Knit Four Points Baby Blanket
We love receiving your questions and comments, and for this project, took special notice of your requests for a knit version of our Crochet Four Points Baby Blanket.
The conversion was as smooth as can be. Borrowing a neat trick from Joelle’s book, More Last Minute Knitted Gifts (specifically the smart no-sewing way she connects the triangles in her Entrelac Baby Blanket), our Knit Four Points Baby Blanket is even more straightforward than the original!
Still in Linen Quill, our soft, lightweight blend of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen, we’ve added Wild Radish to the choice of palettes. It’s crisp and fresh, soothing and happy, just right for babies and adults.
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Whether you’re a knitter, crocheter, or both, our Four Points Baby Blankets are a fun and interesting way to get off the x and y axis, plus they’re really satisfying and beautiful!– Kristy
Update: New Gauge
February 2018
We’ve updated the gauge for this pattern to suit our thick and squishy Super Soft Merino! It’s an ideal weight to bundle up baby for a bracing stroller ride or to plop her down for some play time on the floor… Not that those over the age of two are prohibited from cuddling up in this wonderfully cozy blanket! In nine intriguing color combinations, the Four Points Baby Blanket in Super Soft Merino is a fun math game and a very clever knit!
Update: New Colors
October 2018
Our Four Points Baby Blanket has lived through several incarnations: the original crocheted version, then the original knit version, a knit Super Soft Merino adaptation (pictured above), and now another knit one in Linen Quill, this one dipping into our latest palette of rich and evocative colors. There are ten color stories to choose from, four oldies-but-goodies and six newcomers. All include just four skeins of our wonderfully interesting and beautiful Linen Quill and all will inspire a mood!
Update: New Design
July 2019
Our Easy Puzzle Blanket is a simple variation on the classic Four Points Baby Blanket: A square of garter stitch triangles with a few colorful stripes thrown in… A puzzle that’s anything but puzzling! Choose from three Easy Puzzle Blanket Bundles (no longer available) and find the free pattern here!
Update: New Yarn
August 11, 2021
Our Four Points Blanket is a classic whose time has come for a very practical update. Four Points Blanket, may we introduce you to the modern convenience of the washing machine? In our gorgeous Campo, you can, indeed! A blend of 50% wool and 50% organically grown cotton, Campo is amenable to the shakes, spins, and swirls of a cold, gentle machine wash. Read all about the new update in Campo here!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Kristina McGowan. Click here to see even more of Kristina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
Our Four Points Baby Blanket in Linen Quill Bundle (no longer available) comes in lots of gorgeous palettes (NOTE: some palettes are no longer available, including the one we used, Wild Radish)! Each bundle includes…
- 4 skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 396 yards required per color. We used the palette Wild Radish, which includes one skein of each of the following…
- Color A: Pale Oats
- Color B: Lavender Opal
- Color C: Heirloom White
- Color D: Oatmeal Gray
NOTE: To make the Throw Size you will need an additional skein each of Colors A–D; approximately 811 yards required total per color.
You’ll also need…
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 32-inch circular needles
Our Four Points Baby Blanket in Linen Quill Bundle (no longer available) is also available in these pretty combos. Pick your favorite!
- Top Row: Hearth and Thistle
- Bottom Row: Desert Marigold and Speckled Feather
Gauge
26 stitches and 52 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Size
Crib Size (Throw Size)
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 36 x 36 inches (52 x 52 inches)
Notes
For instructions and a video tutorial on how to pick up stitches along a vertical edge in garter stitch, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Pattern
Triangle 1
With Color A, cast on 156 (238) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog). [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains. Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.
Triangle 2
With the right side of Triangle 1 facing you and its cast-on edge oriented vertically, use Color B to pick up and knit 156 (238) stitches (see Notes, above) along the top edge of Triangle 1.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains. Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.
Triangle 3
With the right side of Triangle 2 facing you and its picked-up edge oriented vertically, use Color C to pick up and knit 156 (238) stitches along the top edge of Triangle 2.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains. Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.
Triangle 4
With the right side of Triangle 3 facing you and its picked-up edge oriented vertically, use Color D to pick up and knit 156 (238) stitches along the top edge of Triangle 3.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise to right needle, pick up and knit 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over.
Here’s a wrong-side row broken down into steps…
Knit to last stitch (above left), slip last stitch knitwise to right needle (above right)…
… pick up and knit 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1…
…and pass slipped stitch over.
Row 2 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased.]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains. Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.
Finish
Weave in ends and block as desired.
Learn About Linen Quill + All Our Beautiful Yarns
We designed this project to highlight the uniquely beautiful qualities of our Linen Quill, a wonderful fingering-weight yarn that is a blend of 50% wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. It feels amazing in your hands, and in 70 jaw-droppingly gorgeous colors, Linen Quill is the candy store of yarn! Want to play with lots of those amazing colors? Check out our Linen Quill Minis, available in 40- and 20- color bundles!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Linen Quill knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns (What does fingering-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to fingering-weight yarn will answer your questions and more!)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop wool yarn
- Shop alpaca yarn
- Shop linen yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 45 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 1000’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Do you have other yarn recommendation that does not have any wool in it?
Hi Gemma,
The blanket would also be beautiful in our Cotton Pure yarn (100% pima cotton) and a similar colorway (to the Wild Radish in Linen Quill) would be Pale Lilac, Silver Fern, Birch Bark and Egret White. You should be able to get close to gauge (working up a small swatch in garter stitch just to check your numbers and make sure would be the most helpful) and you’ll need about 2 skeins of each color. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions and thanks a lot for writing in!
Kristy
So pretty! Luckily, so many people I know are having babies that I get to keep knitting baby blankets! 🙂 If I wanted to make this with some Worsted Twist (might be my favorite yarn of all time), how many stitches would you recommend I cast on? I should be able to figure this out as I know it’s 36 inches that I must multiply by the stitches per inch, but this one is stumping me, as I would think the Worsted Twist would require LESS stitches than the Linen Quill to achieve 36 inches. Keep up the beautiful, creative work!
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for writing! The easiest thing to do would be to work up a small swatch in Worsted Twist and see how many stitches you are getting per inch in garter stitch. Your starting cast on will actually measure 26 inches (the outer edges of the blanket are the triangle’s hypotenuses and are a bit longer than the cast on edges!). So after you see how many stitches you are getting per inch, you’ll simply start by multiplying that number by 26 and casting on that amount of stitches to start. You can then just follow the rest of the pattern as written. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions and best of luck with the blanket!
Kristy
Thank you so much for the helpful and quick reply! Can’t wait to start!
This is lovely except that the pattern isn’t yours. I’ve been making this for 20+years…it’s an Elizabeth Zimmerman originsl.
Dear Martha,
Thank you so much for your comment.
This blanket is not a version of any Elizabeth Zimmerman pattern we are aware of. Our blanket is a knit version of our Crocheted Four Points Baby Blanket published this spring. While Elizabeth Zimmerman does have blankets involving triangular elements, hers appear to be achieved by the techniques of mitering and/or short rows. The construction of our Knit Four Points Baby Blanket is based on the technique known as Entrelac and this pattern is specifically taken from the half-triangle sections of a blanket pattern written by me many years ago called the “Entrelac Baby Blanket” in my book More Last-Minute Knitted Gifts.
Elizabeth Zimmerman is one of our favorite knitters and her way of thinking about knitting is truly brilliant. Our love of garter stitch, for instance, is a direct result of her influence. I would not be surprised at all to find somewhere that EZ invented the technique of Entrelac, although in my brief search online I found no evidence of that.
Best wishes,
Joelle
Thanks for creating your lovely design into a knitting pattern. Really love the design and the yarn.
Oh , my…I have been waiting for this pattern in knit!! Thank you!! See you in a few days to pick out the colors!!
Julie
A propos Elizabeth Zimmermann: I am knitting up a small sample of this blanket in order to try out different selvedges. On my first triangle, I worked every stitch (knitted), as per pattern. On the second triangle, I slipped all first stitches purlwise, as per EZ. Both of these selvedges give me trouble at the final points, where I have k2tog down to only 2 stitches, then one, then pulled the thread through last stitch. Kinda wonky, and I still have a challenge to pick up 24 stitches on next triangle. Do you have any detailed tips about these issues?
Thanks a heap, Pat M. in Takilma, Oregon
Hi Pat!
Thanks for writing! Could you please describe the trouble you’ve been having at the final point or the nature of the wonkiness? When picking up the stitches, the best tip is to just to strive for consistency. If you pick up in the same spot for each stitch, everything should remain even and tidy. Here is a useful video to show you how! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=30&v=N7HuRXWsnfU) Please let us know if this helps, and best of luck with the blanket!
Kristy
I was not sure how washable this yarn is. Also,could you comment on softness.
Hi Susan,
We recommend hand washing the blanket in cold water. The yarn itself is hearty and durable (due to the 50% fine highland wool and 15% linen) but with 35% alpaca, it is also soft to the touch. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
How soft is the yarn? I ask because of the linen. Other linen yarns I have used are too harsh for baby items. Thanks.
Hi Barclay,
Thanks for writing! The alpaca content (35%) in Linen Quill provides softness and we found it to be a great choice for our Four Points blankets, not in any way harsh. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
This linen quill is so dreamy to work with – incredibly soft and I would imagine it will continue to soften with washing through the years! Time consuming but a beautiful gift to give one of your special babies!
Hi Jean,
We’re so glad to hear that you’re enjoying the yarn! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Help! My first triangle is gigantic! I checked my gauge, etc. Is this pattern for a larger blanket?
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! Are you using the Linen Quill or another kind of lace weight? How big is the triangle? Let me know!
-Adam
I’m about 6 rows in and second guessing my reading of the pattern. The decrease only happens on one side, correct? Then, the fact that there are fewer stitches leads to a triangle shape? The non-decrease looks so “straight” thus far & it’s worrying me.
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for writing in! Don’t worry, you are correct! There is only one decrease on one side. One side of the triangle is your cast on, the other is your rows without decreases and the third side is your side with decreases. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Hi Adam,
Thanks for this reply to Kristin! I am noticing the same thing with the decrease on only one side. I am down to about 100 stitches left and it does look strange. I am trusting that it comes out right and I can figure which side be begin the second triangle. This blanket is very time consuming and I have to have it finished by February! Anxious to see how it comes together.
The seam where I am joining triangle 4 to the cast-on edge of triangle 1 looks awful. I am following the instructions but have had to frog the triangle several times already and the results continue to be spectacularly messy and uneven. Can you offer some advice or should I just skip this approach and join the final two sides with mattress stitch? This is a gift so it needs to look good…..
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for writing in and I’m sorry this isn’t turning out as expected! I suggest passing the cast on stitch over the live stitch knitwise so as to twist the cast on. This will tighten up the stitch and hold it closer to the work. It might add a little flare too! If this still looks messy, then I would just do mattress stitch at the very end. Hope this helps!
-Adam
100% AGREE that the 4th triangle looks a mess and I also frogged it three times. Was thinking of doing the mattress stitch and so will go forward with that plan. This is for my future grandson and I want it to look good.
Hello Rebecca,
Thank you for writing us and congratulations on your future grandson! I’m sorry to hear this final step has proved to be nuisance for you, but we appreciate your feedback! I hope the rest of the blanket was an enjoyable experience and I’m sure in the end it will turn out beautiful.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I was wondering if this pattern could be used with a slightly larger needle size? I have a size 5 needle that’s 26 inches long – could I use that with the Linen Quill yarn and have any success? My local stores are out of the size 3, 32 inch circular needles and I’d like to get started on this blanket!
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! A US 5 is a little large for this yarn. A US 4 might work, but a US 5 will definitely give you more of a net-like fabric unless you are a very tight knitter. I’d do a little garter swatch to see if you like the definition. It could be great or maybe not! If anything, I’d try to find a US 4 at your local yarn shop. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Hi Adam! I just wanted to let you know that I went forward with the 5 needle and have loved how it’s turning out! I need to just finish the last triangle – my project for this week! Thanks again for your help!
Mary
Hi Mary,
So glad it worked out! Best of luck on the finishing!
-Adam
Hello…I’m picking up stitches from my first triangle and it turns out that I can only pick up about 47?? What happened?!
Scared to knit this triangle now as they will all be out of sync.
Please help!
Thank you
Hi Charlotte,
Thanks for writing in. Hopefully we can figure this out! It’s possible that you are picking up stitches incorrectly. Please refer to our tutorial for reference. Since you cast on 156 and knit 156 rows, you should be able to pick up 156 stitches again (one stitch for every row knit). Be sure to also take a look at the schematic at the top of the pattern to see if you are picking up along the correct edge. Hope this helps and let me know if you still have questions!
-Adam
Hi. Would it be possible to post a picture or short video of the pick up from triangle 4? I am having the same issues with the pick up of the cast on edge of triangle 4 looking like a hot mess.
Thank you.
Hi Grace,
Thanks for writing in. Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this. We will keep your request in mind though for the future! Thanks!
-Adam
I would love a video tutorial on joining triangles 3 and 4. I gave up and knit my fourth triangle like the others and mattress stitched them together.
Hi Jill,
Thanks for the suggestion! At the moment we don’t have the capacity to do a video tutorial on this, but will keep it in mind for the future!
-Adam
what other yarns would you recommend for this pattern? i’m looking for a slightly heavier weight, maybe using a size 7 needle?
Hi Francine,
Thanks for reaching out! I recommend Anzula – For Better or Worsted or Worsted Twist. They are both lovely and would work well for this pattern. You’d probably need two of each color.
Best of luck,
Adam
And if I use this heavier weight yarn, would I change the number of cast on stitches?
Hi Francine,
You wouldn’t change it if you wanted a larger blanket, but to get roughly the same size you’d probably have to cast on 60% of the stitches. Hope this helps!
-Adam
What is the row gauge supposed to be for this? I tend to get stitch gauge right but my row gauge ends up less than what’s needed for a 4″ swatch. With all of the decreases I’m concerned that I’m not going to end up with triangles that make up a square. Any advice on how to fix this problem? Knowing what the row gauge should be would certainly help.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for the question. The row gauge is 14 rows/inch (7 garter ridges). Row gauge is tricky — sometimes you have it and sometimes it’s impossible to get. I always block my swatches and this is a good time to see if you can manipulate the gauge while the yarn is wet. For this project, since you are casting on 156 stitches and decreasing every other row, you are knitting twice as many rows as you have cast on stitches. This means that your stitch gauge should equal half of your row gauge. In this case, our stitch gauge is 6.5 stitches/inch and our row gauge is 14 rows per inch, which is close enough. Hope this helps!
-Adam
-Adam
-Adam
I’m knitting this pattern with cotton yarn from my stash. Unfortunately the stitch/row ratio is ~2.5/3 rather than the ~1/2 that the suggested yarn appears to be. Would you suggest aggressive blocking to make my triangle equilateral or given that its cotton should I figure out a different decrease plan to get the appropriately sized triangle?
Hi Kai,
Thanks for reaching out! I would try blocking a swatch first to see if you can stretch the stitch gauge out, which should also tighten up the row gauge; however, if you are knitting this as a baby blanket, you probably won’t be blocking it that aggressively every time you wash it. In that case, I would recommend washing and drying your swatch to see what the finished stitch to row ratio will be, and possibly adjusting the decreases from there.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thanks. That was excellent advice!
Hi,
I will be started this project. My question is, how is Triangle 4 connected to Triangle 1 i.e. right side edge of Triangle 4 and cast on edge of Triangle 1?
I’m envisioning how the piece comes together and cannot figure out how this part works. Or will I need to stitch the last two edges together? Many thanks.
Hi Grace,
Thanks for writing in! Triangle 4 is attached to triangle 1 as you knit. You will slip the last stitch of the row knitwise to right-hand needle, pick up 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1 and then pass slipped stitch over. You will be doing this on every wrong side row and it will create an attached triangle as you complete it!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi,
I plan on making this blanket with the yarn i already have laying around, which is unfortunately not in equal amounts. I’m just wondering whats the minimum amount of each color i’d need to complete each triangle.
Thanks!
Hi Hannah,
Thanks for writing in! We used just a little less than all of each of the 4 balls. I would recommend having the full yardage for each section as your personal gauge may eat up slightly more or less yarn. Our Linen Quill comes in 439 yard balls and we used 4 here, 1 of each color.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
hey – please post a video on how to join 3 and 4. I understand you say you don’t have resources, but there is obviously the demand. I was loving this pattern until now and I’m stopped in my tracks – I’m not even a new knitter!
Hi Jannah,
Thanks for the request, but as this is a free pattern we can’t always provide videos for all directions. If you are having a specific problem I’d be glad to help you solve it. Thank you again for the suggestion.
Best,
Adam
In regards to joining Triangle 4 to Triangle 1, I was having the same issue as everyone else but I seem to have noticed what was causing it.
If you are holding the work with the wrong side facing you, the issue happens when you pick up on Triangle 1 without twisting the work (if that is any help). Because you are facing the wrong side, you are technically picking up the stitch from back to front when you don’t twist.
If you twist (or fold) the triangle, you will need to pick up the stitch on the first triangle from front to back (right side to wrong side). This stops it from looking so messy and you get a clean seam.
Hope that helps everyone!
Hello Sarah,
Thank you so much for writing in with this! We are sure that this will be helpful to others in our crafting community!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I’m about to start Triangle 2 and want to make sure I pick up the stitches from the correct edge — do I pick up FROM the cast-on edge? In the schematic it looks like the cast-on edge is situated horizontally and that you pick up the 156 stitches from the vertical edge on the right. Thanks!
Hi Romy,
Thanks for writing in! You do not pick up from the cast on edge for triangle B. The schematic is helpful for this. You will be picking up from the edge perpendicular to the cast on edge for triangle B.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello!
The video says to only pick up 3 of every 4 stitches (for vague reasons), but the pattern (if I’m reading it right) says to pick up every stitch. Could you explain the contradiction? Thanks in advance!
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! The video we provide is more of a general tutorial for picking up stitches than specifically for this pattern. As knit stitches are wider than they are tall, you pick up stitches at a different rate along side edges in order to achieve a flat fabric. Here, you will be picking up a prescribed number of stitches along the side edge of the first and subsequent triangles. TO make this process easier, I like to place removable markers at the quarter way mark, half way mark and three quarters mark. I then pick up a quarter of the stitches between each set up markers. This helps make the pick up even and easier to achieve.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Well, I was not a close reader of the instructions as they related to joining triangle 4 to triangle 1. I am nearly finished with triangle 4, and wonder if you have another way to join them now that they are completed. If you don’t I will probably just weave them together.
Thanks,
Diana
Hi Diana,
Thanks for writing in! I suggest using mattress stitch to seam the two ends together.
All the best,
Adam
Should I wash & block this blanket when I’m finished? I’m using the Linen Quill recommended in the pattern. I’m worried if I block it that the amazing loft will flatten. Thank you in advance for your reply!
Hi Kristin!
Thank you for writing in! We recommend hand blocking this blanket rather than fully submerging it in water to block. We’ve got a great tutorial here. Please let us know if you have anymore questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi,
Great pattern and design. My question is: what is the magic of 156 stitches? Does the pattern follow a certain multiple, or can I choose a smaller even number. I want to make a dishcloth, or kitchen towel, and want to make sure I pick the right number for the pattern to work on a smaller scale.
Hi Wren,
Thanks for the question. A cast on of 156 is just to get the blanket to a certain width. You can actually cast on any number of stitches you want to personalize this pattern. The only thing I suggest is that you choose a yarn whose row gauge is similar to its stitch gauge. This will make your dishcloth more square-shaped. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
I’m interested in making this blanket a little larger and with a size 7ish needle. Also, I love worsted twist. I know, I’m difficult! The colors I like are lavender moon, ballet pink and heirloom white. Could you help with converting the pattern ? Love Purl Soho!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for writing! The easiest thing to do would be to work up a small swatch in Worsted Twist and see how many stitches you are getting per inch in garter stitch. Your starting cast on will actually measure 26 inches (the outer edges of the blanket are the triangle’s hypotenuses and are a bit longer than the cast on edges!). So after you see how many stitches you are getting per inch, you’ll simply start by multiplying that number by 26 and casting on that amount of stitches to start. You can then just follow the rest of the pattern as written.
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions and best of luck with the blanket!
Cassy
“Knit to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise to right-hand needle, pick up 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over.” I don’t understand how to connect triangle 4 to 1. Every time I follow these instructions I get a whip stitch effect joining the two triangles. How can I remedy this? Is there another way to explain how to connect the two triangles?
Hi Francine,
Thanks for writing us. The whip stitch effect is actually quite normal as long as you aren’t getting long floats or the seam itself isn’t distorted. Please refer to our tutorial on Picking Up Stitches just to make sure you are doing this part correctly. Let me know how it goes!
-Adam
Hi – thanks for the gorgeous pattern. If I wanted to make this blanket bigger and use two skeins of each color (still in the Linen Quill), how many stitches would I need to cast on in order to use all the yarn? Thank you for the help!
Hi Katy,
Thanks for writing in! I did a little math and if you would like to use 2 skeins of each color, you should cast on 206 stitches and knit the pattern as written. THe only difference will be that you will pick up 206 stitches along the edges when you get to triangles 2-4.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, I’m using one skein per color. I cast on 156 and cam decreasing on only one side, per the directions. I am almost finished with the one skein and having nothing that looks like a triangle. Please advise.
Hello Mary,
Thanks for writing in! This sounds very frustrating. Are you using Linen Quill to knit this blanket? What shape has it knit into and what are the dimensions of that shape? I hope I can help!
-Marilla
Do I decrease on both sides (as in the crochet directions)? Or just on one side as stated here? When I just decrease on one side, it doesn’t look like a triangle and I only have decreased to about 100 stitches when the yarn is almost all gone. I am using Purl Soho Cotton Pure. I just unraveled it so I don’t have measurements. I just had nowhere near the yarn needed so there was no point continuing.
Hello Mary,
I’m sorry your blanket is not going as planned. I hope I can help. The pattern is correct, you only decrease on one side for the knitted version of this blanket. Since you are using Cotton Pure, which has a deferent gauge and yardage amount than Linen Quill, you will need to adjust the pattern accordingly. Since Cotton Pure is a sport weight yarn instead of a fingering weight yarn, if you cast on the same number of stitches the blanket will come out larger. Cotton Pure also has less yards in a skein than Linen quill, 262 yards verses 439 yards, so you may need two skeins instead of one per triangle. Good luck with your project and please let us know if you have any further questions.
Warmly,
Marilla
Good morning,
Just starting the final triangle, and for some reason I only picked up 152 stitches. All the others have been 156. Not sure what has happened. If I leave it will it finish short on triangle 1? Should I add four stitches into my first row?
Other than this issue the pattern has been very easy to follow, and is so lovely. Making it as a gift for a friend, but would love to keep it! Very cozy.
Cheers,
Jess
Hello Jess,
Thank you for writing in and apologies for such a late response! Unfortunately if you don’t start with 156 stitches the triangles will not line up correctly. I would attempt to re-pick up your stitches to see if you missed any. Since you had the correct number of stitches on all the other triangles I believe you will be able to pick up 156 stitches.
Please let me know if you have any further questions and I will get back to you promptly!
Warmly,
Marilla
My yarn has arrived and I can’t wait to get started! Is there a specific type of cast on you recommend?
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! In general, when not noted, we use the long tail cast on and it would work well here!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you for such a nice pattern!
I am a beginner knitter and I have a couple questions about the gauge. I purchased the line weight heather yarn (for size 1-4 needles) rather than the linen quill that’s suggested in the pattern. My first question is– the pattern calls for size 3 needles. My test swatch with 26 stitches is 3.5 in. wide, rather than 4 in. wide. Is that because I used a different yarn, or because I’m knitting too tightly? And, I don’t mind if the overall size of the blanket is a little smaller but I’m wondering if the proportions will be affected, and not result in a square shaped blanket, if go ahead with the needles I’m using and continue knitting with the same tension.
My second question is about the numbers listed on the website for all of the different types of yarn. For example, both the line weight and the linen quill say 6.75-8 online, but on the tag that comes with linen weight yarn, it says it’s for U.S. size 1-4 needles. What does the 6.75-8 mean?
Thanks so much for your help!
-Maggie
Hello Maggie,
Thanks for writing in! I believe this is a combination of gauge and tension. If you go up to a US 4 I believe you would be back on track. If you don’t mind making a smaller blanket sticking with size 3 should also be fine.
You are right! The label on the yarn and the Information on the site are deferent. The label has more needle options and therefore a wider gauge range. The 6.75- 8 listed on our website refers to the stitches per inch you get with US 1 – 4 (2.5 – 3.5 mm) needles. Thanks for looking out! I will pass this along.
I hope you find this all helpful. Let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
So I am having the same attachment issues from 3 to 4. If anyone has done this elegantly, would you consider posting a video how-to? I know that may be asking a lot, since it could require someone holding your iPhone (sideways please!) to shoot over your shoulder. If i could figure it out I’d so it, since I work in television and film and it would be easy – but alas – my seam looks hideous. Thanks!
I’ve made this several times with beautiful results each time. Lots of compliments too!
Would this pattern work using regular knitting needles or do they have to be circular?
Thanks!
Hello Kim,
Thanks for writing in! Because you are casting on 156 stitches, straight needles will be to short to fit all those stitches. I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Hi!
My daughter is a professional dancer who tours alot, and she has asked me to make her a blanket that is light but warm. I think this is the perfect pattern! I have chosen to use a size 4 needle with Plymouth’s Linaza yarn (50% alpaca, 25% linen, 25% tencel). This yarn gets 440 yards to the hank. Will this yarn work with the pattern as written?
Thanks!
Hello Elana,
Thank you for writing us. I think his will be a great traveling blanket. I believe this yarn should work well, however I would be sure to knit a gauge swatch before starting to be sure.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I can’t seem to avoid some holes when picking up stitches. If I pick up the stitches
further into the fabric the edge is bulky. I am not picking up the edge stitches. Any help? Did anybody else’s have small holes?
Hi Sue Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having a challenge here. It sounds as though you may be pulling a little too tightly when picking up stitches as tighter tension can cause holes to appear. I would suggest loosening up your tension when picking up stitches and see if that helps the issue.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
i want to make sure I am using the right tutorial video for starting triangle 2, am I using the first video on the link provided for the horizontal edge?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! For picking up the stitches for triangle 2 and 3 you will want to use the “Along a Vertical Edge: Garter Stitch” on this page: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/picking-up-stitches/
Happy knitting!
Cassy
thanks Cassy! what about 1 to 2?
Hi Michelle,
You will use this technique to pick up triangle 2, 3 and 4!
Best,
Cassy
Hi there – Just FYI, I am using straight needles which are a little over 12″ or 30cm and have plenty of space – I am using the Linen Quill. I am onto my 2nd triangle. Its much easier using straight needles on a blanket in my experience!
Adore this yarn and love the way its knitting up.
I do suggest that people look at the schematic that Purl Soho provide as this is the key to how the triangles form and also which edge to pick up on. If you follow it it works. 🙂
Hi Margie,
Thanks for writing in! I’m so happy to hear that you are enjoying your blanket.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
just finished knitting this blanket came out beautiful! how do I finish the last triangle open end?
Hi faigy,
Thanks for writing in! The final (4th) triangle is connected as you knit it. On wrong side rows, you will slip you last stitch and then pick up a stitch from the edge of triangle 1 and pass slipped stitch over the picked up stitch. Thus, as you knit the 4th triangle, it connects to the first. When you are done knitting the 4th triangle, all you will need to do is weave in your ends and block you lovely blanket!
Best,
Cassy
when connecting triangle 4 to 1, you slip the last triangle 4 stitch over the triangle 1 stitch. Do you then have a triangle 1 stitch on the right needle. I thought I understood but now that I am there not so sure.
Thanks for any help.
Sue Ellen
Hi Sue Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! I think that you have it almost right. When you knit to the last stitch, you will slip it, pick up a stitch from triangle 1 using your right needle and then pass the slipped stitch over this stitch from triangle 1. When picking up stitches, we pick up and knit from triangle 1 and then pass the slipped stitch over that new stitch.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi, I’m almost done with eh first triangle, and I’m worried that I won’t have enough yarn. I’m using suggested needle size, and the linen quill yarn, so I’m not sure what’s wrong? Shouldn’t I be able to do each triangle with just one ball of yarn?
Hi Liz,
Did you do a gauge swatch before you knitted to make sure you were knitting with the correct size needle? Each triangle should just be one ball of yarn.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
I am just finishing the first triangle. To begin the second triangle, your instructions say the cast-on edge should be oriented vertically but the diagram shows it as a horizontal … am i missing something?
thanks
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for writing in! To begin the second triangle, you will want to hold the first triangle so that the cast on edge is oriented vertically. The diagram shows the totality of the blanket but if you look at triangle A, you will be holding it so that the cast on edge is vertical (turn the diagram 90 degrees counter clockwise) in order to pick up the edge stitches.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hello! I’d love to make this blanket but in a yarn that is machine washable. Would Cotton Pure work? If so, would I need more than one skein of each color?
Thanks so much!!
Hi CJ,
If you are looking for a yarn that is machine washable, I would recommend Anzula in Squishy, it is a lovely yarn to work with. The cotton pure is closer to a sport weight/light worsted, the gauge would be to big for the pattern.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
I wonder if you could knit four of these blankets together to get an afghan for a bed? I love the simplicity of the triangles and I know the person who would be getting the afghan would also love the simplicity as well.
Forgot to mention, would the blanket be too flimsy made larger?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly could work four of these blankets into a larger one! I think that the most straightforward way to do so would be to knit four separate blankets and either mattress stitch them together or crochet them together. The resulting fabric of this blanket is on the thinner side but it is warm and lovely and the Linen Quill that we use here has enough body to make the single blanket not too flimsy at all!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I loved every moment of knitting this blanket. The instructions are clear, the pattern is easy to follow and the end result is spectacular. I know that it will be cherished for years to come by its newborn recipient.
I love this pattern and want to knit it in Blue Sky Fibres Organic Worsted Cotton for my friend who is about to have a baby. How many stitches would you recommend casting on with this yarn. It’s a heavier weight worsted yarn.
Thanks in advance
Hi Claire!
Blue Sky Fibres Organic Worsted Cotton is about 4 stitches per inch on a size US7-9 needle. If you are getting 4 stitches per inch with your yarn and needles you should need to cast on 96 stitches to start!
I hope this helps!
Carly
Can this be made as a larger throw?
ALso, can the wonderful crocheted Granny Stripe blanket be done as a knit blanket?
Thanks!
Kristin
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for reaching out! You can certainly make this lovely blanket larger! You can actually cast on any even number of stitches you want to personalize this pattern. This will also be the number of stitches that you will pick up for each new triangle. The only thing I suggest is that you choose a yarn whose row gauge is similar to its stitch gauge. This will make your throw more square-shaped.
For the lovely Granny Stripe Blanket, we only have a crocheted version at present. We will certainly consider your request for the future!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I am ready to start triangle 4 and I am terrified! Do I pick up the stitches from right to left, starting at the center of the blanket where the 4 colors meet? That means I start to connect #1 and $ in the middle. Is this correct?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you are correct that you will be joining the two triangles starting in the middle and working your way out. You can do it!! We’re here to help if you have any problems!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, I’m also at the point of doing triangle 4, but can’t for the life of me figure out how to do it. I’ve knitted to the last stitch in a
Row 1, I’ve got my stitches on the left needle and empty right needle, but now don’t know what to do. Is there any other way you could explain it? Sorry, feeling very silly here. Thank you.
Hi Katya,
Hopefully I can clear this up for you! Just to back up a bit to make sure everything is where it should be, you should have begun Triangle 4 by picking up stitches along the top edge of the just completed Triangle 3, beginning at the center of the blanket and ending at the outside edge. When beginning Row 1 of Triangle 4, you will then be knitting from the outside back to the center, stopping when you have one stitch left, and slipping this last stitch knitwise. It sounds like you might have already turned your work, but before doing the next step you should still have the wrong side of the blanket facing you, with all of your stitches on your right hand needle and an empty left hand needle. Next, insert the tip of the right hand needle into the first cast on stitch of Triangle 1, just past the center point of the blanket, from the wrong side to the right side, wrap your yarn as if to knit and pull up the new stitch. Pass your slipped stitch over this new stitch and you are ready to turn and start Row 2!
Continue in this manner, moving up one stitch along the cast on on each wrong side row, until you have run out of stitches. I hope this makes more sense! If it is still giving you trouble, you can always complete the triangle without joining as you go and use mattress stitch to seam the blanket instead.
Best of luck!
Julianna
Can’t figure out how to pick up the sticker on the right side as I keep leaving a “wrong side” joining stitch.
Any suggestions?
Hi Mary-Alice,
Although you are picking up from the wrong side and it looks a bit odd at first, I found that after completing another row or two the odd stitches blended neatly into the garter stitch pattern. The seam between triangles 4 and 1 does not look completely identical to the seam between the other triangles, but after blocking the difference should be hardly noticeable!
Best,
Julianna
I have begun triangle 4, and just frogged the first five or so rows because my pick up stitches at end of odd rows was bunchy. I am having a hard time figuring out where to pick up. If I pick up the actual cast on stitch it is loose. (Did I cast on using the wrong stitch?) I attempted to pick up at the next row after cast on, and in places my seam was ok, in places it was very thick and then the bunchiness started.
Hi Kathy,
We used a Long Tail Cast On for this project, but any relatively stable cast on such as a Cable Cast On should work just fine. I tried a sample and picked up my stitches just above the cast on edge, and there is a bit of extra bulk in the seam, but it lays flat from the right side. If you are still having difficulties, please do send us a picture at [email protected] so we can troubleshoot this!
Best,
Julianna
I think that a provisional cast on at the first triangle, which would liberate live stitches when the time comes to knit the 4th triangle, would be a good idea. I knitted the blanket and it came out beautiful but the last triangle was hard.
Thank you for the nice patterns!
Hi Julianna, I just found this explanation buried in the comments, this play-by-play description of how to join the 4th triangle to the cast-on edge is SUPER helpful, may I suggest you add it to the pattern itself? Thank you!
Can I do with purl instead of knit?
Hi Raquel,
Thanks for writing in! Although most knitters prefer knitting, if you use a knitting style that makes purling easier or if you simply would rather purl than knit, you can certainly purl this entire pattern to obtain the same result!
Best,
Julianna
Would like to buy the pattern, yarn etc from you
Hello Karen,
Thank you for reaching out! This pattern is free and can be downloaded by doing with following;If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%
To purchase the yarn you can go this page for the bundle; https://www.purlsoho.com/four-points-baby-blanket-in-super-soft-merino-bundle.html
To purchase individual skeins of Super Soft Merino you can follow this link; https://www.purlsoho.com/super-soft-merino.html
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
If I want to use a super bulky yarn. I am thinking I need to do a gauge to see what would give me a 4” based on that then cast on based off of gauge for 36” then knit per pattern until one stitch remains… Do you think that would still yield the same amount of stitches of cast on vs. rows? So that when I pick up the edge, it would be the same as the first cast on? I feel I may be missing something..
Hello Rita,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes this should work out beautifully. We knit this blanket up in our Super Soft Merino at a much larger gauge, I would recommend checking it out for a little inspiration.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Will one skein of each color of the Linen Quill yarn definitely be enough for each color block? I just started this and am on my Color A and still have over 100 stitches on the needle and am worried that I will run out. My gauge isn’t super loose and I’m using the recommended needle size. Just wondering if I should adjust something?
Hello Candice,
Thank you for reaching out! As long as you have the correct gauge you will have plenty of yarn. Each triangle uses approximately 360 yards.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi. I am about to start triangle 2. Should I be picking up all my stitches along the edge first and then knitting the first row or am I picking up and knitting each stitch as I add it? Thanks!
Hi Alexis,
Thanks for reaching out! You should be picking up all the stitches with the working yarn before beginning the first row. You can see how in our Picking Up Stitches tutorial!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am having trouble with the 4th triangle. Following directions I move the last stitch to the right needle, pick up a stitch along the top edge of triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over and turn – BUT my yarn is on the wrong side. Have tried many times and can’t figure this out. Help!
Hi Allison,
Thanks for writing in! Since you are beginning a new row, you should be able to move your yarn to the back of the work around the right side edge of the piece after turning, just like you would when beginning a new row in a regular garter stitch. If that doesn’t solve the problem, please feel free to send us a picture of your work at [email protected] so we can troubleshoot this for you!
Best,
Julianna
Just out of curiosity, I wanted to make a larger blanket so could I use a bulky yarn and a larger needle with the same 156 cast on?
Hi Missy,
Great question! The math will still work out regardless of what weight yarn you use, so yes, you could certainly change the yarn and needle size to make a bigger blanket! Bulky weight yarn is quite a step up from Linen Quill so your blanket would be significantly larger, though it’s hard to say how much larger due to the construction of the blanket, but it would be a very fun experiment!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I decided to wait to seam triangle 1 and 4 instead of connecting them as I knit. Do you have a tutorial for how to seam a vertical and horizontal garter stitch edge together? I only see seaming for when the garter stitch is going the same direction. Thanks!
Hi Alexis,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not have a tutorial for how to seam the two edges together. As you have seen, we do have a tutorial for how to seam garter together when it is going in the same direction (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/seaming-garter-stitch/). Seaming garter in alternating directions can be a bit tricky and my best advise would be to start out following the directions for seaming garter stitch and treat the purl bumps along the horizontal edge as you would the purl bumps on the vertical edge. I would also suggest starting at the middle and working out to the edge. Locking stitch markers would also be helpful to ensure that you don’t get any unintentional creep in the seam! This may take a little bit of trial and error to get right but once you get into the groove of it, you should be able to make a nice seam!
Best,
Cassy
How would I convert this for your Cotton Pure yarn and a size 5 needle?
Hi Molly,
Thanks for writing in! Although adjusting this pattern for different gauges can be tricky due to the unusual construction, I believe if you are getting a gauge of 5 stitches per inch with Cotton Pure, then casting on around 125 stitches for the first triangle and picking up 125 stitches to begin each of the rest of the triangles should result in a blanket close to the same size as the original!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
How much Cotton Pure would I need to make the Four Points Baby Blanket as described in this question? Cast on 125 and knit on a size 5 as is suggested here, so how many yards of (skeins of) Cotton Pure? I’d like to buy it while on sale.
Hi Tamera,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend getting 8 skeins, or two of each color, to be on the safe side. You may only need one of each, but any unwound yarn can be returned for store credit if you don’t end up using it.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I would like to clarify that for the 4 point baby blanket I use US 11 Needle and I cast on 60 stitches with the soft merino wool
connie w
Hello Connie,
Thank you for reaching out! You are exactly right – Size US11 and a cast on of 60 stitches with Super Soft Merino. You are good to go!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
What does “wrong side” mean in the context of knitting in the round? Should this be on circular needles or no? Thanks!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! Although we used circular needles to more comfortably accommodate the stitches, this pattern is not knitted in the round and you could use long straight needles if you preferred. Whether you are knitting in the round or flat, the right side refers to the public facing or “prettier” side of the knitted fabric, and the wrong side refers to the “less pretty” side. In the case of the Four Points Blanket, although the vast majority of the blanket is garter stitch which looks the same on both sides, the color changes will have a crisp, tidy appearance on the right side, and will look a bit more jumbled or blended together on the wrong side.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I love the look of this blanket!! What do you think of this as a dishcloth- cast on 36 stitches, needle size 5 or 6 ??? Thanks
Hi Georgette,
Thanks for writing in! I think this is a fantastic idea – in fact, I have a coaster-sized version of our Four Points Baby Blanket that I whipped up to help answer another question, and I think it’s adorable! Due to the fact that the triangles are all knit on the bias, it’s hard to say exactly how many stitches to cast on, but with a bit of trial and error I’m sure you will be able to figure out a nice dishcloth size, and 36 stitches sounds like a good starting point.
Best of luck, and please let us know how your mini blankets turn out!
Julianna
What a nice blanket! I started to cast on 156 stitches, but it’s too large for me. Can I also cast on fewer stitches (and of course pick up that same number of stitches for triangel 2-3-4), follow the and still have a nice blanket that’s in proportion? Only a little bit smaller?
Hi Esther,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you can definitely size the Four Points Baby Blanket down by casting on fewer stitches, as long as you pick up the same number of stitches that you originally cast on to begin each triangle.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Can I also make the whole blanket not in the garter stitch but just regular one side knit, other side purled? Or will it change up the size dramatically?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the row gauge of stockinette and garter are quite different, I do think this will have a drastic effect on the shape of the blanket. Rather than affecting the overall size, I think you will end up with ripply or wavy triangles since the amount to pick up for each triangle is calculated based on garter stitch. I think it would be best to stick with garter stitch for this pattern!
Best,
Julianna
I would like to make this a lap blanket. Should I just add more stitches and/or use a thicker yarn. I really like the linen Quill, though.?
Hello Gwen,
Thank you for reaching out! You can cast on any even number of stitches you want to personalize this pattern. This will also be the number of stitches that you will pick up for each new triangle. The only thing I suggest is that you choose a yarn whose row gauge is similar to its stitch gauge. This will make your throw more square-shaped.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Is the linen quill washable?
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for writing in! For Linen Quill, the care directions are to hand wash and lay flat to dry!
Best,
Cassy
I’m having a problem with the second triangle. The directions say to orient the cast-on edge of Triangle 1 (Yarn A?) vertically but the diagram shows the cast-on edge as being horizontal. What am I missing here? Thank you.
Hello Pamela,
Thank you for reaching out! This just has to do with how your blanket is oriented, so you are casting on a a one of the two shorter angles in your triangle. This means that your cast on could be oriented either vertically or horizontally, but when you begin you blanket you will orient it as vertical.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi,
I am chugging along on my first triangle. Confirming all your decreases are on the same end (RS)? Also what edge are you picking up on? Bind off, cast on, decrease end?
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that all of the decreases are on the same side. When you pick up stitches, they will be along the side that does not have the increases. Check out the schematic above which I think, illustrates the directions that you will be knitting and where the stitches will be picked up!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Thanks for the help. One more question I did one decrease on the wrong side about halfway through my triangle. Any ideas on how to correct when I pick up on that side or should I just go with a slightly crooked edge?
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for writing in! Although there isn’t anything you can really do differently while picking up the stitches, it is unlikely that the wobble in the edge will be noticeable after the next triangle is picked up and knitted and the finished blanket has been blocked.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I have 4 skeins of stash yarn to make this blanket and want to hear thoughts on working the first triangle in the opposite direction. Would it work to start with one stitch and increase every other row? What would be the increase that mirrors k2tog? I’d like to optimize the yarn and avoid the math. The pattern seems to naturally play out after the first triangle.
Thanks,
Hello Anna,
Thank you for reaching out! This should work out fine, I would try knitting one front and back for your increase. Let us know how it goes!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hello!
I am going to try this strategy out! Thanks for the idea! Is this how you’d suggest going about the first triangle?
Cast on 1 stitch.
Row 1: Knit front and back.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Knit until the last stitch. On last stitch, knit front and back.
Row 4: Knit.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until desired size.
Based on a test swatch, I think this yields the right look, but I wasn’t sure if I should increase at the end of a row (as I described above) or at the beginning of a row in order to best mimic the look of the decrease in the pattern.
Thanks!!!
Hello Halley,
Thank you for reaching out! You have the exact right idea- I would just do your first row as a knit and your second row as knit front and back.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am doing the merino wool version of this blanket and am wondering about the seams between colours on the wrong side. Should there be a visible “lump” (edge) where the colours connect or should it be completely flat? I have followed the linked tutorial but the seam edge seems quite thick.
Hi Madison,
Thanks for reaching out! The seams between the colors will have a very small amount of bulk, and the transition between colors should look very clean from the right side, but a bit more like a seam and less tidy on the wrong side. If your seams are small but there, it sounds like you are picking up your stitches correctly! If not, you could try picking up your stitches closer to the edge of the fabric to minimize bulk.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am interested in making the Four Points Baby Blanket in the super soft merino wool yarn. I’ve looked and looked all over the web site and cannot find the free pattern. Can you please send me the link? Thank you.
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! You can find the Super Soft version of this pattern by clicking here: Four Points Baby Blanket in Super Soft Merino.
Best,
Julianna
Would the seam be neater if you made an edge stitch at the end of the garter rows? My seams are ok but there is a little ridge which I assume after blocking won’t show much. What do you think about using an edge stitch and picking up one stitch through either both loops or just one, leaving a decorative edge on both sides?
Hi Liane,
Thanks for reaching out! A small ridge or seam at the join between triangles is totally normal and can’t really be avoided, but you are correct that it should mostly block out. We haven’t tried it so I can’t say for sure how it would turn out, but you could try slipping the first stitch of each row and then picking up one stitch in each slipped stitch for the next triangle – you should end up with the same number of stitches!
Best of luck and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi excited that to try this pattern! If I wanted to make this blanket with 8 skeins of yarn instead of 4 (I’m trying to make the blanket about twice the size) how many initial cast on stitches would I do?
Hi and thanks for writing in! Due to the construction of this blanket the math is a bit tricky, but I would suggest casting on about 210 stitches to make sure you won’t run out of yarn. This will result in a finished blanket size of 47 inches square.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! I’m new to knitting and found this pattern. Shouldn’t you decrease each side? How does it not become an uneven triangle? Thanks!
Hello Sara,
Thank you for reaching out! If you look at the diagram presented on the pattern you will see where the cast on is and how the triangles are created. The longest side to the angle is the decreased side, while the cast on and non-decreased side are at a right angle.
I hope this clears things up and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m starting this, and am curious about how long it takes to knit one triangle? Hoping to have done for a baby shower – but want to understand about how much time it takes?
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! The amount of time it takes to knit something varies greatly from person to person and depends a lot on your level of comfort and speed with the techniques used. I can’t say for sure how long it will take, but this is a fairly straightforward knit – it is all garter stitch with a single decrease every other row, although you do start out with quite a few stitches. If time is a concern, you may be interested in our Four Points Baby Blanket in Super Soft Merino, which is a much faster knit! I’m sorry I can’t give a more exact estimate, but I hope that helps!
Best,
Julianna
This is such a lovely blanket, but I’m worried that the chunky yarn will be a bit too snug for the Australian climate. Do you have any advice for downsizing to a worsted or DK weight?
Hi Bee,
Thanks for reaching out! While we do have a bulky weight version knit in Super Soft Merino, this original version of our blanket, which you can see above, is knit in fingering weight Linen Quill, which should be just right for warmer weather.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi All,
I’m working on the 4th triangle & thinking ahead about finishing. What are your thoughts on whether or not to do blocking? Does it make a noticeable difference in final look?
Thank you purlsoho!! Love your patterns.
Emily Wolff
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the appearance of every knitted item will improve with blocking, it is still up to you! Certain stitch patterns such as lace or cables definitely require blocking, and in the case of this garter stitch blanket, it will help to straighten any wobbly edges and even out any areas of uneven tension. Especially with Linen Quill, it will also make the yarn quite a bit softer and drapier, but how much of a difference it makes does vary. If you are happy with the blanket as is, nobody will mind if you don’t block it!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello,
I just finished my first triangle and am ready to add the second and pick up stitches, but I can’t quite figure out how to do it. The Tutorial is zoomed really far out so it’s difficult to see where the needle goes in. How many strands of yarn is it under? Or is it through the purl bumps themselves? Do you have any other images that could help with this? Thanks!
Hi and thanks for writing in! You will be picking up your stitches in the “valley” between purl ridges, not in the purl bumps themselves, and should always be picking up one full stitch, or two strands of yarn, away from the edge.
I hope that clears things up!
I’ve read that when picking up stitches in garter stitch along the vertical the ratio is usually 1:2 (1 stitch for 2 rows) as you are picking up in the valleys between purls. So how do I pick up the same number of stitches that was cast on for the first triangle? Am I missing something? Thanks
Hi Penny,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that you will be picking up one stitch for every two rows of garter stitch! Because you only decrease one stitch on every other row, you will be knitting twice as many rows as there are stitches, so when you pick up one stitch for every other row, you should end up with your original number of stitches for the new triangle.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello! I love this pattern and was wondering what the recommendation would be for the number of skeins if I wanted to use the new Sweet Grass yarn.
Hello Abby,
Thank you for reaching out! I love this idea. To knit this blanket up in Sweetgrass you will need one skein for each of your four colors.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I just started this blanket using a cotton and with four skeins. My yardage leaves me 5 yards short of what you show as your total…did you have extra of each skein? Hoping so! Thanks for your time.
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! We did indeed have some extra yarn left over from each triangle. We used about 360 yards of the 439 yards in each skein for this blanket, so you should have plenty!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I’m now picking up stitches for triangle 2 and seeing that the wrong side is not coming together seamlessly at this pick up line. Is that as it should be and the “right side” should be the side that looks seamless? Just making sure I’m on the right track. Thanks!
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, it is totally normal for there to be a visible seam or difference on the wrong side when picking up stitches for this blanket. It sounds like you’ve got it!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there,
I think I have a mental block. I am trying to start triange four and I just can’t seen to understand it. I have given it a try several times, but I’m struggling with picking up the stitches.
The way I am understanding it you start with the right side facing the knitter. The first row then says wrong side and I end up on the outside edge. Some way I am not understanding where to begin picking up the stitches…right to left with right side facing knitter? I have myself all wound up about this. Just can’t get it. Help me, please if you can. Perhaps I’m not teachable.
a
Hi Teri,
I hope I can help clear this step up – it is certainly tricky! You should begin Triangle 4 by picking up stitches along the top edge of the just completed Triangle 3, beginning at the center of the blanket and ending at the outside edge, with the right side facing. When beginning Row 1 of Triangle 4, you will then be knitting a wrong side row, from the outside back to the center, stopping when you have one stitch left, and continuing on with the joining instructions from there.
I hope that clears things up, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
Julianna
Can this be made larger for a lap blanket?
Hi Michele,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you could certainly knit up a larger version either by substituting a thicker yarn and larger needles or by casting on more stitches! If you decide to start with more stitches, you will just have to make sure you pick up the same number of stitches as your cast on number when starting each triangle.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I am confused about which way to start picking up stitches for Triangle 3. Do I start picking up at the center or the edge? I got the first two triangles completed and understand picking up on the right side of the work but am unsure about orientation even after looking at the diagram.
Hi Charlotte,
Great question! When beginning every new triangle, you will start picking up stitches at the center of the blanket with the right side facing and work your way out to the outer edge of the blanket.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, just wondering if you think this could be knitted in a worsted/DK weight yarn? I’m looking at something like your Worsted Twist using size 8 or 9 needles. If I cast on an even number in between the linen quill and the supersoft merino patterns (perhaps 120 stitches for example), do you think the pattern would still work?
Thanks!
Hello Bec,
Thank you for reaching out! This should work out great – you would just do your cast on and follow the instructions until 1 stitch remains.
Let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
I am knitting this blanket and I was wondering if there is a way to attach the next color of yarn without seeing the transition on the reverse side? I am not an expert knitter but am willing to give it a try if it’s something a little more technical.
Thank you
Hello Ann,
Thank you for reaching out! There is not a way to do this that I know of that doesn’t give you a transition.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
What cast-on method would you recommend – to give the nicest edge?
Hello Dale,
Thanks for reaching out- We used the long tail cast on for this lovely blanket!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am horrendous at picking up stitches. Do you think there is a way to construct this using short rows? In order to join the last triangle there would have to be some picking up but I’m really terrible at it. Thanks!
Hi Nevalee,
Thanks for reaching out! While we don’t have instructions for knitting this blanket using short rows, if you prefer not to pick up stitches, you could certainly work Triangle 1 four times and then sew the triangles together.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello! I’d love to try this pattern in the Linen Quill, but I’m a bit nervous about buying yarn without feeling it first. How does this feel against the skin? I want something that’s nice and soft for baby. Thank you!
Hi Lorraine,
Thanks for reaching out! While Linen Quill does have a soft drape and halo from the alpaca content, the wool and linen can feel a bit rustic and it takes a few washes to reach peak softness. If you prefer a yarn that is as soft as can be, I would suggest substituting our Posy instead.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! About 100 rows in to Triangle 1, so I have a little over 100 stitches left on my needles. One of my edges, on the side where I’m finishing rows with k2tog is looking sharply diagonal, but that is not happening on the other side. Will this get worked out when I start adding the next triangle or is there something I’m missing?
Thanks!
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! That actually sounds exactly right. This blanket is made of 4 right angle triangles, so while you are knitting, one edge will be straight or perpendicular to the needles and the other will be angled away from the needles. Just carry on knitting and you will have a blanket in no time!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I have only just found your site and love the colours & yarns. I want to make this blanket for a warm Australian climate, the wool would be to hot for Queensland. Can you suggest one of your yarns which would be suitable & which is natural, maybe a cotton/silk mix or a cotton/linen?
Hi Jenny,
Great question! I think either Cattail Silk or Sweetgrass would be lovely substitutes for this pattern! Both yarns are the correct weight and wonderfully soft and cool for warm weather blankets. Cattail Silk also happens to be machine wash and dry, which is perfect for babies!
I hope that helps and happy knitting!
Julianna
I want to do this pattern in stockinet stitch instead of garter stitch. Is there anything I must change in the pattern to do this?
Thank you,
Ingrid Raber
Hi Ingrid,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, due to the drastic difference in row gauge between stockinette and garter stitch, this pattern will not work in stockinette – I’m afraid the triangles would come out very elongated and the finished blanket would not lay flat. I’m so sorry about that!
Best,
Julianna
I have completed block A and am starting to pick up stitches for B. Do I pick up from the center out or in the other direction? I know this is a dumb question but the diagram shows the cast on edge to be horizontal and I would pick up on the vertical edge center out. Don’t know why this is confusing me. Love the pattern.
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you will be picking up stitches for each triangle starting at the center of the blanket with the right side facing. Please don’t hesitate to ask if you run into any other questions!
Best,
Julianna
I am currently about finishing the 3rd triangle and am rather intimidated to start the 4th triangle based on the prior comments and questions about attaching it to the 1st triangle. I’m leaning towards doing the mattress stitch but was wondering if aesthetically, if there is any noticeable difference or pro to doing the pattern as written or sewing the triangles together via mattress stitch. If I decide to go the mattress stitch way, does it matter which color yarn I use (triangle 4 vs triangle 1 color)? Thank you!!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out! I have seen both methods and, while they look a bit different from each other, both create a slight seam or ridge on the wrong side, so there isn’t a clear advantage to either method. You could certainly try the joining method for a few rows, and if it is too difficult, complete the triangle normally and join it with mattress stitch. You could match either color when seaming the triangles together!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I am looking to begin this blanket with a yarn that (I think) is a sport weight yarn, 50g = 100m. I have US size 7 needles to use. My first question is, is this needle size correct? I tend to knit a bit tighter. Second question would be, how many stitches might you recommend to get a similarly sized blanket?
Thank you!!
Hi Maddy,
Thanks for reaching out! A US 7 might be a little big for a sport weight yarn, so I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch to make sure you will be happy with your yarn and needle combination. You can also then measure your stitches per inch and multiply that number by 25.5 to determine how many stitches to cast on.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi,
I started picking up the stiches for triangle 2 but I always only pick up 154 stitches instead of 156 according to the pattern. I started twice from the beginning and and the end of the row I can’t get any further to pick up more stitches. Do you have any thoughts or tips?
Thanks
Désirée
Hi Désirée,
Thanks for writing in! It’s hard to say what exactly is going wrong without seeing your work, but is it possible that you accidentally started with 154 stitches instead of 156? If you are sure that the first and last stitches you are picking up are right in the very corners as close to the edge as possible, this is the most likely cause. Going forward, you can choose to either stick with 154 and make sure you pick up 154 for Triangles 3 and 4 as well, or increase two stitches using Knit Front and Back increases in the first row of Triangle 2 and then pick up 156 stitches for Triangles 3 and 4. Either way, this two stitch difference won’t be noticeable in the finished blanket!
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello
I’ve started to knit the first triangle. The decrease only seems to be happening on one side, is that normal or am I doing something wrong? I’ve followed the pattern. Both sides look similar to me in textural appearance (right and wrong side). Also, I thought the number of stitches was supposed to decrease by one every other row when i knot 2 stitches together, but overall it’s only decreased by one stitch thus far, after 6 rows. I’ve probably just accidentally picked up a couple of stitches along the way, so can probably easily fix that at this point. Can anyone offer advise. Especially on whether both sides are supposed to look like they are decreasing? I’m a relatively new knitter so trying to use this blanket to learn and get used to knitting so would appreciate any help early on so I can correct before I get too far.
Thanks
Hi Patricia,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you have almost got it! It is correct that you will only be decreasing at one edge of the triangle, so you will have one sloped edge and one straight edge, and garter stitch is fully reversible, so the two sides of the fabric will look the same. However, you should be decreasing one stitch every other row, so if the total number of stitches isn’t getting smaller, then you are probably creating extra stitches somewhere in the row. It’s hard to say what exactly is going wrong without seeing your work, but I would suggest working a few extra decrease evenly spaced throughout your next row to get back to the right number of stitches and keeping an extra close eye on your work going forward to try to figure out where you are adding the stitches.
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! I actually have questions about making a larger blanket, such as a throw size. I’d like to use a worsted weight yarn. What would you recommend for yarn and how much? Also what size needles? I’m assuming the same number of stitches. I’ve made this baby blanket twice, and I love it.
Thanks!
Becky
Hello Rebekah,
Thank you for reaching out! You are absolutely correct, If you go up to a worsted weight yarn you will have a good sized blanket by sticking with the same cast on number. I would recommend using a US7 or US8 for a Worsted Weight yarn. To stick with this pattern you will need 396 yards for each color.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
This is very helpful. Thank you so much. In addition to being a great baby gift, I think it can be a great wedding gift. I love your site!
Becky
HI! Would 4 skeins of the Purl Soho Posy yarn be enough to complete this pattern?
Hi Casey,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, Posy doesn’t have as much yardage as Linen Quill, so one skein of each color won’t be quite enough for the blanket. You can either purchase two skeins of each color, or add one skein of Pocket Posy to each color, but since Pocket Posy and Posy are dyed separately the dye lots won’t match, so you will need to alternate skeins to blend in the Pocket Posy.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, I’m about halfway through triangle 4 and just did a count of how many stitches left for triangle 4 and how many stitches I can pick up on triangle 1. I have 3 more stitches for triangle 4 than I can pick up on triangle 1. I’m not sure how the mismatch happened, but do you have any suggestions on how to fix this without it being too obvious? Thanks!
Hello Erica,
Thank you for reaching out! I have certainly been there. I would recommend passing two stitches instead of one 3 times distributed throughout the rest of the blanket.
I hope this helps and good luck!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Is the Linen Quill soft enough for a newborn?
Hello Daliah,
Thanks for reaching out! While Linen Quill does have a soft drape and halo from the alpaca content, the wool and linen can feel a bit rustic and it takes a few washes to reach peak softness. If you prefer a yarn that is as soft as can be, I would suggest substituting our Posy instead.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
If you use Posy, how many skeins of each color would you need?
Hi Maria,
Great question! You will need two skeins of Posy for each color. Since you will only need a small amount of the second skein, it is possible to knit this blanket with one skein of Posy and one of Pocket Posy for each color instead, but unfortunately, the two yarns are dyed separately so we won’t be able to match dye lots. If you don’t mind alternating skeins to blend in the different dye lot, however, this would be a great option and much more economical!
Best,
Julianna
Hello, I am about to add side B…am I picking up stitches on the NON decrease side? which means the decrease side becomes the outer edge of blanket?
thanks for your help…
Hi Robyn,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! The edge with the decreases, or the long edge of the triangle, becomes the outside edge of the blanket.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello, is this blanket knitted on the round or row by row ? As the round is not working for me…..
Thank you.
Trish
Hi Trish,
Thanks for reaching out! Although we use circular needles for this blanket in order to accommodate the large number of stitches, you will not be knitting in the round, but will be knitting back and forth in rows.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi Purl Soho
I love your patterns! I am on the last triangle of your four point baby blanket but am having difficulty picking up stitches on the cast on edge from the wrong side. I have watched the video but I can’t seem to get a nice seam. Any suggestions. Thanks.
Judy
Hi Judy,
Thank you for the kind words! Because you are picking up from the wrong side it looks a bit odd at first, but I found that after completing another row or two the odd stitches blended neatly into the garter stitch pattern. The seam between triangles 4 and 1 does not look completely identical to the seam between the other triangles, but after blocking the difference should be hardly noticeable!
Best,
Julianna
I love this blanket and am 3/4 done, but I’m stuck on this step:
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise to right-hand needle, pick up 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over.
I’ve tried some workarounds and gotten assistance at my LYS, but no matter what, the front and back seams do not look like the other 3 seams, and on the front side there is often a little jag in color 4.
Any tips on what might be happening/ how to fix/ which tutorials would be helpful are very appreciated!
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you are working everything correctly. Although it looks a bit odd at first because you are picking up from the wrong side, I found that after completing another row or two the odd stitches blended neatly into the garter stitch pattern. The seam between triangles 4 and 1 does not look completely identical to the seam between the other triangles, but after blocking the difference should be hardly noticeable! If you prefer, you can always complete the triangle without joining as you go and use mattress stitch to seam the blanket instead.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m about halfway through triangle 3 and I’ve realized that for triangle 2 I picked up stitches along the cast-on edge of triangle 1 rather than along the vertical edge of triangle 1 (so that all rows of triangle 1 and 2 go same direction and triangle 3 rows are perpendicular). Will this affect joining triangle 1 and triangle 4? Do I need to cut my losses and start over completely?
Hi Kristen,
Thanks for reaching out! Fortunately, the length of the cast on edge is the same as the length of the vertical edge that you should have started Triangle 2 from, so the overall shape of your blanket should still turn out to be square. As long as you don’t mind that the garter ridges won’t go in the same directions as ours, you don’t have to start over!
Best,
Julianna
I would like to make this to measure around 40 to 42 inches. Can I just use the gauge to increase(decrease) the size?
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out! Because you cast on along the diagonal line of the blanket and not the outside edge, you do have to do a little math to change the size of the blanket. For a 40 inch wide blanket, your cast on edge will need to be about 28-29 inches, which should help you determine how many to cast on based on your gauge!
Best,
Julianna
Hi Julianna
I love this pattern and have knitted 3 blankets in Linen Quill. I would love to knit it in Cashmere Merino and am hoping you may be able to tell me how many skeins I would need and how many stitches I should cast on ?
Thank you for the wonderful website and gorgeous products!
Hi Robyn,
Thanks for reaching out, and how wonderful to hear that you are enjoying our pattern so much! If you don’t mind your blanket coming out a just bit larger than the original, you could easily follow the pattern as written in Cashmere Merino Bloom using a US 5 needle. You will need two skeins of each color!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I want to do the same, but ideally use all of both skins of yarn and make it bigger. How many stitches would I cast on?
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! This method would use almost the full 2 skeins of Cashmere Merino Bloom leaving approximately 76 yards left over. I would suggest casting on only a few more stitches to insure that you don’t run out of yarn, either 164 or 166 stitches!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
I just realized the smallest needles I have are US 4 (not US3). Can I get away with knitting the linen quill with this size?
Thanks!
Samantha
Hi Samantha,
Thanks for reaching out with this question! Everyone knits a little differently, some looser, some tighter- we recommend knitting a gauge swatch to see if the US 4 will work for you. If your swatch comes out to 26 stitches = 4 inches in garter stitch then you’re ready to start your project! If you end up with fewer than 26 stitches per 4 inches, you’ll want to try a size US 3.
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Lovely, lovely. My cousin is having their first baby in a few months – the perfect excuse to finally knit this beauty!
I’d love to substitute seed stitch… any input on how this may change the pattern?
Thanks in advance! And thank you for all the incredible content and products y’all provide.
With joy,
Amanda
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for reaching out, and what a wonderful occasion to knit a blanket! Unfortunately this pattern cannot be worked in seed stitch. The row to stitch gauge ratio is very important in making sure the blanket turns out to be the proper square shape, and seed stitch has a very different row gauge compared to garter stitch. I’m so sorry about that!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there,
Would you please help me clarify which is right and wrong side?
When picking up for triangle 2, the cast on end will be on the outside edge of the blanket right?
And will I be picking up from the centre point or from the outside edge and moving toward the centre?
Thank you very much, Jo
Hi Jo,
Thanks for writing in! I also am working on this blanket at the moment and am happy to help you with the orientation of the triangles! You’ll first want to make sure the right side of your triangle is facing up with your cast-on edge at the bottom, smooth garter-bump edge on the right (making a 90 degree angle to your cast-on), and your decreases diagonally on the left. As the longest edge, your decrease edge will be one of the outer sides of the blanket. The diagram in the pattern above might also be helpful in orienting properly.
When you’re ready to pick up for triangle two, turn your triangle 90 degrees so that your garter-bump edge is now horizontal. You will be picking up your stitches along this garter edge- our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial can show you how! Note that you will always pick up stitches in the same direction as you knit, from right to left.
I hope this was helpful!
Gaby
do you happen to have any photos/videos of you doing this? Or the back of the blanket?
Hi Tali,
I’m afraid we don’t have any videos of this particular section of the pattern, but if you reach out to us at [email protected] we’d be more than happy to assist you further!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi there,
I have had such fun knitting this blanket for my best friend’s baby here in South Africa.
I have been able to follow the pattern right up until the 4th triangle. I just cannot figure out how to do the joining with the first triangle. I tried to Google the stitches but no luck. Is there any way I could get a more detailed explanation or a short video to show me how?
It would be so so appreciated!
Thanks!
Kate
Hi Kate,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m so happy to hear you’ve been enjoying knitting this project! You are not alone in finding this part of the pattern tricky. Some people find it easier to pick up their stitches using a small crochet hook; once the picked up stitch is on your needle, pass the previous slipped stitch over it. The seam between triangles 4 and 1 will not look completely identical to the other seams, but blocking should make it even less noticeable! If you prefer, you can always knit the triangle exactly as you knit the others (without joining as you go) and use mattress stitch to seam Triangles 4 and 1 instead.
I hope this helps!
Gaby
I am having the same issue. Did you ever find a video?
Hi Allison,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have a video tutorial at this time but thank you for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
All the best,
Gianna
Can you please tell me what the actual yardage needed foe each triangle?
Hi Margy,
Thank you for writing in! This pattern requires approximately 360 yards, or 1 skein of Linen Quill, per color to complete the Crib size. The larger Throw size will require about 773 yards, or 2 skeins, per color. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Hi! I just finished triangle 1 and picked up along the vertical edge of it with my second color. I am supposed to have 156 stitches as per the instructions, however I ended up with 159. I was very careful with Triangle 1 with the correct # of cast on stitches. Any suggestions or ideas for me on how I can correct for my increased # of stitches? Thanks so much!!
Hi Purvi,
Thank you for writing in! Not to worry, I have found myself in a similar predicament when knitting this blanket. I recommend keeping your 159 picked up stitches and working a k3tog instead of a k2tog for your first three decrease rows- this will eliminate those pesky extra stitches and blend in with the pattern perfectly. If at the end you find that your edge pulls in a bit more at that corner a good blocking should do the trick!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
I have already knit this beauty in Super Soft Merino. I would like to knit it in a worsted weight superwash merino with a stated gauge of 16-18/ 4 inches. The 26/4 inches gauge of Linen Quill is just too small and, although the Popsicle Bundle in Super Soft Merino turned out beautifully, I feel it is just a little too heavy for upcoming baby gift. I have attempted to just change number of cast on stitches according to the gauge, but am concerned that it might not work as cast on edge is not outside edge of blanket. Can you help with this? thank you.
Judy
Hi Judy,
Thanks for writing in! The math for changing the gauge of this blanket can be a little tricky! For the outside edge of the triangle to measure 36 inches, the cast on edge must measure 25.5 inches. Once you knit your gauge swatch, you can multiply your stitches per inch by 25.5 to determine how many stitches to cast on!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I was thinking of making this with Anzula Cricket. Do you think one skein of each color would be enough to make a crib/baby blanket. It doesn’t HAVE to be exactly 36 inches. It’s hard to guess how something’s going to knit up if I can’t fondle it. I’d definitely play around with gauge swatches til I got something workable. I would really appreciate any suggestions you might have for needle size and the amount on yarn I might need. Thanks!
Hi Shara,
Thanks for writing in! This blanket would be just beautiful in Anzula Cricket! Unfortunately, it’s really hard to say exactly how much yarn you will need when changing the gauge like this, but I think you will probably need two skeins of each color. Although Cricket is a heavier weight than Linen Quill and you will be using a bigger needle, it’s not by much – we used a US 3 for our blanket, while Cricket calls for US 5 needle, and at the recommended gauge of 5 stitches per inch, you will need to cast on 120 stitches instead of 156. I would suggest getting two skeins of each color to be on the safe side, but if it turns out you don’t need to second skein, you can return it for store credit!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello. Making this for my new grandson. I’m on triangle 4. When this is done don’t I have to join two edges to complete the blanket? This isn’t mentioned in the directions so I’ve likely done something wrong. At the end of this triangle I’ll have 3 fully joined triangles and 1 joined only on one side.
Thank you.
Hi Judy,
Thanks for reaching out! Under “TRIANGLE 4” are the instructions for how to pick up from triangle 3 and then attach to triangle 1. Row 1 of Triangle 4 is where it explains that you will knit to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise to right-hand needle, pick up 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over. You will then repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
I was wondering what part of the cast on you pick up from triangle 1 when working on triangle 4? Do you pick up the cast on like you do when starting a new color or pick it up and knit that stitch? I hope that made sense. 😊 There isn’t by chance a tutorial on this is there? Thanks!
Hi Kris,
Thanks for reaching out. If I’m interpreting your question correctly, then you should definitely pick up the cast-on edge as if to knit it! I’m sorry to say that we don’t yet have a tutorial for this, but we do have some photos that have been really helpful for others in the past. If you’d like us to send those along, please reach out to us at [email protected]!
All the best,
Lili
I started this (but did not do a gauge), on the first triangle, I am only getting about 2/3 of the way through before I run out of yarn. Is there a way to alter the pattern so I don’t have to buy more yarn? Would I just decrease the number of cast on stitches by 25%?
Thanks!
Hi Gena,
Thanks for reaching out! You can decrease the number of cast on by 25% and you may not need as much yarn but it will effect the overall size of the baby blanket if that is alright with you!
All the best,
Gianna
I’ve just finished triangle 1 and am ready to pick up the stitches for triangle 2. This is a new skill for me, so I’ve watched a handful of videos and read up on it and learned that to pick up stitches on a vertical edge it’s important to skip every fourth stitch to keep the ratio correct. I don’t see any note in the pattern for what the ratio should be. Should I be picking up every single stitch on the vertical edge or is there a specific ratio I should be working?
Hi Deanna,
Thanks for reaching out! Our Picking Up Stitches tutorial is an excellent resource to use and shows exactly how we pick up stitches in different scenarios!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
What a lovely pattern; I chose the linen quill bundle in Winterberry with all the rich red colors. I’m having trouble getting the gauge even though I’ve gone down two needle sizes. Right now I’m getting 22 stitches per 4 inches. How many stitches should I cast on to get the 36″ square blanket?
Thanks for your help.
Hi Angela,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! For that gauge I would recommend casting on 198 stitches to get 36″!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you, Gianna, for the advice.
Will I have enough yardage from one skein to cast on 198 stitches and complete a triangle section of the Four Points Baby Blanket?
Angela
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in again, I am glad I could help! Yes, you should have plenty of yarn in each skein to complete each triangle!
All the best,
Gianna
Terrific. Thanks again.
Thanks so much for this beautiful pattern! I’m a beginning-ish knitter, and using the US 3 needles can’t quite get my gauge to 26 stitches / 4 in. I’m wondering if that’s OK (I’m not too concerned about the final size of the blanket being not exactly 36″ per side), or if that will result in the cast on edge and the pick up edge being different lengths. That is, using a different gauge, will I still create an isosceles triangle, and be able to join the four triangles into a square blanket? Thanks for your help!
Hi Lissie,
Thanks for reaching out! What gauge are you getting? If it is just slightly off you should be fine to follow the pattern and it may just come out slightly bigger or smaller length wise. You can always easily adjust your gauge by going up or down in needle size, our All About Gauge tutorial is an excellent resource to use!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Beginning to knit the first triangle and find it’s decreasing on one side but not the other. Is that correct?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct you are only decreasing on one side of the triangle!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi!
So I accidentally knit triangle 4 how I had knit the others. Now I’m looking at my working wondering how to join! ( nervously laughing)
Do I (a) tink and start triangle 4 over or (b) follow a recommended stitch that you may know of to sew the pieces together?
Thanks in advance. Such a beautiful pattern!
Hi Jillian,
Thanks for reaching out! No worries, you can easily fix this without taking the work out! I would recommend checking out or Mattress Stitch tutorial and Seaming Garter Stitch tutorial!
Please feel free to reach out with more questions you may have, I hope this helps!
Gianna
Thanks Gianna.
I’m having a problem finding the bars however, assuming since the mattress stitch tutorial is for stockinette. Any more suggestions or how do I know what sts im picking up ? Thanks in advance !
Never mind 🙂 Just saw the garter stitch tutorial. However I’m unsure which sts to pick up on triangle one since both are matched up in same direction
I’m still having problems knowing which sts to pick up from triangle 4 and 1 becuase of the orientation. Is there any way to explain or pin point which sts so that it’s seamless? So sorry for all the confusion.
Hi Jillian,
Thanks for writing in again! After reassessing the situation, if you are sewing the blanket together you are not actually picking up stitches but rather just sewing them together!
I hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi there. So with my frustration with trying to sew and have it look neat many times I tinked the triangle and am now working the pattern from directions. (Triangle 4 of course) However, where do I know to pick up a stitch from triangle one? I know there are tutorials picking up in garter but non on the horizontal side/ wrong side. I’m just so confused
Hi Jillian,
Thanks for writing in again! You should be picking up the stitches along Triangle 1 the same way you picked up stitches along all the other triangles. You want all the picked up stitches to be uniform, so whichever method you have been using to pick up stitches for the rest of the blanket is how you should be picking them up for the final stretch as well!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Jillian,
Thanks for writing in again! I recommend checking out our tutorial for Picking Up Stitches, it shows you different techniques for how to pick up along different edges and different stitches!
I hope this helps,
Gianna
Hello and thank you for the beautiful pattern! I’m also having issues with joining the 4th triangle to the cast on edge, can you please clarify something for me? When the pattern says “pick up 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1”, do you A) use the yarn from triangle 4 (coming from the slipped stitch) to create a stitch through the cast on edge, or B.) make a loop out of the cast on edge yarn and use that as the stitch that is passed over? I was wondering if that’s the issue after watching a tutorial video that said “picking up stitches” is slightly different from “picking up and knitting”. Thank you!
Hi Kris,
Thanks for reaching out! So you will actually just be picking up a stitch from Triangle 1 like you did with the other edges but instead of knitting it you are slipping it over the knit stitch from triangle 4 (almost like a bind off!)
I hope this clarifies things!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi! I just finished this darling blanket in Super Soft Merino. However, I can’t find any blocking instructions on the yarn information. Should I spray? Soak? It looks great, so I want to make sure I don’t mess anything up on this last step.
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! For Super Soft Merino I would recommend spraying or steaming the blanket! You can find out more about these techniques in our Blocking Tutorial!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi. I am 3/4 finished with this baby blanket in the super soft Marino. I did something wrong. I find some of your patterns very confusing. It started on the wrong side-so every time I added a new color I started on the ‘wrong side’. Now when I’m trying to finish the blanket with the 4th quarter I find myself in an opposite situation than the directions. I picked up the 60 stitches no problem. But the part where I attaché it to the side of the second triangle I can’t seem to make it look right. I[‘m not going to rip out an entire quarter of this blanket. Can you help me to adjust the pattern to join the 4th pick up edge?
Hi Jan,
Thanks for reaching out! If you would like, please send us some photos of your work to our email [email protected] and we can troubleshoot what may be the problem further from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi! I’m starting this pattern in the larger yarn size (Super Soft Merino), and I don’t understand how Triangle 4 gets attached to Triangle 1. Can you point me to what I might be missing? Thank you!
Hi Heather,
Thanks for reaching out! You can find the instructions for connecting Triangle 1 with Triangle 4 under the TRIANGLE 4 section of the pattern! Basically, you will be connection the 2 while you make Triangle 4 by working Row 1: Knit to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise to right-hand needle, pick up 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over.
I hope this clears things up but please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Ha! I think I get it now! I’m picking up one stitch at the end of every row, not the whole cast-on edge all at once. <3
Hello, I am a few rows from finishing but not with the hoped results. I cast 238 stitches as in the larger pattern and ended up using 2 skeins for one triangle. Because it was so heavy, I decided not to pick up 238 stitches but cast them instead. I now have two separate triangles that I will sew together with no hope whatsoever of a square made of 4 different colored triangles. I’m an experienced knitter and must have completely misunderstood the pattern even though it seems pretty simple. Should I have stayed with the smaller pattern then?
Hi Carolyne,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so sorry to hear that you have had a hard time with this blanket! For the Throw Size of this blanket you do need 2 skeins to complete each triangle and even though it may seem like a lot, picking up the stitches along the edge of the triangle makes things a lot easier over all. I think it is definitely still possible for you to finish the blanket as is and complete all 4 triangle, but in the future I would recommend sticking with the pick up method so that your blanket is consistent all the way through!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello,
I’m ready to start. What cast on do you recommend? I read through the comments and am surprised no one asked. Secondly, I want a smooth edge finish on the edges – will the decrease stitches make a nice edge and not curl? Or is there a stitch that I should include? Also, would you recommend an edging around the blanket? I really don’t want it curling up.
Thank you,
nicol, stamford, CT
Hi Nicol,
Thanks for reaching out! I recommend using a basic Long Tail Cast On for this blanket! Due to the nature of the garter stitch and the decrease edge you wont have to worry about curling at all. If you would like to add a boarder or edge stitch you certainly could, but it wont be necessary!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you Gianna.
My daughter told me to do the long tail too. I’ll figure out the length. Re: edging, thanks for that info. I’ll see how it all ends up to make that decision.
There is much helpful info in these comments, I’ll be back for that forth triangle.
Hello! I’ve just picked up the 60 stitches for triangle 4, but now I’m confused. I am now going to be knitting from the center out to the edge – is that correct? Will I be slipping and picking up stitches from triangle 1 starting from the outer edge? Or have I picked up the stitches in the wrong direction? Please help! Thank you!
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for writing in! You should be picking up stitches from the center of the blanket to the edge on the right side, then you will knit across on the wrong side from the edge to the center where you will then slip the last stitch knitwise to right-hand needle, pick up 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi there, 2 questions. I bought the kit for this awhile ago and didn’t remember the original instructions being in garter stitch? But I love the texture of garter and of course it’s faster to knit! who wants to purl!
how would this be with good wool?
thanks,
S Kaplan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, this pattern has always been knit in garter stitch! It is such a fun texture and of course so easy! Good Wool would be a great Four Points blanket! It is a heavier weight than Linen Quill so it would take a bit of re-working the pattern, but since it is so straight forward that should be fairly easy! I would recommend working a gauge swatch with an appropriate needle size and then you could calculate how many stitches to cast on from there!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this blanket and the colorway choices available. I’ve chosen Winterberry.
To get gauge, I had to cast on 174 stitches on a 3 mm (US #2) needle. I’ve completed my first triangle and have picked up stitches along the right angle side to the cast-on edge. There are only 156 stitches to pick up. Shouldn’t I have 174 stitches to pick up? Thanks for your advice.
Hi Angela,
Thanks for reaching out! That is correct, if you cast on 174 stitches and followed the pattern decreasing one stitch on the one side until you have one stitch left (for 174 stitches this should be 174 rows) you should then have 174 stitches to pick up along the edge! It is possible that you may have missed a few stitches when picking them up, I would recommend checking out our Picking Up Stitches tutorial to make sure you are picking them up in the right spot!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Just wondering if one or more of the triangles could be worked up in Sweetgrass..
Hi Paige,
Thanks for reaching out! Sweetgrass and Linen Quill knit up to a very similar gauge so you could certainly use that for sections of this blanket!
If you do, please let us know how this turns out!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I cannot for the life of me understand the PSSO part of triangle 4. I’ve watched videos but no one is dealing with picking up a stitch. So i’m going to try to explain from what i’m seeing as a pretty novice knitter…
1) I’m knitting to the last stitch on triangle 4, but not knitting it and instead slipping it to the right.
2) am I then just placing the stitch from triangle 1 onto the right needle and slipping the stitch form 4 over and turning my work?
OR
3) am I knitting the stitch from triangle 1 and then slipping the stitch from 4 over and then turning my work…?
Very confused. Please let me know if you can help. Baby is ready to come out but mom has not finished the blanket HAH!
Hi Heather,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help clear this up! So for Triangle 4, you will be knitting to the last stitch, but not knitting it, then you will slip that stitch knitwise to your right-hand needle, from there you will be picking up 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, placing it on your needle, you will then pass the slipped stitch (that was the last stitch of your row) over the stitch you picked up from Triangle 1! After you have passed the stitch over you will then turn your work!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi! I finished the 3 triangles and am stuck on the part where you pick up a stitch from triangle 1 and pass a stitch from triangle 4 over it. After passing the stitch over the picked up stitch and turning your work to knit back again, what do I do with the picked up stitch? When I turn my work over to knit, there is the picked up stitch from triangle 1 and then stitch number 2 on my needle has my working yarn coming from it. I am so confused on what to do next! Help!
Hi Tami,
Thanks for writing in! I think the issue is that you are not knitting the stitch when you pick it up, you are only picking up a stitch. You should be knitting to the last stitch, then you will slip the last stitch knitwise to the right-hand needle, pick up 1 stitch (by knitting in and creating the stitch) from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1. Once you have the stitch picked up you will then pass the slipped stitch over sealing the connection. When you turn the your work over, the yarn will be coming from the stitch you picked up! Please check out our Picking Up Stitches tutorial to see exactly how we pick up the stitches!
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
This makes more sense than what’s written in the pattern currently – I too was missing the making of the stitch, and this explanation really helped.
In the end I have ended up actually doing the join at the beginning of the RS row instead of the end of the WS row, but picking up out of triangle one and k2tog. So far it’s giving me a neater join.
A video of the correct way to do it would be really helpful.
It’s such a lovely pattern!
Hi Jody,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that my explanation helped you! Thank you for expressing your interest in a tutorial, I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Could you recommend a machine washable yarn for this blanket? Thank you!
Hi Sofia,
Thanks for reaching out! For a machine washable yarn, I would recommend using our lovely Santolina or Buttercup Cotton for this blanket! Both of these are fingering weight yarns so they should work perfectly with the pattern, but I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent!
I hope this helps and please let us know which yarn you end up going with!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Could you tell me What stich I should use to put the Last triangle with The first one. (Last sewing)
Thank’s
Marie
Hi Marie,
Thanks for reaching out! For the final triangle, you will start with the first stitch at the center of the blanket and work outwards towards the edge!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I usually slip the first knit stitch in a row when working in garter. Would you recommend doing this for this pattern, on either the beginning of the non decrease side or in the decrease side?
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out! Slipping the first stitch is not necessary for this pattern and I would actually not recommend it. You wouldn’t want to do it on the decrease side since you knit to the last 2 stitches, then k2tog. If one of these k2tog stitches was a slip stitch, when you knit it together with a normal stitch it would look pretty funky. On the other hand, you also would not want to slip a stitch on the side where you don’t decrease since this is where you will be picking up stitches to connect the triangles together!
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
That’s very helpful. Thanks Gianna!
Hello
I am a beginner and I would love to do this blanket.
I don’t understand almost anything. When finishing the first triangle do I cast off the stiches and then cast on stitches of the same triangle (what side?)
And when finishing how do you attach the 3rd and 4th triangle?
Hi Sigridur,
Thanks for reaching out! For this blanket, you will start by casting on and then work the pattern as written, working rows 1 and 2, decreasing on one side (at the end of every right-side row 2) until you have decreased to 1 stitch remaining, from there you will cut the yarn and pull the tail through the remaining stitch. To begin the next triangle you will pick up stitches along the top edge of Triangle 1. and follow the same instructions for rows 1 and 2.
Then to finish the blanket, and connect triangles 3 and 4 you will work the rows as written: Knit to last stitch, slip last stitch knitwise to right needle, pick up 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over. This will connect the two triangles together!
I hope this clears things up, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hi Jillian,
I just started knitting this blanket and the pattern is not making a triangle. I have two straight edges and one decreasing side. Did I make a mistake somewhere?
Help!
Nicol
Hi Nicol,
Thanks for reaching out! This blanket is built up of right triangles, so for the first triangle you should have two straight edges and one slanted edge (the decrease side!) If you would like, you can send a photo of your triangle to our customer service team at [email protected] and they can confirm if your work looks accurate!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I see that you’ve shown how to do versions of this blanket in Linen Quill, Super Soft Merino, and Campo. I’m wondering about knitting it in Linen Quill Worsted instead? I know the gauge would be different–has anyone figured out the math for this?
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! Linen Quill Worsted is actually quite similar in weight to Campo, so you should be able to work that version of the pattern as written without needing to make any adjustments. I would, however, recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there!
I am just into the 4th triangle (again!)….I spent several days trying to get the join. I reread ALL the comments here and most on Ravelry and came to the conclusion that I was not the only one experiencing difficulty. I am an accomplished knitter and fairly confident I was following instructions as written. I even watched suggested videos. I finally decided I was just better off to knit #4 as the others and mattress stitch the last seam. I have one suggestion…Perhaps it would be helpful to supply a video of someone actually doing the joining stitch as written, followed by an up close picture of the seam, both front and back sides. I have enjoyed the knit…perfect, easy travel project and will be loved by an October baby.
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you finished this blanket! That is an excellent idea, thank you for expressing your interest in a tutorial I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
How do you connect triangles 1 and 4. I don’t see it specified really. Just sew it? Please assist! Thanks!
Hi Liz,
Thanks for reaching out! Under “TRIANGLE 4” you can find the instructions for how to pick up from triangle 3 and then attach it to triangle 1. Row 1 of Triangle 4 is where it explains that you will knit to the last stitch, slip the last stitch knitwise to the right-hand needle, pick up 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, pass slipped stitch over. You will then repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 1 stitch remains! This will seam the two triangles together as you finish making the 4th triangle!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Hi there!
I just ordered 4 pack and am SO excited.
I am a relatively new knitter and would love to make this one though.
I am confused as to why the instructions say 156 but also (238). How many stitches do I cast on at first?
Also, would we bind off each time we are done with 1 triangle/ color?
PS- is there a full tutorial video on this?
Hi Tali,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a great blanket for a newer knitter! We don’t have a tutorial specifically for this pattern but we do have many tutorials for the techniques used, you can find all our tutorials here: Knitting Tutorials
As for the two cast-on numbers, that is because this blanket comes in two size options, the Crib Size and Throw Size. If you have the 4 pack with 1 skein of each color that is enough for the Crib Size which is the first cast on amount for 156 stitches. If you would like to make the Throw Size you will need an additional skein of each color (2 skeins of each) and you will cast on the larger number in the parentheses (238 stitches.)
Lastly, you work each triangle by decreasing on one side until you have one stitch remaining. Once you decrease to the final stitch you will pull the yarn through binding off that stitch. From there you will pick up stitches along the side, as instructed, to continue on to the next triangle. You will follow this same process for triangles 2 and 3 but then will change a bit for triangle 4. For Triangle 4 you will pick up stitches along the side as usual, but then you will build the triangle by decreasing on one side as you did for the others, but this time you will bind triangle 4 to triangle 1 by connecting the two triangles together each row. You will do this by Knitting to the last stitch, then slip the last stitch knitwise to your right-hand needle, you will then pick up 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, then pass the slipped stitch (that you just moved to your right-hand needle) over the stitch you picked up from triangle 1.
If you have any questions or problems going forward you can reach out here or email our customer service team directly at [email protected] for any assistance!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
I just completed knitting the Four Points blanket using Campo. I share everyone’s frustration about picking up the stitch to join the fourth and first triangles. To reassure fellow knitters, when the blanket is done, the joining “seam” does look different but now that my blanket is finished, it blends in adequately. I did find it helpful to pull very tightly on the working yarn when approaching the end of the pick-up row and for the first stitches after turning the work. If not, the stitch passed over is so loose that it does stand out too much. (Hope what I am saying is clear…). My question is about blocking. My finished blanket measures 36 inches and feels like it will stretch to get bigger. For me, the bigger to better so if I want to block it, what method do you recommend? Thank you, Dana
Hi Dana,
Thank you for that feedback, as well as your helpful tip about using a tighter tension when joining that final triangle! I’m sure that will be helpful for other knitters working on this pattern. Another trick I’ve found useful is using a smaller needle size when working the join, to help avoid that loose stitch you mentioned.
In terms of blocking, I’d suggest wet-blocking your finished blanket. If you’re looking to get the largest finished dimensions possible, wet-blocking will allow you to more aggressively pin out your blanket as it blocks. Just soak your finished blanket in cool water for about 15-20 minutes, then gently squeeze out the excess water, then lay your blanket out on some clean towels or blocking mats (if you have them) and pin the blanket out to the finished dimensions you desire! If you have blocking wires, you could even use those to get really clean, straight edges! You can also check out our tutorial on blocking techniques here.
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hello! Beginning knitter who hasn’t worked on circular needles before. I’ve just done my cast on, but am not sure how to know what is the wrong side to begin my first row—all the tutorials I’ve looked at have a few rows knitted to tell the “wrong side” and I’m not sure how to flip circular needles?
Hi Meredith,
Thanks for reaching out! There are actually easy ways to identify the right from the wrong side just on the cast on without needing any rows worked, based on the cast on method you are using! I recommend using a basic Long Tail Cast On, this is the easiest method for beginners, it is super simple and gives you a clear right and wrong side. The “right” side of the cast on will have a smooth diagonally sloped edge, while the “wrong” side of the cast on will have a bumpy edge resembling a purl stitch!
As for working with circular needles, you will work the same way you do with straight needles, the only difference is that they are joined together! So once you cast on, you will simply flip the needles in your hands so that you cast on stitches are oriented in your left hand and your empty needle or working needle is in your right hand. You will continue this process the whole time, starting off each new row with the needle with the stitches in your left hand and the working needle in your right!
I hope this helps and clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you, Gianna! Does this mean that if I switch the needle with stitches to my left hand every time, I’ll automatically be switching back and forth between right side and wrong side every row?
Hi Meredith,
Thanks for your response! Yes, that is correct, when you bring the needle with stitches back to your left hand it will set you up to either work the right or wrong side, depending on whichever was worked the previous row! Another great tip to keep organized is to attach a removable stitch marker (like a safety pin) to the fabric on the right side, this way you will always know which side is which! I would recommend a marker like these: Bulb Pins
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello!
Would the Tussock yarn work for this pattern? Looking for something extra soft and snuggly as a gift (or is that yarn not ideal for a baby blanket)?? Thanks for your help!
Hi Karla,
Thanks for reaching out! I wouldn’t recommend Tussock for a baby blanket, it is much better for accessories or to hold doubled with another yarn!
If you are looking for an extra soft yarn, I would recommend using our lovely Posy! It is a blend of 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon which makes it extra durable, machine washable, and still perfectly snuggly (perfect for a baby!)
Alternatively, I would also recommend our Line Weight! It is 100% merino wool and it is a singly ply yarn making it incredibly soft!
Either would be lovely for this pattern, but I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any questions!
Gianna
Hi! I just picked up stitches for the second triangle. I followed the tutorial that is linked in the pattern but just wanted to make sure that I did it correctly. I have a bit of a bump on the wrong side where the two colors joined. I’ve looked through the photos to see if this is normal, but there aren’t any that show the wrong side very well.
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out. There should be a little ridge on the wrong side where you pick up the stitches, so it sounds like you’re doing everything correctly! If you’re still worried, feel free to send photos of your work to [email protected], and we’d be happy to take a look and help out further.
All the best,
Lili
I’ve watched the video and have picked up stitches along a garter edge many times before, but I still don’t understand how this works. There aren’t enough spaces between the garter bumps to pick up 156 stitches. Can you please elaborate?
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out. Can you let me know how many spaces between the garter ridges you’re ending up with? If you cast on 156 stitches, then you will end up with 312 rows by the end of each triangle. Since each garter ridge equates to two rows, there should be 156 spaces in between them for you to pick up stitches from. Are you getting a number close to this, or is it further off?
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for this lovely pattern. I’m ready to add the fourth color/triangle. Do I pick up and knit starting in the center of the blanket and moving outward, or do I pick up and knit starting at the end point and moving inward? Thanks for your advice.
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in! You will want to pick up the stitches, working on the right side, from the center working out to the edge, then for row 1, you will knit on the wrong side from the edge towards the center. Once you reach the last stitch (at the center) you will slip the last stitch knitwise to the right needle, pick up and knit 1 stitch from the adjacent cast-on edge of Triangle 1, and then pass the slipped stitch over.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
can this pattern be made larger than 36×36? if so how could i be able to make it a little bigger? And is this 36x36cm and 56×56 in?
Hi Jacquelynn,
Thanks for writing in! We actually offer this pattern in two sizes, a Crib size that comes out to 36 x 36 inches and a Throw size that comes out to 52 x 52 inches. If you want to make a throw size, you will want to follow the pattern for the instructions listed within the parenthesis. For example, you begin by: With Color A, cast on 156 (238) stitches, for the crib size you will cast on 156 and for the throw size you will cast on 238.
I hope this helps clear things up!
Gianna
I love this blanket! I’ve looked over this patterns and see you have instructions for using both fingering weight and worsted weight yarns. Could I make the blanket with DK weight yarn? If yes, what adjustments would I need to make? I’d like to make a baby blanket. Thank you for the amazing patterns and any suggestions.
Hi Jodi,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely make this blanket in a DK weight yarn! All you’ll need to do is change the number of stitches you cast on. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the length of the cast-on edge (25.5 inches) and cast on the nearest whole number. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
Just trying to get my head around joining the 4th triangle to the first. When I get to the 4th triangle (ending row 1), should I be picking up/ knitting every other cast-on stitch from the edge of triangle 1? I am concerned that If I pick up every cast-on stitch that something will be off.
Hi Lisa!
Thank you for commenting! You will be picking up and knitting every cast-on stitch from Triangle 1 for this section, so that there are no holes in this seam between Triangle 1 and Triangle 4. Assuming your gauge is correct, you will have the right amount of cast-on stitches to pick up throughout Triangle 4. If you would like more help with this, please feel free to reach out to us at [email protected]!
All the best,
Margaret
I made the Four Points blanket in Campo and love it. Now I have Linen Quill to make another one for a gift. This yarn is finer than I realized. Clearly, I did not pay attention to how light-weight the blanket it makes would be. Having 2 skeins of each color, I made a swatch holding two strands together and got 18 stitches = 4 inches. At that gauge, I think the blanket size will be more what I want. If I cast on the 156 sts called for in the pattern, will there be enough yarn to complete each triangle? Thank you,
Dana
Hi Dana,
Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately, you won’t have enough yarn to make a blanket with a cast-on of 156 stitches though! You will need to cast on no more than 114 stitches to ensure that you have enough yarn for each triangle while holding the yarn double at that gauge. This is because 114 stitches (at 18 stitches in 4 inches) will create a blanket with the same dimensions as our design, and therefore, one that takes the same amount of yarn. I hope this helps you plan your project!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, Lili. I will make the blanket as you suggest and hope someone worhty of the beautiful result will have a boy baby for which these colors will work.
I just ordered the linen quill bundle for this blanket and after reading the above from Dana and your reply I am sorry I ordered it. I did not realize that the linen quill was going to be so light weight. Since it is so fine and can be done holding two strands will I have enough yarn with only 1 skien of each color and if so should I use a larger size needle? Thank you in advance for answering.
Hi Camille,
I’m sorry to hear that you’re disappointed in Linen Quill! I wanted to let you know that we also designed this blanket in a much thicker yarn, Campo, and you can take a look at that project right here. If you’d like to exchange the yarn you have for Campo instead, you can absolutely do so! It sounds like Campo is much more what you’re looking for in a yarn for this project. If this option interests you, you can view our full return and exchange policy at this link.
If you’d like to try working with the Linen Quill you have though, I’d be happy to give you suggestions for modifying the blanket for 2 strands! In order to have enough yarn to complete the blanket, with only one skein of each color, I’d recommend a cast-on distance of about 19 inches (for a blanket that’s 26.9 inches square). If you achieve the same gauge as Dana (18 stitches in 4 inches), then you can cast on either 85 stitches.
However, you may want to make your own gauge swatch to double check! I would recommend using a larger needle size (we’ve used a size US 7 needle with 2 strands of Linen Quill before, but this choice is largely up to you, depending on how dense you want the knit fabric to be!) Once you’ve knit the swatch and you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the length of the cast-on edge (19 inches) and cast on the nearest whole number. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili for your quick response. Making it 26.9 inches square will make it a good baby blanket instead of crib. Luckily I like pulling two strands. I’ve done before with both thin and thick yarn.
Just one more question. I made my swatch holding 2 strands of the linen quill using a size 7 needle. I get 5 stitches to an inch. If the cast on edge is 19 inches will I be casting on 95 stitches (5×19=95) or do I go up to an even number of 96? PS I love the look and feel of the 2 strands on linen quill. I think this baby blanket will be beautiful. Thank you for all of your help.
You’re very welcome, Camille! For this pattern, you do not need to cast on an even number. 95 stitches will work great!
All the best,
Lili
Hello. In order to make the throw size, how many skeins of Linen Quill do I need? I see on the bundle purchase page, that it makes a 36″x36″ baby blanket. But the pattern on this page has throw size in parentheses. Sorry, but I can’t figure out on the purchase page how to buy enough for a throw.
Is it by any chance the same amount, i.e. if I make the baby blanket with the bundle I’ll have leftover yarn, but if I make the throw it will be enough to buy just the four skeins listed? Thank you!
Hello!
Thanks for reaching out! To make the throw size you will need an additional skein for each of Colors A–D, or approximately 811 yards required total per color. Our bundles for the Four Points Baby Blanket are only big enough for the crib size, but if you’d like, ordering 2 kits is enough yarn to knit the larger size!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Got it. Thanks so much for the info!
Hi,
Is there a video somewhere showing how to pick up the edges and which edge to pick up? I’m just finishing the triangle shawl, is it anything like that? By the way I found those instructions on Youtube on a non- english speaking site. It would really help if you could put up a video
thanks
Hello!
Thank you for your question. We have a video tutorial for how to pick up stitches along the edge of a knit fabric that you can find right here! This tutorial demonstrates how to pick up stitches along a horizontal and a vertical edge, which should be helpful for this blanket.
I hope this helps, and please feel free to let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello- I would like to know what the colors are used in the photo of the grey and yellow baby blanket? I have many colors of linen quill left over from my four triangle wraps. Do all the triangles take a full skeins? Thank you! Cindy
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for reaching out with your question! The Gray and Yellow baby blanket featured above is the Four Points Baby Blanket made in Super Soft Merino found here! We used the colors Yellow Yellow, Heirloom White, Oyster Gray, and Oatmeal Gray Helix, which can be found here.
A similar color palette in Linen Quill is Dandelion Yellow, Pale Oats, Stonewall Gray, and Salt + Pepper! This pattern uses up one skein per triangle for the crib size, or if you’d like to knit a throw size, you will need 2 skeins of each color.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hoping for some clarification on pattern’s use of “right” side and “wrong” side. I am using Linen Quill with size 3 needles. As a long-time knitter I’ve always assumed the right side was the side you begin knitting immediately after the cast-on. With a long-tail cast-on the cast-on edge looks to me almost like little sideways v’s, while the other side has no distinctively different-looking edge, sort of like little purl bumps from the start. The pattern refers to the row immediately following cast-on as the “wrong” side and the next row with the decrease at the end as the “right” side. When I start triangle 2 I find the little ridge from picking up stitches to be on what the pattern seems to be calling the “right” side. I’ve read everything I could find and enlarged the pics to try to determine the correct approach but I’m still not sure! Please help!! Many thanks.
Hi Jackie,
Thanks for reaching out, and that’s a great question! The reason that the first row in this pattern is a wrong side row is because we used a long tail cast-on. The long tail cast-on creates, in itself, a right side row, so the next thing you knit (the first actual row) must be a wrong side row.
And you’ve already made some great observations about the quality of the long tail cast-on. The “sideways v’s” are basically knit stitches, and there are purl bumps on the other side. When you begin your first row after the cast-on, you will have these purl bumps facing you, meaning that you’re on the wrong side of the fabric.
If you’re finding that the ridge from picking up stitches is on the right side of the pattern, then you were likely holding your work incorrectly when you picked up the stitches! You’ll need to make sure that the right side is facing you (which hopefully is easier to determine now!), and that the cast-on edge is oriented vertically.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I knit up the baby blanket in Campo (blue/green) and noticed the “Plenty” yarn. Would that be a possible option for a super squishy alternative to campo for this pattern? What would the yarn requirements be for that? Thanks! Love the Campo blanket!
Hi Kim,
I love the idea of knitting up this blanket in Plenty! You would actually need the same amount of yarn–2 skeins of each color. Let us know how your blanket turns out!
All the best,
Lili
I would like to make a smaller version of this blanket, maybe 24 by24. How many stitches do I need to cast on?
Thanks so much,
Gail
Hi Gail,
Thanks for reaching out! For a finished edge length of 24 inches, you would need to cast on 110 stitches. (Because the edge length is actually the hypotenuse of each triangle, the length of the cast-on edge would need to be roughly 17 inches.) Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I am disappointed with the pattern instructions. I cast on 156 stitches and have 43 stitches left with no yarn left to complete to one stitch. I don’t want to unravel it a second time : / , so how many stitches do I cast on? 110? 114?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that you came up short on your first triangle! We often find that running out of yarn is caused by a slightly inaccurate gauge. Have you double checked yet that your gauge matches the gauge of the pattern? That would be 26 stitches = 4 inches in garter stitch.
Before beginning the triangle again, I’d highly recommend making a gauge swatch. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge! If you would like to learn more about this, we have a handy tutorial called All About Gauge, which you can find right here.
I also wanted to make sure you’re doing the version of this blanket in Linen Quill or the version in Campo. The Linen Quill version has gauge of 26 stitches and a cast-on of 156, since it’s a thinner yarn, while the Campo version has a gauge of 14 stitches and a cast-on of 86 stitches, since it’s a thicker yarn.
I hope this helps you move forward in this project, but please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns!
All the best,
Lili
I am in need of HELP! I am on the fourth panel and connecting to the first. I have 43 stitches on my needle and it looks like I have about 48 cast of stitches to connect panel 4 to panel 1. How do I correct this? Do I not reduce a stitch for a few rows? I’m stumped. I kind of see where I may have made a mistake or two but 5 rows? Do I have to tear this whole panel out? I am sick about this. Plus I just do not like the way the connection looks compared to the other panels. Can you help me?
Hi Camille,
Fortunately, there’s an easy way to correct this! All you have to do is skip a cast-on stitch every few rows. Once you’ve skipped 5 overall, the counts will even out, and you’ll barely be able to tell any stitches were skipped! If you’re unhappy with the way the join is looking though, you could try seaming instead. For that, you’ll need to undo what you have so far. Then, knit the final triangle in the same way as the previous ones (without doing the join), and at the end, use your yarn tail to sew the fourth triangle to the first one. Hope this helps give you some options!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much! I’m going to do the skipping.
Hi,
I’m confused on how to pick up stitches for 2nd triangle. The diagram shows as you are picking up on the edge that we knitted on for triangle one and the cast on edge as horizontal. Can you explain please, thank you!
Hi Katya,
Thanks for writing in! Here’s how to pick up stitches for the second triangle: First, make sure the right side of the first triangle is facing you. Then, rotate the triangle (with the right side still facing) so that the cast-on edge is oriented vertically. This will result in the other short edge of the triangle oriented horizontally–this is the edge you’ll want to pick up your stitches from!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I have the desert marigold color palette. Should I fix the dye prior to knitting together or is the linen quill color fast enough to not require the extra step?
Thanks!
Hi Kimberly,
I don’t anticipate any of the colors in the Desert Marigold palette running, but it never hurts to test beforehand! I’d recommend placing a snippet of each color separate glasses of water for a few hours. If the water remains clear, then you’re good to go without refixing, but if the water is tinted with the color of the yarn, then you should refix the dye for that color. We have a great tutorial on refixing dye for when (or if) you need to do so! You can find it right here.
All the best,
Lili
I’m on my second triangle and the instructions are to pick up and knit. And not just pick up. I started with pick up and knit and didn’t think it looked as good as just picked up. Please explain one vs the other and while the bumpy seam seem flatter if I followed and did pick up and knit ? I don’t mind this version. Thanks.
Hi Susan,
Thank you for writing in. That’s a great question! The pick up and knit portion is simply a design detail that the designer thought worked with their intention of the pattern but if you prefer the method you are using, that totally works too! I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello! I wrote a comment on the version in super soft merino wool but I actually think this pattern will work better for me. I have DK weight yarn and am using a size 6 needle but only have 4 bundles of 160 yards in each color. I did a gauge swatch and it’s looking like I’ll get 26 stiches in 4 inches, but I’m wondering how many to cast on in order to get a baby blanket size? And to not run out of the yarn I have? Any guidance would be much appreciated and my apologies for my lack of understanding as I’m very new to this.
Hi Lizzie,
Thank you for providing that information for us! With the yardage and gauge that you are getting, we recommend knitting the crib-size blanket with a cast on of 156 stitches. This will get you a blanket size of 32″ x 32″ making it great for any little one in your life! In total, you will need about 396 yards of each color. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any more questions and we would be happy to help!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I recently bought a bunch of Picnic Cotton to make the Four Points Blanket. The yarn is finer than I thought, I’m worried I maybe bought the wrong amount for the pattern. I bought 3 skeins of each of the colors (492 yds). This is my first blanket project, thank you in advance for your help!
Hi B,
Thank you for writing in! Three skeins of each of the four colors will work perfectly for this pattern. The yardage for each color is approximately 396 yards so you should be all set. Please let us know if you have any questions along the way and we would be happy to help!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi,
While waiting for my linen quill to arrive for the four points blanket, I’m looking at tutorials. The join as you knit tutorial says it’s used in the Four Points but I don’t see that in the pattern. The pattern says to pick up and knit. What have I missed?
One more question, is Linen Quill hand dyed? Should I check for color fastness?
Many thanks!
Carol
Hi Carol,
Thank you for writing in! Both methods are quite similar with just some slight differences. For this pattern specifically, I’d recommend checking out the Pick up and knit tutorial for the exact methods used in this pattern! I hope this helps clarify but please let us know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thank you Gavriella. That’s helpful.
Is linen quill color fast?
Thanks again! Carol
You are very welcome! Sorry, I missed that question. Linen Quill is indeed colorfast and we have not had any reports of the colors bleeding. If you would like to be absolutely sure, I’d recommend knitting a small swatch with your colors and wet blocking to ensure your yarns do not bleed. I hope this is helpful but please let me know if there is anything else I can answer for you!
Hello, I’m beginning the 4th triangle of the 4 point blanket. I am having trouble interpreting the sequence that attaches the 3rd triangle to the 4th. It says, slip the last stitch to the right needle, pick up and knit 1 stitch from cast on edge and knit, then pssto. It is the “pick up and knit 1” that confuses me. When you pick up the new stitch doesn’t that put all stitches on the right needle? How then do you knit that new stitch before pssto? Perhaps it means to pssto, turn the work then knit?
Thank you for your help! loving the blanket!
Carol
Hi Carol,
Thank you for writing in! That is correct that all the stitches will eventually be on the right needle. At this point, the last step is to bring that 2nd to last stitch over and off your work as if you were binding off to connect the two edges together.
I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Sorry, but just to continue clarifying, why does it say to knit the picked up stitch before you pass over the slipped stitch. Maybe I’m being too literal?
Thanks again
Hi Carol,
You should only pick up and knit the stitch once allowing you to be able to proceed to the next step when you will pass one stitch over the next to connect your triangles. Please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi, I’m starting triangle 4 and was wondering if there are any videos that might help clear up either the steps or how to join triangle 1 and 4
Hi Aliya,
Thank you for writing in! I’m afraid we don’t have a video for this step at the moment but we’d be happy to help further explain! Could you please let us know the issue you are running into in these steps? You can also send a photo of your project to [email protected] so we can have a deeper look. We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Gavriella
In an earlier reply to a comment, you recommended hand blocking this blanket. Can you explain why? As I am making it (in linen quill) for a baby I would like to pre wash it before giving. In this case would you recommend full submersion blocking? Does the yarn wash well?
Hi Julie,
Thanks so much for reaching out about this! Because Linen Quill is made primarily from animal fibers (highland wool and alpaca), it cannot be machine washed or dried. That’s because animal fibers felt and shrink when exposed to warm water, detergent, and agitation. Linen Quill needs to be hand washed gently in cold water and laid flat to dry instead!
All the best,
Lili
can this blanket be made in good wool
Hi Eileen,
You can absolutely make this blanket in Good Wool! All you’ll need to do is change the number of stitches you cast on. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the length of the cast-on edge (25.5 inches) and cast on the nearest whole number. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
I’ve come here from the windy day blanket as it recommends the instructions for Triangle 4 to assist with triangle 4 there. If you’re using similarly light colours of yarn for future tutorials, could I suggest that you try to photograph them on a slightly darker background? It can be hard to pick out all the details for where and how to pick up stitches of pale yarn on a pale background.
Really appreciate all the patterns and tutorials! Many thanks 😊
Hi Claire,
We’re truly sorry for the shortcomings in this tutorial, and have come to realize that many of our older tutorials like this could benefit from updates like you suggested…. We wouldn’t be able to go back and edit this one, but you can always sign up for free 1-On-1 Help with a team member so we can demonstrate any technique you need with a higher contrasting yarn. You can even save a recording of the session for easy referencing later!
I encourage you to try that out if ever interested and will pass along your message directly to our design team to keep in mind for all of our future tutorials. They’ve already been hard at work over the last year making a concerted effort to consider every material that appears on screen. We’ve even gone so far as to make sure we’re using the yarn we already used in specific projects! The goal is to make our content accessible for all knitters, so we truly appreciate you bringing up your thoughts like this. It’s people like you who help us know exactly what we should focus our attention on!
All the best,
Lili