Double Knit Blanket
Our Double Knit Blanket is, indeed, double knit! Double knitting is a simple way to create two layers of stockinette fabric at once by slipping every other stitch as you alternate yarn colors each row. The result? One yarn on one side and another on the other… Needle magic!
What’s more, we took a page from the quilting books and threw in tiny tacks (created while you knit!), critical little details that truly set this blanket apart.
One of the opportunities our Double Knit Blanket gives us is to explore our favorite stew: the one where we throw rustic and refined into the very same pot. And so, one side is our undyed Good Wool, a straight-from-nature rugged beauty, while the other is our sumptuous Mulberry Merino with its subtle shine and smooth finish… Great flavors together!
To make a baby-size blanket in these two yarns, you’ll just need one of our Double Knit Blanket Bundles. Each one includes Good Wool’s Driftwood Gray for one side, and then choose from four different Mulberry Merino colors for the other (this one is gorgeous Persimmon Orange). Want to make it a throw? We tell how many skeins and cast-on stitches to add!
Apart from its two-sided fun, our Double Knit Blanket’s two layers give it a seriously decadent drape and warmth… an heirloom knit for a new baby or an old friend or even yourself!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Update: New Colors
March 25, 2019
We love the original version of our Double Knit Blanket so much that we decided to update our Bundle options with the newest colors of Mulberry Merino! Our Double Knit Blanket Bundle is available in seven beautiful color combos!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoDoubleKnitBlanket, and #PurlSohoGoodWool. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Please Note: Our Double Knit Blanket Bundles are no longer available. To build your own, you will need…
- Yarn A: 3 (4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% undyed Andean highland wool. Each skein is 383 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 966 (1412) yards required.
- Yarn B: 4 (6) skeins of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% extra fine merino wool and 20% mulberry silk. Each 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 957 (1398) yards required. (NOTE: We no longer offer Mulberry Merino, but choose from one of our other sport weight yarns.)
In addition to the Driftwood Gray + Persimmon Orange palette we used, you can choose from six other palettes, shown above from left to right, top to bottom…
- Driftwood Gray + Heirloom White
- Walking Stick + Red Pine
- Winter Grass + Light Cerulean
- Driftwood Gray + True Turquoise
- Winter Grass + Mustard Seed
- Driftwood Gray + Green Spruce
You’ll also need…
- US 6 (4 mm), 32-, 40-, or 47-inch circular needles
- Spare US 5 (3.75 mm) or smaller, 32-, 40-, or 47-inch circular needles
Gauge
21 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in double knit stockinette stitch, using the larger needles
Sizes
Crib (Throw)
- Finished Measurements: 28 x 38 (39½ x 50) inches
Sample: We knit the Crib size.
Notes
Slip Stitches
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise unless indicated in the pattern.
Changing Colors
When changing colors, carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn.
Turn and Slide
Each row in this pattern starts with the instructions to either “Turn” or “Slide” the work:
“Turning the work” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with circular needles: Transfer the needle from your left hand into your right and the needle from your right hand into your left, and flip the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
“Sliding the work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to work the next row is magically there waiting for you!
Stitch Multiple
To adjust the width of the project, cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it.
Double Knitting
This blanket uses a technique called Double Knitting. You can follow the pattern as written, but if you need extra help, our step-by-step video tutorial shows you exactly how to do it!
Pattern
Cast On + Set Up
NOTE: For our version of this blanket, we used a Long Tail Tubular Cast On (and omitted the foundation rows). You should know that this cast on is quite a bit more complicated than a Long Tail Cast On, so if you go down the Tubular path and get frustrated, just use a Long Tail Cast On… It’ll look beautiful, we promise!
With Yarn A and the smaller needles if working a Long Tail Cast On and the larger needles if doing a Tubular one, cast on 294 (414) stitches.
NOTE: If using a Long Tail Cast On on smaller needles, switch to larger needles.
Set-Up Row 1 (wrong side): Turn work (see Notes) and with Yarn A,*k1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to end of row.
Set-Up Row 2 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Begin Double Knitting
Row 1 (right side): Slide work (see Notes) and with Yarn A, *slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *slip 1 wyib, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for a total of 1 inch, ending with Row 4.
Tack Down
Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Continue Double Knitting
Repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section until piece measures 1 inch from the previous tack down row, ending with Row 4.
Stagger Tack Down
Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 18 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 18 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Continue
Repeat from Row 1 of Begin Double Knitting section to Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section until piece measures 37 (49) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section.
Repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section for 1 more inch, until piece measures 38 (50) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4.
Cut Yarn B.
Bind Off
Set-Up Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Set-Up Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Alternating between needles, slip all the knit stitches onto the working circular needles and all the purl stitches onto spare circular needles.
FOR A LONG TAIL TUBULAR CAST ON…
Slide work and with right side facing you, use Yarn A to bind off in Kitchener Stitch.
IF YOU DID A LONG TAIL CAST ON…
With Yarn A and the right side facing you, bind off using a 3-Needle Bind Off.
Weave in the ends and block as desired!
PRINT
I’m about to embark on the double knit blanket, but while knitting the swatch I am finding that it’s easy to get muddled about where in the four row knitting sequence I am. Is there a way to identify where I am? Eg, if the yarn for both colours are at the same end of the row, I must be at a particular place in the sequence?
Hi Anne,
Great question! If both yarns are at the same edge, that means you are about to start either Row 2 or Row 4, and you can easily tell which row it is by whether the right side or wrong side is facing you. It’s much more difficult, however, to tell the difference between Rows 1 and 3, so whenever possible, I would recommend waiting until after Row 1 or 3, or when both yarns are at one edge of the blanket, before putting down your work. If you have to stop after Row 2 or 4, you will probably need to use a stitch counter or make a note of which row is next!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Is this adaptable to use with Line Weight?
Hi Saskia,
Great question! Yes, I think with a few modifications, this blanket would be wonderful in Line Weight! To adjust for the smaller gauge, you will need to knit a gauge swatch in the double knitting pattern using Line Weight and a US 1 or 2 needle. You can then multiply your stitches per inch by 28 or your desired width, round to the nearest multiple of 10 plus 7 stitches, and double that number to determine how many stitches to cast on.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Do you have a guesstimate on how many skeins of Line Weight I’ll need of each color?
Hi Saskia,
It can be difficult to estimate how much yarn you will need when changing the gauge like this. The best way to find out is to knit your swatch, weigh it to see how many grams of yarn you used, and then divide the square inches of your desired blanket size by the square inches of your swatch. You can then multiply that number by the weight of your swatch to determine about how may grams total you will need for the blanket. Roughly, based on other fingering weight blankets we have made, you should have more than enough yarn with 4 skeins of each color for the crib blanket or 6 skeins of each color for the throw.
Best,
Julianna
I’m using the tubular cast on. Which row will be my first row?
Do I ignore the 2 set up rows and start with row 1 of the pattern?
Hi Yrezenia,
Thanks for writing in! For this pattern, after working the tubular cast on, you will not work the set-up rows that are part of our Tubular Cast On Tutorial. Instead, once your stitches are on the needle, you will immediately start with Set-Up Row 1 and Set-Up Row 2 from the blanket pattern above.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Most tutorials for the long tail tubular cast on are for knit/purl ribbing. Am I correct in assuming that, for this pattern, I would use a knit only tubular cast on?
Hi Alecia,
Thanks for reaching out! The Long Tail Tubular Cast On can actually only create alternating knit and purl stitches. Although it can be modified for a few variations of ribbing, I’m don’t believe there is a way to modify it to create only knit stitches. In this case, however, the alternating knit and purl stitches are correct! After you work the set-up rows in the pattern, the knit stitches of the cast on will go into one layer of the blanket, and the purl stitches will go into the other. It might be a little difficult to visualize, but once you’ve done the first few rows and can see the double knit fabric emerging, it should start to make sense!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am desperately trying to order a double knit blanket kit, but can’t figure out your site. Does that mean I’m not smart enough to knit that blanket?
Hi Cydney,
Thank you so much for reaching out! Not at all, we would be more than happy to help you place your order, and even happier to answer any questions you might have as you knit! If you’re still having trouble ordering, please reach out to us either at customerservice@purlsoho.com or (800) 597 PURL!
Hi – if using the tubular cast on, when you say that you “omitted the foundation rows”, does that mean you didn’t do the typical tubular foundation rows, or do you mean you omitted the set-up rows that are listed as part of the pattern?
Hi Tanya,
Thanks for writing in! This means that you will skip the usual set-up rows that are part of our Long Tail Tubular Cast On tutorial, and instead work Set-Up Rows 1 and 2 that are part of the pattern above.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
On the Double Knit Blanket, if both sides appear the same, why is more of one color than the other necessary?
Is this project appropriate for and intermediate/advanced beginner?
Many thanks,
Francine
Hi Francine,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that the yardage for both sides of the blanket is almost exactly the same! However, Good Wool has quite a bit more yardage per skein than Mulberry Merino, so three skeins of Good Wool actually has more yardage than four skeins of Mulberry Merino. I definitely think this pattern would be worth a try! The stitches themselves are quite easy and there are only four rows to repeat, so you could always cast on any even number of stitches to knit a practice swatch and see if you enjoy the technique.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Is it possible to convert this blanket into a scarf using #3 light (weight 0.88 oz, 82 yards) cashmere yarn? I was thinking I could do a quarter width and double the length from the baby blanket measurement.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! You can definitely convert this blanket pattern to a scarf! If you are going to be substituting for another yarn just make sure to do a gauge swatch to make sure it is consistent with the pattern and cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches to insure you are working across the correct number of stitches for the pattern repeats!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Have just finished this double knit blanket (love !!!) however, my sides are not attached in some places. I guess I didn’t rotate my yarn correctly. Is there a way to fix this after the fact ? baby shower next month !!! HELP !
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! You can go back in with a tapestry needle and one of the yarns and seam up the spots that are not attached and then weave in the ends!
I hope this helps but if you have any more questions feel free to reach out!
Best,
Gianna
Hi. Can I use alternative tubular cast-on in lieu of long tail tubular cast-on? And if yes, will I need to modify any subsequent part of the pattern? Thank you.
Hi Kikko,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sure that alternative tubular cast-on would be fine for this pattern and shouldn’t cause any problems going forward with the pattern!
All the best,
Gianna
hi there. I would love to try my hand at this and turn it into a scarf. I saw the other comment about how to turn it into a scarf. if I follow the idea about doing the gauge and then 10 + 7 stitches, will the patter where the tac down comes in, just naturally happen on its own ?
also, can I ask if I wanted to substitute for another yarn, would there be one you would recommend (i.e. a 8 ply or 10 or 12ply) or I could choose either and then just do my gauge swatch and go from there?
Hi Kath,
Thanks for reaching out! Thats a great idea! You can easily adapt the pattern to be a scarf instead of a blanket! That is why we recommend the stitch multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, so that the repeat with the tack happens naturally! You can absolutely use a heavier weight yarn, I would recommend our Worsted Twist and Linen Quill Worsted!
All the best,
Gianna
What level knitting is this pattern?
Hi Marie,
Thanks for reaching out! I would categorize this pattern in the more intermediate knitting sections!
All the best,
Gianna
Planning to make this in the throw blanket size for a wedding gift! What length circular needles to you recommend for the throw size? 40 inch or 47 inch? Thanks!
Hi Hilary,
Thanks for reaching out! It is totally up to you, a 40 or 47″ would both work great for a throw size! Depending on what you like a 40″ will me a bit more closely packed and a 47″ will give you a bit more space!
All the best,
Gianna
I am practicing to knit this blanket with 34 CO stitches. I finished Row 4 and slid the work to start Row 1 of Tack-down section. I am facing the RS and have the main-color yarn to work with. However, my first stitch is the same color as that of the yarn. So if I slip it as the pattern instructs, I would have to purl the next stitch (non-main color). As a result, all my stitches in this row will be in the main color. What am I doing wrong??? Please help.
Hi Kikko,
Thanks for reaching out! It looks like you don’t have the right number of stitches in the cast on! The pattern only works over a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches. I would recommend trying your swatch again with a cast on of 37 instead!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi. I am confused about the number of cast-on stitches. For my practice swatch, I used 34 (10 + 7 and then doubled it, as in the pattern instruction). But you say it is a wrong number. Will you please explain when/why I need to double the number? Thanks.
Hi Kikko,
Thanks for reaching out again! Since the pattern only works over a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches you need the correct cast on number in order for the stitch to work. For example for your swatch, you should cast on 37 stitches (10 x 3 + 7 = 37)
I hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Gianna
Would this pattern work if I only use Mulberry Merino (2 different colours) for this pattern?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes you can definitely work this pattern with 2 shades of Mulberry Merino instead of Mulberry Merino + Good Wool!
All the best,
Gianna
Any concerns with color bleed when using a light and dark color? I’m thinking I’d like to make this in driftwood and red pine.
Hi Heather,
Thanks for reaching out! We haven’t heard of anyone having problems with color bleeding with Good Wool or Mulberry Merino. That sounds like a beautiful color combination! If you would like to be on the safe side, we offer a great tutorial on Re-Fixing Dye!
All the best,
Gianna
I am about to finish this beautiful blanket. It’s my second one and when I did my long tail bind off on the first I did it exactly as in the pattern using a smaller needle to slip the purl stitches onto. The end result was a too tight edge. Should I slip the knit stitches onto a larger needle and slip the purl stitches onto the recommended 5 or smaller?
Hi Camille,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so sorry about the delayed response- it seems your post ended up in the spam folder… I am happy to help with this! I would recommend binding off with a needle one or two sizes larger to insure that your bind off is not too tight.
I hope this helps and again my apologies!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am a pretty good intermediate knitter,
How long do you think this would take to knit up in the original baby blanket size?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for reaching out! Its hard to say exactly how long it would take you since that depends on the style of knitting you use and just how fast you work personally! I can say this blanket is a bit more time consuming since you are double knitting!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am trying to do a quick swatch- I did cast on 17 sts but it doesnt work- help! You say multiples of 10+7.
Thank you!
Hi Mindy,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, the stitch pattern works over a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches so 17 should work! What seems to be the problem/not working with your swatch? I am happy to help figure this out!
All the best,
Gianna
I will try again- the pattern does not work out with the right color being ready to be worked. I will report back after another try- much thanks!
Hi, I started my sample swatch with 44 stitches. I am having a problem when the row ends with a slip stitch, especially on the rows which have both A and B yarns together. My salvages are messy. I feel like I am doing something very wrong!
Another question: In your pattern, the gauge says 21 stitches =4 inches in double knit stockinette stitch, does that mean, 21 stitches per side, a total of 42 stitches on the needle?
Thank you for your help
Hi Esther,
Thanks for reaching out! For this blanket the pattern works over a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches doubled so that could be the reason your swatch is not coming out as expected, I would recommend casting on 54 stitches instead 10+10+7 x 2) The gauge is just the measurement of how many stitches per inch so in this case the gauge is 21 stitches = 4 inches which was measured on one side of the fabric and used to determine the number of stitches to cast on for the size you want to make. For example our crib size is 28 inches wide, so we used that formula plus the stitch multiple to calculate the cast on of 294 to get the gauge of 28″ wide. Our All About Gauge tutorial is an excellent resource to use and goes more into depth about gauge!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am planning to make this baby blanket with yarn I have. i calculated the yardage called for in the pattern, and came up with
2,423 yds, which seems like a lot for a baby blanket. Should I estimate by grams instead?
Hi Veronica,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Crib Size (baby) blanket we used approximately 229 grams or 878 yards of Good Wool and 352 grams or 870 yards of Mulberry Merino for this blanket, or 1,748 yards (581 grams) total!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I would like to make the baby blanket for a new great grandchild. Do I use the tubular cast on using two colors of the yarn, or one color then add the second color when it is called for?
Hi Lynne,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Long Tail Tubular Cast On you will cast on just using Yarn A, then you will work the Set-Up Row 1 with Yarn A as well, and the will switch to Yarn B for the Set-Up Row 2!
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’ve just about completed the first full section and so far looks great! I am in row 4 of the tack down section, and just realized that in the previous row (row 3 tack down) I must have k1, p1 instead of k1, slip 1 wyif. I have 3 stitches in yarn A when I should have 1 stitch in yarn A, a slipped stitch in yarn B, and another 1 stitch in yarn A. Is it possible to correct this now that I am in row 4 of tack down? Hoping I don’t have to pull out a full row and a half. Thank you!
Hi Sonia,
Thanks for reaching out! You should be able to drop down and fix the stitch by un knitting the purl so that the stitch is not worked and the yarn is in the front!
I hope this helps but please feel free to reach out with any more questions going forward!
Warmly,
Gianna
After several false starts with the tubular cast-on, I’m happily on my way; but I do have an instruction question about what to do following the staggered tack down. “Repeat Row 1 of Begin Double Knitting section to Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section until piece measures 37 (49) inches from cast-on edge ending with Row 4 of StaggerTack Down section.” Does this include the Tack Down section, or do I jump from Begin Double Knitting section then go right to Stagger Tack Down section?
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out! You work row 1 of the Begin Double Knitting section till you reach Row 4 of the Stagger Tack Down section including the Tack Down Section!
I hope this clears things up!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you, Gianna. Realized it as I was knitting. Should’ve figured this out for myself. Makes sense now.
Hi there and happy new year.
Ive been following your gorgeous website for several years and made some of the projects all beautiful.
I’m a continental knitter which sometimes poses a challenge following instructions but manage in most cases.
I discovered double knitting with you and decided to make a jacket with zipper for my husband, going well so far, I’m using cashmere so should me warm and light.
I’d like to suggest if possible to create a video or set of instructions using the continental method as you need literally half of the time, at least for me is simpler to follow, no 4 rows and turn/slide, just knit and purl.
Thank you again for this lovely space full of creativity.
Dri
Hi Dri,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! Also thank you for sharing your opinion, I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Is it possible to do this blanket the regular double knitting method? Would that change anything else? I’m used to doing double knitting with no slip Sts. I knit on the side facing me and purl the other side /colour Except of course when the other colour needs to show on my side. How would you do the end of row edge sts.?
Hi Rita,
Thanks for writing in! I’m sure you could work this blanket with the method you are discussing, however I would recommend working the pattern as written including the slip stitches so that you have a nice boarder for the blanket!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hey! I love this so far! Just want to ask when changing colors the note says to carry the next color up behind the old one. So are we “twisting” them on the side? It looks like there’s a few “gaps” between the colors on the side where I maybe didn’t twist the Yarns but I want to know if this is intended! Thanks!
Hi Darcy,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct you will “twisting” the yarn on the sides when carrying up the colors. This will close up gaps ion the sides leaving a nice tight edge! I would recommend checking out our Double Knitting tutorial to see exactly how this technique is worked!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Would like to try this pattern for a scarf. How many skeins of each color would I need please?
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for reaching out! What a cute idea! It would depend on how big you want the scarf, but you should be good to go with 3 skeins of Mulberry Merino and 2 skeins of Good Wool!
Warmly,
Gianna
I do not use wool for ethical reasons and am wondering if the double knit blanket can be knit with your soft, luscious Cotton Pure.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly use Cotton Pure for this blanket since it is also a sport weight yarn! The pattern should work as written but I do recommend working a gauge swatch first to insure you are consistent with the pattern or if there are any adjustments necessary!
Warmly,
Gianna
I would like to make this blanket in a larger size, approximately 50”x60”. How many skeins of each yarn do I need?
Thank you.
Hi Randy,
Thanks for reaching out! For our throw size (39 1/2″ x 50″) we recommend 4 skeins of Good Wool and 6 skeins of Mulberry Merino, for a 50” x 60” blanket I would recommend an extra skein of Good Wool (5) and 2 extra skeins of Mulberry Merino (8)
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
In referance to Double Knit Blanket pattern:
I have a number of cotten odds and ends from baby items and would like to create something useful. Could this technique be used to make kitchen hot pad squares using double point needles or must one use circular needle set? Thank you for this helpful website; I refer to it quite often for guidance.
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I think that sounds like a great idea, be sure to keep in mind that the to adjust the width of the project, you will need to cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it. You could certainly use double pointed needles instead of a circular needles, as long as you are able to “slide” the work!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
This is such a beautiful blanket; thank you for posting it. I am knitting a swatch to learn this new technique, which is going well. However, when I do the tack downs the effect is not well delineated because the purl stitch that’s done after the contrast color wrap shows through. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Fran,
Thanks for reaching out! Feel free to email our team a photo of your swatch to customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can troubleshoot further from there! Did you watch the video tutorial? If not you can find that here: Double Knitting !
Warmly,
Gianna
Can this stitch be done in the round in order to make a hat?
Hi Tricia!
Thanks for reaching out! While we don’t currently have a pattern for one, you could absolutely use the double knit stitch in a hat pattern. I’d recommend checking out Ravelry to see if there are any double knit hat patterns there that you like!
I hope this is helpful, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Take care,
Kelsey
Hi Purl Soho! I have decided to make the double knit blanket out of season alpaca (baby alpaca) and Manos del Uruguay fino (extra fine merino and silk)…not the best selections for a baby blanket, but it feels nice and is very pretty. I have two questions: 1. What is the best method for adding skeins along the way? 2. I did the long tail cast on and the 3 needle bind off makes to tight of a bind off…making the final row very stiff and and elongated. Do you have any advice? Thanks for the pattern, it really is beautiful.
Hi Hilary,
Thanks for reaching out! That sounds like a beautiful baby blanket!
My advise for joining new skeins would be to try and only switch skeins at the beginning/ends of rows. Sewing in ends in the middle of the blanket will be more noticeable than if they will be on the edges. With the Manos Fino, you could also try Wet Splicing to avoid a few of those tails!
If you’re experiencing tightness in your three-needle bind off, I’d suggest going up a needle size (or maybe even 2) to help keep those stitches from getting too snug. You might want to work up a little gauge swatch and play around with different needles for the bind off, to make sure you find the one that works best for your personal tension.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
I haven’t been knitting very long so I was wondering if you had a video on this blanket.
Videos help me immensely!
Thank you so mych.
Hope everyone is doing well in your area!
Linda Deweese-Brown
Oklahoma
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! We do have a video tutorial on Double Knitting, which you can find right here.
I hope that helps clear things up for you, but please don’t hesitate to reach out if you run into any questions!
All the best,
Kelsey
Is the tack down a design element or is it there for structural reasons? I wondered if the tack downs could be eliminated. Thank you.
Hi Diane,
Thanks for reaching out! The tacks are both a design element and there for structural support. They are used to quite literally tack down the 2 layers so that the blanket lays flat! Without them you would have nothing connecting the 2 layers except at the edges.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
I increased the the wide to 528
414+ (50+7)x2=528. I’m working on the first tack down row and the last section before leave the 8 stitches, instead of 9 repeats I only have enough for 6 repeats. Is that correct? Do i need to adjust tack down row 2 ?
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for reaching out! I think the problem may be your total cast on amount, it should be a multiple of 10 plus 7 for the pattern to work correctly! However, you may be able to to adjust the tack down row to get the repeats to work over the amount of stitches that you have!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
How much Mulberry Merino is needed to finish the edges of the throw size with an i-cord?
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend 2-3 skeins to be sure you have enough to complete the boarder! If you don’t end up using all of the skeins, as long as they are in original condition, you can return them from store credit within 6 months!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello!
I am in a conundrum as I put my knitting down for the night and foolishly forgot to write down what row I was on, and now I cannot figure it out. I knit an entire row but I think I picked up the wrong colour!
When starting row 3, on what sides will each yarn be on (ie: both on the same side facing the wrong direction) and when starting row 4 which will they be on?
I know starting row 1 with the right side, and sliding the work that yarn A will be on one side and yarn B on the other.
I hope this makes sense!
Hi Megan,
Thanks for writing in! If you would like, you can email a photo of your work to our customer service team at customerservice@purlsoho.com and they can help identify where you are and if there was an error!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Oh man. I’m confused from the start! Do you use both yarns in the cast on? Add yarn B in set-up row 2? Helllllllp meeeee!
Hi Katie,
Thanks for reaching out! No worries, I am happy to help! You will start off by casting on with Yarn A and then will bring in Yarn B for row 2 of the setup round!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi there,
I’m wondering if you have any tips for adding a new skein to make it easier to weave the ends in afterwards. For example, should I add a new skein on a knit or purl row? Will it mess up my selvedge edge somehow? Thanks!
Hi Allison,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest adding in a new skein on the “right side” of your work, it shouldn’t mess up your selvage especially when you weave in the ends once you finish!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I apologize if this question has already been asked. On the first set up row after the tubular cast on, should I knit through the back loop? The pattern doesn’t specify this, but when I watched the tubular cast on tutorial, it said to knit through the back loop on the first row because the stitches are twisted. Is it the same for the first set up row in this pattern? Or should I knit through the front? Or does it not matter?
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! For Tubular Cast On you will follow the setup row according to the tutorial, knitting through the back loop!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
In the bind off, I am told to separate the knit stitches and the purl stitches on to two needles, but I am not clear about what is a purl stitch in this case, since the two set up rows are both knit! I would think that if I separated the stitches by color that would work? And why not use Kitchener bind off no matter what cast on you used.
I really found the page to be quite confusing to follow, although once I’d rewritten it the pattern was quite simple. It would help to have just the pattern all in one place, instead of being surrounded by other writing and materiel. I also wrote a little diagram for myself that was very helpful to show what row I was on, as someone asked above.
Hi Abigail,
Thanks for reaching out! Essentially, when you have the right side facing you the front stitches, would be the knit stitches and the back stitches would be the purl stitches! You could also technically separate by color. As for the two different bind-off options, they depend on what cast-on method you used so that both ends are cohesive. If you used Long Tail Tubular Cast On then you will want to bind off in Kitchener Stitch, if you used a basic Long Tail Cast On then you will want to a 3-Needle Bind Off.
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi. I’m a new knitter so this may be a bit difficult for me, but I’m curious why there are more cast on stitches (414) when using larger needles and less (294) when using smaller needles. Also, with 414 cast on stitches at 5.25 stitches/inch (21/4″) the work would be much wider than 28″.
Thanks for you help.
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! The two numbers are not for casting on with different needle sizes, either cast on amount would be cast on to the same needle size depending on what cast on method you are using (you cast on to the US 5 if you are using the Long Tail Tubular Cast On method, or the US 6 if you are using the basic Long Tail Cast On method!) If you are a beginner, I would suggest sticking to the basic Long Tail Cast On for this blanket and using the US 6 needle.
The two numbers are simply for the two different sizes of this blanket! The 294 stitch cast on is for the crib/baby size blanket and the 414 stitch cast on is for the throw size of the blanket!
For future reference, when a pattern of ours has multiple size options, the different sizes will be shown in the parentheses in order of smallest to largest. SO, when you are following the pattern, if you are making the baby size you will follow the instructions for the number shown outside of the parentheses, or if you are making the throw size you will follow the instructions for the number within the parentheses!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Thanks so much, Gianna.
Another question. I have figured out the long tail tubular cast on, but want to know if when I turn the work for the 1st set up row do I slip with the needle in the front or back of the stitch?
Again, thanks!
Hi Robin,
No matter which cast-on method you use, you’re going to want to slip each stitch purlwise throughout the pattern, unless otherwise noted. This is true for the set-up rows as well! So, once you’ve completed the Long Tail Tubular Cast on and turn your work, with Yarn A you’ll knit the first stitch, bring your yarn to the front of your work, then insert your right-hand needle through the stitch from right to left (as if to purl, or “purlwise”) and slip it onto your needle.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Also, doesn’t the pattern say use the larger needles for tubular and not the smaller as you mentioned above?
Also, I found the answer to my previous question in the question section. Sorry to have asked again.
You are correct! If you’re working the Long Tail Tubular Cast-on, then you will want to use the larger needle size. If you’re working the basic Long Tail Cast on, then you’ll want to start with the smaller needles to cast on the stitches, and then switch to the larger size to work the first set up row!
Warmly,
Kelsey
At the end of set up row 1 you’re left with a slip stitch and have to turn the work to add the second color, so how do you add it AND secure the first color that’s hanging off of the 2nd to last stitch?
Thanks so much for your help. Getting there slowly but surely.
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest checking out our tutorial Adding a Ball of Yarn, the method is the same for this blanket, you will add the new color by knitting the first stitch after the slip stitch and this will secure the color in place. Just be sure to keep a long tail!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
OMG, I’m working along and have 4″ completed, but just saw that I left out 2 tacks downs on 1 side only about 4 rows prior to the row I’m working on! ;). Can I repair this?
Hi Robin,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, since the tacks are knit in place while double knitting, I don’t believe there is an easy way to drop down and repair this, I think the easiest solution would be to frog down until you reach the first missed tack down so that you can have all the tack downs included! Otherwise, if you don’t mind how it looks you can always move forward without the two tacks!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello, I am hoping to make this as a baby blanket. Is there a superwash yarn that you would recommend I substitute? Also, would you recommend I substitute both the Mulberry Merino (which I noticed is no longer for sale) and also the Good Wool? I really appreciate your help!
Hi Becca,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, if you are looking for a machine-washable blanket, you will want to substitute out both Mulberry Merino and Good Wool since Good Wool is not machine washable! The only sport-weight yarn we have available that is machine washable is Cotton Pure. However, we have more options in light worsted/dk weight but you will need to slightly adjust your gauge, which would actually be pretty easy. If you want to go that route I would recommend using our lovely yarn Morning or Anzula’s Cricket, both are machine washable options that I think would be beautiful with the blanket. You will just need to start off by working a gauge swatch to calculate your cast on amount. Just be sure to keep in mind that this stitch pattern works over a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then doubled.
I hope this helps, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hello! Have absolutely loved knitting this pattern. I am just at the end now and confused about binding off. For set-up row 1, after sliding the work will I be knitting the previous yarn B stitches with yarn A? When I slide my work, it is set up like what would have been a purl row.
Thank you!
Hi Amelia,
That’s correct! When you’re ready to start the bind off, instead of working the Yarn A slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), p1, repeat as you have been in Row 1 of the normal Double Knitting pattern, you will instead slide the work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to the end of the row. Next, you’ll continue on to Set-Up Row 2: Turn work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row. I hope this helps clear things up, but you can always reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com if you need some additional assistance!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi. I’m moving along well with this blanket, but find that the end stitches on both sides are looser than the rest regardless of how tight I hold the yarn. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! My best guess is that when you are slipping the stitches on the edge, the stitch itself may be getting stretched out resulting in loose edges. Going forward I would be extra careful not to overstretch the stitches when you slip them on the edge. Luckily this is something you can also adjust a bit if you block the blanket once you have finished knitting, it gives you the opportunity to even out and re-distribute your stitches! Please check out our Blocking tutorial for more tips!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
THANK YOU!