Our Lovely Ribbed Hat may take its cue from the classic watchman cap, but you don’t have to be a stevedore to wear this perfectly constructed little head warmer!
Our version retains the soul of the ones worn on docks and decks since who-knows-when, but it has certainly dispensed with the itch. Knit up in our incredibly soft Season Alpaca, this simple hat is sumptuous and warm and wonderful on the head!
Wear your Lovely Ribbed Hat like Jacques Cousteau, neat and trim with a turned up rim, or leave it long for a more tossed-off look. It’s happy either way!
And in a 2 x2 rib, you’ll just be alternating a couple of knits with a couple of purls. If you can do that, you can make one for everyone in your life, from toddlers to adults. And it’s an ideal project to take with you anywhere… You’ll just need one skein for all but the largest size, which only takes 2!
Designed for Purl Soho by Laura Ferguson.
Update: New Yarn
February 28, 2020
This particular Lovely Ribbed Hat is not only one of our most beloved and classic hat patterns, it also introduces our very newest yarn, Linen Quill Worsted! Read all about it here!
Materials
- 1 (1, 2) skeins of Purl Soho’s Season Alpaca, 100% baby alpaca. We used the colors Pink Taupe (Baby Fawn, Dove Gray).
- US 2, 16-inch circular needles (or 12-inch for Baby size)
- A set of US 2 double pointed needles
- 4 stitch markers, including one unique marker
Gauge
36 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern
Sizes
Toddler/Kid Small (Kid Large/Adult Small, Adult Large)
To fit actual head size of 14 to 16¼ (19 to 22, 23½ to 27¼) inches
- Finished Circumference (unstretched): 10¾ (14¼,17¾) inches
- Finished Height: 7¾ (11, 12¼) inches
Pattern
Begin At Bottom Edge
Cast 96 (128, 160) stitches onto circular needles. We used a Long Tail Tubular Cast On, because it’s nice and stretchy, but a basic Long Tail Cast On would also be beautiful (and less complicated!) If you use the Long Tail Tubular Cast On, don’t forget to work the three Foundation Rows before joining in the round (they are described both in our tutorial and below).
If you did a Long Tail Tubular Cast On…
Foundation Row 1: *Knit 1 through the back loop, slip one purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to end of row.
Foundation Row 2: *K1, slip 1 purlwise wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Place a unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Foundation Round 1: *K1, knit the second stitch on the left needle letting the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle, place that fallen stitch back onto the left needle, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Continue to the Continue In 2 x 2 Rib section.
If you did a Long Tail Cast On or similar…
Place a unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Continue to the next section, Continue In 2 x 2 Rib.
Continue In 2 x 2 Rib
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 6½ (8¾, 9) inches from cast-on edge.
Shape Crown
NOTE: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker, [(k1, p2, k1) six (8, 10) times, place marker] three times, *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 1: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 2: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, k1, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1] four times.
Round 3: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 4: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, k3, *p2, k2, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1] four times.
Round 5: [K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 6: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, *k2, p2, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2] four times.
Round 7: [K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches before next marker, p2, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 8: *K1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1-8 zero (1, 2) more time(s). [64 stitches]
Next Round: *Ssk, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. [32 stitches]
Repeat last round. [16 stitches]
Cut yarn and thread the tail onto a tapestry needle. Draw the needle through the remaining stitches, pull taut, and bring the tail to the inside of the hat.
Finish
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
PRINT
Can I do this on straight needles ?
Hi Dienie,
Thanks for reaching out! The instructions for this hat are only available written in the round. However, we do have another hat that uses this lovely yarn that is knit flat and can be made on straight needles. Our Four Spokes Hat may work well for you!
Best,
Cassy
It seems to me that any pattern in the round can be knitted with straight double-point needles. But, maybe there is fiddliness when using them over the circular needles.
Hi Jayne,
You are correct! Just about any pattern written in the round can be knit using double pointed needles instead! For this pattern and for most hat patterns, DPNs work well just so long as they are long enough! Generally speaking, we find that straight needles refer to straight single pointed needles and the pattern being knit flat and seemed. While you certainly can alter a hat pattern to be knit flat, it does take a fair bit of work!
Best,
Cassy
Hi Dienie,
Thanks for your question! It is possible to knit this hat on straight needles but it will require some slight pattern adjusting! I would recommend casting on 2 extra stitches, 1 at each edge, to have as a selvedge to be seamed up later. The only difference is that there is a right side and a wrong side when knitting flat.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Hello! What size yarn is this? Could I use “A Touch of Alpaca” from LionBrandYarn? http://www.lionbrand.com/touch-of-alpaca.html
Thanks
Hi Sophie,
Thanks for reaching out! The Season Alpaca that we used for this lovely hat has a gauge of 6-7 stitches per inch and it looks as though the yarn that you are hoping to use has a gauge of 4.75 which is a good deal thicker. I think that, with this in mind, it would not make a good substitute here. If you would like to use an alternate yarn, I would suggest looking for a yarn with a gauge of 6-7 inches per inch!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Very helpful! Thank you for responding 🙂
Hi
Question. Doesn’t the pattern say that the gauge is 36 st=9 per inch? but just above in this comment it says 6-7 st per inch? I tool was looking to use up some worsted twist I have from purl soho to make a cute pompom hat. I better wait until I hear back! Thanks.
Hi abbe,
Thanks for writing in! I can help! For this lovely pattern, the gauge is 36 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern. The ribbed pattern pulls in quite a bit and the given gauge (which is in stockinette) of a yarn will differ quite a bit from the gauge in pattern. So here, Season Alpaca has a stated gauge of 6 to 7 stitches per inch but in the ribbed pattern, it has a gauge of 9 stitches per inch. With that in mind, if you would like to use an alternate yarn you will be looking for a yarn with a stated gauge of 6 to 7 stitches per inch.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This pattern ticks all boxes and the colours used are very different – and I just LOVE that 🙂
This looks like a perfect hospital hat for a newborn! If I wanted to make it a bit smaller than the toddler size what cast on number would you suggest?
Hi Kiomi,
I agree, our Season Alpaca would be so snuggly and soft for a newborn! The next smallest cast on that the pattern would work with is 80 stitches which is a big jump down; however, I think the toddler size could fit a newborn with plenty of room to grow. Ribbing is very stretchy by nature, and the toddler size unstretched measures 10 3/4″ which is not too far off from an average newborn’s head. You could also try working the hat on US 1 needles for a bit tighter gauge to shrink the hat a bit.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Can this hat be knit up in understory? I realize understory is thicker, but would you happen to know how many stitches of understory would be needed to cast on for an adult small hat ? I have 3/4 or more of a skein left over from another project.
Thanks!
Hi Alice,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately that is quite a big jump in gauge, and we are not able to alter patterns that require gauge for fit in the comment section. We don’t have any hats quite like the Lovely Ribbed Hat written in the correct gauge for Understory, but I would recommend taking a look at our Travelling Cable Hat, either as an option to use up your yarn, or as a jumping off point for modifying the Lovely Ribbed Hat pattern!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello, I love all your patterns. I don’t understand, why is there two different instructions for foundation row 1? Thank you,
Hello Emilsen,
Thank you for reaching out! This lovely hat pattern has to options for casting on so the foundation row correspond to whichever cast on method you choose to use, the long tail tubular cast, or the long tail cast on.
I hope this clears things up for you and happy knitting!
Marilla
Hi! I just had this question too and it looks like the instructions for Foundation Row #1 for the Long Tail Cast On might be under the heading for the Long Tail Tubular Cast On, along with the instructions for that technique. I don’t know if its possible to edit that section, but in case anyone else comes along this issue, my comment is here for you!
Hi guys thanks for your neverending inspirations!
I’m having some trouble understanding this part – could you possibly clarify?? THANKS!!
Foundation Round 1: *K1, knit the second stitch on the left needle letting the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle, place that fallen stitch back onto the left needle, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Hi Judy,
Great question! A Tubular Cast On creates a Knit 1, Purl 1 ribbed edging. The Lovely Ribbed Hat, however, is worked in Knit 2, Purl 2 ribbing, and this extra step moves the knit and purl stitches to be next to each other so that the cast on edge will line up with the ribbing. It is a bit confusing to read, but I think if you tried it out and kept in mind that the goal is to rearrange the stitches into a Knit 2, Purl 2 configuration, this round would start to make sense while you are knitting it!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Please help me on this ribbed cap.Shape Crown. Instructions, set up round.
[ ( k1,p2,k1,) 10 times place a marker ]) 3 times,*k1,p2,k1,repeat from* to end of round
Carmen
,
Hello Carmen,
Thank you for reaching out! The pattern reads “Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker, [(k1, p2, k1) six (8, 10) times, place marker] three times, *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.” This means that after you have replaced you end of round marker you will repeat the whole sequence of [(k1, p2, k1) 10 times, place a marker ] three times and then you will repeat k1,p2,k1, until you get back to your end of round marker. I hope this answers your question and just let us know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Dear Marilla, thanks for your reply. I have read it over and over and hope that I can do this correctly. I am not quite to Shaping Crown. I will let you know how I make out. THANKYOU again
Carmen
Dear Marilla, sad to say that I am still in the dark with these instructions.!! Can you give me MORE EXPLICIT STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS. ? I am embarrassed to ask you for help so many times,I just can’t seem to get it. FYI I am a experienced knitter, so I am perplexed at my trouble. I THANK you in advance.
Carmen
Hello Carmen,
I’m always happy to further explain- never be embarrassed to ask for more details! I’m just going to write out this row step by step.
– Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker –
-(k1, p2, k1) 10 times, place marker
-(k1, p2, k1) 10 times, place marker
-(k1, p2, k1) 10 times, place marker
-(k1, p2, k1) repeat until you get to your end of round marker.
Also if there is a specific part of this row that is tripping you up let us know and we can go into further detail about that specific step.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting,
-Marilla
Marilla
Thankyou so much I have am going to try it out now, Thankyou again
Carmen
I want to knit this hat but will be using Magic Loop. Two questions: do I need to include the “set up round” and are there any adjustments I need to make?
I’m really looking forward to this project.
Thank you
Sasha
Hi Sasha,
Thanks for writing in! You won’t have to make any adjustments during the body of the hat or for most of the decreases; however, you will still need to work the Set-Up Round for the crown shaping, as this moves the beginning of the round to the left by one stitch and places the markers which will indicate where to work decreases for the rest of the crown shaping. Instead of placing a marker to indicate the new beginning of the round, I would move the “loops” of the needle each over by one stitch to the left during this round to make the next round of decreases go smoothly, but after that everything should work just fine on magic loop!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I am having a bit of difficulty in the second round of the shaping. I just finished the (4) ktog in Round 1 and I’m at k1, p2, k1. There are 3 ktog after my marker and the next stitch is a purl not a knit. What did I mess up ? Thanks!
Hi Liz,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that I see what might be happening! For round 1 of the shaping section, the 4 times refers to everything inside the brackets. I find that sometimes, writing the row out long form can help here!
Round 1 reads: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 1 EXPANDED reads: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog]. [8 stitches decreased]
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi Cassy,
I’m finishing this on Christmas as a gift and was stuck on this round — thanks so much for the explanation! You just saved Christmas!!
Can you tell me please why the hat is knitted on size 2 needle when the recommended size for this yarn is 3.5 mm? Thanks!
Hello Pam,
This is a great question! This hat is knit at a tight gauge in order to maintain the stretch of the rib stitch.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
If I am using a size US 5 needle, would I need to adjust the pattern? Or would it just be better to stick with the US 2? Thanks!
Hello Virginia,
Thank you for reaching out! Are you using our Season Alpaca to knit this hat up? If so I would stick with the US2 needle as it will keep your rib stitch tight enough. If you are thinking of using a thicker yarn you would need to adjust the pattern quite a bit if you are using a US5 needle. The first think you would need to do is knit up a gauge swatch to find out how many stitches per inch you are getting. You will be able to use this number to estimate a cast on number.
I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
My boyfriend has a very round head. Hats are often too long for him. I am making this hat and am doing adult large size but wonder how long it will be. It says finished height would be 12.25″. Does that mean from the top of the hat and drop straight down to the bottom edge or does that mean if you measure along the outer curved edge of the hat? That would help me know how to make it fit him. Thank you!
Hello Kate,
Thank you for reaching out! When measuring the height of this hat we would put the hat flat on a surface and measure from the edge of the brim to the tallest point.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Just wondering how tight this would be on a woman’s head that is exactly 22 inches. Would it be better to make the larger size or would making sure that the yarn I get has a bit of stretch be sufficient in making sure it would not be too tight? Thanks so much!!
Hello Claire,
Thank you for reaching out! Because this hat will stretch over time I would go smaller rather than larger. As long as you do a stretchy cast you should be in good shape!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi! I’m curious about the total yardage used for the projects. If I make an adult small do I need a second skein if the skein is 200Yd?
Hi Kaylyn,
Thanks for reaching out! We used about 190 yards for the adult small, so it will be close, but you should be fine with 200 yards!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi,
Can this pattern be knitted with a DK weight wool? Or will only sport weight work?
Thanks for your help,
Tash
Hi Tash,
Thanks for reaching out! You may be able to knit this pattern with a DK weight yarn; however, you will definitely need to knit a gauge swatch to see if your selected yarn can match the gauge the pattern is written for. You may find, after knitting the swatch, that even if you are able to match the gauge, you might not be happy with the resulting fabric, since knitting at that tight of a gauge will create a dense, stiff fabric. You might want to consider a different pattern, such as our Fluffy Brioche Hat, that is written for a DK weight yarn.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi there,
I’m really stuck on the shaping crown bit! I’ve done the set-up row, but now stuck!
I used double pointed needles the whole way through – as I’m making the large, I’ve got 40 stitches on each needle. So if I’ve understood it right, the set-up row essentially moves the “round” along by one stitch?
Then for round 1, instructions expanded for the first 40 stitches:
K1, p2, k1
K1, p2, k1
ssk
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
k2
Just feeling nervous because I feel like I’m purling some stitches which were previously knit on the row beneath it, and vice-versa. Thank you in advance for your help!
Hi Seelin,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help! Fear not! I think you have it mostly right! From the set-up round you have moved the pattern ahead one stitch, maintaining the k2, p2 rib but just beginning and end with a single knit stitch. Then in Round 1, you begin by
k1, p2, k1
k1, p2, k1
ssk (this will be a knit and a purl)
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
k2tog (this will be a purl and a knit stitch)
Essentially, you will be knitting the knits and purling the purls aside from the decrease stitches which will be over a purl and a knit stitch or a knit and a purl stitch!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I’m new to reading patterns! If I buy the yarn used for the pattern, do I need one or two skeins? OI’m confused by the “1 (1,2) skeins”, Thanks!
Hi Jessica,
Great question! The number of skeins listed here represent the 3 sizes that hat comes in! So for the Toddler/Kid Small or the Kid Large/Adult Small, you will need just one skein and for the Adult Large, you will need 2 skeins! You will see a similar notation as you continue on in the pattern when referring to directions for each size. For example, the cast on number is noted as 96 (128, 160). This will be 96 stitches for the Toddle/Kid Small size, 128 stitches for the Kid Large/Adult Small size and 160 stitches for the Adult Large.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello!
If I wanted to make this a 1×1 ribbing, would anything else need to change within the pattern? Thanks!
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for reaching out! Since 1×1 ribbing is a bit stretchier than 2×2 ribbing, it’s hard to say how it would affect the fit of the hat. I would suggest knitting a swatch in 1×1 ribbing to see how it compares to the gauge of 2×2 ribbing. If they are fairly similar, then you can go right ahead with the pattern! You may also want to compare your swatch to our Boyfriend Hat pattern, which is already written in 1×1 ribbing, to see if that suits your needs.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I just knit this hat for my brother and while it is beautiful and soft, it quickly stretched out to an unmanageable size. Do you think it would felt well?
Hi Liz,
Oh no, I’m sorry to hear the hat stretched out so much! Season Alpaca will felt, but I would be concerned that it might felt too well – Alpaca felts very easily and tightly, so if you don’t watch the process carefully, it could very quickly overfelt into a far too small hat. Also, felting shrinks about a third more lengthwise than knitwise, so you may find that in order to shrink to the correct circumference, the hat would then be much too short. Since felting is permanent and a bit unpredictable, I would consider unraveling the hat and starting over with needles a size or two smaller than you used before. Either way, I hope you are able to salvage the hat!
Best,
Julianna
Thanks so much for the pattern and the brilliant tutorial for the tubular cast on. I have ignored this cast on for years, thinking it was too fiddley to be bothered with. I do a modified long tail that actually produces the first round of knitting and is very stretchy. I decided to give the tubular a try and I love the look! I’m a convert and very happy to add this to my skill set.
I’m just learning about knitting gauge swatches in the round.
I’m sure you are recommending we knit a swatch in the round, and in pattern? (More preparation than I have ever done.)
(Or not make a swatch, just dive in and hope for the best?)
Hi Natalie,
Great question! For best results, yes, you should knit your swatch in the round and in pattern. Swatching in the round is really not too difficult, even with a stitch pattern thrown in, and we have full instructions in our tutorial!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I am finishing up the lovely ribbed scarf and loving it! I saw this hat pattern as a suggested matching hat. Is it possible to use the same yarn (Good Wool) that I used for the scarf, in order to match colors? I used the color Hickory Nut for the scarf.
Hello Chloe,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately Good Wool has a gauge that is to large for this hat pattern. You could try adjusting the pattern by knitting one size smaller and going up in needle size. This would take a bit of trial and error and you would need to be will to do some experimentation and math to get it right. I would also suggest that you might be able to find a ribbed hat with the appropriate gauge with a quick Raverly search.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi!
I’ve nearly completed the hat. I made the large which came out larger than I anticipated, so I am excited to knit it again in the second size.
The last two rounds of deceasing were really tough going for me! Just for the last two rounds, the k2tog were a real struggle– it was tough to get my needle into the two stitches, and would often split the yarn. Is this typical? And do you have any tips for making this easier?
Hello Natalie,
Thank you for reaching out! When you come to the top of the hat it is true that the stitches become a bit tighter. I also always find that when I get to the top of a hat the small amount of stitches makes it a bit harder to control.
Congratulations on finishing your hat- and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi,
I made this hat per the pattern, with size 2.75mm needle. It’s super lovely.
I plan to make it again with same Season Alpaca, but I am considering using a smaller needle. I will definitely knit a swatch first, but what size (or range of sizes) might you suggest, smaller than the US#2? I am just aiming for a little bit of a denser fabric.
Hello Natalie,
Thank you for reaching out! I would go to a US 2 for a denser rib stitch.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla,
Maybe there’s a misunderstanding- I did already use the US #2 (2.75mm) to make the hat, per the pattern.
So, what is a smaller needle you suggest? And how will this affect the finished size, significantly or not? I will make a gauge swatch first.
Also, would I also require more yardage with a smaller needle?
Finally, maybe a different hat pattern would be a better way to go. What would you suggest for a hat with a denser fabric?
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for reaching out! Although we think Season Alpaca looks best on a US 2 or the size that gives you the correct gauge for this hat, you could certainly try it on a smaller needle if you wish! Any change to needle size that affects the gauge will affect the finished size of the hat, so you will need to measure your gauge swatch and compare it to our gauge and cast on numbers to see what size hat you will end up with. You will also need more yarn if you knit at a tighter gauge, but I can’t really say how much since it depends on how tight your gauge turns out and whether or not you compensate for this by casting on more stitches.
If you are looking for a denser fabric, you may want to consider something like our Striped Cuff Hat. It is knit in a slip stitch pattern which creates a fabric that almost feels like it has two layers.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thanks! I hope to try the Striped Cuff Hat!
Also, what should the cast on be like- tight or loose, or just somewhere in the middle? I think when I knit this hat I cast on using a size US #3…. under the impression that cast ons are better on a size up. But I ended with a slightly floppy bottom edge.
Is there a general rule or guideline for casting on for hats?
Also, I may have knit the foundations rows with the size US #3 as well, before switching to the US#2 for the rest of the hat. Are the foundation rows considered part of the cast on?
Perhaps the cast on would be better with a smaller needle, if not the same size, for this hat (personally.)
Thanks again.
Also, I still haven’t seen email notifications for replies to my comments, unfortunately. I hope I can continue to problem solve.
Hi Natalie,
Although some people consistently cast on too tightly and need to cast on using a larger needle, if you find that results in a loose edge, it’s probably not necessary for you. The foundation rows are part of the cast on, so they should be knit with the same size needle as the cast on.
Best,
Julianna
Can you please tell me what Repeat Rounds 1-8 zero (1, 2) more time(s). [64 stitches] means.
I am knitting the small adult size. Not sure. Think it is one more time for me.
Thanks.
Hello Mary Jane,
Thank you for writing us! You are correct, for the adult small you will repeat rounds 1-8 one time.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello,
Love the pattern. I am knitting my second one.
Please can you tell me why I get a gap where I joined in the round? No matter how hard I try to avoid it, there’s about .5″ stretch of yarn where the row connects to join in the round.
When this happens I can usually tighten the join when I weave in the tail, and it looks pretty smooth, but what can I do better to avoid this?
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for reaching out! It is totally normal to have a gap in the cast on edge when joining to work in the round, and you are correct that the solution is to disguise it when weaving in your ends. You can try casting on an extra stitch and passing the last stitch of the cast on over the first stitch when joining, but I find that this can still sometimes look a bit off and it’s harder to fix when weaving in the end, so I prefer to just leave the normal gap.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello. I run a crochet/knit group in Manchester and we are starting a charity project with Hope & Story. The aim is to make hats which are sold and the profits generate meals for 5 children that might otherwise go to bed hungry. I wondered if you would be happy for us to use this pattern with the finished hats being sold? We would of course give credit to you and the pattern. Many thanks.
Hello Helen,
Thank you so much for telling us about this amazing project and for your interest in selling things you knit from our patterns! Our copyright states that our patterns can not be used to make things for sale, but as a non-profit organization, we’d like to let you know that if you change at least 25% of the pattern, you would not be infringing on copyright laws. That way your finished product would be inspired by Purl Soho but not an illegal copy. Please let us know if you have any questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi, I am interested in trying the Lovely Ribbed Hat pattern with some 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino wool I have. It is listed as 100 g, 18 sts= 4″, US 7-8. Will this yarn work for the project? How do I need to adjust the pattern and instructions? I also wondered how this had differs from the Classic Ribbed Hat. Thank you for your help. Best, Shelley
Hello Shelley,
Thank you for reaching out! The first step to figuring this out is to knit up a gauge swatch in the ribbed pattern. Depending on the gauge that you get you might be able to just knit up the toddler size.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi! I have some really gorgeous blue sky fibers sport weight yarn that is 50% alpaca and 50% silk. I would love to knit this hat, but I am worried that it wouldn’t “spring back” like a ribbed hat should and would lose its shape due to the silk content. Thoughts? If this pattern is not suitable for the yarn that I have, could you suggest another pattern? I am open to anything, not just hats- I’m at a bit of a loss for what to knit with this yarn. I have about 450 yds.
Thank you!
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! It is true that both alpaca and silk lack the natural bounciness or springiness of wool that is usually associated with hats; however, you can still make a well fitting hat that holds its shape by knitting at a tight gauge and sizing down, as we did for this hat out of 100% baby alpaca. I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch in pattern to make sure your yarn will knit up to a very firm fabric and also choosing a size with plenty of negative ease in case the hat does stretch out a bit. If you would rather try a different project, you could make a slightly smaller version of our Asymmetrical Wrap – it would be lovely in an alpaca silk blend!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I’m sort of embarrassed to be asking this, but Im at the point where I’m ready to decrease now and I realize I casted on 100 stitches, not 96, and I’m wondering how much this will affect the decrease now, if at all. I had used stitch markers to divide them into groups of 20 just for the sake of counting, but didn’t even realize my mistake until now.
thank you
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out! Fortunately, this hat works with any multiple of four stitches, so you won’t have any problems! Just make sure your markers in the set-up round for the decreases are evenly spaced with 20 stitches between each one.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Re: the previous comment- does this hat really work with any multiple of 4 stitches? (I thought it needed to be a multiple of 16 for the decreases to work out.)
The reason I ask it that I don’t know what size to knit for a 22.75″ head. It’s right between the Adult Small and Adult Large. Is there a way to customize this pattern a little?
Thanks!
Hello Natalie,
Thank you for reaching out! You are decreasing by 8 stitches for each decreases row, but you will still be able to work your decrease rows is you add just 4 stitches. You will just end with 20 stitches at the end, instead of 16.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Yes- that makes sense. And I could always try to repeat the final row an additional time, perhaps?
Hello Natalie,
Yes! You are correct.
Best,
Marilla
Hello Julianna, I’m also trying to modify the number of stitches by 4 and can’t get the math right. When setting up the decreases round, would I need to divide my work into 5 sections (20 stitches each) instead of 4 (as in the original pattern)? So each round, instead of decreasing by 8, I would be decreasing by 9? If I’m correct, in such case, after 4 rounds with decreases, I should end up with 64 stitches and 16 stitches at the end of the project. But you were mentioning, this should result in 20 stitches and I’m so confused now. Could you help? Also: how should I divide my work if I’d choose to add 8 stitches (104 in total) instead of 4. Thank you!
Hi Ana,
Thanks for reaching out! You should still set up for the decreases by dividing your work into four equal sections, so you will have 4 total markers on the needle including the beginning of round marker, and decreasing 8 total stitches on each decrease round – it might be easier to use locking stitch markers to divide the stitches evenly before knitting the decreases. Although you will be working a different number of rib stitches between the markers than we did, the decrease rows should otherwise be the same. The number of stitches you end up with will vary depending on how many you started with, but you should continue repeating Row 1 through 8 until you have either 64 or 68 stitches left, and then work the final decrease round twice, which will leave you with either 16 or 20 stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’m struggling with the set-up-round like Carmen. How many stitches should there be between markers if you are doing the small adult?
Hi Maddie,
Thanks for reaching out! The stitch markers should divide the stitches into four equal parts – for the Adult Small, there will be 32 stitches between each set of stitch markers.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Sent a question on this hat on Dec. 2 and have not received a response yet. Christmas is just around the corner🎄
Hi Maddie,
Thanks for getting back in touch! I did respond to your comment the other day – hopefully you are receiving notifications when we do! You can find your answer above!
Best,
Julianna
Hello,
Thank you for this pattern, it is so nice to work with the season alpaca! I am knitting a hat in the size adult small (cast on 128) and am worried that I may run out of yarn with 1 skein (I still have an inch to go before working the crown and my ball of yarn is getting small)! Does 1 skein consistently cover a size adult small hat?
Thanks much,
Natasha
Hi Natasha,
Thanks for reaching out! Our Adult Small sample used 186 yards, so you should have about 15 grams of yarn left when you are done. This can, however, be affected by your gauge – if your gauge is looser than ours, your hat will take more yarn (and will come out a little bigger!) I would suggest measuring your gauge on your hat so far and see if it matches our gauge of 36 stitches to 4 rows in pattern, as well as weighing the yarn you have left. The crown shaping only takes 16 rows, so you probably don’t need as much yarn as you think, but hopefully keeping an eye on how much yarn you have left by weight will help reassure you that you won’t run out!
Best,
Julianna
Can someone please expand the cast off rows? Knitting a 96 stitches so I’m not sure I’m doing it right!
Hello Vanessa,
Thank you for reaching out! Before casting off you must complete the “Shape Crown” section of the pattern. In this section you will be decreasing (example: “Round 1: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]”). After completing you this section you will have a total of 16 stitches.
I hope this answers your question. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Best,
Marilla
I have tried doing the rounds to shape the crown and just can’t seem to get it. After 7 tries is there an easier way to complete this hat. I am knitting the hats for charity and have 50 to knit so your help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Hi Kathryn,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have alternative instructions for the crown of this hat, but you could try working one round of k2tog all around so you have half as many stitches, and then threading the yarn through the remaining stitches and pulling tight. This finish will turn out more gathered at the top than ours and will also shorten the overall length of the hat, so you may want to work an extra inch or two of ribbing before finishing the hat.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
Sorry but a bit confused. With the Linen Quill Worsted it says to use US 5 needles but the link takes you through here to US 2 needles. Have I missed the adjustments somewhere, ie, stitches to cast on etc? Worried I’m going to be knitting a much bigger hat following these instructions but using US 5.
Thanks
Hi Fiona,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct – for our Linen Quill Worsted version, we did follow the pattern above exactly, including the same cast on number, but used a US 5 needle. This does make the hat come out a little bit bigger, but due to the extremely elastic nature of 2×2 rib, we found that the hats still fit the same size range quite comfortably!
Best,
Julianna
I’d like to make this hat in the round but have in the past found that when knitting ribbed hats the knitting in circular is looser than when I use the same yarn and same size straight needle. I don’t understand why there would be a difference. My sewn seams never seem to be neat so would prefer to use circular if I could get a tighter rib.
Thanks so much
Pat
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out! I suspect the issue may be due to the difference in how straight and circular needles fit in your hands. If you imagine holding a straight needle, or even a circular needle that has a long tip, the needle or tip has room for your entire hand to rest on or grip the needle. A 16″ circular needle for hats has very short tips, usually about two inches shorter than a regular circular needle, so you can’t fit all of your fingers on the needle. Depending on the size of your hands, it can almost feel like you are knitting with your finger tips, and I can definitely see this affecting your tension if you aren’t used to it! With that in mind, I think you could get back to your usual tension with some practice, but you could also try going down a needle size or two to get the correct gauge.
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, please – can you tell me which size the model is wearing? Thank-you!
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for writing in! Our model is wearing the Adult Large size.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi there.
I am knitting this in the adult large size; I have done great so far but am stuck here:
Round 1: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased],
I have gotten as far as ‘the two stitches before the next marker’ – those two stitches before the marker are one pearl and one knit stitch. That means when I k2tog, the next stitch i start with is a Pearl stitch – but I am reading the pattern as repeating the ‘*p1,k2,p1’ 4x. what did i do wrong?? thanks!
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for reaching out! After the k2tog, you will repeat the entire bracketed section, starting with (k1, p2, k1) two times. This should keep your knits and purls lined up!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’d like to make the Adult Small with this Season Alpaca yarn, but adjust the cast on by 8 stitches, so casting on 132.
What is your best guess about whether I can accomplish this with one skein?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Natalie!
We used just under 1 skein of Season Alpaca for our Adult Small sample – approximately 205 out of the 218 yards in one skein. If you increase the stitch count you could be cutting it quite close, but going for a little less length should make it possible to finish the hat with a single skein.
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
I’m having trouble following crown decreases in the pattern. When I followed the instructions, I end up decreasing five stitches every round. What am I doing wrong? Are there decreases on either side of each stitch marker?
Hi Chloé!
I think what might be confusing in the decrease instructions is the brackets. At every marker, you’ll start with the first instructions (after the bracket, “K1, p2, k1, k1, p2, k1, ssk” and then continue with the directions between the *’s until you reach the next marker. The instructions to “K1, p2, k1, k1, p2, k1, ssk” (as in Round 1) will happen after every marker, four times each round. That would account for your three missing decreases per round. I hope this helps – please reach out if you have any other questions!
Best,
Cassandra
Hi!
I would like to cast-on for this hat, but instead of the tubular cast-on method, what do you think about doing the long-tail cast-on, alternating 2 knit-wise, 2 purl-wise to match the ribbing. I’ve never tried this before, so maybe you can tell me if this would work well or not.
Thanks!
Hi Natalie!
Thanks for asking! I’ve done several versions of this hat, and always used the simple long tail cast on for it, which worked out just fine. I’d suggest a small gauge swatch to test out your idea for an alternating long tail cast on and see how you like the looks of it – it’s a great idea!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Hiya,
I’m a little confused by the instructions for setting up the decreases? What does the ‘three times’ refer to in the set up round instructions? Does this mean I need to place 3 markers and if so, how do I know where to place them?
Hi Lucie,
Thanks for reaching out! In the set-up round, after changing the position of the first stitch marker, you’ll k1, p2, k1 6 (or 8 or 10) times depending on the size you’re making, place marker, and then start the k1, p2, k1 sequence again with the number of repeats for your size, place another marker, and then do it one more time, ending with the k1, p2, k1 to the end of the round where your original stitch marker is. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Hello!
I’m on the first round of shaping and the crown and I find that once I do the ssk if I continue the pattern (starting with p1) the ribbing is now shifted over one, since the ssk was on the second stitch of a knitted rib. Should I be adding an extra purl stitch after the slip stitch?
Hi Katelyn,
Thanks for reaching out! The SSK should use up the second knit stitch of knit column of ribbing and the first purl stitch of the next purl column, so that you still have one purl stitch left to start the *p1, k2, p1* repeat and you shouldn’t have to add any extra stitches to the pattern. If you have two stitches left, it sounds like you might have placed your markers incorrectly in the set-up row for the crown shaping. If they are placed correctly, each marker should be in the middle of a knit column of the ribbing.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks so much for the response! I figured out that I misread ssk as “slip stitch knit.” Everything makes much more sense now. Thank you!
Hello PS! I’m excited to try a new cast on method but I’m confused with the foundation rows for long tail tubular cast on. Why is there a second Foundation Row 1 after you place a unique marker, should it actually be Foundation Row 3? Also, I’m confused about how to let the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle. Is this actually the third stitch? And what’s the point of letting it temporarily fall off the left needle only to put it back onto the left needle?
Foundation Round 1: *K1, knit the second stitch on the left needle letting the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle, place that fallen stitch back onto the left needle, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Hi Jackie,
Thanks for reaching out! The Foundations Rows 1 and 2 are traditional and necessary steps to working a tubular cast-on, no matter what project you will be making, and are worked back and forth in rows without joining in the round. The Foundation Round 1, however, is worked in the round, and is specific to this pattern, and rearranges the stitches of the tubular cast on, which is set up for 1×1 ribbing when worked without modification, into 2×2 ribbing. To do this step, you will skip over the first stitch on the left-hand needle and knit the second stitch, so when you slide it off the first stitch will get pushed off the tip of the needle as well. You will then place that loose stitch onto the left-hand needle, effectively swapping the positions of the first and second stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Got it, thank you Julianna! I’m off and away… 🙂