All Roads Hat + Mittens
While most hat and mitten patterns are knit in the round, there are some advantages to taking the flat route. For our All Roads Hat + Mittens, designed by Lili Tobias, working back and forth in rows allows you to easily create colorful stripes without any fancy shenanigans. It also means you can work garter stitch without purling, and maybe best of all, you can forego double pointed needles, too. All roads are leading to casting on for this charming set!
Lili has you knit your All Roads Hat in five wedges, using short rows to shape the crown and adding to the middle of each wedge a contrast stripe that thins into a line and converges at the peak with the other four stripes. At the end of the fifth wedge, you sew the cast-on and bind-off edges together to form your hat.
You then cast on a new piece for the brim and attach it to the hat as you knit it, a design detail with a few benefits. Attaching the brim in this way creates a crisp fold, as well as a seam that provides a little extra structure to super-stretchy garter stitch fabric. You also get to choose if you want the brim of your hat to be the main color or the contrast color. Who doesn’t love options? In the end, you seam the two ends of the brim, and you have arrived at a very cool hat!
You knit the mittens in much the same way, casting on and knitting back and forth in garter stitch, increasing and decreasing to shape the tips of the fingers and using short rows to shape the base of the palm and thumb. You begin the left mitten with the hand and the right with the thumb, but they both have that eye-catching racing stripe right down the center. It thins into a line on the inside wrist, cleverly tying together with the design of the hat.
Our Good Wool has the perfect palette and characteristics to help you answer the call of the open road. It is 100% Andean highland wool, which means Good Wool comes from sheep who live in the high altitudes of the Peruvian Altiplano, where it’s common to see temperatures well below freezing in the winter months. Adapting to these conditions, the wool these sheep make is particularly durable, springy, warm, and given all this, softer than you may expect!
With two loosely spun plies, Good Wool has a ton of loft and bounce, and because its fibers aren’t held in place by a tight twist, they fluff out a bit once it’s washed (we often call this “blooming”). This makes it a wonderfully warm and cushiony choice!
When you want a striking palette for color play, Good Wool has everything you need.
Good Wool comes in five colors grown by the sheep themselves, plus a rainbow of gorgeous hues dyed over these natural shades, creating beautifully heathered colors full of depth. With almost forty colors to choose from, you’re sure to find a pair that gets your wheels in motion!
If you’re casting on for the set, you need one skein of your contrast color and one or two of your main color, depending on your size and brim color. So, find your favorites, and you’re off!
Designed for Purl Soho by Lili Tobias. Lili spends most of her time knitting, listening to music, or doing both at the same time. She also happens to be our wonderful Customer Service Coordinator!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoAllRoadsHatAndMittens, and #PurlSohoGoodWool. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
HAT
- Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% Andean highland wool. Each skein is approximately 383 yards/100 grams.
- If working Brim in Color A…
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 155 (195, 245, 295, 345) total yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 35 (40, 40, 45, 45) total yards required
- If working Brim in Color B…
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 85 (110, 135, 155, 175) total yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 105 (130, 155, 185, 215) total yards required
- If working Brim in Color A…
- US 4 (3.5 mm) 24-inch circular needles
- A stitch marker
MITTENS
- Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% Andean highland wool. Each skein is 383 yards/ 100 grams.
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 110 (140, 205, 260, 305) total yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 20 (20, 25, 30, 30) total yards required
- US 4 (3.5 mm) 24-inch circular needles
- A stitch marker
NOTE: To make a Hat + Mittens set you’ll need 1 (1, 1-2, 2, 2) skein(s) of Color A and 1 skein of Color B, depending on your Brim color!
GAUGE
26½ stitches and 53 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
SIZES
HAT
Baby (Toddler, Kid, Adult Small/Medium, Adult Medium/Large)
- Finished Circumference: 12¾ (14¼, 15¾, 17¼, 18¾) inches, comfortably stretching up to 5 inches
- Finished Height (uncuffed): 8¾ (9¾, 10¾, 11½, 12½) inches
- Finished Height (cuffed): 7 (7½, 8¼, 8¾, 9¼) inches
MITTENS
Baby (Toddler, Kid, Adult Small/Medium, Adult Medium/Large)
- Finished Palm Circumference: 4¾ (5¼, 6½, 7, 7¾) inches
- Finished Wrist Circumference: 4 (4¾, 6, 6½, 7) inches
- Finished Length: 6½ (7½, 8¾, 10¼, 11) inches
We knit our samples in the following colors and sizes…
Toddler size: Color A is Heirloom White and Color B is Pink Salt (We used Color A for the Brim.)
Kid size: Color A is Vintage Rose and Color B is Desert Blue (We used Color B for the Brim.)
Adult Small/ Medium size: Color A is Winter Grass and Color B is Barn Door (We used Color A for the Brim.)
NOTES
CONSTRUCTION
Both Hat and Mittens are worked flat back and forth in rows, using short rows to shape the Crown for the Hat and the base of the Palm and the Thumb for the Mittens. For the Mittens, you will begin the Left Mitten with the Hand and begin the Right Mitten with the Thumb.
TWISTED WRP-T (TWISTED WRAP + TURN)
Bring yarn between needles to front of work, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Then, bring yarn to back of work, and return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn between needles to front of work, and finally, turn work so opposite side is facing you, and working yarn is at the back of the work.
NOTE: For help with this technique, visit our Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap pattern and scroll down to the Notes section.
KNITTING WRAPPED STITCH WITH WRAP
Use tip of right needle to pick up the wrap, inserting needle from front to back. Place the wrap onto left needle, so wrap is first stitch on needle and wrapped stitch is second, then knit the two together as you normally would.
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all stitches purlwise.
PICKING UP STITCHES
For the cleanest pick-up edge, insert the needle into the outer most bump of the garter ridge edge.
NOTE: Visit purlsoho.com/create/picking-up-stitches and scroll down to the “Along A Vertical Edge: Garter Stitch, Into the Ridge” section to see exactly how to pick up stitches for this project.
MAKE 1 BACKWARDS LOOP
With working yarn, create a loop so the strand of yarn closer to the ball of yarn is in front, insert needle from front to back of loop. Pull the yarn to tighten the loop on the needle.
NOTE: For more information on this technique, please visit our Make 1 Backwards Loop Tutorial.
M1R + M1L (MAKE 1 RIGHT + LEFT)
Make 1 Right: Use left needle to pick up strand (or “bar”) between last stitch and next stitch, from back to front. Knit into front leg. [1 stitch increased]
Make 1 Left: Use left needle to pick up strand between last stitch and next stitch, from front to back. Knit into back leg. [1 stitch increased]
NOTE: For more help with these increases, visit our Make 1 Right (M1R) + Make 1 Left (M1L) tutorial.
HAT PATTERN
BODY + CROWN
With Color A, cast on 39 (43, 47, 49, 51) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
WORK WEDGE 1
Short Row 1 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, twisted wrp-t (see Notes).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Short Row 3: Knit to two stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Knit to end of row.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 one (2, 3, 4, 5) more time(s).
Short Row 5: K25 (27, 29, 29, 29), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 6: Knit to end of row.
Short Row 7: Knit to next wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap (see Notes), k1, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 8: Knit to end of row.
Cut Color A, and join Color B.
With Color B, repeat Short Rows 7 and 8 two more times.
Next Row (right side): Knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Short Row 9: K31 (33, 35, 35, 35), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 10: Knit to end of row.
Short Row 11: Knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 12: Knit to end of row.
Cut Color B, and join Color A.
With Color A, repeat Short Rows 11 and 12 two more times.
Short Row 13: K33 (35, 37, 37, 37), knitting stitches with their wraps as you come to them, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 14: Knit to end of row.
Short Row 15: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 16: Knit to end of row.
Repeat Short Rows 15 and 16 one (2, 3, 4, 5) more time(s).
Knit 4 rows even, knitting the final wrapped stitch with its wrap on the first row.
WORK WEDGES 2–5
Repeat Wedge 1 four more times, ending the last repeat by knitting 2 rows even (instead of 4).
With right side facing you, bind off all stitches.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.
SEW TOGETHER
Thread tail onto a tapestry needle, and with right side still facing you, sew needle through outermost purl bump of each garter ridge along the selvage that is closest to the tail. When you reach the corner, pull the yarn tight so that the selvage gathers together. Thread the yarn through the circle of stitches one more time to secure. Pull tight.
Still using the tail, sew together the bind-off and cast-on edges, making sure that the bottom corners will align as you go. Sew the bottom corners twice to secure. For help, visit our Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally tutorial (it’s the same idea for garter stitch!).
BRIM
NOTE: You can work the Brim in either Color A or Color B, depending on which style you prefer!
Using either Color A or Color B, cast on 19 (22, 25, 28, 31) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
With right side of hat facing you and beginning at seam, you will now join the Brim to the hat. Here’s how…
Row 1 (wrong side): K12 (14, 16, 18, 20), place marker (pm), slip 1 (see Notes) with yarn in front (wyif), knit to last stitch, slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), pick up and knit 1 stitch (see Notes) from first garter ridge on right side of Body, pass slipped stitch over (psso) to join Brim to Body.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), knit to end of row.
Row 3: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to last stitch, slip 1 wyib, pick up and knit 1 stitch from next garter ridge of Body, psso to join Brim to Body.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you’ve picked up and knit a stitch from every garter ridge, ending with Row 3.
With right side of Brim facing you, bind off all stitches.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.
FINISHING
Thread tail onto a tapestry needle, and with right side still facing you, seam cast-on edge to bind-off edge using the same technique as you used for the Body.
Weave in ends and gently wet block. Fold Brim up along slip stitch line, and enjoy your hat!
MITTEN PATTERN
LEFT MITTEN
BODY
With Color A, using a basic Long Tail Cast On and leaving a long tail, cast on 81 (91, 103, 121, 127) stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K40 (45, 51, 60, 63), place marker (pm), p1, knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to 1 stitch before marker, make 1 right (m1R, see Notes), k1, slip marker (sm), make 1 left (m1L, see Notes), knit to end of row. [2 stitches increased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 (see Notes) with yarn in front (wyif), knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two (4, 6, 7, 9) more times. [87 (101, 117, 137, 147) stitches]
BABY, TODDLER, KID, + ADULT SMALL/MEDIUM SIZES ONLY
Next Row (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 (0, 0, 0, –) more time(s).
ALL SIZES
Cut Color A, and join Color B.
Short Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, sm, k29 (34, 39, 47, 49), twisted wrp-t (see Notes).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 3: Knit to marker, sm, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap (see Notes), k2, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Row 5: Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them.
Row 6: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 7: Knit to marker, sm, k33 (38, 43, 51, 53), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 8: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 9: Knit to marker, sm, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 10: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Cut Color B, and join Color A.
BABY, TODDLER, KID, + ADULT SMALL/MEDIUM SIZES ONLY
Next Row (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 (0, 0, 0, –) more time(s).
ALL SIZES
Next Row (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before marker, slip slip knit (ssk), k1, sm, knit 2 together (k2tog), knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last two rows 2 (4, 6, 7, 9) more times. [81 (91, 103, 121, 127) stitches remain]
Bind-Off Row (right side): K20 (24, 28, 35, 37), loosely bind off 41 (43, 47, 51, 53) stitches, k19 (23, 27, 34, 36) to end of row. [20 (24, 28, 35, 37) stitches on either side of bound-off stitches]
THUMB
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K20 (24, 28, 35, 37), use a Make 1 Backwards Loop (see Notes) to cast on 17 (19, 23, 27, 29) stitches, knit to end of row. [57 (67, 79, 97, 103) stitches]
Short Row 1 (right side): K29 (34, 40, 49, 52), pm, k10 (11, 13, 15, 16), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, k10 (11, 13, 15, 16), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to marker, sm, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, twisted wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 two (2, 3, 3, 3) more times.
Short Row 5 (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before marker, ssk, k1, sm, k2tog, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, twisted wrp-t. [2 stitches decreased]
Short Row 6 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k1, twisted wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 one (2, 2, 3, 3) more time(s). [53 (61, 73, 89, 95) stitches remain]
Short Row 7 (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap as you come to it.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, remove marker, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap as you come to it.
With right side facing you, bind off all stitches loosely. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.
SEAMING
Use long tails to seam all edges together. For help, visit our Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally tutorial. It’s the same idea for garter stitch!
Go on to Finishing section, below.
RIGHT MITTEN
THUMB
With Color A, using a basic Long Tail Cast On and leaving a long tail, cast on 53 (61, 73, 89, 95) stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K26 (30, 36, 44, 47), pm, p1, knit to end of row.
Short Row 1 (right side): Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1R, k1, sm, m1L, k18 (20, 23, 29, 29), twisted wrp-t. [55 (63, 75, 91, 97) stitches]
Short Row 2: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, k19 (21, 24, 30, 30), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1R, k1, sm, m1L, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t. [2 stitches increased]
Short Row 4: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 zero (1, 1, 2, 2) more time(s). [57 (67, 79, 97, 103) stitches]
Short Row 5 (right): Knit to marker, sm, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 6 (wrong): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 three (3, 4, 4, 4) more times, removing marker on final row.
Short Row 7 (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap as you come to it.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, remove marker, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap as you come to it.
Bind-Off Row (right side): K20 (24, 28, 35, 37), loosely bind off 17 (19, 23, 27, 29) stitches, k19 (23, 27, 34, 36) to end of row. [20 (24, 28, 35, 37) stitches on either side of bound-off stitches]
BODY
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K20 (24, 28, 35, 37), use a Make 1 Backwards Loop to cast on 41 (43, 47, 51, 53) stitches, knit to end of row. [81 (91, 103, 121, 127) stitches]
Row 1 (right side): K41 (46, 52, 61, 64), pm, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Row 3: Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1R, k1, sm, m1L, knit to end of row. [2 stitches increased]
Row 4: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 two (4, 6, 7, 9) more times. [87 (101, 117, 137, 147) stitches]
BABY, TODDLER, KID, + ADULT SMALL/MEDIUM SIZES ONLY
Next Row (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 (0, 0, 0, –) more time(s).
ALL SIZES
Cut Color A, and join Color B.
Short Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, sm, k29 (34, 39, 47, 49), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 3: Knit to marker, sm, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k2, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Row 5: Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row.
Row 6: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 7: Knit to marker, sm, k33 (38, 43, 51, 53), twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 8: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Short Row 9: Knit to marker, sm, knit to 2 stitches before wrapped stitch, twisted wrp-t.
Short Row 10: Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Cut Color B, and join Color A.
BABY, TODDLER, KID, + ADULT SMALL/MEDIUM SIZES ONLY
Next Row (right side): Knit to marker, sm, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them.
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last 2 rows 1 (0, 0, 0, –) more time(s).
ALL SIZES
Next Row (right side): Knit to 3 stitches before marker, ssk, k1, sm, k2tog, knit to end of row. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (wrong side): Knit to marker, sm, slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat last two rows 2 (4, 6, 7, 9) more times. [81 (91, 103, 121, 127) stitches]
Bind-Off Row (right side): Bind off all stitches knitwise.
Seam as for Left Mitten.
FINISHING
Weave in remaining ends, and gently wet block both mittens.
This is somehow so nostalgic and retro. I absolutely adore the set! And I don’t ever make hats or mitts!
Lovely Hat+Mittens. Good as gifts or charity, too. Thank you!
Can I use mittens pattern for fingerless mittens?
Hi Lindy,
I’m sorry to say that due to the construction of this pattern, it is not possible to modify them into fingerless mittens. But as an alternative, I want to recommend the Flip Side Hand Warmers! These have a similar vertical garter stitch construction, but this pattern was specifically designed to be fingerless. It sounds like a pattern that’s much closer to what you’re looking for, and you could even modify the color changes to get stripes more similar to the All Roads Mittens. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Do you think the new Speckled Hen yarn would work for this pattern? I am wondering if the alpaca is a bit softer?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Margaret,
Speckled Hen would be a lovely choice for this pattern, and the alpaca will be a bit softer than the wool! I’d just recommend swatching beforehand to make sure that your gauge is accurate!
All the best,
Lili
Can I use German short rows?
Hi Phyllis,
Thanks for writing in. I’m afraid that German short rows are not the best choice for this pattern! Because the short rows are worked in both directions, there will be one side where the double stitches will be resolved on the wrong side of the mitten. That means that the lump created by knitting the double stitch as one stitch will appear on the outside of the mitten, which will look kind of messy!
I’d recommend sticking with the twisted wrap + turn short rows that are already in the pattern. If this technique is daunting, we’d be happy to help out, so don’t hesitate to reach out to us here or by sending an email to customerservice@purlsoho.com!
All the best,
Lili
Can you please make this and other patterns available as a pdf? I use KnitCompanion for my projects but need a pdf format for that. Thank you!
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! Here’s how you can download a PDF version of any of our free patterns: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, click on the “PDF” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window. Once your PDF has finished downloading, just click the “Download PDF” button, and it will be saved to your computer!
All the best,
Lili
Is it possible to make this hat in one color only? How many stitches would I cast on for the hat in one color using the good wool which I have so much of.
Thanks you
Camille
Hi Camille,
You could definitely make this hat all in one color! You would cast on the number of stitches for your size for the BODY + CROWN plus the number of stitches for your size for the BRIM. Then you’d work the brim along with everything else to finish the hat all in one go!
All the best,
Lili
Where is the instruction for the Brim of the hat? I am confused. Cast on then attach . . . . . .
I don’t see where the brim is created.
Hi K,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry that this pattern has been so confusing! You’ll attach the brim to the hat as you knit it. At the end of each repeat of Row 3, you work a joining technique to attach what you have of the brim so far to the edge of the hat body. This entails picking up a stitch from the hat body edge and passing the previous stitch over it and off the needle. This method allows you to “join as you go” and knit the brim directly onto the hat!
All the best,
Lili
I’m at the making the brim point in the hat project. Is
where the brim joins the rest where it folds over the body of the hat or do you fold the brim in half? Can you sew both the body and the brim together at the same
time? Finally, is there a tutorial for the attachment stitch, attaching the brim to the hat? I’m having trouble picturing that!
Thanks for any suggestions. So far it’s fun to knit and looks great!
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out, and glad you’re having fun so far! The brim folds along the column of slipped stitches you create as you knit the brim. You’ll join the brim to the body of the hat as you knit it, and we do have a tutorial, which you can find right here. The project used for demonstration in this tutorial is a bit different since it includes increase stitches close to the join, but the steps to join as you knit are the same! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Many thanks! I will watch the video now!
Amy
greetings, I am at the brim part and wondering if I can knit the brim without sewing up the rest of the hat and then sew the brim and body at the same time. Also, re the stitch that is slipped on the brim in the middle of the row, does that somehow make the brim fold easier in that place? Is that necessary or can you make the brim wider if you want?
Hi Amy,
Great question, and yes, you can definitely knit the brim first and seam the entire hat together as the last step! I’d still recommend weaving in all the ends from the color changes first though, since those tails will just get in the way if left as they are. And the slipped stitch on the brim is meant to be where the brim folds! While this is necessary for a nice and neat fold, if you ant to make the brim wider, I’d suggest adding some stitches to the longer side of it (the section between the edge and the slipped stitch column).
All the best,
Lili
I’m having trouble with gauge for the Good Wool. Will it look funny if I go down to a 2?
Hi Liz,
I’m sorry to hear that you’ve been having trouble achieving the gauge, and you can absolutely try size 2 needles! Once you’re able to match the gauge, your knit fabric will look exactly as pictured, no matter what needles you’re using.
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I’m up to the brim and I’m confused about the slipped stitch in the middle. Slipping it with the yarn in front means that when I’m coming back in the other direction I’ve ended up with a wrap from bringing the yarn back round to the back after the slipped stitch. Does that make sense?! On my way back do I knit the extra together with the slipped stitch? Our ships it not be there in the first place?
May I add that I’ve absolutely loved knitting this hat so far? I’ve been in a bit of a beanie bender this year and this is my favorite. Such interesting construction. Thank you
Hi Val,
I’m so glad to hear that you’ve loved knitting this hat, and I’m happy to help answer your question! Slipping the stitch will leave a “float” going across the stitch, but you should ignore the float when you come to it. This is just a byproduct of slipping the stitch and is completely expected! The column of slipped stitches creates a nice crease for the brim to fold up along.
All the best,
Lili
I have a question concerning the width of the wedges. How many garter ridges wide should the main color of the wedge be?
My first was 22 ridges plus 5 ridges for the stripe. When I did the repeat of the pattern for the 2nd wedge the stripe was still 5 ridges wide but the main color was short at least four garter ridges. I thought that possibly I had not knitted the 4 rows even but doing so didn’t fix it so… I did something wonky in the 1st wedge I think.
At the end of the 1st wedge when I go back to make the 2nd wedge do I start at a specific place or go way back to row 1. Because I did that with the 2nd wedge and it isn’t as wide.
I am making the largest size. I frogged everything out and have started over again.
For all the years I have knit I am missing the boat on this pattern LOL!
Help!
Hi Margaret,
I’m sorry to hear that this pattern is giving you trouble, and I’m eager to help! For the largest size, you should have 10 MC garter ridges before the stripe (at the widest point), 5 CC ridges in the stripe, and 11 MC ridges after the stripe. Once you complete Wedge 1, you’ll begin Wedge 2 directly on Short Row 1. Let me know if this makes more sense!
All the best,
Lili
Lili it does!!
I started it again with fresh eyes and I do believe I am on track!
My ridges all count correctly and they actually did in my first attempt. I don’t know why it had such trouble with it lol!
Thank you for your excellent explanation!!
I love Purl Soho 🙂
It’s me again…
When you do the twisted wrap and turn are you finishing the row in the opposite direction or are you continuing in the direction you were going before you did the twisted wrap and turn??
I think this is where I am having issues. I actually counted two extra stitches after the third wedge. 🙄
I have googled everything imaginable and the only place I see ” twisted wrap-t” is here at Purl Soho. I was hopeful to find a video on YouTube so I could see if I was going in the right direction after wrapping the stitch.
I haven’t worked with short rows often only using them usually in a sock heel. So I seem to be really struggling with hat.
This is the third start over.
When I wrap the stitch I have been going back in the opposite direction as I normally would. But possibly this isn’t correct? I assume that the shaping wouldn’t happen in the same manner or maybe at all if I simply wrapped the stitch and continued to finish the row in the same direction.
I am going to try some larger yarn just to see what it looks like that way.
Thanks for the help I know you will give me 😊
Hi Margaret,
A twisted wrap + turn short row is exactly the same as a regular wrap + turn short row, except for how you move the working yarn when you do the wrap! Other than that, it works in exactly the same way: You knit partway through the row, then work the twisted wrap + turn, and then work back the way you came. The row is still “short,” so you do finish it in the opposite direction.
All the best,
Lili
Lili thank you for your patience and your help.
I finally put the hat down and knit something else for a day or two. When I came back to the hat I found that when I CAREFULLY read the instructions I was missing rows. I should have had 14 rows by the end of my reps of rows 3-4 and I didn’t.
Amazing how it is that things work out when you actually read and count.
🙄
lol!
I should celebrate by buying more yarn. 😊
Margaret
You’re so welcome! I’m glad to hear that you’re on your way with this pattern again!
All the best,
Lili