Four Spokes Hat
No bells, no whistles, no flourishes, no feathers, the beauty of our Fours Spokes Hat lies in its straightforward design and subtle details.
Named for the four tracks that radiate from the top of the hat, our Four Spokes Hat is an ideal beginner project for the design-minded. You knit it flat and seam up the back, so no circular or double pointed needles, and the simple pattern offers a tackle-able challenge, working garter stitch that jogs a row at regular intervals. Fun and easy!
We chose Season Alpaca to knit up this cozy winter workhorse. Choose from 14 evocative colors, each one drawn from the beauty of the natural world, from Ebbtide Blue and Peony Pink to Peach Stone and Lavender Moon.
The quietly handsome Four Spokes Hat defies age; babies, middle schoolers, middle agers, and grandpas can pull it on and go. All it takes is a single skein of yarn, the free pattern, and a little bit of simple knitting!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoFourSpokesHat, and #PurlSohoSeasonAlpaca. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 (1, 1, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Season Alpaca, 100% baby alpaca. Each skein is 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 104 (127, 194, 237) yards required.
- US 3 (3.25mm), straight or circular needles
- 7 stitch markers
NOTE: This is enough yarn for 2 Baby size hats or 1 of the Kid size and Adult Small size. We used exactly one skein to knit our Adult Large hat. If you want to be sure you have enough, consider ordering an extra skein. If you don’t end up needing it, you can return unwound yarn for a refund within 30 days of purchase, or within 6 months, for store credit. Our Return Policy has all the details!
For our hats we used the colors…
- Baby: Lavender Moon
- Kid: Heirloom White
- Adult Small/ Medium: Meadow Mushroom
- Adult Medium/ Large: Peach Stone
Gauge
23 stitches and 47 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Size
Baby (Kid, Adult Small/Medium, Adult Medium/Large)
- Finished Circumference: 14 (16½, 18, 20¾) inches
- Finished Height: 7 (8, 9, 10) inches
Note
This pattern is knit flat and seamed at the end. One of the reasons it’s knit flat is because garter stitch is always easier to knit flat than in the round! The other reason is because the in-the-round jog either causes you to lose one of the “tracks” that makes one of the spokes or to create one where it shouldn’t be!
Pattern
Using Long Tail Cast On, cast on 80 (96, 104, 120) stitches.
Set-Up Row: [P4, place marker (pm), k16 (20, 22, 26), pm] 4 times, omitting the last marker on the last repeat. [7 markers placed]
Row 1 (right side): [Knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), purl to next marker, sm] 4 times, omitting the last slip marker on the last repeat.
Row 2 (wrong side): [Purl to next marker, sm, knit to marker, sm] 4 times, omitting the last slip marker on the last repeat.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 5 (6, 7, 8) inches from cast-on edge.
Shape Crown
Row 1 (right side): [Ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, sm, purl to next marker, sm] 4 times, omitting the last slip marker on the last repeat. [8 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): [Purl to next marker, sm, knit to next marker, sm] 4 times, omitting the last slip marker on the last repeat.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 six (8, 9, 11) more times, removing stitch markers on last repeat of Row 2. [24 stitches]
Next Row (right side): K3tog, *p2, ssk, k2tog, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1. [16 stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): K1, p2, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Next Row: *K2tog, ssk, repeat from * to end of row. [8 stitches]
Cut yarn, leaving a 36-inch tail.
Finish
If using circular needles, do not turn the work and slide the 8 remaining stitches to the other end of the needles; or if using straight needles, slip the 8 remaining stitches to the other needle.
Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle and insert the needle through each of the remaining 8 stitches, starting with the stitch at the opposite end from the working yarn.
Thread the tail through these stitches again and pull the tail tight to securely close the top of the crown.
With the tail, use Seaming Garter Stitch to seam the hat from the crown to the cast-on edge.
Weave in the ends and block if desired!
This is so lovely!
Can it be worked in the round to avoid seaming? If so, would I need to switch to DP needles for the decreases?
Thanks for this beautiful pattern.
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! At present, this hat is only available written flat. You can certainly try knitting it in the round. I do think that it will be a bit of trial and error to convert the pattern but if you are up for a challenge, you can certainly give it a go!
Best,
Cassy
I am going to knit a baby version in the round using Magic Loop on a 32” needle. When I knit garter stitch I use one of these two methods
(1) either knit one row and purl the next
or
(2) knit a row on the side facing me then turn and knit the next row on the reverse side and continue switching knitting between facing and reverse sides.
How would this hat work up in mulberry merino??
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for writing in! Our Mulberry Merino is a bit thicker than the Season Alpaca that we used here. It will probably not be possible to get the gauge that we are getting here resulting in a larger hat. If you would like to use the Mulberry Merino, you could certainly try knitting the next size down using US 4 needles.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Gorgeous! So simple and beautiful. Thank you!
So lovely!! The words “knit flat and seamed up the back” are a knitting symphony to my ears! Thank you!
Julie
Yes, a symphony!
Love this pattern, so simple with the change from knits to purls creating a great design. I too, would prefer to knit this in the round-what exactly would be the difficulty in doing so?
Hi Roxanne,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! At present, this hat is only available written flat. You can certainly try knitting it in the round. I do think that it will be a bit of trial and error to convert the pattern but if you are up for a challenge, you can certainly give it a go!
Best,
Cassy
I’m not very good at seaming, so I am trying knitting in the round. I think the problem comes in with the last repeat of each round. Because the next round will begin with the same stitch that the previous round ended with, the effect of the last spoke is lost. I’m trying a couple of different ways to get around this issue, but haven’t yet found one that gives the same effect as knitting it flat. I love the look of this hat and wish I was better at seaming!
I really love these hat’s are are absolutely awesome. But we only do Crochet. But would appreciate a lovely crochet pattern like this knitted pattern. Thank you.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! This lovely pattern is available as just a knit pattern. We appreciate your request and will certainly keep it in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
superbe,mais y a t-il une traduction en français ou quelqu’ un pourrait-il me le traduire , Merci d’ avance
yvette DUPRAT
Hi Yvette,
Merci pour votre message! Malheureusement, nos patrons sont toujours en anglais!
Merci,
Cassy
this would go nicely with the broken garter scarf!
Yes, I’m happy to see that as well!
I usually choose to knit in the round whenever possible, but this stylish pattern and the excellent video tutorial provide a perfect opportunity to conquer my aversion to seaming. Thanks, Jake and Purl Soho!
What a cute hat! I’m confused, while looking at the picture of the hat, it appears to be garter stitch, but reading the instructions makes me think it’s stockinette stitch. I’m I misreading something or have I not had enough coffee this morning? ?
Hi Sandii,
Thanks for writing in! This lovely hat is in garter stitch! As it this lovely hat is knit flat, you will knit on both sides to get garter stitch. You will then sew the hat up once you are done knitting!
Best,
Cassy
Hi Cassy
I was asking myself the same question as Sandii: how do I get garter stitch if I purl some stitches? I know I have missed something but I cannot figure out what. Help! Please!
Hi Vero,
Thanks for the question! I think that I can help! For this pattern, you will be knitting the knits and purling the purls as you knit back in forth. This will create columns of garter stitch with the transitions creating the spokes!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
ok got it! funny how simple things appear to be not that simple for damaged brains like mine!
many thanks!
This clears it up for me for sure! I was kind of confused too. Can’t wait to get home and start it again! I couldn’t figure out where the little lines came from. so fun!
Me too. Have done a few rows and think I have made the same mistake.was not able to figure out where I went wrong but I think I have understood now. Thanks a million for the clarification
How this hat knit up in a worsted weight yarn or a 4 medium weight
Hi Ann,
Thanks for the question! The yarn that we used here has a gauge of 6 to 7 stitches per inch which would classify it as a Sport Weight yarn or a 2.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I think I’m doing the math right, if I use the stitch count for the baby size hat with Aran wool at 4-5 spi, the hat should knit up fairly close to the Adult small/medium size. Am I thinking about this correctly?
Hello Jerry,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes- you are correct. If you are getting 4.5 stitches per Inch and cast on 80 stitches you should end up with a hat with a circumference of approximately 18in. Let us know if you have any further questions and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m wondering the same thing, would I be able to use a 4 weight yarn and the baby size hat and end up with an adult size hat?
Hello Gwen,
Thank you for reaching out! This will all depend on your gauge- If you would like to knit this hat with a Worsted Weight or 4 weight the first thing you will need to do is figure out your gauge. Once you know how many stitches per inch you are getting you will be able to figure out what your cast on number needs to be. I would guess that knitting the kids size in worsted weight would get you close to the adult small size. I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I do not understand the direction “omit last slip marker” on the last repeat. Can you please explain how this is done. Thank you.
Hello RGL,
Thank you for your question! All this means is that on your fourth repeat the row [P4, place marker (pm), k16 (20, 22, 26), pm] you will not place your second marker so your fourth row will be Purl 4, Place Marker, Knit 16 (20, 22, 26).
I hope this clears things up and let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I don’t understand this either? I have 7 markers, the first being after K 26 and the last marker before the final 4 Purl stitches (RS) and opposite for WS row. Is this correct?
What does Row 4 mean?
Hi,
Thanks for writing in! This direction means that you will repeat [P4, place marker (pm), k16 (20, 22, 26), pm] and on the last repeat, you will not place a marker. The row written out in full would then read: P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26), pm, P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26), pm, P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26), pm, P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26).
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
I was battling with this but now I get it! What cast on works best for a hat? I usually use the long-tail cast on.
Hello Alexandra,
Thank you for reaching out! I would recommend the long tail cast on for this project.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there
What a brilliant, simple and lovely pattern for at beatiful hat.
I took the liberty of translating the pattern into danish to help my daughter get a good start with this pattern. If you would like to have the translation – please let me know.
Best wishes
Anne
What is meant by the instruction, omitting the last slipped marker on the last repeat.
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! This direction means that you will repeat [P4, place marker (pm), k16 (20, 22, 26), pm] and on the last repeat, you will not place a marker. The row written out in full would then read: P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26), pm, P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26), pm, P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26), pm, P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26).
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
So does this mean row 2 is P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26), pm, P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26), pm, P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26), pm, P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26)? If not could u possibly write out row two for me so I can clarify what I did wrong? Thanks so much!
Hi Manon,
Thanks for reaching out the! I am happy to help! The row that you have transposed here is the set-up row! Row 2 written out would be:
Purl to marker, sm, knit to marker, sm, purl to marker, sm, knit to marker, sm, purl to marker, sm, knit to marker, sm, purl to marker, sm, knit to end of row.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
After knitting my 1st four spokes hat on strait needles and not liking the way i sewed it together – after 2 attempts… i decided to try knitting the hat again but this time in the round. The most important thing i found out – I needed to add 1 extra stitch at the end of the round. After knitting 1st row – ending with knit section – and beginning 2nd round with a knit – i realized that the last “spoke” did not have the defined transition so i added an additional stitch. At the transition point between rounds – one knit/purl last 20 – purl/knit (extra stitch) – next 4 knit/purl to begin next round. Transitioning from one round to next, you end round with same stitch as you begin the next round thus you need to add an extra stitch to create a definition between sections. Hope this makes sense.
This is the same idea I came up with – the extra stitch is the solution 😉
The trick is – you need an odd number of “segments” per row to get the segmented look of the garter stitch.
And in my opinion this looks much cleaner than the version with a seam.
Hello! Excited to finally knit this hat up. Regarding the finished size circumferences, could you let me know the “stretching to” size circumferences for the adult sizes. I’m unsure how much give to expect, and it will influence which size I decide to knit up. Many thanks!
Hello Paula,
Thank you for reaching out! I measured our samples in the shop and I would say that this hat will stretch approximately a comfortable 2.5″-3″.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I think the confusion with “omitting the last marker on the last repeat” is because the instruction is not only on the set up row, but on Row 1 and Row 2 as well. So when we are told to repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures ____, you tend to think you are to omit the last slip marker on every row.
I had to look at it several times too, but am going forward assuming you omit the last marker only on the set up row. Otherwise you wouldn’t have any markers left in no time!.
Please correct me if I’m wrong, and thank you for a wonderful pattern!.
Hello Linda,
Thank you for reaching out! You will in fact omit the last slip marker on every row, this is just because there is no marker to slip, because you will be at the end of the row. I hope this clears things up for you, and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
What is meant by “ssk”? Is it slip 1, slip 1, knit?
Hello Hazel,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct “ssk” does mean slip slip knit- for a more in-depth explanation check out our tutorial video.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I started this and didn’t realize that i needed to do this garder stitch. I was reading the patter part set up row p4 pm k16 pm 4x
Row1: right side k to next marker sm p tp next marker 4x
Row2: wrong side p to next marker k to sm 4 x
Well I got stockinette stitch.
So now i need to do the decrease could i purl wise to do the decrease. Should I flogg it start over.
Thanks
Christine
Hello Christine,
Thank you for reaching out! If you are happy with how the hat is looking I would continue, you designed your own version! You can purl the decreases to keep within the stockinette pattern.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
Cool i am so happy. Thanks will let you know. I am doing this has a gift for my step daughter family so hubby hat going to be different. Yippy
Hi. I love the look of this hat. Purl soho always has such beautiful and classy looks…I drool and I hope to create more of your patterns in the future. As a novice knitter I’m having an issue with the pattern… Clearly I am reading it wrong:( I knitted all the knits and purled the 4 stitches in between but the pattern looks different from your pictures. Yours looks like all garter and two stitches to make the column/spoke. What did I do wrong? I wish I could send you a photo but hope you can understand what I did. Thanks!
Hello Manon,
Thank you for reaching out! This hat is not garter stitch, but the right side of the hat is the purl side, not the knit side so maybe you are looking at the wrong side when you are comparing to our hat? If you would like to send us a picture feel free to send us one at Store@purlsoho.com.
I hope we can help!
-Marilla
Hello,
Can you clarify the stitch for me? I’m knitting the knits and purling the purls and getting stockinette stitch. The purl side looks like your pictures.
If I’m supposed to be doing garter stitch, I should be knitting the purls and purling the knits, correct?
Is it meant to be garter stitch, or stockinette with the purl side out?
Thanks!
Hi GJ,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d be happy to help clarify the stitch pattern for you! Throughout this pattern, you will be knitting in garter stitch (meaning that you should be knitting the purls and purling the knits), with a brief 4-stitch switch in stitch between the markers. By alternating the garter stitch in the 4 stitches between the markers, you’ll see a very subtle shift in the line of the garter stitch! I hope this helps clarify things, but feel free to reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com and we’d be glad to assist you further!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Good Day
I am trying to knit the four spokes hat and finding it difficult to understand the pattern, do you have a tutorial on how to form the spokes. I love the hat.
Hello Rosanna,
Thank you for reaching out! Is there a particular part of the pattern that is tripping you up? Are your stitch markers placed correctly? I hope I can help!
Warmly,
Marilla
If I wanted to do the 4 Spokes Hat for my son who has a man’s XL head, how do I translate that in the pattern?
Hi Paige,
Thanks for reaching out! First I would recommend measuring your son’s head – this hat will stretch to fit up to a 23-24″ head comfortably. If you do need to make a bigger size, you can cast on 136 stitches, and on the set up row, knit 30 stitches instead of 26 between the markers. You should then be able to follow the rest of the pattern as written!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
When shaping the crown, I will repeat rows 1&2 a total of ten times leaving a total of 24 stitches, correct? Then the following row decrease begins K3tog. Based on my calculations, that will include the remaining two knit stitches and one purl stitch, correct? In other words, I will be decreasing some purl stitches with some knit stitches. I just want to make sure I’m reading this right. I love the hat. Thanks much.
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! For the size Adult Small/Medium, you will repeat rows 1 and 2 of the decrease section a total of 10 times to get down to 24 stitches. At this point, the decreases will include knitting some purls in the k3tog, k2tog and ssk. This last little section maintains some of the spoke look while getting you down to enough stitches to finish up the top!
Happy knitting,
Cassy
Thanks so much, Cassy. That clarifies things.
Great pattern! I am wondering though, about the finishing seam. I did the seaming recommended, but the invisible seaming eliminates one of the sides of the “spokes”. Is there another way to sew up the seam to keep the look of the spokes?
Hi Lesley,
Thanks for reaching out! When seaming garter stitch, you should be working in the stitches on the very edge of each piece. It is possible that if you worked your seam one or even a half stitch away from the edge that it would obscure the stitch pattern on the edge. Another cause could be if you pulled your yarn too tightly while seaming. If all else fails, please send us a picture at customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can take a look at your seam!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, I know you answered this in the last comment but I’m still not quite understanding. I’m beginning to shape the crown. Does “omitting the last slip marker” mean remove it from the needle? Meaning if I have 7 slip markers total I will now have 6. Am I correct with that? This is my first hat pattern and I’m loving it! Thank you in advance!
Hello KKP,
Thank you for reaching out, and congrats on being almost done with your first pattern! When the pattern states “[P4, place marker (pm), k16 (20, 22, 26), pm] 4 times, omitting the last marker on the last repeat. [7 markers placed]” You are omitting the instruction to pm (place marker) on the last repeat. The same is true for row 1, you are not removing any stitch markers, but rather omitting the instruction to slip marker.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Not sure what I’ve done wrong, but by knitting it back and forth , it has created a weird stockinette rib in the 4-stitch areas, but by knitting it in the round…it works. Causes me great confusion.
Hi Shelley,
Thanks for reaching out! This is actually to be expected – since knitting flat and knitting in the round are different, patterns that are written for knitting in the round will not turn out the same if you knit them flat without any modifications. Unfortunately we do not have instructions for knitting this hat in the round, so I would recommend knitting it flat.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi there! 2 questions:
What is the stitch multiple? Is 8?
Also would the 136 cast on work for fingering yarn for an Extra Large Adult size…following the advice given for Paige September 2018?
Hello KD,
Thank you for reaching out! If you wanted to modify this pattern to be knit with a fingering weight rather than a sport weight 136 stitches will not work. This is because you would be changing your gauge which would in turn change all of the measurements within the pattern. If you did want to work this hat up with a fingering weight yarn, you would first need to knit a gauge swatch to find out how many stitches per inch you are getting and go from there. Because you are decreases at 8 stitch increments I would reccomend casting on a multiple of 8.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi, I need help with this pattern… I can’t figure out what’s wrong with me when I read it! I do the set up row as instructed and the following rows, and it doesn’t turn out how it looks in the pics. No spokes. There are people above who have the same problem as me but I still can’t figure it out after reading your explanations. For eg, starting off each row with purl stitch, then next row knit stitch, then next row purl etc, how would that be knitting the knits and purling the purls?
Also, in the pattern it says this beanie is to be knitted flat, however above in the comments you have said this is meant to be knit in the round. I’m really confused :/
Hello Anja,
Thank you for reaching out! This hat is knit flat, though some readers have converted this hat to the round. Is the the issue that you are having that the spokes are not appearing? It takes a few rows for the spokes to really appear. The spokes are basically being created by your four stitches between your markers.
Let us know if you continue to have issues or if we can clarify anything for you!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I was thinking of knitting this in Cashmere tend, wondering if the gauge would be right and if one skien would be enough. Thanks
Hello Meb,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately this hat has a gauge that is to small for our Tend yarn. Our Simple Hat and Hand Warmer pattern would work nicely though.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m a very new knitter and I have a couple of questions about the pattern. First, is there a preferred cast on method? Second, is the pattern repeat (p4 pm, k16 pm) for the set up row? Embarrassing, what do you do to the stitch where you place the marker?
Thank you for your help
Hi Gwen,
Thanks for reaching out! We are happy to help!
For this pattern and most of our patterns, we like the long tail cast on (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/long-tail-cast-on/). We think that it makes a tidy and stretchy cast on.
For the set-up row, you will [P4, pm, k16 (20, 22, 26), pm] 4 times, omitting the last marker on the last repeat. With that in mind, if you are making the smallest size, you will P4, pm, k16, pm, P4, pm, k16, pm, P4, pm, k16, pm, P4, pm, k16! If you are knitting the next size up the k16 will become a k20 and so on. The stitch markers are placed between stitches.
When you come to them when you are working the subsequent rows, when you encounter the stitch marker, you will slip it from the left hand needle to the right hand needle.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi there,
I love the simple t-shirts your models wear. What brand are they and where can I get them?
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out! This particular shirt came from Vince.! You can also see it on our model for the Elementary Wrap in Mineral Silk + Tussock!
Best,
Julianna
Would this work with Line Weight yarn? 3 needle?
Hi Julia,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, Line Weight is rather lighter weight than Season Alpaca, so I don’t think you would be able to get the correct gauge using it held single. You may, however, be able to get the correct gauge using it held double! I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch to find out!
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
I’m used to knitting ribbed hats- which have a lot of stretch.
Can you tell me approximately the amount this hat stretches- to help me determine what size to make?
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for reaching out! Garter stitch may not be as stretchy as ribbing, but it still has quite a bit of inherent stretch from side to side. I would suggest choosing a size about two inches smaller than the recipient’s actual head measurement.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
If I use a thicker yarn–like Jerry’s question 01.30.2018– and cast on 80 stitches , am I to use the same size needle or larger needles?
Thank you for your help!
Verna
Hi Verna,
Thanks for reaching out! You would need to use a larger needle if you are substituting a heavier weight yarn. We don’t have exact instructions for modifying this hat to work with thicker yarn, but I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch using the needle size recommended on your yarn label, and then multiplying your stitches per inch by the finished measurements for the size you wish to make as a starting point for adapting the pattern!
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
Just finished the 4Spoke hat for my uncle who lost his hair during medical treatments. Cozy and stylish were my goals.
A classy guy deserves a terrific hat. His was completed in a vintage Koigu, got a short rolled edge, &was cropped at 6” to fit, without the poof.
He was thrilled.
Great designs. ALWAYS read the comments… so useful.
Hello,
Super new knitter after looking through the comments and still not seeing my answer can you walk me through the markers? I have a set up row with 7 markers then I moved on to row 1 where I now have 6 markers and have removed the 7th marker is that correct? Then I’ll move on to row 2 where I will remove the last (6th) marker? Then repeat row 1 and 2.. do I keep removing the markers? Thank you in advance for any help!
Hi Diana,
Thanks for reaching out! You should have 8 markers in your work at all times when knitting this hat. At the end of the set-up row, the directions have you omit placing the last marker because you should already have a marker there for the end of round, which you will keep where it is. Similarly, when working rows 1 and 2, you will still keep all 8 markers in place.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Can you make this pattern using a cotton yarn or cotton silk yarn? I would like to make one for summer use.
Please advise,
Martha
Hi Martha,
Thank you for writing in! I think this would be wonderful in a cotton or cotton blend of your choosing! As long as you are getting the correct gauge for the project, the options are nearly endless! One thing to keep in mind is that cotton will stretch though not quite as readily as alpaca, so I recommend double-checking your measurements before casting on this project.
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Hello! So, I’m really struggling with the seaming. I’ve reworked it a few times, but keep losing that spoke ridge in the process. I’ve made sure that I’m picking up on the very edges. I’m wondering if it could be because of the jog in the pattern? Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!
Hi Lily,
Thanks for reaching out! If you’re working at the very edge, but still losing that spoke ridge, it’s possible that you’ve pulled your yarn too tightly while seaming. Even a half stitch away from the edge would also lead to losing the definition of the spoke. If you’re still having difficulties, send us a picture to customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can take a look at your seam!
Best,
Cassandra
Can I use cotton pure for this project? If yes, am I okay using #3 needles or should I up to #4?
Thank you in advance!
Alaina
Hi Alaina,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, Cotton Pure is the correct weight for this hat! I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch and choosing whatever needle size allows you to match our gauge of 23 stitches and 47 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch. Since cotton tends to stretch out with wear, you may want to consider knitting the hat one size smaller than you normally would.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Following the pattern above, the pictures do not match. How can you have those fine grooves when the pattern asks to pearl 4 then knit 16. The ‘grooves’ will be larger. Have I got the wrong pattern / pictures?.
Confused knitter
Hi Brigitte,
Thanks for reaching out! The pattern and the photos are correct! The grooves are made working garter stitch that jogs a row at regular intervals, not by the purl stitches!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Do you have an equivalent yarn to the Season Alpaca, and if so,
how much would be needed?
Hi Josette,
Thanks for reaching out! Season Alpaca is a sport weight yarn so for this pattern you could use any sport weight yarn! I would recommend Mulberry Merino or Good Wool and you will need 1 skein of Good Wool or 1 skein of Mulberry Merino will be plenty for any of the sizes! I do recommend working a gauge swatch with whichever yarn you decide on to insure that your gauge is consistent with the pattern!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi, just joined this wonderful site of yours and I am glad I did. So inspired by all of the lovely projects that I am ready to start knitting for the first time, in almost 68 yrs of my life , though not without your generous help. Thanks in advance.
I have a question , as I am planning to purchase some wool with patterns from “ purl soho.com” but I see most of the wool used for the projects here require hand washing , can you suggest me some variety of wool you have , which are machine washable but soft and good quality at the same time as I will be knitting for my grand children. Sorry for my very basic question . Hope to hear from you. Thank you very much.
Hi Ranjana,
Thanks for reaching out and welcome to Purl Soho! Do you have a specific pattern in mind you would like to make? That way I can recommend an appropriate yarn! In the meantime, our machine washable Purl Soho yarns that would be great for children (all are very soft and amazing quality) include Campo, Morning, Lovebird, Cotton Pure, and Posy! We also carry a few non Purl Soho brands that are machine washable including MANOS DEL URUGUAY Franca and Serpentina, MADELINETOSH Tosh Merino and Tosh Merino Light, Blue Sky Worsted Cotton, as well as ANZULA For Better or Worsted, Cricket and Cloud!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi!
Do you think it would be at all possible to use a C-aran/worsted weight yarn for this pattern? Perhaps making a few adjustments?
Thank you so much!
Greca
Hi Greca,
Thanks for writing in. I think it’s absolutely possible to knit this hat with an aran/worsted yarn! However, you would need to change the number of stitches you cast on, so that the hat comes out the right size. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if you need help with this step, please visit our tutorial, All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 4. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I love this hat! My son’s head circumference is 22.5 inches. Will the adult Medium/Large stretch for this size? I am using sport weight yarn and the gauge is right on.
Liz
Hi Liz,
Thanks for reaching out. This hat will definitely stretch, and we generally recommend selecting a size with a few inches of negative ease so that the hat will fit nice and snug! For your son, I’d recommend the Adult Large size. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
will this hat stretch for a large head 22.5 inches?
Lovely pattern.
liz
Hi Liz,
It looks like I just answered your question in another reply earlier today! Here’s what I wrote, for reference:
Thanks for reaching out. This hat will definitely stretch, and we generally recommend selecting a size with a few inches of negative ease so that the hat will fit nice and snug! For your son, I’d recommend the Adult Large size. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili