Windy Day Blanket In New Colors
With flecks of color skittering across its surface, our Windy Day Blanket evokes the topsy-turvy beauty of dancing leaves in a gust of wind or blossom petals swirling in a breeze.
Using our favorite no-sew technique, you knit one triangle, rotate, and join stitches for the next… Easy and interesting at every turn!
For a dash of excitement, you switch colors sporadically, sprinkling bits of fun over the surface of your blanket… A touch wild but, really, a controlled chaos with each step outlined in the pattern below!
We knit our Windy Day Blanket in our blow-you-away beautiful Linen Quill Worsted. Fifty percent fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen, this yarn is as wonderful as the fingering-weight version, with the same springiness, durability, softness, and fascinating depth we love in both!
And its worsted-weight plumpness means that the knitting flies like the wind, and your blanket goes from cast-on to cozy double-quick.
Snowflakes, petals, or vibrant leaves in fall, choose between three gorgeous Windy Day Blanket Bundles or make your own from Linen Quill Worsted’s palette of twenty-two inspiring colors.
The crib-size blankets we knit take only nine skeins each, and a throw-size bundle comes with sixteen, so cast on for either size in the colors that give you a gust of inspiration!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Originally designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoWindyDayBlanket, and #PurlSohoLinenQuillWorsted. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Our Windy Day Blanket Bundle includes all the yarn you’ll need to make a Crib (Throw) size blanket… (NOTE: Windy Day Blanket Bundles are no longer available.)
- 9 (16) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill Worsted, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 164 yards.
- Color A: 6 (13) skeins of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 984 (2,132) yards required.
- Color B: 1 skein of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 79 (117) yards required.
- Color C: 1 skein of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 87 (164) yards required.
- Color D: 1 skein of Linen Quill Worsted; approximately 87 (133) yards required.
You will also need…
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 24-inch circular needles
Check out our 3 palettes, each one shown above!
FIRESIDE
- Color A: Stonewall Gray
- Color B: Bright Flamingo
- Color C: Kiln Red
- Color D: Red Poppy
GARDEN PATH
- Color A: Reed Gray
- Color B: Golden Green
- Color C: Fresh Pickle
- Color D: Peony Pink
HIGH SEAS
- Color A: Pale Oats
- Color B: Cobalt Blue
- Color C: Blue Quartz
- Color D: Vintage Celadon
GAUGE
18 stitches and 36 rows (18 garter ridges) = 4 inches in garter stitch
NOTE: A “garter ridge” is two rows of garter stitch. Also, the Throw size of this pattern uses almost the full skeins of Colors A and C, so swatch in Colors B or D and make sure you achieve this gauge to ensure that you have enough yarn.
SIZES
Crib (Throw)
Finished Dimensions: 28 inches wide x 42 inches long (42 inches wide x 56 inches long)
Samples: We knit the Crib size for all of our samples.
NOTES
PICKING UP STITCHES
For instructions and a video tutorial on how to pick up stitches along a vertical edge in garter stitch, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial and scroll down to the ”Along a Vertical Edge: Garter Stitch, Between Ridges” section.
CHANGING COLORS
Make sure you always change colors on right-side rows, i.e. with the right side of the blanket facing you.
BASIC SQUARE SCHEMATIC
BASIC TRIANGLE INSTRUCTIONS
BASIC TRIANGLE 1
Cast on 45 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog). [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
BASIC TRIANGLE 2
With the right side of Triangle 1 facing you, orient the cast-on edge vertically. Starting at Triangle 1’s right-angle corner, join yarn and pick up and knit 45 stitches [see Picking Up Stitches Note, above] along the top edge of Triangle 1 [see Schematic, above].
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
BASIC TRIANGLE 3
With the right side of the piece facing you, orient the picked-up edge vertically. Starting at Triangle 2’s right-angle corner, join yarn and pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 2.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
BASIC TRIANGLE 4
With the right side of the piece facing you, orient the last picked-up edge vertically. Starting at Triangle 3’s right-angle corner, join yarn and pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 3.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise to right needle, pick up and knit 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over. (Want to see step-by-step photos of this technique? Scroll down to Triangle 4 of our Four Points Baby Blanket pattern!)
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
ATTACHED TRIANGLE INSTRUCTIONS
NOTE: Having trouble visualizing the Attached Triangles section? One of our wonderful customers made this helpful PDF guide. Thank you Pajes!
ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1
Cast on 45 stitches.
With the right side facing you, pick up and knit 45 stitches along the edge of the previous Square’s Triangle 3. [90 stitches]
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work (Don’t worry that you didn’t knit all the stitches! You’re going to “eat them up” as work this Triangle. You’ll see!). [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, remove marker (rm), k1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 4 stitches remain, ending with Row 2 and removing the marker.
Next Row (right side): K2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle.
Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2
With the right side facing you, orient the cast-on edge of Triangle 1 vertically, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1.
With the right side facing you, turn the blanket counterclockwise so you can pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 4 of the Square indicated in the pattern.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, remove marker (rm), k1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Row 1 and 2 until 4 stitches remain on the needle, ending with Row 2 and removing the marker.
Next Row (right side): K2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3
With the right side facing you, orient the picked-up edge of Triangle 2 vertically, then pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 2.
With the right side facing you, turn the blanket 90 degrees counterclockwise so you can pick up and knit 45 stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1 of the Square indicated in the pattern.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K47, place marker (pm), knit to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, k2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, remove marker (rm), k1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Row 1 and 2 until 4 stitches remain on the needle, ending with Row 2 and removing the marker.
Next Row (right side): K2tog, slip 1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Turn work. [2 stitches remain]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch and off needle. Cut yarn and pull tail through remaining stitch.
LAYOUT SCHEMATIC
Below is a schematic of the full layout for the blanket. Work the Squares in order from 1 to 12.
Want to see it bigger? Here’s a pdf…
PATTERN
SQUARE 1
TRIANGLE 1
NOTE: Mark the right side of the work with a removable stitch marker to keep track of the right side.
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1 in the BASIC TRIANGLE INSTRUCTIONS (see Notes).
TRIANGLE 2
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 13 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color B, continue following the same instructions for the rest of the Triangle.
TRIANGLE 3
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 24 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions for the rest of the Triangle.
TRIANGLE 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
SQUARE 2
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1 in the ATTACHED TRIANGLE INSTRUCTIONS (see Notes).
TRIANGLES 2 + 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2 and BASIC TRIANGLE 3.
TRIANGLE 4
With Color C, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
SQUARE 3
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, following the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 36 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 20 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color D.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
TRIANGLE 2
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 2, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 27 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 18 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color C.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
TRIANGLES 3 + 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3 and BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
SQUARE 4
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
TRIANGLE 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 3.
TRIANGLE 3
With Color B, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3.
TRIANGLE 4
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 31 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
SQUARE 5
TRIANGLE 1
With Color B, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 37 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color B.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
TRIANGLE 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 2.
TRIANGLE 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 4.
TRIANGLE 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
SQUARE 6
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
TRIANGLE 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 1. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 22 stitches remain on the right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color D.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
TRIANGLE 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 5.
TRIANGLE 4
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 11 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
FINISHING: CRIB SIZE ONLY
If making the Crib size, weave in the ends and wet block. (If making the Throw size, continue with Squares 7-12.)
SQUARE 7: THROW SIZE ONLY
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 22 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, following the same instructions, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 18 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color D.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
TRIANGLE 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 6.
TRIANGLE 3
With Color C, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 11 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color C.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 3.
TRIANGLE 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
SQUARE 8
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, picking up stitches along the edge of Triangle 3 from Square 7.
TRIANGLE 2
With Color A, following the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, pick up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 5. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 31 stitches remain on the right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
With Color B, following the same instructions, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 22 stitches remain on the right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color B.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
TRIANGLE 3
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 18 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 3.
TRIANGLE 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
SQUARE 9
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, picking up stitches along the edge of Triangle 3 from Square 8.
TRIANGLE 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 4.
TRIANGLE 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3.
TRIANGLE 4
With Color C, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 27 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
SQUARE 10
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 38 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color D, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 1.
TRIANGLE 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 9.
TRIANGLE 3
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 3, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 19 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color B, following the same instructions, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 15 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color B.
With Color A, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 3.
TRIANGLE 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
SQUARE 11
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
TRIANGLE 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 8.
TRIANGLE 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 10.
TRIANGLE 4
With Color A, following the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 15 stitches remain. Repeat Row 1 once more. Cut Color A.
With Color C, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 4.
SQUARE 12
TRIANGLE 1
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 1.
TRIANGLE 2
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 2, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 4 from SQUARE 7 and repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 31 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
With Color B, continue following the same instructions for the rest of Triangle 2.
TRIANGLE 3
With Color A, follow the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 3, picking up stitches along the edge of TRIANGLE 1 from SQUARE 11.
TRIANGLE 4
With Color A, follow the instructions for BASIC TRIANGLE 4.
FINISHING
Weave in the ends, making sure to close the gaps where four squares meet. Wet block, if desired.
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This pattern is beautiful and shown in a crib size. Does this pattern also lend itself to an adult throw
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for your question! Yes, this blanket pattern also includes the option to make a throw size measuring 42 inches wide x 56 inches long. For the throw size, you’ll just be knitting more squares for the blanket! I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
I’m newish to knitting and i am intrigued by this pattern, but I do not understand why circular needles are being used. Can someone please let me know? Thanks!
Hi Cory,
Thanks for reaching out! We recommend using 24″ circular needles to accommodate the width of this project, as the stitches would be too crowded on straight needles. The longer cord of the 24″ circular needles provides the perfect amount of space for the stitches to sit comfortably though! Circular needles also help accommodate the curve of each row as you knit the triangles (each row isn’t necessarily a straight line in this pattern). Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! Really enjoying this knit, but have a couple of questions. I’m on triangle 4, and having trouble trying to figure out how to find the right stitch to pick up from the T1 cast on row. I looked at the 4 points blanket, but it’s difficult to see where to insert my needle to pick up, and the tutorials don’t seem to address this particular issue, unless I’m missing it. Also, after finishing Sqare1, how do I pick up stiches from side that has the k2tog? Meaning, where in the stitch do I insert my needle? I just want to make sure I’m picking it up property to get a nice join, but avoid too much bulk. The garter vertical pickup was very helpful, when she demonstrated inserting needle just below the bump! Can you assist with the other sides as to where to insert my needle? Thank you, and I love your patterns! Have made several so far. Beautiful, stylish, classic, and very enjoyable knits.
Hi Kona,
Thanks for reaching out! I can totally see how it’s a bit more complicated picking up stitches from the k2tog edge of a triangle. You can still follow the “Along a Vertical Edge: Garter Stitch, Between Ridges” section of our tutorial, but the space between each ridge will look slightly different.
First of all, the end of the ridge itself appears as a slightly longer line than it does in typical garter stitch. The space between the ridge is slightly larger as well, but there are more strands of yarn traveling throughout it. I’d recommend identifying the single strand that is closest to the ridge to the left and picking up the stitch from there. As long as you pick up your stitches in the same spot between each ridge, the join will look consistent!
I hope this helps, but please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili, this helps a lot. As you mentioned, as long as I’m consistent, it will be fine. I’ve finished Square 3, but confused about where Square 4 starts. Do I pick up along the bottom of Square 3, Triangle 4, and work clockwise? For square 5, which triangle do I start with? Can you direct me to instructions on how square 5 joins to the square 2 and square 4 please? Sorry about all the questions. I’ve reread all the directions, and can’t figure out which part talks about how square 5 joins to the adjacent squares. Thank you!!!
Hi Kona,
No worries at all! Square 2 starts with a Basic Triangle 1, so it’s not attached to any other square yet. When you begin the second triangle, which is Attached Triangle 2, you will be joining Triangle 2 to Square 3, Triangle 4, which attaches the entire square to Square 3.
Square 5 attaches to both Square 2 and Square 4 in a similar way. You’ll begin with Triangle 1, which isn’t attached to any other square yet, then you’ll knit Triangle 2, which attaches to Square 2, Triangle 4, and then you’ll knit Triangle 3, which attaches to Square 4, Triangle 1.
The pattern instructions don’t explicitly describe how these triangles all attach to each other, they just give instructions on how to get it done! But if you want to get a sense of how the attaching works ahead of time, I’d recommend taking a look at the LAYOUT SCHEMATIC in the NOTES section of the pattern. This shows the placement of every square and every triangle! It might be helpful to keep in mind that you will always be going in numerical order (for both triangles and squares) as you progress through the blanket. You’ll work through the squares in the order 1 – 6 (or 12), and within each square, you’ll always knit the triangles in order from 1 – 4.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili! Took a break to let it all sink in, and I’m back to tackling Square 4. Appreciate all of your help and advice!
Is this machine washable?
Hi Julie,
We recommend gently hand washing Linen Quill Worsted and laying it flat to dry! Because it is primarily made from wool and alpaca fiber, we don’t recommend machine washing it because the fabric will felt and shrink.
All the best,
Lili
I’ve been wanting to make this blanket in the “garden path” colors, and was waiting for some of the colors to come back in stock. Now it appears you are discontinuing linen quill worsted! 😭
Is there another yarn you’d suggest as a substitute? Will these colors be coming back in another similar-weight yarn? I’m so sad!
Hi Kelly,
I’m so sorry that we’re discontinuing Linen Quill Worsted! While we loved this yarn, not everybody else felt the same way, so we’ve had to make the sad decision to stop producing it. We hope you can understand!
I would suggest using the fingering weight version of Linen Quill held double. That way, you can use the exact same colors! You may need to size up or down your needles in order to achieve the gauge of the pattern though. I’d highly recommend swatching beforehand so that you can determine the best needles to use for the blanket!
All the best,
Lili
Considering linen quill worsted is being discontinued, would knitting with two strands of linen quill achieve a similar weight?
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, you should be able to achieve the gauge of this pattern with Linen Quill doubled! I’d just recommend swatching to make sure you choose the best needles for that. You may need to move up or down a needle size to get the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
How do I avoid the purl bumps being two different colors on the right side when there is a color change? I’m on square 1 triangle 3….the color change on triangle 2 and where I picked up the stitches for triangle 3 create a purl ridge with 2 colors.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out. If you’re seeing purl bumps of two different colors on the right side, then that means you’re switching colors on the incorrect side! All of your color changes should be done on the right side (i.e. you should begin knitting with the new color on a right side row), and this way, the multicolor row of purl bumps will be on the back.
All the best,
Lili
Thanks!!! I did realize what I had done…but I appreciate the response! A little frogging and I’m back on track!! LOVE how this blanket comes together!! I’m making for my grandson that’s due in November !!
I’m finishing up Shifting Angles with my Cotton Pure on a Cone, and I love the texture and easy care for a baby blanket. Although the fibre content is very different for the Windy Day Blanket, the gauge is not far off. Do you think Windy Day would be nice in Cotton Pure?
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for writing in! Actually, the gauge of this pattern is significantly larger than we normally recommend for Cotton Pure. This pattern was designed for a worsted weight yarn, and Cotton Pure is sportweight, so it’s a lot thinner. You could potentially meet the 18-stitch gauge, but your knit fabric will be very loose, and there will be gaps between the stitches.
I do think that this pattern would be very nice in Cotton Pure though, so what you could do is knit it at a more reasonable gauge for Cotton Pure (for example, the gauge of the Shifting Angles Blanket is 26 stitches in 4 inches). You could easily add more squares to each row and column so that the resulting blanket comes out large enough!
All the best,
Lili
I’m working on square 4 attaching triangle 1, which is done and following the directions for attached triangle 2. I thought I followed the directions carefully and am attaching to square 3 along triangle 4, but as I work it there seems to be fewer stitches along the edge of triangle one and too many along bottom of triangle 4 in square 3. I worry that when the triangle 2 is finished it will not meet at the corner. Any suggestions, or should I just continue? Does this sound right?
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for reaching out! Would you be able to send a photo of your work so far to [email protected]? That way, we can more easily visualize what’s going on and provide advice!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, in the directions for square 3, triangle 1, regarding when to switch colors – it says to work color A “until 36 stitches remain on right needle.” I’m working with a circular needle. Does this just mean, “until 36 stitches remain to the right of the marker”? Thanks!
P.S. Earlier, I asked if I could substitute two strands of linen quill held together, instead of using linen quill worsted. I’m pleased to report this has worked out to the correct gauge, and the density of the fabric is perfect!
Hi Kelly,
First of all, we’re so happy to hear that using Linen Quill held double worked out so well! That’s great news for anyone else who wants to try that as well.
And that’s a good question you have about the pattern. In a previous version of this pattern, we had written that instruction as follows:
With Color A, following the instructions for ATTACHED TRIANGLE 1, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 36 stitches remain on right needle after final Row 1. Cut Color A.
This was slightly more clear, since it indicated that you were counting your stitches after finishing a Row 1 (so that your stitches are still divided by needle), then knitting the final repeat of Row 2, and then cutting Color A. We’ve added this back to the updated pattern in order to avoid confusion!
So as you knit, I’d recommend counting the number of stitches you have on your right needle after finishing a Row 1. Once you have 36 stitches, then it will be time to knit one more row (Row 2), and then cut your yarn! Alternatively, you could count the repeats of Rows 1 and 2–you’ll need to repeat these rows a total of 8 times (so, 7 more times after the initial time through them) before switching colors.
Hope this helps clear things up and improve the pattern!
All the best,
Lili
I love this pattern I just finished weaving in the gazillion ends and the blanket is stunning, What I found helped me in figuring out where to attach triangles was pinning little slips of paper with the symbol for square and triangle as I finished a triangle. I still managed two times to mistakenly began a triangle in the wrong spot, but it got easier as I progressed. I definitely plan to make another blanket with this pattern.
Good afternoon. I would like to make this blanket as a housewarming gift. Would your yarn Partridge work well for this knit? Thanks in advance for your kind reply.
Hi Mary,
Partridge would be a great choice for this blanket! I would just recommend knitting up a gauge swatch beforehand to make sure that you can match the gauge of the pattern. You may need to size up or down your needles to achieve the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I am in the middle of making this as a throw (I am 1.5 triangles away from completing the crib size portion, so halfway!) and I have a finishing question (as I am thinking ahead to take advantage of the sales). As a not very experienced knitter, my edges are a little wonky and do not line up at all. I could get leave it be as it shows the love put into it, but I am also contemplating putting a border around it (I saw a photo that someone posted somewhere and they did that). I just have no idea how. I imagine that I do continue with garter stitch and that I pick up 180 stitches along the sides and 135 stitches along the top and bottom. If that is correct, my two questions are (1) how do I do the corners and (2) how much yarn would I need (and I imagine that I would get the linen quill and double it (since I am currently using the linen quill worsted)? Thank you very much!
Hi Cory,
Adding a border to this blanket is a great idea, and it’ll definitely help smooth out the edges! I would recommend knitting each border one at a time in the following order: First, pick up the stitches along one of the long edges and knit your border. Then, do the same for the other long edge, on the opposite side. Now each short edge will be slightly extended due to the borders on each side, and you can pick up all the stitches along one of the short edges, including the extra width created by the borders on each long edge. Finally, do the same for the other short edge! This will create a border that goes all the way around the blanket, including the corners!
The amount of yarn that you’ll need will depend on how wide you’d like the borders to be. If you let me know, I can help with the calculations! And doubling Linen Quill is exactly what I’d recommend–we’ve found that it’s very easy to match the gauge of Linen Quill Worsted that way.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much for this Lili! Super helpful. I am thinking that a 3” border should work (if you disagree, please tell me!). In linen quill. Which I’ll have to double. So how much yarn do you think I’ll need?
Great! 3 skeins of Linen Quill should be just enough for a 3-inch border, with the yarn doubled.
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I love the blanket <3 it's simply beautiful. I have just finished square 2. Basic triangles 1,2,3 go smooth and fast, then number 4 requires more focus AND the attached triangle slows me down and makes me nervous 😅 as there are a lot of babies in my family "on the way" I need to speed up my "production". I am curious if it is possible to make the squares separately and then sew them?
Hi Fred,
So glad to hear that you love this blanket! You can absolutely knit each square separately and sew them together at the end. That method will also give you the opportunity to play around with the orientation and rotation of each square if you’re so inclined!
All the best,
Lili
I LOVE this blanket but would like to make it with the Linen quill yarn, which is a lighter weight.
How would I go about it? If I use the pattern instructions with the size 3 needles recommended for the linen quill yarn won’t I get a smaller blanket?
Also, how would I estimate the yardage needed in each color? I would like to make the large size (throw)
Please HELP!
Hi Doina,
Glad to hear you love this blanket! One thing you could do to easily adapt this design for Linen Quill is to hold two strands at once. That will make the yarn thicker so that you can achieve the original gauge of the pattern and follow it as written!
If you want to knit with just one strand though, I’d recommend making more squares in each row and column. That way, you can still follow the instructions for each square as written, you’d just need to make more of them to reach the full size of the blanket at your smaller gauge!
Let me know which option you end up choosing, and then I’d be happy to help with the yardage!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for your reply. Yes, I would need your help with yardage for the single strand version.
Hi Doina,
You will need approximately, 7 skeins of color A, and 1 skein each of colors B, C & D to make a throw-size blanket of this pattern using a single strand of Linen Quill. The approximate yardages of each color are about 2,741 yds for color A, 151 yds for color B, 212 yds for color C and 171 yds for color D. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thank you for your reply. Would the same yardage apply to the double yarn version or would it be different?
Hi Doina,
To use Linen Quill doubled, you will need 10 skeins for color A, and 1 skein each of colors B, C & D! Let me know if there are any other yardages you might need calculated and I would be happy to help!
I am quite confused! I am about to start Triangle 2 of Square 2. I can see where to pick up stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1. But then I am supposed to turn counterclockwise and pick up the top edge of Triangle 4. (Which doesn’t exist yet) If I pick up the edge of Triangle 1, I do not end up anywhere near Triangle 4. What am I missing???
Also assuming that I always pick up stitches right to left. Is that correct?
Thanks for any help you can provide!
Diane
Hi Diane,
Thank you for writing in! It looks like you might be at the instruction for the attached triangle 2 of square 2 which will come later in the pattern. For now you should be at Basic triangle 2 with the following instructions:
BASIC TRIANGLE 2
With the right side of Triangle 1 facing you, orient the cast-on edge vertically. Starting at Triangle 1’s right-angle corner, join yarn and pick up and knit 45 stitches [see Picking Up Stitches Note, above] along the top edge of Triangle 1 [see Schematic, above].
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you need further clarification! You can also always send over a photo of your project to [email protected] so we could better visualize what is going on!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi I only cast on 40 stitches * when I join do I cast on 40then pick up 40 and then do I still mark after 47 stitches or how do I adapt the placemarker please?
Hi Paula,
Thank you for writing in, 42 stitches should work well with you new numbers. This pattern can be extremely tricky to modify and can cause issues further down the line as you complete further squares. We’d recommend adjusting your needle size, yarn, or gauge for different sizes rather than altering the pattern itself. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
This pattern is so confusing. I have reread several times. Can you perhaps republish the pattern so it makes more sense? I have got 6 squares done, only have 3 to go. Can’t seem to get the 3rd square attached correctly.
Any suggestions?
Hi Maryjean,
Could you please let us know what issues you are encountering? We’d love to help get you back on track! I will keep an eye out for your reply!
All the best,
Gavriella