Lovely Ribbed Hat
Our Lovely Ribbed Hat may take its cue from the classic watchman cap, but you don’t have to be a stevedore to wear this perfectly constructed little head warmer!
Our version retains the soul of the ones worn on docks and decks since who-knows-when, but it has certainly dispensed with the itch. Knit up in our incredibly soft Season Alpaca, this simple hat is sumptuous and warm and wonderful on the head!
Wear your Lovely Ribbed Hat like Jacques Cousteau, neat and trim with a turned up rim, or leave it long for a more tossed-off look. It’s happy either way!
And in a 2 x2 rib, you’ll just be alternating a couple of knits with a couple of purls. If you can do that, you can make one for everyone in your life, from toddlers to adults. And it’s an ideal project to take with you anywhere… You’ll just need one skein for all but the largest size, which only takes 2!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Update: New Yarn
February 28, 2020
This particular Lovely Ribbed Hat is not only one of our most beloved and classic hat patterns, it also introduces our very newest yarn, Linen Quill Worsted (no longer available)! Read all about it here!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
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Materials
- 1 (1, 2) skeins of Purl Soho’s Season Alpaca, 100% baby alpaca yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 106 (205, 264) yards required. We used the colors Pink Taupe (Baby Fawn, Dove Gray).
- US 2 (3 mm), 16-inch circular needles (or 12-inch for Baby size)
- A set of US 2 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including 1 unique
Gauge
36 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern
Sizes
Toddler/Kid Small (Kid Large/Adult Small, Adult Large)
To fit actual head size of 14 to 16¼ (19 to 22, 23½ to 27¼) inches
- Finished Circumference (unstretched): 10¾ (14¼, 17¾) inches
- Finished Height: 7¾ (11, 12¼) inches
Samples: The Pink Taupe hat is the Toddler/Kid Small size, the Baby Fawn hat is the Kid Large/Adult Small size, and the Dove Gray hat (modeled) is the Adult Large size.
Pattern
Begin At Bottom Edge
Cast 96 (128, 160) stitches onto circular needles. We used a Long Tail Tubular Cast On, because it’s nice and stretchy, but a basic Long Tail Cast On would also be beautiful (and less complicated!)
If you used a Long Tail Tubular Cast On…
Foundation Row 1: *Knit 1 through the back loop, slip one purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to end of row.
Foundation Row 2: *K1, slip 1 purlwise wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Place a unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Foundation Round 3: *K1, knit the second stitch on the left needle letting the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle, place that fallen stitch back onto the left needle, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
If you used a Long Tail Cast On…
Place a unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Continue In 2 x 2 Rib
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 6½ (8¾, 9) inches from cast-on edge.
Shape Crown
NOTE: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker, [(k1, p2, k1) 6 (8, 10) times, place marker] 3 times, *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 1: [(K1, p2, k1) 2 times, slip slip knit (ssk), *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, knit two together (k2tog)] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 2: [(K1, p2, k1) 2 times, k1, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1] 4 times.
Round 3: [(K1, p2, k1) 2 times, ssk, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2, k2tog] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 4: [(K1, p2, k1) 2 times, k3, *p2, k2, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1] 4 times.
Round 5: [(K1, p2, k1) 2 times, ssk, *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 6: [(K1, p2, k1) 2 times, *k2, p2, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2] 4 times.
Round 7: [(K1, p2, k1) 2 times, ssk, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches before next marker, p2, k2tog] 4 times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 8: *K1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1-8 zero (1, 2) more time(s). [64 stitches]
Next Round: *Ssk, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. [32 stitches]
Repeat last round. [16 stitches]
Cut yarn and thread tail onto a tapestry needle. Draw needle through remaining stitches, pull taut, and bring tail to inside of hat to weave in.
Finish
Weave in remaining ends and block as desired.
LEARN ABOUT SEASON ALPACA + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Season Alpaca always brings deep beauty to your hand-knits. Made of 100% super baby alpaca, the most special grade of Peruvian alpaca there is, this sport-weight yarn is incredibly soft, and with its long fibers and many fine plies, it also creates smooth stockinette and lovely stitch definition. Prepare to knit with your new favorite alpaca yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Season Alpaca knitting patterns and cast on!
More Sport-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of sport-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop alpaca yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Can I do this on straight needles ?
Hi Dienie,
Thanks for reaching out! The instructions for this hat are only available written in the round. However, we do have another hat that uses this lovely yarn that is knit flat and can be made on straight needles. Our Four Spokes Hat may work well for you!
Best,
Cassy
It seems to me that any pattern in the round can be knitted with straight double-point needles. But, maybe there is fiddliness when using them over the circular needles.
Hi Jayne,
You are correct! Just about any pattern written in the round can be knit using double pointed needles instead! For this pattern and for most hat patterns, DPNs work well just so long as they are long enough! Generally speaking, we find that straight needles refer to straight single pointed needles and the pattern being knit flat and seemed. While you certainly can alter a hat pattern to be knit flat, it does take a fair bit of work!
Best,
Cassy
Hi Dienie,
Thanks for your question! It is possible to knit this hat on straight needles but it will require some slight pattern adjusting! I would recommend casting on 2 extra stitches, 1 at each edge, to have as a selvedge to be seamed up later. The only difference is that there is a right side and a wrong side when knitting flat.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Hello! What size yarn is this? Could I use “A Touch of Alpaca” from LionBrandYarn? http://www.lionbrand.com/touch-of-alpaca.html
Thanks
Hi Sophie,
Thanks for reaching out! The Season Alpaca that we used for this lovely hat has a gauge of 6-7 stitches per inch and it looks as though the yarn that you are hoping to use has a gauge of 4.75 which is a good deal thicker. I think that, with this in mind, it would not make a good substitute here. If you would like to use an alternate yarn, I would suggest looking for a yarn with a gauge of 6-7 inches per inch!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Very helpful! Thank you for responding 🙂
Hi
Question. Doesn’t the pattern say that the gauge is 36 st=9 per inch? but just above in this comment it says 6-7 st per inch? I tool was looking to use up some worsted twist I have from purl soho to make a cute pompom hat. I better wait until I hear back! Thanks.
Hi abbe,
Thanks for writing in! I can help! For this lovely pattern, the gauge is 36 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern. The ribbed pattern pulls in quite a bit and the given gauge (which is in stockinette) of a yarn will differ quite a bit from the gauge in pattern. So here, Season Alpaca has a stated gauge of 6 to 7 stitches per inch but in the ribbed pattern, it has a gauge of 9 stitches per inch. With that in mind, if you would like to use an alternate yarn you will be looking for a yarn with a stated gauge of 6 to 7 stitches per inch.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This pattern ticks all boxes and the colours used are very different – and I just LOVE that 🙂
This looks like a perfect hospital hat for a newborn! If I wanted to make it a bit smaller than the toddler size what cast on number would you suggest?
Hi Kiomi,
I agree, our Season Alpaca would be so snuggly and soft for a newborn! The next smallest cast on that the pattern would work with is 80 stitches which is a big jump down; however, I think the toddler size could fit a newborn with plenty of room to grow. Ribbing is very stretchy by nature, and the toddler size unstretched measures 10 3/4″ which is not too far off from an average newborn’s head. You could also try working the hat on US 1 needles for a bit tighter gauge to shrink the hat a bit.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Can this hat be knit up in understory? I realize understory is thicker, but would you happen to know how many stitches of understory would be needed to cast on for an adult small hat ? I have 3/4 or more of a skein left over from another project.
Thanks!
Hi Alice,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately that is quite a big jump in gauge, and we are not able to alter patterns that require gauge for fit in the comment section. We don’t have any hats quite like the Lovely Ribbed Hat written in the correct gauge for Understory, but I would recommend taking a look at our Travelling Cable Hat, either as an option to use up your yarn, or as a jumping off point for modifying the Lovely Ribbed Hat pattern!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello, I love all your patterns. I don’t understand, why is there two different instructions for foundation row 1? Thank you,
Hello Emilsen,
Thank you for reaching out! This lovely hat pattern has to options for casting on so the foundation row correspond to whichever cast on method you choose to use, the long tail tubular cast, or the long tail cast on.
I hope this clears things up for you and happy knitting!
Marilla
Hi! I just had this question too and it looks like the instructions for Foundation Row #1 for the Long Tail Cast On might be under the heading for the Long Tail Tubular Cast On, along with the instructions for that technique. I don’t know if its possible to edit that section, but in case anyone else comes along this issue, my comment is here for you!
Hi guys thanks for your neverending inspirations!
I’m having some trouble understanding this part – could you possibly clarify?? THANKS!!
Foundation Round 1: *K1, knit the second stitch on the left needle letting the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle, place that fallen stitch back onto the left needle, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Hi Judy,
Great question! A Tubular Cast On creates a Knit 1, Purl 1 ribbed edging. The Lovely Ribbed Hat, however, is worked in Knit 2, Purl 2 ribbing, and this extra step moves the knit and purl stitches to be next to each other so that the cast on edge will line up with the ribbing. It is a bit confusing to read, but I think if you tried it out and kept in mind that the goal is to rearrange the stitches into a Knit 2, Purl 2 configuration, this round would start to make sense while you are knitting it!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Please help me on this ribbed cap.Shape Crown. Instructions, set up round.
[ ( k1,p2,k1,) 10 times place a marker ]) 3 times,*k1,p2,k1,repeat from* to end of round
Carmen
,
Hello Carmen,
Thank you for reaching out! The pattern reads “Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker, [(k1, p2, k1) six (8, 10) times, place marker] three times, *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.” This means that after you have replaced you end of round marker you will repeat the whole sequence of [(k1, p2, k1) 10 times, place a marker ] three times and then you will repeat k1,p2,k1, until you get back to your end of round marker. I hope this answers your question and just let us know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Dear Marilla, thanks for your reply. I have read it over and over and hope that I can do this correctly. I am not quite to Shaping Crown. I will let you know how I make out. THANKYOU again
Carmen
Dear Marilla, sad to say that I am still in the dark with these instructions.!! Can you give me MORE EXPLICIT STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS. ? I am embarrassed to ask you for help so many times,I just can’t seem to get it. FYI I am a experienced knitter, so I am perplexed at my trouble. I THANK you in advance.
Carmen
Hello Carmen,
I’m always happy to further explain- never be embarrassed to ask for more details! I’m just going to write out this row step by step.
– Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker –
-(k1, p2, k1) 10 times, place marker
-(k1, p2, k1) 10 times, place marker
-(k1, p2, k1) 10 times, place marker
-(k1, p2, k1) repeat until you get to your end of round marker.
Also if there is a specific part of this row that is tripping you up let us know and we can go into further detail about that specific step.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting,
-Marilla
Marilla
Thankyou so much I have am going to try it out now, Thankyou again
Carmen
I want to knit this hat but will be using Magic Loop. Two questions: do I need to include the “set up round” and are there any adjustments I need to make?
I’m really looking forward to this project.
Thank you
Sasha
Hi Sasha,
Thanks for writing in! You won’t have to make any adjustments during the body of the hat or for most of the decreases; however, you will still need to work the Set-Up Round for the crown shaping, as this moves the beginning of the round to the left by one stitch and places the markers which will indicate where to work decreases for the rest of the crown shaping. Instead of placing a marker to indicate the new beginning of the round, I would move the “loops” of the needle each over by one stitch to the left during this round to make the next round of decreases go smoothly, but after that everything should work just fine on magic loop!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I am having a bit of difficulty in the second round of the shaping. I just finished the (4) ktog in Round 1 and I’m at k1, p2, k1. There are 3 ktog after my marker and the next stitch is a purl not a knit. What did I mess up ? Thanks!
Hi Liz,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that I see what might be happening! For round 1 of the shaping section, the 4 times refers to everything inside the brackets. I find that sometimes, writing the row out long form can help here!
Round 1 reads: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 1 EXPANDED reads: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog]. [8 stitches decreased]
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi Cassy,
I’m finishing this on Christmas as a gift and was stuck on this round — thanks so much for the explanation! You just saved Christmas!!
Can you tell me please why the hat is knitted on size 2 needle when the recommended size for this yarn is 3.5 mm? Thanks!
Hello Pam,
This is a great question! This hat is knit at a tight gauge in order to maintain the stretch of the rib stitch.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
If I am using a size US 5 needle, would I need to adjust the pattern? Or would it just be better to stick with the US 2? Thanks!
Hello Virginia,
Thank you for reaching out! Are you using our Season Alpaca to knit this hat up? If so I would stick with the US2 needle as it will keep your rib stitch tight enough. If you are thinking of using a thicker yarn you would need to adjust the pattern quite a bit if you are using a US5 needle. The first think you would need to do is knit up a gauge swatch to find out how many stitches per inch you are getting. You will be able to use this number to estimate a cast on number.
I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
My boyfriend has a very round head. Hats are often too long for him. I am making this hat and am doing adult large size but wonder how long it will be. It says finished height would be 12.25″. Does that mean from the top of the hat and drop straight down to the bottom edge or does that mean if you measure along the outer curved edge of the hat? That would help me know how to make it fit him. Thank you!
Hello Kate,
Thank you for reaching out! When measuring the height of this hat we would put the hat flat on a surface and measure from the edge of the brim to the tallest point.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Just wondering how tight this would be on a woman’s head that is exactly 22 inches. Would it be better to make the larger size or would making sure that the yarn I get has a bit of stretch be sufficient in making sure it would not be too tight? Thanks so much!!
Hello Claire,
Thank you for reaching out! Because this hat will stretch over time I would go smaller rather than larger. As long as you do a stretchy cast you should be in good shape!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi! I’m curious about the total yardage used for the projects. If I make an adult small do I need a second skein if the skein is 200Yd?
Hi Kaylyn,
Thanks for reaching out! We used about 190 yards for the adult small, so it will be close, but you should be fine with 200 yards!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi,
Can this pattern be knitted with a DK weight wool? Or will only sport weight work?
Thanks for your help,
Tash
Hi Tash,
Thanks for reaching out! You may be able to knit this pattern with a DK weight yarn; however, you will definitely need to knit a gauge swatch to see if your selected yarn can match the gauge the pattern is written for. You may find, after knitting the swatch, that even if you are able to match the gauge, you might not be happy with the resulting fabric, since knitting at that tight of a gauge will create a dense, stiff fabric. You might want to consider a different pattern, such as our Fluffy Brioche Hat, that is written for a DK weight yarn.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi there,
I’m really stuck on the shaping crown bit! I’ve done the set-up row, but now stuck!
I used double pointed needles the whole way through – as I’m making the large, I’ve got 40 stitches on each needle. So if I’ve understood it right, the set-up row essentially moves the “round” along by one stitch?
Then for round 1, instructions expanded for the first 40 stitches:
K1, p2, k1
K1, p2, k1
ssk
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
k2
Just feeling nervous because I feel like I’m purling some stitches which were previously knit on the row beneath it, and vice-versa. Thank you in advance for your help!
Hi Seelin,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help! Fear not! I think you have it mostly right! From the set-up round you have moved the pattern ahead one stitch, maintaining the k2, p2 rib but just beginning and end with a single knit stitch. Then in Round 1, you begin by
k1, p2, k1
k1, p2, k1
ssk (this will be a knit and a purl)
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
p1, k2, p1
k2tog (this will be a purl and a knit stitch)
Essentially, you will be knitting the knits and purling the purls aside from the decrease stitches which will be over a purl and a knit stitch or a knit and a purl stitch!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I’m new to reading patterns! If I buy the yarn used for the pattern, do I need one or two skeins? OI’m confused by the “1 (1,2) skeins”, Thanks!
Hi Jessica,
Great question! The number of skeins listed here represent the 3 sizes that hat comes in! So for the Toddler/Kid Small or the Kid Large/Adult Small, you will need just one skein and for the Adult Large, you will need 2 skeins! You will see a similar notation as you continue on in the pattern when referring to directions for each size. For example, the cast on number is noted as 96 (128, 160). This will be 96 stitches for the Toddle/Kid Small size, 128 stitches for the Kid Large/Adult Small size and 160 stitches for the Adult Large.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello!
If I wanted to make this a 1×1 ribbing, would anything else need to change within the pattern? Thanks!
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for reaching out! Since 1×1 ribbing is a bit stretchier than 2×2 ribbing, it’s hard to say how it would affect the fit of the hat. I would suggest knitting a swatch in 1×1 ribbing to see how it compares to the gauge of 2×2 ribbing. If they are fairly similar, then you can go right ahead with the pattern! You may also want to compare your swatch to our Boyfriend Hat pattern, which is already written in 1×1 ribbing, to see if that suits your needs.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I just knit this hat for my brother and while it is beautiful and soft, it quickly stretched out to an unmanageable size. Do you think it would felt well?
Hi Liz,
Oh no, I’m sorry to hear the hat stretched out so much! Season Alpaca will felt, but I would be concerned that it might felt too well – Alpaca felts very easily and tightly, so if you don’t watch the process carefully, it could very quickly overfelt into a far too small hat. Also, felting shrinks about a third more lengthwise than knitwise, so you may find that in order to shrink to the correct circumference, the hat would then be much too short. Since felting is permanent and a bit unpredictable, I would consider unraveling the hat and starting over with needles a size or two smaller than you used before. Either way, I hope you are able to salvage the hat!
Best,
Julianna
Thanks so much for the pattern and the brilliant tutorial for the tubular cast on. I have ignored this cast on for years, thinking it was too fiddley to be bothered with. I do a modified long tail that actually produces the first round of knitting and is very stretchy. I decided to give the tubular a try and I love the look! I’m a convert and very happy to add this to my skill set.
I’m just learning about knitting gauge swatches in the round.
I’m sure you are recommending we knit a swatch in the round, and in pattern? (More preparation than I have ever done.)
(Or not make a swatch, just dive in and hope for the best?)
Hi Natalie,
Great question! For best results, yes, you should knit your swatch in the round and in pattern. Swatching in the round is really not too difficult, even with a stitch pattern thrown in, and we have full instructions in our tutorial!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I am finishing up the lovely ribbed scarf and loving it! I saw this hat pattern as a suggested matching hat. Is it possible to use the same yarn (Good Wool) that I used for the scarf, in order to match colors? I used the color Hickory Nut for the scarf.
Hello Chloe,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately Good Wool has a gauge that is to large for this hat pattern. You could try adjusting the pattern by knitting one size smaller and going up in needle size. This would take a bit of trial and error and you would need to be will to do some experimentation and math to get it right. I would also suggest that you might be able to find a ribbed hat with the appropriate gauge with a quick Raverly search.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi!
I’ve nearly completed the hat. I made the large which came out larger than I anticipated, so I am excited to knit it again in the second size.
The last two rounds of deceasing were really tough going for me! Just for the last two rounds, the k2tog were a real struggle– it was tough to get my needle into the two stitches, and would often split the yarn. Is this typical? And do you have any tips for making this easier?
Hello Natalie,
Thank you for reaching out! When you come to the top of the hat it is true that the stitches become a bit tighter. I also always find that when I get to the top of a hat the small amount of stitches makes it a bit harder to control.
Congratulations on finishing your hat- and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi,
I made this hat per the pattern, with size 2.75mm needle. It’s super lovely.
I plan to make it again with same Season Alpaca, but I am considering using a smaller needle. I will definitely knit a swatch first, but what size (or range of sizes) might you suggest, smaller than the US#2? I am just aiming for a little bit of a denser fabric.
Hello Natalie,
Thank you for reaching out! I would go to a US 2 for a denser rib stitch.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla,
Maybe there’s a misunderstanding- I did already use the US #2 (2.75mm) to make the hat, per the pattern.
So, what is a smaller needle you suggest? And how will this affect the finished size, significantly or not? I will make a gauge swatch first.
Also, would I also require more yardage with a smaller needle?
Finally, maybe a different hat pattern would be a better way to go. What would you suggest for a hat with a denser fabric?
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for reaching out! Although we think Season Alpaca looks best on a US 2 or the size that gives you the correct gauge for this hat, you could certainly try it on a smaller needle if you wish! Any change to needle size that affects the gauge will affect the finished size of the hat, so you will need to measure your gauge swatch and compare it to our gauge and cast on numbers to see what size hat you will end up with. You will also need more yarn if you knit at a tighter gauge, but I can’t really say how much since it depends on how tight your gauge turns out and whether or not you compensate for this by casting on more stitches.
If you are looking for a denser fabric, you may want to consider something like our Striped Cuff Hat. It is knit in a slip stitch pattern which creates a fabric that almost feels like it has two layers.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thanks! I hope to try the Striped Cuff Hat!
Also, what should the cast on be like- tight or loose, or just somewhere in the middle? I think when I knit this hat I cast on using a size US #3…. under the impression that cast ons are better on a size up. But I ended with a slightly floppy bottom edge.
Is there a general rule or guideline for casting on for hats?
Also, I may have knit the foundations rows with the size US #3 as well, before switching to the US#2 for the rest of the hat. Are the foundation rows considered part of the cast on?
Perhaps the cast on would be better with a smaller needle, if not the same size, for this hat (personally.)
Thanks again.
Also, I still haven’t seen email notifications for replies to my comments, unfortunately. I hope I can continue to problem solve.
Hi Natalie,
Although some people consistently cast on too tightly and need to cast on using a larger needle, if you find that results in a loose edge, it’s probably not necessary for you. The foundation rows are part of the cast on, so they should be knit with the same size needle as the cast on.
Best,
Julianna
Can you please tell me what Repeat Rounds 1-8 zero (1, 2) more time(s). [64 stitches] means.
I am knitting the small adult size. Not sure. Think it is one more time for me.
Thanks.
Hello Mary Jane,
Thank you for writing us! You are correct, for the adult small you will repeat rounds 1-8 one time.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello,
Love the pattern. I am knitting my second one.
Please can you tell me why I get a gap where I joined in the round? No matter how hard I try to avoid it, there’s about .5″ stretch of yarn where the row connects to join in the round.
When this happens I can usually tighten the join when I weave in the tail, and it looks pretty smooth, but what can I do better to avoid this?
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for reaching out! It is totally normal to have a gap in the cast on edge when joining to work in the round, and you are correct that the solution is to disguise it when weaving in your ends. You can try casting on an extra stitch and passing the last stitch of the cast on over the first stitch when joining, but I find that this can still sometimes look a bit off and it’s harder to fix when weaving in the end, so I prefer to just leave the normal gap.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello. I run a crochet/knit group in Manchester and we are starting a charity project with Hope & Story. The aim is to make hats which are sold and the profits generate meals for 5 children that might otherwise go to bed hungry. I wondered if you would be happy for us to use this pattern with the finished hats being sold? We would of course give credit to you and the pattern. Many thanks.
Hello Helen,
Thank you so much for telling us about this amazing project and for your interest in selling things you knit from our patterns! Our copyright states that our patterns can not be used to make things for sale, but as a non-profit organization, we’d like to let you know that if you change at least 25% of the pattern, you would not be infringing on copyright laws. That way your finished product would be inspired by Purl Soho but not an illegal copy. Please let us know if you have any questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi, I am interested in trying the Lovely Ribbed Hat pattern with some 100% Superwash Extrafine Merino wool I have. It is listed as 100 g, 18 sts= 4″, US 7-8. Will this yarn work for the project? How do I need to adjust the pattern and instructions? I also wondered how this had differs from the Classic Ribbed Hat. Thank you for your help. Best, Shelley
Hello Shelley,
Thank you for reaching out! The first step to figuring this out is to knit up a gauge swatch in the ribbed pattern. Depending on the gauge that you get you might be able to just knit up the toddler size.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi! I have some really gorgeous blue sky fibers sport weight yarn that is 50% alpaca and 50% silk. I would love to knit this hat, but I am worried that it wouldn’t “spring back” like a ribbed hat should and would lose its shape due to the silk content. Thoughts? If this pattern is not suitable for the yarn that I have, could you suggest another pattern? I am open to anything, not just hats- I’m at a bit of a loss for what to knit with this yarn. I have about 450 yds.
Thank you!
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! It is true that both alpaca and silk lack the natural bounciness or springiness of wool that is usually associated with hats; however, you can still make a well fitting hat that holds its shape by knitting at a tight gauge and sizing down, as we did for this hat out of 100% baby alpaca. I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch in pattern to make sure your yarn will knit up to a very firm fabric and also choosing a size with plenty of negative ease in case the hat does stretch out a bit. If you would rather try a different project, you could make a slightly smaller version of our Asymmetrical Wrap – it would be lovely in an alpaca silk blend!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I’m sort of embarrassed to be asking this, but Im at the point where I’m ready to decrease now and I realize I casted on 100 stitches, not 96, and I’m wondering how much this will affect the decrease now, if at all. I had used stitch markers to divide them into groups of 20 just for the sake of counting, but didn’t even realize my mistake until now.
thank you
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out! Fortunately, this hat works with any multiple of four stitches, so you won’t have any problems! Just make sure your markers in the set-up round for the decreases are evenly spaced with 20 stitches between each one.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Re: the previous comment- does this hat really work with any multiple of 4 stitches? (I thought it needed to be a multiple of 16 for the decreases to work out.)
The reason I ask it that I don’t know what size to knit for a 22.75″ head. It’s right between the Adult Small and Adult Large. Is there a way to customize this pattern a little?
Thanks!
Hello Natalie,
Thank you for reaching out! You are decreasing by 8 stitches for each decreases row, but you will still be able to work your decrease rows is you add just 4 stitches. You will just end with 20 stitches at the end, instead of 16.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Yes- that makes sense. And I could always try to repeat the final row an additional time, perhaps?
Hello Natalie,
Yes! You are correct.
Best,
Marilla
Hello Julianna, I’m also trying to modify the number of stitches by 4 and can’t get the math right. When setting up the decreases round, would I need to divide my work into 5 sections (20 stitches each) instead of 4 (as in the original pattern)? So each round, instead of decreasing by 8, I would be decreasing by 9? If I’m correct, in such case, after 4 rounds with decreases, I should end up with 64 stitches and 16 stitches at the end of the project. But you were mentioning, this should result in 20 stitches and I’m so confused now. Could you help? Also: how should I divide my work if I’d choose to add 8 stitches (104 in total) instead of 4. Thank you!
Hi Ana,
Thanks for reaching out! You should still set up for the decreases by dividing your work into four equal sections, so you will have 4 total markers on the needle including the beginning of round marker, and decreasing 8 total stitches on each decrease round – it might be easier to use locking stitch markers to divide the stitches evenly before knitting the decreases. Although you will be working a different number of rib stitches between the markers than we did, the decrease rows should otherwise be the same. The number of stitches you end up with will vary depending on how many you started with, but you should continue repeating Row 1 through 8 until you have either 64 or 68 stitches left, and then work the final decrease round twice, which will leave you with either 16 or 20 stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’m struggling with the set-up-round like Carmen. How many stitches should there be between markers if you are doing the small adult?
Hi Maddie,
Thanks for reaching out! The stitch markers should divide the stitches into four equal parts – for the Adult Small, there will be 32 stitches between each set of stitch markers.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Sent a question on this hat on Dec. 2 and have not received a response yet. Christmas is just around the corner?
Hi Maddie,
Thanks for getting back in touch! I did respond to your comment the other day – hopefully you are receiving notifications when we do! You can find your answer above!
Best,
Julianna
Hello,
Thank you for this pattern, it is so nice to work with the season alpaca! I am knitting a hat in the size adult small (cast on 128) and am worried that I may run out of yarn with 1 skein (I still have an inch to go before working the crown and my ball of yarn is getting small)! Does 1 skein consistently cover a size adult small hat?
Thanks much,
Natasha
Hi Natasha,
Thanks for reaching out! Our Adult Small sample used 186 yards, so you should have about 15 grams of yarn left when you are done. This can, however, be affected by your gauge – if your gauge is looser than ours, your hat will take more yarn (and will come out a little bigger!) I would suggest measuring your gauge on your hat so far and see if it matches our gauge of 36 stitches to 4 rows in pattern, as well as weighing the yarn you have left. The crown shaping only takes 16 rows, so you probably don’t need as much yarn as you think, but hopefully keeping an eye on how much yarn you have left by weight will help reassure you that you won’t run out!
Best,
Julianna
Can someone please expand the cast off rows? Knitting a 96 stitches so I’m not sure I’m doing it right!
Hello Vanessa,
Thank you for reaching out! Before casting off you must complete the “Shape Crown” section of the pattern. In this section you will be decreasing (example: “Round 1: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]”). After completing you this section you will have a total of 16 stitches.
I hope this answers your question. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Best,
Marilla
I have tried doing the rounds to shape the crown and just can’t seem to get it. After 7 tries is there an easier way to complete this hat. I am knitting the hats for charity and have 50 to knit so your help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Hi Kathryn,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have alternative instructions for the crown of this hat, but you could try working one round of k2tog all around so you have half as many stitches, and then threading the yarn through the remaining stitches and pulling tight. This finish will turn out more gathered at the top than ours and will also shorten the overall length of the hat, so you may want to work an extra inch or two of ribbing before finishing the hat.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
Sorry but a bit confused. With the Linen Quill Worsted it says to use US 5 needles but the link takes you through here to US 2 needles. Have I missed the adjustments somewhere, ie, stitches to cast on etc? Worried I’m going to be knitting a much bigger hat following these instructions but using US 5.
Thanks
Hi Fiona,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct – for our Linen Quill Worsted version, we did follow the pattern above exactly, including the same cast on number, but used a US 5 needle. This does make the hat come out a little bit bigger, but due to the extremely elastic nature of 2×2 rib, we found that the hats still fit the same size range quite comfortably!
Best,
Julianna
I’d like to make this hat in the round but have in the past found that when knitting ribbed hats the knitting in circular is looser than when I use the same yarn and same size straight needle. I don’t understand why there would be a difference. My sewn seams never seem to be neat so would prefer to use circular if I could get a tighter rib.
Thanks so much
Pat
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out! I suspect the issue may be due to the difference in how straight and circular needles fit in your hands. If you imagine holding a straight needle, or even a circular needle that has a long tip, the needle or tip has room for your entire hand to rest on or grip the needle. A 16″ circular needle for hats has very short tips, usually about two inches shorter than a regular circular needle, so you can’t fit all of your fingers on the needle. Depending on the size of your hands, it can almost feel like you are knitting with your finger tips, and I can definitely see this affecting your tension if you aren’t used to it! With that in mind, I think you could get back to your usual tension with some practice, but you could also try going down a needle size or two to get the correct gauge.
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, please – can you tell me which size the model is wearing? Thank-you!
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for writing in! Our model is wearing the Adult Large size.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi there.
I am knitting this in the adult large size; I have done great so far but am stuck here:
Round 1: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased],
I have gotten as far as ‘the two stitches before the next marker’ – those two stitches before the marker are one pearl and one knit stitch. That means when I k2tog, the next stitch i start with is a Pearl stitch – but I am reading the pattern as repeating the ‘*p1,k2,p1’ 4x. what did i do wrong?? thanks!
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for reaching out! After the k2tog, you will repeat the entire bracketed section, starting with (k1, p2, k1) two times. This should keep your knits and purls lined up!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’d like to make the Adult Small with this Season Alpaca yarn, but adjust the cast on by 8 stitches, so casting on 132.
What is your best guess about whether I can accomplish this with one skein?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Natalie!
We used just under 1 skein of Season Alpaca for our Adult Small sample – approximately 205 out of the 218 yards in one skein. If you increase the stitch count you could be cutting it quite close, but going for a little less length should make it possible to finish the hat with a single skein.
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
I’m having trouble following crown decreases in the pattern. When I followed the instructions, I end up decreasing five stitches every round. What am I doing wrong? Are there decreases on either side of each stitch marker?
Hi Chloé!
I think what might be confusing in the decrease instructions is the brackets. At every marker, you’ll start with the first instructions (after the bracket, “K1, p2, k1, k1, p2, k1, ssk” and then continue with the directions between the *’s until you reach the next marker. The instructions to “K1, p2, k1, k1, p2, k1, ssk” (as in Round 1) will happen after every marker, four times each round. That would account for your three missing decreases per round. I hope this helps – please reach out if you have any other questions!
Best,
Cassandra
Hi!
I would like to cast-on for this hat, but instead of the tubular cast-on method, what do you think about doing the long-tail cast-on, alternating 2 knit-wise, 2 purl-wise to match the ribbing. I’ve never tried this before, so maybe you can tell me if this would work well or not.
Thanks!
Hi Natalie!
Thanks for asking! I’ve done several versions of this hat, and always used the simple long tail cast on for it, which worked out just fine. I’d suggest a small gauge swatch to test out your idea for an alternating long tail cast on and see how you like the looks of it – it’s a great idea!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Hiya,
I’m a little confused by the instructions for setting up the decreases? What does the ‘three times’ refer to in the set up round instructions? Does this mean I need to place 3 markers and if so, how do I know where to place them?
Hi Lucie,
Thanks for reaching out! In the set-up round, after changing the position of the first stitch marker, you’ll k1, p2, k1 6 (or 8 or 10) times depending on the size you’re making, place marker, and then start the k1, p2, k1 sequence again with the number of repeats for your size, place another marker, and then do it one more time, ending with the k1, p2, k1 to the end of the round where your original stitch marker is. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Hello!
I’m on the first round of shaping and the crown and I find that once I do the ssk if I continue the pattern (starting with p1) the ribbing is now shifted over one, since the ssk was on the second stitch of a knitted rib. Should I be adding an extra purl stitch after the slip stitch?
Hi Katelyn,
Thanks for reaching out! The SSK should use up the second knit stitch of knit column of ribbing and the first purl stitch of the next purl column, so that you still have one purl stitch left to start the *p1, k2, p1* repeat and you shouldn’t have to add any extra stitches to the pattern. If you have two stitches left, it sounds like you might have placed your markers incorrectly in the set-up row for the crown shaping. If they are placed correctly, each marker should be in the middle of a knit column of the ribbing.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks so much for the response! I figured out that I misread ssk as “slip stitch knit.” Everything makes much more sense now. Thank you!
Hello PS! I’m excited to try a new cast on method but I’m confused with the foundation rows for long tail tubular cast on. Why is there a second Foundation Row 1 after you place a unique marker, should it actually be Foundation Row 3? Also, I’m confused about how to let the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle. Is this actually the third stitch? And what’s the point of letting it temporarily fall off the left needle only to put it back onto the left needle?
Foundation Round 1: *K1, knit the second stitch on the left needle letting the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle, place that fallen stitch back onto the left needle, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Hi Jackie,
Thanks for reaching out! The Foundations Rows 1 and 2 are traditional and necessary steps to working a tubular cast-on, no matter what project you will be making, and are worked back and forth in rows without joining in the round. The Foundation Round 1, however, is worked in the round, and is specific to this pattern, and rearranges the stitches of the tubular cast on, which is set up for 1×1 ribbing when worked without modification, into 2×2 ribbing. To do this step, you will skip over the first stitch on the left-hand needle and knit the second stitch, so when you slide it off the first stitch will get pushed off the tip of the needle as well. You will then place that loose stitch onto the left-hand needle, effectively swapping the positions of the first and second stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Got it, thank you Julianna! I’m off and away… 🙂
I LOVED alpaca pure. I realize season alpaca is a different weight, but how do the two compare in softness, micron fiber diameter, ply, etc?
Hi Christine,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid we no longer have all those specifications of Alpaca Pure available, but I have worked with both yarns and am happy to compare them for you! Both Season Alpaca and Alpaca Pure are spun from baby alpaca fibers, so they have the same buttery silky softness and drape. Alpaca Pure, however, was a two-ply yarn, which creates a more textured and slightly irregular surface, while Season Alpaca is spun from eight very fine plies, so it creates a much smoother surface in plain stitches like stockinette, and has somewhat crisper stitch definition in more complex stitches. I really love both yarns, so I think you will, too!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love this classic look! Can it be adapted for stockinette?
Hi Vanessa,
Thanks for writing in! You could adapt this pattern to be in stockinette but it would change the gauge a bit so I would recommend doing a gauge swatch and adjusting the pattern from there! Out All About Gauge tutorial is an excellent resource!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I am nearly finished knitting this hat and am planning on wet blocking it, since that is how I finished the gauge swatch. This is the first hat I’ve ever knit (yay!) so I’m wondering-should I fold up the bottom when wet and let it dry that way or should I just let it dry unfolded? Do you recommend letting it dry over a bowl or balloon or keeping it flat and shifting every so often so it dries evenly? Thank you for your help and all the beautiful free patterns!!
Hi Lilli,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I would recommend blocking the hat with the brim folded (it will help with a more crisp edge) and letting it dry flat!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gianna
I’m having trouble with the first decrease round. During the setup row the markers are all placed in between the k2. (Knit, marker, knit)
When I get to the first k2tog I am stopping two stitches before the marker. Which are “Knit, Marker, Knit, Purl” <- if i were to k2tog those two stitches before the marker, the next stitch is a knit not a purl 🤔 what have I done wrong?
I have 128 sts and I've checked and re-checked the set-up round. The unique center marker is moved over and the additional markers were placed evenly after working 8 sets of k1, p2, k1
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! After you place your markers during the set up round, the stitches before the marker should be P,P,K. You won’t include your marker as a stitch but rather work the stitches between the markers. After you have worked the first increase round, your stitches before the marker should now be K,P,K(this last knit is where you worked the k2tog)! I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello! This pattern looks absolutely beautiful. Knitting novice here so apologies if this is a basic question, but if I wanted to knit this up in 1×1 rib instead (similar to your best friend hat) for an adult, would I need to change the number of stitches I cast on? Or would 160 still suffice? I know that some patterns significantly increase/decrease the stretchiness of the hat, so I don’t want to accidentally make it too small by using 1×1 rib. Thank you so much!
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for reaching out! That is a great question, there may be a bit of change in the overall stretch of the hat but I don’t think it will be significant enough to overwhelming change the size. I would recommend working a gauge swatch with 1×1 rib and comparing it to the stitches per inch of the 2×2 rib in this pattern and then you can asses if you will need to alter the cast on at all! Our All About Gauge tutorial is an excellent resource to use!
All the best,
Gianna
Thank you so much, Gianna!!
Does the pattern length account for a turned up rim? Or should I adjust?
Hi Tiffany,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, the pattern length includes enough for a folded up cuff!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi Purl Soho,
I just successfully finished my first time long tale tubular cast on 🙂 However, I’m stuck on the Foundation Row 1. I read it over and over again, but I don’t seem to understand what you mean by slipping the first stitch as it seems to me you’ve already slipped it while knitting K1 haven’t you? Is there a different way of explaining or a video maybe?
Hope to hear from you, thanks very much!
Hi Britt,
Thanks for reaching out! So you aren’t slipping the first stitch, you knit the first stitch and then the 2nd stitch you are slipping purlwise meaning you put you needle into the stitch as if to purl but instead of working the stitch you move it from the left to the right needle without actually knitting it! You then repeat the Knit 1 through the back loop, slip one purlwise with yarn in front for the rest of the row.
I hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Thanks so much for your fast reply. I’m so sorry, I asked about the wrong row by mistake.
So I‘ve knit foundation row 1 & 2 with success on single pointed needles. Now I’ve switched to circular needles and I’m supposed to K1 and then K2 while slipping the K1 temporarily. This part I don’t understand 🙂
Thanks so much for your time. Looking forward to hear from you again!
Hi Britt,
Thanks for reaching out again! I see, yes it is confusing since there are two rounds of foundation rows! So for this step you are knitting 1, and then you are going to ignore the stitch that if first on the left needle and let is slip off the needles, you will then knit the second stitch and then pick the dropped stitch (so it is twisted over the other stitch like a cable stitch would be) and the you will purl it.
I hope this makes sense!
All the best,
Gianna
That part is called:
Foundation Round 1 in the pattern, just to be sure you know which part I’m talking about 🙏🏻
Hi there!
Because of the yarn and needle size I used, I only have 132 stitches. How can I modify the crown-shaping to make it work for that number of stitches? Thank you!
Hi Olivia,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you followed the same 2×2 rib stitch you should be able to follow the shaping as written but will just need to adjust the set up row to place your stitch markers in the correct spots, you can figure this out by dividing your stitches by 4 and following the k2 p2 instructions!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I was wondering if you think the Good Wool would work for this hat?
Hi Veronica,
Thanks for reaching out! Good Wool would work perfectly for this hat, it is a sport weight like Season Alpaca so they should knit up to about the same gauge! I do recommend working a gauge swatch to insure you are consistent with the pattern before you begin.
All the best,
Gianna
Hi! Wondering why if the yarn says size 3-5 needles the pattern uses size 2? Curious to learn.
Hi Cristina,
Thanks for reaching out! Typical when working a rib stitch you go down in needle size so that it is more taut, so since this hat is a bit stitch we went down to a US 2 (even though usually for that yarn you would use a 3-5) to insure a great and stretchy fit!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, would Mulberry Merino work as a replacement for the suggested yarn? Thank you!!
Hi Olivia,
Thanks for reaching out! Mulberry Merino would be an excellent option in place of Season Alpaca! They should knit up to a similar gauge but I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to insure you are consistent with the pattern!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi. I just purchased gift bundles to make hats for Christmas. Is the yarn included enough to knit both a gauge swatch and the hat?
Thanks,
Melissa
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes with 2 skeins of Linen Quill Worsted you should have plenty of yarn to swatch and knit the hat!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi!
I know this is a silly question, but I’m a very novice knitter, and all long tail tubular cast on explanations I’ve seen are for DPNs/Single pointed needles, not circular needles.
So how do I work the foundation rows in circular needles?
Thank you!
Hi Glenda,
Thanks for reaching out! When working with a Long Tail Tubular Cast On you always start by casting on to straight needles. You will work Foundation Rows 1 and 2 on the straight needles, and then you will then transfer the stitches to your circular needles and place a unique marker and join for working in the round! You can see this process in our Long Tail Tubular Cast On tutorial. If you don’t feel comfortable working this cast on technique you can easily use Long Tail Cast On instead!
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
As a new knitter, I am unclear after joining in the round with a knit stitch, do I then start the first round with K2P2 or does the joining stitch count as the first K?
Thanks for any help!
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! The joining knit stitch counts as your first k so you would now k1 p2 and then continue on in the k2 p2 pattern!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there. Thank you for the pattern. I’m clearly missing something in the setting up of stich markers for the decrease… Please help. I only have 4 stitch markers for the smallest size, so for the first decrease row I would be decreasing only 5 stitches, not 8. Can you tell where I’m going wrong?
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out! You stitch markers sound correct to me, you should have 4 stitch markers including the unique end of round marker! I think I see what might be happening! For round 1 of the shaping section, the 4 times refers to everything inside the brackets, not just the k2tog section. So you will be working the ssk and k2tog both within each section, giving you a total of 8 stitches decreased. I find that sometimes, writing the row out long form can help here!
Round 1 reads: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 1 EXPANDED reads: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog], [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog], [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog], [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog]. [8 total stitches decreased]
I hope this clears things up and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you so much for the great explanation… that makes sense! 🙂
Hello, I’m a novice knitter and confused about language in the Set-Up Round…
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker, [(k1, p2, k1) six (8, 10) times, place marker] three times, *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
What it she “three times” referring to? These are the steps I’m clear on, but I don’t see what what I am supposed to be doing three times?
1. Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker
2. k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker
3.[(k1, p2, k1) six (8, 10) times, place marker] three times
4. *k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round
Any clarity would be appreciated, thanks!
Hi Sunday!
When the pattern says “three times”, it’s referring to the instructions inside the brackets []. So for example, if you were knitting the smallest size, it’s asking you to:
(k1, p2, k1) 6 times, place a marker; then repeat that set of instructions two more times (which totals the “three times” mentioned).
I hope that helps clear things up, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy Knitting!
Kelsey
Hi, I’m looking at the sizes and wondering what “adult small” and “adult large” really mean (and why isn’t there an “adult medium?”). I am knitting the hat for an 18-year-old young woman who has what I assume is a typical-sized head for a person her age, but it is a surprise so I can’t ask her head measurement. What’s your best guess here?
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for reaching out! Since this is a ribbed hat there is a lot of flexibility with the sizing, that is why we offer an adult small and adult large! Those two sizes will fit quite a range of sizes for all genders! For a younger woman I would suggest the Adult Small! I am 23 myself and have a 21″ circumference which is pretty standard, and I always make the Adult Small size for myself!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi I’m knitting this hat for my dad who wants a fitted hat without a fold over brim (more like a beanie). Could you recommend how long I should roughly knit the hat? Or at least how deep the fold over brim is so I could roughly work out how much to reduce the hats height. I’m knitting the largest size incase you needed to know. Thank you in advance 🙂
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for reaching out! The cuff is approximately 2″ so if you are making the Adult Large I would suggest working the 2×2 rib stitch until you reach 7″ instead of 9″!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi! Is there a video or further clarification that explains how to do the following?
“Foundation Round 1: *K1, knit the second stitch on the left needle letting the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle, place that fallen stitch back onto the left needle, p2, repeat from * to end of round.“
Thanks in advance!
Hi Lani,
Thanks for reaching out! While we don’t currently have a video tutorial of this particular row, I’d be happy to help clarify it for you!
After the initial K1, you’re going to let the next stitch on your left needle gently fall off the needle (being careful not to let this stitch unravel), then knit the following stitch. Now, place the stitch that you let fall off the needle back onto the left needle, then purl that stitch and the following stitch. That brings you to the *, which directs you to repeat that entire sequence again from the initial K1.
I hope this helps clear things up, but if you have any other questions you can always reach out to us at [email protected] for more help!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Thank you!!
Hi there! Love your yarns and patterns! I’m knitting this hat and started with 120 stitches cast on because of my yarn/needle size etc. I’m about to start shaping the crown and am struggling a bit with where to start since my cast on number is different from the pattern. Is there perhaps a row I could add and then rejoin the pattern instructions? Thanks so much!! Kate
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! We’re glad to hear you enjoy our yarns and patterns so much and would love to help you out on this. In the future, we’d highly recommend changing your needle size if your gauge is off, rather than adjusting the cast on number. This is particularly difficult to modify for hats because the decreases in a crown have to be performed a certain way to make the ribbing look neat. Since you’re closer to the middle size I’d recommend only changing the set up round by using the instructions below instead.
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, replace unique end-of-round stitch marker,
[(k1, p2, k1) 8 times, place marker]
[(k1, p2, k1) 7 times, place marker]
[(k1, p2, k1) 8 times, place marker]
*k1, p2, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
You can follow the rest of the pattern as written, but when it says “Repeat Rounds 1-8 zero (1, 2) more time(s). [64 stitches]” repeat rounds 1-8 one more time, which will give you 56 stitches total by that point instead of 64. When you get to the very end, you should only have 14 stitches to slip your thread through.
I hope that helps and you’re able to continue on easily!
All the best,
Zha Zha
I have a DK tweed I think is perfect for this hat, 231yds/100g would this pattern work for this?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in. While we designed this hat for a sportweight yarn, you may be able to make the DK work, as long as you’re able to get the correct gauge. You may want to try using smaller needles from the start, since that could help make your gauge tighter! In terms of the yardage, 231 yards would be enough to make the smallest two sizes, but you would need more yarn to make the largest size. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can this be knit in a DK weight yarn? How do I adjust the needle size. Thank you in advance
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for reaching out. I think you could definitely knit this hat with DK yarn, but you would need to do some modifications to the number of stitches you cast on, as well as changing the needle size. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern with the needles you plan on using (you can use whichever size work best for your yarn). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 4.
Then, you can just follow the pattern as written, up until the Shape Crown section. Here, you’re going to want to place your 3 stitch markers (in addition to your end-of-round markers) and even distance apart. You can figure out exactly how many stitches this is by dividing your cast-on number by 4. Then, just work the crown decrease until you have 16 stitches left, and pull the yarn through to close the hat!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can this be knit with chunky yarn? What adaptations would I need to make?
Hi Pam,
Thanks for writing in. I think you could definitely knit this hat with chunky yarn, but you would need to do some modifications to the number of stitches you cast on, as well as changing the needle size. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern with the needles you plan on using. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 4.
Then, you can just follow the pattern as written, up until the Shape Crown section. Here, you’re going to want to place your 3 stitch markers (in addition to your end-of-round markers) and even distance apart. You can figure out exactly how many stitches this is by dividing your cast-on number by 4. Then, just work the crown decrease until you have 16 stitches left, and pull the yarn through to close the hat!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Round 3: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k2, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Above is from the decrease instructions – I can’t figure out any way that these directions end up as 8 stitched decreased.
ssk – 1 decrease
k2 tog 4 times – 4 decreases
Hi Kathie,
Thanks for reaching out. You’ll actually be working both the ssk and the k2tog 4 times each! The “four times” refers to all of the instructions within the square brackets, rather than just the last stitch. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
sorry – but then what do the stars mean? after the SSK, I should k2 and p2 until the last 4 stitches – last 4 before what – the marker? if I do that, I can’t repeat the whole thing 4 times. For starters, there are 2 markers plus the end of row marker.
Hi Kathie,
The stars here just mean to work “in pattern,” meaning knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches! So on Round 1, after you work the ssk, you’ll just knit the knits and purl the purls until 2 stitches before each marker. At this point in the pattern, you should actually have 4 stitch markers on your needles (3 plus the end of round marker), so I would recommend going back to the Set-Up Round and placing the final marker before continuing on!
All the best,
Lili
Are the recommended needle sizes and pattern given for the worsted weight version? Just a little confused! Thank-you!
Hi Kyla,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Season Alpaca version, you will want to use a US 2 needle (shown in the materials list on the original pattern project page), and for the Linen Quill Worsted version, you will want to use a US 5 needle (shown in the materials list on the update project page). However, you will follow the same pattern on the original pattern page for both versions!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I’m a novice hat knitter and find myself close to the set-up round section. I need guidance about two things. I adjusted the pattern and casted on 140 stitches for a good fit and need help with the number of decreases. Also, I used a basic long tail cast on assuming I didn’t need to knit three foundation rows. Is this correct? Do I need to start all over again? Gosh, I look forward to your feedback!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out. Since you followed the same 2×2 rib stitch you should be able to follow the shaping as written but will just need to adjust the set-up row to place your stitch markers in the correct spots, you can figure this out by dividing your stitches by 4 and following the k2 p2 instructions! And in answer to your question about the long tail cast-on, no, you definitely did not need to knit the foundation rows. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I cast on 124 stitches since earlier comments said the pattern would still work with any multiple of four. However, I just started the first decrease round and have been having some trouble. I divided the stitches into 4 equal groups of 31 stitches each in the set up round. For round 1, I did the (k1, p2, k1)x2, ssk, and repeated p1, k2, p1 — but I only got to k1, p2 before there were two stitches left before the next marker. I continued to the next markers but have been having similar issues — for instance, I ended up having to p2tog instead of k2tog. I’m worried I’m messing up the pattern!
Round 1: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, ssk, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Hi Margalit,
Thanks for writing in and sorry for the delay in responding to your comment! The problem that you are running into is that there are not an even number of stitches within the marker sections. Looking at the pattern further, even though the body of the hat works over multiples of 4, the crown shaping actually will only work over a multiple of 8 stitches. Unfortunately, the best plan of action would be to take out the work and cast on the correct number of stitches, or you can try to continue as is, but the shaping may look a bit funky compared to how it looks in the photos.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
My head is a little under 23”. But the sizes exclude that size. I assume the small would be too tight and the large would be too big. What can I do?
Hi Anne,
I’d recommend going with the Small! I find that over time, knit hats tend to stretch out a bit, so it would be better to start from something that’s slightly smaller, rather than slightly larger.
All the best,
Lili
Hi – could you use super soft merino for this hat?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid that Super Soft Merino is too thick of a yarn for this pattern. The Lovely Ribbed Hat was written for a sportweight yarn, which is significantly thinner than a bulky weight yarn like Super Soft Merino. I’d recommend taking a look at the Snowy Day Hat instead, for a fairly similar-looking design that uses this yarn though!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I just finished this project — it’s the 2nd thing I’ve ever knitted, so I’m very excited! Unfortunately, I underestimated how stretchy this would be, and it’s too big for my head by at least an inch around. I’d hate to start over from scratch and undo all my work….would soaking in hot water to shrink slightly be a safe option? The yarn I used is 100% non-superwash merino. Thanks!
Hi Lee,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that your hat turned out too large! I would recommend staying away from hot water in general, since it has the potential to felt the wool, which changes its texture considerably. What you could do instead though is run elastic thread through the brim, which will help it make it more snug while not altering the yarn at all. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there, am loving this pattern, however I’m stuck on the 2nd decrease row.
Round 2: [(K1, p2, k1) two times, k1, *p1, k2, p1, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1] four times.
Somehow is seems to mess up the k2 p2 rib pattern. What am I doing wrong?
Thank you for you help.
Hi Shelly,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that you’ve run into a stopping point! After Round 1, the stitch pattern actually will not be completely 2 x 2 ribbing! That’s because you’re worked some decreases in Round 1 that turned some of the p2 columns into p1 columns for a bit. The way Round 2 works is that it keeps you knitting “in pattern,” or, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches, even though it’s not continuous 2 x 2 ribbing. After you cycle through all the decrease rounds once, you’ll be back to 2 x 2 ribbing. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
hi, i am thinking about using your hedgerow yarn for this, would that work? if yes, what size needle? i was a little confused by the suggestion of a size 5 with the old linen quill worsted, but the above pattern a size 2 with the season alpaca?) thanks!
Hi LJ,
Thank you for writing in! We recommend starting with a gauge swatch with your Hedgerow yarn in the same needle size as the pattern. If you are able to get that same gauge then you can go with that! Hedgerow is a little thicker than the season alpaca but as long as you meet gauge you shouldn’t have an issue as the hat pattern is quite stretchy! I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions.
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
ok thanks!
Hi there,
Can I use the Cashmere Merino Bloom yarn for this hat. I’m looking for a 2×2 ribbed hat pattern using this wool.
Thanks!
Cara
Hi Cara,
To use Cashmere Merino Bloom, we’d suggest going up a needle size, and down a hat size!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi Gianna, I’d like to make this hat with a double fixed brim and a head-hugging crown, in the largest size. Can you suggest what length to knit before shaping, please?
Hi Lesley,
That’s a great idea! The most accurate way to decide when to begin the crown shaping is to try on the hat as you go, since fit can be so individualized! Once you’re able to wear the hat-in-progress and the bottom of the brim falls where you want it to fall (usually right at the earlobes), then it would be time to begin the crown so that it comes out how you want. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili