Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap
Giving a whole new meaning to doing things by halves, our Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap takes our favorite comfort knit and doubles the fun with stripes!
This design is the same clever construction as our original Half + Half Triangles Wrap, using short rows to make two triangles that connect in a big square… But now with an engaging array of stripes to give knitters that just-one-more-row-ness that makes this project so satisfying.
Our gorgeous Linen Quill is a wonderful choice for cozy and soft. The wool in this yarn lends its springiness and strength, the alpaca its softness. The linen’s tendency to sprout out of the fiber adds a slightly rustic texture, while the way it takes dye differently than animal fibers gives the yarn a beautiful depth and fascination.
Half the joy of this project is that you get to incorporate even more colors of Linen Quill into each wrap. And with five beautiful new shades added to this already-humungous palette, the options really are boundless!
For those who like some color guidance, we’ve made six Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap Bundles, each with six colors of Linen Quill. Terrazzo, above, spans the color wheel from pale pink to dark green and includes two of our new colors: Raw Sienna and Golden Green (on the bottom left and top middle in the picture above).
Ocean Current (below) is a calming collection of neutrals and blues and features the lovely new Bird’s Egg Blue and Reed Gray (pictured at the bottom right and top middle).
Whether you choose one of our bundles or make your own, you’re sure to enjoy this inspiring knit, because these two halves really do add up to one spectacular whole!
Originally designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton, and Gaby Bush designed this striped version.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoStripedHalfAndHalfTrianglesWrap, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS
Our Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap Bundle includes…
- 6 skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 439 yards/ 100 grams.
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 430 yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 400 yards required
- Color C: 1 skein; approximately 240 yards required
- Color D: 1 skein; approximately 315 yards required
- Color E: 1 skein; approximately 355 yards required
- Color F: 1 skein; approximately 330 yards required
You will also need…
- US 3 (3.25 mm) 32-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers, including 1 removable
Choose from these Bundles (we used Terrazzo and Ocean Current for our samples) …
TERRAZZO (above, left)
- Color A: Raw Sienna
- Color B: Peony Pink
- Color C: Juniper Green
- Color D: Fresh Pickle
- Color E: Golden Green
- Color F: Wheat Flour
OCEAN CURRENT (above, right)
- Color A: Pale Oats
- Color B: Cobalt Blue
- Color C: Bird’s Egg Blue
- Color D: Blue Pansy
- Color E: Reed Gray
- Color F: True Turquoise
CROCUS PATCH
- Color A: Stonewall Gray
- Color B: Mustard Seed
- Color C: Purple Smoke
- Color D: Crocus Bud
- Color E: Turmeric Yellow
- Color F: Lavender Opal
ROCKET SHIP
- Color A: Eggshell Blue
- Color B: Red Poppy
- Color C: Mountain Bluebird
- Color D: Sweet Potato
- Color E: Wheat Flour
- Color F: Vintage Celadon
STARFISH
- Color A: Fresh Nutmeg
- Color B: Peachy Pink
- Color C: Rose Granite
- Color D: Peach Stone
- Color E: Baked Earth
- Color F: Honey Pink
CHICKADEE
- Color A: Reed Gray
- Color B: Stillwater Blue
- Color C: Pale Oats
- Color D: Kettle Black
- Color E: Wheat Flour
- Color F: Salt + Pepper
GAUGE
26 stitches and 52 rows or 26 garter “ridges” (one garter ridge equals 2 rows) = 4 inches in garter stitch, blocked
NOTE: We used nearly every yard of Color A. To avoid running out, be careful to match the recommended gauge and keep your yarn tails no longer than 4-6 inches. Also, choose a different color for your gauge swatch!
SIZE
Finished Dimensions: 40¾ inches wide x 40¾ inches long; approximately 57½ inches along the fold
NOTES
SHORT ROW SHAPING
WRP-T (WRAP + TURN)
On both right and wrong sides: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Turn work so other side is facing you. See this technique in action in our Short Row Tutorial at 0:30 seconds), except do not bring the yarn to the back before you turn.
TWISTED WRP-T (TWISTED WRAP + TURN)
On the wrong side, bring yarn between needles to front of work, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle…
… then, bring yarn to back of work, and return slipped stitch to left needle.
Bring yarn between needles to front of work, and finally, turn work so right side is facing you, and working yarn is at the back of the work.
LOCK TAIL (FOR TWISTED WRAP + TURN)
Locking the tails keeps the twisted wraps tight at the color-changes on Triangle 1. To lock a tail, bring the tail of the non-working yarn over the working yarn at the wrong side of the work, and continue knitting, repeating one more time if desired.
SLIDE WORK
Keep the same side of the work facing you and push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the next row as you normally would.
KNITTING WRAPPED STITCH WITH WRAP
NOTE: Use this technique whether you’re knitting a wrap from a “wrap and turn” or a “twisted wrap and turn.” When knitting the wrap from a twisted wrap and turn, gently tug the tail on the wrong side of work to keep the stitch taut.
Use tip of right needle to pick up the wrap, inserting needle from front to back. Place the wrap onto left needle, so wrap is first stitch on needle and wrapped stitch is second, then knit the two together as you normally would.
PATTERN
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, cast on 265 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row and place a removable marker to indicate right side of work.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to last 3 stitches, place marker (pm), k1, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 3: Knit to end of row, slipping marker as you come to it.
Row 4: Knit to marker, remove marker, wrp-t.
Row 5: K1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 fifty-six more times, ending with Row 5. [59 total garter ridges (see Notes, Gauge section)]
Repeat Row 4 one more time, ending with a twisted wrp-t (see Notes) instead of a standard wrp-t.
Cut Color A.
Next Row (right side): With Color B, k1, pm, k1, lock Color A tail (see Notes) and continue knitting to end of row.
Continuing with Color B, repeat Rows 4 and 5 seventy-four more times, ending with Row 5. [134 total garter ridges; 74 garter ridges in Color B]
Repeat Row 4 one more time, ending with a twisted wrp-t.
Cut Color B.
Next Row (right side): With Color C, k1, pm, k1, lock Color B tail (see Notes) and continue knitting to end of row.
Continuing with Color C, repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have wrapped every stitch except the last two, ending with Row 5.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, remove marker, wrp-t.
Next Row (right side): K1. [264 total garter ridges]
Cut Color C.
TRIANGLE 2
Without turning work, slide work to other end of needles (see Notes) and join Color D.
Diagonal Row 1 (right side): With Color D, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps (see Notes). [265 stitches]
Diagonal Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
SECTION 1: TWO-COLOR
NOTE: In this section, carry non-working yarn up selvage. To do this, at the beginning of each right-side row, pick up the working yarn from behind the non-working yarn so it gets carried up the side of the work as you go.
Row 1 (right side): K1, pm, wrp-t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip marker (sm), k1.
Join Color E.
Row 3: With Color E, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp-t.
Row 4: Sm, knit to end of row.
Rows 5 and 6: With Color D, repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Repeat Rows 3–6 fifty-four more times, ending with Row 6. [111 total garter ridges]
Cut Color D.
SECTION 2: ONE-COLOR
Row 1 (right side): With Color E, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp- t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Sm, knit to end of row.
Continuing with Color E, repeat Rows 1 and 2 forty-two more times, ending with Row 2. [154 total garter ridges; 43 garter ridges in Section 2]
SECTION 3
NOTE: In this section, again, carry non-working yarn up selvage.
Join Color F.
Row 1 (right side): With Color F, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp- t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Sm, knit to end of row.
Rows 3 and 4: With Color E, repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Rows 1–4 twenty more times, ending with Row 4. [196 total garter ridges; 42 garter ridges in Section 3]
Cut Color E.
With Color F, repeat Rows 1 and 2 one more time. [197 total garter ridges; 43 garter ridges in Section 3]
SECTION 4
NOTE: In this section, carry non-working yarn up selvage.
Join Color D.
Row 1 (right side): With Color D, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp- t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Sm, knit to end of row.
Rows 3 and 4: With Color F, repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Rows 1–4 until you have completed a wrap and turn on the second to last stitch with Color F, ending with Row 4. Two stitches remain to the left of marker.
Cut Color F.
Next Row (right side): With Color D, knit to last marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, k1.
With wrong side facing you, bind off loosely knitwise, going up a needle size if needed to ensure a nice, elastic edge. [264 total garter ridges]
FINISHING
Weave in all ends, and wet block to finished dimensions.
How much of each color would I need to make a larger (50+ inch square) wrap?
Hi Emily!
Thank you for your question. For a 50+ inch square wrap, you would need at least 7 skeins total, so I would suggest getting an extra skein of each color so you have enough yarn to add to your wrap! To calculate how much extra yardage you need for any larger size of this wrap, you can multiply your desired width by 6, and divide it by 40.75 to determine the number of total skeins needed.
In addition, assuming you are knitting at gauge, you would need to cast on 325 stitches for a 50″ wide wrap. To determine your cast on amount for any size of this project, you can multiply your adjusted width by 36, and divide that number by 4 for your cast-on stitch count.
I hope this helps with your project planning, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
I’m only 5 feet tall and would like to make a smaller size. Can this be done with stripes? Thanks.
Hi Cindy!
Thank you for your post. If you would like to make a smaller size, you can use our original Half and Half Triangles Wrap as a reference, and repeat each striped section for fewer garter ridges and fewer repeats than listed in the Striped Half and Half Triangles pattern. The original pattern lists two sizes, with the smaller size measuring 31.75″ x 31.75″ after blocking, which may be a great fit for your wrap!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi. Thanks for the info on how to calculate the number of stitches to cast on for a larger wrap. How would knitting a larger wrap affect the number of garter ridges for each section? Thanks
Hi Jody!
Thanks for asking! Knitting a larger wrap would create more garter ridges per section, as more rows create more garter ridges. The specific number of garter ridges will be up to you and how many stitches you decide to cast on. In general, you should have one less garter ridge at the end of your first triangle than the total number of stitches you cast on. Dividing the number of stitches you cast on by 3 will help to determine approximately how many garter ridges to include in each section for the first triangle. For the second triangle, you can use the first triangle as a reference for where to begin and end the striped sections for your larger wrap, since the second triangle is built on the other side of the first triangle!
All the best,
Margaret
Can you recommend a different yarn for this project? Working with Linen Quill now and would like to try something different but with similar gauge. Many thanks!
Hi Jackie!
Thank you for your question. If you would prefer to use a different yarn, Quartz, Line Weight, Posy, and Santolina would all be good options, as they are all fingering weight yarns with many fun colors.
I hope this helps with your project planning, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Leaning toward Quartz, assuming it would be softer than Linen Quill? Your thoughts, please?
Many thanks as always,
Jackie
Hi Jackie,
Thank you for your question! Quartz is a lovely alternative for this wrap, and we’re glad to hear it caught your eye! While Linen Quill is certainly soft (especially after blocking), Quartz contains a more plush and squishy blend of merino wool and suri alpaca that would make for an even softer wrap!
I hope this helps with your project planning!
All the best,
Margaret