Knitter’s Choice Striped Blanket
The Knitter’s Choice Striped Blanket, designed by Ksenia Naidyon, invites you to put your heart into your knitting! The project starts with our new Yonder. A real knitter’s yarn (our design team is bananas for it!), it is 50% highland wool and 50% alpaca, with all the qualities that touch a knitter’s heart: beauty in the spin, depth in the color, and resilience in the hand.
First choice: Pick your palette! Yonder’s beautiful colors start with four undyed neutrals straight from the naturally occurring shades of alpaca and wool fibers. The rest of the colors are dyed over these natural hues, creating a beautifully heathered and earthy palette.
You’ll be knitting stripes, so for color, the sky’s the limit, but if you prefer options, we put together nine Knitter’s Choice Striped Blanket Bundles in two sizes, including the warm pinks and brown of Velveteen Rabbit and the crisp maritime vibe of First Mate.
Raring to go by now? Great, you get to cast on four times for four identical squares! In garter stitch, the knitting is simple. For each square, you cast on at one corner, then use basic increases to knit the first half and basic decreases for the second half, striping in three colors as you go. And if you’re worried that all those stripes mean lots of ends to weave in, don’t be! Ksenia walks you through a technique for knitting in the ends as you work, so once you’re done with the knitting you get to move on to the (even more) fun part!
Four squares under your belt and time to pick your layout! By rotating the squares, you get to choose how to sew them together into your own composition. Our Mattress Stitch tutorial covers the technical aspect (a breeze!), and we suggest four layouts, but there are even more possibilities… Let your yarn guide you and follow your heart!
Chevrons, diagonals, diamonds, whatever you compose, the joy all along is Yonder in your hands. A worsted weight spun up with three even plies, it is plump and springy, with a very satisfying, toothy feel!
And it knits up into the ideal fireside blanket, robust and warm. The highland wool is in for the long haul, while the alpaca adds a downy softness that will go straight to your heart!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed for Purl Soho by Ksenia Naidyon, the talented designer behind Life Is Cozy, where she shares patterns for her beautiful hand knits, instructions for must-know stitch patterns, and reviews on needles, books, and notions… Everything we knitters love!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoKnittersChoiceStripedBlanket, and #PurlSohoYonder. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Our Knitter’s Choice Striped Blanket Bundle includes all the yarn you’ll need to make a Crib (Throw) blanket of your own…
- Purl Soho’s Yonder, 50% alpaca and 50% highland wool. Each skein worsted/aran weight yarn is approximately 140 yards/ 100 grams.
- Main Color (MC): 3 (9) skeins; approximately 390 (1260) total yards required.
- Contrast Color 1 (CC1): 2 (5) skeins; approximately 195 (630) total yards required.
- Contrast Color 2 (CC2): 2 (5) skeins; approximately 195 (630) total yards required.
You will also need…
- US 10 (6 mm), 40-inch circular needles
NOTE: If you’re making the Throw size, be sure to check your gauge and consider leaving the last skein of each CC unwound until you are sure you need it. If you don’t end up needing it, you can return unwound yarn for a refund within 30 days of purchase, or within 6 months, for store credit. Our Return Policy has all the details!
PALETTES
We came up with 9 gorgeous palettes, available in Crib and Throw size, each one shown above (in the Throw size). For our samples, we used Hearthstone, Velveteen Rabbit, First Mate, and Climbing Rose.
TOP ROW
PEPPERMINT STICK: MC in Heirloom White; CC1 in Pink Quartz; CC2 in Pink Earth
FLOUR SACK: MC in Heirloom White; CC1 in Winter Sage; CC2 in Pink Earth
FIRST MATE: MC in Heirloom White; CC1in Winter Sage; CC2 in Blue Brook
SECOND ROW
SEAHORSE: MC in Smoky Mauve; CC1 in Pink Quartz; CC2 in Mountain Rose
HEARTHSTONE: MC in Horse Trail; CC1 in Pink Earth; CC2 in Red Oak
VELVETEEN RABBIT: MC in Ginger Brown; CC1 in Mountain Rose; CC2 in Smoky Mauve
BOTTOM ROW
TABBY CAT: MC in Heirloom White; CC1 in Horse Trail; CC2 in Clove Brown
CLIMBING ROSE: MC in Pink Quartz; CC1 in Yellow Dune; CC2 in Kelp Forest
CHAMOMILE: MC in Kelp Forest; CC1 in Heirloom White; CC2 in Yellow Dune
OR INDIVIDUAL SKEINS
Another option is to pick up a Yonder palette of your own devising! Pick up 3 (9) skeins of the Main Color, then pick two Contrast Colors and get 2 (5) skeins of each.
