Double Knit Blanket
Our Double Knit Blanket is, indeed, double knit! Double knitting is a simple way to create two layers of stockinette fabric at once by slipping every other stitch as you alternate yarn colors each row. The result? One yarn on one side and another on the other… Needle magic!
What’s more, we took a page from the quilting books and threw in tiny tacks (created while you knit!), critical little details that truly set this blanket apart.
One of the opportunities our Double Knit Blanket gives us is to explore our favorite stew: the one where we throw rustic and refined into the very same pot. And so, one side is our undyed Good Wool, a straight-from-nature rugged beauty, while the other is our sumptuous Mulberry Merino with its subtle shine and smooth finish… Great flavors together!
To make a baby-size blanket in these two yarns, you’ll just need one of our Double Knit Blanket Bundles. Each one includes Good Wool’s Driftwood Gray for one side, and then choose from four different Mulberry Merino colors for the other (this one is gorgeous Persimmon Orange). Want to make it a throw? We tell how many skeins and cast-on stitches to add!
Apart from its two-sided fun, our Double Knit Blanket’s two layers give it a seriously decadent drape and warmth… an heirloom knit for a new baby or an old friend or even yourself!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Update: New Colors
March 25, 2019
We love the original version of our Double Knit Blanket so much that we decided to update our Bundle options with the newest colors of Mulberry Merino! Our Double Knit Blanket Bundle is available in seven beautiful color combos!
Materials
Our Double Knit Blanket Bundle has enough yarn to make the Baby size blanket. It includes…
- Yarn A: 3 skeins of Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% undyed Andean highland wool
- Yarn B: 4 skeins of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% extra fine merino wool and 20% mulberry silk
NOTE: To make the Throw size you will need an additional…
- 1 skein of Yarn A
- 2 skeins of Yarn B
In addition to the Driftwood Gray + Persimmon Orange palette we used, you can choose from six other palettes, shown above from left to right, top to bottom…
- Driftwood Gray + Heirloom White
- Walking Stick + Red Pine
- Winter Grass + Light Cerulean
- Driftwood Gray + True Turquoise
- Winter Grass + Mustard Seed
- Driftwood Gray + Green Spruce
You’ll also need…
- US 6, 32-, 40-, or 47-inch circular needles
- Spare US 5 or smaller, 32-, 40-, or 47-inch circular needles
Gauge
21 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in double knit stockinette stitch, using the larger needles
Sizes
Baby (Throw)
- Finished Measurements: 28 x 38 (39 1/2 x 50) inches
Sample: Baby
Notes
Slip Stitches
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise unless indicated in the pattern.
Changing Colors
When changing colors, carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn.
Turn and Slide
Each row in this pattern starts with the instructions to either “Turn” or “Slide” the work:
“Turning the work” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with circular needles: Transfer the needle from your left hand into your right and the needle from your right hand into your left, and flip the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
“Sliding the work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to work the next row is magically there waiting for you!
Stitch Multiple
To adjust the width of the project, cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it.
Double Knitting
This blanket uses a technique called Double Knitting. You can follow the pattern as written, but if you need extra help, our step-by-step video tutorial shows you exactly how to do it!
Pattern
Cast On + Set Up
NOTE: For our version of this blanket, we used a Long Tail Tubular Cast On (and omitted the foundation rows). You should know that this cast on is quite a bit more complicated than a Long Tail Cast On, so if you go down the Tubular path and get frustrated, just use a Long Tail Cast On… It’ll look beautiful, we promise!
With Yarn A and the smaller needles if working a Long Tail Cast On and the larger needles if doing a Tubular one, cast on 294 (414) stitches.
NOTE: If using a Long Tail Cast On on smaller needles, switch to larger needles.
Set-Up Row 1 (wrong side): Turn work (see Notes) and with Yarn A,*k1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to end of row.
Set-Up Row 2 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Begin Double Knitting
Row 1 (right side): Slide work (see Notes) and with Yarn A, *slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *slip 1 wyib, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for a total of 1 inch, ending with Row 4.
Tack Down
Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Continue Double Knitting
Repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section until piece measures 1 inch from the previous tack down row, ending with Row 4.
Stagger Tack Down
Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 18 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 18 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Continue
Repeat from Row 1 of Begin Double Knitting section to Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section until piece measures 37 (49) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section.
Repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section for 1 more inch, until piece measures 38 (50) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4.
Cut Yarn B.
Bind Off
Set-Up Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Set-Up Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Alternating between needles, slip all the knit stitches onto the working circular needles and all the purl stitches onto spare circular needles.
FOR A LONG TAIL TUBULAR CAST ON…
Slide work and with right side facing you, use Yarn A to bind off in Kitchener Stitch.
IF YOU DID A LONG TAIL CAST ON…
With Yarn A and the right side facing you, bind off using a 3-Needle Bind Off.
Weave in the ends and block as desired!
