Converging Lines Cowl
Gathered up around your neck or draped around your shoulders, the Converging Lines Cowl adds not only form and function to your wardrobe, but a bit of panache, too!
It may look complex, but this piece is a case of the sum being greater than its parts. The “converging lines” are nothing more than a once-a-round strategically placed knitting 2 together. Knitting flat for the split at the bottom, you then join into the round and gradually decrease your way to the top. Simple!
We credit our beautiful Season Alpaca for the lovely drape of this extra-warm and cozy cowl. It’s heavy enough to ward off drafts, yet light enough to layer under (or over!) your coat.
A clever way to keep warm without adding bulky layers, our Converging Lines Cowl is certainly practical… But super pretty, too!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho founder and co-owner, Joelle Hoverson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoConvergingLinesCowl, and #PurlSohoSeasonAlpaca. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 skeins of Purl Soho’s Season Alpaca, 100% baby alpaca yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is 218 yards; approximately 625 yards required. We made one cowl in Heirloom White and one in Dove Gray.
- US 5 (3.75mm), 24-inch circular needles
- US 5, 16-inch circular needles
Gauge
Unblocked: 40 stitches x 28 rows/ rounds = 4 inches in 2 x 2 rib, unstretched
Blocked: 37 stitches x 30 rows/ rounds = 4 inches in 2 x 2 rib, unstretched
Size
Finished width at bottom, from one side of split to other, unstretched
- Unblocked: 28 inches
- Blocked: 30 inches
Finished circumference at top, unstretched
- Unblocked: 18 inches
- Blocked: 20 inches
Finished height from bottom to top, unstretched
- Unblocked: 17 ½ inches
- Blocked: 16 ½ inches
Pattern
With longer needles and using a Long Tail Cast On, cast on 280 stitches.
Working back and forth in rows, turning the work between each row…
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, slip 1 purlwise wyif.
Row 2 (right side): K3, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, k3.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 4 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 1.
Next Row (right side): K3, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, k1, k2tog. [279 stitches]
Now working in the round…
Next Round: With right side facing you, join into the round with a k2tog, place marker, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, k1, k2tog. [277 stitches]
Decrease Round: Work in established pattern, knitting the knits and purling the purls as they appear, to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat the Decrease Round every round until 177 stitches remain, switching to the 16-inch needles when necessary.
Bind off in stitch pattern.
Weave in ends and block if desired!
LEARN ABOUT SEASON ALPACA + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Season Alpaca always brings deep beauty to your hand-knits. Made of 100% super baby alpaca, the most special grade of Peruvian alpaca there is, this sport-weight yarn is incredibly soft, and with its long fibers and many fine plies, it also creates smooth stockinette and lovely stitch definition. Prepare to knit with your new favorite alpaca yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Season Alpaca knitting patterns and cast on!
More Sport-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of sport-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop alpaca yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Wonderful idea, lovely pattern, great yarn.
So elegant. Thanks for sharing.
Need more directions to join. It makes no sense, especially having 277 stitches on a 4 inch piece. HELP !
Hi Sally,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help! Once you have completed the row right before the join row, you will not turn your work but rather join it in the round by knitting together the first two stitches of the end that you are joining (the first 2 stitches of the row that you just worked). You will then place a marker that will now mark your new beginning/end of round.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
bellissimo
I have the perfect person in mind for this. A gift they will you use and appreciate.
A beautiful pattern. Do we need all the yarn? I have only 450 yards, would it be enough?
Thanks!
Hi Christine,
Thanks for writing in! We used roughly 625 yards for this lovely cowl!
I hope that this help!
Cassy
J’aime beaucoup, ce col est parfait .
J’aime aussi sa sobriété qui fait toute l’élégance.
Reste à traduire en français pour moi 😉
Merci pour ce modèle.
Hi Majupodi,
Merci beaucoup pour votre mots gentils!
Salut!
Cassy
Please send the pattern for Converging Lines Cowl to my email address.
Thank you
Signe
Hi Signe,
Thanks for writing in! The above pattern can certainly be downloaded as a PDF! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This is just fantastic!
I would like to make it longer. Would I just start with more stitches cast on and then work the pattern as instructed?
Thank you so much!
