Long Tail Tubular Cast On
You know how a knit 1, purl 1 rib is nice and stretchy except for that taut line along the cast on edge? The Long Tail Tubular Cast On is designed to fix that problem! Once you try this cast on, you will appreciate how magical it is. The technique is surprisingly simple and very similar to the traditional long tail cast on, but it creates a beautiful, elastic edge, perfect for hats, socks, cuffs or anywhere you need a little give. Here’s our Long Tail Tubular Cast On tutorial to show you how we do it!
Click To See Video Transcript
I’m going to show you how to do a long tail tubular cast on. I love this cast on for any sort of one-by-one rib. It has a really great elasticity and it really curves around the edge in a way that integrates beautifully with the fabric. I’m also going to show you how to modify it for a two-by-two rib. So let’s get started.
I’m going to start with a slip knot and a needle. We have our first stitch. Here we go. So I’m gonna orient my hands how you would for a basic long tail cast on. I have my tail in front. I have my working yarn in back. I’m gonna take these two fingers. I’m gonna split them. I’m gonna take these three fingers and grab the yarn below. And I’m gonna just pull back slightly. So I have this kind of slingshot kind of action going.
I’ll show you how to do that one more time. So Divide the two, grab the yarn below with your three other fingers, and then pull back slightly. So as I said, this slip knot here, this is going to act as our first stitch. And now, I’ll show you how to do the cast on, which creates kind of a purl knit, purl knit appearance.
So, first, we’re going to start by taking the right needle under the yarn coming from the index finger, and then under the yarn coming from the thumb and then once again under that index finger yarn. So there’s our first stitch. You can see as this yarn in front of it right here almost looks like a pearl. That’s just what we’re looking for.
So now let’s make a knit stitch. We’re going to start by going the other way first. So take your needle to your thumb and go under the yarn coming from your thumb. Take the finger to the, your needle to the thing, your finger and go under that yarn and then under the thumb yarn again as well.
So here you can see we’ve created another stitch and it looks kind of like a knit stitch. So let’s keep alternating going first to the finger and then to the thumb. So under the index finger yarn, under the thumb yarn and under the index finger yarn again. So this time we’re going to start going the other way under the thumb yarn, under the index finger yarn and under the thumb yarn again.
There we go. Index finger and under thumb, under both of them. So we’re going to go to the thumb, go under the index finger. Go under both of them. Here we go. So we have two, four, 6, 7. We’ll go to 12. You can see this, the last one we did was a knit stitch. So to do a purl stitch, you start by going to the finger, go under, go to the thumb, go under both of them.
Finger, thumb, finger, under both of them.
I’ve lost count again. Here we go. 2, 4, 6, 8, 10. Do two more. Go under the thumb, go under the finger, both of them… finger, go under the thumb yarn, go under both of them. Alright. So now we’ve got 12 stitches here. If you take a look, you can kind of see how every other one looks like it’s a little, has a little purl bump, including the last one.
Now I’m going to turn my needle to work the first of two foundation rows. And when I do that, I’m going to kind of just, hold this tail against the needle, just to keep everything secured. Because the last stitch is going to want to be a little bit loose on you. So just try to secure it by holding down this tail.
So when you turn the needle, you’ll see that the stitches that were purls on this side now look like knit stitches on this side, but the leg is in the wrong place. So across this whole row, we’re going to work into the knit stitches, but through the back loop instead of the front loop. And that’s to get them oriented correctly.
So the first one is a knit stitch. We’re going to knit through the back loop. Now for the purl stitches we come across, we’re going to slip them with the yarn in front. So we’re going to slip this stitch with the yarn in front. I’m going to take my yarn to the back in order to knit this stitch once again through the back loop.
So, slipping the purls with yarn in front and knitting the knit stitches through the back loop. You do this all the way across the row.
Slip with yarn in front, knit through the back loop. Bring your yarn to the front, slip, knit through the back loop. Now we’re going to slip this last one with the yarn in front. So now, that first foundation row, we got all the knit stitches oriented the correct way. So, on this row, you can just knit into the knit stitches as you normally would.
And once again, we’ll slip the purl stitches with the yarn in front. Here we go. This is foundation row two. Knit and slip. So we have completed our two foundation rows. And now, if you take a look, you can see this rib has already started to take shape. We have a, you know, knit stitch and a purl stitch and a knit stitch. What looks kind of like a purl stitch. And if you look on the other side, it looks the same way. It’s a beautiful, what’s going to be a beautiful one-by-one rib.
And it has this really smooth edge along the bottom, and with a lot of elasticity in there, which is really great. So now, if you want to stick with a 1×1, you just continue, you know, as pattern instructs, or connect to work in the round, or you know, however your pattern tells you to go on, but you’re ready to work in any sort of one-by-one rib.
But, if you wanted to change this into a two-by-two rib, you’re going to do one more foundation row. So I’m going to show you how to do that right now. Alright, so here we are. Our first stitch is a knit stitch, so I’m going to just knit that normally. And of course, for a two by two rib, that means I’m going to want to knit the next stitch as well.
So what I’m going to do is I’m going to insert my needle into this knit stitch.
I’m going to knit it as normally, and then when I pull it off, it’s going to shoot this purl stitch off the needle, and I’m going to catch it with my index finger, kind of securing it, and just stick my needle right back through it. I can show you a different way to do that too, if that seems a little scary.
So now I have, oh let me show you, now I have two purl stitches next to each other, so I’m going to purl both of those. See, and our two by two rib is starting to take shape. So now I have a knit stitch, I’m going to knit it, But now I want to knit another knit stitch, but what’s next is a purl stitch. So you can, you can either go ahead and knit that next stitch, or if you want to rearrange the stitches first you can do that.
You can just let them both flop off, get that purl stitch on there first, then get that knit stitch on there, and now they’re arranged for a two by two. So I’m going to knit that one, now we have our two purl stitches next to each other, and I’m going to purl these two. Once again, I have a knit stitch, so it’s great.
Knit this one. I want another knit stitch, but I have a purl stitch in the way. So I’m going to just let those fall off. Put the purl stitch back on that left needle first then put the knit stitch on that needle. And now you’re ready to knit your second one. And then, now we have two purls at the end of our row.
making for a great two-by-two rib here that’s going to take place. So that’s the long tail tubular cast on. It’s very versatile. It’s very elastic. It’s great for ribs. I hope that helps.
LONG TAIL TUBULAR CAST ON: STEP-BY-STEP
Note
If you are an especially tight knitter, try the Long Tail Tubular Cast On using a needle 1 or 2 sizes larger than the needle you will use for the ribbing. Test your tension out on a gauge swatch to see what’s right for you!
SETTING UP
The Long Tail Tubular Cast On begins exactly like a regular Long Tail Cast On: Pull a length of yarn 3 or 4 times the width of what you will knit. Tie a slipknot. Thread the slipknot onto the needle. Holding the needle in your right hand, grasp the yarn and the tail with your left hand, exactly as you would for a Long Tail Cast On.
CASTING ON A PURL STITCH WITH A LONG TAIL TUBULAR CAST ON
Usually, the first cast-on stitch is a purl stitch. Here’s how to work one…
From back to front in a towards-you motion, dip the needle under the yarn coming off your left index finger.