PRINT
I’m about to embark on the double knit blanket, but while knitting the swatch I am finding that it’s easy to get muddled about where in the four row knitting sequence I am. Is there a way to identify where I am? Eg, if the yarn for both colours are at the same end of the row, I must be at a particular place in the sequence?
Hi Anne,
Great question! If both yarns are at the same edge, that means you are about to start either Row 2 or Row 4, and you can easily tell which row it is by whether the right side or wrong side is facing you. It’s much more difficult, however, to tell the difference between Rows 1 and 3, so whenever possible, I would recommend waiting until after Row 1 or 3, or when both yarns are at one edge of the blanket, before putting down your work. If you have to stop after Row 2 or 4, you will probably need to use a stitch counter or make a note of which row is next!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Is this adaptable to use with Line Weight?
Hi Saskia,
Great question! Yes, I think with a few modifications, this blanket would be wonderful in Line Weight! To adjust for the smaller gauge, you will need to knit a gauge swatch in the double knitting pattern using Line Weight and a US 1 or 2 needle. You can then multiply your stitches per inch by 28 or your desired width, round to the nearest multiple of 10 plus 7 stitches, and double that number to determine how many stitches to cast on.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Do you have a guesstimate on how many skeins of Line Weight I’ll need of each color?
Hi Saskia,
It can be difficult to estimate how much yarn you will need when changing the gauge like this. The best way to find out is to knit your swatch, weigh it to see how many grams of yarn you used, and then divide the square inches of your desired blanket size by the square inches of your swatch. You can then multiply that number by the weight of your swatch to determine about how may grams total you will need for the blanket. Roughly, based on other fingering weight blankets we have made, you should have more than enough yarn with 4 skeins of each color for the crib blanket or 6 skeins of each color for the throw.
Best,
Julianna
I’m using the tubular cast on. Which row will be my first row?
Do I ignore the 2 set up rows and start with row 1 of the pattern?
Hi Yrezenia,
Thanks for writing in! For this pattern, after working the tubular cast on, you will not work the set-up rows that are part of our Tubular Cast On Tutorial. Instead, once your stitches are on the needle, you will immediately start with Set-Up Row 1 and Set-Up Row 2 from the blanket pattern above.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Most tutorials for the long tail tubular cast on are for knit/purl ribbing. Am I correct in assuming that, for this pattern, I would use a knit only tubular cast on?
Hi Alecia,
Thanks for reaching out! The Long Tail Tubular Cast On can actually only create alternating knit and purl stitches. Although it can be modified for a few variations of ribbing, I’m don’t believe there is a way to modify it to create only knit stitches. In this case, however, the alternating knit and purl stitches are correct! After you work the set-up rows in the pattern, the knit stitches of the cast on will go into one layer of the blanket, and the purl stitches will go into the other. It might be a little difficult to visualize, but once you’ve done the first few rows and can see the double knit fabric emerging, it should start to make sense!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am desperately trying to order a double knit blanket kit, but can’t figure out your site. Does that mean I’m not smart enough to knit that blanket?
Hi Cydney,
Thank you so much for reaching out! Not at all, we would be more than happy to help you place your order, and even happier to answer any questions you might have as you knit! If you’re still having trouble ordering, please reach out to us either at customerservice@purlsoho.com or (800) 597 PURL!
Hi – if using the tubular cast on, when you say that you “omitted the foundation rows”, does that mean you didn’t do the typical tubular foundation rows, or do you mean you omitted the set-up rows that are listed as part of the pattern?
Hi Tanya,
Thanks for writing in! This means that you will skip the usual set-up rows that are part of our Long Tail Tubular Cast On tutorial, and instead work Set-Up Rows 1 and 2 that are part of the pattern above.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
On the Double Knit Blanket, if both sides appear the same, why is more of one color than the other necessary?
Is this project appropriate for and intermediate/advanced beginner?
Many thanks,
Francine
Hi Francine,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that the yardage for both sides of the blanket is almost exactly the same! However, Good Wool has quite a bit more yardage per skein than Mulberry Merino, so three skeins of Good Wool actually has more yardage than four skeins of Mulberry Merino. I definitely think this pattern would be worth a try! The stitches themselves are quite easy and there are only four rows to repeat, so you could always cast on any even number of stitches to knit a practice swatch and see if you enjoy the technique.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Is it possible to convert this blanket into a scarf using #3 light (weight 0.88 oz, 82 yards) cashmere yarn? I was thinking I could do a quarter width and double the length from the baby blanket measurement.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! You can definitely convert this blanket pattern to a scarf! If you are going to be substituting for another yarn just make sure to do a gauge swatch to make sure it is consistent with the pattern and cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches to insure you are working across the correct number of stitches for the pattern repeats!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Have just finished this double knit blanket (love !!!) however, my sides are not attached in some places. I guess I didn’t rotate my yarn correctly. Is there a way to fix this after the fact ? baby shower next month !!! HELP !
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! You can go back in with a tapestry needle and one of the yarns and seam up the spots that are not attached and then weave in the ends!
I hope this helps but if you have any more questions feel free to reach out!
Best,
Gianna