Maria
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! You can certainly cast on more stitches. Just be sure to add a multiple of 4 stitches to maintain the stitch pattern as written! I am not sure the best way to lengthen this piece. You may want to knit longer before you join in the round or with more stitches you may be able to join at the same time 4 inches that we did here. This make take some trial and error to figure out what works best for you!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you for this truly elegant cowl with the split at the bottom. I find this shape very interesting and your directions clear.
Julie
This looks like it will only fit a tiny person. How big a person do you think can wear this? If it’s 30″ unstretched, how big is it when stretched?
Hi Debra,
Great question! This lovely cowl fits a wide range of folks! With the stretchy 2 x 2 ribbing, one size should fit many! Generally 2 x 2 ribbing will stretch between 30 and 50% taking the 30″ bottom to a maximum stretch of 45″. That said, you can certainly cast on more stitches (be sure that they are a multiple of 4) to make a longer cowl that will have a wider bottom. This may take some trial and error to change the pattern to work best for you but it could certainly be done!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
C’est magnifique bravo belle réalisation ??
Is the needle size 5mm? Thank you – can’t wait to get started on this beautiful pattern.
Hi Katherine,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! For this lovely pattern, we used US 5 needles which would be 3.75 mm.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
What a lovely pattern. I might make a 1/2 length version. So, given this, I was thinking of casting on 1/2 the number of stitches, joining immediately in the round, working one row in the pattern stitch (K2P2), and then on round 2, starting with the decrease round and continuing until my desired length. Would this create a similar look – but obviously without the slit at the bottom.
Thanks.
Hi Elizabeth,
Great question! I think that this should work. Just be sure that you cast on a multiple of 4 stitches so that your version works with the stitch pattern here and you should be good to go!
Best,
Cassy
Absolutely elegant! Thank you.
I love this pattern. So elegant!
If I needed to make it longer, should I just cast on more stitches and then continue in pattern?
Thank you,
Maria
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! You can certainly cast on more stitches. Just be sure to add a multiple of 4 stitches to maintain the stitch pattern as written! You may want to knit longer before you join in the round or with more stitches you may be able to join at the same time 4 inches that we did here. This make take some trial and error to figure out what works best for you!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you very much for sharing. The directions are very clear and the shape very interesting. I really aprecciate your generosity. I love your site. Could you tell me any guidance for making in medium and large size?
Hi Judith,
Thanks for writing in! Due to the ribbed texture of this lovely cowl, one size should fit most. It will stretch quite a bit! You can certainly cast on more stitches if you would like. Just be sure to add a multiple of 4 stitches to maintain the stitch pattern as written. Or you may want to knit longer before you join in the round or with more stitches you may be able to join at the same time 4 inches that we did here. This make take some trial and error to figure out what works best for you!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you very much Cassy.-
Wonderful pattern! One size fits all??? I am long waisted and broad shouldered….any suggestions for enlarging? A bulkier yarn you could recommend. Thank you. Rosa
Hi!
Thanks for writing in! Due to the ribbed texture of this lovely cowl, one size should fit most. It will stretch quite a bit! You can certainly cast on more stitches if you would like. Just be sure to add a multiple of 4 stitches to maintain the stitch pattern as written. Or you may want to knit longer before you join in the round or with more stitches you may be able to join at the same time 4 inches that we did here. This make take some trial and error to figure out what works best for you! At present, this pattern is only available in the gauge listed above. You can certainly try it in a larger yarn but it will require a fair amount of reworking of the pattern. If you are up to it, I’d say go for it!
Best,
Cassy
Lovely pattern! For the slipped stitch edging, it seems confusing for me to slip both of them purlwise with the yarn in back. The first one, paired with the knit on the other side, makes a nice chained edge. The second one (also slipped pw wyib) makes a strange bump when you turn it to do the k3. Would it be better to sl1 pw wyif instead? That way, when you make the turn to do the k3 on the RS, your yarn is already in the back. If it was supposed to be that way, I’m fine with it, just not used to the look. Thank you for a lovely pattern!
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for writing in! For this lovely cowl, we liked the look of slipping both stitches purlwise with the yarn in back. However, the great thing about knitting is that you can always bring your own flair and preferences to the plate! You can certainly alter the pattern to your liking, making a unique and beautiful finished item!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi Catherine,
I just wanted to check in to let you know that we did find an error in the pattern. We have corrected it above but I also wanted to communicate it here as well! You will slip the Purl stitches with the yarn in front on the selvage edge.
Our apologies for any confusion!
Cassy
Could I do this in the Lancardate Camel? I’ve been wanting to play with that yarn awhile! How would that look?
Thank you!
Hi Gayle,
Thanks for writing in! The Lanacardate Camel is a bit thicker than the Season Alpaca that we used for this cowl. If you do use the Camel, your cowl will be a bit bigger around than the one that we made here. You will also need to use larger needles, perhaps a US 6. You could try using the needle size that we used for the cowl and seeing if you like the fabric at the suggested gauge and if so, you can proceed. If you prefer the fabric on the US 6, your cowl will probably be about 30% wider. You could also try re-gauging the project but it will take a bit of trial and error.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi love this pattern, simple beautiful !
I want to send it to my niece that is living in France
Can you show a picture to understand were to decrease from left to right or right to left please
Thanks alicia
Hi Alicia,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! The decreases for this lovely cowl will be at the beginning and the end of each row once you begin the decrease section. In the last picture before the Materials section, you can see a detail of the decreas as you move up the cowl!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks for the lovely design. I’m working it right now & just wanted to let you know there’s a tiny typo … the line after it says ‘Working in the Round…’ states ‘Next round: With right side facing you, join in the round….repeat from * to last 4 stitches…’ – I think it’s supposed to say to last FIVE stitches (four doesn’t keep the ribbing pattern correct and you need 5 stitches to work the p2, k1, k2tog at the end of the row. : )
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly did catch a typo! We are so sorry for the mix up and have corrected it! The joining round now reads:
Next Round: With right side facing you, join into the round with a k2tog, place marker, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, k1, k2tog. [277 stitches]
Thank you again!
Cassy
Lovely simple pattern – thanks for always giving us such stylish knitwear to make – quick question about the alpaca – how do you account for the stretch ? what has happened to your sample in store over time? thank you
Hi Deion,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! This lovely sample is still quite young, just a few weeks old and thus has not seen a ton of use in the shop yet. To this point, it is holding up beautifully! Even with the stretch of the ribbing, it seems to bounce back and fit just as it ever has!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
The round where you join into the round with a k2tog states to work to last 4 stitches, p2, k1, k2tog. That’s 5 stitches, not 4. Please confirm.
Zulma
Hi Zulma,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly did catch a typo! We are so sorry for the mix up and have corrected it! The joining round now reads:
Next Round: With right side facing you, join into the round with a k2tog, place marker, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, k1, k2tog. [277 stitches]
Thank you again!
Cassy
qualcuno riesce tradurre queste spiegazioni in italiano? Pur avendo il traduttore tra misure e sigle diverse non riesco proprio capire.
Hi Elisabetta,
Thanks for reaching out! At present our patterns are only available in English! We appreciate your request and will keep it in mind!
Best,
Cassy
Hello: thanks for this beautiful pattern. First, I did not increase number of stitches but did knit the unconnected rounds about an inch more, to 5”: is that acceptable?
Secondly, I am confused by the K2tog requirement at end of each round, once connected. I have 2 purl stitches available at the end of my current round (and not 2 knits) — right before the next round, where the one ‘layer’ appears to tuck under and meet the topmost ‘layer’. Do I KNIT these purls together?? Great thanks. Paula
Hi Paula,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly knit longer before joining in the round! It sounds like perhaps you joined with the wrong side facing you as opposed to the right side. Before joining in the round, you will complete a right side row which will begin with k3 and end with k1, k2tog. Then on the join row, you will begin with right side facing you. This will mean that the last 2 stitches that you come to will be 2 knits from the k1, k2tog at the end of the last right side row. As you move on in the pattern decreasing, your last few stitches may not be knits but you will always k2tog at the end of the decrease row to maintain the pattern!
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
So, do you change to the smaller length circular when you start in the round?
Hi Bridget,
Thanks for writing in! You will want to switch to the 16-inch needles when necessary. This will probably not be until you have worked a fair portion of the decreases. When you feel like the 24 inch needles are a bit to small, you will then want to switch to the 16 inch needles.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks, yes, that makes sense!
Question: BTW, this pattern is simply beautiful. I’d like to make it but wondering if your Pure Cotton would give the same beautiful stitch definition and fit? I notice Pure Cotton and Season Alpaca is used in your Classic Cardigan, both size 5 needle. I would not have an issue if Pure Cotton would give a slightly larger fit. Your recommendation is most appreciated. Susie
Hello Susie,
Thank you for reaching out! This pattern should work beautifully with our Cotton Pure.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
hello!
super excited to make this — i *think* it would be a relatively good pattern for a beginner to try knitting in the round, no? I have a really nice sock weight yarn that gets 5.5-6 stitches/inch… so not much smaller than the alpaca… If i play around with needle size or hold two strings of yarn, do you think it’s possible to get the needed gauge? If not, can one alter the ratio of the pattern to match the ratio of the gauge? I.e., if the sock weight yarn fits only 3/4 the gauge of the alpaca yarn, (and thus 25% smaller), could I just adapt the pattern to be a quarter larger (for example cast on 125 stitches instead of 100)?? is that a way to accurately substitute yarns?? (is what I’m saying even making sense?! lol)
Hi Kaitlin,
Thanks for writing in, I agree this would be a good beginner pattern! As always when substituting yarns, it is a good idea to do a gauge swatch. Doubling your fingering weight yarn will probably give you the closest to the correct gauge, but keep in mind that you will then need twice the yardage for the project.
It is also possible to adapt the pattern to fit your gauge if you prefer to use the yarn on a smaller needle without doubling it, but unfortunately we are not able to fully alter a pattern that requires gauge for fit. If you would like to take a stab at it yourself, in general, to figure out your cast on number, you will want to knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of four for this pattern.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, it is a beautiful cowl. May i know if there is a difference to the instructions if i use magic loop knitting? And also how do u slip one purlwise wyif for the first row? Mine kept unraveling..
Hi Tulo,
Thanks for writing in! You can easily substitute Magic Loop for the 16″ circular without any modifications – I would just start with a 32″ circular and work normally in the round at first, and when you notice the stitches start getting a bit tight around the needle, switch right over to Magic Loop.
It is a bit harder to diagnose what might be going wrong with the slipped stitches without seeing you knit, but you should be inserting your right hand needle into the indicated stitch as if to purl, then moving the stitch over to the right hand needle without doing anything else. The stitch should never be completely off the needles, which should prevent any dropped or unraveled stitches.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Would “Understory” work with this pattern?
Hello Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! Understory is sadly to thick to work with this pattern, unless you made some adjustments. If you are looking for an alternative to our Season Alpaca to make this cowl I would check out our Mulberry Merino.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
HI, How do I establish how many stitches I need for the circumference of my body? Your sample is 28 inches unblocked. I’m larger and my circumference is 45 inches, so will your example in the k2, p2 rib stretch enough? I get nine stitches to the inch in my swatch. Thank you. Alyson Limburg
Hi Alyson,
Great question! This lovely cowl fits a wide range of folks! With the stretchy 2 x 2 ribbing, one size should fit many! Generally 2 x 2 ribbing will stretch between 30 and 50% taking the 30″ bottom to a maximum stretch of 45″. You can certainly cast on more stitches (be sure that they are a multiple of 4) to make a longer cowl that will have a wider bottom. It is hard to say exactly how wide to make the bottom of the cowl due to the extreme stretch factor so this may take some trial and error to change the pattern to work best for you but it could certainly be done!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
It is a beautiful pattern and I am very exctited to make it. I cast the stitches and am now wondering why do I have to slip the very first stitch of the first row, which is usually knitted and then knit the first stitch of every row, which is usally slipped? I believe this will work, but as I am eager to learn, I would like to know why this is.
Thank you!
Hi Liisi,
Great question! For the part of the cowl that is worked back and forth in rows, on the wrong side rows, you will slip the first and last stitches, and then knit these stitches on the right side rows. This creates a tidy edge with a chained appearance. Once you complete the split hem and begin working in the round, you will no longer have to slip any stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Is there any difference in working it this way to the usual always knit the last stitch of the row and slip the first stitch of the row?
Hi Liisi,
It doesn’t make a huge difference, but working the edging this way will ensure that both slipped stitches wrap to the wrong side of the cowl. When you always slip the first stitch and knit the last stitch, one edge tends to lean or curl slightly to the wrong side and the other edge curls to the right side. The effect is subtle either way, so if you would prefer to work the slip stitch edging in your usual fashion, you certainly can!
Best,
Julianna
Just to clarify, I would need to do a decrease round every time I do a right side round until 177 stitches reached. Is this correct?
Hello Selina,
Thank you for reaching out! You are exactly right, and because you are knitting in the round every row is a right side row. This means that at this point in the pattern you are decreasing every row.
I hope this clarifies things and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks Marilla. It is working out beautifully! So simple yet so elegant. Much as I like knitting, it is the finishing touches like sewing seams that I dread. This pattern is awesome, no need to sew any stitches. Just cast on, knit and cast off! Awesome.
Hello. . I LOVE this project. I’m having trouble fitting 280 stitches on my needle to get started. Does this really work? Any suggestions/guidance would be most appreciated. THX!
Hello Deb,
Thank you for reaching out! Your 24″ circular needle will be able to fit all 280 stitches on it, especially when you connect to knit in the round. When casting on you could put a stitch stopper at the other end as you cast on so you don’t loose ant stitches as you cast on.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
This is my favorite cowl ever! I wear it all the time. I made it longer, using 4 skeins instead of 3, simply continuing the pattern until I ran out of yarn at the decrease place. Everyone loves it and wants one, too!
Is it absolutely necessary to use the long tail cast on? I have been knitting for many years, but have never mastered this.
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly substitute a Cable Cast On if you wish, but I would not recommend using a knit-on or backwards loop cast on if those are your usual methods, since they result in a loose, loopy edge that would be exaggerated by the ribbing.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I just finished this and absolutely love it. What is the best way to block it? Wet blocking? Steam?
Hello Maureen,
Thank you for reaching out! You can certainly wet block or steam block this lovely cowl. I would likely steam block it as it doesn’t need to much re-adjusting- and you can wear it sooner. 🙂
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I love this cowl. I was wondering if you know many stitches I would need to cast on using a worsted weight yarn. Also, at what point I would stop the decrease before switching to a 16″ circular needle. Thank you so much.
Betty
Hi Betty,
Thanks for reaching out! At present this pattern is only available in a sport weight version, and unfortunately we are not able to fully alter a pattern that requires gauge for fit. If you would like to take a stab at it yourself, in general, to figure out your cast on number, you will want to knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of four for this pattern. The decreases continue right until the very end of the cowl, so you will just switch to the 16″ needle once it feels like the stitches are getting too stretched around the 32″ needle.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
Thank you for your reply. That is what I did and we shall see. I am using a smaller needle. Looking good so far;)
Betty
Hi, I am in the middle of making this and it’s lovely but I am concerned that it started out a little wider than recommended (34 inches circumference even though my gage seemed correct) and that now it’s not narrowing enough. Any thoughts on doubling up on the K2together? Thank you!
Hi Meredith,
Thanks for reaching out! It does sound like your gauge might be a little off, but fortunately I do think you can make things work. Depending on how fast you would like the cowl to decrease, I would suggest substituting a k3tog for the k2tog on every row or every other row. You can always try the cowl on as you go to see how much narrower you would like it to be, and the stretchy ribbing will make the final fit very forgiving!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, is it possible to use a tubular cast on for this and if so, how would you deal with the first and last stitches (slip stitches) when casting on…
Thank you so much!
Hello Pastille,
This is a great question! Unfortunately this pattern will not work with a tubular cast. To cast on a 2×2 ribbed tubular cast on you must have an equal amount of knit and purl stitches, which sadly this pattern doesn’t have. In addition you are correct in your assumption the the selvedge stitches would also be a challenge to incorporate.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello,
Voici ce que propose mon traducteur
Je ne comprends pas la construction…
La photo du tricot repliée n’est pas très aidante non plus..,
Est-ce que quelqu’un peut m’aider?
Il a l’air assez facile une fois qu’on a compris 🙏🌸🌸🌸
MODÈLE
Avec des aiguilles plus longues et en utilisant un montage à longue queue, montez 280 points.
En faisant des allers-retours en rangs, en tournant le travail entre chaque rang…
Rang 1 (sur l’envers): Glissez 1 à l’envers avec le fil devant (wyif), * p2, k2, répéter de * aux 3 dernières mailles, p2, glisser 1 à l’envers wyif.
Rangée 2 (côté droit): K3, * p2, k2, répéter de * aux 5 dernières mailles, p2, k3.
Répétez les rangs 1 et 2 jusqu’à ce que l’ouvrage mesure 4 pouces du bord de montage, se terminant par le rang 1.
Rangée suivante (côté droit): K3, * p2, k2, répéter de * aux 5 derniers points, p2, k1, k2tog. [279 points]
Travaille maintenant en rond…**** ( là je ne saisis pas…!!)
Tour suivant: Avec le côté droit face à vous, rejoignez le tour avec un k2tog, placez le marqueur, k1, * p2, k2, répétez de * aux 5 dernières mailles, p2, k1, k2tog. [277 points]
Diminuer le tour: Crocheter selon le motif établi, tricoter les mailles et passer les mailles à l’envers à mesure qu’elles apparaissent, pour durer 2 mailles, k2tog. [1 point diminué]
Répétez le tour de diminution à chaque tour jusqu’à ce qu’il reste 177 points, en passant aux aiguilles de 16 pouces si nécessaire.
Reliez le motif de point.
Tisser les extrémités et bloquer si désiré!
Hi Christine,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have any French speakers or translators on staff, so I’m not sure if I can clear this up any more than your translation program! It sounds like you are confused by the instructions to work in the round. This means that you will start knitting in the round, rather than back and forth, and work the rest of the pattern in the round.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you… I’ll’try… perhaps it will be evident ..
Hello!
I just starting knitting this and I am a pretty consistant knitter as far as my gauge goes. Never too far off. However with 280 stitches on size 5 needles my bottom edge is more like 39 inches instead of 30. Is anyone else finding this same issue? I can’t believe I could be that far off. Also the gauge says 40 st should equal 4”. 40 st for me is 6”. I will try to go down to a size 4 but I’m sure that is not going to make that much of an improvement. Any suggestions? Thank you
Have been knitting this pattern over and over❣️, now i would like to switch to kid size. How should the instructions sound like? Thank you.
Hi Cristina,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you have enjoyed this pattern! For a kid I would recommend taking a few measurements, particularly of the shoulder width and then adjusting the pattern from there! Since its knit from the bottom up, you can use the gauge to calculate the cast on based on the shoulder measurements!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Good Morning:
I love this pattern!! My goal is to knit a number of them for gifts. My question is that I can’t get the collar to stand up and need some advice on how I might fix/reknit. Has anyone else had the same issue?
Thanks so much in advance,
Mary
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you enjoy this pattern! I haven’t heard of any problems with the collar, is your gauge consistent with the pattern?
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m also having this problem! My finished cowl is very floppy at the top and doesn’t fan out like it does in the images. My gauge is consistent with the pattern. Would blocking it help this? (I’ve never blocked a project before!)
Thanks for your help – love your yarns and your patterns!
Best,
Catherine
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out! Blocking will definitely help you achieve the look you want with the finished cowl! I would recommend checking out or wonderful Blocking tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this cowl and the yarn!
I’m at the very beginning, row 2, do I knit the purls and purl the knits? Rib pattern? I’m stuck.
Thanks, Lori
Hi Lori,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes this is a rib pattern! So for row 2 you will start by knitting 3 and then work in the p2 k2 rib pattern till you reach the last 3 stitches, then p2, slip 1 purlwise wyif!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I finished knitting this awhile ago, but wasn’t certain how to block it. Would you use a completely wet block method, or would you lay it out, pin it place, and spray it with water?
This may be a silly question, but I have never knitted an entire piece in ribbing, and don’t want to lose the stretch.
Loved the pattern. Loved knitting it. Realized it is not something I will use, but have found a good home for it!
Hi Marsha,
Thanks for reaching out! For blocking this cowl I would suggest soaking the cowl and then laying it flat to dry! When laying it out you can gently stretch it but you don’t need to overstretch it at all. I also wouldn’t suggest using pins for a project with ribbing like this so that it can dry organically and maintain its shape!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hi – do you think it would be ok to substitute a sports weight 5ply merino wool for the alpaca? Thank you – Caroline
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you certainly could! I would just recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern or determine if any changes need to be made!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you for sharing the beautiful pattern, simple yet elegant. I just finished the cowl, but it’s too long for me(21”). I’m planning to redo it, and wonder if I can do it top down, that way I can control the length. Would like to have your thoughts on this. Thank you!
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for reaching out, and thank you for your kind words! I’m so sorry that the cowl turned out too long for you. This pattern is designed to be 16 1/2 inches in height, and the discrepancy could be due to a difference in gauge. Even if you knit this pattern top-down, it will only come out to the correct dimensions (height and circumference) if the gauge is accurate.
So when you redo the project, I would recommend making sure that your gauge swatch matches our intended gauge (37 stitches and 30 rounds in 4 inches), especially in terms of the number of rounds. If you’re finding that it doesn’t, then I would recommend trying a different needle size. I also want to let you know that we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge, which covers some incredibly helpful information!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much for your help!
Hello! After years of drooling over this pattern I am ready to make one for this season. I am looking to substitute yarns as I live abroad, and I noted something: the yarn you used is sport weight with 6-7 stitches/inch, indicating a 24-28 stitch/10 cm(4inches). However, it said that pre and post block was 40 and 37 stitches/10cm, indicating a smaller gauge. Is this because of the way the ribbing pulled the stitches together?
Also, I believe that alpaca is heavier than wool with a given length, indicating that when I substitute yarn I should be paying attention mostly to the gauge; would you agree?
Thank you in advance!
Hi Marie,
Thanks for writing in. Yes, you’re absolutely correct, the gauge for this project ends up being 37 stitches in 4 inches or 10 cm because the ribbing pulls the stitches closer together! We measured it with the ribbing unstretched. When looking for a substitute yarn, you should try to find another sportweight yarn like Season Alpaca. That will be an indication that it will have a similar gauge! There’s definitely a chance that your gauge with the substituted yarn may not matching up at first, so if that’s the case, then I’d recommend trying a different needle size to get it closer. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Perfect; I found some great wool by WALK via a seller here in the EU. It’s coming along well. Thanks very much!!
Hello! This looks fab, thanks for sharing this pattern. I’m a pretty average sized male, would it work or do you think I should consider adding some extra stitches (in 4s!).
Hi CC,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this pattern would absolutely work for you, but the best way to determine if you’d want to add stitches would be to check your measurements against the measurements listed under the “SIZE” heading in the pattern. I’ve listed them below, for quick reference:
SIZE
Finished width at bottom, from one side of split to other, unstretched
Unblocked: 28 inches
Blocked: 30 inches
Finished circumference at top, unstretched
Unblocked: 18 inches
Blocked: 20 inches
Finished height from bottom to top, unstretched
Unblocked: 17 ½ inches
Blocked: 16 ½ inches
I’d recommend measuring across your shoulders and comparing that number to the finished width of the bottom. Also, keep in mind that the ribbing of the pattern will allow for some stretching, so if your measurements fall close to those listed above, you should be good to go! I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Thanks Kelsey! Appreciate you getting back to me. I’ll check against all measurements etc as you suggest. I think I’ll be fine, can’t wait to begin. Thanks again! Love this site.
Hi! If I wanted to do this cowl in mohair (50g/100m) held double, how would I modify this pattern?
Thanks!
Hi Lia,
Thanks for reaching out. Depending on the weight of the yarn you’re using, I doubt you would have to modify the pattern at all! I think you should be able to achieve the intended gauge, which means you can follow the pattern as written. We always recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge! If you would like to learn more about this, we have a handy tutorial called All About Gauge, which you can find right here. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello.
Could you explain what do you mean by “unblocked” and “blocked”?
Thank you.
Hi Magul,
Thanks for reaching out! Blocking is a finishing technique for knit or crocheted items in which you use water to redistribute and even out the stitches. This process can often change the gauge measurements of a project or swatch, which is why we give two different gauge measurements for this project. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili