The stretchiness of knit ribbing does not have to suffer the inflexibility of a taut bind off. This Long Tail Tubular Bind Off maintains the elasticity of ribbed fabric with a neat and pretty finish. It’s perfect for toe-up socks, cuffs, neckbands and anywhere else you end with a ribbed edge. Also, this bind off is the companion to the Long Tail Tubular Cast On, so be sure to check out that tutorial for those occasions when you start with a ribbed edge too!
Materials
- You will need a spare circular or double pointed needle, equal or smaller than your working needle and long enough to accommodate half your stitches. In this tutorial, my spare needle is the wooden double pointed needle and my working needle is the metal circular needle.
- You will also need a tapestry needle.
Note
- This technique works both for knitting in the round or flat.
- The example shown below is for a 1 x 1 rib. This method can be easily modified for a 2 x 2 rib. Before the set-up rows simply rearrange the stitches on the needle so that their order is in a k1, p1 pattern.
Work to one row before the desired finished length.
Set-Up Row/Round 1: Work across the row/ round, knitting the knit stitches and slipping the purled stitches purlwise with the yarn in front.
IF YOU’RE WORKING FLAT…
Set-Up Row 2: Repeat Set-Up Row 1.
IF YOU’RE WORKING IN THE ROUND…
Set-Up Round 2: Work across the row/ round, purling the purl stitches and slipping the knit stitches purlwise with yarn in back.
Next Row/ Round: Slip each stitch purlwise, slipping the knit stitches onto the working needle and the purl stitches onto the spare needle.
At this point you have half (or approximately half, if you are working over an odd number) of the stitches on each of two parallel needles.
Cut the yarn, leaving a tail that is approximately 3 times the length of the edge.
NOTE: I used a contrasting yarn instead of the tail for demonstration purposes.
Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft together the stitches on the front (working) needle and back (spare) needle.
Now you have a tidy and flexible bind off for your ribbed edge!
PRINT
Thanks for your instructions so clear and helpful!
Could this be done with a möbius cast on! Seems like it is basically the same principle. One would just be starting from the center and working out. Then would you not have to do the tubular cast off. Am I thinking right?
Thanks!
Hi Meredith!
Interesting idea! You’ve got me stumped – you should try it out and let us know if it works!
Thanks for your question, though!
Thomas
Thank you for these lessons. Always interested in learning new aspects of knitting.
For 2×2 rib . . . didn’t understand your directions. I’m guessing you just stop doing the 2×2 and follow the directions for the 1×1 rib as given. Is that right?
Hi Sue-
Here’s how you do it: during the last row of regular rib knitting (before the set up rows), do this rearranging row: *K1, LC1 (left cross of 1 knit stitch in front of 1 purl stitch), P1*
For the directions on the Right Cross, see this link (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/09/27/cable/)”
-Thomas
Thanks so much!
I’m using this for the classic cowl pattern and at first my edging is perfect but as I continue it starts to lean left. I’m being careful not to tighten too much but it doesn’t seem to be helping. Is there something I’ve done wrong?
Hi Jasmine,
Thank you for your question. I can think of two possible reasons for the leaning in your bind off. This pattern has a large number of stitches and it is easy to lose track of all of them. Whenever I am doing a Kitchener stitch with over 100 stitches I always double check that I have the same number of stitches on both needles and every other stitch is on your spare needle. It is very easy to accidentally miss a stitch when dealing with this amount of stitches.
If your certain that your stitches are evenly divided and properly arranged than I can’t think of anything you could have been doing wrong. Sometimes with the Kitchener Stitch the ribbing can be pulled a little to one side. If it isn’t too dramatic you should be able to straighten everything out when you block it.
Hope this helps and if the problem persists feel free to email us photos of the problem at purlbee@purlsoho.com!
Jake
I’ve had the crowd done for over a month but am so intimidated by such a long bind-off using Kitchener stitch. Is there any other bind off that would work? I did do the long tail cast on.
Dear Jane,
Thank you so much for your question! You can do any kind of bind off for this project. You can view some tutorials for different kind of bind-offs on the Purl Bee; https://www.purlsoho.com/create/category/knit/tutorials-knit/bind-offs-tutorials-knit/.
The advantages of doing the Long Tail Tubular Bind Off is that it creates an edge that has a little more stretch so whichever bind off you do I recommend making it loose so it is able to stretch.
Feel free to email us with anymore questions you may have!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Your link doesn”t work.
Thanks
Here you go!
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/category/knit/knit-tutorials/knit-tutorials-bind-offs/
-Adam
Could this and the long tail tubular cast on also be used for a seed stitch edge?
Hi Chana,
Great question! The tubular cast on and bind off would be a great choice for doing seed stitch. After you do the cast on (including foundation rows) you will want to go straight into the seed stitch pattern knitting knit stitches over the purl bumps from the previous row and purl stitches over the knits. This will give you very clean edges with a little more stretch.
Thanks for writing and don’t hesitate to write back with more questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
How do you handle that last extra stitch on the working needle when you have a K1,P1 rib that starts and ends with a knit stitch? Sorry, I’m not very experienced with kitchener.
Hello Adrienne!
Ideally you wouldn’t have a rib that starts and ends with a knit stitch if you cast on an even number of stitches. What type of pattern are you working on?
If you’d like to email us a picture and a link to your pattern, that would be the best way we could help you out. Contact us at customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com. Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
This is great. I’m always wanting to learn new cast ons and bind offs. One never knows when a new cast on, paired with it’s bind off partner can be used. I’m excited to try ’em out. Thanks for posting them.
Hello!
We’re glad that you find this useful! Let us know how it turns out! -Alyson
Hi!
I’m doing this bind off for the reversible rivulet scarf. The ribbing is p1 tbl, k1 tbl – I don’t understand how to rearrange it so that their k1 p1!
Thanks in advance!
Adrienne
Wait, nevermind. I think I get it. The rearrange directions are for the 2×2 rib. For setup rows 1 and 2, I’m just supposed to knit the knit stitches and purl the purl – so for this scarf, it just regular p1 k1. Onward!
Hello, Adrienne!
Thank you so much for writing in! We are delighted that you figured it out! If you have further questions, please reach out again. Happy knitting!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Thanks so much for these clear instructions. I was so stuck on my neck edge on my raglan sweater and nothing else was helping. thanks thanks thanks!
Wonderful thank for the tips, Great help
Hi, I’m about to bind off the cap sleeve lattice top, and wanted to use a binding off technique with more stretch. However, the rib is k2p1. Is it possible to use this technique for that?
Thanks!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for writing in! I have not been able to find any reference to doing a tubular cast off for anything other than a 1×1 rib or a 2×2 rib. That is not to say that it is not possible, I am just nor sure how it would be done and my research through all of my reference material has not turned up any information.
However, when I want an extra stretchy bind off, especially in a situation such as this, I grab a knitting needle one size up from the size that I have been knitting with and use it to bind off.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Is it possible to use this bind off for the mini herringbone scarf?
Hi Pheng,
Thank you for the question! This bind off is usually used for 1×1 ribbing, so I don’t know how it would go on the Herringbone scarf. We also have two herringbone stitch scarves, so let me know which one you are referring to. For both those scarves, I do recommend binding off as the pattern states because the herringbone stitches are very dense. Let me know!
-Adam
Can this be used for a moss/seed stitch bind off? You do have a k1 p1 knitting. I am a novice but will not use the standard bind off for my projects. Many patterns start and end with moss knitting.
Do you know of any otheeer bind offs for moss stitching?
Thanks
Hi Rachel,
Thank you for writing us! This technique is normally used for 1×1 ribbing. I’ve never tried it on moss stitch, but there is no reason it wouldn’t work since moss stitch is a variation on 1×1 ribbing. Give it a go and let us know how it turns out!
-Adam
Would this work well as a bind off along a 2×2 rib button band edge (especially if I’m sewing in a zipper instead of using buttons) of a hooded sweater? I thought it might look tidier than a standard bind off but wonder if it would be too stretchy for the hood portion…can you do 2 different bind offs along the same edge?
Hi Erica,
Thanks for writing in! This bind off does not work for a 2×2 rib. The tubular method for the 2×2 rib is much different and we don’t have a tutorial for that. I suggest a normal pass over bind off, working in the 2×2 rib pattern as you go. Also, if you plan on sewing in a zipper, you’ll want a more stable bind off like the pass over bind off. The bind off will be facing the inside of the sweater when sewn so the look of the bind off won’t matter as much.
This sounds like an interesting project! Let us know how it goes and if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Adam
Oh the description above says it can be modified for 2×2 rib by rearranging the stitches. You’re probably right in that it would be too stretchy. Would EZ’s sewn bind off be stable enough do you think? It’s just a basic raglan hoodie for my 9 month old but I wanted to try a zipper instead of buttons since it’s easier to get on and off! The other option I was thinking was an Icord bind off but I don’t love the look of Icord for whatever reason.
Hi Erica,
Thanks for writing back. EZ’s sewn bind off is a good one but I still suggest the normal pass over bind off because it is more rigid. You’ll want this rigidity when sewing in the zipper. I do not suggest the i-cord bind off because it will be too bulky and will interfere with the way the zipper lays.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Hi – just used the tutorial to bind off the neck on my M Patmos crossover crew . It all seemed to work ok, looked tidy but was way to tight – can’t get it over my head! Is this an error on my behalf? Its in time out right now but once I unpick it, should I try again? Any suggestions welcome! Thanks, Clare
Hi Clare,
I would recommend using the same size needle that you worked the neck in instead of sizing down your needle. It might also help to knit at a looser tension on the last two rows before the kitchener stitch.
I hope this helps!
Carly
I already tried the tubular bind off 1×1 and 2×2, but I was wondering if 3×3 can also be done? I’m doing a baby hat that is 3×3 and would like to have that nice finish on the top of the hat!
That’s in advance for your answer!
Hi Patricia,
Thanks for writing in! I have not heard of a 3×3 tubular bind off. I’ve done a fair amount of searching and have not been able to find a tutorial or reference to it. That is not to say that it isn’t possible but it may be something that you can invent!
Best,
Cassy
I am so confused by this. I am making the Classic Cowl and almost finished and want to do the tubular cast off. These instructions look like you are moving half the stitches to another needle and sewing all the stitches together instead of binding them off? Maybe I should make a tiny replica of this but it appears you are sewing a seam down the two needles? Help…..
Hello Lynda,
Thank you for reaching out! You are using the kitchener stitch to bind your stitches off- This means that you are seaming your stitches together, but you are seaming your stitches to bind them off. This will maintains the elasticity of ribbed fabric with a neat and pretty finish. I think trying this technique out before using it on your project is a great idea. I always like to try out new stitches on swatches before using them for the real thing.
I hope this clears things up and let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
I have a k3 p1 ribbing on a toe up sock and wanted to do this bind off. I am thinking that I could just add one more set up row before the ones in your instructions and turn it into 2-2 ribbing, then follow your instructions for that.
when i went to do it, i saw that it’s much simpler! just need to do a k1 p1 round before starting this bind off. duh! nothing like needles on hand
Hello Jo,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes- you are correct! All that is required of this bind off is a 1×1 rib.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I LOVE this bind off. My ankles tend to swell, so I use this bind off on my toe up socks.