Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap
Giving a whole new meaning to doing things by halves, our Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap takes our favorite comfort knit and doubles the fun with stripes!
This design is the same clever construction as our original Half + Half Triangles Wrap, using short rows to make two triangles that connect in a big square… But now with an engaging array of stripes to give knitters that just-one-more-row-ness that makes this project so satisfying.
Our gorgeous Linen Quill is a wonderful choice for cozy and soft. The wool in this yarn lends its springiness and strength, the alpaca its softness. The linen’s tendency to sprout out of the fiber adds a slightly rustic texture, while the way it takes dye differently than animal fibers gives the yarn a beautiful depth and fascination.
Half the joy of this project is that you get to incorporate even more colors of Linen Quill into each wrap. And with five beautiful new shades added to this already-humungous palette, the options really are boundless!
For those who like some color guidance, we’ve made six Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap Bundles, each with six colors of Linen Quill. Terrazzo, above, spans the color wheel from pale pink to dark green and includes two of our new colors: Raw Sienna and Golden Green (on the bottom left and top middle in the picture above).
Ocean Current (below) is a calming collection of neutrals and blues and features the lovely new Bird’s Egg Blue and Reed Gray (pictured at the bottom right and top middle).
Whether you choose one of our bundles or make your own, you’re sure to enjoy this inspiring knit, because these two halves really do add up to one spectacular whole!
Originally designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton, and Gaby Bush designed this striped version.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoStripedHalfAndHalfTrianglesWrap, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS
Our Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap Bundle includes…
- 6 skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 439 yards/ 100 grams.
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 430 yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 400 yards required
- Color C: 1 skein; approximately 240 yards required
- Color D: 1 skein; approximately 315 yards required
- Color E: 1 skein; approximately 355 yards required
- Color F: 1 skein; approximately 330 yards required
You will also need…
- US 3 (3.25 mm) 32-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers, including 1 removable
Choose from these Bundles (we used Terrazzo and Ocean Current for our samples) …
TERRAZZO (above, left)
- Color A: Raw Sienna
- Color B: Peony Pink
- Color C: Juniper Green
- Color D: Fresh Pickle
- Color E: Golden Green
- Color F: Wheat Flour
OCEAN CURRENT (above, right)
- Color A: Pale Oats
- Color B: Cobalt Blue
- Color C: Bird’s Egg Blue
- Color D: Blue Pansy
- Color E: Reed Gray
- Color F: True Turquoise
CROCUS PATCH
- Color A: Stonewall Gray
- Color B: Mustard Seed
- Color C: Purple Smoke
- Color D: Crocus Bud
- Color E: Turmeric Yellow
- Color F: Lavender Opal
ROCKET SHIP
- Color A: Eggshell Blue
- Color B: Red Poppy
- Color C: Mountain Bluebird
- Color D: Sweet Potato
- Color E: Wheat Flour
- Color F: Vintage Celadon
STARFISH
- Color A: Fresh Nutmeg
- Color B: Peachy Pink
- Color C: Rose Granite
- Color D: Peach Stone
- Color E: Baked Earth
- Color F: Honey Pink
CHICKADEE
- Color A: Reed Gray
- Color B: Stillwater Blue
- Color C: Pale Oats
- Color D: Kettle Black
- Color E: Wheat Flour
- Color F: Salt + Pepper
GAUGE
26 stitches and 52 rows or 26 garter “ridges” (one garter ridge equals 2 rows) = 4 inches in garter stitch, blocked
NOTE: We used nearly every yard of Color A. To avoid running out, be careful to match the recommended gauge and keep your yarn tails no longer than 4-6 inches. Also, choose a different color for your gauge swatch!
SIZE
Finished Dimensions: 40¾ inches wide x 40¾ inches long; approximately 57½ inches along the fold
NOTES
SHORT ROW SHAPING
WRP-T (WRAP + TURN)
On both right and wrong sides: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Turn work so other side is facing you. See this technique in action in our Short Row Tutorial at 0:30 seconds), except do not bring the yarn to the back before you turn.