From front to back in an away-from-you motion, grab the yarn coming off your thumb, then pass the needle under the yarn coming off your index finger.
Gently pull to take up the slack. You can tell you’ve cast on a purl stitch because of the small bump below the stitch.
CASTING ON A KNIT STITCH WITH A LONG TAIL TUBULAR CAST ON
Now you will learn to make a knit stitch.
From front to back in an away-from-you motion, grab the yarn coming off your thumb.
From back to front in a towards-you motion, grab the yarn coming off your index finger and pass the needle under the yarn coming off your thumb.
Gently pull to take up the slack. The stitch you just cast on is a knit stitch. You can tell it is a knit stitch because it doesn’t have a bump below it.
CONTINUE CASTING ON WITH THE LONG TAIL TUBULAR CAST ON
Repeat the Long Tail Tubular Cast On steps, making alternating purl and knit stitches, until you have cast on the correct number of stitches. Some patterns might ask you to start with a knit stitch after the slip knot, but most will start with a purl as shown above. And remember, as with any cast on, the slip stitch is the first stitch of your cast-on row.
When you’ve cast on the required number of stitches, twist the tail around the working yarn once or twice and go on to the foundation rows.
FOUNDATION ROWS
Now you will work two foundation rows. Whether you’re making a hat in the round or a flat scarf, these two foundation rows are always worked flat. Find the foundation rows below that apply to your pattern.
AN EVEN NUMBER OF CAST-ON STITCHES, STARTING WITH A PURL STITCH AFTER THE SLIP KNOT
Foundation Row 1: *K1 through the back loop, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to end of row.
Foundation Row 2: *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
AN EVEN NUMBER OF CAST-ON STITCHES, STARTING WITH A KNIT STITCH AFTER THE SLIP KNOT
Foundation Row 1: *Slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), k1 through the back loop, repeat from * to end of row.
Foundation Row 2: *Slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
AN ODD NUMBER OF CAST-ON STITCHES, STARTING WITH A PURL STITCH AFTER THE SLIP KNOT
Foundation Row 1: *Slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), k1 through the back loop, repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1 wyif.
Foundation Row 2: *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
AN ODD NUMBER OF CAST-ON STITCHES, STARTING WITH A KNIT STITCH AFTER THE SLIP KNOT
Foundation Row 1: *K1 through the back loop (tbl), slip 1 (wyif), repeat from * to last stitch, k1 tbl.
Foundation Row 2: *Slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), k1, repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1 wyif.
CONTINUE TO PATTERN
Your Long Tail Tubular Cast On is complete! Some patterns may have you work a third foundation row to set up for 2×2 rib or something more complicated. In most cases, you’ll be ready to continue to the rest of your pattern by following one of the two instructions below.
LONG TAIL TUBULAR CAST ON FOR WORKING IN THE ROUND
Without turning the work, transfer all stitches to the circular needles you will use for the ribbing. With the working needle in your right hand, place a marker on the right needle and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
IF WORKING FLAT
Turn the work and continue to work in regular 1×1 rib.
FINISHING
When you weave in the ends, use the cast-on tail to sew together the two sides of the Long Tail Tubular Cast On edge.
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This looks great, thank you for the clear instructions! Could I use this technique to cast on a 2×2 rib as well (or a variation on that)? I would like to try this on the traveling cable hat. Thanks!
Hi Dianne,
You could certainly use this cast on for 2×2 rib! The only limitation, and you will see why when I explain how to do it, is whatever ribbing you end up working must have an equal number of knit and purl stitches. The traveling cable hat has a slightly irregular ribbing in order to lead seamlessly into the cable pattern, so it does not have an equal number of knit and purl stitches in the ribbing.
Here’s how you would set up to work 2×2 rib: Follow the tutorial, working the foundation rows as directed. While you work the first round of 2×2 ribbing, simply rearrange the order of the stitches on the needle so that you have 2 knits followed by 2 purls and repeat until the end. The following round will be a regular round of 2×2 rib.
Let me know if I can answer any more questions! Thanks for writing in.
– Gina
for the 2×2 ribbing: Can you please explain what you mean by “arranging the order of stitches so that you have 2 knits &2 purls”? Do you actually move a stitch, or just knit 2 purl 2 over the foundation. Or is it something else?
Thanks.
Hi Allison, Thanks for writing in with your question! There is a great tutorial here: http://ysolda.com/tutorial/tubular-cast-on/ Let me know if that answers your question. All my best, Gina
What is the purpose of the foundation rows? Why can one not simply start working with the stitches as cast on?
Hi Barclay –
That’s a great question. The foundation rows, essentially two rows of double knitting, form the “tubular” part of the cast on. Once I did try omitting the foundation rows, and the cast on edge ended up flaring away from the body of the hat, not how I wanted my hat to look! They are essential to making the cast on look correct. Thank you for writing in with your question! – Gina
I had the same question. I have been using this cast on for a while now and I just found out that I need to do the foundation rows.
I usually use smaller needles for the first 3 rows and it always comes out looking great. (I wish I could submit a photo showing it).
Hi Anya,
Thanks for the comment! If omitting the foundation rows yields the same result, then that is fine. I would imagine that your cast on is not as stretchy as one with the foundation rows, but I could be wrong — I’d have to see. Thanks for sharing!
-Adam
Can this cast on also be done in a 2 x 2 rib or 4 x 4?
Hi Ruth,
Unfortunately this cast on does not work for 4×4 rib, but it does work for 2×2 rib!
Another commenter asked a similar question, this is what I told them:
Here’s how you would set up to work 2×2 rib: Follow the Long Tail Cast On tutorial, working the foundation rows as directed. While you work the first round of 2×2 ribbing, simply rearrange the order of the stitches on the needle so that you have 2 knits followed by 2 purls and repeat until the end. The following round will be a regular round of 2×2 rib.
Thank you for your question! – Gina
If I’m doing a k2 p2 ribbing, do I do the cast on in the same pattern, instead of k1 p1?
Hi Judy,
Thank you so much for your question!
Here’s how you would set up to work 2×2 rib: Follow the long tail tubular cast on tutorial, working the foundation rows as directed. While you work the first round of 2×2 ribbing, simply rearrange the order of the stitches on the needle so that you have 2 knits followed by 2 purls and repeat until the end. The following round will be a regular round of 2×2 rib.
I hope that is clear! Let me know if I can help with any other questions. – Gina
Thank-you! This works perfectly for the Boyfriend Hat!
I am a relatively new knitter and am rather confused by this. Are these loops really secured on, or are they just twisted on? The way I am doing it while trying to follow the directions seems just twisted on, doesn’t feel like a regular long tail or basic loop at all (these are the only two cast on methods I know right now). Do you have a link to a good video of this? I am making the boyfriend hat for several of my coworkers for Christmas, and this sounded like it would be an excellent start, but perhaps it is too advanced for me? How would the boyfriend hat work out with just a regular long tail cast on?
Hi Marci-
Unfortunately we don’t have a video of this but the stitches are not just twisted on. Rather, you are kind of knitting them on with your fingers! I would recommend that you Google “long tail cast on video” to find a video to walk you through it.
Thank you for getting in touch!
Molly
New knitter here…after the foundation row, what exactly do you mean by knit one and slip one? I know how to knit, but I’m not sure what slip means. Slip stitch?
Thanks!
Hi Sarah-
It means that you knit one stitch and then you slip one stitch. To slip a stitch you place your right needle into the stitch on the left needle as if you were going to purl the stitch. Then, without wrapping the yarn around to knit or purl, simply slip that stitch from your left needle to your right needle. You are basically passing it from the left needle to the right needle without doing anything to it.
Hope this helps. Please let us know if you need any more help!
Molly
Your projects and yarns are the best! The only thing you are missing is video tutorials. I have a hard time understanding written instructions. Anyway, thanks for the amazing projects!
I agree, I’ve only just come across your site but am already excited to get my needles out, but as a fairly new beginner the only thing putting me off is the lack of video’s. Even though the instructions are clear, I think for things like tutorials I find it much easier to follow a video….any chance of there being any, any time soon? or could you recommend another person who does good video tutorials for the things your describing?
Thanks anyway
Hi Beth,
Thank you so much for writing us! We do offer some video tutorials and are working on adding more in the new year. For this particular technique, there is a tutorial on youtube I will recommend: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrOoX-pBwts
I hope that helps! All my best,
Gina
I hope you can help me. I love the boyfriend hat, but I would actually like to make it for my boyfriend, and, well, he doesn’t have the smallest head. What do I have to do to make the hat that little bit bigger?
Just found your site. Love it!
Thanks.
Hi Michele,
Thanks for writing in with your question! The Boyfriend hat is very stretchy and can fit most any head size, so you shouldn’t need to alter the pattern. Please let me know if I can help with any other questions! -Gina
When you say rearrange the order of the stitches do you mean move the stitches? Won’t that create a twist in your knitting? Maybe I’m misunderstanding. Thank you.
Hi Alex,
Yes! Almost like making a tiny cable, I mean change the position of the stitches on the needle so that the stitches go Knit Knit Purl Purl. A twist in the knitting would only happen if you were to twist the cast on around the needle like a spiral. I hope that makes sense! Please let me know if I can help answer any other questions. Thanks! -Gina
Is there a difference between the Long tail tubular cast on and just a tubular cast on? When I looked on YouTube for a video I found a very different way of doing this that involved starting with scrap yarn, and using a backwards loop cast on to cast on half your stitches then do yarn overs then slip one, knit one etc… (it was a little more involved than that but you get the point). The video was simply called a tubular cast on. What is the difference and will it work for this hat? Thank you for your time. 🙂
Hi Stephanoe!
I’ve used that method of creating a tubular cast on before and I like it! The only thing with that technique is you must use a needle at least 2 sizes larger for the cast on only, the part where you cast on half the number of stitches you eventually want to work with. The difference is only in the technique, the end result is the same. It will definitely work for this hat! Good luck – I know it’s a little scary trying a new technique, but I know it will be great. Thanks for writing in! – Gina
When you described the 2×2 rib and switching the stitches what did you mean. Switch how you cast them on or as you knit. I’m visual but am forcing myself to try to understand written like this. Sorry for the silly question.
Hi Cindy! No such thing as a silly question! There’s a great tutorial here: http://ysolda.com/tutorial/tubular-cast-on/ that should help explain. Please let me know if I can help clarify further! All my best wishes to you, Gina
Thank you so much for this clear tutorial. As I’ve become a more skilled and adventurous knitter, I’ve become unhappy with the look of the traditional long tail cast on on my small items such as mitts and socks. This tutorial was so easy to follow, and the cuffs on my knitted mitts and socks are beautiful!
This is amazing! Thank you so much for this tutorial. I struggled with the tubular cast on many times before but this helped me tremendously.
If you are making a hat or anything in the round, can you start with a set up row(s) and really transfer to circulars and it will look ok? Or should I practice on straights but use circs for an actual pattern? I have a few Brooklyn Tweed patterns and they all seem to have tubular cast ons in the round. Thanks – Audrey
Hi Audrey!
I do tubular cast-ons in the round all the time. I usually do all the way through the set up rows knit flat, and then join in the round after. Then, when you weave in your end, use that to close up the gap!
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
I am having trouble finding the Classic Cable Hat Pattern mentioned in the first paragraph if this post. The link takes me to a different hat, the Classic Cuffed Hat pattern, and a search doesn’t get it for me either. Thanks
Hi Janice-
This cast on was used in our Classic Cuffed Hat pattern. The “Classic Cabled Hat” you refer to was actually just a typo and we don’t have a project with that title. I have fixed the typo and thank you very much for bringing it to our attention.
While we don’t have a “Classic Cabled Hat” we do have a very lovely recent cabled hat patter, called the Traveling Cable Hat which may interest you: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/09/04/traveling-cable-hat/
Please let us know if you have any more questions and thanks so much for getting in touch!
Molly
I have a pattern for a cowl that is worked in the round with the option of this cast on or a regular long tail. This one calls for half the number of stitches (117 vs 234) to be worked at the beginning. How does this play out since it amounts to a significant portion of the length around it?
Hi Deb, Typically when you start the tubular cast on with half the intended number of stitches, you work those first couple of rows (the rows with half the number of stitches) at a much looser gauge. This keeps the edge from pulling in or being too tight. Then when you go to pick up the other half of the stitches, you will switch to the needles that give you the correct gauge for the remainder of the project. Let me know if that doesn’t make sense! I know it’s a little confusing until you’ve practiced a couple times. Thanks for writing in! -Gina
Hi I know people have been seeking a video (myself included) I found this great video that has step by step. I hope this is helpful.
http://youtu.be/gFT1rbPV9UI
I am hoping to use this case on for a Thermis cowl – I normally use a knitted cast on so this is new to me.
Is the ‘tail’ held in front with the thumb or behind with the finger? It’s impossible to tell from the pictures.
Thanks.
Hi Lucie! Thank you for sending your question.
The tail is held in front with the thumb, just like you would for a regular long tail cast on. Please let me know if you have any other questions! Kind regards, Gina
Hi How does tubular cast on differ from alternative cable cast on? Can’t seem to figure out how the end result is different…
Thanks
Hi Lisa, I had never heard of an alternating cable cast on! Thank you so much for mentioning it! I learned something new. It’s a great technique. The end result is not too different from a tubular cast on. You could certainly use this cast on in place of the tubular cast on. Thanks so much again for writing in! -Gina
I’m working on the Color-Dipped Hat in an Adult Large and I think that I’m going to opt for the alternating cable cast on. This cast on is best with an uneven number of cast on stitches according to this video: https://youtu.be/xphGoutbgq4. I need an even number for the hat. When I finish casting on 136 + 1 stitches, and I come back and work my foundation row, can I just purl the last 2 stitches in the foundation row together right before I join to work in the round, or is there a better solution? Thank you. Purl Soho is so beautiful!
Hello, Emma!
Thank you so much for writing in! I am not terribly familiar with the alternating cable cast on, so I shall do my best to answer your question. It seems that when you use the alternating cable cast on you need an uneven number of stitches so that you end with the same stitch that you began with, namely, a purl stitch. This way you have symmetry in your finished piece and this symmetry is great if your knitting something flat, but it seems to me that once you join in the round you’d end up with 2 purl stitches next to each other which would disrupt the 1×1 rib pattern. So, I recommend doing the alternating cable cast on with the 136 cast on stitches. Does that make sense?
Also, if you do decided to do the 136 + 1 cast on and then purl the last 2 stitches together you might end up with a tiny eyelet-like hole.
I hope that you find this helpful. Perhaps someone in our knitting community has more insight into the alternating cable cast on!
Happy knitting!
Kumeko
I worry that you might end up with a little hole similar to an eyelet in your fabric.
Where you say that if you’ve caston an odd number, the 2nd row will end with a k1, doesn’t the 2nd row instead begin (& end) with a slip 1 with yarn in front?
Hi Judy, Thanks for writing us! It depends on whether you cast on a knit stitch or a purl stitch first, that will determine what the end of the row is. Please let me know if I can help with any other questions! -Gina
I have been using this cast on, and love it! I wanted to ask why you knit into the back of the knit stitches in the first set up row. Are they twisted with this cast on, and need to be “untwisted?” Thanks!
Hi Kris, Thanks for writing us! You’re exactly right. This cast on makes the knit stitches twisted, so the first time you work them, you have to untwist them. I’m glad to hear you’re loving this cast on. We were so excited to learn it, we had to share. Happy knitting! -Gina
I’ve always done the purl portion of the cast-on with the same motion as a regular purl stitch; i.e., bring needle from the back under both strands (rather than one), and pull up a loop from the near strand under the front strand. This creates an untwisted knit on the reverse. You really are just doing a purl motion, then a knit motion for this cast-on if you take a look at what your needle is doing. (That’s how I initially was able to remember how to do it in the beginning, without always looking it up).
Are the two foundation rows the same if you work on a circular needle?
Hi Elsje,
Thank you for the comment! Yes the two foundation rows are the same when working on circular needles. I recommend knitting the foundation rows flat, turning the work for row 2, before you join the round as it’s easier to keep the stitches from twisting.
I hope this helps and feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Ok, it was the cold medicine.
I ripped out my work and cast on again, this time counting the slip knot as the first (knit) stitch. That worked out. I think adding that clarification in the tutorial would be helpful.
I find for tubular cast ons that I need to use a smaller needle, instead of a larger needle, for the cast on and subsequent foundation rows. Otherwise, my stitches flare out when I switch to the needle for the cuff/brim.
Hi Katharine,
Thanks for sharing these great tips with everyone!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Hi! In the first foundation row do you slip the purl stitches knitwise or purlwise? Thank you!
Hi Kirsten,
Thank you for the comment! For the foundation rows the slip stitches are done purlwise.
Feel free to respond if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Hi! Is there a tutorial that explains how to transfer to circular needles and then join in the round? I’m unsure of how to do this after 2 foundation rows have already been knitted.
Thanks for your help!
Hi Alex-
We don’t have a tutorial on this but it’s fairly simple. You just slip the stitches onto the circular needle one by one and then join them in the round as you normally would. If you have never joined in the round I’d suggest going on you tube and searching “join in the round”
I hope this helps, please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
Excellent explanation. Some very good tutorials out there but this one clinches it. Thank you!
Hi:
How did you accomadate knitting 90 stitches with super bulky yarn on jumbo #19s flat for the long tail tubular cast on? Somehow I managed with the 14″ 19s I have. But it was VERY tight and difficult to count. Makes me think that there is a gadget or technique out there for this. Love this type of cast on. Thanks very much for your help.
So sorry…this is for the Mountain Cowl project. Thx.
Hello, Crissy!
Thank you for writing in! I think the problem has to do with the length of the needle you used, a 14″ needle is a bit too short. We used a US size 19 32-inch circular needle and that accomodated the 90 stitches well, but I am so glad that you were able to make to make it work on your needles!
I am glad you like the long tail tubular cast on! It makes such a beautiful edge!
If you have any further questions, please write back!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Who are you people? (HA!) You come up with the coolest, classy and classic, fun, and creative projects I have ever seen!! Thank you so much!! I am amazed with all you create and it just plain makes me smile!! You are the best!!
Hi, Su!
Thank you so much for your kind words! We couldn’t exist without folks like you. Thank you for being apart of our knitting community!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Thank you for great explanations, great cast on technique. I switched stitches,as instructed in first row of ribbing to get 2×2 rib and it looks pretty good.
However, I did not expect it to loose elasticity – it tightened up the rib so much, I will have to rip out the mitt and do it again.
Did I do something wrong?
Susan
Hi Susan,
The long tail tubular cast on is built for elasticity but when you adjust the stitches for the 2×2 you are twisting stitches around. This can definitely restrict the stretch at the bottom. Try casting on a larger needle and then adjusting your stitches for 2×2 rib. This will loosen up the cast on and shouldn’t affect the look too much!
Best,
Adam
I’m attempting to make the color dipped hat with the long tail tubular cast on. All sizes call for an even number of stitches to be cast on. After the cast on, you say that for every knit stitch you knit one through the back loop and start with this stitch. Shouldn’t the first stitch of Foundation Row #1 be a slip stitch since you end with a purl stitch on the cast on row? I hope this question makes sense.
Hello Kathy,
Thanks for writing in. After casting on your last stitch purl-wise you will turn your work, leaving you with a knit (opposite of a purl) when you turn your work for foundation row 1. You will knit this stitch through the back loop and then slip the purls. I hope this sheds some light on the cast on technique!
Best,
Adam
Hello,
When a slipknot is used and you get to the end of the 2nd foundation row, is the slipknot used as a knit stitch? Is it counted as a stitch?
Thank you very much ,
Tricia
Hello Tricia,
Thanks for writing in! The slip knot is considered as a knit stitch in this tutorial. Happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
Adam, thank you so much;-)
If you are doing a basic knit purl when making something special
Do you end with an odd # or even
Hi Pat,
Thanks for writing in. The tubular cast on works best with an even number of stitches but you can certainly cast on an odd amount too. Your foundation rows will be the same except that you will slip the first stitch of the first foundation row with the yarn in front and then knit through the back loop. Good luck!
Best,
Adam
Hello, I’m confused by how to weave in the ends of the tubular cast on/off. Please help!
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for writing in! How you weave your ends on a tubular cast on depends on if you’ve joined in the round or not. If your piece is flat, then you just hide your tail up the side of the work. If you’ve joined in the round, then you’ll want to close up the gap formed by the foundation rows and then weave your end in on the inside of the work. Weaving in your ends to look invisible may take a few attempts but the trick is to keep trying new ways until you’ve got it! Good luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Hi guys! I was wondering if you can do the tubular cast on for a stockinette stitch, and how would that look like. Or maybe there is a special elastic stitch for stockinette.
I’m knitting my first sweater, top down, and my cast on is not stretchy enough.
Thanks!!
Hi Sole,
Thanks for writing in! I wouldn’t recommend the long tail tubular cast on if you are just working in stockinette right after. Rather, I would cast on with a larger needle and see if that works. There are also many, many types of stretchy cast ons that you can find tutorials for on YouTube. One of them is bound to give you the edge you want! Happy hunting and good luck knitting!
-Adam
Could you please explain the recommended method for joining in the round? I’ve tried a few different ones and keep ending up with something unsightly. Do you cast on an extra stitch, just start knitting, or do something else? Thanks!
Hi Allie,
Thanks for writing in. With this cast on you will have two rows unjoined because of the foundation stitches. Is this what you are seeing as unsightly? I like to sew this up at the end of the project while I’m weaving my tails. When I do the tubular cast on I just start to knit when joining in the round. I don’t think that there is any technique, other than tightening up your tension, that will resolve your problems with the join. Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Thank you so much for the tutorial. I know others have asked about using this for 2×2 rib, and as recommended I’ve watched Ysolda’s video, but the video doesn’t actually show how to rearrange the stitches. So can you please explain it? When you start your first regular 2×2 rib row, after you knit the first stitch then you’ll have a purl stitch where you want a knit stitch to be. So do you swap the second and third stitches on the left needle? Do you slip them on a cable needle and twist the needle so the order of the stitches is reversed? Or is there a different way? Thanks.
Hi Marly,
Thanks for the kind words! Yep, you are correct! The purl stitch following the first knit stitch is swapped with the third knit stitch. This way you end up with two knits and two purls together. You’ll keep swapping stitches to maintain the 2×2 pattern. Thanks!
-Adam
Thank you for clarifying. This cast on creates such a nice edge!
I never knew how to do this purl and knit cast on until now thank you for the detailed pictures.
Hi there 🙂 I’ve started a hat that has k2p2, k4p2 ribbing. I don’t think the tubular cast on or alternate cable cast on can work with that, right? What cast on would you recommend for ribbing that isn’t symmetric?
Thanks!
Natalie
Hello there,
Thanks for your question! I have explored this extensively for my personal endeavors and have found nothing that allows for stretchability and that tubular look with an irregular rib. Sad, I know! The best method for an irregular rib is to do a long-tail cast on or to do a folded hem. Sorry to disappoint!
Best,
Adam
Can this cast on be done with a 2×1 ribbing?
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for the question! This cast on can be done for 1×1 or 2×2 ribbing but not for 2×1 ribbing. For 2×1 ribbing I’d try using a cable cast on (you can cable cast on purl-wise) to get a tubular look. Best of luck!
-Adam
would love a video of this. its hard to hold string and scroll at the same time 😉
Hi Marie,
Thanks for writing in and for the suggestion! We will certainly keep it in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
I know this is an older topic, but I can’t find the answer anywhere! I have a hat with p1, k1, p2, k1, p2, k2, p1 repeated around as the ribbing section. Is it possible to do this cast on with that stitch arrangement since it’s not evenly spaced?
Hi Pam,
Thanks for the question! Unfortunately the long tail tubular cast on doesn’t work for any variation that is not 1×1 or 2×2 rib. I would try to do the cable cast on which you can cast on knitwise and purlwise. There are many tutorials on YouTube!
All the best,
-Adam
Would you do everything the same, including the foundation rows, if you are using round needles instead of straight needles. I don’t like seams in my knitted hats, so I’ve always used round needles.
Thank you for the video, it’s really very clear on what to do. Love it.
Karen
Hi Karen,
Yes, you would do it the same, you would just want to start off the tubular cast on with either double pointed needles, or two circular needles of the same size.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
How do I join the foundation rows when I move the rows onto a round needle?
Hi Irene,
If you’re working on a circular needle the only difference is that you don’t turn your work after your foundation rows!
I hope this helps!
Carly
Thank you for the great tuturial. I´ve regarded myself as an experienced knitter, but there is still a lot to learn, it seems. This will definitely be my preferred cast-on method from this day on.
Hi Kirsten,
Thank you so much! I am so glad that you find our tutorial helpful!
Best,
Cassy
I realize this is an older thread.. hopefully I will still get a response?? So I am knitting a hat from a different pattern but wanted to try this method of casting on. I have my cast and 2 foundation rows (I did those on straight needles as suggested) and then wanted to transfer to the round. I wasn’t exactly sure how to do this, so I just K1 P1 (1 round) using the circular needles. Now I have my work on the needles I want to use.. but I’m not sure if I did it correctly. How do I join now that I already have about 3 rows worked? Hopefully this all makes sense!
Hi Alexis,
Thanks for writing in! We are always happy to help! Joining in the round on the tubular cast on can feel a bit weird as you have already knit a few rows. You will join in the round as usual and there will be a small gap where the previously knit rows don’t join. When you finish knitting your item, you will use the remaining tail to sew up this little gap!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Thanks for sharing this video – it’s very clear & I will definitely give this method a try! 🙂
This is a very frustrating tutorial. I started off like I would for a long-tail cast on but the pictures and instructions looked totally different from the long-tail cast on I am familiar with. I clicked on the link to the long-tail cast on and found that to be identical to the long-tail cast on I’m familiar with. I came back to the tubular cast on page and watched the video, thinking I must be misunderstanding the instructions, but the technique for the purl stitch is still different from the one in the long-tail cast on method.
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sorry to hear that you found this tutorial frustrating. This cast on is a different cast on than the standard long tail cast on. It is created in a very different fashion and has a very different result than you standard long tail cast on. The long tail tubular cast on gives you a nearly invisible cast on for 1×1 ribbing whereas the long tail cast on is more of a standard look and feel.
If you are interested in a tutorial for the standard long tail cast on, it can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/long-tail-cast-on/
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I am trying to use this cast on method for the double knit baby blanket and have had to rip it out 3times now! I’m casting on 294 sts and I can’t seem to keep the sts from rolling! Very difficult to keep it all lined up properly. I’m using a circular needle. Any tips?
Thanks
Hi Simone,
Thanks for writing in! This certainly can be a bit of a challenge as any longer cast on could be but with a bit of an added challenge due to tubular nature of the cast on! I would suggest trying to be a bit looser than you normally would about the cast on as this will help the cast on not spiral while you are working it. I also, generally, lay my needle down on a flat surface after completing the cast on and then making sure that each stitch is in the correct orientation before I pick it up and begin my knitting. It can be a bit of a challenge but in the end, it is worth the bit of extra work as it creates such a pleasing cast on!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you for a great tutorial! I have a hat pattern that lists P2, [k2,p2] as the first round. Is there anyway to make a tubular cast on work with a purl 2 start?
Hi Bev,
Thanks for writing in! You definitely can start with purl stitches in the Long Tail Tubular Cast On! If you have reviewed the other comments, there are lots of good tips in here for how to modify this to work with a 2×2 rib. In addition to that, when doing the initial cast on, I would count the slip knot as a purl instead of a knit and begin with a knit cast on after that. This will reduce a few stitch swaps when you are working the first set-up row and rearranging the stitches for the 2×2 rib.
I hope this helps!
Julianna
When casting on for a top-down sock in the round, do I do the two foundation rows on straight needles and then join in the round or do I follow the foundation rows sequence with the stitches in the round and then continue in K1, p1 ribbing?
Your web site and patterns and yarns are terrific! Thanks for all your help, too!
Hello Doris,
Thank you for question and your kind words! I would recommend doing the foundation rows on straight needles. I find that it is much easier to do the foundation rows on straight needles because it gives you more stability.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Such a beautiful lovely video on long tail tubular cast on. This helped me immensely. The instructions in the video are so clear and explained so well . Lovved learning this. Thanks a million ?
I just wanted to leave a thank you for this guide and the video. It really helped to have a visual to get the method down to get started.
Can I use this cast on for 2×1 ribbing?
How about for 2×1 ribbing.
If so, do the foundation rows change at all?
Thank you….
Sorry, meant to say 2×2 or 2×1 ribbing
Hi Liz,
Thanks for writing in! Although this cast on will not work for 2×1 ribbing, you can modify it for 2×2 ribbing! We have outlined how to do this in our Lovely Ribbed Hat pattern. After working Foundation Rows 1 and 2, while working Foundation Round 1, you will switch the positions of every other stitch so that they are in a Knit 2, Purl 2 configuration, and then continue on with your 2×2 ribbing.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you for showing how to create a 2×2 rib!
I have been trying to do this cast on for two days,!
Can you please do it for me??
Hi Elizabeth,
If only I could!! Is there a particular step you are getting stuck on? If you are not already, I would strongly suggest working your tubular cast on with a straight needle rather than a circular needle, since it is much easier to keep everything from twisting and to keep track of where you are.
Best of luck!
Julianna
Thanks so much Purl Bee, your explanation and video are clear and simple! Just what I needed.
I tried this cast on with a hat and it worked perfectly. But now I plan to do a pair of mitts and wanted to knit them two at a time with magic loop. Is that possible?
Hello Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, this should be fine. I would reccomend casting them on separately and then knit them onto the same needle just to make it easier on yourself.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I used a tubular cast on technique to make an Irish-style pullover sweater for my brother-in-law. All the pieces are done but during the time the pieces were ‘dormant,’ something happened to the cast-on edge of the back. When I pulled it out of the bag, the edge was gathered as for making an apron. When I pulled it flat, whatever was holding that tubular edge together was no longer there! The first line of defense is gone. It is unraveling backwards and I don’t have a clue how to repair it. I would love some direction to a video or person who could step me through my problem. Of course, I’m wanting to get this last piece blocked and the collar done for Christmas.
Hi Christy,
Oh no, that sounds like every knitter’s worst fear! The best thing to do would be to pick up the live stitches before they unravel any further, re-knit any ribbing that unraveled completely so the back is the same length as the front, and then work a Long Tail Tubular Bind Off. This should match the cast on edge of the front so you won’t be able to tell that there was any mishap!
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi,
Thank you for this helpful tutorial and all your patterns. I am wondering if you have any tips for the best way to join in the round after the foundation rows? When I’ve used this technique, I get a large gap at the beginning of the row and its very visible when the rubbing is stretched. Or maybe tips for best way to weave in the ends after?
Thanks!
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for reaching out! You will always get a slight gap after connecting to knit in the round after completing your foundation rows. I always just sew it together using my leftover tail. I try to weave it in on the looser side as to maintain the stretch.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi
I am using the long tail tubular cast on to start your verse + reverse pattern as I prefer the way it looks compared to the normal long tail and I’ve used the tubular bind off for other patterns and intend to use it for this one. I wonder whether I should have used the set up rows called for in the pattern instead of the foundation rows described above? Or should I work the foundation rows above followed by the set up rows described in the verse + reverse pattern?
Hi Davinia,
Great question! You are on the right track – to use a tubular cast on for the Verse + Reverse scarf, you will need to first complete the setup rows above, which are considered part of the cast on. You will now need to work the set-up rows in the scarf pattern to establish the Double Knitting pattern.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you for such an amazing tutorial! Your mannerism and voice make you a wonderful teacher! Can’t wait to try this, I know this will be a great cast on method for so many of my projects! Do you have a tutorial on a similar cast off? I’m relatively new to knitting the correct way, lol….thank you so very much!
Hi Diane,
Thank you so much for writing in and the kind words! The Long Tail Tubular Bind Off is a perfect match for this cast on!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have been practicing this cast on and the foundation rows flat for the classic cuffed hat. I’m getting stuck when transferring the cast on from the straight needles to the circular needles. The instructions say not to turn my work. If all of my stitches are on the right needle after I’ve completed the 2nd foundation row, how do I transfer to the circular needles, so I’m not turning my work? Do I start with my left circular needle and slip the stitches from the right straight needle on? Then the first stitch I’ve slipped on to the circular needle would be on the right needle by the time they are all transferred?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! If the end of the needle with the working yarn attached is on the wrong side after transferring the stitches, you can simply flip your circular needle around or change hands so that the needle with the working yarn is in your right hand before joining for working in the round.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Could you please guide to work for 2k 1p ribbing. Thank you.
Hi ThuHa,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this variation of the Long Tail Tubular Cast On. We will keep your request in mind though for the future!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you so much for your tutorials! I always come back to your site when I’m looking for how-to’s! I had a question, after knitting the two foundation rows, does that mean I’ve finished one row, or is it two?
Hello Jo Ann,
Thank you for reaching out! This is such a good question, your foundation rows don’t actually count as pattern rows and are still considered part of the cast on.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for the tutorial. I’m knitting ankle warmers in a fisher man’s rip. I need the equivalent cast off for the other end, so to speak. Do you have also a tutorial for that? Or a keyword that I can look for?
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! We certainly do have a tutorial for the Long Tail Tubular Bind Off, which perfectly matches the cast on and is great for fisherman’s rib or brioche.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I am trying to do a long tail tubular cast on for the color dipped hat and am having the hardest timekeeping my stitches all facing the right way. They keep rotating and I have a hard time determining what is front and what is back. Any tips for this?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! This is probably the most challenging part of working a tubular cast on! I would suggest working the cast on using straight needles rather than circular needles, as this makes it much easier to keep the stitches aligned properly. Once you have completed the first or second foundation row, you should then be able to switch to your circular needles without any problems.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, thanks for this great tutorial. However, I am a little confused about what to do when casting on for a 1×1 rib with an odd # of stitches. If I cast on as instructed in your tutorial, my last cast on stitch will be a knit stitch instead of a purl stitch. This means that the first stitch when I start the first foundation row will look like a purl stitch (instead of a knit stitch like in your tutorial). So does this mean that I should slip the first stitch instead of knitting it like in your tutorial (since I’m supposed to knit the knits and slip the purls)? Or should I be casting on my first stitch as a knit stitch instead of a purl stitch so that my last cast on stitch is a purl stitch? Thanks for your help!
Hello Annie,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a great question. You have the exact right idea. You can do either options you present, but I reccomend casting on your first stitch as a knit so that when you turn your work and knit your first stitch it will be more secure.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I love learning a new way in knitting each time one comes up to
Do I hurray over to your website and get the instructions needed
To do the stitch. Thanks always for being there with such clear
8nstructions and demos.
Do you have a tutorial for left handed tubular rib cast on (and off)? I knit right handed but have problems casting on right handed. I know left handed casts on a bit differently from right handed but I can usually work that out. Many thanks. Your patterns are gorgeous and your yarns are as well.
Hello Elizabeth,
Thank you for reaching out! Sadly we do not have a reversed tubular cast on. I would reccomend trying it out with a small swatch to see what happens. I wish I had more of a helpful response than this!
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
-Marilla
Thank you for the tutorial! One question…how do you recommend joining in the round with this method? I typically cast on one extra stitch and then k2tog to join…but it seems like maybe this isn’t ideal with this CO?
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that casting on an extra stitch wouldn’t work well with this cast on. You can join in the round by simply beginning your first row working into the first stitch you cast on. This does usually leave a small gap, but you can easily close it up when you weave in your ends.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have watched tons of videos about the tubular cast on and this is just the best and easiest way to do it. And it looks fabulous. I can’t understand why anyone would want to use those other more complicated methods when you can get the same results with Purl Soho’s method.
Thanks for the tutorial!!
Love this cast on. Would it be appropriate to use if continuing in seed stitch?
Hi Lynne,
Thanks for reaching out! The tubular cast on would be a great choice for doing seed stitch. After you do the cast on (including foundation rows) you will want to go straight into the seed stitch pattern knitting knit stitches over the purl bumps from the previous row and purl stitches over the knits. This will give you very clean edges with a little more stretch.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I am supposed to cast on 99 stitches for my project so do I start with a knit or a purl because my last stitch on my first row says it is supposed to be a purl stitch. or can you end with a knit stitch. Does it matter when you turn your needle to work the next row if you do a knit or purl stitch? I am knitting The Weekender and I can’t get this tubular cast on figured out with the odd number of stitches. Thanks
Hi Shelia,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that I can help! For the Weekender (which I am also working on), your first row after the cast on will begin with a purl. This means that the last stitch that you cast on will be a knit. Then you turn the work from the cast on to begin working the first row, this will set you up to purl your first stitch.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks so much for your help. I want to make sure I get this right. So after my first row you said to start with a purl so does that mean to slip that first stitch with yarn in front then the next stitch will be knit in the back of the stitch? I hope this makes sense
Hi Shelia,
Thanks for writing back! After you cast on, you turn the work so that you are set up to begin. With this in mind, the last stitch that you cast on, which was a knit on the side you cast it on, is now a purl on the front side of your work. There is no need to slip the stitch! Just begin as instructed in the pattern!
Best,
Cassy
Ok I think I understand. So one row and I am ready to start my pattern instructions ? For some reason I thought I would have 3 foundation rows then I started the pattern.
I am in the same boat, casting on odd stitches for the Weekender. Referring to your first reply, if the last stitch is cast on as a knit, then you turn to begin the 2 foundation rows, don’t you need to slip the first stitch on foundation row 1? Then when you end that row and begin foundation row 2, what should that first stitch be? A slipped purl or a knit? After foundation row 2 it needs to be set up to begin the pattern, Row 1, with a P1, then K1, P1 to the end.
Hi Julia,
While I am not an expert on the Weekender and it is not one of our patterns (so I am not able to give insight into it), I am happy to try to help! The first row after the cast on begins with a P1 so you will purl the first stitch. For our tutorial we do have 2 foundation rows but I do not see them mentioned in Andrea’s pattern. It may be worth reaching out to her for some clarification if she is suggesting working the foundation rows as we do or if they are omitted.
Best,
Cassy
Hello – what would one do to fix a dropped a stitch during the first foundation row? I accidentally dropped the “purl” stitch from my left hand needle and now it is an open loop. Is there a way to save it or will I have to start from the beginning again? Thank you!
Hi Aleks,
Oh no, that is a tough one! Picking up a dropped stitch that has unraveled all the way through the cast on is always very difficult, and even more so in a tubular cast on. Because you are only on the foundation rows, I would recommend starting the cast on over. It’s always a let down to start over, but it will look much better in the end!
Best,
Julianna
I am using your long tail tubular cast on for a hat.I need 72 cast on stitches and am having a terrible time keeping it from getting twisted on a straight needle when I try to do my first foundation row. Then I am not sure how much to turn to untwist the row. Any tips?
Thank you
Hi Rita,
Thanks for reaching out! It is almost unavoidable that the cast on twists around the needle when starting a tubular cast on and it can be quite frustrating! To add to the frustration, because the initial cast on is very unstructured, at times it can look like it is twisted when it actually isn’t. Rather than trying to untwist the whole cast on before beginning, I would go ahead and start Set-Up Row 1 and pay careful attention to what each stitch looks like as you work it. As you become familiar with what the knit and purl stitches look like, you should be able to decipher each stitch when you come to it in the twisty sections.
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello!
I guess this applies to this and the regular long tail cast on, but I am looking to make the Double Knit Blanket, hence the comment here.
Do you have any recommendations/tips for figuring out how long the long tail should be for a blanket? Or how to manage that much tail? I know the instructions say 3-4 times the amount of yarn to project width, but for a blanket, that amount of tail seems quite a lot.
Thanks for any help you can provide!
-Amber
Hi Amber,
Great question! There are a few ways to determine how much yarn is needed to work a long tail cast on. My favorite is to cast on about 10 stitches and then unravel those stitches, carefully holding on to the tail and first stitch, so you can use the length of yarn that was used to cast on 10 stitches to measure out how much you will need for the full amount. Another method that is almost as accurate but a bit faster is to wrap your yarn around your needle once for each stitch and use that tail to cast on. If your tail is very long, it might be helpful to wind it around a yarn bobbin or just into a ball on itself to keep it contained while you cast on.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I would like to move forward to make the Double Knit Blanket however, I would like to clear up the Tubular Cast on. My question or where I am getting confused is on the 2 foundation, would I use just yarn A or both A and B yarn? If so how?
Hi Cate,
Thank you for writing in! If you want to use the Long Tail Tubular Cast On for this blanket, cast on 294 stitches (or 414 for the larger size) with Yarn A and your larger needles and stop before knitting the two foundation rows on the tutorial page. Instead of working the foundation rows, switch back to your Double Knit Blanket instructions and work the Set-Up Rows instead (I inserted them below for your convenience):
Set-Up Row 1 (wrong side): Turn work (see Notes) and with Yarn A,*k1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to end of row.
Set-Up Row 2 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
I hope this helps! Happy knitting!
Gaby
Does the beginning slip knot count as the first stitch? For example, my pattern says to cast on 88 stitches, so do I begin with the slip knot and then cast 88 more stitches on (starting w/ pearl & ending w/ a knit stich), or do I cast on 87 stitches after the slip knot (starting w/ pearl and ending w/ a pearl stitch)? I’m making the Classic Cuffed Hat and having a hard time with this tubular cast on. I am also confused on what type of stitch to start with for the 2 foundation rows. The pattern says start with a knit for both of the foundation rows, but wouldn’t you alternate since you are turning work? So if I end with a knit stitch on cast on row, then should I start with a pearl stitch for the first foundation row and then start with a knit stitch for the 2nd foundation row?
Hi Maranda,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a great question- the slip knot does count in your total cast on number, so as you mentioned you’ll only need to work the tubular cast on for 87 stitches. Although the tutorial above has you work the first stitch as a knit, patterns often will often have their own directions. In this case you’ll want to follow the specific instructions from the Classic Cuffed Hat pattern, which asks you to start with a purl stitch. I’ve included those Beginning instructions from the hat pattern below for your convenience:
BEGIN
With the straight needle (or the larger circular needles, if you wish), use a Tubular Cast On to cast on 72 (80, 88) stitches. The first stitch you cast on, after the beginning slipknot, should be a purl stitch. Turn the work and do not join.
With the same needle, work two Foundation Rows, as explained in our Long Tail Tubular Cast On Tutorial:
Row 1: *K1 through the back loop, slip 1 with yarn in front, repeat from * to end of row. Turn.
Row 2: *K1, slip 1 with yarn in front, repeat from * to end of row. Do not turn.
I hope this is helpful, but feel free to reach out if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
I don’t see FOR DOUBLE KNITTING
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! Our Double Knit Blanket offers some guidance for how to use the Long Tail Tubular Cast On in double knit projects. Once you have completed the initial cast on from the tutorial above, rather than moving on to the foundational rows, switch to the Cast On + Set Up section in the Double Knit Blanket pattern and proceed to Set-Up Row 1 & 2. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Hi! This was so helpful in helping me to bind on my first ever sweater! Does it matter if I end on a Purl or knit stitch? My pattern calls for an odd number! So then I think on my First foundation row is have to start with the yarn in front slip instead of the knit TBL or does it not matter and I always should start w knit TBL? Thanks!
Hi Emma,
Congrats on starting your first sweater! This cast-on method will work perfectly with an odd number of stitches. Another cast-on method I would try is the Make 1 Backwards Loop method. This is a super simple method that I use on all of my projects. It also has a nice elasticity, making it perfect for ribbing. If you find that the cast-on is too tight, try sizing up 1 needle size for the cast on then size back down when you start knitting. Both of these methods shouldn’t affect how you work the first stitch of each row, so I would just follow the instructions!
I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting!
Oscar
Can you use this tubular cast on method for 1X1 ribbing? I’m using Shibui Pebble to make a Julie Hoover pattern sweater in the round (bottom up, one piece) and I’ve seen a tubular cast on method for 1×1 ribbing using a provisional cast on with a crochet hook. I’m really confused about which tubular cast on would work best for such a fine yarn as Shibui Pebble. Perhaps your suggestion of starting on a straight needle would help. I’ve already tried doing this on a round needle and it came out very sloppy looing. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Lisa,
This cast-on method would great on a 1×1 rib with your yarn! The looseness that occurs when doing a long cast-on with circular needles can be frustrating but is something that will even itself out as you continue working on the piece and with blocking. Casting on with a straight needle then transferring to a circular needle is a great way to keep the stitches even while working on a piece! Another suggestion I have is to cast on some of the stitches onto one needle and then the rest onto another circular or double-pointed needle of the same size. This way, you won’t have to transfer stitches onto a circular needle and won’t be pulling and stresses out the stitches so much, keeping them tidy!
I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting!
Oscar
Thank you so much for this very clear picture of making a stretchy cast on. I’d like to use it for a hat, but knitted in the round. It wasn’t clear to me how to do this. Should I do the initial set up rows on flat needles? Then transfer to circular? Won’t that leave a gap or separation where the set up rows are? Is there a visual tutorial that would explain this better?
Hi Rita,
Thanks for writing in! I am so glad to hear that you have enjoyed this tutorial! Unfortunately we don’t have a tutorial of working this cast on method in the round, but we do explain exactly how to work this cast on in the round for a hat in our Lovely Ribbed Hat pattern!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
For K2P2 ribbing, could one not just do two of the “knit” cast on, and then two of the “purl” cast on, right in the very first row? Instead of switching the stitches later? Or would that mess up the slipping of the purls in the other foundations rows?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! That is an interesting thought! It may add an extra complication to working the foundations rows since the cast on stitches would be twisted in different directions, I would recommend sticking to the original cast on method to insure a clean and net look of your cast on and also that it will work correctly with the foundation row!
Warmly,
Gianna
This is a great tutorial. At this point all my straight needles are shorter double points. Is there any trick if you have to cast on many stitches for a larger sized project / sweater. Can I move stitches to circular needles in stages, or do I just have to find some longer straight needles that will fit the entire # of cast on stitches?
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend working with a longer straight needle for larger projects like sweaters! Using shorter DPNs and working in batches could get pretty confusing and unnecessarily complicate things!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m trying to learn this cast on and I was curious what length of straight needles would you recommend for doing it on if you were making an adult beanie that’s recommends tubular cast on? Would you go for the 12 incl crystal palace or are the ones in the crystal palace straight needles set (I think 8.5 inch) sufficient?
Hi Evie,
Thanks for reaching out! The length of your needle depends a bit on how many stitches you’re casting on; you want to make sure that you’ve got enough room for all the stitches to sit comfortably on the needles. The 12″ would certainly give you enough room, but the 8.5″ might be fine as well (particularly if the hat is being knit flat and then seamed together). If you have a pattern that you’re working from, it might specify which length needle to use. If you were looking for circular needles, I’d say a 16″ would be sufficient for an adult size beanie.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
You are amazing! Not only are the instructions so easy to follow, but the way you present everything in such a light and pleasant way, I just feel like, “I will be able to do this, no problem!” Keep the tutorials coming!
Hi Linda,
Thank you for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so glad to hear that you have found our tutorial helpful!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
This is the best Long-tail Tubular Cast-on Tutorial I have seen. At last, I understand. All of your tutorials are clear and easy to follow. Thank you, so much.
I always find Purl Soho to have the most clear and concise instructions for knitting techniques, and the long-tail tubular cast-on is another wonderful demonstration! I did successfully complete a swatch with this cast-on, but I found the initial placement of the cast-on stitches to be rather fiddly. In my normal long-tail cast-on method, each CO stitch creates an individual knot (which will not easily unravel). With this tubular method, my CO stitches resemble slip knots; they do not have a strong knot and they unravel very easily. Is this normal for the tubular technique? Thank you!
Hi Prana,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m so glad you found this tutorial helpful! What you’re describing sounds pretty typical of the long tail tubular cast-on (as well as the regular long tail cast-on). The cast-on stitches are definitely not knotted, so there is the potential to unravel. However, as long as you keep careful track to make sure they don’t fall off the needle, the stitches will be completely anchored into place once you complete the first row and as you continue knitting. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I love this cast on thanks to your wonderful videos. Is the tubular cast on also used for stockinette? All the tutorials refer to ribbing?
Hi Mimi,
Thanks so much for reaching out! Because of how the Long Tail Tubular Cast On method is worked, it provides a neat and stretchy edge for ribbed fabric. You can knit a similar edge for stockinette stitch by following our tutorial for a Knit-Hem!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
are you saying that I would do a regular cast on, knit 3-4 rows and then do this knit-hem to create the tube effect? Then continue in pattern beyond that ?
Hi Mimi,
The cast on for this technique is up to you and you can knit as many rows as you would like for the hem. You can change the width of the hem by knitting more rows or less rows of stockinette after your cast on!
All the best,
Carly
Suggestions for casting on 414 stitches for double-knit blanket? Straight needle isn’t long enough.
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out. For our Double Knit Blanket, we recommend using 32-, 40-, or 47-inch circular needles, so that all the stitches fit! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m not a knitter😔 I love your format and the beautiful colors you post💕👍🏼.
Hi Trisha,
Thanks for the kind words! We’re always happy to help you become a knitter if you ever want to take those next steps and try!
All the best,
Gavriella