GAUGE
16 stitches and 32 rows (16 ridges) = 4 inches in garter stitch, blocked
SIZES
Crib (Throw)
Finished Dimensions of Basic Square, blocked: 14 x 14 inches (25½ x 25½ inches)
Finished Dimensions of Blanket, blocked: 28¼ x 28¼ inches (51 x 51 inches)
Samples: We knit the Throw size for all of our blankets.
NOTES
CRIB VS THROW
If you decide to knit the Crib size, it will have the same number of stripes as our samples (which are all the Throw size), but the stripes will be thinner.
GARTER RIDGE
A “garter ridge” equals two rows of garter stitch. It looks like a prominent horizontal ridge and is an easy way to count rows!
KNITTING IN ENDS
To spare yourself weaving in ends later, we recommend knitting them in every time you join a new color, starting with the second stitch on your row. To knit in ends as you go, work the first stitch of the row as normal, then bring the non-working yarn over the working yarn at the wrong side of the work, so that when you knit the next stitch, the non-working yarn gets trapped behind the working yarn. Repeat for about 2 inches of knitting.
LAYOUT TEMPLATES
You will make four identical striped squares and then arrange them according to the Layout you like best!
KEY
LAYOUTS
NOTE: For our Velveteen Rabbit blanket we used the top right Layout, but we accidentally mixed up our CC’s for the top right and bottom left squares. We still think it looks beautiful, but feel free to play around with what you prefer!
PATTERN
BASIC SQUARE
NOTE: For Stripes 1-8, you will be increasing, and for Stripes 9-16, you will be decreasing.
STRIPE 1: Contrast Color 1
With Contrast Color 1 (CC1), cast on 3 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): P3.
Row 1 (right side): K2, make 1 left (m1L), k1. [4 stitches]
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, m1L, p2. [5 stitches]
Row 3: K2, m1L, knit to last two stitches, make 1 right (m1R), k2. [2 stitches increased]
Row 4: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 two (6) more times, ending with Row 4. [11 (19) stitches]
Cut CC1, leaving a 2-inch tail.
STRIPE 2: Main Color
Join Main Color (MC), leaving a 2-inch tail.
Row 1 (right side): With MC and knitting in CC tail as you go (see Notes), k2, m1L, knit to last two stitches, m1R, k2. [13 (21) stitches]
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 3: Knitting in MC tail as you go, k2, m1L, knit to last two stitches, m1R, k2. [15 (23) stitches]
Row 4: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 5: K2, m1L, knit to last two stitches, m1R, k2. [2 stitches increased]
Row 6: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 5 and 6 two (6) more times, ending with Row 6. [21 (37) stitches]
Cut MC, leaving a 2-inch tail.
STRIPE 3: Contrast Color 2
Join Contrast Color 2 (CC2), leaving a 2-inch tail.
Row 1 (right side): With CC2 and knitting in MC tail as you go, k2, m1L, knit to last two stitches, m1R, k2. [23 (39) stitches]
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 3: Knitting in CC2 tail as you go, k2, m1L, knit to last two stitches, m1R, k2. [25 (41) stitches]
Row 4: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 5: K2, m1L, knit to last two stitches, m1R, k2. [2 stitches increased]
Row 6: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 5 and 6 two (6) more times, ending with Row 6. [31 (55) stitches]
Cut CC2, leaving a 2-inch tail.
STRIPE 4: Main Color
With MC, work as Stripe 2. [41 (73) stitches]
STRIPE 5: Contrast Color 1
With CC1, work as for Stripe 3 (substituting CC1 for CC2). [51 (91) stitches]
STRIPE 6: Main Color
With MC, work as for Stripe 2. [61 (109) stitches]
STRIPE 7: Contrast Color 2
With CC2, work as for Stripe 3. [71 (127) stitches]
STRIPE 8: Main Color
With MC, work as for Stripe 2. [81 (145) stitches]
STRIPE 9: Contrast Color 1
Join CC1, leaving a 2-inch tail.
Row 1 (right side): With CC1 and in MC tail as you go, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 3: Knitting in CC1 tail as you go, k1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to last three stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1. [143 stitches remain]
Row 4: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 5: K1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 6: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 5 and 6 two (6) more times, ending with Row 6. [73 (129) stitches remain]
Cut CC1, leaving a 2-inch tail.
STRIPE 10: Main Color
Join MC, leaving a 2-inch tail.
Row 1 (right side): With MC and knitting in CC tail as you go, k1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. [71 (127) stitches remain]
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 3: Knitting in MC tail as you go, k1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. [69 (125) stitches remain]
Row 4: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 5: K1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 6: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 5 and 6 two (6) more times, ending with Row 6. [63 (111) stitches remain]
Cut MC, leaving a 2-inch tail.
STRIPE 11: Contrast Color 2
Join CC2, leaving a 2-inch tail.
Row 1 (right side): With CC2 and knitting in MC tail as you go, k1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. [61 (109) stitches remain]
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 3: Knitting in CC2 tail as you go, k1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. [59 (107) stitches remain]
Row 4: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 5: K1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 6: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 5 and 6 two (6) more times, ending with Row 6. [53 (93) stitches remain]
Cut CC, leaving a 2-inch tail.
STRIPE 12: Main Color
With MC, work as for Stripe 10. [43 (75) stitches remain]
STRIPE 13: Contrast Color 1
With CC1, work as for Stripe 11 (substituting CC1 for CC2). [33 (57) stitches remain]
STRIPE 14: Main Color
With MC, work as for Stripe 10. [23 (39) stitches remain]
STRIPE 15: Contrast Color 2
With CC2, work as for Stripe 11. [13 (21) stitches remain]
STRIPE 16: Main Color
Join MC, leaving a 2-inch tail.
Row 1 (right side): With MC and knitting in CC2 tail as you go, k1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. [11 (19) stitches remain]
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 3: Knitting in CC2 tail as you go, k1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. [9 (17) stitches remain]
Row 4: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 5: K1, ssk, knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. [7 (15) stitches remain]
Row 6: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
THROW SIZE ONLY
Repeat Rows 5 and 6 four more times, ending with Row 6. [7 stitches remain]
ALL SIZES
Next Row (right side): K1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. [5 stitches remain]
Next Row: P1, purl 2 together, p2. [4 stitches remain]
Next Row: K1, k2tog, pass second stitch on right needle over first, pass the last stitch from left needle over stitch on right needle. [1 stitch remains]
Cut MC and pull through remaining stitch.
REPEAT
Repeat Basic Square 3 more times, for a total of 4 squares.
FINISHING
Weave in remaining ends and gently wet block squares to finished dimensions.
Arrange squares in your desired pattern using one of the Layout Templates (see Notes), and seam them together using a new length of MC yarn and Mattress Stitch.
LEARN ABOUT YONDER + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Yonder has all the qualities that will touch your knitter’s heart! 50% highland wool and 50% alpaca, this worsted/aran-weight yarn has a robust and earthy feel that breathes and blooms while you knit… Very satisfying! Pick from 4 undyed tones straight from the animals who grew them, plus a palette of rich heathers dyed over those neutrals.
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our growing collection of Yonder knitting patterns and cast on!
More Worsted/Aran-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of worsted/aran-weight yarn
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop wool yarn
- Shop alpaca yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
This looks like so much fun to knit, love all the interesting ways this can be arranged. Thank you for this pattern.
I am a dedicated to extremely soft knits as wool irritates my skin. If you all had the time could you make a list of knits from most to least soft?
Thank you again.
Hi Chermia,
The softness of a project depends on the yarn you choose to knit it with, so it’ll be more helpful if I point you in the direction of our softest yarns! I’d recommend checking out yarns that are made from merino wool. Merino fibers are so fine that they bend to the touch, rather than sticking up and scratching. Most people who are sensitive to normal wool do not have the same reaction to merino wool! Here’s a link to all of our yarns that contain merino.
If you’re interested in this pattern in particular, then I’d recommend using either Plenty or Partridge as an alternate yarn. Both of these yarns are also worsted weight, but they’re made from 100% merino wool!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for this!
Hi there! Could you do this like the basic baby blanket if you are kinda chicken about this pattern? If you picked seven colors for a throw, how many skeins of each might you need? How about the number of stitches in garter stitch?
Love the new Yonder and eager to make a wedding gift with it.
Thanks,
Shelly
Hi Shelly,
That’s a wonderful idea! The Super Easy Baby Blanket would be fantastic knit up in Yonder. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like (approximately 30 inches would be a good measurement) and cast on the nearest whole number. Then you can knit each row and change colors once you run out of each skein!
All the best,
Lili
Is this blanket reversible?
Hi Fran,
This blanket isn’t quite reversible, unfortunately. Since you’re working with multiple colors, there will be little “blips” of color on the wrong side wherever the color changes. I think that effect is beautiful though, so you could totally display that side of the blanket if you’d like! But it won’t be identical to the right side.
All the best,
Lili
THE BLANKET LOOKS AMAZING…BUT I CANNOT IN ANY WAY KNIT A BABY BLANKET USING YARN THAT CANNOT, AT LEAST, BE MACHINE WASHED!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out about this! We completely understand desiring a machine washable blanket, and we’re happy to recommend a machine washable yarn for you to try. For this pattern, I’d recommend using Campo, since it’s also a worsted weight yarn, just like Yonder. Campo is made of a mix of cotton and wool, so you can wash it on a cold, gentle cycle. We do recommend laying it flat to dry though!
I hope this gives you another option for this blanket, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
I crochet and was wondering if this yarn can be used for that purpose?Also your yarn is beautiful!! I can knit a little bit but I prefer to crochet. Thank you for the information and help. 😊
Hi Tammy,
Yonder would be a wonderful yarn to crochet with! We recommend using a size G or H (4.5 or 5mm) hook. If you try crocheting with this yarn, please let us know how it goes!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you. Is there a technique that eliminates the blips on the reverse ?
Hi Fran,
I’m afraid that these blips are a natural effect of changing color when you’re knitting, so there unfortunately is no way to avoid them. They only appear on the wrong side though (provided that you switch colors on the right side), so they’re not visible on the right side!
All the best,
Lili
I have knit variations on this blanket for generations of babies. It is loved by parents for swaddling if it’s not too big. I’m going to treat myself to some Purl Soho Yonder, to create a blanket for me to cuddle up in this winter. Can’t wait!!
May I ask why you recommend a 40” circular needle for this pattern? I’m making a crib version and I’m constantly dealing with the 40” of cord getting tangled up or in my way. Would a less lengthy circular needle be better for the crib version?
Hi Claire,
Thanks for reaching out! We recommend a 40-inch needle mainly for the Throw size, since each square ends up being about 36 inches along the diagonal at the widest point. For the Crib size though, you can absolutely get away with 24-inch needles, since the longest the diagonal will get is about 20 inches!
All the best,
Lili
How do I print the directions for this pattern without having typing overlaying the directions so I cannot read them ?
Hi Suzanne,
I’d recommend using the “print” function on this page! If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
All the best,
Lili
I have knitted the first 19 stitches, easy peasy. Should I have little holes (eyelets) when I am doing the increases? It doesn’t look you have any in your photos.
Am I doing something wrong?
Thank you!
Hi Chermia,
Hmmmm, there shouldn’t be much of a space where the increases are. Would you be able to send a photo of your work to [email protected]? That way, we’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
When you’re doing your M1L/M1R are you knitting into the back of these stitches on the next row?
Hi Pam,
No, there is no need to knit into the back of these stitches on the next row because the increases themselves twist the stitches. If you’re finding that your increases don’t seem right, our M1 Right + Make 1 Left tutorial might help fix the problem! Please let us know if you need more help… We’d be happy to get to the bottom of it!
Best,
Whitney
I’m confused. The Notes state that for crib size (which is what I am making) there are the same number of rows as throw size but the rows are thinner. However when I read through the directions, there doesn’t appear to be instructions that differentiate between Crib size and Throw size. Obviously, I’m missing something obvious.
Hi Meg,
I’m sorry to hear that you’re confused, and we’re eager to help clarify the pattern! The difference between the Crib and Throw size comes down to the number of rows you knit per stripe. If you take a look at STRIPE 1: CONTRAST COLOR 1, for example, you’ll see the following instruction:
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 two (6) more times, ending with Row 4. [11 (19) stitches]
For the Crib size, you repeat these two rows just 2 more times, while for the Throw size, you repeat them 6 more times. That’s what causes the difference in width for the stripes!
I hope this helps clear things up, and please let me know if you have any other questions as you knit.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you. I knew it had to be something simple I was missing.
To be clear, I should have said “stripes” rather than “rows”. My confusion is that it seems the same number of rows are knit for Crib size and Throw.
Thanks
Can you please clarify sizes? The measurement is in inches and again in inches in the brackets. What am I not understanding?
Hi Sue,
Thank you for writing in! This pattern offers sizes for both crib size and throw size. The instructions for the throw (larger size) are written in brackets. So the crib size measures 28¼ x 28¼ inches while the throw size measures 51 x 51 inches. I hope this helps!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Also…I’m guessing this could be made bigger than the throw size…?
You absolutely could! Just keep in mind that you might need more yarn than what is suggested in the pattern when making modifications.
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi there
I just casted on this project and I was wondering- on Row 2 ( P2, m1L, p2), do I need to make my left leaning decrease purl wise or knit wise?
Many thanks!
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for checking! All the increase and decrease stitches in this pattern are knitwise.
All the best,
Lili
Looks like a great blanket. I’m confused since in the description of the project it clearly says “all knits, no purls!”, but in the pattern I see purls. P2 etc.
Why say no purls when there are purls? That is kind misleading. Just saying. Do you have to do the purls as written? What happens if you just knit?
Thanks.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for writing in! We can see how that wording could cause some confusion and have made the edits to remove that bit of information. Each square does indeed need just a few purl stitches in order to complete the stockinette edges. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I just completed my first square, and the corner on my bind of side is long and wonky. The other three corners are nice, 90° angles, but the fourth is a little less than 90°. Any tips to fix this?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! Would you mind sending a photo of your work to [email protected]? That way, we can better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
It’s confused. If this is a blanket knitted in garter stitch, why are the wrong side rows made with purl stitches? Shouldn’t they be knit stitches on both sides?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for your question! You are correct that garter is knit on both the right and wrong side when working flat. The purl stitches on the blanket are only for the edge stitch detail. The rest are in fact knit stitches which will create the main body of the fabric!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I just completed my first square, and the corner on my bind off side is long and wonky. The other three corners are nice, 90° angles, but the fourth is a little less than 90°. Any tips to fix this?
Hi Stephanie,
Thats a great question! As long as your stitch count is correct, I would recommend moving on in the pattern. These wonky parts are sure to block out once you have completed the project and give it a good soak. It could also be helpful to block your square before moving on the next one but that is completely optional.
All the best,
Gavriella
I’ve just done the suggested stitch counts for a gauge test and have come up with something that’s rectangular and larger than 4”x4”—more like 5.25”x6.5.
What might I be doing wrong and how can I adjust?
Many thanks.
—Anne Cohen
Hi Anne,
It sounds like your gauge is larger than the gauge of the pattern! I’d recommend dropping down a needle size or two and knitting up another swatch. That should bring the stitch and row counts much closer to the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
I am about to start knitting the knitter’s choice blanket. I did my gauge swatch and BEFORE pressing it, my measurements are roughly 4.25/4.5” wide by 4” tall. Do you think it’s ok to just start knitting it? The pattern notes say that you might not need the last skein of yarn, so I’m hoping at worst the blanket would just be slightly big. I just want to be sure I won’t run out of yarn.
Hi Noa,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you are very close to the right gauge! I would recommend knitting a larger swatch on the US 10 needles and also blocking it. Everybody’s edge stitches are a little wonky so they shouldn’t be included in the measurement, and a larger swatch always results in a more accurate measurement. For this pattern, I would cast on at least 20 stitches and knit for 5 inches, and then block the swatch before measuring the center 4 inches. You might be interested in our All About Gauge tutorial, which takes an in-depth look at how to get the most information from your gauge swatch. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Thanks so much, Gavriella. I will do another swatch and see where I net out. FYI, in the tutorial you referenced, it says to knit exactly the number of stitches referenced for gauge (no extras). I will try adding the extra stitches to avoid counting the wonky side stitches. 🙂
You are very welcome and we are always happy to help every step of the way! That is a good catch, you will definitely always want to make a swatch larger than the 4″ unless it’s for something smaller such as a sock, I’ll be sure to check this out with the team in the meantime. Please don’t hesitate to let us know if you have any other questions along the way!
After weaving in ends of attached yarn, what is the best way to hide the fuzzy ends that stick up? Thanks.
Hi Chris,
Once your ends have been woven in, you can just snip them being careful not to cut your blanket threads. Another thing I find helpful is to use a felting needle to hide the extra bits of thread but this is completely optional. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you Gavriella! You’ve thrown me for a loop! I googled felting needles and come up with how to make felted animals! Would I just lay the fuzzy bit onto a stitch and start punching down?
Hi Chris,
I am so happy you were able to find the needles I mentioned. That is exactly correct! I would just suggest doing this a bit more gently on your blanket so that you don’t felt through to the opposite side! Please let me know if you have any other questions and I would be happy to help!
Warmly,
Gavriella
Last question – which gauge and tip would work best with a Yonder stitch? I’m using a size 8 needle if that helps you with the size of my stitch. I assume I lay the end onto a purl stitch.
Hi Chris,
That’s a great question! Depending on the gauge of the pattern, the needle size can vary. For this pattern specifically we used a US 10 for a gauge of 16 stitches and 32 rows (16 ridges) for a 4 inch square in garter stitch, blocked. To read more about gauge and measuring, you can check out our All About Gauge tutorial. Please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Sorry, I wasn’t clear. I was asking about the size and tip shape if the felting needle.
Oh I see, sorry about that! Any size felting needle should work fine!
Hello! I purchased skeins of Goodwool and Season Alpaca to make the double knit blanket but I chickened out.
Would this pattern work with the yarns mentioned above and only using 2 colours?
Assuming I just need to adjust when to start decreasing t make bigger squares but want to make sure it won’t throw up any technical issues.
Many thanks.
Hi Bethwen,
I’m afraid those yarns are a bit too thin for this pattern. I’d recommend doubling them up to be able to achieve the same gauge as the pattern and you should be all set! One thing to keep in mind is you may need more yarn in this case. We are also always happy to help you get started on your Double Knit Blanket through one of our free 1-on-1 zoom sessions as well!
All the best,
Gavriella
Ah! That makes sense. Many thanks for your advice. I’ll think about tackling the double knit again.
Thank you!
Hi,
I’m quite sure which layout I want to use for my blanket. Can I use the technique used with the Prism Blanket to knit the squares together as you go, instead of sewing them together after they are finished? I think I would find that much more convenient.
Hi Anne,
That’s a great thought, but it will depend on the layout you choose! For the Prism Blanket, the garter ridges for each square go in the same direction for all the squares, but that’s not the case for most of the layouts of this blanket. It will work for the top right layout, but I don’t think it’s possible for the others, unfortunately!
All the best,
Lili