Top-Down Circular Yoke Pullover In New Yarns + Styles
Our pretty, pared-down Top-Down Circular Yoke Pullover pattern is a sweater for all knitters… And now it’s a sweater for all seasons, in a variety of new yarns and styles!
Whether you’re a knitter looking to make your first sweater or a seasoned pro, choose your yarn, your sleeve length, and whether you want ribbed or rolled edges for the neckline and hems… And just like that, you’re underway!
If you’re new to this style of sweater, let us briefly explain how it works. Working in the round, you’ll start at the neck and work simple increases until you are ready to section off some stitches that will eventually become the sleeves… And then you just keep on knitting until you reach the hem!
Then you’ll go back and grab those sleeve stitches, so you can work them in the round for as long as you want your sleeves to be, whether long, three-quarter, or short. Easy and no seaming required!
The fit for this type of sweater is super forgiving, and knitting from the top down also gives you the opportunity to try it on as you go. We even have a tutorial to help you choose your size before you begin!
Now let’s talk about those yarn options! Plein Air, shown below in Red Birch, knits up into an airy, soft sweater that you’ll be able to wear most of the year. A beautiful mix of 67% merino wool and 33% organically grown cotton, the wool gives body to the yarn so that it’s lofty, while the cotton adds a pleasant weight so that your sweater hangs beautifully!
Choose Cashmere Merino Bloom, shown below in Vintage Jade, if you’d like a very soft and supple sweater that will keep you toasty warm. This yarn benefits from 25% cashmere for over-the-top softness and beautiful bloom and 75% merino wool for resilience, durability, and even more softness!
Or cast on with machine-washable Morning, shown below in Heirloom White, for a cool cotton sweater with a touch of super soft yak! This yarn has a satisfying weight and an incredibly lovely hand… An absolute pleasure to knit and wear!
After knitting this classic sweater, new sweater knitters will be empowered to take on more complex endeavors… Or you might just want to knit another version of this easy-knitting beauty in a second yarn!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Originally designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoTopDownCircularYokePullover, #PurlSohoCashmereMerinoBloom, #PurlSohoMorning, and #PurlSohoPleinAir. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Purl Soho’s Plein Air, 67% wool and 33% organically grown cotton. Each skein is approximately 218 yards/ 100 grams. We used the color Red Birch.
- Short Sleeve Version: 4 (4, 4, 5) (5, 6, 6, 6) (7, 7, 8, 8) skeins; approximately 680 (740,
820, 910) (995, 1100, 1180, 1265) (1375, 1450, 1535, 1615) yards required - Three-Quarter Sleeve Version: 4 (5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 7, 7) (8, 8, 8, 9) skeins; approximately 820 (885, 975, 1085) (1180, 1285, 1365, 1455) (1555, 1630, 1705, 1780) yards required. We used the color Red Birch.
- Long Sleeve Version: 5 (5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) (8, 8, 9, 9) skeins; approximately 895 (970, 1050, 1165) (1245, 1370, 1450, 1540) (1660, 1730, 1810, 1885) yards required
OR
Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% extra fine merino wool and 25% cashmere. Each skein is 218 yards/ 100 grams. We used the color Vintage Jade.
- Short Sleeve Version: 4 (4, 4, 5) (5, 6, 6, 7) (7, 7, 8, 8) skeins; approximately 710 (775, 855, 950) (1040, 1150, 1235, 1325) (1440, 1515, 1605, 1685) yards required
- Three-Quarter Sleeve Version: 4 (5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 7, 7) (8, 8, 9, 9) skeins; approximately 860 (925, 1020, 1130) (1230, 1340, 1425, 1520) (1625, 1705, 1780, 1860) yards required
- Long Sleeve Version: 5 (5, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7, 8) (8, 9, 9, 10) skeins; approximately 935 (1015, 1100, 1220) (1300, 1430, 1515, 1610) (1735, 1805, 1890, 1970) yards required. We used the color Vintage Jade.
OR
Purl Soho’s Morning, 75% organically grown cotton and 25% yak. Each skein of this light worsted/DK weight yarn is 191 yards/ 100 grams. We used the color Heirloom White.
- Short Sleeve Version: 4 (5, 5, 6) (6, 7, 7, 7) (8, 9, 9, 9) skeins; approximately 715 (785, 865, 960) (1055, 1165, 1250, 1340) (1455, 1535, 1625, 1705) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- Three-Quarter Sleeve Version: 5 (5, 6, 6) (7, 8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10, 10) skeins; approximately 870 (940, 1030, 1145) (1245, 1355, 1445, 1535) (1645, 1725, 1800, 1885) yards required
- Long Sleeve Version: 5 (6, 6, 7) (7, 8, 9, 9) (10, 10, 10, 11) skeins; approximately 950 (1025, 1110, 1235) (1315, 1445, 1535, 1630)
You’ll also need…
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 5, 32- or 40-inch circular needles, depending on size you are making
- US 6 (4 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 6, 32- or 40-inch circular needles, depending on size you are making
- A set of US 5 double pointed needles
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- A stitch marker
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Top-Down Circular Yoke Pullover Pattern
GAUGE
21 stitches and 29 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, on larger needles
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
34 (37, 40, 43) (46, 49¼, 52¼, 54¾) (58, 61, 64, 67)
To fit actual chest circumference of 28–30 (31–33, 34–36, 37–39) (40–42, 43¼–45¼, 46¼–48¼, 48¾–50¾) (52–54, 55–57, 58–60, 61–63) inches, with 4–6 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34 (37, 40, 43) (46, 49¼, 52¼, 54¾) (58, 61, 64, 67) inches
- Finished Length from Back Neck to Bottom Edge: 21¼ (21½, 22, 23) (23½, 24½, 24¾, 25) (25¾, 26, 26¼, 26½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 (14, 14, 14½) (14½, 15, 15, 15) (15½, 15½, 15½, 15½) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm (Short Sleeve Version): 7¼ (7¼, 7¼, 7¼) (7¾, 7¾, 7¾, 7¾) (8¼, 8¼, 8¼, 8¼) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm (Three-Quarter Sleeve Version): 13½ (13½, 13¾, 14½) (14¾, 14¾, 14¾, 14¾) (14¾, 15, 15, 15) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm (Long Sleeve Version): 18 (18, 18, 18½) (18½, 19, 19, 19) (19½, 19½, 19½, 19½) inches
Samples: The Morning version shown here is size 37, worn with 4 inches of ease; the Plein Air version is size 37, worn with 5 inches of ease; and the Cashmere Merino Bloom version is size 43, worn with 6¾ inches of ease.
PATTERN
The Top-Down Circular Yoke Pullover Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download.
Zoom + Knit
We had such a fun and rewarding discussion about preparing to knit a sweater during our Top-Down Circular Yoke Pullover Zoom + Knit! If you’re planning to cast on for this easy sweater pattern, you’ll find our Top-Down Circular Yoke Pullover Zoom + Knit a great resource. We walked through the initial steps of deciding on your yarn, choosing a size, and knitting a gauge swatch, as well as answering tons of questions that will help you cast on with confidence!
LEARN ABOUT MORNING, PLEIN AIR, CASHMERE MERINO BLOOM + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Pick from three of our favorite light worsted/DK-weight yarns for your Top-Down Circular Yoke Pullover: Morning, with its cool-touch 75% organically grown cotton and 25% yak; Plein Air, which combines the best of both the animal and plant worlds with a beautiful mix of 67% merino wool and 33% organically grown cotton; or Cashmere Merino Bloom, a very soft, supple, and toasty warm yarn made from 25% percent of the most exquisite cashmere available and 75% extra fine merino wool.
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collections of (mostly free!) Morning knitting patterns, Plein Air knitting patterns, and Cashmere Merino Bloom knitting patterns!
More Light Worsted/ DK Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop cotton yarn
- Shop yak yarn
- Shop machine-washable yarn
- Shop merino wool yarn
- Shop cashmere yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Does this pattern require short rows?
Hi Karen,
Yes, this pattern includes some short row shaping! This ensures that the sweater fits well around the neckline and across the shoulders. If this technique is daunting, I’d recommend checking out our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn video tutorial. And we’re always happy to answer any questions that come up along the way!
All the best,
Lili
Are there any short rows in the pattern?
Hi Helen,
Yes, this pattern includes some short row shaping! This ensures that the sweater fits well around the neckline and across the shoulders. If this technique is daunting, I’d recommend checking out our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn video tutorial. And we’re always happy to answer any questions that come up along the way!
All the best,
Lili
I wonder if there is a way to adapt this pattern to give it a wider, lower neck – possibly by beginning the roll neck opening with more stitches, as if it began closer to the first concentric circle marking? I have not yet purchased the pattern, so I’m guessing here at the construction. Might this be addressed at the KAL, which I have signed up for? Many thanks! Debby
Hi Debby,
You could definitely give this sweater a wider neckline! I don’t think we plan on going over this type of modification during the Zoom + Knit meeting, but I’d be happy to give you some ideas on how to do it now.
I would recommend casting on more stitches to begin, specifically one of the stitch counts for your size that happens further along in the yoke shaping. (You can see these stitch counts after each Increase Row.) Just choose where you want to start, and you can essentially just follow the pattern from there! I would recommend still putting in the short rows though, so that the neckline fits well. You may want to extend the short rows further around the neckline, since the neckline will be wider!
All the best,
Lili
Great, thank you!
This is a beautiful sweater. I will be purchasing the pattern. I already have some DK yarn I would like to use. Will DK work for this pattern?
Thank you,
Sandra
Hi Sandra,
This pattern was designed for a DK weight yarn specifically, so what you have will definitely work! I’d still recommend knitting up a gauge swatch in order to determine the best needles. You may need to size up or down to achieve the gauge of the pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – Will Blackbird Linen work for this pattern? It appears that this yarn is the same in gauge and weight to Morning? I am allergic to wool and cashmere and find Morning a little hard to work with (because the yarn is so loosely plied) so am looking for something else with which to make this sweater. Thanks!
Hi Ann,
That is a great question! Blackbird linen is just a tad bit too thin for this pattern but could work for a more sheer and airy look if you’d still prefer to work with it. I’d recommend Serif or Sunshower Cotton as better replacements for this pattern and they are both wonderfully soft plant based fibers! I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
For the top down circular yoke pullover do you only knit one set of short rows?
Hi Shellie,
Thank you for your question! That is correct, you will only be working one set of short rows in the SHAPE BACK SHOULDERS section of the pattern. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello, does this come in children sizes too?
Hi CS,
That’s a great question! At the moment, this pattern is only written in adult sizes but the Bobble Yoke Sweater could be a wonderful alternative for children sizes. You could choose to knit it in a single color and omit the bobbles if you’d like. I hope this helps but please let us know if there is anything else we can answer.
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi,
I purchased the top-down circular yoke pull-over and am wondering how to do the ribbed neckline. I couldn’t find any directions or suggestions for the neckline or how to plan and carry out the optional sleeve lengths.
I love the pattern and the yarn I purchased to make it.
Also, I couldn’t get any contact places to work and accidentally found this one. Thank you!
Connie Sandberg
Hi Connie,
Thank you for writing in! Neckband options including rolled or ribbed can be found on page 4 of the pattern and all 3 sleeve options on page 6! You can also email us anytime at [email protected] and we would be happy to answer any other questions you may have. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I have reached the part of this pattern that says “Divide Sleeves From Yoke” then says “Division Round: 93 (99, 107, etc)” Am I simply moving 93 stitches or am I to knit 93 stitches? Then it goes on the say “place previous 53 stitches onto stitch holder”. Are these the last 53 stitches of the 93 that were moved (or knitted)? Thanks for your help.
Hi Lani,
There was actually a small typo in the version of the pattern you’re probably working from. There should be a “k” before those numbers, since you’ll need to knit those stitches! I’d recommend re-downloading the pattern from your Purl Soho account to access the most up-to-date version in which we fixed this typo.
In answer to your other question, the “previous 53 stitches” are the 53 stitches that you just knit! They’ll be the first 53 stitches on your right needle. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I am on Round 7 increase and based on my size (52 1/2) I think I have to knit 13 then kfb 24 and then knit to the end of the row am I reading this correctly? Then, do I have to knit for approximately 1 inch or does that 1 inch apply only to Sizes 58, 61, 64, 67 Only?
Hi Louise,
Thank you for writing in! That is exactly correct, for size 52 1/2 you will work your increase (k13, KFB) 24 times and knit to end of round before moving on to the CONTINUE: ALL SIZES section of the pattern. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello
Where does it tell you how to do the different neck lines I cant see it on the pattern …sorry to be a pest
Hi Liz,
No problem at all! You can find the two neckline options on page 4 right under the Neckband header. I hope this helps but please let us know if you are still having trouble accessing these instructions. You can email us at [email protected] and we can have a deeper look.
All the best,
Gavriella
On the second step of the shoulder shaping do you pearl to the marketer, slip the marker, and then purl anther 59 stickers (my size)to the next wrap and turn so the stitches are symmetrical on both sides of the marker? Thank you!
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for writing in! Hmmm, I’m not seeing any sizes that instruct you to purl 59 stitches at this point. But you’re correct in that you purl to the end-of-round marker, slip the marker, and then purl the number of stitches indicated for your size before working the wrap + turn! Here’s how many stitches you purl after you slip the marker for each size: 46 (48, 49, 51) (50, 53, 53, 56) (55, 58, 58, 61).
All the best,
Lili
Hi, love and bought this pattern. I saved it on Ravelry. When I went to print it, I discovered the trash can allowing me to delete some pages wasn’t there. Is there still a way I can only print the pages I need? Thanks so much
Hi Mary,
Since this is a PDF pattern, I’m afraid that it doesn’t work in the same way as our free patterns that are offered on the website! You should be able to indicate which pages you want to print when you go to print the pattern though. Most computers give you the option to select a page range when you print!
All the best,
Lili
Is there a fix for the armholes? How can the pattern be adjusted to make the armholes bigger /looser so there isn’t bunching up at the armholes? Beautiful pattern otherwise! I don’t have the expertise to figure out how to make the change. Thanks!
Hi Cecilia,
Thanks for writing in! If you’re noticing bunched-up fabric on either the front of the sweater or the back of the sweater around the armholes, then one modification you can try is to shift where the armholes are located. If the bunching occurs on the front of the sweater, then you’ll want to shift the armholes forward, and vice versa if the bunching is on the back! You can make this change on the Division Round by changing the number of stitches you knit before putting the sleeve stitches on hold. Hope this helps get you started!
All the best,
Lili
After increase rounds, the instructions say to “work evenly”. Is that different from knitting each round?
Thanks!
Hi Michele,
That’s a great question! Work even is the same as knitting every round. I hope this helps clarify!
All the best,
Gavriella
Yes, thanks so much!
You are very welcome! Please let us know if you have any other questions along the way!
Hi!
I am getting ready to knit my gauge and the pattern says to do so on “larger needles.” Curious as to why I would use the “larger needles” (US 6) if the size I am knitting calls for US 5.
Thank you!
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern uses two differently sized needles for all sizes: size US 5 for the neckline, sleeve cuffs, and bottom hem, and size US 6 needles for the main sweater. Since you’ll be using the larger size needles for the majority of the pattern, you’ll need to swatch with them to make sure you can achieve the gauge!
All the best,
Lili
Is Wigeon or 100% Knitting Wool suitable for this sweater?
Hi Kay,
That’s a great question. Wigeon would be a tab too thin for the pattern but Knitting Yarn could work! I’d suggest knitting a gauge swatch just in case you need to adjust your needle size to get the same tension as the pattern. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I want to use linen quill for this pattern. How can I do that?
Hi Trina,
To use Linen Quill with this pattern, you will want to hold your strands doubled to be able to achieve the same gauge as the pattern. I’d recommend making a quick gauge swatch just to make sure your tension is the same as the one in the pattern.
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you! Sorry I missed your response to my other comment before sending this.
I needed to go down 2 needle sizes to get the correct gauge. Would I still go down 2 sizes on the smaller needles? I am using Plein Air and that seems like such a small needle for the yarn.
Thanks!
Hi Charlene,
I’d recommend just going down a single needle size for the smaller needle sections. Please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Could I use the Simply Camel to make the Top-down Short sleeve pullover?
Hi Christina,
I’m afraid Simply Camel would be a bit too thin for this pattern. You could definitely hold it double though! I’d just recommend knitting a gauge swatch first to make sure you can match the tension of the pattern.
Happy making,
Gavriella
I’m working on this now, and I have knit about an inch below the armhole division. When I put the stitches on scrap yarn to try it on, the bottom (which now falls a bit below the bust line) is curved, not straight, and is longer in front than in back despite having done the short rows. Is this something that evens out as the body gets longer (or with blocking) or have I done something wrong? Want to check before I knit any more! Many thanks, Debby
Hi Debby,
Thank you for writing in although we are sorry to hear you are running into issues here. Your fabric should definitely even out once blocked. You can even block just the yoke you have completed. If you are still having issues, could you please send a photo of your project to [email protected] so we can have a deeper look? We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Gavriella
Thanks so much for the response, Gavriella. I actually knit a few more inches and it does seem to have evened out. I now think that with a bit of blocking it should be fine. But I will definitely reach out if problems persist. Thank you again!
Debby
Greetings-
I didn’t see anyone ask my question yet. I just started this pattern and chose the rolled neck style. I have finished the 1.5″ on the 16″ size 5 needle. Now the pattern says to switch to the larger size, but still 16″ — the increase row is making it very difficult to do this on the 16″ needle. I realize the 40″ would be too long to do this, but how about 24″? I have lots of different size needles including the interchangeable Addi needles so plenty of choices in length size.
Thanks for your help (in advance 😉
Susan
Hi Susan,
You could definitely use the 24″ needles for a better fit with your current stitch count. From there you can switch again once the number of stitches grows once more. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Yes, indeed, you have helped.
I see that I misread the pattern. 😫I did the first knit stitch, and then did the increases in all the remaining stitches so no wonder I had so many stitches. Finally figured it out a bit too late, but glad this is only my practice effort.
Question: I want to use the Purl Soho ‘Knitting Yarn’ that calls for size 6-8 needles. What my brilliant mind is telling me to do is use size 6 for the rolled collar and size 7 for the body and go one size smaller for the instructions as the gauge will change. Does any of this make sense?
Hi Susan,
Thank you for following up! I am glad to hear you are back on track! You could definitely go down a size with a new gauge but I recommend knitting a generous size swatch to see if you can work with the same gauge as the pattern. I think Knitting Yarn could work wonderfully with the pattern as is!
Thanks, Gariella – that is good news!
Hi Gavriella-
I see I misspelled your name in my previous reply, after paying close attention… apologies.
I did a 4″ stockinette swatch using size 7 needles to compare the gauge in the pattern (21 stitches/29 rounds). My 4″ swatch has 19 stitches and 26 rounds. So would you still recommend staying at my chosen size? I like a looser fit, so am probably answering my own question.
Thanks – Susan
Hi Susan,
I would recommend sizing down your needles and trying to get the correct gauge! Even a 2-stitch difference over 4 inches will result in a significantly larger sweater. This sweater was designed with 4 – 6 inches of positive ease, so it will have a pretty loose fit when the size is correct anyway!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for the information, Lili, about the sizing.
I have reached the point of attempting to do the short rows for the “Shape Back Shoulders.” I must be doing something wrong in reading the pattern. If the back of the sweater is marked by the beginning of a Round from Row 1 where the Join is located, and the short rows are done on only one side of the marker, doesn’t that make the side now the actual back with this shoulder shaping?
Also confused on the last short row, Row 5, states “Knit to end of round.” Round of Short Rows?
Then the next Next Round also refers to knitting to end of round: “Continuing with right side facing you, knit to end of round, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps.”
So with Row 5, knit around until you come to the wrapped stitches and then do as instructed to continue to knit with wraps until you are back at the marker?
Hi Susan,
It sounds like you may not have worked all the stitches necessary in Short Row 2! After purling back to the marker, you need to purl the same number of stitches on the other side of the marker before working the wrp-t. That way, your marker will be in the very center of the short rows!
Once you get back on the right track, I think many of your other questions will be cleared up. But please let me know if you still have questions once you reach Short Row 5!
All the best,
Lili
Please bear with my lack of experience on this situation, and I want to understand.
On my size, after the roll collar and the first increase row, I have 132 stitches. Starting Short Row 1 at the marker (back of sweater), I knit 53 stitches, do a wrp-t, and then purl back the 53 stitches for Short Row 2 with instructions stating do another wrp-t, which does require me to slip the marker to get to the wrp-t stitch. This makes no sense –Are you saying that I should continue on purling for another 53 stitches after the marker, and then do the wrp-t and then head back knitting all the stitches, passing the marker, knitting until 5 stitches and do another wrp-t . Then I purl back past the marker, and purl on until 5 stitches before doing the next wrp-t.
So on and so on until I get to Short Row 5, which like you said, hopefully will make more sense.
No worries at all–I’m here to help! Let’s take a look at Short Row 2:
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to end of round, p46 (48, 49, 51) (50, 53, 53, 56) (55, 58, 58, 61), wrp-t (see Special Instruction).
This row has you begin by purling to the end of the round. This is the end-of-round marker! Then, after that, you purl another 53 stitches, on the other side of the marker. Once you’ve worked those stitches, you make the wrp-t and can begin Short Row 3! This positions your marker in the exact center of the short rows.
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I am working on this project now and have run into a stitch count discrepancy. I am making the size 46 and just finished my row 6 increase. The pattern states that I should have 368 stitches, but my count is 336. I think my count is correct looking back and doing the math! Am I correct?
Thanks, Lorraine
Hi Lorraine,
After Increase Round 6, a stitch count of 336 is correct, so you’re right on track! Here are the stitch counts for all the sizes, for reference, and I’ve bolded size 46: [– (–, –, –) (336, 352, 352, 368) (368, 384, 384, 400) stitches]
All the best,
Lili
I am page 5 of the top down circular yoke pullover. I just completed increase row 6 and have 308 stitches for my size 40 sweater. I am very confused about my next increase. I read the instruction as K 57, then kfb and do this 6 times. This does not add up to the required 358 stitches. Where am I going wrong?
Hi Margie,
Thanks for writing in! If you’re knitting size 40, then Increase Round 6 should be the following:
Increase Round 6: [K50 (23, 9, 10) (–, –, –, –) (–, –, –, –), kfb] 5 (11, 28, 26) (–, –, –, –) (–, –, –, –) times, knit to end of round. [264 (284, 308, 320) (–, –, –, –) (–, –, –, –) stitches]
You only work one kfb after you knit 9 stitches. You begin by knitting 9 stitches, then you work 1 kfb, then you knit another 9 stitches, then you work 1 kfb, and so on until you reach the end of the round. Overall, you’ll be repeating [9, kfb] a total of 28 times!
All the best,
Lili
I’m knitting the same size (40) and am at this same point. After the Increase Round 5, I have 280 stitches, and after Round 6, I should have 308 stitches, so adding on 28 more. If I repeat [9, kfb] a total of 28 times, wouldn’t that only use 252 of the initial stitches and get me to 280?
Also, related to Margie’s question, do the increases for Rounds 7 and 8 only apply to the other sizes? For size 40, does the increase stop at Round 6?
Thanks!
Hi Linda,
The [k9, kfb] segment creates a total of 11 stitches, since the kfb takes one stitch and turns it into two. Multiplying 11 stitches by 28, you end up with 308 stitches!
In answer to your other question, yes! For size 40, you would only follow the instructions under the All Sizes heading, or any heading that specifies size 40.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
After I finish the two repeats of Short Rows 3 and 4, do I pick up the wraps when I knit one round in Row 5? It’s not clear to me why the instructions say pick them up on the Next Round, rather in than Row 5.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! On Short Row 5, you are just knitting from the final wrap + turn you just did on Short Row 4 back to the end-of-round marker, so you will not encounter any wrapped stitches on that segment. You will start to encounter the wrapped stitches on the Next Round, so that’s when you’ll be able to resolve them!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I am working on the project and have a question about the wrap and turn short rows in the yoke: shape shoulders section. With short rows 3 and 4, it says to knit/purl to 5 stitches before previously wrapped stitch. However this means I have to knit over wrapped stitches, do I knit the wrapped stitches with their wraps in this case? I’m not sure if I’m doing something wrong as I’m not sure if I’m only supposed to knit the wrapped stitches with their wraps at the very end or not?
Hi Niamh,
Thanks for writing in! Actually, you will not encounter any previously wrapped stitches on Short Rows 3 and 4, so you don’t have to worry about knitting them with their wraps yet. This is because each short row is shorter than the last!
If you are encountering wrapped stitches on your repeats of Short Rows 3 and 4 though, please reach out to us directly by sending an email to [email protected]. If you send over a photo of your work so far, we’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
I’m working on the rolled edge version of this sweater. Where it says to knit until the piece measures 1 1/2 inches from the cast-on edge, do I measure from the unrolled edge or from where the roll is? I know I’m supposed to measure opposite the end-of-round marker. Thank you for all the help!
Hi Linda,
I would recommend measuring it from the unrolled edge! Or if you prefer a slightly higher sitting neckline, you could knit until it measures the same distance while still rolled. But in our samples, I believe we measured it unrolled.
All the best,
Lili
Hi
I am working the body after casting on the armholes. Is the beginning of the round in the center of the back?
Hi Caren,
Yes, in the most up-to-date version of this pattern, the beginning of the round is in the center back!
All the best,
Lili