Lovely Ribbed Hat
Our Lovely Ribbed Hat may take its cue from the classic watchman cap, but you don’t have to be a stevedore to wear this perfectly constructed little head warmer!
Our version retains the soul of the ones worn on docks and decks since who-knows-when, but it has certainly dispensed with the itch. Knit up in our incredibly soft Season Alpaca, this simple hat is sumptuous and warm and wonderful on the head!
Wear your Lovely Ribbed Hat like Jacques Cousteau, neat and trim with a turned up rim, or leave it long for a more tossed-off look. It’s happy either way!
And in a 2 x2 rib, you’ll just be alternating a couple of knits with a couple of purls. If you can do that, you can make one for everyone in your life, from toddlers to adults. And it’s an ideal project to take with you anywhere… You’ll just need one skein for all but the largest size, which only takes 2!
Update: New Yarn
February 28, 2020
This particular Lovely Ribbed Hat is not only one of our most beloved and classic hat patterns, it also introduces our very newest yarn, Linen Quill Worsted! Read all about it here!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoLovelyRibbedHat, and #PurlSohoSeasonAlpaca. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 (1, 2) skeins of Purl Soho’s Season Alpaca, 100% baby alpaca. Each skein is 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 106 (205, 264) yards required. We used the colors Pink Taupe (Baby Fawn, Dove Gray).
- US 2 (3 mm), 16-inch circular needles (or 12-inch for Baby size)
- A set of US 2 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including 1 unique
Gauge
36 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern
Sizes
Toddler/Kid Small (Kid Large/Adult Small, Adult Large)
To fit actual head size of 14 to 16¼ (19 to 22, 23½ to 27¼) inches
- Finished Circumference (unstretched): 10¾ (14¼, 17¾) inches
- Finished Height: 7¾ (11, 12¼) inches
Pattern
Begin At Bottom Edge
Cast 96 (128, 160) stitches onto circular needles. We used a Long Tail Tubular Cast On, because it’s nice and stretchy, but a basic Long Tail Cast On would also be beautiful (and less complicated!) If you use the Long Tail Tubular Cast On, don’t forget to work the three Foundation Rows before joining in the round (they are described both in our tutorial and below).
If you did a Long Tail Tubular Cast On…
Foundation Row 1: *Knit 1 through the back loop, slip one purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to end of row.
Foundation Row 2: *K1, slip 1 purlwise wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Place a unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Foundation Round 3: *K1, knit the second stitch on the left needle letting the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle, place that fallen stitch back onto the left needle, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Continue to the Continue In 2 x 2 Rib section.
If you did a Long Tail Cast On or similar…
Place a unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Continue to the next section, Continue In 2 x 2 Rib.
Continue In 2 x 2 Rib
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 6½ (8¾, 9) inches from cast-on edge.
Shape Crown
NOTE: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker, [(k1, p2, k1) six (8, 10) times, place marker] three times, *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 1: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 2: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, k1, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1] four times.
Round 3: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 4: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, k3, *p2, k2, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1] four times.
Round 5: [K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 6: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, *k2, p2, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2] four times.
Round 7: [K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches before next marker, p2, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 8: *K1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1-8 zero (1, 2) more time(s). [64 stitches]
Next Round: *Ssk, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. [32 stitches]
Repeat last round. [16 stitches]
Cut yarn and thread the tail onto a tapestry needle. Draw the needle through the remaining stitches, pull taut, and bring the tail to the inside of the hat.
Finish
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
I am nearly finished knitting this hat and am planning on wet blocking it, since that is how I finished the gauge swatch. This is the first hat I’ve ever knit (yay!) so I’m wondering-should I fold up the bottom when wet and let it dry that way or should I just let it dry unfolded? Do you recommend letting it dry over a bowl or balloon or keeping it flat and shifting every so often so it dries evenly? Thank you for your help and all the beautiful free patterns!!
Hi Lilli,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I would recommend blocking the hat with the brim folded (it will help with a more crisp edge) and letting it dry flat!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gianna
Hello! This pattern looks absolutely beautiful. Knitting novice here so apologies if this is a basic question, but if I wanted to knit this up in 1×1 rib instead (similar to your best friend hat) for an adult, would I need to change the number of stitches I cast on? Or would 160 still suffice? I know that some patterns significantly increase/decrease the stretchiness of the hat, so I don’t want to accidentally make it too small by using 1×1 rib. Thank you so much!
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for reaching out! That is a great question, there may be a bit of change in the overall stretch of the hat but I don’t think it will be significant enough to overwhelming change the size. I would recommend working a gauge swatch with 1×1 rib and comparing it to the stitches per inch of the 2×2 rib in this pattern and then you can asses if you will need to alter the cast on at all! Our All About Gauge tutorial is an excellent resource to use!
All the best,
Gianna
Thank you so much, Gianna!!
Does the pattern length account for a turned up rim? Or should I adjust?
Hi Tiffany,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, the pattern length includes enough for a folded up cuff!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi Purl Soho,
I just successfully finished my first time long tale tubular cast on 🙂 However, I’m stuck on the Foundation Row 1. I read it over and over again, but I don’t seem to understand what you mean by slipping the first stitch as it seems to me you’ve already slipped it while knitting K1 haven’t you? Is there a different way of explaining or a video maybe?
Hope to hear from you, thanks very much!
Hi Britt,
Thanks for reaching out! So you aren’t slipping the first stitch, you knit the first stitch and then the 2nd stitch you are slipping purlwise meaning you put you needle into the stitch as if to purl but instead of working the stitch you move it from the left to the right needle without actually knitting it! You then repeat the Knit 1 through the back loop, slip one purlwise with yarn in front for the rest of the row.
I hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Thanks so much for your fast reply. I’m so sorry, I asked about the wrong row by mistake.
So I‘ve knit foundation row 1 & 2 with success on single pointed needles. Now I’ve switched to circular needles and I’m supposed to K1 and then K2 while slipping the K1 temporarily. This part I don’t understand 🙂
Thanks so much for your time. Looking forward to hear from you again!
Hi Britt,
Thanks for reaching out again! I see, yes it is confusing since there are two rounds of foundation rows! So for this step you are knitting 1, and then you are going to ignore the stitch that if first on the left needle and let is slip off the needles, you will then knit the second stitch and then pick the dropped stitch (so it is twisted over the other stitch like a cable stitch would be) and the you will purl it.
I hope this makes sense!
All the best,
Gianna
That part is called:
Foundation Round 1 in the pattern, just to be sure you know which part I’m talking about 🙏🏻
Hi there!
Because of the yarn and needle size I used, I only have 132 stitches. How can I modify the crown-shaping to make it work for that number of stitches? Thank you!
Hi Olivia,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you followed the same 2×2 rib stitch you should be able to follow the shaping as written but will just need to adjust the set up row to place your stitch markers in the correct spots, you can figure this out by dividing your stitches by 4 and following the k2 p2 instructions!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I was wondering if you think the Good Wool would work for this hat?
Hi Veronica,
Thanks for reaching out! Good Wool would work perfectly for this hat, it is a sport weight like Season Alpaca so they should knit up to about the same gauge! I do recommend working a gauge swatch to insure you are consistent with the pattern before you begin.
All the best,
Gianna
Hi! Wondering why if the yarn says size 3-5 needles the pattern uses size 2? Curious to learn.
Hi Cristina,
Thanks for reaching out! Typical when working a rib stitch you go down in needle size so that it is more taut, so since this hat is a bit stitch we went down to a US 2 (even though usually for that yarn you would use a 3-5) to insure a great and stretchy fit!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, would Mulberry Merino work as a replacement for the suggested yarn? Thank you!!
Hi Olivia,
Thanks for reaching out! Mulberry Merino would be an excellent option in place of Season Alpaca! They should knit up to a similar gauge but I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to insure you are consistent with the pattern!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi. I just purchased gift bundles to make hats for Christmas. Is the yarn included enough to knit both a gauge swatch and the hat?
Thanks,
Melissa
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes with 2 skeins of Linen Quill Worsted you should have plenty of yarn to swatch and knit the hat!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi!
I know this is a silly question, but I’m a very novice knitter, and all long tail tubular cast on explanations I’ve seen are for DPNs/Single pointed needles, not circular needles.
So how do I work the foundation rows in circular needles?
Thank you!
Hi Glenda,
Thanks for reaching out! When working with a Long Tail Tubular Cast On you always start by casting on to straight needles. You will work Foundation Rows 1 and 2 on the straight needles, and then you will then transfer the stitches to your circular needles and place a unique marker and join for working in the round! You can see this process in our Long Tail Tubular Cast On tutorial. If you don’t feel comfortable working this cast on technique you can easily use Long Tail Cast On instead!
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
As a new knitter, I am unclear after joining in the round with a knit stitch, do I then start the first round with K2P2 or does the joining stitch count as the first K?
Thanks for any help!
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! The joining knit stitch counts as your first k so you would now k1 p2 and then continue on in the k2 p2 pattern!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there. Thank you for the pattern. I’m clearly missing something in the setting up of stich markers for the decrease… Please help. I only have 4 stitch markers for the smallest size, so for the first decrease row I would be decreasing only 5 stitches, not 8. Can you tell where I’m going wrong?
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out! You stitch markers sound correct to me, you should have 4 stitch markers including the unique end of round marker! I think I see what might be happening! For round 1 of the shaping section, the 4 times refers to everything inside the brackets, not just the k2tog section. So you will be working the ssk and k2tog both within each section, giving you a total of 8 stitches decreased. I find that sometimes, writing the row out long form can help here!
Round 1 reads: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 1 EXPANDED reads: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog], [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog], [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog], [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog]. [8 total stitches decreased]
I hope this clears things up and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you so much for the great explanation… that makes sense! 🙂
Hello, I’m a novice knitter and confused about language in the Set-Up Round…
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker, [(k1, p2, k1) six (8, 10) times, place marker] three times, *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
What it she “three times” referring to? These are the steps I’m clear on, but I don’t see what what I am supposed to be doing three times?
1. Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker
2. k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker
3.[(k1, p2, k1) six (8, 10) times, place marker] three times
4. *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round
Any clarity would be appreciated, thanks!
Hi Sunday!
When the pattern says “three times”, it’s referring to the instructions inside the brackets []. So for example, if you were knitting the smallest size, it’s asking you to:
(k1, p2, k1) 6 times, place a marker; then repeat that set of instructions two more times (which totals the “three times” mentioned).
I hope that helps clear things up, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy Knitting!
Kelsey
Hi, I’m looking at the sizes and wondering what “adult small” and “adult large” really mean (and why isn’t there an “adult medium?”). I am knitting the hat for an 18-year-old young woman who has what I assume is a typical-sized head for a person her age, but it is a surprise so I can’t ask her head measurement. What’s your best guess here?
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for reaching out! Since this is a ribbed hat there is a lot of flexibility with the sizing, that is why we offer an adult small and adult large! Those two sizes will fit quite a range of sizes for all genders! For a younger woman I would suggest the Adult Small! I am 23 myself and have a 21″ circumference which is pretty standard, and I always make the Adult Small size for myself!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi I’m knitting this hat for my dad who wants a fitted hat without a fold over brim (more like a beanie). Could you recommend how long I should roughly knit the hat? Or at least how deep the fold over brim is so I could roughly work out how much to reduce the hats height. I’m knitting the largest size incase you needed to know. Thank you in advance 🙂
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for reaching out! The cuff is approximately 2″ so if you are making the Adult Large I would suggest working the 2×2 rib stitch until you reach 7″ instead of 9″!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi! Is there a video or further clarification that explains how to do the following?
“Foundation Round 1: *K1, knit the second stitch on the left needle letting the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle, place that fallen stitch back onto the left needle, p2, repeat from * to end of round.“
Thanks in advance!
Hi Lani,
Thanks for reaching out! While we don’t currently have a video tutorial of this particular row, I’d be happy to help clarify it for you!
After the initial K1, you’re going to let the next stitch on your left needle gently fall off the needle (being careful not to let this stitch unravel), then knit the following stitch. Now, place the stitch that you let fall off the needle back onto the left needle, then purl that stitch and the following stitch. That brings you to the *, which directs you to repeat that entire sequence again from the initial K1.
I hope this helps clear things up, but if you have any other questions you can always reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com for more help!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Thank you!!
Hi there! Love your yarns and patterns! I’m knitting this hat and started with 120 stitches cast on because of my yarn/needle size etc. I’m about to start shaping the crown and am struggling a bit with where to start since my cast on number is different from the pattern. Is there perhaps a row I could add and then rejoin the pattern instructions? Thanks so much!! Kate
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! We’re glad to hear you enjoy our yarns and patterns so much and would love to help you out on this. In the future, we’d highly recommend changing your needle size if your gauge is off, rather than adjusting the cast on number. This is particularly difficult to modify for hats because the decreases in a crown have to be performed a certain way to make the ribbing look neat. Since you’re closer to the middle size I’d recommend only changing the set up round by using the instructions below instead.
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker,
[(k1, p2, k1) 8 times, place marker]
[(k1, p2, k1) 7 times, place marker]
[(k1, p2, k1) 8 times, place marker]
*k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
You can follow the rest of the pattern as written, but when it says “Repeat Rounds 1-8 zero (1, 2) more time(s). [64 stitches]” repeat rounds 1-8 one more time, which will give you 56 stitches total by that point instead of 64. When you get to the very end, you should only have 14 stitches to slip your thread through.
I hope that helps and you’re able to continue on easily!
All the best,
Zha Zha
I have a DK tweed I think is perfect for this hat, 231yds/100g would this pattern work for this?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in. While we designed this hat for a sportweight yarn, you may be able to make the DK work, as long as you’re able to get the correct gauge. You may want to try using smaller needles from the start, since that could help make your gauge tighter! In terms of the yardage, 231 yards would be enough to make the smallest two sizes, but you would need more yarn to make the largest size. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can this be knit in a DK weight yarn? How do I adjust the needle size. Thank you in advance
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for reaching out. I think you could definitely knit this hat with DK yarn, but you would need to do some modifications to the number of stitches you cast on, as well as changing the needle size. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern with the needles you plan on using (you can use whichever size work best for your yarn). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 4.
Then, you can just follow the pattern as written, up until the Shape Crown section. Here, you’re going to want to place your 3 stitch markers (in addition to your end-of-round markers) and even distance apart. You can figure out exactly how many stitches this is by dividing your cast-on number by 4. Then, just work the crown decrease until you have 16 stitches left, and pull the yarn through to close the hat!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can this be knit with chunky yarn? What adaptations would I need to make?
Hi Pam,
Thanks for writing in. I think you could definitely knit this hat with chunky yarn, but you would need to do some modifications to the number of stitches you cast on, as well as changing the needle size. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern with the needles you plan on using. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 4.
Then, you can just follow the pattern as written, up until the Shape Crown section. Here, you’re going to want to place your 3 stitch markers (in addition to your end-of-round markers) and even distance apart. You can figure out exactly how many stitches this is by dividing your cast-on number by 4. Then, just work the crown decrease until you have 16 stitches left, and pull the yarn through to close the hat!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Round 3: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Above is from the decrease instructions – I can’t figure out any way that these directions end up as 8 stitched decreased.
ssk – 1 decrease
k2 tog 4 times – 4 decreases
Hi Kathie,
Thanks for reaching out. You’ll actually be working both the ssk and the k2tog 4 times each! The “four times” refers to all of the instructions within the square brackets, rather than just the last stitch. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
sorry – but then what do the stars mean? after the SSK, I should k2 and p2 until the last 4 stitches – last 4 before what – the marker? if I do that, I can’t repeat the whole thing 4 times. For starters, there are 2 markers plus the end of row marker.
Hi Kathie,
The stars here just mean to work “in pattern,” meaning knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches! So on Round 1, after you work the ssk, you’ll just knit the knits and purl the purls until 2 stitches before each marker. At this point in the pattern, you should actually have 4 stitch markers on your needles (3 plus the end of round marker), so I would recommend going back to the Set-Up Round and placing the final marker before continuing on!
All the best,
Lili
Are the recommended needle sizes and pattern given for the worsted weight version? Just a little confused! Thank-you!
Hi Kyla,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Season Alpaca version, you will want to use a US 2 needle (shown in the materials list on the original pattern project page), and for the Linen Quill Worsted version, you will want to use a US 5 needle (shown in the materials list on the update project page). However, you will follow the same pattern on the original pattern page for both versions!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I’m a novice hat knitter and find myself close to the set-up round section. I need guidance about two things. I adjusted the pattern and casted on 140 stitches for a good fit and need help with the number of decreases. Also, I used a basic long tail cast on assuming I didn’t need to knit three foundation rows. Is this correct? Do I need to start all over again? Gosh, I look forward to your feedback!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out. Since you followed the same 2×2 rib stitch you should be able to follow the shaping as written but will just need to adjust the set-up row to place your stitch markers in the correct spots, you can figure this out by dividing your stitches by 4 and following the k2 p2 instructions! And in answer to your question about the long tail cast-on, no, you definitely did not need to knit the foundation rows. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I cast on 124 stitches since earlier comments said the pattern would still work with any multiple of four. However, I just started the first decrease round and have been having some trouble. I divided the stitches into 4 equal groups of 31 stitches each in the set up round. For round 1, I did the (k1, p2, k1)x2, ssk, and repeated p1, k2, p1 — but I only got to k1, p2 before there were two stitches left before the next marker. I continued to the next markers but have been having similar issues — for instance, I ended up having to p2tog instead of k2tog. I’m worried I’m messing up the pattern!
Round 1: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Hi Margalit,
Thanks for writing in and sorry for the delay in responding to your comment! The problem that you are running into is that there are not an even number of stitches within the marker sections. Looking at the pattern further, even though the body of the hat works over multiples of 4, the crown shaping actually will only work over a multiple of 8 stitches. Unfortunately, the best plan of action would be to take out the work and cast on the correct number of stitches, or you can try to continue as is, but the shaping may look a bit funky compared to how it looks in the photos.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
My head is a little under 23”. But the sizes exclude that size. I assume the small would be too tight and the large would be too big. What can I do?
Hi Anne,
I’d recommend going with the Small! I find that over time, knit hats tend to stretch out a bit, so it would be better to start from something that’s slightly smaller, rather than slightly larger.
All the best,
Lili
Hi – could you use super soft merino for this hat?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid that Super Soft Merino is too thick of a yarn for this pattern. The Lovely Ribbed Hat was written for a sportweight yarn, which is significantly thinner than a bulky weight yarn like Super Soft Merino. I’d recommend taking a look at the Snowy Day Hat instead, for a fairly similar-looking design that uses this yarn though!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I just finished this project — it’s the 2nd thing I’ve ever knitted, so I’m very excited! Unfortunately, I underestimated how stretchy this would be, and it’s too big for my head by at least an inch around. I’d hate to start over from scratch and undo all my work….would soaking in hot water to shrink slightly be a safe option? The yarn I used is 100% non-superwash merino. Thanks!
Hi Lee,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that your hat turned out too large! I would recommend staying away from hot water in general, since it has the potential to felt the wool, which changes its texture considerably. What you could do instead though is run elastic thread through the brim, which will help it make it more snug while not altering the yarn at all. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there, am loving this pattern, however I’m stuck on the 2nd decrease row.
Round 2: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, k1, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1] four times.
Somehow is seems to mess up the k2 p2 rib pattern. What am I doing wrong?
Thank you for you help.
Hi Shelly,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that you’ve run into a stopping point! After Round 1, the stitch pattern actually will not be completely 2 x 2 ribbing! That’s because you’re worked some decreases in Round 1 that turned some of the p2 columns into p1 columns for a bit. The way Round 2 works is that it keeps you knitting “in pattern,” or, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches, even though it’s not continuous 2 x 2 ribbing. After you cycle through all the decrease rounds once, you’ll be back to 2 x 2 ribbing. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili