Converging Lines Cowl
Gathered up around your neck or draped around your shoulders, the Converging Lines Cowl adds not only form and function to your wardrobe, but a bit of panache, too!
It may look complex, but this piece is a case of the sum being greater than its parts. The “converging lines” are nothing more than a once-a-round strategically placed knitting 2 together. Knitting flat for the split at the bottom, you then join into the round and gradually decrease your way to the top. Simple!
We credit our beautiful Season Alpaca for the lovely drape of this extra-warm and cozy cowl. It’s heavy enough to ward off drafts, yet light enough to layer under (or over!) your coat.
A clever way to keep warm without adding bulky layers, our Converging Lines Cowl is certainly practical… But super pretty, too!
Designed by Purl Soho founder and co-owner, Joelle Hoverson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoConvergingLinesCowl, and #PurlSohoSeasonAlpaca. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 skeins of Purl Soho’s Season Alpaca, 100% baby alpaca. Each skein is 218 yards; approximately 625 yards required. We made one cowl in Heirloom White and one in Dove Gray.
- US 5 (3.75mm), 24-inch circular needles
- US 5, 16-inch circular needles
Gauge
Unblocked: 40 stitches x 28 rows/ rounds = 4 inches in 2 x 2 rib, unstretched
Blocked: 37 stitches x 30 rows/ rounds = 4 inches in 2 x 2 rib, unstretched
Size
Finished width at bottom, from one side of split to other, unstretched
- Unblocked: 28 inches
- Blocked: 30 inches
Finished circumference at top, unstretched
- Unblocked: 18 inches
- Blocked: 20 inches
Finished height from bottom to top, unstretched
- Unblocked: 17 ½ inches
- Blocked: 16 ½ inches
Pattern
With longer needles and using a Long Tail Cast On, cast on 280 stitches.
Working back and forth in rows, turning the work between each row…
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, slip 1 purlwise wyif.
Row 2 (right side): K3, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, k3.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 4 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 1.
Next Row (right side): K3, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, k1, k2tog. [279 stitches]
Now working in the round…
Next Round: With right side facing you, join into the round with a k2tog, place marker, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p2, k1, k2tog. [277 stitches]
Decrease Round: Work in established pattern, knitting the knits and purling the purls as they appear, to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat the Decrease Round every round until 177 stitches remain, switching to the 16-inch needles when necessary.
Bind off in stitch pattern.
Weave in ends and block if desired!
Hello! This looks fab, thanks for sharing this pattern. I’m a pretty average sized male, would it work or do you think I should consider adding some extra stitches (in 4s!).
Hi CC,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this pattern would absolutely work for you, but the best way to determine if you’d want to add stitches would be to check your measurements against the measurements listed under the “SIZE” heading in the pattern. I’ve listed them below, for quick reference:
SIZE
Finished width at bottom, from one side of split to other, unstretched
Unblocked: 28 inches
Blocked: 30 inches
Finished circumference at top, unstretched
Unblocked: 18 inches
Blocked: 20 inches
Finished height from bottom to top, unstretched
Unblocked: 17 ½ inches
Blocked: 16 ½ inches
I’d recommend measuring across your shoulders and comparing that number to the finished width of the bottom. Also, keep in mind that the ribbing of the pattern will allow for some stretching, so if your measurements fall close to those listed above, you should be good to go! I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Thanks Kelsey! Appreciate you getting back to me. I’ll check against all measurements etc as you suggest. I think I’ll be fine, can’t wait to begin. Thanks again! Love this site.
Hi! If I wanted to do this cowl in mohair (50g/100m) held double, how would I modify this pattern?
Thanks!
Hi Lia,
Thanks for reaching out. Depending on the weight of the yarn you’re using, I doubt you would have to modify the pattern at all! I think you should be able to achieve the intended gauge, which means you can follow the pattern as written. We always recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge! If you would like to learn more about this, we have a handy tutorial called All About Gauge, which you can find right here. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello.
Could you explain what do you mean by “unblocked” and “blocked”?
Thank you.
Hi Magul,
Thanks for reaching out! Blocking is a finishing technique for knit or crocheted items in which you use water to redistribute and even out the stitches. This process can often change the gauge measurements of a project or swatch, which is why we give two different gauge measurements for this project. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili