Bobble Yoke Sweater In New Colors
One of our oldest sweater patterns, the Bobble Yoke Sweater still delights us with its shifting textures, classic shape, and bitty bobbles!
Knit in one piece from the top down, this knit has a few tricks up its sleeve, including a marled yoke shaped by increases disguised as bobbles and a technique for working underarm stitches that avoids both sewing and the Kitchener Stitch.
How to improve on such a classic? First, we’ve gone ahead and combined the baby and kids patterns into one. Now the Bobble Yoke Sweater Pattern includes instructions for sizes from 9 months to child size 14, which means there’s no need to buy a new pattern when they’ve outgrown the old one!
And second, while the Bobble Yoke Sweater still uses two strands of our incredibly soft Line Weight merino, we’ve dipped into some of Line Weight’s newest colors to freshen up the look. Clear Sky (above) and Lilac Fog (below) are new to the family, while Peony Pink is an oldie-but-goody. All three look like the beautiful first light of day, but they’re not the only route to take.
Over the years, we’ve seen amazing versions of the Bobble Yoke Sweater in every color under the sun. River Rock or Fieldstone Gray with Heirloom White make a serious statement, while Kiln Red, Autumn Oak or Red Plum with Reed Gray or Wheat Flour bring on the cozy. What about Night Blue with Lotus Flower? Have some fun… And knit a classic!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBobbleYokeSweater, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Main Color (MC): 1 (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 4, 4) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino wool. Each skein is approximately 494 yards/ 100 yards; approximately 485 (560, 675, 790) (920, 1195, 1295) (1400, 1480, 1625, 1805) yards required. We used the color Peony Pink for size 9-12 months, Lilac Fog for size 3-4 years, and Clear Sky for child size 6.
- Contrast Color (CC): 1 skein of Line Weight, approximately 110 (120, 135, 150) (175, 195, 205) (210, 235, 235, 260) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 5, 24-inch circular needles
- A set of US 5 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Bobble Yoke Sweater Pattern
Gauge
24 stitches and 34 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, holding two strands of Main Color
Sizes
9-12 months (18 months, 2 years, 3-4 years) (5 years, child size 6, 7) (8, 10, 12, 14)
To fit actual chest circumference of 18 (19, 20, 22) (24, 24–25, 25–26) (26–27, 27–28, 29-30, 31-32) inches, with approximately 2–4 inches of ease.
- Finished Chest Circumference: 20 (20¾, 22, 24) (26, 28, 29) (30, 31, 33, 35) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 11¾ (13, 14½, 15¼) (16, 17, 17¾) (18¼, 19, 19, 19¾) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 6 (7, 8, 8½) (8¾, 10, 10½) (11, 11¼, 11½, 12) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 6½ (7, 8½, 9½) (11, 12, 12½) (13½, 14, 15¼, 16) inches
Sample: The sweaters shown here are size 9-12 months; size 3-4 years, worn with 3 inches of ease; and child size 6, worn with 4 inches of ease.
Pattern
The Bobble Yoke Sweater Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Please, would you create a pattern for this delightful bobble sweater for grownups?!!!!
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for reaching out and expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Happy crafting!
Gianna
I hope this happens soon! I would also love to see if there is a “full sweater” bobble sweater (and not just the yoke). Thanks for any consideration or pattern building!
Hi CAn you let me know if Posey would work?
Julie
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing in! Posy could work with this pattern, the only thing is that posy is a bit thicker than Line Weight, so I would suggest starting off by working a gauge swatch, from there you can determine if it will work or if you will need to make any adjustments to the pattern!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello! Can you explain the reason this pattern occasionally calls for MB-a vs MB-b? In my experience, it seems like the MB-b bobbles pop a little more. I am planning to make another one and would like to make all the bobbles in MB-b, but I’m not sure how that might impact the pattern! Thank you 🙂
Hi Jay,
We’d be happy to explain why there are two different types of bobbles in this pattern! The difference is that Mb-A is worked between stitches, like a make-1, while Mb-B is worked into an existing stitch, using up a stitch like a kfb. The two types are used depending on whether the stitch multiple for the increase aligns with the placement of the bobbles, keeping the bobbles appropriately staggered while making sure the yoke increases at the correct rate. I hope this helps clarify things!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hello, i am up to divide sleeves from body. Do I need to knit the stitches before placing on stitch holder and if not, do I need to break both yarns and join again before cable cast.
I am really enjoying this pattern and bought enough yarns to make 3 of them for my 3 granddaughters.
Thank you for your help
Catherine
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for writing in! In this pattern, you do not need to knit the stitches before placing them on the stitch holder. You also do not need to cut either strands of yarn yet! Once you have completed the Division Round, then you’ll cut the contrast color only and join in one more strand of the main color yarn. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
How difficult is this pattern for an intermediate knitter? I have never made a sweater before!
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for writing in! This sweater pattern would be around intermediate, so I would totally suggest giving it a try! Beginners and more experienced knitters as well could definitely knit this too. We always want to encourage people to be adventurous and explore all kinds of patterns! This sweater pattern also mentions tutorials you can reference throughout in case there are any techniques that it might help to have a visual guide for. Plus, we’re always here to help you! Just reach out to our customer service team at customerservice@purlsoho.com if you have any questions.
I hope this was helpful! Have a great day!
All the best,
Cat
Hi there! When I’m making the bobbles, when do I begin using the contrast color strand again? Is it when I turn the work and p2tog?
Hi Hillary,
Thanks for reaching out. You’ll reintroduce the CC strand after completing the entire bobble instructions! This would be when you start knitting the normal yoke stitches again. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Whoa, I did not see that coming.
So, this means that when I come through to do the next round, the stitches above the bobbles will have one strand instead of the normal two, right?
Hi Hillary,
Exactly! The stitch above each bobble will still have only 1 strand, but the other stitches on that round (the ones between each bobble) will have 2 strands.
All the best,
Lili
Hi!
I have a question about knitting the short row. Short row one… I knit 12 stitches place marker and wrap-t. After that do I purl to the end of the row? Or do I follow instructions for short row two? Thank you. It’s my first time working in short row
Rose
Hi Rose,
Thank you for your question! After knitting to 12 stitches before the marker you placed in Round 1, you will wrap the next stitch, and then turn your work so that the purl side of the fabric is now facing you (leaving the other stitches past the wrp-t unworked). Then, you will purl back across the stitches you just knit, until you reach 12 stitches before the next marker, and wrap + turn the next stitch. If you’re curious to see short rows in action, we have a tutorial for Wrap + Turn Short Rows that may be helpful! Whenever you work a short row, you will be working only a portion of the stitches on your needle for a shorter row than you would normally work. This will help to shape the back and shoulders of the garment without also lengthening the chest stitches so that the garment fits well and does not ride up along the neckline.
I hope this helps you continue on with confidence, but please don’t hesitate to reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com if you would like some more detailed help with this!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello! I’ve never knitted a sweater before but can’t resist giving this gorgeous sweater a go for my little girl.
Can you explain or link a video (I’m a visual learner) on how I can join one strand of Yarn B to Yarn A?
Is it just a matter of leaving a tail to weave in layer and start knitting two together??
Thank you
Hi Serlina!
We’re so happy to hear you chose this pattern for your first sweater project! When it comes time to use Yarn A and Yarn B together, all you will need to do is hold one strand of each color together for your working yarn. Everything else will stay the same, you will just be pulling yarn from two balls instead of one as you work.
I hope this helps you continue on in your sweater with confidence, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you Margaret! Another question… how would you read the following?
K3, [MB-a, k6] 10 (11,11,12,13) times, MB-a, knit row round. [77 (84,84,91,98) stitches]
In my case I’m knitting for the 5 year old!
You are very welcome! For the row you have listed, you will knit 3 stitches, then Make Bobble A (abbreviated “MB-a,” see the special instructions for the difference between Making Bobble A and Making Bobble B!) and knit 6 stitches. You will repeat the process of making bobble A then knitting 6 stitches for 13 iterations, make one more bobble A after that, and finally knit to the end of the round.
Please feel free to let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello, I purchased the bobble yoke sweater pattern in your store a while back, and never got to make it…… On the bottom it says 2016. Was this pattern redone since or is it still the same, and which yarn would you suggest I use?
Hi Chanie,
Thanks for your comment! The pattern should still be the same and we’d recommend using our Line Weight (https://www.purlsoho.com/line-weight.html) and Jade Sapphire’s 2-Ply Cashmere (https://www.purlsoho.com/2-ply-cashmere.html) for it as mentioned in the materials section. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hi, how would I adjust this pattern for 0-3 month size? Can I do this sweater in a solid color? Thank you! I love this pattern!
Hi Judy,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we haven’t written up a pattern for that small of a size, but you can absolutely make the modifications on your own! Since you’re planning on using just one color anyway, the easiest way to create a smaller size would just be to hold one strand on yarn at a time instead of two. This will automatically create a smaller gauge, and then you can figure out which size to follow the instructions for to create a 0-3 month size.
Here’s how to figure out which size to make: First, make a gauge swatch in pattern with your intended yarn and needles (holding just one strand). Once you know how many stitches you’re getting per inch, multiply that number by the chest circumference measurement you’re aiming for. Then, compare the resulting number to the stitch counts around the body of each size (120 (124, 132, 144) (156, 168, 174) (180, 186, 198, 210) stitches). The size that comes closest is the one you should make!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I am almost done knitting the body of the sweater, ready to start the ribbing. I’m knitting a size 5 sweater and a little worried I may run out of yarn to complete the sleeves since I used the blue color to knit the gauge swatch. Will I have enough of the blue yarn to complete the sweater? I was wondering if I should rib the body and sleeves with the white yarn like the collar. I purchased 2 skeins of the light blue and 1 skein of the white. The sweater is turning out so nice. I’ll probably make another one for my granddaughter in a larger size later on.
Thank you,
Cathy
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for writing in! As long as your gauge is correct (which I bet it is, since you swatched!) you should still have enough yarn to finish your sweater. If you do end up running low, you can always unravel your gauge swatch and use the yarn from that to finish it up, or like you suggested, do the ribbing in white. You’re also always welcome to reach out to customerservice@purlsoho.com to check to see if we still have a matching dye lot, if you decided to order another skein of this color!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I’m knitting this sweater for my 8 year old daughter. I’m only on the first part and I’m already confused!
I bought 1 skein of CC and it says to make the neckband that I take 2 strands of my CC and cast on 92 stitches.
So should I divide my skein into 2 balls? So that I can cast on 2 stitches from 2 yarn balls at the same time?
Thanks
Elissa from Canada!
Hi Elissa,
Thanks for writing in! There are two different ways to pull two strands from 1 skein of yarn. First, you could wind your skein into a center-pull cake and then pull from both the inside strand and the outside strand at once. Alternatively, you could do as suggested and divide your skein into two! I’d recommend using a kitchen scale for this method to make sure that the half-skeins are equal in weight (and therefore yardage). Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I have purchased this pattern and will start it as soon as my yarn arrives. The pattern doesn’t specify what kind of cast-on to use. Can you recommend which would be best for a stretchy-enough neckline?
Hi Kris,
That’s a great question! I recommend using our Long Tail Tubular cast-on for a clean and finished look at your collar. You could also use any stretchy cast on that you prefer! Hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella