All Roads Hat + Mittens
While most hat and mitten patterns are knit in the round, there are some advantages to taking the flat route. For our All Roads Hat + Mittens, designed by Lili Tobias, working back and forth in rows allows you to easily create colorful stripes without any fancy shenanigans. It also means you can work garter stitch without purling, and maybe best of all, you can forego double pointed needles, too. All roads are leading to casting on for this charming set!

Lili has you knit your All Roads Hat in five wedges, using short rows to shape the crown and adding to the middle of each wedge a contrast stripe that thins into a line and converges at the peak with the other four stripes. At the end of the fifth wedge, you sew the cast-on and bind-off edges together to form your hat.

You then cast on a new piece for the brim and attach it to the hat as you knit it, a design detail with a few benefits. Attaching the brim in this way creates a crisp fold, as well as a seam that provides a little extra structure to super-stretchy garter stitch fabric. You also get to choose if you want the brim of your hat to be the main color or the contrast color. Who doesn’t love options? In the end, you seam the two ends of the brim, and you have arrived at a very cool hat!

You knit the mittens in much the same way, casting on and knitting back and forth in garter stitch, increasing and decreasing to shape the tips of the fingers and using short rows to shape the base of the palm and thumb. You begin the left mitten with the hand and the right with the thumb, but they both have that eye-catching racing stripe right down the center. It thins into a line on the inside wrist, cleverly tying together with the design of the hat.


Our Good Wool has the perfect palette and characteristics to help you answer the call of the open road. It is 100% Andean highland wool, which means Good Wool comes from sheep who live in the high altitudes of the Peruvian Altiplano, where it’s common to see temperatures well below freezing in the winter months. Adapting to these conditions, the wool these sheep make is particularly durable, springy, warm, and given all this, softer than you may expect!

With two loosely spun plies, Good Wool has a ton of loft and bounce, and because its fibers aren’t held in place by a tight twist, they fluff out a bit once it’s washed (we often call this “blooming”). This makes it a wonderfully warm and cushiony choice!


When you want a striking palette for color play, Good Wool has everything you need.

Good Wool comes in five colors grown by the sheep themselves, plus a rainbow of gorgeous hues dyed over these natural shades, creating beautifully heathered colors full of depth. With almost forty colors to choose from, you’re sure to find a pair that gets your wheels in motion!


If you’re casting on for the set, you need one skein of your contrast color and one or two of your main color, depending on your size and brim color. So, find your favorites, and you’re off!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!

Designed for Purl Soho by Lili Tobias. Lili spends most of her time knitting, listening to music, or doing both at the same time. She also happens to be our wonderful Customer Service Coordinator!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoAllRoadsHatAndMittens, and #PurlSohoGoodWool. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials

HAT
- Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% Andean highland wool yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is approximately 383 yards/100 grams.
- If working Brim in Color A…
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 155 (195, 245, 295, 345) total yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 35 (40, 40, 45, 45) total yards required
- If working Brim in Color B…
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 85 (110, 135, 155, 175) total yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 105 (130, 155, 185, 215) total yards required
- If working Brim in Color A…
- US 4 (3.5 mm) 24-inch circular needles
- A stitch marker
MITTENS
- Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% Andean highland wool. Each skein is 383 yards/ 100 grams.
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 110 (140, 205, 260, 305) total yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 20 (20, 25, 30, 30) total yards required
- US 4 (3.5 mm) 24-inch circular needles
- A stitch marker
NOTE: To make a Hat + Mittens set you’ll need 1 (1, 1-2, 2, 2) skein(s) of Color A and 1 skein of Color B, depending on your Brim color!
GAUGE
26½ stitches and 53 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
SIZES
HAT
Baby (Toddler, Kid, Adult Small/Medium, Adult Medium/Large)
- Finished Circumference: 12¾ (14¼, 15¾, 17¼, 18¾) inches, comfortably stretching up to 5 inches
- Finished Height (uncuffed): 8¾ (9¾, 10¾, 11½, 12½) inches
- Finished Height (cuffed): 7 (7½, 8¼, 8¾, 9¼) inches
MITTENS
Baby (Toddler, Kid, Adult Small/Medium, Adult Medium/Large)
- Finished Palm Circumference: 4¾ (5¼, 6½, 7, 7¾) inches
- Finished Wrist Circumference: 4 (4¾, 6, 6½, 7) inches
- Finished Length: 6½ (7½, 8¾, 10¼, 11) inches
We knit our samples in the following colors and sizes…
Toddler size: Color A is Heirloom White and Color B is Pink Salt (We used Color A for the Brim.)
Kid size: Color A is Vintage Rose and Color B is Desert Blue (We used Color B for the Brim.)
Adult Small/ Medium size: Color A is Winter Grass and Color B is Barn Door (We used Color A for the Brim.)
NOTES
CONSTRUCTION
Both Hat and Mittens are worked flat back and forth in rows, using short rows to shape the Crown for the Hat and the base of the Palm and the Thumb for the Mittens. For the Mittens, you will begin the Left Mitten with the Hand and begin the Right Mitten with the Thumb.
TWISTED WRP-T (TWISTED WRAP + TURN)
Bring yarn between needles to front of work, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Then, bring yarn to back of work, and return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn between needles to front of work, and finally, turn work so opposite side is facing you, and working yarn is at the back of the work.
NOTE: For help with this technique, visit our Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap pattern and scroll down to the Notes section.
KNITTING WRAPPED STITCH WITH WRAP
Use tip of right needle to pick up the wrap, inserting needle from front to back. Place the wrap onto left needle, so wrap is first stitch on needle and wrapped stitch is second, then knit the two together as you normally would.
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all stitches purlwise.
PICKING UP STITCHES
For the cleanest pick-up edge, insert the needle into the outer most bump of the garter ridge edge.
NOTE: Visit purlsoho.com/create/picking-up-stitches and scroll down to the “Along A Vertical Edge: Garter Stitch, Into the Ridge” section to see exactly how to pick up stitches for this project.
MAKE 1 BACKWARDS LOOP
With working yarn, create a loop so the strand of yarn closer to the ball of yarn is in front, insert needle from front to back of loop. Pull the yarn to tighten the loop on the needle.
NOTE: For more information on this technique, please visit our Make 1 Backwards Loop Tutorial.
M1R + M1L (MAKE 1 RIGHT + LEFT)
Make 1 Right: Use left needle to pick up strand (or “bar”) between last stitch and next stitch, from back to front. Knit into front leg. [1 stitch increased]
Make 1 Left: Use left needle to pick up strand between last stitch and next stitch, from front to back. Knit into back leg. [1 stitch increased]
NOTE: For more help with these increases, visit our Make 1 Right (M1R) + Make 1 Left (M1L) tutorial.
HAT PATTERN
BODY + CROWN
With Color A, cast on 39 (43, 47, 49, 51) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
WORK WEDGE 1
Short Row 1 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, twisted wrp-t (see Notes).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Short Row 3: Knit to two stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Knit to end of row.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 one (2, 3, 4, 5) more time(s).
Short Row 5: K25 (27, 29, 29, 29), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 6: Knit to end of row.
Short Row 7: Knit to next wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap (see Notes), k1, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 8: Knit to end of row.
Cut Color A, and join Color B.
With Color B, repeat Short Rows 7 and 8 two more times.
Next Row (right side): Knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Short Row 9: K31 (33, 35, 35, 35), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 10: Knit to end of row.
Short Row 11: Knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 12: Knit to end of row.
Cut Color B, and join Color A.
With Color A, repeat Short Rows 11 and 12 two more times.
Short Row 13: K33 (35, 37, 37, 37), knitting stitches with their wraps as you come to them, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 14: Knit to end of row.
Short Row 15: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 16: Knit to end of row.
Repeat Short Rows 15 and 16 one (2, 3, 4, 5) more time(s).
Knit 4 rows even, knitting the final wrapped stitch with its wrap on the first row.
WORK WEDGES 2–5
Repeat Wedge 1 four more times, ending the last repeat by knitting 2 rows even (instead of 4).
With right side facing you, bind off all stitches.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.
SEW TOGETHER
Thread tail onto a tapestry needle, and with right side still facing you, sew needle through outermost purl bump of each garter ridge along the selvage that is closest to the tail. When you reach the corner, pull the yarn tight so that the selvage gathers together. Thread the yarn through the circle of stitches one more time to secure. Pull tight.
Still using the tail, sew together the bind-off and cast-on edges, making sure that the bottom corners will align as you go. Sew the bottom corners twice to secure. For help, visit our Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally tutorial (it’s the same idea for garter stitch!).
BRIM
NOTE: You can work the Brim in either Color A or Color B, depending on which style you prefer!
Using either Color A or Color B, cast on 19 (22, 25, 28, 31) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
With right side of hat facing you and beginning at seam, you will now join the Brim to the hat. Here’s how…
Row 1 (wrong side): K12 (14, 16, 18, 20), place marker (pm), slip 1 (see Notes) with yarn in front (wyif), knit to last stitch, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), pick up and knit 1 stitch (see Notes) from first garter ridge on right side of Body, pass slipped stitch over (psso) to join Brim to Body.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), knit to end of row.
Row 3: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to last stitch, slip 1 wyib, pick up and knit 1 stitch from next garter ridge of Body, psso to join Brim to Body.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you’ve picked up and knit a stitch from every garter ridge, ending with Row 3.
With right side of Brim facing you, bind off all stitches.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.
FINISHING
Thread tail onto a tapestry needle, and with right side still facing you, seam cast-on edge to bind-off edge using the same technique as you used for the Body.
Weave in ends and gently wet block. Fold Brim up along slip stitch line, and enjoy your hat!
MITTEN PATTERN
LEFT MITTEN
BODY
With Color A, using a basic Long Tail Cast On and leaving a long tail, cast on 81 (91, 103, 121, 127) stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K40 (45, 51, 60, 63), place marker (pm), p1, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 1 stitch before marker, make 1 right (m1R, see Notes), k1, slip marker (sm), make 1 left (m1L, see Notes), knit to end of row. [2 stitches increased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 (see Notes) with yarn in front (wyif), knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two (4, 6, 7, 9) more times. [87 (101, 117, 137, 147) stitches]
BABY, TODDLER, KID, + ADULT SMALL/MEDIUM SIZES ONLY
Next Row (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 (0, 0, 0, –) more time(s).
ALL SIZES
Cut Color A, and join Color B.
Short Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, sm, k29 (34, 39, 47, 49), twisted wrp-t (see Notes).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 3: Knit to marker, sm, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap (see Notes), k2, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Row 5: Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them.
Row 6: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 7: Knit to marker, sm, k33 (38, 43, 51, 53), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 8: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 9: Knit to marker, sm, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 10: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Cut Color B, and join Color A.
BABY, TODDLER, KID, + ADULT SMALL/MEDIUM SIZES ONLY
Next Row (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 (0, 0, 0, –) more time(s).
ALL SIZES
Next Row (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before marker, slip slip knit (ssk), k1, sm, knit 2 together (k2tog), knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last two rows 2 (4, 6, 7, 9) more times. [81 (91, 103, 121, 127) stitches remain]
Bind-Off Row (right side): K20 (24, 28, 35, 37), loosely bind off 41 (43, 47, 51, 53) stitches, k19 (23, 27, 34, 36) to end of row. [20 (24, 28, 35, 37) stitches on either side of bound-off stitches]
THUMB
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K20 (24, 28, 35, 37), use a Make 1 Backwards Loop (see Notes) to cast on 17 (19, 23, 27, 29) stitches, knit to end of row. [57 (67, 79, 97, 103) stitches]
Short Row 1 (right side): K29 (34, 40, 49, 52), pm, k10 (11, 13, 15, 16), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, k10 (11, 13, 15, 16), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to marker, sm, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, twisted wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 two (2, 3, 3, 3) more times.
Short Row 5 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before marker, ssk, k1, sm, k2tog, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, twisted wrp-t. [2 stitches decreased]
Short Row 6 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, twisted wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 one (2, 2, 3, 3) more time(s). [53 (61, 73, 89, 95) stitches remain]
Short Row 7 (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap as you come to it.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, remove marker, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap as you come to it.
With right side facing you, bind off all stitches loosely. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.
SEAMING
Use long tails to seam all edges together. For help, visit our Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally tutorial. It’s the same idea for garter stitch!
Go on to Finishing section, below.
RIGHT MITTEN
THUMB
With Color A, using a basic Long Tail Cast On and leaving a long tail, cast on 53 (61, 73, 89, 95) stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K26 (30, 36, 44, 47), pm, p1, knit to end of row.
Short Row 1 (right side): Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1R, k1, sm, m1L, k18 (20, 23, 29, 29), twisted wrp-t. [55 (63, 75, 91, 97) stitches]
Short Row 2: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, k19 (21, 24, 30, 30), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1R, k1, sm, m1L, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t. [2 stitches increased]
Short Row 4: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 zero (1, 1, 2, 2) more time(s). [57 (67, 79, 97, 103) stitches]
Short Row 5 (right): Knit to marker, sm, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 6 (wrong): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 three (3, 4, 4, 4) more times, removing marker on final row.
Short Row 7 (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap as you come to it.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, remove marker, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap as you come to it.
Bind-Off Row (right side): K20 (24, 28, 35, 37), loosely bind off 17 (19, 23, 27, 29) stitches, k19 (23, 27, 34, 36) to end of row. [20 (24, 28, 35, 37) stitches on either side of bound-off stitches]
BODY
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K20 (24, 28, 35, 37), use a Make 1 Backwards Loop to cast on 41 (43, 47, 51, 53) stitches, knit to end of row. [81 (91, 103, 121, 127) stitches]
Row 1 (right side): K41 (46, 52, 61, 64), pm, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Row 3: Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1R, k1, sm, m1L, knit to end of row. [2 stitches increased]
Row 4: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 two (4, 6, 7, 9) more times. [87 (101, 117, 137, 147) stitches]
BABY, TODDLER, KID, + ADULT SMALL/MEDIUM SIZES ONLY
Next Row (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 (0, 0, 0, –) more time(s).
ALL SIZES
Cut Color A, and join Color B.
Short Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, sm, k29 (34, 39, 47, 49), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 3: Knit to marker, sm, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Row 5: Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row.
Row 6: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 7: Knit to marker, sm, k33 (38, 43, 51, 53), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 8: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 9: Knit to marker, sm, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 10: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Cut Color B, and join Color A.
BABY, TODDLER, KID, + ADULT SMALL/MEDIUM SIZES ONLY
Next Row (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 (0, 0, 0, –) more time(s).
ALL SIZES
Next Row (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before marker, ssk, k1, sm, k2tog, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last two rows 2 (4, 6, 7, 9) more times. [81 (91, 103, 121, 127) stitches]
Bind-Off Row (right side): Bind off all stitches knitwise.
Seam as for Left Mitten.
FINISHING
Weave in remaining ends, and gently wet block both mittens.


LEARN ABOUT GOOD WOOL + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Good Wool adds loads of character, beauty, and integrity to this knit! A sport-weight yarn whose lofty 2-ply spin can also bloom into a light worsted/DK-weight yarn, Good Wool is made from 100% Andean highland wool, a toothy fiber with a deeply natural appeal. This yarn has a spectacular palette of complex and subtly varied colors, including 5 undyed shades. Very close to the hearts of our customers, Good Wool is a true knitter’s yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Good Wool knitting patterns and cast on!
More Sport-Weight Yarns + Light Worsted/DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of sport-weight yarn
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarn
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
This is somehow so nostalgic and retro. I absolutely adore the set! And I don’t ever make hats or mitts!
Lovely Hat+Mittens. Good as gifts or charity, too. Thank you!
Can I use mittens pattern for fingerless mittens?
Hi Lindy,
I’m sorry to say that due to the construction of this pattern, it is not possible to modify them into fingerless mittens. But as an alternative, I want to recommend the Flip Side Hand Warmers! These have a similar vertical garter stitch construction, but this pattern was specifically designed to be fingerless. It sounds like a pattern that’s much closer to what you’re looking for, and you could even modify the color changes to get stripes more similar to the All Roads Mittens. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Do you think the new Speckled Hen yarn would work for this pattern? I am wondering if the alpaca is a bit softer?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Margaret,
Speckled Hen would be a lovely choice for this pattern, and the alpaca will be a bit softer than the wool! I’d just recommend swatching beforehand to make sure that your gauge is accurate!
All the best,
Lili
Can I use German short rows?
Hi Phyllis,
Thanks for writing in. I’m afraid that German short rows are not the best choice for this pattern! Because the short rows are worked in both directions, there will be one side where the double stitches will be resolved on the wrong side of the mitten. That means that the lump created by knitting the double stitch as one stitch will appear on the outside of the mitten, which will look kind of messy!
I’d recommend sticking with the twisted wrap + turn short rows that are already in the pattern. If this technique is daunting, we’d be happy to help out, so don’t hesitate to reach out to us here or by sending an email to [email protected]!
All the best,
Lili
Can you please make this and other patterns available as a pdf? I use KnitCompanion for my projects but need a pdf format for that. Thank you!
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! Here’s how you can download a PDF version of any of our free patterns: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, click on the “PDF” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window. Once your PDF has finished downloading, just click the “Download PDF” button, and it will be saved to your computer!
All the best,
Lili
Is it possible to make this hat in one color only? How many stitches would I cast on for the hat in one color using the good wool which I have so much of.
Thanks you
Camille
Hi Camille,
You could definitely make this hat all in one color! You would cast on the number of stitches for your size for the BODY + CROWN plus the number of stitches for your size for the BRIM. Then you’d work the brim along with everything else to finish the hat all in one go!
All the best,
Lili
Where is the instruction for the Brim of the hat? I am confused. Cast on then attach . . . . . .
I don’t see where the brim is created.
Hi K,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry that this pattern has been so confusing! You’ll attach the brim to the hat as you knit it. At the end of each repeat of Row 3, you work a joining technique to attach what you have of the brim so far to the edge of the hat body. This entails picking up a stitch from the hat body edge and passing the previous stitch over it and off the needle. This method allows you to “join as you go” and knit the brim directly onto the hat!
All the best,
Lili
Do you have a tutorial for this technique? I am confused too. Thank you.
Hi Amy,
Yes, we do! You can find our Join As You Knit tutorial at this link. Just ah ends up that this tutorial uses our Prism Blanket as an example, and that pattern includes some yarn over increases. The joining technique is the same, but you’ll want to ignore the yarn overs!
I hope this helps, and please don’t hesitate to reach out to us if you have any specific questions about this joining technique. We’re always happy to help you move forward in your project!
All the best,
Lili
I’m at the making the brim point in the hat project. Is
where the brim joins the rest where it folds over the body of the hat or do you fold the brim in half? Can you sew both the body and the brim together at the same
time? Finally, is there a tutorial for the attachment stitch, attaching the brim to the hat? I’m having trouble picturing that!
Thanks for any suggestions. So far it’s fun to knit and looks great!
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out, and glad you’re having fun so far! The brim folds along the column of slipped stitches you create as you knit the brim. You’ll join the brim to the body of the hat as you knit it, and we do have a tutorial, which you can find right here. The project used for demonstration in this tutorial is a bit different since it includes increase stitches close to the join, but the steps to join as you knit are the same! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Many thanks! I will watch the video now!
Amy
greetings, I am at the brim part and wondering if I can knit the brim without sewing up the rest of the hat and then sew the brim and body at the same time. Also, re the stitch that is slipped on the brim in the middle of the row, does that somehow make the brim fold easier in that place? Is that necessary or can you make the brim wider if you want?
Hi Amy,
Great question, and yes, you can definitely knit the brim first and seam the entire hat together as the last step! I’d still recommend weaving in all the ends from the color changes first though, since those tails will just get in the way if left as they are. And the slipped stitch on the brim is meant to be where the brim folds! While this is necessary for a nice and neat fold, if you ant to make the brim wider, I’d suggest adding some stitches to the longer side of it (the section between the edge and the slipped stitch column).
All the best,
Lili
I’m having trouble with gauge for the Good Wool. Will it look funny if I go down to a 2?
Hi Liz,
I’m sorry to hear that you’ve been having trouble achieving the gauge, and you can absolutely try size 2 needles! Once you’re able to match the gauge, your knit fabric will look exactly as pictured, no matter what needles you’re using.
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I’m up to the brim and I’m confused about the slipped stitch in the middle. Slipping it with the yarn in front means that when I’m coming back in the other direction I’ve ended up with a wrap from bringing the yarn back round to the back after the slipped stitch. Does that make sense?! On my way back do I knit the extra together with the slipped stitch? Our ships it not be there in the first place?
May I add that I’ve absolutely loved knitting this hat so far? I’ve been in a bit of a beanie bender this year and this is my favorite. Such interesting construction. Thank you
Hi Val,
I’m so glad to hear that you’ve loved knitting this hat, and I’m happy to help answer your question! Slipping the stitch will leave a “float” going across the stitch, but you should ignore the float when you come to it. This is just a byproduct of slipping the stitch and is completely expected! The column of slipped stitches creates a nice crease for the brim to fold up along.
All the best,
Lili
I have a question concerning the width of the wedges. How many garter ridges wide should the main color of the wedge be?
My first was 22 ridges plus 5 ridges for the stripe. When I did the repeat of the pattern for the 2nd wedge the stripe was still 5 ridges wide but the main color was short at least four garter ridges. I thought that possibly I had not knitted the 4 rows even but doing so didn’t fix it so… I did something wonky in the 1st wedge I think.
At the end of the 1st wedge when I go back to make the 2nd wedge do I start at a specific place or go way back to row 1. Because I did that with the 2nd wedge and it isn’t as wide.
I am making the largest size. I frogged everything out and have started over again.
For all the years I have knit I am missing the boat on this pattern LOL!
Help!
Hi Margaret,
I’m sorry to hear that this pattern is giving you trouble, and I’m eager to help! For the largest size, you should have 10 MC garter ridges before the stripe (at the widest point), 5 CC ridges in the stripe, and 11 MC ridges after the stripe. Once you complete Wedge 1, you’ll begin Wedge 2 directly on Short Row 1. Let me know if this makes more sense!
All the best,
Lili
Lili it does!!
I started it again with fresh eyes and I do believe I am on track!
My ridges all count correctly and they actually did in my first attempt. I don’t know why it had such trouble with it lol!
Thank you for your excellent explanation!!
I love Purl Soho 🙂
It’s me again…
When you do the twisted wrap and turn are you finishing the row in the opposite direction or are you continuing in the direction you were going before you did the twisted wrap and turn??
I think this is where I am having issues. I actually counted two extra stitches after the third wedge. 🙄
I have googled everything imaginable and the only place I see ” twisted wrap-t” is here at Purl Soho. I was hopeful to find a video on YouTube so I could see if I was going in the right direction after wrapping the stitch.
I haven’t worked with short rows often only using them usually in a sock heel. So I seem to be really struggling with hat.
This is the third start over.
When I wrap the stitch I have been going back in the opposite direction as I normally would. But possibly this isn’t correct? I assume that the shaping wouldn’t happen in the same manner or maybe at all if I simply wrapped the stitch and continued to finish the row in the same direction.
I am going to try some larger yarn just to see what it looks like that way.
Thanks for the help I know you will give me 😊
Hi Margaret,
A twisted wrap + turn short row is exactly the same as a regular wrap + turn short row, except for how you move the working yarn when you do the wrap! Other than that, it works in exactly the same way: You knit partway through the row, then work the twisted wrap + turn, and then work back the way you came. The row is still “short,” so you do finish it in the opposite direction.
All the best,
Lili
Lili thank you for your patience and your help.
I finally put the hat down and knit something else for a day or two. When I came back to the hat I found that when I CAREFULLY read the instructions I was missing rows. I should have had 14 rows by the end of my reps of rows 3-4 and I didn’t.
Amazing how it is that things work out when you actually read and count.
🙄
lol!
I should celebrate by buying more yarn. 😊
Margaret
You’re so welcome! I’m glad to hear that you’re on your way with this pattern again!
All the best,
Lili
Dear Lili,
I am just beginning to knit your BEAUTIFUL hat and mitten set as a Christmas gift for my daughter, and feel compelled to write and let you know I have never read more clear and precise knitting instructions than yours! Your explanations to knitters’ questions are equally as sublime. (The way you describe the ubiquitous M1 backward loop for instance…describing where the working yarn, or strand of yarn, is positioned in relation to the ball of yarn is eloquent 😀!) I love the feel and color of the yarn as I knit it and venture into a satisfying construction experience. My confidence in having ultimate success is only bolstered by your instructions and guidance as necessary. Thankyou! I’m so happy to have found you!
Hi Cathy,
Thank you so much for sharing your kind words! It means so much to me to hear that you’re enjoying this pattern, and I hope your daughter loves the hat and mittens.
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
How many rows should there be of the brim?
From the photos it looks like it is many (12? 20?)
Thanks for your help.
Hi Karyn,
Thanks for writing in! Ultimately you will want to knit 2 rows for each ridge you are seeing of body stitches. Since the short rows are worked all the way down to the bottom of the hat, this means each wedge will have 32(36,40,44,48) rows that you will need to connect with brim stitches. When I multiply that times 5 (for each of the 5 wedges) this means your brim will have 158,(178,198,218,238) rows total to match up to each row of body stitches. I hope this helps but if you need further instruction, please feel free to let us know!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi Lili,
I love this hat! I’ve been knitting it for my husband as a Christmas gift, in the Adult Small/Medium size. Since I used Good Wool and the recommended size 4 needles, I skipped the gauge test.
However, I’ve just finished my fourth wedge and the circumference is already at 20 inches! This seems too large to add a fifth wedge, given that I’ve been meticulously following the instructions.
What should I do now? If I sew it with only four wedges, the instructions for the brim won’t align. Could you either advise me on how to modify the brim, or suggest another solution to this issue?
Thank you
Anca
Hi Anca,
Thanks for writing in! We are so happy you are working on this project. It sounds like you possibly got a different gauge from the pattern. We always suggest making a gauge swatch to ensure that tension matches as this can vary greatly from knitter to knitter, even with the recommended needle size. I myself tend to be a tight knitter so I often have to go up a needle size from what is recommended in patterns to make sure I am able to get the same result.
Seeing as you are pretty far in the pattern, we recommend knitting fewer rows of garter stitch for your brim. Depending on which size you are making, you will knit 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) rows per wedge on your brim. I hope this helps but if you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to let us know and we will be happy to help!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi Lili-
Quick question. I knit the hat and when I finished the brim and folded it at the wyif ridge, it made the hat very long and covered much of the hat. I almost thought of just forgetting the brim, but it’s a great part of the design.
Can you suggest what I might be doing incorrectly and a solution for adding the brim to the finished hat which fits well and is a good length?
Thank you!
Janna
Hi Janna,
I can absolutely help with that! I don’t think you’re doing anything wrong, this design just has a relatively long brim. But there’s an easy way to shorten it! If you cast on fewer stitches when beginning the brim, it’ll fold up at a shorter height once you finish it. This would require you to undo all your hard work on the brim unfortunately, but it might be worth it so that you’re completely happy with the length of your brim!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili- that’s exactly what I did and it turned out beautifully! I also added a few stitches in 5 sections, along the end of the brim, to hold it in place. Working on the mittens now and then making it again because I love it so much!
Happy New Year!
Hi – I’m making the mittens and am at the step of casting on the 1st (left) thumb. Per the last instruction, I have 35 stitches on either side of the bound off edge, so I am completely confused about how to follow the thumb instructions – I knit 35 (up to bound off section), cast on 27 stitches to set up the thumb, and now if I knit the remaining stitches in the row, it would only be 35 (other side of the bound off section. How do I knit 97 stitches? Do I knit into the bound off edge?? Is that a thing? Thanks for your help.
Hi Margot,
Happy to help answer your question! The 35 stitches on each side plus the 27 stitches you cast on add up to 97 total stitches. After you complete the Set-Up Row for the thumb, you will end up having 97 live stitches on your needles! The numbers in brackets at the end of this row just let you know what your final stitch count should be after completing the row–but you don’t knit all of them at once at this point!
All the best,
Lili
This is probably the most fun I have had knitting a hat. The pattern is fantastic, the design is adorable and it was interesting and super fun to knit! I’m on to the mittens soon. Thank you so much, Lili!
Hi Janna,
Wow, thank you so much! It made my day to hear how much you’re enjoying my design!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lily,
I just finished the crown of the hat… maybe this is an obvious question, but should I weave in the ends of all the wedges I knitted before working the brim portion of the hat?
Thank you
Hi Cathy,
That’s a great question, and I’m glad you asked! I would highly recommend weaving in the ends from all the wedges before beginning the brim. This helps make the stitches at the edge of the body of the hat more defined and easier to pick up as you knit the brim!
All the best,
Lili
Lili-
One more comment….When I sewed the brim, I did it inside out so the flat side is showing when I turn it up. Your pattern says to sew it with the right side facing…..is there another technique I should use? Your way has a ridge on that side.
Thanks!
Janna
Hi Janna,
Thanks for your question. If you would like to try knitting your brim stitches separately, you can also check out our Seaming Garter Stitch tutorial as an alternative for attaching your brim. I hope this helps but let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Dear Gavriella,
I have completed the knitting of main part of the hat and getting into the brim. I have a few questions:
1. Do I sew the edges of the hat together before I begin the brim?
2. When Do I sew the top of the hat? The directions are there but I can’t seem to figure if there is an order.
3. Where on the hat do I begin the attachment process of the brim? Is there a tutorial that is specific to the attachment of the brim? I have read through all the previous questions and there are a large number directed toward brim attachment.
Thank you in advance for your guidance?
Hi Joan,
Thank you for writing in! After you complete all five wedges for your hat, you will sew the cast-on and bind-off edges together to form your hat. This step includes closing the top of your hat before beginning on your brim. Unfortunately, there is not a specific tutorial for the brim of this pattern but you can see the technique here under the Along A Vertical Edge: Garter Stitch, Into the Ridge section. You can start the brim process at the seam of your hat in either Color A or Color B, depending on which style you prefer! I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you for your reply. A couple more questions: I read in another inquiry about completely sewing the hat after the brim attachment was completed. Do you recommend that approach as well?
Another post response said that “you will want to knit 2 rows for each ridge you are seeing of body stitches” indicating that each brim will have for the largest size “238 rows to match up to the body of the hat”. Can you confirm if that number of rows is correct? Or what should it be?
Thank you, in advance, for clearing up my brim confusion.
Hi Joan,
If you wanted to knit a separate strip for your brim, you could absolutely go that route but I would recommend completing the pattern as written to give the best result or to get a result that looks identical to the samples we have knit in the photographs. Depending on the size you are making, the number of rows will vary. When working in garter stitch, you have to knit two rows to complete one ridge. So each ridge that you have on your hat, you will want to do the same for the brim to match up evenly! I hope this helps!
Thank you for your reply. A couple of additional questions:
1. In one of the prior questions about the brim, the reply said you could seam the entire hat after the brim was attached? Can you confirm that? It might be easier for me!
2. In another one of the prior questions, the reply indicated that there are a total of 48 rows x 5 wedges which equals 240 rows for the brim. Is this correct! If yes, do I attach to the brim on 2 stitches for each front and back garter row?
Thank you, in advance, for your guidance
Hi Joan,
Gavriella is off work today, so I’m stepping in to answer your additional questions!
1. You can definitely seam the side of the hat after working the brim! I would recommend, however, weaving in all your other ends before beginning the brim. This just gets them out of the way to make it easier to see the garter ridge bumps at the edge!
2. The number of rows per wedge depends on the size you’re making. Can you let me know which size you’re working on? In general though, I find that it’s easier not to pay attention to row/ridge count as you work the brim! All you need to do to make sure you get the correct row/ridge count in the end is work the joining method at the end each garter ridge of the hat body. As long as you pick up one stitch per garter ridge at the end of each wrong side row of the brim, you’ll end up with the correct row/ridge count! You can see a demonstration of picking up stitches in the garter ridge right here (in the “Along A Vertical Edge: Garter Stitch, Into the Ridge” section).
All the best,
Lili
Hi! Quick question. When knitting the M1R & M1L, I am a little confused from the added layer of the slip stitch, especially on the M1R. In the demo video, it’s super self explanatory which bar you pick up, but with the slipped stitch on the wrong side it’s not. Do you ignore the slip bar even though that’s the bar coming from the last knit stitch before you M1R? Do you pull the bar coming from that stitch or the last knit bar on your center stitch next to the marker?
Hi Lulu,
That is a great question! You will want to ignore that little bar that is created by the slip stitch and instead work into the correct bar right below it.
I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
That helped! Since I was early in I actually started over and put the additions one stitch away from the center instead of next to it! Doesn’t look as perfect but was easier for me haha. Thank you for your help!!
Greetings! I am on my second hat with the same two balls of yarn but I switched main colors. One issue with the first hat is that with the brim it is huge! I made toddler size but it fits my son in law who has a very large head. On this new one I want to do a traditional brim, knit going around the circumference. How many stitches do you think I should pick up? Oh, I made a baby size but I am adding one extra wedge since it seems a bit small going around my head as it is. I love working with this yarn though. It’s so soft for wool!
Hi Amy,
Thank you for writing in! I would recommend checking your gauge to be sure it matches the one of the pattern. This could be the reason your hat is fitting quite large or too small. A ribbed brim sounds like a wonderful idea! To do this, you will want to pick up each of the stitches as you would in the original pattern, and just be sure you are working over a multiple of 2 for a 1×1 rib, or a multiple of 4 for a 2×2 rib! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thanks. I will try both – to check the gauge and just pick up stitches along the base. It’s a very fun pattern to work. Much more interesting that in the round!
Hat-I am confused by the instructions in “sew together”. In the first paragraph am I just running the yarn along 1 side or actually seaming the 2? It says to seam twice
In the picture I don’t see a gathered seam so what is that instruction about?
Thanks so much for another great pattern.
Hi Mimi,
You will use your tail to seam the two sides together. The instructions to ‘gather’ are just letting you know to close up the seam at the corner to ensure a nice clean join. I hope this helps!
Happy making,
Gavriella
it does and thanks. You guys are the best!!
You are very welcome!
Hello I am so excited to knit the mittens but my gauge 20stitches/4 inches and I want to make size adult small/medium.
Do you think I can just knit the kid size and will end up with the correct fit?
Thank you from Spain!
Hi Marina,
Thanks for writing in! The Toddler size would actually be the best choice. At your gauge, that size will knit up to just about the finished dimensions of the Adult Small/Medium!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you always for your wonderful support and projects.
Hello,
do I understand it right, that in the first rows of the wedges one normal stitch is between every twisted and turned stitch? – I run into trouble with that when, with colour B I knit the next warped stitch, k1 and: here I am supposed to warp and twist, but it already is from the row underneath … what I’m I doing wrong?
Hi Marianne,
Thank you for writing in although we are sorry to hear you are running into issues here. Could you please send a photo of your project to [email protected] so we can have a deeper look? We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Gavriella
I will, thank you so much for your help! 🙂
Hi there! I’ve gotten to the brim and I am confused about picking up stitches on the body of the hat. The pattern says “with the right side of the hat facing you and beginning at seam.” Could you clarify the orientation of the hat for picking up stitches? Is the top of the hat pointing away or towards me? And am I working right to left or left to right as I pick up stitches? Hope this makes sense. Thank you!
Hi Sadie,
You can see how this is done by visiting our Join as you go tutorial. This tutorial uses our Prism Blanket as an example, and that pattern includes some yarn over increases. The joining technique is the same, but you’ll want to ignore the yarn overs!
I hope this helps, and please don’t hesitate to reach out to us if you have any specific questions about this joining technique.
All the best,
Gavriella
I am knitting the left mitten, I reached the twisted wrapt-t part, in row 5 it says: “ Row 5: Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them.” However it doesn’t say I need to do a twisted wrp for this row, but it does in the other odd rows (1,3,7,9) . Was this a typo? Or do I not do twisted wrp-t in this row?
Thank you.
Hi Abeer,
Thanks for writing in! Nope, on Row 5, you will not be working a wrap + turn. This is a full row, and it creates the stripe of the Contrast Color that extends all the way down the mitten, from front to back!
All the best,
Lili
Thank so much, that makes more sense now.
Hi.
I’m working on the right mitten row 5 of the body. It says to knit to the end, but it doesn’t mention what to do with the wrap & turn from row 3. Do I knit the wrap and turn?
Kim
Hi Kim,
You can either knit the wrapped stitch with its wrap, or just knit normally over it! Since it’s garter stitch, the wrap actually blends in perfectly with the garter bumps.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much.
Hey. when I knit the 4 even rows after repeating row 15 + 16, my hat gets af funny top and not round as in the picture when i sew it together. Is there something i am doing wrong?
Hi Mette,
Would you mind sharing a photo of your work with us? You can email it to us directly at [email protected]. That way, we can better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili