Double Knit Blanket
Our Double Knit Blanket is, indeed, double knit! Double knitting is a simple way to create two layers of stockinette fabric at once by slipping every other stitch as you alternate yarn colors each row. The result? One yarn on one side and another on the other… Needle magic!
What’s more, we took a page from the quilting books and threw in tiny tacks (created while you knit!), critical little details that truly set this blanket apart.
One of the opportunities our Double Knit Blanket gives us is to explore our favorite stew: the one where we throw rustic and refined into the very same pot. And so, one side is our undyed Good Wool, a straight-from-nature rugged beauty, while the other is our sumptuous Mulberry Merino with its subtle shine and smooth finish… Great flavors together!
To make a baby-size blanket in these two yarns, you’ll just need one of our Double Knit Blanket Bundles. Each one includes Good Wool’s Driftwood Gray for one side, and then choose from four different Mulberry Merino colors for the other (this one is gorgeous Persimmon Orange). Want to make it a throw? We tell how many skeins and cast-on stitches to add!
Apart from its two-sided fun, our Double Knit Blanket’s two layers give it a seriously decadent drape and warmth… an heirloom knit for a new baby or an old friend or even yourself!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Update: New Colors
March 25, 2019
We love the original version of our Double Knit Blanket so much that we decided to update our Bundle options with the newest colors of Mulberry Merino! Our Double Knit Blanket Bundle is available in seven beautiful color combos!
UPDATE: NOW IN GOOD WOOL + SEASON ALPACA
MARCH 2024
Earthy Good Wool and smooth-as-honey Season Alpaca each bring their own very special touch to our Double Knit Blanket… You’ll love the satisfying feel of these yarns together! Pick from nine gorgeous Double Knit Blanket Bundles and enjoy the two-sided wonder that is double knitting!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
Please Note: Our Double Knit Blanket Bundles are no longer available. To build your own, you will need…
- Yarn A: 3 (5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% undyed Andean highland wool yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is 383 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 966 (1788) yards required.
- Yarn B: 4 (7) skeins of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% extra fine merino wool and 20% mulberry silk. Each 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 957 (1526) yards required.
In addition to the Driftwood Gray + Persimmon Orange palette we used, you can choose from six other palettes, shown above from left to right, top to bottom…
- Driftwood Gray + Heirloom White
- Walking Stick + Red Pine
- Winter Grass + Light Cerulean
- Driftwood Gray + True Turquoise
- Winter Grass + Mustard Seed
- Driftwood Gray + Green Spruce
You’ll also need…
- US 6 (4 mm), 32-, 40-, or 47-inch circular needles
- Spare US 5 (3.75 mm) or smaller, 32-, 40-, or 47-inch circular needles
Gauge
21 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in double knit stockinette stitch, using the larger needles
Sizes
Crib (Throw)
- Finished Measurements: 28 x 38 (39½ x 50) inches
Sample: We knit the Crib size.
Notes
Slip Stitches
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise unless indicated in the pattern.
Changing Colors
When changing colors, carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn.
Turn and Slide
Each row in this pattern starts with the instructions to either “Turn” or “Slide” the work:
“Turning the work” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with circular needles: Transfer the needle from your left hand into your right and the needle from your right hand into your left, and flip the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
“Sliding the work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to work the next row is magically there waiting for you!
Stitch Multiple
To adjust the width of the project, cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it.
Double Knitting
This blanket uses a technique called Double Knitting. You can follow the pattern as written, but if you need extra help, our step-by-step video tutorial shows you how to do it! (Please note that Rows 1 and 2 in the video are the Set-Up Rows in our Double Knit Blanket pattern, below.)
Pattern
Cast On + Set Up
NOTE: For our version of this blanket, we used a Long Tail Tubular Cast On (and omitted the foundation rows). You should know that this cast on is quite a bit more complicated than a Long Tail Cast On, so if you go down the Tubular path and get frustrated, just use a Long Tail Cast On… It’ll look beautiful, we promise!
With Yarn A and the smaller needles if working a Long Tail Cast On and the larger needles if doing a Tubular one, cast on 294 (414) stitches.
NOTE: If using a Long Tail Cast On on smaller needles, switch to larger needles.
Set-Up Row 1 (wrong side): Turn work (see Notes) and with Yarn A,*k1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to end of row.
Set-Up Row 2 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Begin Double Knitting
Row 1 (right side): Slide work (see Notes) and with Yarn A, *slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *slip 1 wyib, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for a total of 1 inch, ending with Row 4.
Tack Down
Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Continue Double Knitting
Repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section until piece measures 1 inch from the previous tack down row, ending with Row 4.
Stagger Tack Down
Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 18 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 18 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Continue
Repeat from Row 1 of Begin Double Knitting section to Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section until piece measures 37 (49) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section.
Repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section for 1 more inch, until piece measures 38 (50) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4.
Cut Yarn B.
Bind Off
Set-Up Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Set-Up Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Alternating between needles, slip all the knit stitches onto the working circular needles and all the purl stitches onto spare circular needles.
FOR A LONG TAIL TUBULAR CAST ON…
Slide work and with right side facing you, use Yarn A to bind off in Kitchener Stitch.
IF YOU DID A LONG TAIL CAST ON…
With Yarn A and the right side facing you, bind off using a 3-Needle Bind Off.
Weave in the ends and block as desired!
LEARN ABOUT GOOD WOOL + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Good Wool adds loads of character, beauty, and integrity to this knit! A sport-weight yarn whose lofty 2-ply spin can also bloom into a light worsted/DK-weight yarn, Good Wool is made from 100% Andean highland wool, a toothy fiber with a deeply natural appeal. This yarn has a spectacular palette of complex and subtly varied colors, including 5 undyed shades. Very close to the hearts of our customers, Good Wool is a true knitter’s yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Good Wool knitting patterns and cast on!
More Sport-Weight Yarns + Light Worsted/DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of sport-weight yarn
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns (What does DK-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to DK yarn will answer your questions and demystify.)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 45 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 1000’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Wow! This is gorgeous! Im going to be starting a beginning knit class in April — would this pattern be easy enough for a beginner to tackle? Also, can this be put in the washer/dryer?
Hi Judie,
Thanks for reaching out! This double knitting technique is fairly unique so it’s new to a lot of knitters, but as long as you have a solid grasp of the basics (knit, purl, casting on and binding off) you should be able to handle it. I would classify it was an advanced-beginner project! I’d suggest trying out a swatch in double knitting with some scrap yarn to see if you think it will work for you!
Both yarns used in this lovely blanket are hand wash only but you can certainly change the yarn out for a washable alternative!
Best,
Cassy
What would be a good washable alternative?
Hello,
Thanks for writing in! For a washable version of this blanket, you could use Anzula Cricket for which you would need 4 skeins of each color!
Alternately, for a non-wool alternative, I would recommend our Cotton Pure, which has a great drape and hand! You will want to go down to a US 5 and cast on 314 or 334 stitches for the smaller size. You will also need 5 skeins of each of 2 colors of the Cotton Pure!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi!
I love this blanket too, but am interested in a washable/sensitive skin version for the throw size. What would be the cast-on and number of skeins I would need for the throw with either the Cotton Pure or the Anzula Cricket?
Thanks!
Hi Corey,
Thanks for writing in! For both Cotton Pure and Anzula Cricket, I would suggest going down to a US 5 needle and casting on 434 or 454 stitches to make the throw sized blanket. It is a bit trickier to estimate yardage when changing gauge, so to be on the safe side I would get 7 skeins of each color for either yarn. If you find that you have any extra skeins leftover, any unwound yarn can be returned for store credit!
Best,
Julianna
Love the look of this, and there’s a baby on the way to knit for.
Is there any problem with the 2 different weights of yarn and the blanket laying smoothly and not puckering? Do you think it would need up fine with the same yarn on both sides?
Thanks much,
Ellen A.
Hi Ellen,
Thank you for reaching out! For this blanket, you will really want your yarn to be close in gauge. Here there is a slight difference in gauge between the two yarns used, they are essentially the same gauge. If you were to use yarns that were quite different, one side would be larger than the other and/or the fabric would be loose. For a successful double knit fabric, you will really want the two yarns to be quite similar!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This is absolutely gorgeous. I must do it. Being an advanced beginner going back to just basic beginner each time I am off this exercise, I am a little cautious about starting something beautiful. But this is a must. Thank you.
So sweet, love double knitting…you should call this ‘Pick Knit’!
This is absolutely stunning! I would call myself an advanced beginner also, but would not hesitate to delve right into such a well designed and well written pattern! Thank you Purl Soho!
Julie
I want to knit this for my 2 year old grandson, but his skin is sensitive, so no wool. Can you suggest another wool for me? I definitely want the orange and either blue or grey or a neutral for the other side! I’m anxious to get going with this. I’m an advanced beginner!
Hi Betsy,
Thanks for writing in! Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing in! For a non-wool alternative, I would recommend our Cotton Pure, which has a great drape and hand! You will want to go down to a US 5 and cast on 314 or 334 stitches for the smaller size. You will also need 5 skeins of each of 2 colors of the Cotton Pure!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love the colors for Cotton Pure- I would like to make one with a dark blue- could you recommend a few blue/blue pairings for me? Or others you’d recommend for a baby boy? It’s so hard to tell what will look good together from the pictures. Thank you!
Hello Alexis,
Thank you for reaching out! Blue on Blue in Cotton Pure sounds like a lovely Idea. I would recommend either the Nocturnal Blue with Seaside Blue, or Stream Blue with White Caps Blue. If you want a higher contrast I would recommend substituting the Seaside or White Caps Blue for Icicle Blue.
I hope this helps and Happy knitting!
I, too, want to make this for my 2-year old grandson and like the idea of cotton simply…well, for the ease of care given it’s for a 2-year old boy. His favorite color is orange, so I LOVE the persimmon orange offered in the Mulberry Merino. There doesn’t appear to be an orange offering in the Cotton Pure. What do you suggest?
Thank you–
Hi Meg,
Great question! We do have a light orange in Cotton Pure that would be lovely, called Golden Peach! Warm Cider is darker but is more of a yellow-y, orange-y brown!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I tried double-knitting a few years ago, but I think the project was too much for me. This looks a LOT easier, and it might be just the thing to get me to try it again!
Gorgeous!!
I love the colour choices..
Unfortunately I do not understand the “turn and slip”instructions. Is there any video that shows this?
It will help me a lot if I see how I have to do it.
Regards,
Gaby (from Germany)
Hi Gaby,
Thanks for writing in! At present we do not have a video for this pattern but we will certainly keep your request in mind for the future! In general, when you are asked to turn your work, you will do as your normally would when working back and forth on a flat piece and turn your work from one side to another. When you are asked to slide, you will not turn your work but rather slide your stitches from one side of the circular needle to the other, keeping the same side of the work facing you and pushing all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This looks beautiful. Why does it use different weight yarn for each side?
Can it be done with the same weight?
Thanks
Hi Nina,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that the two yarns are slightly different weights! However, they are slightly different rather than quite different with Mulberry Merino being a heavy sport weight and Good Wool being a lighter DK, they can knit to the same gauge. You can certainly use two yarns that are the exact same gauge!
Best,
Cassy
Is it possible to do this in a worsted weight?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly can work this blanket in an alternate weight of yarn! You will need to go up to an appropriate size needle, for worsted weight, I would suggest a US 7 or US 8. To figure out your cast on number, you will want to knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
If I did it with worsted twist do you have an idea of the quantity of yarn I’ll need to get? Thanks for such a beautiful pattern! So excited to finally try double knitting!
Hi Emily,
Great question! This will very much depend on your personal gauge but I estimate that you will need 7 skeins of each color for the smaller size and 10 skeins of each color for the larger size blanket!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Is this difficult for a beginner knitter? What a beautiful blanket!
Hi Terry,
Thanks for reaching out! This double knitting technique is fairly unique so it’s new to a lot of knitters, but as long as you have a solid grasp of the basics (knit, purl, casting on and binding off) you should be able to handle it. I would classify it was an advanced-beginner project! I’d suggest trying out a swatch in double knitting with some scrap yarn to see if you think it will work for you!
Best,
Cassy
I love this blanket. Just can’t wait to get started.
I wish there was a video to go with this pattern
Hi Lesllaney,
Thanks for writing in! At present we do not have a video for this pattern but we will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
I second that. At least with casting on and setting up rows and then a couple of repeat rows.
This is so beautiful. What skill level do you think this is: beginner, intermediate or advanced?
Hi Colleen,
Great question! This double knitting technique is fairly unique so it’s new to a lot of knitters, but as long as you have a solid grasp of the basics (knit, purl, casting on and binding off) you should be able to handle it. I would classify it was an advanced-beginner project!
Best,
Cassy
Love this pattern! I’ve been searching for a baby blanket pattern for my baby come June. I am worried about wool for a baby. Any suggestions on other allergy friendly yarns to substitute that would be just as soft and would give just like the wool? Thanks! Can’t wait to start this project!
Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing in! We are happy to help with alternate yarn suggestions! For a non-wool alternative, I would recommend our Cotton Pure, which has a great drape and hand! You will want to go down to a US 5 and cast on 314 or 334 stitches for the smaller size. You will also need 5 skeins of each of 2 colors of the Cotton Pure!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
You’re killin’ me, Smalls. I absolutely cannot purchase another project, but…. I really, really, really want to make this.
I LOVE this pattern! Do you have recommendations for a machine washable yarn substitute? I’d love to gift this but know the new mom won’t have time to hand-wash and lay flat to dry . . .
Thanks!
Hi Hailey,
Thanks for writing in! For a washable version of this blanket, you could use Anzula Cricket for which you would need 4 skeins of each color!
Alternately, for a non-wool alternative, I would recommend our Cotton Pure, which has a great drape and hand! You will want to go down to a US 5 and cast on 314 or 334 stitches for the smaller size. You will also need 5 skeins of each of 2 colors of the Cotton Pure!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This is so pretty! With each pattern you put out, I just want to buy the whole store… I do have one problem here, stemming from my always trying to avoid measuring the length of what I am knitting (counting rows is easier!) Each DK section has a 4-row pattern, and it says to end with row 4 before the tack down. The instructions say to do the tack down after 1 inch of DK, but the Gauge section says 30 rows = 4 inches, so 1 inch = 7.5 rows. Wouldn’t it be easier to simply say “Knit 8 rows of DK (2 of the 4-row sections), then do the tack down part”? Would that ruin the rhythm of the blanket somehow, would it require to change its length? What am I missing? Thank you!!
Hi Mrs. Bee,
Thank you so much for your kind words! In theory, you can knit to rows instead of inches assuming that you are getting gauge! If you would like to use the number of rows instead of the measurement in inches, I would suggest measuring after knitting the 8 rows to ensure that this will give you the correct measurements and then you may proceed with your row counts. For my part, I find that with double knitting, measuring by rows can get a bit confusing as you are sliding your work every other row! You should do what works best for you and I am sure that the result will be a lovely blanket!
Best,
Cassy
I would love to knit this blanket! Is this Good Wool yarn itchy though? It’s ok for babies? I just want to find some soft yarn that will be fine against a baby’s skin. Advice?? Thanks!!
Hello Caitlin,
Thank you for reaching out! While Good Wool is not as soft as super fine merino, it is still soft and very lovely to work with. If you wanted to substitute Good Wool I would look at Anzula’s Cricket or our Cotton Pure.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I can only echo, “beautiful…stunning”!
What are the washing and drying instructions for this wool/blanket?
Hello Monica,
Thank you for reaching out and for your kind words! For this blanket you will hand-wash and lay flat to dry.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Love this double knit blanket. I knitted a swatch/sample and ran into a possible typo on the pattern. The 2 rows for set up for bindoff aren’t correct. Shouldn’t they be Purled instead of Knitted?
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out! For the two set-up rows for the bind off, you will want to knit both rows. For set-up row 1, you are essentially working row 1 of the the regular repeat for the rest of the blanket with is a knit row for Yarn A. For set-up row 2, you are turning your work to show the side that is generally worked with Yarn B and you will be knitting the Yarn B stitches with Yarn A. These two rwos will set you up to complete the tubular bind off!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love this pattern! I have a big stash of bulky yarn that I planned to use for a blanket — if I adjusted the guage, do you think this pattern would hold up under the weight of the chunkier yarn?
HI Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out! You can certainly regauge this pattern to work with different weights of yarn! The think that you may want to keep in mind is that the bulkier the yarn the heavier the blanket. As double knit gives you two layers of yarn, the resulting blanket could be quite heavy indeed! That said, go ahead and knit up a gauge swatch and see how you like the fabric. If the fabric is pleasing to you, you should be good to go!
Best,
Cassy
I purchased this bundle to make for a friend who is expecting and I cannot wait to try a more challenging (for me) pattern!
I do have a question about the pattern when you are casting on it states to cast on 294 stitches but then has (414) next to it. What is that number for?
Thanks!
Hi Christine,
Thanks for writing in! How exciting! For this pattern we offer 2 size options! The cast on number listed in parentheses is for the larger version of the blanket. For your bundle, you will want to cast on the smaller number!
I hope that this clears things up and happy knitting!
Cassy
I just want to make sure I understand:
Repeat from Row 1 of Begin Double Knitting section to Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section until piece measures 37 (49) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section.
Repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section for 1 more inch, until piece measures 38 (50) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4.
Does this mean:
Start again with 1. Begin TD
Continue with?
2. Tack down
3. Continue DK
4. Stagger TD
Or skip 2. And 3?
Hi Liz,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help! For the “Continue” section, you will:
1. Work “Begin Double Knitting” section.
2. Work “Tack Down” section.
3. Work “Continue Double Knitting” section.
4. Work “Stagger Tack Down” section.
You will then repeat these sections until you reach 37 or 49 inches and then you will repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section for 1 more inch, until piece measures 38 (50) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Yet another gorgeous pattern, thank you! I’m a little unclear about how to adjust the width of the pattern though… multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it. I’m looking to make a throw roughly 50″ wide with the same gauge as the pattern and came up with 528. Is that correct?? I’d hate to cast on and have it be incorrect. 🙂
Hi Stefani,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! For a 50 inch wide blanket, you will want to cast on either 514 stitches of 534 stitches (514/2=257 so 25×10=250+7=257×2=514).
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you so much!!
Thanks for this beautiful pattern, as always.
My question is for the long tail tubular cast on. Your link redirects to your video where this cast on is explained for 1×1 rib. Does the long tail tubular cast on necessarly need to be for ribbing? Or is there another long tail tubular cast on method ? In this pattern, must we cast on as if for ribbing?
Many thanks,
Stephanie
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! This is the correct long tail tubular cast on! You will be casting on as for ribbing as double knitting is essentially working both sides of the fabric from one side (so knits for the side that is facing you and purls for the side that is not). You will cast on as for 1×1 ribbing but the effect will be 2 knit sides!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m not sure how to “carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back”. Will I get a separation of the two layers with this type of double knitting if it’s not done properly? Thanks, Susan
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out! All this means is that you will cary up your new yarn in order to knit with it. It will connect the front to the back each time you are changing colors.
I hope this clears things up for you and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla,
I’m also confused, if you only carry up the yarn during colour change does that mean there will be rows where the two edges are not knitted together? For e.g. for rows where we are asked to slide work?
Hello Serlina,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, this means that there will be rows that are not knitted together. This means that there are tiny consistent gaps along each side of the blanket.
I hope this clears things up for you! Let us know if you have any further questions.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I adore this pattern, so beautiful ! I am currently making a swatch and my selvedge edges look sloppy, loose and not a nice even side edge. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. Any advice and/or tips on how to make the selvedge look like the pictured model?
Thanks ever so much !
Hello Gemma,
Thank you for reaching out! Is the main issue that the selvedge is loose, or does there seem to be something else going on as well? I would make sure that you are carrying your yarn up in back when switching colors and try your best to keep consistent tension. Blocking can also help neaten your edges, our sample was blocked. When you are finished with your swatch I would tray blocking it and seeing if that eliminates the issue.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I love the relative simplicity of this pattern (since so many double knitting patterns have complex charts). It’s a great “zen” project to work while watching TV if you’re comfortable with double knitting!
I did have one question, though. I was taught to knit and purl the stitches all in one pass when double knitting, as in you carry both colors and alternate K1 with color A and P1 with color B. Is there any reason this pattern can’t be worked that way? Is this just another technique for double knitting, or is there a fundamental difference between the two techniques that I’m not seeing in my mind’s eye?
Thanks!
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for your kind words! If you have done enough double knitting to be comfortable with altering the pattern to your usual technique, go for it! The two methods do produce the same fabric – our technique is just a bit more beginner friendly to help out knitters who are new to Double Knitting.
Good luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I love this pattern! I recently purchased the yarn needed and I am attempting for the 3rd time. My question is this-what is meant by the yarn in front or yarn in back. Is it a regular knit with the yarn in back then bring the yarn in front to slip the next stitch off or should the knit stitch be done also w the yarn in front? Thank you.
Hi Debra,
Thanks for your question! The yarn in front or yarn in back instructions refer only to the slipped stitch – for example, when the pattern reads “*k1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from *,” you will knit the first stitch with the yarn in back as normal, bring the yarn to the front of the work, slip the next stitch purlwise, then return the yarn to the back of the work before knitting the next stitch. Similarly, when the pattern reads “*slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), p1, repeat from *,” you will slip the first stitch purlwise with the yarn in the back of the work, bring your yarn forward to purl as usual, then return the yarn to the back of the work before slipping the next stitch.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Love the pattern. Thank you. For the edge not clear what carry up in back means. When I am ready to start a new row with yarn A – will I carry Yarn A in front of yarn B. And then start knitting yarn A
Hello Carol,
Thank you for reaching out! When we knit this blanket we carried the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn, this means that when you are ready to start a new row in yarn A, it will go behind yarn B to begin your row.
I hope this clears things up and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Looks like a great pattern and I am trying to do this on some scrap yarn but the long tail tubular cast on is killing me.
Hi Amy,
I’m sorry to hear you’re having difficulties! Have you seen our tutorial for the Long Tail Tubular Cast On? I agree that it can be tricky but it creates a lovely edge once you master it! I would definitely recommend practicing on straight needles rather than circular until you get the hang of it, and if you ultimately decide against it, don’t fret! A regular Long Tail Cast On will look just fine!
Warmly,
Julianna
I’ve knit up a sample swatch and both sides are “open”. Not sure what I’m doing wrong. Can you please help??? Thank you!
Denise
Hello Denise,
Thank you for reaching out! When you say open, are the two sides attached at all, or are there gabs appearing? How many stitches did you cast on for your swatch? I hope I can help!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla,
Thank you for your reply. I tried another swatch (26 stitches) and only one side was open. Should I be twisting the yarns when I switch colors? Thank you again!
Denise
Hell Denise,
Thank you for clarifying- When you switch colors you will carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn.. This will connect your back and front at each point that you switch colors.
I hope this clears things up and let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am loving this design!
I am maki my test swatch and my sides are open too (except for the rows with a tack down). Am I doing something wrong or is that right? I’m a little confused about the carrying the yarn up the back even though I’m clear how to normally change colors. I think it’s because often there is a slipped stich at the end …? Maybe these issues are related.
And I cast on 34 for my swatch.
I didn’t do the long tail cast on, I just did regular with the smaller size 5 needles- hope that’s ok!
Hello Megan,
Thank you for reaching out! I think what could be going wrong is that you are not carrying your old yarn up the selvedge when changing colors. When changing colors you will carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn, this will connect the front and back of the blanket at each point that you change colors. If you do not do this you will have a front and back completely disconnected from one another.
I hope this makes sense and please let us know I f we can clarify any of this for you.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you! Ok so these issues are related. I guess I’m not clear how to carry it up the back when sometimes there is a slip for the last stich and the two yarns are separated by a stich.
And long tail cast on with a size 5 is ok right?
Hello Megan,
This is a great question- I will do my best to describe what happens here. If you are doing row 2, your first stitch is a slip stitch, but you will still be carrying color A up. Because color B is behind color A when you do your purl, it carries color A up. Another way to think about it is, if you place color A over color B before you start your row so color B (working yarn) is now placed at the beginning of the row.
I hope this makes sense and let me know if you have any further questions regarding this!
A long tail cast on works great for this project, and as long as you are happy with your gauge US5 should be fine.
Good luck and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for such a beautiful pattern! I’m thinking of making this in blue/orange. The Persimmon Orange in Mulberry Merino is perfect, and seeing that you recommend Cricket as an alternative, would it work to mix these two yarns? Also, how about pairing Mulberry Merino with Cotton Pure or Cricket with Cotton Pure? Would that work? Cotton on one side, merino on the other? Or would it be better to go with all cotton? Thanks in advance for your help!
Hello Jennifer,
Thank you for your kind words and for your question! I believe that Mulberry Merino, Cotton Pure and Cricket are all close enough in gauge that you could mix them in any combination for this blanket. I would still, of course, knit up a gauge swatch before jumping in to avoid any surprises along the way.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
This is just beautiful and I have started knitting the blanket. My question (in anticipation of finishing this project) is, what is the neatest way to weave in the ends given that both sides are knit and both sides are the ‘right’ sides? I hope this question is not too confusing. Thank you.
Hi Bernie,
Good question! The best way to weave in your ends in double knitting is to use duplicate stitch from the outside of the project for an inch or two, and then bury your ends by inserting your tapestry needle into the open space inside of the blanket, bringing it up a few inches away, and then trimming your yarn close to the surface so the end will pop back into the blanket and disappear. I would also suggest making sure your yarn tails are on the outside or right side of the blanket so they are easier to find when you are done!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Love the color and pattern! I purchased the kit, but I’m having trouble with my swatch. I tend to knit tightly, but my gauge is WAY off when i use size 6 needles…eyeing it, I think I’d have to go up to at least 8, which looks too large for the yarn. Is the gauge correct? Using that gauge, and casting on 294 stitches instead of 21, wouldn’t the final dimension of the baby blanket be closer to 56 inches?
Hello Jillian,
Thank you for this question! Because this blanket is knit double, you are knitting both the front and back at the same time. This means that though you are casting on 294 stitches, this is for both the front and back of the blanket, so you will actually have 147 stitches in the front and 147 in the back.
I hope this clears things up for you and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Ah, I get it now! So really, for the gauge swatch, I should cast on 42, for 21 stitches on each side in double knit! Thank you for that clarification!
I would like to knit this in the larger throw using the cotton pure. I’ve read through all of the above comments and saw that for the baby throw, you recommend 5 skeins of each color of the cotton pure yarn. Do I need 6 or 7 skeins of each color of cotton pure for the larger size throw?
Hi Tuesday,
Thanks for writing in! Since the Cotton Pure is just a little thinner than Good Wool and Mulberry Merino, I would suggest getting 7 skeins of each color for the throw size blanket and increasing your cast on to 434 or 454 stitches.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Awesome….thank you so much!
This is a beautiful pattern! I would like to make one using Pure Cotton in the color Purple Heath. It is so hard to tell on the computer screen so would you mind recommending which gray color you would use for the second color? Would you use Cloud Gray or Bucket Gray or even more of an off-white tone? Thank you!!
Hi Shirely,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that Purple Heath would be lovely with either Cloud Gray or Bucket Gray. I think that Cloud Gray would give you more of a punch and I like the contrast in color value between the two of them and it would make a lovely blanket!
Best,
Cassy
Hi there! 3 questions for you:
1. How many stitches would I need to increase to turn this into a throw rather than a baby blanket? I want to do it in Cotton Pure so I can wash/dry it.
2. How much extra yarn would you recommend I purchase?
3. How can I get the pattern without purchasing the “bundle”?
Look forward to hearing from you.
Hi Theo,
Thanks for reaching out! We are happy to help!
1. For the throw size using Cotton Pure, I would suggest casting on 374 stitches.
2. For the throw size, you will need 9 skeins of each of the two colors.
3. The free pattern can be found above! If you would like to print it or download it as a PDF, you can do so! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments. Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
Best,
Cassy
Hello!
Great blanket and I would love to make this. Can you explain to me what “tack down” means? Does it mean that you will knit for X number of rows and then tack down the progress and then start the double knitting again?
Thank you for your help.
Tina
Hi Tina,
Thanks for reaching out! The “Tack Down” portion of the pattern is still double knitting but with a slight stitch pattern variation which will cause one stitch of the opposite color to appear on the the outside of the blanket. If you read through the pattern, you will see that there are three stitch patterns, “Double Knitting,” “Tack Down,” and “Stagger Tack Down.” You will be alternating working one inch of the Double Knitting stitch pattern with one four row repeat of either Tack Down or Stagger Tack down – although all of these are Double Knitting, the Tack Down sections will bind the two layers together and create the adorable contrasting stitches on each side.
I hope that clarifies the directions! Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello, I really love your patterns, but could you please give metric needle sizes as well as US needle sizes? I live in Europe and sometimes find it confusing to convert the needle sizes. Thank you!
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in! We totally hear you regarding metric sizes and measurements. This is something that is currently under consideration, so we really appreciate your input! For this pattern, a US 6 needle is equivalent to 4mm needle, and a US 5 is equivalent to a 3.75mm needle.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I cannot do the long tail or the long tail tubular cast-on. Can I do knitted cast-on, but with a bigger-sized needle?
Hi Manisha,
Thanks for reaching out! A knitted cast on will be just fine, but we actually recommend casting on with a needle one size smaller if you are not doing the tubular cast on. Otherwise your cast on edge may end up a bit wider than the rest of the blanket!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
I really love this pattern …Do you think I could realize a scarf with this technic ? Should I change the yarns and how many stitches to cast on ?
Hi Nadine,
Thanks for writing in! I think you could adapt this pattern into a fantastic scarf! For a twelve inch wide scarf, I would cast on 114 stitches and follow the rest of the pattern as written.
Best of luck and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Which side is considered the “right side”? Is it the side that’s primarily Yarn A or B?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for reaching out! Although technically both sides are the right sides in the finished blanket, we refer to the side that is primarily Yarn B as the right side in our instructions.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
how can a person go from the 2 set up rows (which are turn(after using yarn A)/turn(after using yarn B)) to a “slide work” instruction and use yarn A now? They are on opposite sides….Really need help with visualizing this please
Hi Calla,
Thanks for reaching out! To do this step, you will have to be using a circular needle that has needle tips at both ends. Once you have finished working Set-Up Row 2 with yarn B, you are correct that you will have one tail of yarn at each end of the needles. You will then slide your work so the end that has yarn A available is at the tip of the needle and begin working from that side of the blanket.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am new to double knitting. All the videos on the web show that you bring both yarns across alternating knit and purl. Am I reading the instructions correctly that I only “work” one yarn for each row (leaving the second one behind)? I have done a few test swatches this way, and I keep getting a checkerboard pattern (sort of), instead of the solid colored knit. Hope you can help…I love the photos of the blanket and am dying to duplicate.
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that our instructions for Double Knitting use only one color per row – the two methods do produce the same fabric but our technique is just a bit more beginner friendly to help out knitters who are new to Double Knitting. I would suggest paying close attention to the position of the yarn when slipping the stitches as having the yarn incorrectly in the front or back of the slipped stitch will cause the wrong color to be visible on the outside of the blanket, but if you are still having trouble feel free to send a picture of your knitting to [email protected] so we can see just what is going wrong!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks Julianna,
I figured out my mistake. For my swatches, I was using an “odd” number of stitches, so the pattern was off. Back on track again. Thanks!
Hi Laurie,
I’m glad to hear it! Let us know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Julianna
Love this and bought enough for a throw. Now I’m back home and cannot figure out when the whole tack down thing takes place. Are there two different tack Downs? One staggered and one not? I may have over estimated my abilities. Thank you for any help you can give me.
Hi Dottie,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that there are two different sets of instructions for the Tack Down portion which will stagger the placement of the Tack Down stitches. When you are reading through the instructions, you will see that after the first 1″ of Double Knitting, you will work the instructions titled “Tack Down.” You will then return to double knitting for another inch, and then work the instructions titled “Stagger Tack Down.” You will then continue alternating “Tack Down” and “Stagger Tack Down,” with an inch of plain double knitting between each tack down section, for the rest of the blanket.
I hope that helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Julianna
This is a beautiful blanket and I want to make it but I do not understand the slide technique. I guess I’m a permanent beginner. I worked on scrap yarn and it was fine until I got to the slide. I’d hate to ruin beautiful yarn. Is it possible to use the regular technique to do this? Thank you.
Hi Diana,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately this stitch cannot be done without sliding your stitches to the other end of the needle, but it should be relatively straightforward! The pattern must be worked on circular needles or, for a small swatch, double pointed needles. When the pattern states to “slide the work” you will simply push all the stitches to the other end of the circular or double pointed needles so that the next row will begin at the same edge the previous row did. You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to work the next row is magically there waiting for you!
I hope that helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Julianna
Just started this beautiful blanket. Having one problem. When the right side is facing, the left edge is open, but the right edge is joined. I’m not twisting the colors, bringing them up the same way on both sides. Any ideas or suggestions? Just finished row 1 of the stagger tack down section. Thank you!
Hello Gail,
Thank you for reaching out! The way that each side is connected is by carrying the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn when you change colors. This happens in row 2 and row 4 so every other row you will be carrying up your yarn to connect the front and back.
I hope this clears things up and let us know if we can further explain any of this.
Happy knitting!
Marilla
I am confused. This is my first time double knitting and I have just begun the tack down section. Row 1 completed. But when I turn the work, the yarn is not waiting for me – it is at the other end of the row. But the knitting so far, looks correct in that there are different colors on each side. Not sure how to proceed.
Hi and thanks for writing in! Is it possible that you did not end the first section with a full repeat of rows 1 through 4? If you ended when your work measured one inch but did not end on row 4, Yarn B would be in the wrong position for the tack down section!
I hope that helps – if not please let us know!
Best,
Julianna
Help! I’ve been having trouble getting the two sides to ‘stick’. I’ve tried taking the yarn in the back, up with the working yarn but that still didn’t work. It’s doing my head in. Do you have a video or can share an external link of how this should be done? Many thanks!
Hello Serlina,
Thank you for reaching out! Are the two sides of your blanket completely detached, or are there just small gaps? Carrying your yarn up is what makes the front and back stick together so there are small gaps on either side. As far as carrying your yarn up, It can be confusing, but the way to know if you are doing it correctly or not is if your old yarn is being trapped and carried up by your new yarn. I hope this gives a a bit pf clarity, but please let us know if you continue to have issues and we can further trouble shoot with you.
Warmly,
MArilla
Hi another question from me! I’m making a swatch with 34 stitches. I had no problem knitting the first Tack Down rows, however when it comes to the Stagger Tack Down section how should I go about knitting those as I only have 34 stitches? Thank you
Hello Serlina,
Thank you for reaching out! Staggering your next row will depend on where you placed your tack downs in your first row. I would aim for them to be in the middle of the previous tack downs to give your self a nice even stagger.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi.
Love this pattern and just finished knitting the whole blanket. My only disappointment is with the way the side edges look . Since I have already finished the whole blanket, I need a finishing technique to hide all the unevenness and booboos along the side edges. Can you please make a suggestion for neatining up the sides and joining the front and back? I was just sloppy about carrying the yarn and it shows. I was thinking of a blanket stitch, but I really want to hide the uneven parts of the side edges. Any suggestions will be most appreciated! Thank you.
Marjory
Hello Marjory,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations on being done with your new blanket! If you are interested in covering up the whole edge I would suggest adding an attached I-cord border. We use this method on lots of our blankets and it gives you a clean polished look.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
How woulkd you attach the I-Cord after already finished the blanket? I love this idea!
Hi Brenda,
Thanks for reaching out! The link Marilla included above leads to a tutorial on creating an applied I-Cord to finish the edge of your blanket.
Happy knitting
Julianna
I am doing a “test piece” before I start the blanket and my side edges are also uneven (messy). Is there a way to avoid this and make my edges look like yours?
Hello Pat,
Thank you for reaching out! Is the main issue that the selvedge is loose, or does there seem to be something else going on as well? I would make sure that you are carrying your yarn up in back when switching colors and try your best to keep consistent tension. Blocking can also help neaten your edges, our sample was blocked. When you are finished with your swatch I would tray blocking it and seeing if that eliminates the issue.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
I figured out that the cast on I used didn’t work exactly with you instructions. I was able to skip set up row 2 and go to row 1. I find this way of doing double knitting much easier than knitting and purling with both yarns at one time. However, I can’t figure out how to use your method and make patterns in the knitting. Does it only work for a solid color on each side? Thank you.
Hi Savanna,
Thanks for reaching out! You absolutely can work charts or color patterns using this method of Double Knitting! We just released our Verse + Reverse Scarf and a video tutorial on our method which may be just what you are looking for!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I want to apply this technique to your toque pattern for a basic rolled edge toque.
I’m a slightly past beginner knitter, but would I just cast on the number of stitches I would need for the toque, then follow the same 4 row repeat as described above?
I also cannot wait to make this blanket! It’s my new winter project!
Hi Ash,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, I think your hat idea might be a bit complicated. Double knitting does not roll, which is not necessarily a bad thing, but you will not have a rolled edge on your hat. This stitch pattern only works when knitted flat, and double knitting can be challenging to seam nicely. Although we do not have instructions for working double knitting in the round, you may want to search “Double knitting in the round” to find instructions that you can use for a hat. You will also have to look up how to work decreases in double knitting, since both layers have to be decreased at the same time.
This is quite a few techniques to learn and adapt, so if you are still new to knitting, I would recommend knitting a few plain hats and some simple double knitting, such as our blanket, first to get the hang of things, but when you are ready, a double knit toque would be lovely!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! I have just received my kit for this pattern and am so excited to start. This is a really silly question- for the long tail tubular cast on, are you casting on with two strands of yarn at the same time or are you splitting the colors and treating one color as the strand that you hold over your forefinger and the other color as the one that you hold over your thumb?
Hi Sydney,
Great question! We worked the Long Tail Tubular Cast On and set up rows with color A only – if you look closely at the pictures, you can see that the cast on edge has a concentrated band of color A on both sides of the blanket. It is possible to work a two color tubular cast on if you wish for a totally “edgeless” edge!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Is it necessary to knit a row before going to the first set-up row? Otherwise, it seems like you’d be knitting backwards since no stitches have been knit. A quick tutorial on the set-up row would be great, if possible.
Beautiful, beautiful pattern – thank you!
Hi Chermia,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to do a video tutorial of this; however, you should be able to go directly from the cast on to the first set-up row. You may be getting confused by the instruction at the beginning of the first set-up row to turn your work, since, if you have used a cable cast on instead of a long tail cast on, you will not need to turn your work to begin knitting the first row. Either way, you will simply begin this first set-up row by knitting in the same direction you normally would after completing the cast on.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is, of course, beautiful. Do you think this could work with Woolfolk Far & Sno respectively or Far only?
Thank you!
Hi Chermia,
Unfortunately, although I too am a huge fan of Woolfolk yarns, Far is a bit too heavy weight for this pattern as written, and Sno is a bit thin. I wouldn’t suggest using the two together as there would be a large discrepancy between the two weights, but if you don’t mind a larger blanket, Far would work wonderfully on a US 9 needle!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks, Julianna! I figured out the set-up rows about ten seconds after sending the email. I’m going to go for the Far on a – thanks again. Really appreciate it.
Love this blanket and can’t wait to start. Could you explain how to make a bigger size? I bought the recommended additional skeins but am wondering if cast on number changes or am I just doing more rows? I’m sorry if I didn’t understand the instructions in the pattern. Thank you for spelling it out for me!
Hello Elizabeth,
Thank you for reaching out! For the throw size you will be casting on 414 stitches and you will knit until your blanket measure 49 inches.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi!
I have a question regarding row 1 for the tracking down section. The instructions call for repeating (slip 1 wyif,P1) 9 times to last 8 stitches. The instructions after that state (slip 1 wyif, P1) 3 times. Does that not result in 2 stitches remaining? Sorry I’m still very new to knitting and I am unfamiliar with reading patterns still. Thank you!
Hello Marie,
Thank you for reaching out- I can help! After repeating (slip 1 wyif,P1) 9 times to last 8 stitches the pattern actually states “slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times” totaling 8 stitches.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I think I must have missed something. I’m maybe half way through the pattern now so no turning back now…my vertical edges aren’t connected. Is that how it’s supposed to be? What can I do to seal them? Thanks!
Hello Amy,
Thank you for writing! I think that what could be going wrong is that you are not carrying your old yarn up the selvedge when changing colors. When changing colors you will carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn, this will connect the front and back of the blanket at each point that you change colors. If you do not do this you will have a front and back completely disconnected from one another. This is a surprisingly tricky part of the pattern, but is explained in our video tutorial.
If you are far along on your blanket, and don’t want to rip out, you could begin carrying your yarn up now and seem the rest of the project. I hope this all makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Thanks Marilla! Yes seems I didn’t carry up =( . I have since done a few rows the right way and see it does close it up nicely. =) Should have read it more carefully! Thank you! Can’t wait to finish it for my daughter!
My question is regarding the gauge. I’ve been trying to reach your gauge of 21 sts = 4″ and end up with 21 = 3.5″. Even if I knit as loose as I can, I only get 21 = 3.5. I can get the gauge by knitting 26 sts = 4″. So, my question is should I just follow my gauge and in doing that, will I need more yarn? I purchased the kit for the throw, so I already have the extra skeins. Any help you can give me is much appreciated. I’m anxious to get knitting! Thanks. This is a gorgeous blanket.
Chris
Hi Chris,
Thanks for reaching out and for the kind words! Are you working your gauge swatch in double knitting, and how many stitches are you casting on for your gauge? Double knitting turns out much looser than regular stockinette stitch, even when worked on the same needle size, so if you have done your swatch in ordinary stockinette using just one of the yarns, I would definitely try it again in double knitting. It may also make a difference that the Good Wool is somewhat thicker than the Mulberry Merino, so using both yarns in the double knit swatch will affect the overall gauge.
Also, whenever you are knitting a gauge swatch, you will get a more accurate measurement by casting on more stitches than the four inch gauge and measuring the center four inches. Any stitch, but especially double knitting, gets distorted on the edges, so including the 3 or 4 stitches on the selvedge will give you an inaccurate gauge measurement. I would recommend casting on 27 to 30 stitches and working for at least 3 or 4 inches in double knitting before measuring the center four inches of your swatch to see if it turns out closer to our gauge.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you for responding. I have been knitting my swatch in double knit, casting on 26 st. I started with size 6 needles, switched to #7, and still ended up with ~3.75 inches. I’ve also gotten different results using the two different yarns and knitting two swatches in double knit. I’m now going to follow your sage advice and knit a larger swatch , starting with #6 needles and go from there. If my only solution is to swap out the Good Wool Driftwood grey and replace it with a Mulberry Merino similar color. Now to knit a new swatch!
Firstly, my comment re “your sage advice” was meant as a complement. I’ve never thought about doing a large stitch count to get a more accurate gauge. Ergo, I thought it was brilliant! So, I knit swatches in both yarns. I started out with #6 needles, 30 sts, and still didn’t get 4″. So I went up to #7, knit both yarns into two swatches and achieved a 4″ width. All 30 sts, So, now I’m thinking I need to recalculate yards needed to finally get to the knitting of this beautiful throw. I do need help with that. Is that the right direction to go?
Hi Chris,
Hmm, it sounds like you are a tight knitter indeed! You could continue to go up needle sizes to see if you can get the correct gauge if you wish, but if you are happy with the hand of the fabric at 30 stitches to 4 inches, you will need to cast on 594 stitches for the throw size. Good Wool has quite a bit of yardage so I think you will be fine with just one extra skein, but I would purchase two extra Mulberry Merino to be on the safe side, for a total of 5 Good Wool and 8 Mulberry Merino. For both yarns, just in case it turns out you don’t need quite that much, any unused skeins can be returned for store credit as long as they are unwound.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m having trouble understanding the tack down row instructions because I feel like my tack downs are too close together compared to your picture of the blanket. When the instructions say: *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from *, am I supposed to do the slip 1 wyif, p1, immediately followed by the bracketed slip 1 wyib, p1 and then repeat these two steps across the rest of the row until the last 8 stitches? I think I’m getting confused by the “repeat 9 times,” instead of just saying to last 8 stitches. I feel like I’m missing something and my tack downs are not spaced properly. Thank you.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Reading stitch patterns like this can be a bit confusing! Both brackets and asterisks indicate pattern repeats, and in situations like this where you have brackets within an asterisk marked section, you will be working a repeat within a repeat. In other words, for this pattern, you will slip 1 wyif, p1, then repeat the bracketed stitches, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, then go all the way back to the beginning. This should result in your tack down stitches, which are created by the slip 1 wyif, p1, being separated by 9 stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Question: In the Cast On and Setup section, the directions for using the Long Tail Tubular Cast On say to omit the foundation rows. What are the foundation rows? Is this the same as the set up rows that follow in this section?
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! The Long Tail Tubular Cast On instructions include two foundation rows that are normally part of the cast on; however, for this pattern, you will skip those foundation rows and go directly to the Set Up rows in the pattern.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, In the first set up row, should the k1s be knit through the back loop in order to mount the stitches correctly?
“Set-Up Row 1 (wrong side): Turn work (see Notes) and with Yarn A,*k1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to end of row.”
Thanks, Carole
Hi Carole,
Thanks for writing in! Although you would normally knit through the back loop on the first foundation row of a long tail cast on, it isn’t necessary for this pattern!
Best,
Julianna
Hello – this blanket looks beautiful, though the color options for the Mulberry Merino are just not what I am seeking. I was wondering if you could recommend any other yarns to use in place of the Mulberry Merino that may have a wider color selection. I think I am after a deep ocher or mustard yellow or something in that color family.
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend substituting either Anzula Cricket or Brooklyn Tweed Arbor for the Mulberry Merino – both come in a wide range of colors, and Arbor has several mustard tones that might be what you are looking for!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I just received the yarn for this blanket and can’t wait to cast on! I ordered the persimmon Mulberry Merino and heirloom white Good Wool. Is the Mulberry color safe? Just wondering if I need to do anything with the orange before I start knitting.
Thank you!
Hi Dede,
Thanks for reaching out! We haven’t had any complaints or experienced any color bleeding with Mulberry Merino ourselves, but it couldn’t hurt to test it out a bit before beginning! If you are concerned, you could try rubbing a piece of white cloth on the skein to see if any color “crocks” or rubs off onto the cloth, or snipping off a small piece and soaking it in warm water to see if any dye bleeds into the water. It’s also a good idea to wash the finished blanket with a Shout Color Catcher just to be on the safe side, but I don’t think you should have any problems!
Best,
Julianna
I’ve just finished a small swatch for this blanket – love the look, but my “tack downs’ aren’t as neat and clean as these! I’ve tried unsuccessfully to upload a picture, both here and Ravelry, which would help describe what i’m getting. My “tacks” aren’t only a small line, they seem to include a bit of the underlying stitch, so they aren’t very clean. I’m getting this on both right and wrong side! Any idea what I’ve done wrong? Many thanks!
Hi Robin,
I’m so sorry to hear you aren’t happy with how your blanket is turning out! You can send us a picture by email at [email protected] and we will be happy to take a look and hopefully figure out the problem.
Best,
Julianna
hi! i’m jumping into this thread because i’m having the same issue with my tacks. i just finished the first round of tacks on each side. it looks like there is a “purl” showing/bleeding through from the bottom of the tack, in the same color as whatever tack i’m on. not sure if that makes sense. i can’t figure out is this is a tension issue.
Hello Tova,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m sorry to hear your tacks are giving you grief. It is always tricky to know how to advise without seeing the blanket. My instinct is to agree that it could be a tensions issue. Your gauge might be loose which would cause everything to be a bit loose including the tacks. Is your gauge matching the reccomended 21 stitches and 30 rows per 4 inches in double knit stockinette stitch, using the larger needles?
I hope this helps and keep us posted!
Best,
Marilla
I, too, am having issues with my tacking stitches just as you described. Were you able to resolve this issue and if so, what was causing the problem?
Do I use both yarn A and yarn B when casting on? If not, how do I attach yarn B?
Hi Kathy,
Great question! You will cast on with only Yarn A and work Set-Up Row 1 in Yarn A. You will then join Yarn B to work Set-Up Row 2.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am getting close to needing to start a new ball of yarn, and started to think about weaving in. Usually I weave in on the reverse side, but there is no access to the reverse side. I’m guessing that in this case the stockinette weave-in would work best? Would I weave in one end in one direction and the other end in the other direction? I’m also thinking it may be important whether to start the yarn on a purl or knit row. Any suggestions? I read the “Weaving in Your Ends” tutorial.
Thank you in advance.
Hello Kim,
This is a great question. I would reccomend using the duplicate stitch from the outside of the project for an inch or two, and then bury your ends by inserting your tapestry needle into the open space inside of the blanket, bringing it up a few inches away, and then trimming your yarn close to the surface so the end will pop back into the blanket and disappear. I would also suggest making sure your yarn tails are on the outside or right side of the blanket so they are easier to find when you are done.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Would it make any sense at all to make this blanket with the same colored yarn on each side? I like how it is stockinette on both sides and I have enough yarn to make the throw (4,000 yards) in one color.
I guess I just want to know if you think this would be a waste of time or if it would be worth the effort. I recognize that it may be more challenging in one color not being able to tell which yarn goes with which side.
Thank you so much,
Ericka
Hi Ericka,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this blanket would be lovely using the same color for both sides! Although you wouldn’t get the little pops of color, it would still be a wonderfully thick and squishy double layered blanket, and the tack down rows would still add a bit of quilt-like texture. You are correct that it will be a bit trickier to keep track of your rows and stitches, but it would probably also be harder to spot errors in a single color blanket!
Best of luck, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
This *might* be easier/faster if you’re doing one color: using only one skein (& 1 strand of yarn) at a time, do this on every single row (turning at the end of each row) *K1 WYIB, sl 1 WYIF*
WYIB = with yarn in back
WYIF = with yarn in front
That will also magically turn into two sided fabric.
Sorry – make sure you have an even number of stitches
Hi, I have two questions for you:
1) I’m new to double knitting. The more I try to figure out what you mean by the gauge, the more confused I get. Is it 21 sts per side = 4”? Meaning, that there are 42 loops on my needle (21 per side). Or, are you counting 21 sts for both A & B sides inclusive – or 10.5 sts per side? I did see your previous response to someone else recommending casting on extra sts to avoid miscounting the edges.
2) Could you pls recommend a lighter-weight pair of yarns? I’d love for the final result to be more drapey, like a wrap that Wouldn’t be out of place on a cool summer night vs a lap blanket. But I love the idea of having a rougher side and a softer, more-refined side. I’m thinking to target a final dimension of ~30” x 72”.
Hello Norki,
Thank you for reaching out! This can certainly be confusing with double knitting, but your gauge is going to work the same way it would with any other project. This means that you are counting how many stitches you are getting per inch on your knitted fabric. Both sides of your blanket should be getting 21 stitches per 4 inches. I hope this makes sense and let me know if you have any further questions regarding gauge.
To answer your second question, I think this is a lovely idea. If you decide experiment with this your gauge will be a very important tool. This is because if you use a thinner yarn your gauge will shrink. It will also take a bit of experimentation to get a texture you are happy with. I think that our Linen Quill and Line Weight could be a nice pairing. Once you decide on your yarn you will need to knit up a gauge swatch to figure out how many stitches per inch you are getting, Once you have these numbers you can use them to calculate a cast on number.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I would love to make this in a throw, however I have so much yarn I hate to buy more! Would it work to use DK on both sides? Thanks:)
Hi Nadine,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you could certainly use two strands of the same weight yarn for this blanket! Although our Mulberry Merino is a sport weight and Good Wool is a light worsted/heavy DK, they knit up to a very similar gauge, so if you are substituting yarns, I would recommending using two yarns that are the same or nearly the same weight and gauge.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! My husband purchased me this kit in persimmon orange, and I’m wondering if I should pre-wash the orange since it’s so high contrast with the good wool. Is this a recommended step so the orange doesn’t bleed when I block it?
Thanks, Isabel
Hi Isabel,
Thanks for reaching out! We haven’t had any reports of Mulberry Merino bleeding, and we only recommend re-fixing dye for our hand dyed yarns such as Posy. Since Mulberry Merino is not hand-dyed, there is no need to take any extra steps!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I love the tack down! For those of you who are continental knitters it’s relatively easy (after you get used to it) to hold both yarns together and “pick” the correct yarn for the k or p. I have tried the slipped stitch but it take so long (2 rows for every one). I’m definitely going to adopt the alternating tack down, thanks for the suggestion!
I double knit using two strands. One in each hand. I Continental knit with my left and English with my right.
I wish this pattern was written for knitting/purling all the way across indicating after how many stitches you reverse the colors for a tack down.
Beautiful blanket.
That’s a really unusual way of double knitting – I’ll bet it’s leas confusing for people who don’t wish to work with the two strands at the same time. Very clever. Thanks for the pattern.
love this pattern so much. i am going to attempt with some leftover bigger yarn i have. natural and gray. if i need to reduce pattern by half, how do i calculate total stitches to cast on? thank you so much!
Hi Kathryn,
Thanks for reaching out! To adjust the cast on for a thicker yarn, I would start by knitting a gauge swatch in pattern. You can then multiply your stitches per inch by 28 or your desired width, round to the nearest multiple of 10 plus 7 stitches, and double that number to determine how many stitches to cast on.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
This is my first double knit project and I am excited to start. My first question is Why use a smaller needle when doing a long tail cast on? Do you then switch to size 6 needle to continue? I am thinking ahead to the bind off and it seems like the bind off for long tail
Cast on is easier than the Kitchener stitch for tubular cast on. Also when casting on with one color yarn should I be thinking double the amount normally needed for casting on. Thank you in advance for answering.
Hi Camille,
Thanks for reaching out! Since half the stitches from your cast on will be going into each side of the blanket, if you don’t use a smaller needle to cast on, the cast on edge will turn out twice as wide as the rest of the blanket and have a rippled or wavy appearance. We have already accounted for this, so there is no need to change the cast on amount. You are correct that you will switch needles immediately after casting on! It is true that a Long Tail Cast On and Three Needle Bind Off are a bit easier than the Tubular Cast On and Kitchener stitch, so they are a bit more beginner friendly!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Can this be knitted in Alpaca Pure?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly knit this blanket in Alpaca Pure, though you would have to do a bit of swatching and math to figure out how to adjust the pattern for an aran weight yarn. First you will need to knit a gauge swatch in the double knitting pattern using Alpaca Pure and a US 9 or 10 needle. You can then multiply your stitches per inch by 28 or your desired width, round to the nearest multiple of 10 plus 7 stitches, and double that number to determine how many stitches to cast on.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I have seen videos of double knitting done with both colors worked simultaneously, resulting in more work per row, but less rows to work. Do I just do the tack downs in the opposite color when I get to them, if I decided to follow this technique?
Thank you.
Hello Sharon,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m not sure how the tacking down would work using this technique, because in our blanket we use the slipped stitches as a to tack down by slipping in the front rather than the back.
Sorry I don’t have a solution for you!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
When using the Long Tail Tubular Cast On you use the larger needle (Size 6). When using the Long Tail Cast On, use the smaller needle (Size 5). So, let’s say, I am doing the Long Tail Cast On, do I continue on using the Size 5 needle until the blanket is finished?
To make the width of the blanket larger, cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it. So, let’s say I am making it bigger than a Throw Blanket and, just as an example, I am going to add 34 (10 + 7) to 414 stitches. But since I have to double the add on stitches, I will be adding 68 stitches. Is that correct?
Thank you.
Hi and thanks for writing in! If you are using the Long Tail Cast On, you will use the smaller needle for the cast on only, and immediately switch to the larger needle for the set-up rows and rest of the blanket. And yes, you will need to double the amount you add, since half the stitches will go on the front of the blanket and half on the back!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi! I would like to knit this blanket for each of my grandchildren but in a superwash/washable or washable cotton. I love the colors of this yarn so would like something which has a variety of bright colors. I noticed that the gauge used in the blanket bundle is a little different between the two yarns called for. In addition to a sport weight, a DK weight yarn would be fine and maybe even a better choice for me since I want the blanket to be a bit larger than the pattern’s corresponding throw size. I would be knitting for a single size bed. Washable is the only requirement. Thanks!
Hello Christine,
Thank you fore reaching out! What a wonderful project. A great superwash wool option would be Anzula’s Cricket or Koigu’s Kersti. For a cotton option I would suggest Cascade’s Pima Cotton. It could be really beautiful to do one side in cotton and one in wool!
I hope this helps and happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi guys, I love all your work!
Would it be possible to write up instruction for a cowl of this pattern?
Hi Judy,
Thank you for your interest in this pattern! While we don’t have a cowl version I will certainly pass along your suggestion.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am shopping the site for a baby blanket to give as a gift in Louisiana and I love this one, but I need something that is washable and suitable for the hot and humid Louisiana climate. Are there yarn options other than double wool that I can purchase for this pattern? If not this pattern, can you recommend another pattern and yarn?
Hello Jewel,
Thank you for reaching out! Because this blanket is double knit, it is going to be warm regardless of the fiber used. I would reccomend checking out our Cozy Corners Blanket or our Half + Half Blanket.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi,
After I do the long tail tubular cast-on and turn to knit the first stitch of the first row, I’m not sure if I should put my needle in the front or the back leg of the stitch. The tubular cast on video shows the needle going into the back leg (in order to orient the stitches correctly). Is that how I do all the knit stitches (through the back leg) at least until they’re all oriented correctly?
Thank you!
Also, since this blanket is double knit, does it take twice as long to knit as a regular blanket, since it’s essentially two blankets (two sides)?
Also along those lines, in general, should I always knit or purl in such a way as to get my stitches oriented correctly? If a “leg” is in the back, should I always stitch into the back to get it oriented correctly? Will that fix the orientation for the rest of the stitches?
Thanks again!
Hi Marcia,
Thanks for writing in! The only time you will need to knit through the back loop is in the first set-up row of the tubular cast on – once that is complete, you will knit and purl all stitches in the front leg for the rest of the blanket, unless you have accidentally twisted a stitch and need to correct it. You will be slipping many stitches throughout the pattern, but all stitches should be slipped purlwise so they stay correctly oriented on the needle. Many people do find that double knitting takes longer than regular single-thickness knitting, although I don’t know if I would say it takes twice as long. Since you have to move your yarn back and forth from the front of the work to the back for each stitch, I would say it takes about as long to knit as a large piece in 1×1 ribbing would take.
I hope that clears everything up, and happy knitting!
Julianna
For me, this blanket DEFINITELY is taking twice as long to make. I am an average to fast knitter, knit for an average of two hours every single day. Started this in mid May for a baby due in mid July. I am STILL working on it and have at least 8 inches to go before binding off and, yes, likely adding an I-cord edge to clean up the occasional wonky side edges. The end product is beautiful, but I don’t think I would ever knit this project again. I am SO ready to move on and SO behind on my next project goal!
Hi Julianna, thanks for your answers! If I used two worsted weight yarns, would that make my blanket way thicker and bigger than the one here? ( I knitted a tiny sample of the blanket and 21 inches is already 2 and 3/4inches long)! I’d like to use the worsted weight yarns that I have but I don’t want a bigger blanket. Would it help to use a size 6 needle, or does not that not work with worsted weight yarns? Or should I cast on less stitches? About how many stitches should I cast on to make it as small as your blanket?
Thanks again!
P.S. I was thinking about using the Cascade 220 heather yarns
Hi Marcia,
A worsted weight yarn is quite a bit thicker than the yarns we used, so yes, you will end up with a larger and heavier blanket. Going down to a US 6 would make it turn out a little smaller, but the fabric would be much denser and stiffer because of the tight gauge, so I would recommend casting on fewer stitches to change the size of the blanket. To determine how many stitches to cast on, you will need to measure your stitches per inch on one side of the sample you made, and multiply that number by 28 inches for the baby blanket or 39.5 inches for the throw. Next, you will need to round that number to the nearest multiple of 10 plus 7 stitches, and then double that number since it is a double sided blanket. With Cascade 220, I would use a US 7 or 8 needle, and I’m sure it will make a really lovely blanket!
Best,
Julianna
Dear Julianna,
I hope you can help me. A bit of a silly question. I’m practicing the double knitting, and it seems to be going well. Easy once you get the hang of it. But is is there a way by looking at the work to remember which is yarn A and which is yarn B. If I don’t take a break, its fine, but the following day ………..
Thank you for the tutorial, it is wonderful.
kind regards,
Myra
Hi Myra,
Thanks for writing in! Since both sides of the work look the same other than the colors being reversed, the only way to tell which color is which is by checking the cast on, which should be all in Color A. Or, if you have printed the pattern, you could write yourself a note to keep things straight!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Would this pattern work ok with the cotton pure yarn on both sides?
Hi Tahnee,
Great question! Yes, Cotton Pure would be a great option for this blanket, and there’s no reason not to use the same yarn on both sides! As always, when substituting a different yarn, I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch before beginning the blanket.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I am almost finished with this incredibly beautiful blanket. I have enjoyed making it and have put a lot of love into every stitch. My edges look beautiful too! The end of the pattern says to knit to the end of staggered tackdown and then finish with another inch but if I knit to row 4 of staggered tackdown which will have me going in 8 stitches to tackdown. The first tackdown at the beginning has you going in 3 stitches. What I’m trying to say is shouldn’t the last tackdown row be the same as the first- in 3 stitches?
Hi Camille,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m so pleased to hear how happy you are with your blanket! We chose to end with a Stagger Tack Down row, but it would be a bit more symmetrical to end with a regular Tack Down row, so if you prefer to end the blanket that way you certainly may!
Best,
Julianna
the throw looks to be 39 1/2 X 50 any suggestions for cast on stitches and additional yarn to get closer to around 45X 58 or something in that area? with the double kitting is it really too heavy to make bigger than the throw size of the 39 1/2 X50. Thank you, your projects are such an inspiration!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for writing in! While double knitting does create a blanket that is twice as thick as a regular stockinette blanket, I don’t think it would be too thick at all in a larger blanket – it will actually be quite cozy and wonderful to cuddle with! For a 45 inch by 58 inch blanket, you will need to cast on 474 stitches, and it will take 6 skeins of Good Wool and 8 skeins of Mulberry Merino.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Is it possible to make this blanket in a king size? How many stitches would I cast on? Thanks
Hi Kimberly,
Great question! Yes, although it would be quite an undertaking, you could definitely knit a king size blanket using this pattern, and it would be magnificent! A typical king size coverlet would be 100″ by 86″ so you would need to cast on 1,054 stitches, and you would need 25 skeins of Good Wool and 33 skeins of Mulberry Merino.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I would love to make this but either I missed something or I am just dumb but it says to cast 2 hundred and something stitches . Am I holding both yarns together and casting on ?
Hi Constance,
Thanks for writing in, and no need to beat yourself up – we’re always here to answer any question, big or small! You will be using just Color A to cast on 294 stitches for the small size of this blanket, and will add in Color B on Row 2.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
From your wonderful tutorials, I have recently discovered the wet splicing technique for joining a new ball of yarn and I absolutely love it. To the point that I am going to re-knit my completely finished crib-size double seed stitch blanket in super soft merino (17 skeins, ugh) because I’m so unhappy with how it looks once I wove in the ends my old way. Can I use wet splicing for this blanket? I imagine that Good Wool can be wet spliced, but can Mulberry Merino be wet spliced, given the silk content? Thank you so much!
Glenda
Hi Glenda,
Great questions – thanks for reaching out! Both Good Wool and Mulberry Merino felt beautifully, and so a wet splice would absolutely work! I’m so happy to hear that our tutorials helped you discover this trick, it’s a really good one!
Best,
Cassandra
Thank you! Just ordered my yarn in Winter Grass and Inlet Blue! Super excited to get started!
Glenda
I love the idea of this blanket. I’ve been practicing your Double Stockinette stitch. I’m only a step or 2 above a beginning knitter but I think I have mastered it. My youngest grandson has been waiting for his blanket from Grandma for 5 years. His brother and cousins had theirs when they were much younger. I feel terrible having him wait so long. I have promised his blanket will have a big soccer ball in the center. I would like it to be about 50″ by 72″. I have 2750 yards of Chunky Superwash Merino plus 275 yards each of black and white for the ball.
But I do not know where to begin and I can’t find anyone to help. He is 14 and I am 75. I’m afraid, if I don’t get started, I won’t be around to finish the blanket and he’ll be a grown man remembering he was the only grandchild without his blanket!
Is it possible for you to make a pattern for me? Or do you know someone who would? I would of course pay for the work.
Hi Nita,
Thank you so much for reaching out! Your grandson’s blanket sounds like a true labor of love! I’m afraid we don’t have the resources to create a pattern for you, but I’m happy to provide you some guidance in creating your own! The first step will be to knit a gauge swatch in double knitting stockinette stitch using your chosen yarn You can then use your stitches and rows per inch, along with your desired finished blanket size, to determine how many stitches wide and rows long your blanket will be. After that, I would suggest printing a reference picture of a soccer ball and charting out your design on graph paper! You may have to piece together a few pieces of graph paper to create a chart large enough for your blanket, but once you have the size outlined, you can then use colored pencils to fill in the shape of the soccer ball. Once you have the soccer ball charted out, you can cast on! Keep in mind that in double knitting, the back of the blanket the colors of the blanket will be reversed, which probably won’t be a problem for the soccer ball itself, but you may want to add an alternate color for the background of the design.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, I’ve purchased the bundle and pattern for the throw, but am thinking I’d like to make a pillow for a chair or couch. I’m thinking of using one side for the front of the pillow, the other for the back. Threee questions: Is this a waste of a wonderful bundle? And (if not) how would you suggest I proceed? Would this amount of yarn be enough for two pillows?
I bought this kit to learn about double knitting, and I’m sure I’ll love the throw if the pillow(s) is inadvisable.
Thank you for your thoughts. Beautiful pattern. I’ve loved it for a long time.
Hi Theresa
Thanks for reaching out! The finished throw blanket measures 39 1/2 X 50 inches. I would measure your pillow forms and make sure 2 of them (with front and backs) can fall in these parameters. If you aren’t going to double knit the bundle you would be able to knit 2, 39 X 50 shapes. Bundles can be used to knit anything that makes you happy! We try our best to choose colors that would work for the specific project, but our customers get creative and use them in many other designs.
So glad you love the pattern! I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
Best
Jessica
is there anything like this double knit in a crochet stitch?
Hi Sandy,
Great question! Although we don’t have a tutorial or any projects for this technique, you might be interested in Double Face Crochet. It doesn’t look quite the same, but it does create a double thickness fabric with different colors on each side of the work! You should be able to find several videos demonstrating this by searching for “Double Face Crochet” in your preferred search engine.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
When I do double knitting there’s no slip st. I cast on with both colours then knit first st colour A then next stitch I purl colour B. Right across the row.
Why is this pattern done differently?
Hi Rita,
Thanks for writing in! We use a variation of Double Knitting that only uses one color per row – the two methods produce the same fabric but our technique is just a bit more beginner-friendly to help out knitters who are new to Double Knitting! If you are already comfortable with your usual method, it should be fairly straightforward to knit this blanket using whichever method you prefer!
Best,
Julianna
I love this pattern and have loads of Sweetgrass yarn. Would I be able to use that doubled?
Thanks !
Hi Renee,
Great question! I think that sounds like a wonderful idea! Sweetgrass held double might be a little thicker than either Mulberry Merino or Good Wool, so I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch in pattern using a US 6 or 7 to see which needle size you prefer. If necessary, you can then adjust the cast on based on your stitches per inch!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
what a stunning blanket!!!
Will it work if I knit the blanket with the double face technique holding and working both strands of yarn at same time, so I won’t need to slide the work? And how about the tack down?
Love 4 palettes and the difficult part is to choose one 🙂
Your answer will be appreciated .
Kind regards
Hellena
Hi Hellena,
Great question! Yes, if you are already familiar with the alternate method of double knitting that uses both colors at the same time, you can certainly use it for this blanket! For the tack down row, you will simply “switch” your colors for a pair of stitches when indicated by a “Slip 1 wyif, p1” in Row 1 of the Tack Down or Stagger Tack Down instructions. Once you have done the first tack down row, it should be quite intuitive to see how to do the rest!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I’ve recently resumed knitting. Biggest project was a sweater years ago. 1. How advance do I need to be to take this project on? 2. Do you have kits for a mustard & a royal blue throw. Sorority colors
Hi Karen
Thanks for writing in! This blanket could be worked using 2 colors of Mulberry Merino and still be stunning. I think Mustard Seed and High Tide would look great together, and you would need 4 skeins of both. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting
Jessica
I don’t know if I understand how to figure out the stitch count if I want to add size. The way I read it is multiple of 10+7 doubled. Ie. say 40+7=47 doubled 94. 94 is the number I add to my initial cast out with color A??
Hi Christina,
It sounds like you’ve nearly got it! The overall cast on number needs to be a multiple of 10 + 7 doubled, as you have calculated; however, if you are adding to our cast on number of 294 or 414, those numbers are already multiples of 10 + 7 doubled, so you need to add multiples of 20 (or 10 doubled) to those numbers. The math can be tricky, so whatever number you arrive at, I would recommend double-checking that it fits the multiple before you get started!
Best,
Julianna
Love this blanket! I’d love to make it with a lightly finer gauge – perhaps linen quill? How would you recommend changing the stitch count and yardage for the ‘baby’ size?
Thanks!
Hi Haley,
Thanks for writing in! This blanket would knit up fantastically in Linen Quill! The best way to determine how many stitches to cast on is to knit a gauge swatch in double knitting on a US 4. You can then measure your stitches per inch on one side of the swatch, multiply that number by 28 inches for the baby size, and then round to the nearest multiple of 10 + 7 stitches and double that number to determine how many stitches to cast on.
I hope that helps, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I purchased this kit and have started and stopped and ripped at least 3 times because the tacks weren’t working and the gauge was off. I am trying again. So my gauge question. I finally (sorry I really avoided swatches and have learned my lesson) did a swatch on size 5 needles and it was correct. Once I used size 6 and realized it was huge. I cast on long tail (tried tubular and gave up) last night. 294 stitches appear to be over 40 inches long??? What am I doing wrong or will this work itself out with the double knitting??? I am a loose knitter. Second question, I took a class in double knitting online and wanted to also try 2 strand knitting rather than the slip method. I knit continental. Can I start with one method, say the slip one, and then go to the other method or does that throw it off???? I love it but am so worried and stymied by the size. I have read the comments and also had a wonky edge and will try to do it “right” again. First, though the gauge. Try size 4? I cast on with 5 should i drop to 4??
thank you. About to drive 7 hours and want to do this project as well as finish the 4 triangle one which i love and do on airplanes!
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! The cast on should shrink to about half the width once you start working the double knitting stitch, but if usually cast on loosely as well as knit loosely, you might have to cast on using an even smaller needle than we did. When we were knit the blanket on a US 6, we used a US 5 for the long tail cast on, so since you are using a US 5 for the body of the blanket, you should cast on with a US 4; however, if the cast on edge of your swatch is rippling, even using the US 4, you may have to go down to a US 3.
You can switch from method to method, but I would also recommend practicing this on your swatch, just in case the two techniques result in slightly different gauges for you! To switch, you should make sure you end on an even numbered row, and Rows 1 and 2 from our pattern together would be equivalent to a Side A row, and Rows 3 and 4 would equal a Side B row.
I hope that clears things up and you’re able to stay busy knitting on your long drive!
Julianna
Thank you and i am inspired to try again and maybe do a decent size swatch to see if it “shrinks”
Will do that before the drive!!
I’m about to embark on the double knit blanket, but while knitting the swatch I am finding that it’s easy to get muddled about where in the four row knitting sequence I am. Is there a way to identify where I am? Eg, if the yarn for both colours are at the same end of the row, I must be at a particular place in the sequence?
Hi Anne,
Great question! If both yarns are at the same edge, that means you are about to start either Row 2 or Row 4, and you can easily tell which row it is by whether the right side or wrong side is facing you. It’s much more difficult, however, to tell the difference between Rows 1 and 3, so whenever possible, I would recommend waiting until after Row 1 or 3, or when both yarns are at one edge of the blanket, before putting down your work. If you have to stop after Row 2 or 4, you will probably need to use a stitch counter or make a note of which row is next!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Is this adaptable to use with Line Weight?
Hi Saskia,
Great question! Yes, I think with a few modifications, this blanket would be wonderful in Line Weight! To adjust for the smaller gauge, you will need to knit a gauge swatch in the double knitting pattern using Line Weight and a US 1 or 2 needle. You can then multiply your stitches per inch by 28 or your desired width, round to the nearest multiple of 10 plus 7 stitches, and double that number to determine how many stitches to cast on.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Do you have a guesstimate on how many skeins of Line Weight I’ll need of each color?
Hi Saskia,
It can be difficult to estimate how much yarn you will need when changing the gauge like this. The best way to find out is to knit your swatch, weigh it to see how many grams of yarn you used, and then divide the square inches of your desired blanket size by the square inches of your swatch. You can then multiply that number by the weight of your swatch to determine about how may grams total you will need for the blanket. Roughly, based on other fingering weight blankets we have made, you should have more than enough yarn with 4 skeins of each color for the crib blanket or 6 skeins of each color for the throw.
Best,
Julianna
I’m using the tubular cast on. Which row will be my first row?
Do I ignore the 2 set up rows and start with row 1 of the pattern?
Hi Yrezenia,
Thanks for writing in! For this pattern, after working the tubular cast on, you will not work the set-up rows that are part of our Tubular Cast On Tutorial. Instead, once your stitches are on the needle, you will immediately start with Set-Up Row 1 and Set-Up Row 2 from the blanket pattern above.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Most tutorials for the long tail tubular cast on are for knit/purl ribbing. Am I correct in assuming that, for this pattern, I would use a knit only tubular cast on?
Hi Alecia,
Thanks for reaching out! The Long Tail Tubular Cast On can actually only create alternating knit and purl stitches. Although it can be modified for a few variations of ribbing, I’m don’t believe there is a way to modify it to create only knit stitches. In this case, however, the alternating knit and purl stitches are correct! After you work the set-up rows in the pattern, the knit stitches of the cast on will go into one layer of the blanket, and the purl stitches will go into the other. It might be a little difficult to visualize, but once you’ve done the first few rows and can see the double knit fabric emerging, it should start to make sense!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am desperately trying to order a double knit blanket kit, but can’t figure out your site. Does that mean I’m not smart enough to knit that blanket?
Hi Cydney,
Thank you so much for reaching out! Not at all, we would be more than happy to help you place your order, and even happier to answer any questions you might have as you knit! If you’re still having trouble ordering, please reach out to us either at [email protected] or (800) 597 PURL!
Hi – if using the tubular cast on, when you say that you “omitted the foundation rows”, does that mean you didn’t do the typical tubular foundation rows, or do you mean you omitted the set-up rows that are listed as part of the pattern?
Hi Tanya,
Thanks for writing in! This means that you will skip the usual set-up rows that are part of our Long Tail Tubular Cast On tutorial, and instead work Set-Up Rows 1 and 2 that are part of the pattern above.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
On the Double Knit Blanket, if both sides appear the same, why is more of one color than the other necessary?
Is this project appropriate for and intermediate/advanced beginner?
Many thanks,
Francine
Hi Francine,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that the yardage for both sides of the blanket is almost exactly the same! However, Good Wool has quite a bit more yardage per skein than Mulberry Merino, so three skeins of Good Wool actually has more yardage than four skeins of Mulberry Merino. I definitely think this pattern would be worth a try! The stitches themselves are quite easy and there are only four rows to repeat, so you could always cast on any even number of stitches to knit a practice swatch and see if you enjoy the technique.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Is it possible to convert this blanket into a scarf using #3 light (weight 0.88 oz, 82 yards) cashmere yarn? I was thinking I could do a quarter width and double the length from the baby blanket measurement.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! You can definitely convert this blanket pattern to a scarf! If you are going to be substituting for another yarn just make sure to do a gauge swatch to make sure it is consistent with the pattern and cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches to insure you are working across the correct number of stitches for the pattern repeats!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Have just finished this double knit blanket (love !!!) however, my sides are not attached in some places. I guess I didn’t rotate my yarn correctly. Is there a way to fix this after the fact ? baby shower next month !!! HELP !
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! You can go back in with a tapestry needle and one of the yarns and seam up the spots that are not attached and then weave in the ends!
I hope this helps but if you have any more questions feel free to reach out!
Best,
Gianna
Hi. Can I use alternative tubular cast-on in lieu of long tail tubular cast-on? And if yes, will I need to modify any subsequent part of the pattern? Thank you.
Hi Kikko,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sure that alternative tubular cast-on would be fine for this pattern and shouldn’t cause any problems going forward with the pattern!
All the best,
Gianna
hi there. I would love to try my hand at this and turn it into a scarf. I saw the other comment about how to turn it into a scarf. if I follow the idea about doing the gauge and then 10 + 7 stitches, will the patter where the tac down comes in, just naturally happen on its own ?
also, can I ask if I wanted to substitute for another yarn, would there be one you would recommend (i.e. a 8 ply or 10 or 12ply) or I could choose either and then just do my gauge swatch and go from there?
Hi Kath,
Thanks for reaching out! Thats a great idea! You can easily adapt the pattern to be a scarf instead of a blanket! That is why we recommend the stitch multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, so that the repeat with the tack happens naturally! You can absolutely use a heavier weight yarn, I would recommend our Worsted Twist and Linen Quill Worsted!
All the best,
Gianna
What level knitting is this pattern?
Hi Marie,
Thanks for reaching out! I would categorize this pattern in the more intermediate knitting sections!
All the best,
Gianna
Planning to make this in the throw blanket size for a wedding gift! What length circular needles to you recommend for the throw size? 40 inch or 47 inch? Thanks!
Hi Hilary,
Thanks for reaching out! It is totally up to you, a 40 or 47″ would both work great for a throw size! Depending on what you like a 40″ will me a bit more closely packed and a 47″ will give you a bit more space!
All the best,
Gianna
I am practicing to knit this blanket with 34 CO stitches. I finished Row 4 and slid the work to start Row 1 of Tack-down section. I am facing the RS and have the main-color yarn to work with. However, my first stitch is the same color as that of the yarn. So if I slip it as the pattern instructs, I would have to purl the next stitch (non-main color). As a result, all my stitches in this row will be in the main color. What am I doing wrong??? Please help.
Hi Kikko,
Thanks for reaching out! It looks like you don’t have the right number of stitches in the cast on! The pattern only works over a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches. I would recommend trying your swatch again with a cast on of 37 instead!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi. I am confused about the number of cast-on stitches. For my practice swatch, I used 34 (10 + 7 and then doubled it, as in the pattern instruction). But you say it is a wrong number. Will you please explain when/why I need to double the number? Thanks.
Hi Gianna,
I’m having the same issue and confusion as Kikko. I also cast on 34 stitches for my swatch due to the instructions that say “cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it.” So, I doubled 17 to get 34.
I thought this was right too, because the final numbers to cast on are 294 (414), which I understood as:
294 = (140 + 7 )*2
414 = (200 + 7) * 2
So again, I thought the swatch would follow the same pattern:
34 = (10 + 7) * 2
Thank you in advance! I love this pattern and am excited to get started. I first tried double knitting for the first time using the tutorial on this website – it was great and it worked! But with my swatch of 34 stitches, I’m getting the wrong colors showing up on the wrong sides.
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for reaching out! So sorry, I made a mistake with my math! You are correct, and the cast on should be a multiple of 10 + 7 so your swatch of 34 should work just fine!
Apologies again for any confusion, happy knitting!
Gianna
Would this pattern work if I only use Mulberry Merino (2 different colours) for this pattern?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes you can definitely work this pattern with 2 shades of Mulberry Merino instead of Mulberry Merino + Good Wool!
All the best,
Gianna
Any concerns with color bleed when using a light and dark color? I’m thinking I’d like to make this in driftwood and red pine.
Hi Heather,
Thanks for reaching out! We haven’t heard of anyone having problems with color bleeding with Good Wool or Mulberry Merino. That sounds like a beautiful color combination! If you would like to be on the safe side, we offer a great tutorial on Re-Fixing Dye!
All the best,
Gianna
I am about to finish this beautiful blanket. It’s my second one and when I did my long tail bind off on the first I did it exactly as in the pattern using a smaller needle to slip the purl stitches onto. The end result was a too tight edge. Should I slip the knit stitches onto a larger needle and slip the purl stitches onto the recommended 5 or smaller?
Hi Camille,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so sorry about the delayed response- it seems your post ended up in the spam folder… I am happy to help with this! I would recommend binding off with a needle one or two sizes larger to insure that your bind off is not too tight.
I hope this helps and again my apologies!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am a pretty good intermediate knitter,
How long do you think this would take to knit up in the original baby blanket size?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for reaching out! Its hard to say exactly how long it would take you since that depends on the style of knitting you use and just how fast you work personally! I can say this blanket is a bit more time consuming since you are double knitting!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am trying to do a quick swatch- I did cast on 17 sts but it doesnt work- help! You say multiples of 10+7.
Thank you!
Hi Mindy,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, the stitch pattern works over a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches so 17 should work! What seems to be the problem/not working with your swatch? I am happy to help figure this out!
All the best,
Gianna
I will try again- the pattern does not work out with the right color being ready to be worked. I will report back after another try- much thanks!
Hi, I started my sample swatch with 44 stitches. I am having a problem when the row ends with a slip stitch, especially on the rows which have both A and B yarns together. My salvages are messy. I feel like I am doing something very wrong!
Another question: In your pattern, the gauge says 21 stitches =4 inches in double knit stockinette stitch, does that mean, 21 stitches per side, a total of 42 stitches on the needle?
Thank you for your help
Hi Esther,
Thanks for reaching out! For this blanket the pattern works over a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches doubled so that could be the reason your swatch is not coming out as expected, I would recommend casting on 54 stitches instead 10+10+7 x 2) The gauge is just the measurement of how many stitches per inch so in this case the gauge is 21 stitches = 4 inches which was measured on one side of the fabric and used to determine the number of stitches to cast on for the size you want to make. For example our crib size is 28 inches wide, so we used that formula plus the stitch multiple to calculate the cast on of 294 to get the gauge of 28″ wide. Our All About Gauge tutorial is an excellent resource to use and goes more into depth about gauge!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am planning to make this baby blanket with yarn I have. i calculated the yardage called for in the pattern, and came up with
2,423 yds, which seems like a lot for a baby blanket. Should I estimate by grams instead?
Hi Veronica,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Crib Size (baby) blanket we used approximately 229 grams or 878 yards of Good Wool and 352 grams or 870 yards of Mulberry Merino for this blanket, or 1,748 yards (581 grams) total!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I would like to make the baby blanket for a new great grandchild. Do I use the tubular cast on using two colors of the yarn, or one color then add the second color when it is called for?
Hi Lynne,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Long Tail Tubular Cast On you will cast on just using Yarn A, then you will work the Set-Up Row 1 with Yarn A as well, and the will switch to Yarn B for the Set-Up Row 2!
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’ve just about completed the first full section and so far looks great! I am in row 4 of the tack down section, and just realized that in the previous row (row 3 tack down) I must have k1, p1 instead of k1, slip 1 wyif. I have 3 stitches in yarn A when I should have 1 stitch in yarn A, a slipped stitch in yarn B, and another 1 stitch in yarn A. Is it possible to correct this now that I am in row 4 of tack down? Hoping I don’t have to pull out a full row and a half. Thank you!
Hi Sonia,
Thanks for reaching out! You should be able to drop down and fix the stitch by un knitting the purl so that the stitch is not worked and the yarn is in the front!
I hope this helps but please feel free to reach out with any more questions going forward!
Warmly,
Gianna
After several false starts with the tubular cast-on, I’m happily on my way; but I do have an instruction question about what to do following the staggered tack down. “Repeat Row 1 of Begin Double Knitting section to Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section until piece measures 37 (49) inches from cast-on edge ending with Row 4 of StaggerTack Down section.” Does this include the Tack Down section, or do I jump from Begin Double Knitting section then go right to Stagger Tack Down section?
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out! You work row 1 of the Begin Double Knitting section till you reach Row 4 of the Stagger Tack Down section including the Tack Down Section!
I hope this clears things up!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you, Gianna. Realized it as I was knitting. Should’ve figured this out for myself. Makes sense now.
Hi there and happy new year.
Ive been following your gorgeous website for several years and made some of the projects all beautiful.
I’m a continental knitter which sometimes poses a challenge following instructions but manage in most cases.
I discovered double knitting with you and decided to make a jacket with zipper for my husband, going well so far, I’m using cashmere so should me warm and light.
I’d like to suggest if possible to create a video or set of instructions using the continental method as you need literally half of the time, at least for me is simpler to follow, no 4 rows and turn/slide, just knit and purl.
Thank you again for this lovely space full of creativity.
Dri
Hi Dri,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! Also thank you for sharing your opinion, I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Is it possible to do this blanket the regular double knitting method? Would that change anything else? I’m used to doing double knitting with no slip Sts. I knit on the side facing me and purl the other side /colour Except of course when the other colour needs to show on my side. How would you do the end of row edge sts.?
Hi Rita,
Thanks for writing in! I’m sure you could work this blanket with the method you are discussing, however I would recommend working the pattern as written including the slip stitches so that you have a nice boarder for the blanket!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hey! I love this so far! Just want to ask when changing colors the note says to carry the next color up behind the old one. So are we “twisting” them on the side? It looks like there’s a few “gaps” between the colors on the side where I maybe didn’t twist the Yarns but I want to know if this is intended! Thanks!
Hi Darcy,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct you will “twisting” the yarn on the sides when carrying up the colors. This will close up gaps ion the sides leaving a nice tight edge! I would recommend checking out our Double Knitting tutorial to see exactly how this technique is worked!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Would like to try this pattern for a scarf. How many skeins of each color would I need please?
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for reaching out! What a cute idea! It would depend on how big you want the scarf, but you should be good to go with 3 skeins of Mulberry Merino and 2 skeins of Good Wool!
Warmly,
Gianna
I do not use wool for ethical reasons and am wondering if the double knit blanket can be knit with your soft, luscious Cotton Pure.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly use Cotton Pure for this blanket since it is also a sport weight yarn! The pattern should work as written but I do recommend working a gauge swatch first to insure you are consistent with the pattern or if there are any adjustments necessary!
Warmly,
Gianna
I would like to make this blanket in a larger size, approximately 50”x60”. How many skeins of each yarn do I need?
Thank you.
Hi Randy,
Thanks for reaching out! For our throw size (39 1/2″ x 50″) we recommend 4 skeins of Good Wool and 6 skeins of Mulberry Merino, for a 50” x 60” blanket I would recommend an extra skein of Good Wool (5) and 2 extra skeins of Mulberry Merino (8)
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
In referance to Double Knit Blanket pattern:
I have a number of cotten odds and ends from baby items and would like to create something useful. Could this technique be used to make kitchen hot pad squares using double point needles or must one use circular needle set? Thank you for this helpful website; I refer to it quite often for guidance.
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I think that sounds like a great idea, be sure to keep in mind that the to adjust the width of the project, you will need to cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it. You could certainly use double pointed needles instead of a circular needles, as long as you are able to “slide” the work!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
This is such a beautiful blanket; thank you for posting it. I am knitting a swatch to learn this new technique, which is going well. However, when I do the tack downs the effect is not well delineated because the purl stitch that’s done after the contrast color wrap shows through. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Fran,
Thanks for reaching out! Feel free to email our team a photo of your swatch to [email protected] and we can troubleshoot further from there! Did you watch the video tutorial? If not you can find that here: Double Knitting !
Warmly,
Gianna
Can this stitch be done in the round in order to make a hat?
Hi Tricia!
Thanks for reaching out! While we don’t currently have a pattern for one, you could absolutely use the double knit stitch in a hat pattern. I’d recommend checking out Ravelry to see if there are any double knit hat patterns there that you like!
I hope this is helpful, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Take care,
Kelsey
Hi Purl Soho! I have decided to make the double knit blanket out of season alpaca (baby alpaca) and Manos del Uruguay fino (extra fine merino and silk)…not the best selections for a baby blanket, but it feels nice and is very pretty. I have two questions: 1. What is the best method for adding skeins along the way? 2. I did the long tail cast on and the 3 needle bind off makes to tight of a bind off…making the final row very stiff and and elongated. Do you have any advice? Thanks for the pattern, it really is beautiful.
Hi Hilary,
Thanks for reaching out! That sounds like a beautiful baby blanket!
My advise for joining new skeins would be to try and only switch skeins at the beginning/ends of rows. Sewing in ends in the middle of the blanket will be more noticeable than if they will be on the edges. With the Manos Fino, you could also try Wet Splicing to avoid a few of those tails!
If you’re experiencing tightness in your three-needle bind off, I’d suggest going up a needle size (or maybe even 2) to help keep those stitches from getting too snug. You might want to work up a little gauge swatch and play around with different needles for the bind off, to make sure you find the one that works best for your personal tension.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
I haven’t been knitting very long so I was wondering if you had a video on this blanket.
Videos help me immensely!
Thank you so mych.
Hope everyone is doing well in your area!
Linda Deweese-Brown
Oklahoma
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! We do have a video tutorial on Double Knitting, which you can find right here.
I hope that helps clear things up for you, but please don’t hesitate to reach out if you run into any questions!
All the best,
Kelsey
Is the tack down a design element or is it there for structural reasons? I wondered if the tack downs could be eliminated. Thank you.
Hi Diane,
Thanks for reaching out! The tacks are both a design element and there for structural support. They are used to quite literally tack down the 2 layers so that the blanket lays flat! Without them you would have nothing connecting the 2 layers except at the edges.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
I increased the the wide to 528
414+ (50+7)x2=528. I’m working on the first tack down row and the last section before leave the 8 stitches, instead of 9 repeats I only have enough for 6 repeats. Is that correct? Do i need to adjust tack down row 2 ?
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for reaching out! I think the problem may be your total cast on amount, it should be a multiple of 10 plus 7 for the pattern to work correctly! However, you may be able to to adjust the tack down row to get the repeats to work over the amount of stitches that you have!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
How much Mulberry Merino is needed to finish the edges of the throw size with an i-cord?
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend 2-3 skeins to be sure you have enough to complete the boarder! If you don’t end up using all of the skeins, as long as they are in original condition, you can return them from store credit within 6 months!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello!
I am in a conundrum as I put my knitting down for the night and foolishly forgot to write down what row I was on, and now I cannot figure it out. I knit an entire row but I think I picked up the wrong colour!
When starting row 3, on what sides will each yarn be on (ie: both on the same side facing the wrong direction) and when starting row 4 which will they be on?
I know starting row 1 with the right side, and sliding the work that yarn A will be on one side and yarn B on the other.
I hope this makes sense!
Hi Megan,
Thanks for writing in! If you would like, you can email a photo of your work to our customer service team at [email protected] and they can help identify where you are and if there was an error!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Oh man. I’m confused from the start! Do you use both yarns in the cast on? Add yarn B in set-up row 2? Helllllllp meeeee!
Hi Katie,
Thanks for reaching out! No worries, I am happy to help! You will start off by casting on with Yarn A and then will bring in Yarn B for row 2 of the setup round!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi there,
I’m wondering if you have any tips for adding a new skein to make it easier to weave the ends in afterwards. For example, should I add a new skein on a knit or purl row? Will it mess up my selvedge edge somehow? Thanks!
Hi Allison,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest adding in a new skein on the “right side” of your work, it shouldn’t mess up your selvage especially when you weave in the ends once you finish!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I apologize if this question has already been asked. On the first set up row after the tubular cast on, should I knit through the back loop? The pattern doesn’t specify this, but when I watched the tubular cast on tutorial, it said to knit through the back loop on the first row because the stitches are twisted. Is it the same for the first set up row in this pattern? Or should I knit through the front? Or does it not matter?
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! For Tubular Cast On you will follow the setup row according to the tutorial, knitting through the back loop!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
In the bind off, I am told to separate the knit stitches and the purl stitches on to two needles, but I am not clear about what is a purl stitch in this case, since the two set up rows are both knit! I would think that if I separated the stitches by color that would work? And why not use Kitchener bind off no matter what cast on you used.
I really found the page to be quite confusing to follow, although once I’d rewritten it the pattern was quite simple. It would help to have just the pattern all in one place, instead of being surrounded by other writing and materiel. I also wrote a little diagram for myself that was very helpful to show what row I was on, as someone asked above.
Hi Abigail,
Thanks for reaching out! Essentially, when you have the right side facing you the front stitches, would be the knit stitches and the back stitches would be the purl stitches! You could also technically separate by color. As for the two different bind-off options, they depend on what cast-on method you used so that both ends are cohesive. If you used Long Tail Tubular Cast On then you will want to bind off in Kitchener Stitch, if you used a basic Long Tail Cast On then you will want to a 3-Needle Bind Off.
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi. I’m a new knitter so this may be a bit difficult for me, but I’m curious why there are more cast on stitches (414) when using larger needles and less (294) when using smaller needles. Also, with 414 cast on stitches at 5.25 stitches/inch (21/4″) the work would be much wider than 28″.
Thanks for you help.
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! The two numbers are not for casting on with different needle sizes, either cast on amount would be cast on to the same needle size depending on what cast on method you are using (you cast on to the US 5 if you are using the Long Tail Tubular Cast On method, or the US 6 if you are using the basic Long Tail Cast On method!) If you are a beginner, I would suggest sticking to the basic Long Tail Cast On for this blanket and using the US 6 needle.
The two numbers are simply for the two different sizes of this blanket! The 294 stitch cast on is for the crib/baby size blanket and the 414 stitch cast on is for the throw size of the blanket!
For future reference, when a pattern of ours has multiple size options, the different sizes will be shown in the parentheses in order of smallest to largest. SO, when you are following the pattern, if you are making the baby size you will follow the instructions for the number shown outside of the parentheses, or if you are making the throw size you will follow the instructions for the number within the parentheses!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Thanks so much, Gianna.
Another question. I have figured out the long tail tubular cast on, but want to know if when I turn the work for the 1st set up row do I slip with the needle in the front or back of the stitch?
Again, thanks!
Hi Robin,
No matter which cast-on method you use, you’re going to want to slip each stitch purlwise throughout the pattern, unless otherwise noted. This is true for the set-up rows as well! So, once you’ve completed the Long Tail Tubular Cast on and turn your work, with Yarn A you’ll knit the first stitch, bring your yarn to the front of your work, then insert your right-hand needle through the stitch from right to left (as if to purl, or “purlwise”) and slip it onto your needle.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Also, doesn’t the pattern say use the larger needles for tubular and not the smaller as you mentioned above?
Also, I found the answer to my previous question in the question section. Sorry to have asked again.
You are correct! If you’re working the Long Tail Tubular Cast-on, then you will want to use the larger needle size. If you’re working the basic Long Tail Cast on, then you’ll want to start with the smaller needles to cast on the stitches, and then switch to the larger size to work the first set up row!
Warmly,
Kelsey
At the end of set up row 1 you’re left with a slip stitch and have to turn the work to add the second color, so how do you add it AND secure the first color that’s hanging off of the 2nd to last stitch?
Thanks so much for your help. Getting there slowly but surely.
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest checking out our tutorial Adding a Ball of Yarn, the method is the same for this blanket, you will add the new color by knitting the first stitch after the slip stitch and this will secure the color in place. Just be sure to keep a long tail!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
OMG, I’m working along and have 4″ completed, but just saw that I left out 2 tacks downs on 1 side only about 4 rows prior to the row I’m working on! ;). Can I repair this?
Hi Robin,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, since the tacks are knit in place while double knitting, I don’t believe there is an easy way to drop down and repair this, I think the easiest solution would be to frog down until you reach the first missed tack down so that you can have all the tack downs included! Otherwise, if you don’t mind how it looks you can always move forward without the two tacks!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello, I am hoping to make this as a baby blanket. Is there a superwash yarn that you would recommend I substitute? Also, would you recommend I substitute both the Mulberry Merino (which I noticed is no longer for sale) and also the Good Wool? I really appreciate your help!
Hi Becca,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, if you are looking for a machine-washable blanket, you will want to substitute out both Mulberry Merino and Good Wool since Good Wool is not machine washable! The only sport-weight yarn we have available that is machine washable is Cotton Pure. However, we have more options in light worsted/dk weight but you will need to slightly adjust your gauge, which would actually be pretty easy. If you want to go that route I would recommend using our lovely yarn Morning or Anzula’s Cricket, both are machine washable options that I think would be beautiful with the blanket. You will just need to start off by working a gauge swatch to calculate your cast on amount. Just be sure to keep in mind that this stitch pattern works over a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then doubled.
I hope this helps, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hello! Have absolutely loved knitting this pattern. I am just at the end now and confused about binding off. For set-up row 1, after sliding the work will I be knitting the previous yarn B stitches with yarn A? When I slide my work, it is set up like what would have been a purl row.
Thank you!
Hi Amelia,
That’s correct! When you’re ready to start the bind off, instead of working the Yarn A slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), p1, repeat as you have been in Row 1 of the normal Double Knitting pattern, you will instead slide the work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to the end of the row. Next, you’ll continue on to Set-Up Row 2: Turn work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row. I hope this helps clear things up, but you can always reach out to us at [email protected] if you need some additional assistance!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi. I’m moving along well with this blanket, but find that the end stitches on both sides are looser than the rest regardless of how tight I hold the yarn. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! My best guess is that when you are slipping the stitches on the edge, the stitch itself may be getting stretched out resulting in loose edges. Going forward I would be extra careful not to overstretch the stitches when you slip them on the edge. Luckily this is something you can also adjust a bit if you block the blanket once you have finished knitting, it gives you the opportunity to even out and re-distribute your stitches! Please check out our Blocking tutorial for more tips!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
THANK YOU!
Hi I am bringing to cast on . I’m confused as I am using two colours. But with two colours how do I do a long tail cast on?
Hi Riya,
Thanks for your question!
For this pattern, you would start by casting on with only Yarn A, just like you would any one-color project! Then, after casting on, you would proceed to the 2 setup rows (Set-Up Row 1 and Set-Up Row 2) where you knit the first row with Yarn A and the second row with Yarn B. This sets up your project so that you’re able to work two different sides of color at the same time!
I hope this was helpful! Have a great day!
All the best,
Cat
Feeling really stupid. Please help. I am going to make this blanket for someone who’s 6’5” would like it to be at least 6 ft long and 42 inches wide. I can figure out the length but cant figure out the # stitches needed to cast on. Can you help? Thank you in advance. I’m using one of your newer color palettes.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thank you for your question! I would suggest casting on an extra 34 stitches in addition to the 414 stitches listed in the pattern for the throw size, making the new number of cast-on stitches 448. An extra 34 stitches in the cast-on will make your blanket around 3.2″ wider for a total of approximately 42.7″ for the width. This goes with the pattern’s instruction to cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches and then doubling that number (doubling just means that half the stitches will go on the front of the blanket and half on the back!). Since the gauge listed in the pattern is 5.25 stitches per inch, extra 17 stitches on the front and 17 on the back means an overall 3.2″ increase to the width.
I hope this was helpful! Thanks again for commenting and have a wonderful rest of your day!
All the best,
Cat
Thank you thank you specially for the additional explanations. You’re a gem Catherine Yang.
Elizabeth
I heard that if you double knit you should take two needles smaller than your wool. Is this correct?
Is the tacking down stitch so that the blanket doesn’t pull apart, so to speak? I know the sides will be shut but if i dont do the tacking downis his what will occur?
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! For this pattern, we used two different sport weight yarns and we recommend using a US 6 (4 mm) needle. And yes that is correct, tacking down the stitches keeps the blanket nice and flat, otherwise, the blanket would pull apart thought out the center.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I’m sorry if this has already been asked and answered, but do you have a recommendation for a yarn to replace the mulberry merino? I made this blanket before my daughter was born – she’s two now and absolutely loves it. Would like to make a second for my next child. Thanks!
Hi Becca,
Thanks for writing in! I would suggest using our lovely Season Alpaca in place of Mulberry Merino, it is a perfect gauge match and works great with Good Wool!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, But you don’t have it in orange or a similar color to the Persimon Orange right? How close is the Barn Door Good Wool to the Merino Persimon Orange? Would you say is a good replacement for the Merino? Thanks!
Hi Ana,
Good Wool in Barn Door is definitely a good match for Mulberry Merino in Persimmon Orange! Both are sport weight yarns, and the other color of the blanket is already in Good Wool, so it will definitely work!
All the best,
Lili
Would a baby blanket with Santolina yarn do well? 3 skeins each of 2 colors? Do you recommend a needle size?
Hi Dorian,
Thanks for reaching out. This pattern would work great in Santolina! We recommend sizes US 2 or 3 with this yarn. However, I’m afraid it’s difficult for me to predict how many skeins of each color you’ll need, since I don’t know how large you’re planning on making this blanket. Can you let me know what dimensions you’re planning on knitting it to? Then I can absolutely let you know have many skeins you’ll need!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there,
I am thinking of using the Santolina yarn to make a baby blanket. I thought the cotton/bamboo/hemp blend would be soft and drapey. Will the double sided pattern be too thick with this yarn? What size needle do you recommend for your 28×38 crib size? Thanks for any advice you have.
Hi Dorian,
Sorry, I didn’t see that you had written another comment before replying to the first one! Santolina is indeed very soft and drapey, but I don’t think the blanket will be too thick at all–just very cozy. Thank you for providing dimensions. I’d recommend purchasing 4 skeins of each color!
All the best,
Lili
I can’t see how your 294 is minus 7 and divisble by ten then doubled to make 414.
I wanted less sts as i have thick wool. So i thought 77 minus 7 leaves me 70 which is divisible by 10 then doubling it should give me 154. But looking at your equation and mine i must be doing something wrong.
Also, if i do a thicker blanket should i start the tacking sooner than 1“ or later?
Hi Rachael,
Thanks for writing in! The cast-on of 294 stitches is for the Crib size of this blanket, while the cast-on of 414 is for the Throw size. Those two numbers aren’t related to each other!
154 stitches will definitely work, in terms of the stitch multiple–you’re doing the equation correctly! If you want to be extra sure that you’re casting on the correct number for the weight of the yarn you’re using though, I’d recommend first making a gauge swatch in double knitting. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width you’d like, round to the nearest multiple of 10 + 7, and then cast on double that number. Then you can follow the pattern as written! You can still work the tack-down rows every 1 inch, it will just take fewer rows to reach 1 inch with the thicker yarn.
Hope this helps you get started on this project!
All the best,
Lili
Really struggling with your long tail tubular cast on. Pattern states omitting foundation rows? Is that the same as set rows?
Would like to know when to begin double knitting after tubular? How many rows of tubular did you work before “begin double knitting”?
Also confusing is the tutorial for long tail tubular references 1 x 1 ribbing and nothing about double knitting😬
I love this blanket, I love the rounded end the tubular makes, just need more clarity on the steps.
Please help!!!!!!
Hi Joyce,
Thanks for writing in. While a long tail tubular cast on is indeed often used for 1×1 ribbing, it’s also a great option for starting a project in double knitting! The great thing about using this method of casting on for double knitting is that all you have to do is work the cast-on and then jump straight into the pattern (since you’re omitting the foundation rows). So after you cast on all of your stitches, you can move on to Set-Up Row 1 (wrong side) immediately. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
You didn’t identify if set up is the same as foundation rows. And are you casting on both colors in the cast on? Please help. I love the blanket.
J.P. McCain
Hi J.P.
Thanks for writing in. The Set-Up Rows are different from the foundation rows! That’s why I mentioned that the pattern indicates to omit the foundation rows of the long tail tubular cast-on and continue straight to the Set-Up Rows. In answer to your other question, you will cast on with only Yarn A. Hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I’m so excited to make this blanket but I find the long tail tubular cast on method impenetrable on circular needles 😐 I’m looking to make the throw size at 414 stitches but I have a hard time interpreting the twisting of the cast on stitches once I’m supposed to work row 1 (forget about casting on to a larger needle and transferring the cast on stitches to the working needles…)
Any tips on how to handle this? Should I just get one super long straight needle to cast on? Or is there some magic involved that I’m missing 😶
Thank you so much in advance!
Jennifer
Ps –I already tried the waste yarn method but I hate the look of reducing that one extra stitch.
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! Long Tail Tubular Cast on can be quite the challenge, especially when casting on such a large number of stitches like with this blanket. The easiest option would be to work a basic Long Tain Cast On instead of the tubular! If you are set on trying the tubular cast on, then I would suggest trying it out on a straight needle and seeing if that makes the process easier. Also, feel free to email us directly at [email protected] and we can always help you further from there.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I can’t wait to start this but please clear this up first. When do I attach color B? Looks like cast on and row 1 are in yarn A and yarn B is introduced on row 2. Is that correct?
Thanks
Hi Mimi,
Thanks for reaching out. You will start knitting with Yarn B on Set-Up Row 2! Hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
How many stitches are on the needle after the end of Row 2. Is it 414 or 828?
Hi Lee Anne,
For the Throw size of this blanket, you’ll always have 414 stitches on your needles throughout the pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Are you familiar with the tubular cast on method on very pink.com? She begins with a provisional cast on and 1/2 the stitches….if so would it work here?
Hi Mimi,
I’m afraid I’m not familiar with that version of the tubular cast-on, but I think you could absolutely try it out! I’d recommend working up a small swatch to test if it works.
All the best,
Lili
Hi – two questions re: the tubular long tail cast on – in the written instructions for set-up row 1, it says to K1, wif slip one. But in the video it says to knit through the BACK of the stitches. Also in the written instructions, it says to omit the foundation rows – are these the two set-up rows? Not sure, as in one of the comments (March 2, 2022), it says to go straight into the set-up rows. So do we do the set-up rows for the tubular cast-on, or not? Thanks!
Hi Carmella!
Thank you for your questions! After casting on with a tubular cast on, you can jump right into the set-up rows, which include all the steps for transitioning between the cast on edge and the body of the blanket. I suggest following the “K1, slip one wyif” instructions of the set up rows in this blanket, as they are the pattern-specific instructions for this design. If you would prefer to use a long-tail cast on for this blanket, you are welcome to do that, too!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi Margaret – thanks for this. In the video it says to knit in the BACK of the stitches for the K1, in the set-up rows. In the written instructions above, it simply says K1. So which is it?
Hi Carmella!
The video tutorial for the tubular cast-on says to knit in the back of the stitches for the foundation rows, but since you will be following the Double Knit Blanket set-up row instructions, you can knit these stitches normally, and not through the back loop.
Happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello, what a great looking blanket and maybe I’ll try it with a scarf size first as some aspects are new to me. So if I start with the tubular cast on, the video shows alternating Purl and Knit style cast on stitches. With this blanket/scarf do we just do all K cast ons?
Hi Ina,
Thanks for writing in! The long tail tubular cast-on technique relies on the alternating knit and purl cast-on stitches, so if you want to use that style of cast-on, then you will need to follow the instructions in the video. This is the same method we used for this blanket pattern! If you’d like to do a cast-on that only incorporates knit stitches, then I’d recommend beginning with the regular long tail cast-on instead.
All the best,
Lili
If I omit tubular cast on, I will presumably be doing the foundation rows after long tail cast on. And perhaps these foundation rows are done before the set up rows? But what are the foundation rows? I read in comments that they are not the set up rows, so is the following the process:
1. long tail cast on
2. Foundation rows: what are they and how are they done?
3. Set up rows 1 and 2
4. Begin double knitting.
Kind Thanks, Cate M
Hi Cate,
Thanks for reaching out. If you decide to do the regular long tail cast-on, then there are no foundation rows at all! The foundation rows are something that you generally work when doing a tubular cast-on, but in this project, you omit them. So no matter which type of cast-on technique you choose, you will proceed straight to the Set-Up Rows after casting on your stitches. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi!
I knit a swatch of the pattern and for some reason it is open on both ends..this is my first try at double knitting. How do I close the sides? Did I miss something?
Hi Kathryn,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you’re not carrying the new yarn up the selvedge when you switch colors! When changing colors, you’ll need t o carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn in order for the colors to be interlocked. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I am struggling with how to carry the colors up the edges so there is a fusion of the two layers. Can you help. I am liking pattern but have two separate layers please help. It says to carry in back but most end in slipped stitches so unsure how to do this.
Hi Paula,
Thanks for reaching out. You can actually still carry the yarn up in back of the other working yarn even if the row ends in a slipped stitch! It will just have to reach one stitch further in order to interlock with the other strand. I think the best way to make sure you’re closing up the edges is to take a moment at the end/beginning of each row just to double check that the yarns have crossed over each other. Once they’re securely interlocked, the sides of the blanket will stay put!
All the best,
Lili
Do the set up rows end in a slipped stitch or a knit stitch?
Hi Elaine,
Thanks for writing in! Both Set-Up Rows end with a slipped stitch.
All the best,
Lili
I’m having a hard time deciding what yarns to use here — would it work to use two colors of Cotton Pure or would that not be stretchy enough if used on both sides? Would one color of Good Wool and one color of Cotton Pure work best or would you recommend two colors of Santolina? Thanks so much!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for your comment! Cotton Pure and Good Wool are both sport weight yarns and match well in terms of gauge, so either would work great for this pattern! Cotton Pure would make for a wonderful blanket that’s machine washable too if you make the entire project in this yarn. The stockinette fabric would provide plenty of stretch. You could certainly do one side in Good Wool and one side in Cotton Pure as well, that would be really cool! I recommend making sure that you’re getting gauge with both of these yarns to ensure both sides of your blanket match up. Here’s our guide on swatching in case you’re interested in more info on that: All About Gauge! Lastly, I wouldn’t recommend Santolina for this project because it’s a fingering weight yarn and would be a bit too thin.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Thanks so much, Cat!
Which combination of yarns would work best here– Good Wool + Cotton Pure, 2 Santolina, or 2 Cotton Pure? Thanks!
Hi Jane,
I think Good Wool and Cotton Pure or all Cotton Pure would be perfect for this blanket! If you combine Good Wool and Cotton Pure, I just wanted to mention that that will make the blanket hand wash only. Santolina is a bit too thin since it’s a fingering weight yarn and the pattern calls for a sport weight, so it wouldn’t quite work for this blanket. Let us know if we can help with any other questions!
All the best,
Cat
Hi. I made this for my grandson and my daughter loves it and so wants another one for another baby. Would you also recommend doing this blanket in all Good Wool with two colors? Thanks.
Hi Robin,
You can absolutely make this blanket in two colors of Good Wool! You won’t get the textural difference present in the original version, but it will work, technically. If you’re interested in finding a second type of yarn that has a different texture though, you can use a different sportweight yarn. In particular, I’d recommend Season Alpaca, which feels a lot more “smooth and silky” than Good Wool!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!
I am struggling with the, wrong side right side. Sometimes right side is color B, sometimes it is color A. Can you help a little
Thanks!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! I would suggest adding a removable stitch marker onto one side of your work to help you better identify your right side versus the wrong side when knitting. This can also help you identify what row you are on as you knit along.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you need further assistance!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
On set up rows, A is wrong side and B is right side. so I put the marker on the right side color B. In the Double knit Row 1 says with A on right side, row 2 is B on wrong side.
Ah, thanks for helping me better understand your question. When knitting your setup rows for your blanket, you will turn each time to prepare for double knitting. Once you move to row 1 in the Begin Double Knitting section, you will start by sliding your work to be able to knit the same side.
Once you get a few inches into the pattern you notice that yarn B is the color that will show up on the right side. This happens when knitting and slipping stitches on the right side instead of slipping and purling. Ultimately you are working both colors on each pass but only one will show up depending on if you are on the right or wrong side. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Oh dear, I started the crib size blanket and managed to do the tubular cast on but as I was finishing the first row I dropped the second to last cast on stitch. I can’t figure out how to pick it back up and I can’t find an answer for this online. Any suggestions? Thanks!!
Hi TK,
Thanks for your question! One thing you could do is use a crochet hook to pick up the dropped stitch and place it back onto your needle. You can follow these steps to pick up that stitch.
1. Knit up to the column of stitches that contains the mistake and let that column unravel until you just pass the stitch with the mistake.
2. Insert a crochet hook into the bottom-most loop.
3. Slip the hook under the “bar” just above this loop.
4. Pull the bar through the loop, creating a new loop.
5. Slip this final loop back onto the left needle.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any more questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello! I want to make this beautiful throw about 40×60 in. I understand I have to add 34 stitches to make it a little wider but can you tell me how many skeins of each color I will need? Just want to be sure I will not run short.
Thank you!
Hi Ghislaine,
Thanks for writing in! To complete this blanket in a 40 x 60 size, you will need 2180 yards of color A and 2160 yards of color B. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thank you Gavriella for your help.
Do you think this would work in Wigeon (carmine orange or yellow curry) & Morning (grassland grey)?
Hi Eva,
Thanks for writing in! Although those colors are all so beautiful, I would recommend sticking with the same fiber content throughout the pattern as these fibers will block and stretch at different rates. Wigeon in Eucalyptus Gray would make a great pairing with the Carmine Orange or Yellow Curry! I hope this helps!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Actually, if i wanted to work this in cotton pure (tomato orange) and morning (grasslands grey) to match the sample color way (ish) in washable yarns would you recommend downsizing to 5’s or sticking with 6’s? Increase stitch count by 20-40 to keep the sizing consistent?
Hi Eva,
We would recommend starting with a gauge swatch using the size needle indicated in the pattern. If you are able to get gauge of 21 stitches and 30 rows and like the fabric, then you can follow the pattern as is! If you would like to adjust your gauge, you can calculate your cast on number by measuring your preferred gauge swatch to get the stitches per inch by the desired width of the pattern. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thanks!!
I am working on the larger size of 414 stitches. But the instructions aren’t complete for the larger size, and I cannot get it to work with the tack downs as is.
Please help.
Hi Esther,
Thank you for writing in! Could you please let me know the issue you are having with the pattern? The instructions for both the small and larger size are the same outside of the number you are to cast on so I just want to make sure we can give you accurate advice on how to proceed. Would you mind sending a photo of your project to [email protected]? This could help us better visualize the issue you are having.
I will keep an eye out for your reply.
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi there!
I am obsessed with this pattern, and I am part wait through a baby blanket (cast on using 234 stitches.) I would love to knit another, chunkier version of this blanket for a friend having a baby, in hopes that it will knit up faster. I’m also curious how it would look. Do you think the pattern would still look good with a slightly chunkier yarn? And are there any you would recommend?
Thanks!
Hi Jade,
Thanks for writing in! This blanket would be so cozy in a thicker yarn. It’ll be pretty thick since it’s two layers, but that will make it nice and warm! I think it would be lovely in worsted weight yarns like Plenty and Yonder. These two yarns vary in texture like the original yarns as well!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, would it be possible to do this with only Season Alpaca instead of mixing with Good Wool? Would that change anything?
Hi Chan,
You can absolutely do that! As long as you’re able to achieve the gauge of the pattern, you can knit it with any yarn you like. You could also adjust the number of stitches you cast on if you want to knit it at a different gauge, and I’m happy to help with the math if you decide to do that!
All the best,
Lili
I have just knitting the first inch of the pattern and realize that I have 416 stitches instead of 414 for the throw size. Will this throw my pattern off when I start the tacking ? If so please advise me of what I can do instead of starting completely over. I am not an advanced knitter and need help.
Thanks so much
Kiersten
Hi Kiersten,
We’re so sorry to hear your stitch count wasn’t what you intended. One thing you can do to avoid starting over is decrease down to the correct stitch count. I’m afraid we don’t have a video on how to decrease in double knitting but YouTube or your preferred video platform should have a good tutorial on how you can do so. Just be sure you have the correct amount of stitches for each color when doing this and you might even prefer to add a lifeline in your work before doing so in case you need to rip back.
Another option would be to just take the new stitch count into mind when you start on your tacks and have an extra stitch in between tacks. I’d recommend using additional stitch markers so you don’t forget where you complete that.
I hope this helps and happy making!
All the best,
Gavriella