TWISTED WRP-T (TWISTED WRAP + TURN)
On the wrong side, bring yarn between needles to front of work, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle…
… then, bring yarn to back of work, and return slipped stitch to left needle.
Bring yarn between needles to front of work, and finally, turn work so right side is facing you, and working yarn is at the back of the work.
LOCK TAIL (FOR TWISTED WRAP + TURN)
Locking the tails keeps the twisted wraps tight at the color-changes on Triangle 1. To lock a tail, bring the tail of the non-working yarn over the working yarn at the wrong side of the work, and continue knitting, repeating one more time if desired.
SLIDE WORK
Keep the same side of the work facing you and push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the next row as you normally would.
KNITTING WRAPPED STITCH WITH WRAP
NOTE: Use this technique whether you’re knitting a wrap from a “wrap and turn” or a “twisted wrap and turn.” When knitting the wrap from a twisted wrap and turn, gently tug the tail on the wrong side of work to keep the stitch taut.
Use tip of right needle to pick up the wrap, inserting needle from front to back. Place the wrap onto left needle, so wrap is first stitch on needle and wrapped stitch is second, then knit the two together as you normally would.
PATTERN
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, cast on 265 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row and place a removable marker to indicate right side of work.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to last 3 stitches, place marker (pm), k1, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 3: Knit to end of row, slipping marker as you come to it.
Row 4: Knit to marker, remove marker, wrp-t.
Row 5: K1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 fifty-six more times, ending with Row 5. [59 total garter ridges (see Notes, Gauge section)]
Repeat Row 4 one more time, ending with a twisted wrp-t (see Notes) instead of a standard wrp-t.
Cut Color A.
Next Row (right side): With Color B, k1, pm, k1, lock Color A tail (see Notes) and continue knitting to end of row.
Continuing with Color B, repeat Rows 4 and 5 seventy-four more times, ending with Row 5. [134 total garter ridges; 74 garter ridges in Color B]
Repeat Row 4 one more time, ending with a twisted wrp-t.
Cut Color B.
Next Row (right side): With Color C, k1, pm, k1, lock Color B tail (see Notes) and continue knitting to end of row.
Continuing with Color C, repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have wrapped every stitch except the last two, ending with Row 5.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, remove marker, wrp-t.
Next Row (right side): K1. [264 total garter ridges]
Cut Color C.
TRIANGLE 2
Without turning work, slide work to other end of needles (see Notes) and join Color D.
Diagonal Row 1 (right side): With Color D, knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps (see Notes). [265 stitches]
Diagonal Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
SECTION 1: TWO-COLOR
NOTE: In this section, carry non-working yarn up selvage. To do this, at the beginning of each right-side row, pick up the working yarn from behind the non-working yarn so it gets carried up the side of the work as you go.
Row 1 (right side): K1, pm, wrp-t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip marker (sm), k1.
Join Color E.
Row 3: With Color E, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp-t.
Row 4: Sm, knit to end of row.
Rows 5 and 6: With Color D, repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Repeat Rows 3–6 fifty-four more times, ending with Row 6. [111 total garter ridges]
Cut Color D.
SECTION 2: ONE-COLOR
Row 1 (right side): With Color E, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp- t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Sm, knit to end of row.
Continuing with Color E, repeat Rows 1 and 2 forty-two more times, ending with Row 2. [154 total garter ridges; 43 garter ridges in Section 2]
SECTION 3
NOTE: In this section, again, carry non-working yarn up selvage.
Join Color F.
Row 1 (right side): With Color F, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp- t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Sm, knit to end of row.
Rows 3 and 4: With Color E, repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Rows 1–4 twenty more times, ending with Row 4. [196 total garter ridges; 42 garter ridges in Section 3]
Cut Color E.
With Color F, repeat Rows 1 and 2 one more time. [197 total garter ridges; 43 garter ridges in Section 3]
SECTION 4
NOTE: In this section, carry non-working yarn up selvage.
Join Color D.
Row 1 (right side): With Color D, knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, pm, wrp- t.
Row 2 (wrong side): Sm, knit to end of row.
Rows 3 and 4: With Color F, repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Rows 1–4 until you have completed a wrap and turn on the second to last stitch with Color F, ending with Row 4. Two stitches remain to the left of marker.
Cut Color F.
Next Row (right side): With Color D, knit to last marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, k1.
With wrong side facing you, bind off loosely knitwise, going up a needle size if needed to ensure a nice, elastic edge. [264 total garter ridges]
FINISHING
Weave in all ends, and wet block to finished dimensions.
How much of each color would I need to make a larger (50+ inch square) wrap?
Hi Emily!
Thank you for your question. For a 50+ inch square wrap, you would need at least 7 skeins total, so I would suggest getting an extra skein of each color so you have enough yarn to add to your wrap! To calculate how much extra yardage you need for any larger size of this wrap, you can multiply your desired width by 6, and divide it by 40.75 to determine the number of total skeins needed.
In addition, assuming you are knitting at gauge, you would need to cast on 325 stitches for a 50″ wide wrap. To determine your cast on amount for any size of this project, you can multiply your adjusted width by 36, and divide that number by 4 for your cast-on stitch count.
I hope this helps with your project planning, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
I’m only 5 feet tall and would like to make a smaller size. Can this be done with stripes? Thanks.
Hi Cindy!
Thank you for your post. If you would like to make a smaller size, you can use our original Half and Half Triangles Wrap as a reference, and repeat each striped section for fewer garter ridges and fewer repeats than listed in the Striped Half and Half Triangles pattern. The original pattern lists two sizes, with the smaller size measuring 31.75″ x 31.75″ after blocking, which may be a great fit for your wrap!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi. Thanks for the info on how to calculate the number of stitches to cast on for a larger wrap. How would knitting a larger wrap affect the number of garter ridges for each section? Thanks
Hi Jody!
Thanks for asking! Knitting a larger wrap would create more garter ridges per section, as more rows create more garter ridges. The specific number of garter ridges will be up to you and how many stitches you decide to cast on. In general, you should have one less garter ridge at the end of your first triangle than the total number of stitches you cast on. Dividing the number of stitches you cast on by 3 will help to determine approximately how many garter ridges to include in each section for the first triangle. For the second triangle, you can use the first triangle as a reference for where to begin and end the striped sections for your larger wrap, since the second triangle is built on the other side of the first triangle!
All the best,
Margaret
Can you recommend a different yarn for this project? Working with Linen Quill now and would like to try something different but with similar gauge. Many thanks!
Hi Jackie!
Thank you for your question. If you would prefer to use a different yarn, Quartz, Line Weight, Posy, and Santolina would all be good options, as they are all fingering weight yarns with many fun colors.
I hope this helps with your project planning, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Leaning toward Quartz, assuming it would be softer than Linen Quill? Your thoughts, please?
Many thanks as always,
Jackie
Hi Jackie,
Thank you for your question! Quartz is a lovely alternative for this wrap, and we’re glad to hear it caught your eye! While Linen Quill is certainly soft (especially after blocking), Quartz contains a more plush and squishy blend of merino wool and suri alpaca that would make for an even softer wrap!
I hope this helps with your project planning!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello,
I wanted to make a washable cotton baby blanket using this pattern and purchased some Sweetgrass. I was going for a subtle striping in natural colors. Please let me know your thoughts. I am wondering if that will be too subtle and if the yarn will work.
Thank you, love the pattern, Jo
Hi Jo!
Thank you for your question. We’re so glad to hear this pattern caught your eye, and I think it would make a lovely baby blanket! Sweetgrass would create a very soft version of this pattern, and it should be easy to achieve gauge since it is also a fingering weight yarn like Linen Quill. Sweetgrass is not machine washable, however, due to the alpaca component, so that is the only thing I would keep in mind when planning your project! As for the striping, I would suggest using the colors in order from lightest to darkest (or darkest to lightest) so as to have a gradual ombre flow. If you are curious to see how these colors transition from one to the next, you can take a look at our original Sand Drift Blanket, which uses the full palette of Sweetgrass in ombre stripes!
I hope this helps with your project planning, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
I was looking at the terrazzo color way but see it is out of stock. I think it is because raw sienna isn’t available. Is there another color that you would recommend to replace it? I couldn’t tell if turmeric yellow or fresh nutmeg would go with the color way or a deeper pink?
Thank you
Hi Nina,
Thanks for reaching out. Both Raw Sienna and Golden Green are currently out of stock, but I’d be happy to recommend substitute colors for both of them! I think Turmeric Yellow would fit perfectly within the palette, and then for an additional substitute, I love your idea for going with a deeper pink as well. I’d say that Baked Earth or Bright Flamingo would both be lovely choices, depending on how bright you want the pink to be!
All the best,
Lili
Do you have a simple command to print just the necessary parts of the pattern? The number of pages in the print preview are 18, and I think i need less than half that amount.
I am waiting for the chickadee color pack, can’t wait to knit!
Hi Jan,
Thanks for reaching out. Here’s how to print out a printer-friendly version of any of our pattern pages! If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
All the best,
Lili
I love this pattern and the color schemes. Do you have a crocheted version of this pattern?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we have not designed a crochet version of this pattern though! We’re sorry about that, but I’ll let our design team know that there’s interest in seeing one!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
This wrap seems a little daunting, so I’d like to make a swatch (like those next to the colored yarn bundles above) especially to practice the wrap & turns and carrying up the yarn, nice and neat, for the 2 color ridges. Can you tell me how many stitches I’d need to cast on? The little sample swatches that some made for the 2 color H&H wrap were very helpful. Good idea???
Thank you!
Hi Joyce,
That’s a great idea to practice beforehand! I counted the number of stitches in the photos of the swatches, and it looks like we cast on 38 or 40 stitches for those. Based on the gauge of this pattern, that would give you approximately a 6-inch square swatch, which is a great size for practice! If you’d like a different size swatch though, feel free to add or remove stitches as you see fit. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
One other question…the twisted wrap and turn happens only after
the 1st and 2nd color sections on the first triangle? So there are only 2, is this correct?
Hi Joyce,
Yes, you’re absolutely correct! You’ll only need to work a twisted wrap + turn twice in this pattern.
All the best,
Lili
Can you recommend a palette of colors in greens, blue-greens, and grays?
Hi Jen,
Thanks for your comment! I’d recommend Juniper Green, Fresh Pickle, Stonewall Gray, True Turquoise, High Tide, and Salt + Pepper as a starting point for your wrap color palette! I hope this helps! Please feel free to reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com if you’d like to discuss more color options. We’re always happy to help!
All the best,
Cat
How did you sew the 2 triangles together to get the diagonal stripe in the middle? Or did I miss that in the instructions? Thanks for your help.
Hi Frances,
Thanks for reaching out. There actually is no sewing involved in this pattern at all! The triangles are created entirely with wrap + turn short rows. You’ll begin my casting on all the stitches and working in shorter and shorter short rows until you’ve created Triangle 1. Then, you’ll begin Triangle 2 by working longer and longer short rows, until you’ve formed a square. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Just reinforcing the note that color A is almost completely used up! I think part of the problem is the long-tail cast on, since you’re trying to estimate for 265 stitches! And thank you for the repeated admonishments to make a swatch or I would have run out midway – I had to go to a size 2 needle to make the gauge work.