Ainur Berkimbayeva For Purl Soho: Amphora Pullover
With the graceful ease of an ancient vase, Ainur Berkimbayeva’s Amphora Pullover wears the precision of classical antiquity.
This sweater is knit from the top down, starting with a simple neckline that shifts seamlessly, as if sculpted by clay, into the yoke.
Ainur’s love of construction is evident in the neat increases that create a beautiful spiral around the chest and shoulders, melting into the smooth lines of the sleeves and body.
One hundred percent fine Falkland merino, Wigeon is wonderfully suited for this tidy twisted rib design. It’s made of three neatly spun plies, which create an even fabric with excellent stitch definition.
This soft and cozy yarn comes in fifteen solid colors, including the Eucalyptus Gray and Yellow Curry we used. Pick your favorite and knit a beautiful vessel of your own!
Designed for Purl Soho by Ainur Berkimbayeva. Ainur sees the unique constraints of knitting as opportunities rather than limitations. Using her remarkable ingenuity and love of geometry, she designs beautiful pieces for knitters who share her enthusiasm for shape, texture, and adventure!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoAmphoraPullover and #PurlSohoWigeon. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 6 (6, 7, 7) (8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10) skeins of Purl Soho’s Wigeon, 100% fine Falkland merino. Each skein is approximately 359 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1955 (2075, 2190, 2330) (2655, 2705, 2920) (3150, 3415, 3530) total yards required. We used the colors Eucalyptus Gray and Yellow Curry.
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 3, 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 3 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- An Amphora Pullover Pattern
GAUGE
34 stitches and 36 rounds = 4 inches in Twisted Rib Stitch
SIZES
43¼ (45¼, 47, 49) (53¼, 55½, 58) (61¼, 66¼, 70½)
To fit actual chest circumference of approximately 32–37 (34–39, 35–40, 37–42) (41–46, 44–49, 46–51) (49–54, 54–59, 58–63) inches, with 6–12 inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 43¼ (45¼, 47, 49) (53¼, 55½, 58) (61¼, 66¼, 70½) inches
- Finished Length from Neckband to Bottom Edge: 20½ (21, 21½, 22¼) (22¾, 22¾, 23½) (24½, 24½, 24½) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length from Underarm: 14½ (14½, 14½, 14½) (15, 15, 15) (16, 16, 16) inches
Samples: The Eucalyptus Gray pullover is size 43¼ and the Yellow Curry pullover is size 47, worn with 13 inches of positive ease.
Pattern
The Amphora Pullover Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Georgeous pattern. Could you share what stitch is used for the overall patern–have to decide if it’s workable before ordering. Is Great Wool an economical substitute, Also, the needle size–it seems quite different between pattern and yarn suggestions
Thanks, Love your patterns so much!
Hi Cindy!
Thank you for your post! This sweater is knit in twisted rib stitch, which involves alternating between purling one stitch and knitting one stitch through back loops. And Good Wool would be a great substitute! Good Wool and Wigeon are both sport weight yarns, which is why we suggest using them with a size US 3 needle, however that may change on an individual basis as needed to obtain gauge.
I hope this helps with your project planning, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
I just started this pattern. Most of the twisted ribs I’ve done previous involved purling through the back too. It seems that’s not the case here, correct? Thanks so much.
Hi Katie,
Yep, you’re absolutely correct! There are a few different ways to create twisted ribbing, and the version that’s used in this pattern does not twist the purls. That allows the knit fabric to have a little more give and stretch than a pattern in fully twisted ribbing, and we find that this aspect works great for garment designs in particular!
All the best,
Lili
Hi — do you think I could use this pattern, the neckline area specifically, to make a cowl/shoulder shrug? I’m thinking I could just do the increases to the length I want, then bind off?
I think this is the most gorgeous neckline increase I’ve ever seen.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thank you so much! We are so glad to hear this neckline has caught your eye. If you wanted to make a capelet or shoulder shrug using this design, you could certainly knit the yoke from the neckline, stopping right before you cast on for the underarms to create a cozy shrug!
I can’t wait to hear how this turns out, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
I’m trying to figure out how to make this as a cardigan! Any chance it’s possible?
Hi Carol!
Thank you for your post. Due to the slanted increases and yoke design, it would be quite difficult to turn this into a cardigan. Instead, I suggest taking a look at our collection of cardigan patterns, or, if you would like something with this design to drape over your shoulders on a chilly day, you could knit the pattern as is, but stop after the yoke for a unique capelet!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
I absolutely love this sweater and can’t wait until I have completed a few more projects to have the skill to make this.
Hi Katharine!
We’re so glad to hear this pattern caught your eye. We hope you decide to give it a try, and if you find yourself with any questions along the way, we are always here to help!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello,
Under the description for the sweater, the needle size needed is size 3. On the Wigeon page , the needle requirement is size 5-6. Could you please explain why would that work, thank you so much. Love the sweater,
Renata
Hi Renata!
Thank you for your question. We suggest using a size US 3 needle (or the size needed to obtain gauge) for this pattern since this sweater is knit in twisted rib. Ribbing tends to be more loose than stockinette stitch, so knitting at a smaller needle size helps correct this for a denser fabric!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Stunning! Want one.
I am a newbie an olde newbie who ran out of confidence.
Is this simple enough for someone without credentials just wants!
Hi Mary,
Thank you for your sweet post! This is a very straightforward sweater and would be a great pattern for someone interested in making their first sweater! We are always here to help if you have any questions come up along the way.
We hope you give this pattern a try!
All the best,
Margaret
I love this pattern and am looking forward to starting it, but I really like having a few short rows to make the neckline fit a little better in the back. Is there a way to add 2 or 3 short rows to the neckband by reversing the knit twisted rib stitch to make it a twisted purl stitch to keep the stitch pattern, or would it be easier/best just to make those 4 or 6 twisted rib knit stitches just plain purls? Thanks!
Hello!
Thank you for writing in. This pattern does not have any short rows in the yoke, and we found that it wears just fine without them! Adding these short rows in might impact the increase design in the yoke, however, so if you do try to add in some short rows, it may disrupt the overall effect.
When working twisted rib in the round, you do not need to purl through the back loops, however when you are knitting twisted rib “flat” (or back and forth) you will need to purl through the back loops in addition to knitting through the back loops.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Is there any way I can use DK weight yarn with this pattern and do you plan on issuing this pattern with a heavier yarn weight? I just love the look of your design.
Hi Suzan,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we do not have any plans to redo this pattern in a heavier weight yarn at the moment! But there is a way to do it–just choose a different size that works with the gauge you’re getting with the DK weight yarn!
Here’s how to figure out which size to make: First, make a gauge swatch in pattern with your intended yarn and needles. Once you know how many stitches you’re getting per inch, multiply that number by the chest circumference measurement for your original size. Then, compare the resulting number to the stitch counts around the body of each size (368 (384, 400, 416) (452, 472, 492) (520, 564, 600)). The size that comes closest is the one you should make!
Alternatively, you could try using smaller needles to achieve the gauge of the pattern with the DK yarn. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I would like to raise the neck to have a Turtle neck. Any suggestions?
Hi Kim!
Thank you for your question. Since this pattern is knit from the top down, it would be really easy to add a few extra rows at the beginning to create a turtleneck! Depending on how long of a turtleneck you are picturing, you can work as many or as few rows as desired in twisted ribbing before jumping into the increases for the yoke design.
I hope this helps with your project planning, and please don’t hesitate to let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
I was thinking of using something other than wool as I am sensitive and wool tends to itch. Is there some other yarn you can recommend? I was looking at the Cotton Pure. Also the Good Wool if that is less itchy. Thanks, Sloan
Hi Sloan,
Thanks for reaching out. Cotton Pure would absolutely work for this pattern, since it’s also a sportweight yarn! But as always, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge! If you would like to learn more about this, we have a handy tutorial called All About Gauge.
I also wanted to let you know though, that Wigeon is 100% merino wool, which is extremely soft and doesn’t itch at all like regular wool! Merino fibers are so fine that they bend to the touch, rather than sticking up and scratching. Most people who are sensitive to normal wool do not have the same reaction to merino wool.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Would it be possible to knit this up with a cashmere or alpaca (or blend ) yarn? The short fibers in wool, even merino, irritate my skin.
Hi Erin,
Thanks for writing in! You can absolutely knit this pattern in another yarn. Since it was designed for a sportweight yarn, most other sportweight yarns would work great. We have a sportweight alpaca yarn you might like, Season Alpaca. However, I wanted to let you know that merino wool and baby alpaca fiber tend to have similar micron counts, which indicates that the width of the hairs are about the same. But both micron counts are very low, meaning that the fibers are so fine that they bend to the touch, rather than sticking up and scratching!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there,
I’m making this sweater for my mom and really want to get sizing right. It says to measure chest circumference, so does that mean bust or ribcage? Is there a finished armpit to armpit measurement? The sizing diagram shows the finished circumference sizing at the bottom of the image, so I’m unsure where that’s measured from. Thanks for your help!
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out! The chest circumference measurement should be taken from the widest point around your chest. However, some people find that using the “high bust” measurement gives them a better fit. This measurement is taken slightly above where you would normally take the chest circumference measurement, but not quite up at the armpits.
After dividing the body and sleeves, you will not change the circumference of the body at all (i.e. there’s no waist shaping), so the chest circumference measurement is the same as the measurement around the bottom of the sweater!
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
My brain is going to explode I am having so much trouble establishing gauge. I am using Wigeon and a size 3 needle and am knitting a circular swatch in the twisted rib stitch. I do not understand how to measure my swatch. First question is blocked or unblocked? (I would prefer not to block) Second question is how to align the ribbing – so close together the purl stitches disappear? Or stretched out so they are visible? If I lay my swatch flat and let it relax into where it wants to be, I can see my purl sts and my stitch count is 28 sts in 4 inches. This seems like an awfully huge variation from the 34 sts specified in the pattern. I typically knit with an average amount of tension (neither particularly loose or tight). Please help! I am so eager to start this beautiful sweater. My end goal is about 54” chest circumference (13 inches positive ease). I like the feel of my work as it is worked on the 3 needles. I have read the All About Gauge tutorial, but it doesn’t help with this pattern.
Hi Dorian,
Thanks for writing in; I’d be happy to help you figure out the gauge for this pattern! We measured our gauge after the swatch had been blocked, since we also blocked the final sweater and took the finished measurements after that. But you should measure your gauge swatch in the state you plan on having your finished sweater! If you plan on blocking the sweater after you finish it, then you should measure the gauge after blocking your swatch. But if you do not plan on blocking the finished sweater, then you should measure your unblocked! This all ensures the most accurate gauge measurement for your own project.
It sounds like you’re laying out your swatch correctly though–leaving it to relax without stretching it. If you’re happy with the density and texture of your swatch on the size US 3 needles, then I would recommend knitting a different size of the pattern that will get you that 54-inch chest circumference with a 28 stitch gauge! I’d recommend picking either the smallest or second-smallest size. At your gauge, the smallest size will end up having a 52.6-inch chest circumference, and the second-smallest size will end up having a 54.9-inch chest circumference. Both of these are very close to the 54 inches you’re aiming for!
I hope this helps you get started knitting, but please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns.
All the best,
Lili
In making the gauge swatch for the twisted rib, can I knit it on straight needles or must it be done swatching in the round (which I find to be difficult).
Also is your NYC store now open?
Thank you,
Ilene
Hi Ilene,
Thanks for reaching out. I would recommend swatching in the round, since this pattern is knit in the round! Swatching on the same pair of needles you plan to use in the project is the best way to get the most accurate sense of what your gauge will be for the actual pullover. I know that this method of swatching can be frustrating, but in the long run, it gives the best results!
And thank you for asking about our NYC shop! Unfortunately, it remains closed. Please read all about it on this page and feel free to reach out to us with any questions you may have!
All the best,
Lili
About knitting a swatch for this pattern. You have recommended knitting the swatch on the same needles you will knit the sweater. For this pattern that is a 16″ or 32″ circular needles. In order to work with these needles one needs many more than the 34 stitches needed for a 4″ swatch piece. How do you suggest working a swatch?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! I’d recommend following our Swatching for Circular Gauge tutorial. This is a great method for making a gauge swatch in the round to ensure the most accurate measurements!
All the best,
Lili
Are DPNs necessary on this pattern?
Need help with blocking the swatch and finished sweater: When blocking the swatch do you stretch it? Will the ribbed pattern remain stretched after it dries out? I would like to achieve e the same look as your finished model, but my purl stitches don’t show up as much, the twisted knit stitches are much closer together.
Hi Doina,
Thanks for reaching out! DPNs (or longer circular needles for magic loop) are required for this pattern because of the circumference of the sleeves. The sleeves begin with circumferences well under 16 inches, so the stitches will not fit around 16-inch circular needles.
When we blocked our sample, we did stretch the knit fabric a little bit (but not too much)! When blocking your swatch and eventually your finished sweater, I’d recommend measuring the gauge as you lay it flat to dry. That way, you can be sure that it will dry in the correct proportions. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I would like to make one for me (size medium) and my daughter (who is 8). Any chance this is possible?
Hi Elissa,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we’ve only designed this pattern in adult sizes! However, you could absolutely try modifying the pattern to fit your daughter. If you end the yoke increases early, then you’ll be able to divide the body and sleeves into smaller circumferences that match her measurements.
All the best,
Lili
I love this pattern but I knit with a needle under my arm. Anyway it can be knitter with single pointed needles?
Thank you
Laura
Hi Laura,
This pattern is knit in the round, so if you like knitting on straight needles, I’d recommend knitting it on DPNs! There are extra-long DPNs made exactly for this purpose (if you don’t own that type of needle already)!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
Is there any way to reduce the waist circumference to make a more fitted garment? I love this sweater but want a bit more fit from the bust down.
Mindy
Hi Mindy,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, you can absolutely modify this pattern to have waist shaping! To do so, I’d recommend working some decrease stitches on either side of the body as you knit that section. That will give the torso of the sweater a tapered shape!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there this is Rachel again! I am working on the yoke, and I have completed 7/15 of rounds 1-6. My question is: will the full number of stitches really fit on these 32″ needles? They seem rather squished already. Should I be switching to longer circular needles?
Thanks!
Hi Rachel,
If the stitches are feeling squished, you can absolutely switch to longer needles at this point!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, this is Carole. Do you think this pattern could be knit using Linen Quill?
Thanks, Carole
Hi Carole,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern is designed for a sportweight yarn, so because Linen Quill is only fingering weight, it’s a bit too thin for the pattern. If you have some Linen Quill on hand already, you could definitely make a swatch to see if you can get gauge with it though. If you’re able to do that, and you like the texture and density of the resulting knit fabric, then you can totally make this sweater with that yarn! But in general, I’d recommend taking a look at our sportweight yarns, which will definitely work. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
My m1R stitches look so wonky. Would a KFB increase work instead ?
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing in! Kfb increases would technically work in this pattern, but they might not give you the look you’re going for. I’d recommend trying them out first to see if you like how they work in the pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Love the pattern – the shape and texture look amazing. Any tips on adjusting it for a male wearer?
Hi cb,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m happy to hear that this pattern has caught your eye! All of our patterns are designed to be worn by people of any gender, but some may fit different body types better than others. I’d recommend taking a look at the measurements listed under SIZES to get a sense of how it fits. If you’d like advice on making any specific modifications, just let me know what you want to change, and I can absolutely help out!
All the best,
Lili
I am making the Amphora sweater and am in love with the design. My question is that I am a very petite person and am concerned the 43″ of ease will be too much for my small frame. Would it work to do only a total of 11 or 12 increases of the yoke rather than the 13 total(I am doing the smallest size). I am 35″ in the bust with small shoulders. I can handle 39-40″ without looking too large.
Second what method do you recommend for blocking?
Hi Vivian,
Thanks for reaching out. You could definitely finish the Yoke increases after just 11 or 12 repeats! The only thing you’d need to keep an eye on is the number of stitches you then place on hold for the sleeves and the number of stitches you work for the body. Both will need to be fewer overall, so these are things you would need to calculate from the stitch count you end up with, rather than following the pattern for. I’d be happy to provide advice for these calculations, if you’d like!
As for blocking, we recommend wet blocking the sweater and laying it flat to dry. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili.
I have decided to stop after the 11 set of increases and would like your advice on how to proceed with sleeves, etc. By my calculations I would 76 stitches for the body, place 88 onto holders for the sleeve and would make 16 for underarm? Please advise.
Thanks, Vivian
Hi Vivian,
Yes, after 11 sets of increases total, I would divide the body and sleeves in the same manner! You would have 480 total stitches at this point, so you would work 76 stitches, place the following 88 on hold for a sleeve, cast on 16, work 152 stitches for the front, place the following 88 on hold, cast on 16, and then work the remainder of stitches in the round.
All the best,
Lili
i just started this pattern. I used a basic long tail cast on. Am i right that the first 5 rows are k1p1 no twist? Twisted rib starts at neckband rounds 2-8?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you will work Round 1 a total of 5 times before proceeding to Rounds 2-8, where the twisted ribbing begins.
All the best,
Lili
Hello
I am doing the increase rounds. My work does not look right, on rds 2,3 5,6aft the M1R SM the next stitch is a Ktbl. In knitting the next rd as you come to the marker is the stitch before and after the marker a Ktbl? That’s what I’ve been doing but the work does not look right.
thanks for your help
Nancy Benzing
Hi Nancy,
That’s a great question! The first stitch directly after slipping a stitch marker will always be a k1tbl. On Rounds 2 and 3 though, there will be 2 k2tbl’s in a row–one before the marker and one after the marker. That’s because you created a new stitch with the m1R in Round 1! On Round 4, you will do another m1R after the final k1tbl of the section, but before slipping the marker. This will bring your stitch pattern back to normal twisted ribbing for Rounds 5 and 6. Let me know if this matches up with what you’ve been doing in your own project!
All the best,
Lili
hi again
Do you mean rounds 2, 3 and 5,6 are the same? All of these rds have back to back ktbl before and after each marker?
thanks again
Nancy
Hi Nancy,
Rounds 2 and 3 are the same as each other, and Rounds 5 and 6 are the same as each other, but different from Rounds 2 and 3! Rounds 2 and 3 have a k1 tbl on both sides of each marker, but Rounds 5 and 6 only have a k1 tbl after each marker. Let me know if this makes sense!
All the best,
Lili
thank you Lili. I think my mistake is that I knitted the m1r on the next rd through the front!! Thats why it doesn’t look right!! Bummer for me!!! Thanks for your help. Loving this project!
Nancy
Hello,
I have a quick question regarding the sizes. If I’m a 45″ chest circumference and I like a little room (not tight fitting) what size and how many skeins would you recommend taking positive ease into account?
Thank you,
Ally
Hi Ally,
Based on your measurements, I’d recommend knitting size 53 1/4! That size will fit with 8.25 inches of positive ease, which is perfect for a roomy sweater, and it requires 8 skeins of Wigeon!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much Lili!
Thank you so much Lili!
I have a question regarding a yarn substitute for this Pattern. I have in my stash 100% mercerized cotton – 5.5 to 6.5 sts/in., on US 3-4 needles / 10-15 epi. Would this be a good substitute for this pattern? It’s a great color and I think it would be nice for this pattern. I’ve been looking for something to use this up on.
Thank you,
Ally
Hi Ally,
That yarn sounds like it would be perfect for this pattern! Since you already have it on hand though, the best way to figure this out for sure would be to make a gauge swatch. That way, you can tell exactly if you’ll be able to match the gauge of the pattern, as well as figure out what needles would be best to use for it.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much Lili! I’ll buy the pattern and give it whirl.
I appreciate your quick reply! 🙂
Ally
I love this pattern and am ready to start the sleeves. I do not like working with dpns so I want to learn the magic loop. I watched the Magic Loop tutorial and it is very clear. My question is about starting the sleeve. Do I begin by using the long circular needle to pick up all the sleeve sts, knitting the first row of the sleeve? Then do I divide those sts in half per the video and follow the magic loop technique to join the round and continue the sleeve?
Hi Dorian,
That’s a great question! Here’s how I like to pick up stitches for the sleeves when using magic loop: With your long circular needles, first pick up and knit half of the underarm stitches, as the pattern indicates. Then, slip the first half of the on-hold stitches onto the needles. At this point, you should pull the needle cord further through the stitches, so that you can form the “loop” of the magic loop! Keeping this loop in place, slide the remaining on-hold stitches onto the needle, and pick up the remaining underarm stitches. Pull the needle out further, and now you can begin knitting in magic loop!
All the best,
Lili
Lili, thank you. What you describe is how I was imagining it might work. I’m looking forward to trying it out. ~Dorian
I’m loving this knitting experience. The pattern is beautiful to me. I have a problem, though: although I made gauge swatch and proceeded accordingly, I’m near the end of the yoke and the measurement doesn’t match the pattern. (This is a common problem, yes?)
So I’m knitting the second size, and I’m on the 13th/final increase round, and the yoke is already 11 inches w/ only 34 sts between markers. Should I frog this and begin again, or can I tweak? If I should start over with the same yarn, would I use a needle one size larger? or smaller? I can’t wrap my brain around it. Thank you for any insight.
Hi Sally,
I’m sorry to hear that the measurements seem off at this point! It sounds like your gauge might not be quite accurate, so I’d recommend double checking that. When you knit up your gauge swatch, did you do it in the round or flat? Since this pattern is worked in the round, we recommend working your gauge swatch in the round as well to get the most accurate measurement.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, Lili, for your quick response. No, I didn’t make a gauge swatch in the round but will do so after I frog this, unless there’s some magic I could use to tweak it. Again, I thank you.
Hi
I’m making this in size small. I’m at 31 stitches between markers, at measuring 10 inches, my circular gage was right on. Should i keep going to 34 stitches between markers , 11 more rows before dividing for sleeves? That will make the sweater 11.5 inches before starting sleeves! Stumped!!!
Nancy
Hi Nancy,
Are you making size 43 1/4? If so, then it sounds like your round gauge might be a little bit on the large side, even if your stitch gauge is correct. I’d recommend double checking! Sometimes gauge can still shift once you begin the actual project.
In order to maintain the correct stitch count, you will need to complete all the increases. If you decide to continue on, I don’t think that the extra 1.5 inches will cause much of an issue with the fit though! In fact, it may even give you some more wiggle room in the underarms!
All the best,
Lili
HiLili
Just got your post. So thank you. Please disregard my last post. I was anxious to keep going! And thankyou!nyou are always so good about answering
Nancy
Greetings!
I have finished my Amphora Pullover (in Wigeon Gulf Green) and it is beautiful. Wigeon is a fantastic yarn and this is a great pattern. I am very happy with it. Now I am worried if I wet block it, then it will stretch larger which I do not want to happen. But I do think it will look better after blocking. Any advice?
Thanks,
Dorian
Hi Dorian,
As long as you make sure that the knit fabric doesn’t sag when you’re transferring it from the water to your blocking mat, then the sweater should not stretch at all! A good tip for a large project like this is to put it in a pillowcase before placing it in the water to soak. This will help you remove the project from the water without stretching, and the excess water can be gently pressed out before laying it flat to dry.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lily. I will try the pillow case trick – it never occurred to me. Good tip!
Dorian
I would like to make this sweater smaller.
Do you see any problem with casting on the smallest size and not doing the last two rounds of increases thus reducing the # of stitches by 32. I figure it would result in a 40.5″ chest measurements and a 13 inch armhole circumference with all the other dimensions the same as the smallest size. (of course this is predicated on having spot on gauge). Am I missing something or am I good to go?
Hi Janis,
Yes, that will totally work! I’d just recommend keeping in mind the number of stitches you allocate for the body and sleeves to make sure those parts of the sweater end up being at the measurements you want.
All the best,
Lili
I have finished knitting the yoke; but have questions about sleeve/body separation. After separating the first sleeve and then back loop cast on, (assume I have to cast on with new yarn) do I immediately continue with the body yarn and knit in the cast on stitches? If this is true, assume this would be the case for the other sleeve armhole.
Fell in love with this pattern at first glance.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! At this point in the sweater, you will not need to use new yarn at all. The instructions allow you to continue knitting with the same working yarn you’re already using as you cast on for the underarms and continue knitting the body. The stitches that you place on hold will remain on hold until you’re ready to knit the sleeves. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili