Melissa,
The “right side” in this context refers to the right side of the knit fabric, not the right side of the sweater when worn! This is referring to the outside of the sweater (right side), as opposed to the inside of the sweater (wrong side).
The reason we specify “with right side facing” at this point is because you’re going back to knitting in the round after knitting flat for a time. When you knit flat, you’re switching back and forth between right side facing and wrong side facing, but when you get back to knitting in the round, you need to make sure the right side is facing you so that your knit stitches appear on the correct side of the sweater.
Let me know if this makes more sense!
All the best,
Lili
I just finished knitting this sweatshirt sweater in large and it fits beautifully but I wish the neck were a bit tighter/smaller. I plan to knit it again in another color and would like advice on how to adjust the neck. The pattern is great…very clear instructions. Thank you!
Hi Sharlene,
Thanks for reaching out! To make the neckline smaller, I’d recommend knitting the NECKBAND section on smaller needles. This will tighten up the stitches themselves, but if you want and even more drastic change to the size, you can pick up fewer stitches around the neckline edge and knit the neckband with fewer stitches overall.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for the advice. I will try fewer stitches on this next one and go down another size on the needles.
Can a 3 needle bind off be used at the underarm instead of the Kitchener stitch?
Hi Sharlene,
Yes, you can use a 3-needle bind-off for the underarms!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much for your prompt reply. I love this pattern and Purl Soho.
Hi! I’m using this pattern to knit my first sweater. I am a guy. Based upon my chest measurement and positive ease recommended in the pattern, I’d like to knit the 44 & 3/4 diameter of the sweater. But am worried the arms & total length of the sweater will be too short. If I want to lengthen the sweater, can I just add more rows until I get to the divide front & back? For arms, is there a way I can calculate how long to knit the sleeves based upon my arm measurements? Finally, I’m worried the sleeves will be too tight around my biceps. Can I add more stitches to the arms without affecting how it connects to the top of the sweater? Or Do I need to knit a bigger sweater just so my arms will fit? Thanks for any advice you might have!
Hi Sam,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend taking a look at the schematics diagram to view all the measurements for this sweater. Then, you can take your own measurements (body length, arm length, upper arm circumference in particular seem like the measurements you’re concerned about) and compare them to the measurements in the sweater. That way, you can tell for sure if any modifications are necessary! And I’m happy to help you with the modifications once you figure out for sure where you want to change the measurements of the pattern.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much for the response Lili! I have studied the schematics diagram extensively and agree it is an excellent resource for this pattern. However, while the sleeve length is clearly defined in the diagram, there is an unlabeled length between the neck and the start of the sleeve. Should I use the Pythagorean theorem to estimate this distance? I’ve measured my neck to wrist length and armpit to wrist length but still cannot figure out either of those lengths compare to the sleeve length listed on the pattern. Can you help me solve for this unknown variable in the pattern? Thanks!
Hi Sam,
Glad to hear that you found the schematics so helpful! The length you’re wondering about is the yoke depth measurement. You can actually find this measurement listed elsewhere in the schematics, but it’s confusing since it’s actually notated vertically! But it’s the same measurement–you can basically think of the yoke as a pyramid with a rectangular base, so the depth is essentially the same wherever you take the measurement from. The measurements of this distance are: 8 1/2 (9, 9 3/4, 10, 10 1/2) (10 1/2, 10 1/2, 10 1/2, 11).
All the best,
Lili
I am so excited to start this project but one tiny prob is – i am not clear on sizes and i would like to make a few of these – one for me im 5foot 5 inches 120 pounds and my sons are tall lean adults 6 foot , 6 foot 2 and , 6 foot 4 but very lean. Which sizes in sweater pattern should i do for me and each of my sons individually. Thanks!!!
Hi,
Thank you for writing in! To get an accurate idea of what sizes to make, you will want to begin with chest measurements of each person you will be making a sweater for. From there, you can choose which set of instructions to work with per sweater. This pattern is offered in a size-inclusive range to fit actual chest circumferences of 28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46) (48-50, 52-54, 56-58, 60-62) with 4-6 inches of ease. To read more on how you can select the size that’s right for your project, we recommend visiting our handy post all about size selections here. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello, I am a somewhat experienced knitter (which means little!) because I am confused about the following instructions in the ‘Divide Front + Back’: Knit to next marker……., place previous 7 (9,13…) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for underarm, 2 times.’
Does this mean place the 7 stitches preceding the stitch with the working yarn (ie. the -1,k2x2 stitches) on scrap yarn? then knit across to the next marker and do the same?
I don’t understand how I am dividing it if I am knitting across. If I am not knitting across, when do I place the separate front/back on spare yarn? Please help!
Hi Molly,
Thank you for writing in! For this section you will want to be sure to complete the full instruction ( [Knit to next marker, remove marker, [p1, k2] 2 times, p1, k 0 (1, 3, 5, 7) (9, 11, 13, 15), place previous 7 (9, 13, 17, 21) (25, 29, 33, 37) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Underarm] two times total. This will allow you to place stitches on hold and then knit to the next spot where you will again put another amount of stitches on hold. In order to get to the second set of stitches to put on hold, you have to first work up to that point or your working yarn will not be in the correct place to continue knitting the pattern. I hope this helps but please let me know if I have misunderstood your questions and I would be happy to have another look!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I’m nearly finished making size 37 1/2 and loving this pattern – thank-you so much! I couldn’t make the neckband section work with the stitch count given for this size, though – the ribbing doesn’t line up with the raglan stitches; and the ribbing doesn’t even align with itself based on the instructions given because the picked up stitches are not a multiple of three for this size. I got around this by amending the last row of the ‘Size 37 1/2 Only’ section as follows: Next Row (Raglan Shaping Row): K1, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit 12, k2tog, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, k1. [69 total stitches remain: 5 stitches each for Right and Left Front; 37 stitches for Back; 11 stitches for each Sleeve] Then pick up 33 stitches around the neckline instead of 32, and everything lines up beautifully :).
(Re-posted due to too many typos in original comment!)
Hi Kimberly,
Thank you so much for sharing those details although I’m sorry to hear the instructions didn’t align with the ribbing as intended. I will be sure to pass this message on to our design team for further investigation but in the meantime, I am sure other knitters will appreciate this information greatly!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi, Is there an error in the instructions for size 333/4- 481/4 in the Cont Raglan + Shape Neckline? Row 1 reads: Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k22 (24, 25, 29, 31) (-, -, -, -), turn work so wrong side is facing you. (This is now the end of the row, and the end-of-round marker is just a regular marker.)
That totals 26 stitches worked when per the earlier section each sleeve would have 27 stitches as the starting #. What does one do with the extra stitch? Thank you
Hi Maulshree,
Thanks for writing in! Row 1 is worked over half of the front neckline stitches, not the sleeve stitches. There are 52 front stitches, so you work 26 of them (which is exactly half!) and then turn your work to begin Row 2. All the rest the stitches remain on your needles at this point, but you will start binding off some at the beginning of each row to shape the front neckline. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
HI Lili, Thanks so much. This is very helpful. I wonder if I have messed up royally in the preceding section (Begin Raglan Shaping) because… my end of row unique marker demarcates the start of the front and the left sleeve (the sweater is facing you with pouch in front). With that set up, when I follow the instructions of the Cont Shaping section, I am set up to begin work at the sleeves, not the front of the sweater. Where should the unique marker be? The other 3 regular markers are where the left sleeve meets the back, where the back meets the second sleeve, where the second sleeve meets the front. Thanks!
Ah, it does seem like your end-of-round marker is in the wrong spot! It should be the one that’s at the front left raglan seam.
All the best,
Lili
Is it possible to make it in a diff gauge (I am at 19 stitches across and 24 down per 4 inches) if I adjust everything accordingly?
Hi Jia,
Thanks for writing in! There is a way to use a different gauge when knitting garments, and all you’ll need to do is choose a different size to follow.
Here’s how to figure out which size to make: First, make a gauge swatch in pattern with your intended yarn and needles. Once you know how many stitches you’re getting per inch, multiply that number by the chest circumference measurement for your original size. Then, compare the resulting number to the stitch counts around the body of each size (168 (186, 204, 222, 240) (258, 276, 294, 312) stitches). The size that comes closest is the one you should make!
All the best,
Lili