Magic Loop is a technique for working in the round that avoids the use of double pointed needles. Using longer-than-usual circular needles, you can knit projects even with very small circumferences, like wee little socks, crowns of hats, cuffs of sleeves… the list goes on!
Note: You can use a form of Magic Loop for both crochet and knitting. Here we demonstrate the technique for knitting!
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Thank you, this video demystified the magic loop technique! I’m going to bookmark it for reference.
Excellent video! Made everything so clear! Thank you!
Thank you! No more double points for me!
Thanks for the clear video! I tried it on one of your handwarmer patterns which involved a lot slip stitches with size 7 needles, and found I had so much trouble getting the stitches from the cable back on the needle that I gave up and went back to double-pointed for this pattern. Is magic loop easier with smaller needle sizes or straight stockinette stitch?
Hi Naomi,
Thanks for reaching out! Issues with magic loop are usually caused by the type of needle you are using – if your needle does not have a smooth tapered join between the cord and needle, getting the stitches back on the needle can be quite frustrating indeed. The needle size can play a part, but usually is only an issue with needles that are significantly larger than the cord starting around a US 11 and up, so I wouldn’t think a US 7 would cause any problems due to the size of the needle. Even very small needles that are not significantly different from the cord, such as a US 1 or 2, can be problematic for magic loop if they have a join that catches the yarn. I use Addi Turbo and Addi Rocket needles frequently for magic loop projects in a variety of sizes and find them to be quite easy to work with!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Best explanation of magic loop I have seen. I have watched others and only got confused.
You are an excellent teacher — many thanks!
Thank you for this video it is helpful
I cannot get the free pattern for stripey socks for Cri Du
Awareness. I got the 18 pages of socks. No Pattern
Hi Joan,
Thanks for reaching out! You can get the free pattern by going to our Easy Heel Colorblock Socks Pattern page. The price is automatically discounted to free, no coupon necessary!
Best,
Julianna
Great tutorial. I feel really confident to use this technique now. Thanks!
Thank you! So many videos I watched made this more complicated (especially the joining in the round). What a relief, time to knit now.
Lori
Hi. Please can you offer some help. I have worked as far as the underarm for your Raglan sleeve pullover knitted in the round. I have looked at all the comments relating to this pattern on your website so it seems to me that there is a problem with the wording used in the pattern. My querries are from the point of seperating front and back where I find the instructions very confusing.
1.Round 1 K9 place previous 18 sts on stitch holder – does that include the 9 ?? If so why not put that in the instructions.
2. If so then there are 9 sts equally on front and back from the side i.e. the point from which the hemline curve begins. Is that correct??
Just a suggestion as there seem to be many queries relating to this pattern why not reread it and sort out the issues..
Hi Doreen,
Thanks for writing in! This step might seem a little confusing but I’m happy to help clear it up! This row is written in this manner because the held underarm stitches need to be centered around the side seam marker – in other words, when you knit 9 past the marker and then place the previous 18 stitches on hold, you will be using the 9 stitches on either side of the marker, which does include the 9 stitches you just knitted. This will ensure that, yes, the underarm stitches are centered above the high point of the hem, between the two curved edges, so the curved hems end up on the front and back of the sweater.
I hope that helps!
Julianna