Our Double Knit Blanket is, indeed, double knit! Double knitting is a simple way to create two layers of stockinette fabric at once by slipping every other stitch as you alternate yarn colors each row. The result? One yarn on one side and another on the other… Needle magic!
What’s more, we took a page from the quilting books and threw in tiny tacks (created while you knit!), critical little details that truly set this blanket apart.
One of the opportunities our Double Knit Blanket gives us is to explore our favorite stew: the one where we throw rustic and refined into the very same pot. And so, one side is our undyed Good Wool, a straight-from-nature rugged beauty, while the other is our sumptuous Mulberry Merino with its subtle shine and smooth finish… Great flavors together!
To make a baby-size blanket in these two yarns, you’ll just need one of our Double Knit Blanket Bundles. Each one includes Good Wool’s Driftwood Gray for one side, and then choose from four different Mulberry Merino colors for the other (this one is gorgeous Persimmon Orange). Want to make it a throw? We tell how many skeins and cast-on stitches to add!
Apart from its two-sided fun, our Double Knit Blanket’s two layers give it a seriously decadent drape and warmth… an heirloom knit for a new baby or an old friend or even yourself!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Materials
Our Double Knit Blanket Bundle has enough yarn to make the Baby size blanket. It includes…
- Yarn A: 3 skeins of Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% undyed Andean highland wool
- Yarn B: 4 skeins of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% extra fine merino wool and 20% mulberry silk
NOTE: To make the Throw size you will need an additional…
- 1 skein of Yarn A
- 2 skeins of Yarn B
Choose from four palettes, shown above from top to bottom…
- Driftwood Gray + Persimmon Orange (This is the palette we used!)
- Driftwood Gray + Super Pink
- Driftwood Gray + Heirloom White
- Driftwood Gray + Dark Loam
You’ll also need…
- US 6, 32-, 40-, or 47-inch circular needles
- Spare US 5 or smaller, 32-, 40-, or 47-inch circular needles
Gauge
21 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in double knit stockinette stitch, using the larger needles
Sizes
Baby (Throw)
- Finished Measurements: 28 x 38 (39 1/2 x 50) inches
Sample: Baby
Notes
Slip Stitches
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise unless indicated in the pattern.
Changing Colors
When changing colors, carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn.
Turn and Slide
Each row in this pattern starts with the instructions to either “Turn” or “Slide” the work:
“Turning the work” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with circular needles: Transfer the needle from your left hand into your right and the needle from your right hand into your left, and flip the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
“Sliding the work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to work the next row is magically there waiting for you!
Stitch Multiple
To adjust the width of the project, cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it.
Pattern
Cast On + Set Up
NOTE: We used a Long Tail Tubular Cast On, omitting the foundation rows, because it is the perfect edge for double knitting. A basic Long Tail Cast On would also do, but make sure to use a smaller needle to cast on!
With Yarn A and the larger needles, cast on 294 (414) stitches.
Set-Up Row 1 (wrong side): Turn work (see Notes) and with Yarn A,*k1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to end of row.
Set-Up Row 2 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Begin Double Knitting
Row 1 (right side): Slide work (see Notes) and with Yarn A, *slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *slip 1 wyib, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for a total of 1 inch, ending with Row 4.
Tack Down
Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 3 times.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Continue Double Knitting
Repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section until piece measures 1 inch from the previous tack down row, ending with Row 4.
Stagger Tack Down
Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 18 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times.
Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn B, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times, *slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 9 times, repeat from * to last 18 stitches, slip 1 wyif, p1, [slip 1 wyib, p1] 8 times.
Row 3 (wrong side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 (right side): Turn work and with Yarn B, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Continue
Repeat from Row 1 of Begin Double Knitting section to Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section until piece measures 37 (49) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section.
Repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section for 1 more inch, until piece measures 38 (50) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4.
Cut Yarn B.
Bind Off
Set-Up Row 1 (right side): Slide work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Set-Up Row 2 (wrong side): Turn work and with Yarn A, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to end of row.
Alternating between needles, slip all the knit stitches onto the working circular needles and all the purl stitches onto spare circular needles.
FOR A LONG TAIL TUBULAR CAST ON…
Slide work and with right side facing you, use Yarn A to bind off in Kitchener Stitch.
IF YOU DID A LONG TAIL CAST ON…
With Yarn A and the right side facing you, bind off using a 3-Needle Bind Off.
Weave in the ends and block as desired!
PRINT
Wow! This is gorgeous! Im going to be starting a beginning knit class in April — would this pattern be easy enough for a beginner to tackle? Also, can this be put in the washer/dryer?
Hi Judie,
Thanks for reaching out! This double knitting technique is fairly unique so it’s new to a lot of knitters, but as long as you have a solid grasp of the basics (knit, purl, casting on and binding off) you should be able to handle it. I would classify it was an advanced-beginner project! I’d suggest trying out a swatch in double knitting with some scrap yarn to see if you think it will work for you!
Both yarns used in this lovely blanket are hand wash only but you can certainly change the yarn out for a washable alternative!
Best,
Cassy
What would be a good washable alternative?
Hello,
Thanks for writing in! For a washable version of this blanket, you could use Anzula Cricket for which you would need 4 skeins of each color!
Alternately, for a non-wool alternative, I would recommend our Cotton Pure, which has a great drape and hand! You will want to go down to a US 5 and cast on 314 or 334 stitches for the smaller size. You will also need 5 skeins of each of 2 colors of the Cotton Pure!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Love the look of this, and there’s a baby on the way to knit for.
Is there any problem with the 2 different weights of yarn and the blanket laying smoothly and not puckering? Do you think it would need up fine with the same yarn on both sides?
Thanks much,
Ellen A.
Hi Ellen,
Thank you for reaching out! For this blanket, you will really want your yarn to be close in gauge. Here there is a slight difference in gauge between the two yarns used, they are essentially the same gauge. If you were to use yarns that were quite different, one side would be larger than the other and/or the fabric would be loose. For a successful double knit fabric, you will really want the two yarns to be quite similar!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This is absolutely gorgeous. I must do it. Being an advanced beginner going back to just basic beginner each time I am off this exercise, I am a little cautious about starting something beautiful. But this is a must. Thank you.
So sweet, love double knitting…you should call this ‘Pick Knit’!
This is absolutely stunning! I would call myself an advanced beginner also, but would not hesitate to delve right into such a well designed and well written pattern! Thank you Purl Soho!
Julie
I want to knit this for my 2 year old grandson, but his skin is sensitive, so no wool. Can you suggest another wool for me? I definitely want the orange and either blue or grey or a neutral for the other side! I’m anxious to get going with this. I’m an advanced beginner!
Hi Betsy,
Thanks for writing in! Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing in! For a non-wool alternative, I would recommend our Cotton Pure, which has a great drape and hand! You will want to go down to a US 5 and cast on 314 or 334 stitches for the smaller size. You will also need 5 skeins of each of 2 colors of the Cotton Pure!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love the colors for Cotton Pure- I would like to make one with a dark blue- could you recommend a few blue/blue pairings for me? Or others you’d recommend for a baby boy? It’s so hard to tell what will look good together from the pictures. Thank you!
Hello Alexis,
Thank you for reaching out! Blue on Blue in Cotton Pure sounds like a lovely Idea. I would recommend either the Nocturnal Blue with Seaside Blue, or Stream Blue with White Caps Blue. If you want a higher contrast I would recommend substituting the Seaside or White Caps Blue for Icicle Blue.
I hope this helps and Happy knitting!
I, too, want to make this for my 2-year old grandson and like the idea of cotton simply…well, for the ease of care given it’s for a 2-year old boy. His favorite color is orange, so I LOVE the persimmon orange offered in the Mulberry Merino. There doesn’t appear to be an orange offering in the Cotton Pure. What do you suggest?
Thank you–
Hi Meg,
Great question! We do have a light orange in Cotton Pure that would be lovely, called Golden Peach! Warm Cider is darker but is more of a yellow-y, orange-y brown!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I tried double-knitting a few years ago, but I think the project was too much for me. This looks a LOT easier, and it might be just the thing to get me to try it again!
Gorgeous!!
I love the colour choices..
Unfortunately I do not understand the “turn and slip”instructions. Is there any video that shows this?
It will help me a lot if I see how I have to do it.
Regards,
Gaby (from Germany)
Hi Gaby,
Thanks for writing in! At present we do not have a video for this pattern but we will certainly keep your request in mind for the future! In general, when you are asked to turn your work, you will do as your normally would when working back and forth on a flat piece and turn your work from one side to another. When you are asked to slide, you will not turn your work but rather slide your stitches from one side of the circular needle to the other, keeping the same side of the work facing you and pushing all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This looks beautiful. Why does it use different weight yarn for each side?
Can it be done with the same weight?
Thanks
Hi Nina,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that the two yarns are slightly different weights! However, they are slightly different rather than quite different with Mulberry Merino being a heavy sport weight and Good Wool being a lighter DK, they can knit to the same gauge. You can certainly use two yarns that are the exact same gauge!
Best,
Cassy
Is it possible to do this in a worsted weight?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly can work this blanket in an alternate weight of yarn! You will need to go up to an appropriate size needle, for worsted weight, I would suggest a US 7 or US 8. To figure out your cast on number, you will want to knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on a multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
If I did it with worsted twist do you have an idea of the quantity of yarn I’ll need to get? Thanks for such a beautiful pattern! So excited to finally try double knitting!
Hi Emily,
Great question! This will very much depend on your personal gauge but I estimate that you will need 7 skeins of each color for the smaller size and 10 skeins of each color for the larger size blanket!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Is this difficult for a beginner knitter? What a beautiful blanket!
Hi Terry,
Thanks for reaching out! This double knitting technique is fairly unique so it’s new to a lot of knitters, but as long as you have a solid grasp of the basics (knit, purl, casting on and binding off) you should be able to handle it. I would classify it was an advanced-beginner project! I’d suggest trying out a swatch in double knitting with some scrap yarn to see if you think it will work for you!
Best,
Cassy
I love this blanket. Just can’t wait to get started.
I wish there was a video to go with this pattern
Hi Lesllaney,
Thanks for writing in! At present we do not have a video for this pattern but we will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
This is so beautiful. What skill level do you think this is: beginner, intermediate or advanced?
Hi Colleen,
Great question! This double knitting technique is fairly unique so it’s new to a lot of knitters, but as long as you have a solid grasp of the basics (knit, purl, casting on and binding off) you should be able to handle it. I would classify it was an advanced-beginner project!
Best,
Cassy
Love this pattern! I’ve been searching for a baby blanket pattern for my baby come June. I am worried about wool for a baby. Any suggestions on other allergy friendly yarns to substitute that would be just as soft and would give just like the wool? Thanks! Can’t wait to start this project!
Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing in! We are happy to help with alternate yarn suggestions! For a non-wool alternative, I would recommend our Cotton Pure, which has a great drape and hand! You will want to go down to a US 5 and cast on 314 or 334 stitches for the smaller size. You will also need 5 skeins of each of 2 colors of the Cotton Pure!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
You’re killin’ me, Smalls. I absolutely cannot purchase another project, but…. I really, really, really want to make this.
I LOVE this pattern! Do you have recommendations for a machine washable yarn substitute? I’d love to gift this but know the new mom won’t have time to hand-wash and lay flat to dry . . .
Thanks!
Hi Hailey,
Thanks for writing in! For a washable version of this blanket, you could use Anzula Cricket for which you would need 4 skeins of each color!
Alternately, for a non-wool alternative, I would recommend our Cotton Pure, which has a great drape and hand! You will want to go down to a US 5 and cast on 314 or 334 stitches for the smaller size. You will also need 5 skeins of each of 2 colors of the Cotton Pure!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This is so pretty! With each pattern you put out, I just want to buy the whole store… I do have one problem here, stemming from my always trying to avoid measuring the length of what I am knitting (counting rows is easier!) Each DK section has a 4-row pattern, and it says to end with row 4 before the tack down. The instructions say to do the tack down after 1 inch of DK, but the Gauge section says 30 rows = 4 inches, so 1 inch = 7.5 rows. Wouldn’t it be easier to simply say “Knit 8 rows of DK (2 of the 4-row sections), then do the tack down part”? Would that ruin the rhythm of the blanket somehow, would it require to change its length? What am I missing? Thank you!!
Hi Mrs. Bee,
Thank you so much for your kind words! In theory, you can knit to rows instead of inches assuming that you are getting gauge! If you would like to use the number of rows instead of the measurement in inches, I would suggest measuring after knitting the 8 rows to ensure that this will give you the correct measurements and then you may proceed with your row counts. For my part, I find that with double knitting, measuring by rows can get a bit confusing as you are sliding your work every other row! You should do what works best for you and I am sure that the result will be a lovely blanket!
Best,
Cassy
I would love to knit this blanket! Is this Good Wool yarn itchy though? It’s ok for babies? I just want to find some soft yarn that will be fine against a baby’s skin. Advice?? Thanks!!
Hello Caitlin,
Thank you for reaching out! While Good Wool is not as soft as super fine merino, it is still soft and very lovely to work with. If you wanted to substitute Good Wool I would look at Anzula’s Cricket or our Cotton Pure.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I can only echo, “beautiful…stunning”!
What are the washing and drying instructions for this wool/blanket?
Hello Monica,
Thank you for reaching out and for your kind words! For this blanket you will hand-wash and lay flat to dry.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Love this double knit blanket. I knitted a swatch/sample and ran into a possible typo on the pattern. The 2 rows for set up for bindoff aren’t correct. Shouldn’t they be Purled instead of Knitted?
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out! For the two set-up rows for the bind off, you will want to knit both rows. For set-up row 1, you are essentially working row 1 of the the regular repeat for the rest of the blanket with is a knit row for Yarn A. For set-up row 2, you are turning your work to show the side that is generally worked with Yarn B and you will be knitting the Yarn B stitches with Yarn A. These two rwos will set you up to complete the tubular bind off!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love this pattern! I have a big stash of bulky yarn that I planned to use for a blanket — if I adjusted the guage, do you think this pattern would hold up under the weight of the chunkier yarn?
HI Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out! You can certainly regauge this pattern to work with different weights of yarn! The think that you may want to keep in mind is that the bulkier the yarn the heavier the blanket. As double knit gives you two layers of yarn, the resulting blanket could be quite heavy indeed! That said, go ahead and knit up a gauge swatch and see how you like the fabric. If the fabric is pleasing to you, you should be good to go!
Best,
Cassy
I purchased this bundle to make for a friend who is expecting and I cannot wait to try a more challenging (for me) pattern!
I do have a question about the pattern when you are casting on it states to cast on 294 stitches but then has (414) next to it. What is that number for?
Thanks!
Hi Christine,
Thanks for writing in! How exciting! For this pattern we offer 2 size options! The cast on number listed in parentheses is for the larger version of the blanket. For your bundle, you will want to cast on the smaller number!
I hope that this clears things up and happy knitting!
Cassy
I just want to make sure I understand:
Repeat from Row 1 of Begin Double Knitting section to Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section until piece measures 37 (49) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4 of Stagger Tack Down section.
Repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section for 1 more inch, until piece measures 38 (50) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4.
Does this mean:
Start again with 1. Begin TD
Continue with?
2. Tack down
3. Continue DK
4. Stagger TD
Or skip 2. And 3?
Hi Liz,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help! For the “Continue” section, you will:
1. Work “Begin Double Knitting” section.
2. Work “Tack Down” section.
3. Work “Continue Double Knitting” section.
4. Work “Stagger Tack Down” section.
You will then repeat these sections until you reach 37 or 49 inches and then you will repeat Rows 1-4 of Begin Double Knitting section for 1 more inch, until piece measures 38 (50) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 4.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Yet another gorgeous pattern, thank you! I’m a little unclear about how to adjust the width of the pattern though… multiple of 10 + 7 stitches, then double it. I’m looking to make a throw roughly 50″ wide with the same gauge as the pattern and came up with 528. Is that correct?? I’d hate to cast on and have it be incorrect. 🙂
Hi Stefani,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! For a 50 inch wide blanket, you will want to cast on either 514 stitches of 534 stitches (514/2=257 so 25×10=250+7=257×2=514).
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you so much!!
Thanks for this beautiful pattern, as always.
My question is for the long tail tubular cast on. Your link redirects to your video where this cast on is explained for 1×1 rib. Does the long tail tubular cast on necessarly need to be for ribbing? Or is there another long tail tubular cast on method ? In this pattern, must we cast on as if for ribbing?
Many thanks,
Stephanie
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! This is the correct long tail tubular cast on! You will be casting on as for ribbing as double knitting is essentially working both sides of the fabric from one side (so knits for the side that is facing you and purls for the side that is not). You will cast on as for 1×1 ribbing but the effect will be 2 knit sides!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m not sure how to “carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back”. Will I get a separation of the two layers with this type of double knitting if it’s not done properly? Thanks, Susan
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out! All this means is that you will cary up your new yarn in order to knit with it. It will connect the front to the back each time you are changing colors.
I hope this clears things up for you and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I adore this pattern, so beautiful ! I am currently making a swatch and my selvedge edges look sloppy, loose and not a nice even side edge. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. Any advice and/or tips on how to make the selvedge look like the pictured model?
Thanks ever so much !
Hello Gemma,
Thank you for reaching out! Is the main issue that the selvedge is loose, or does there seem to be something else going on as well? I would make sure that you are carrying your yarn up in back when switching colors and try your best to keep consistent tension. Blocking can also help neaten your edges, our sample was blocked. When you are finished with your swatch I would tray blocking it and seeing if that eliminates the issue.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I love the relative simplicity of this pattern (since so many double knitting patterns have complex charts). It’s a great “zen” project to work while watching TV if you’re comfortable with double knitting!
I did have one question, though. I was taught to knit and purl the stitches all in one pass when double knitting, as in you carry both colors and alternate K1 with color A and P1 with color B. Is there any reason this pattern can’t be worked that way? Is this just another technique for double knitting, or is there a fundamental difference between the two techniques that I’m not seeing in my mind’s eye?
Thanks!
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for your kind words! If you have done enough double knitting to be comfortable with altering the pattern to your usual technique, go for it! The two methods do produce the same fabric – our technique is just a bit more beginner friendly to help out knitters who are new to Double Knitting.
Good luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I love this pattern! I recently purchased the yarn needed and I am attempting for the 3rd time. My question is this-what is meant by the yarn in front or yarn in back. Is it a regular knit with the yarn in back then bring the yarn in front to slip the next stitch off or should the knit stitch be done also w the yarn in front? Thank you.
Hi Debra,
Thanks for your question! The yarn in front or yarn in back instructions refer only to the slipped stitch – for example, when the pattern reads “*k1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from *,” you will knit the first stitch with the yarn in back as normal, bring the yarn to the front of the work, slip the next stitch purlwise, then return the yarn to the back of the work before knitting the next stitch. Similarly, when the pattern reads “*slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), p1, repeat from *,” you will slip the first stitch purlwise with the yarn in the back of the work, bring your yarn forward to purl as usual, then return the yarn to the back of the work before slipping the next stitch.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Love the pattern. Thank you. For the edge not clear what carry up in back means. When I am ready to start a new row with yarn A – will I carry Yarn A in front of yarn B. And then start knitting yarn A
Hello Carol,
Thank you for reaching out! When we knit this blanket we carried the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn, this means that when you are ready to start a new row in yarn A, it will go behind yarn B to begin your row.
I hope this clears things up and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Looks like a great pattern and I am trying to do this on some scrap yarn but the long tail tubular cast on is killing me.
Hi Amy,
I’m sorry to hear you’re having difficulties! Have you seen our tutorial for the Long Tail Tubular Cast On? I agree that it can be tricky but it creates a lovely edge once you master it! I would definitely recommend practicing on straight needles rather than circular until you get the hang of it, and if you ultimately decide against it, don’t fret! A regular Long Tail Cast On will look just fine!
Warmly,
Julianna
I’ve knit up a sample swatch and both sides are “open”. Not sure what I’m doing wrong. Can you please help??? Thank you!
Denise
Hello Denise,
Thank you for reaching out! When you say open, are the two sides attached at all, or are there gabs appearing? How many stitches did you cast on for your swatch? I hope I can help!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla,
Thank you for your reply. I tried another swatch (26 stitches) and only one side was open. Should I be twisting the yarns when I switch colors? Thank you again!
Denise
Hell Denise,
Thank you for clarifying- When you switch colors you will carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn.. This will connect your back and front at each point that you switch colors.
I hope this clears things up and let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am loving this design!
I am maki my test swatch and my sides are open too (except for the rows with a tack down). Am I doing something wrong or is that right? I’m a little confused about the carrying the yarn up the back even though I’m clear how to normally change colors. I think it’s because often there is a slipped stich at the end …? Maybe these issues are related.
And I cast on 34 for my swatch.
I didn’t do the long tail cast on, I just did regular with the smaller size 5 needles- hope that’s ok!
Hello Megan,
Thank you for reaching out! I think what could be going wrong is that you are not carrying your old yarn up the selvedge when changing colors. When changing colors you will carry the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn, this will connect the front and back of the blanket at each point that you change colors. If you do not do this you will have a front and back completely disconnected from one another.
I hope this makes sense and please let us know I f we can clarify any of this for you.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you! Ok so these issues are related. I guess I’m not clear how to carry it up the back when sometimes there is a slip for the last stich and the two yarns are separated by a stich.
And long tail cast on with a size 5 is ok right?
Hello Megan,
This is a great question- I will do my best to describe what happens here. If you are doing row 2, your first stitch is a slip stitch, but you will still be carrying color A up. Because color B is behind color A when you do your purl, it carries color A up. Another way to think about it is, if you place color A over color B before you start your row so color B (working yarn) is now placed at the beginning of the row.
I hope this makes sense and let me know if you have any further questions regarding this!
A long tail cast on works great for this project, and as long as you are happy with your gauge US5 should be fine.
Good luck and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for such a beautiful pattern! I’m thinking of making this in blue/orange. The Persimmon Orange in Mulberry Merino is perfect, and seeing that you recommend Cricket as an alternative, would it work to mix these two yarns? Also, how about pairing Mulberry Merino with Cotton Pure or Cricket with Cotton Pure? Would that work? Cotton on one side, merino on the other? Or would it be better to go with all cotton? Thanks in advance for your help!
Hello Jennifer,
Thank you for your kind words and for your question! I believe that Mulberry Merino, Cotton Pure and Cricket are all close enough in gauge that you could mix them in any combination for this blanket. I would still, of course, knit up a gauge swatch before jumping in to avoid any surprises along the way.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
This is just beautiful and I have started knitting the blanket. My question (in anticipation of finishing this project) is, what is the neatest way to weave in the ends given that both sides are knit and both sides are the ‘right’ sides? I hope this question is not too confusing. Thank you.
Hi Bernie,
Good question! The best way to weave in your ends in double knitting is to use duplicate stitch from the outside of the project for an inch or two, and then bury your ends by inserting your tapestry needle into the open space inside of the blanket, bringing it up a few inches away, and then trimming your yarn close to the surface so the end will pop back into the blanket and disappear. I would also suggest making sure your yarn tails are on the outside or right side of the blanket so they are easier to find when you are done!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Love the color and pattern! I purchased the kit, but I’m having trouble with my swatch. I tend to knit tightly, but my gauge is WAY off when i use size 6 needles…eyeing it, I think I’d have to go up to at least 8, which looks too large for the yarn. Is the gauge correct? Using that gauge, and casting on 294 stitches instead of 21, wouldn’t the final dimension of the baby blanket be closer to 56 inches?
Hello Jillian,
Thank you for this question! Because this blanket is knit double, you are knitting both the front and back at the same time. This means that though you are casting on 294 stitches, this is for both the front and back of the blanket, so you will actually have 147 stitches in the front and 147 in the back.
I hope this clears things up for you and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Ah, I get it now! So really, for the gauge swatch, I should cast on 42, for 21 stitches on each side in double knit! Thank you for that clarification!
I would like to knit this in the larger throw using the cotton pure. I’ve read through all of the above comments and saw that for the baby throw, you recommend 5 skeins of each color of the cotton pure yarn. Do I need 6 or 7 skeins of each color of cotton pure for the larger size throw?
Hi Tuesday,
Thanks for writing in! Since the Cotton Pure is just a little thinner than Good Wool and Mulberry Merino, I would suggest getting 7 skeins of each color for the throw size blanket and increasing your cast on to 434 or 454 stitches.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Awesome….thank you so much!
This is a beautiful pattern! I would like to make one using Pure Cotton in the color Purple Heath. It is so hard to tell on the computer screen so would you mind recommending which gray color you would use for the second color? Would you use Cloud Gray or Bucket Gray or even more of an off-white tone? Thank you!!
Hi Shirely,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that Purple Heath would be lovely with either Cloud Gray or Bucket Gray. I think that Cloud Gray would give you more of a punch and I like the contrast in color value between the two of them and it would make a lovely blanket!
Best,
Cassy
Hi there! 3 questions for you:
1. How many stitches would I need to increase to turn this into a throw rather than a baby blanket? I want to do it in Cotton Pure so I can wash/dry it.
2. How much extra yarn would you recommend I purchase?
3. How can I get the pattern without purchasing the “bundle”?
Look forward to hearing from you.
Hi Theo,
Thanks for reaching out! We are happy to help!
1. For the throw size using Cotton Pure, I would suggest casting on 374 stitches.
2. For the throw size, you will need 9 skeins of each of the two colors.
3. The free pattern can be found above! If you would like to print it or download it as a PDF, you can do so! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments. Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
Best,
Cassy
Hello!
Great blanket and I would love to make this. Can you explain to me what “tack down” means? Does it mean that you will knit for X number of rows and then tack down the progress and then start the double knitting again?
Thank you for your help.
Tina
Hi Tina,
Thanks for reaching out! The “Tack Down” portion of the pattern is still double knitting but with a slight stitch pattern variation which will cause one stitch of the opposite color to appear on the the outside of the blanket. If you read through the pattern, you will see that there are three stitch patterns, “Double Knitting,” “Tack Down,” and “Stagger Tack Down.” You will be alternating working one inch of the Double Knitting stitch pattern with one four row repeat of either Tack Down or Stagger Tack down – although all of these are Double Knitting, the Tack Down sections will bind the two layers together and create the adorable contrasting stitches on each side.
I hope that clarifies the directions! Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello, I really love your patterns, but could you please give metric needle sizes as well as US needle sizes? I live in Europe and sometimes find it confusing to convert the needle sizes. Thank you!
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in! We totally hear you regarding metric sizes and measurements. This is something that is currently under consideration, so we really appreciate your input! For this pattern, a US 6 needle is equivalent to 4mm needle, and a US 5 is equivalent to a 3.75mm needle.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I cannot do the long tail or the long tail tubular cast-on. Can I do knitted cast-on, but with a bigger-sized needle?
Hi Manisha,
Thanks for reaching out! A knitted cast on will be just fine, but we actually recommend casting on with a needle one size smaller if you are not doing the tubular cast on. Otherwise your cast on edge may end up a bit wider than the rest of the blanket!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
I really love this pattern …Do you think I could realize a scarf with this technic ? Should I change the yarns and how many stitches to cast on ?
Hi Nadine,
Thanks for writing in! I think you could adapt this pattern into a fantastic scarf! For a twelve inch wide scarf, I would cast on 114 stitches and follow the rest of the pattern as written.
Best of luck and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Which side is considered the “right side”? Is it the side that’s primarily Yarn A or B?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for reaching out! Although technically both sides are the right sides in the finished blanket, we refer to the side that is primarily Yarn B as the right side in our instructions.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am new to double knitting. All the videos on the web show that you bring both yarns across alternating knit and purl. Am I reading the instructions correctly that I only “work” one yarn for each row (leaving the second one behind)? I have done a few test swatches this way, and I keep getting a checkerboard pattern (sort of), instead of the solid colored knit. Hope you can help…I love the photos of the blanket and am dying to duplicate.
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that our instructions for Double Knitting use only one color per row – the two methods do produce the same fabric but our technique is just a bit more beginner friendly to help out knitters who are new to Double Knitting. I would suggest paying close attention to the position of the yarn when slipping the stitches as having the yarn incorrectly in the front or back of the slipped stitch will cause the wrong color to be visible on the outside of the blanket, but if you are still having trouble feel free to send a picture of your knitting to customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can see just what is going wrong!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks Julianna,
I figured out my mistake. For my swatches, I was using an “odd” number of stitches, so the pattern was off. Back on track again. Thanks!
Hi Laurie,
I’m glad to hear it! Let us know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Julianna
Love this and bought enough for a throw. Now I’m back home and cannot figure out when the whole tack down thing takes place. Are there two different tack Downs? One staggered and one not? I may have over estimated my abilities. Thank you for any help you can give me.
Hi Dottie,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that there are two different sets of instructions for the Tack Down portion which will stagger the placement of the Tack Down stitches. When you are reading through the instructions, you will see that after the first 1″ of Double Knitting, you will work the instructions titled “Tack Down.” You will then return to double knitting for another inch, and then work the instructions titled “Stagger Tack Down.” You will then continue alternating “Tack Down” and “Stagger Tack Down,” with an inch of plain double knitting between each tack down section, for the rest of the blanket.
I hope that helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Julianna
This is a beautiful blanket and I want to make it but I do not understand the slide technique. I guess I’m a permanent beginner. I worked on scrap yarn and it was fine until I got to the slide. I’d hate to ruin beautiful yarn. Is it possible to use the regular technique to do this? Thank you.
Hi Diana,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately this stitch cannot be done without sliding your stitches to the other end of the needle, but it should be relatively straightforward! The pattern must be worked on circular needles or, for a small swatch, double pointed needles. When the pattern states to “slide the work” you will simply push all the stitches to the other end of the circular or double pointed needles so that the next row will begin at the same edge the previous row did. You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to work the next row is magically there waiting for you!
I hope that helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Julianna
Just started this beautiful blanket. Having one problem. When the right side is facing, the left edge is open, but the right edge is joined. I’m not twisting the colors, bringing them up the same way on both sides. Any ideas or suggestions? Just finished row 1 of the stagger tack down section. Thank you!
Hello Gail,
Thank you for reaching out! The way that each side is connected is by carrying the new yarn up the selvedge in back of the old yarn when you change colors. This happens in row 2 and row 4 so every other row you will be carrying up your yarn to connect the front and back.
I hope this clears things up and let us know if we can further explain any of this.
Happy knitting!
Marilla