Sweet Bunny
Our free Sweet Bunny pattern is a lovable knit that will also become a treasured family heirloom. Knit a whole fluffle (yes, that‘s the real word for a bunch of baby bunnies!) in the naturally beautiful, undyed shades of our cotton and alpaca yarn, Sweetgrass!

The Sweet Bunny is a fun and rewarding knitting challenge… And there’s lots of cuteness and satisfaction along the way, as you work the face flat and shape it with short rows, knit the little arms and legs (and feet!), and make those flopsy-mopsy ears. Our detailed instructions include photos to guide you through every step!

Even if you’ve never knitted a stuffed animal before, shaping the bunny’s face will be very familiar if you’ve worked a short-row sock heel, and the shoulders and body are just like a basic raglan sweater. Combining all those skills in new ways will grow your knitting confidence by leaps and bounds!

The inspiration for this project came from a nest of bunnies in one of our designer’s backyards, a fluffy pile of creamy whites, soft tans, and bark browns just like the undyed neutrals of beautiful Sweetgrass. We just had to make a bunny in every color!

One skein of fingering-weight Sweetgrass makes two bunnies, so give two lucky kiddos a pair of best-friend bunnies… Or pick up a few colors and knit a whole fluffle (had to use that word again)!

All the finishing bits that give your bunny personality – yarn for embroidering the eyes, nose, and smile, plus the stuffing – come together in our Sweet Bunny Finishing Bundle, with enough materials to finish two bunnies.

From the tips of its ears to its fluffy pom pom tail, the Sweet Bunny is just as sweet as can be, so hop to it!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!

Designed by Purl Soho designer, Hiromi Glover. See even more of Hiromi’s work on her Instagram!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoSweetBunny, and #PurlSohoSweetgrass. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials

To make 2 bunnies, you will need…
- 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Sweetgrass, 65% organic cotton and 35% superfine alpaca, undyed. Each skein of fingering-weight yarn is 437 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 195 yards required per bunny.
- A set of five US 1½ (2.75 mm) double pointed needles
- Removable stitch markers, including one unique
- Scrap yarn
- Purl Soho’s Pom Pom Maker Set, Small + Large. We used the Small size with the 1-inch Trim Guide.
- A Sweet Bunny Finishing Bundle, which includes what you need to stuff and finish 2 bunnies (but not the yarn!)…
- A Linen Quill Color Card in Kettle Black for the eyes
- A Linen Quill Color Card in Lychee Pink for the nose and mouth
- DMC embroidery floss in Ecru, for tying and attaching pom pom tail
- Poly stuffing
GAUGE
32 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZE
- Finished Circumference Around Widest Part of Body: Approximately 6 inches, stretching up to 8 inches, stuffed
- Finished Height: Approximately 11 inches
NOTES
CONSTRUCTION
You will knit this bunny from top down, starting with the Face, then the Head, shaping both with short rows. Next, you will pick up around the cast-on edge and work the Neck in the round before working raglan increases to shape the Shoulders. You will divide the Arms and continue to knit the Body in the round, then divide the Legs and return to complete the Arms. You will then pick up and knit the Ears and stuff your bunny so far, before returning to knit the LegsFinally you’ll make and attach a pom pom tail, finish stuffing the bunny, and embroider the face.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all stitches purlwise with yarn in back on right sides and with yarn in front on wrong sides.
PICKING UP STITCHES PURLWISE ALONG A VERTICAL EDGE
Insert your needle, from back to front, between the last and second-to-last columns of stitches; wrap the working yarn around the needle counter-clockwise as if to purl; use the tip of the needle to push that yarn through to the back of the fabric.
For more information about this technique, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial and scroll down to PURLWISE. Please note that this video shows picking up purlwise along the cast-on edge horizontally, so it’s slightly different than what you’ll do here.
SHORT-ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)
On the right side: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
On the wrong side: Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so right side is facing you.
For more information about this technique, please visit our Short Rows Tutorial.
S2KP (SLIP 2, KNIT 1, PSSO)
Slip 2 stitches together knitwise with yarn in back, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
To see this decrease in action, visit our S2KP Tutorial.
S2PP (SLIP, SLIP, PURL PASS)
Slip 1 stitch purlwise, slip 1 stitch knitwise, pass slipped stitches back to left needle with this orientation, then slip these two stitches together purlwise through the back loop, purl 1, then pass the slipped stitches over purl stitch and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
For more help, please visit our S2PP Tutorial.
MAKE 1 BACKWARDS LOOP
Create a loop with the working yarn so that the tail end lies over the working end. Insert the right needle into the loop from front to back. Pull the yarn to tighten the loop on the right needle.
For more help, visit our Make 1 Backwards Loop Tutorial.
PATTERN
HEAD
CAST ON FOR CHIN
Cast 29 stitches onto one double pointed needle. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2: Purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 five more times.
SHAPE FACE
NOTE: You will work the Face back and forth in simple short rows. You will just be turning the work for them and will not need to wrap.
Short Row 1 (right side): K14, make 1 right (m1R), place marker (pm), k1, make 1 left (m1L), k1, slip slip knit (ssk), turn work. [30 stitches]
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 (see Special Instructions), purl to marker, slip marker (sm), p2, purl two together (p2tog), turn work. [29 stitches remain]
Short Row 3: Slip 1 (see Special Instructions), knit to marker, m1R, sm, k1, m1L, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk (with the stitch before and after the gap), turn work. [1 stitch increased]
Short Row 4: Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap (slipping marker as you come to it), p2tog, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 three more times, removing marker on final row. [7 stitches on one needle and 22 stitches on the other]
Short Row 5: Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Short Row 6: Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 five more times. [17 stitches remain]
Here’s how your piece should look at this point…

Next Row (right side): Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk and place removable marker on resulting stitch (you will return to this later for Left Ear), then with right side still facing you, pick up and knit 13 stitches along the selvage. [29 total stitches]
NOTE: For help with picking up stitches, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial and scroll down the page to the Along A Vertical Edge: Stockinette Stitch.
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog and place removable marker on resulting stitch (you will return to this later for Right Ear), then with wrong side still facing you, pick up and knit 13 stitches purlwise (see Special Instructions). [41 total stitches]
Your piece should now look like this with the right side facing you…

SHAPE CROWN
NOTE: In this section you will work wrap + turn short rows. See Special Instructions and the link to our tutorial for help with this technique.
Short Row 1 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, wrp-t (see Special Instructions).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to last 2 stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to 4 stitches before previous wrap, wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to 4 stitches before previous wrap, wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to 6 stitches before previous wrap, wrp-t.
Short Row 6: Purl to 6 stitches before previous wrap, wrp-t.
Next Row: Knit to end of row, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps.
Next Row: Purl to end of row, purling wrapped stitches with their wraps.
SHAPE BACK OF HEAD
NOTE: You will work down the Back of Head to the Neck, back and forth in simple short rows (no wrapping for these!).
Short Row 1 (right side): K26, ssk, turn work. [40 stitches]
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, p11, p2tog, turn work. [39 stitches]
Short Row 3: Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Short Row 4: Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 eight more times. [21 stitches remain]
Short Row 5: Slip 1, knit to 2 stitches before gap, s2kp (see Special Instructions), turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Short Row 6: Slip 1, purl to 2 stitches before gap, s2pp (see Special Instructions), turn work. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Short Rows 5 and 6 three more times. [5 stitches remain]
And here’s where you’re at now…

NECK
NOTE: In the following section, you will pick up stitches from the Back of Head and cast-on edge to work the Neck.
Pick-Up Round (right side): With current needle as Needle 1, slip 1, k4; with a new needle for Needle 2, pick up and knit 3 stitches from Back of Head…

…then pick up and knit 11 stitches from cast-on edge; with another needle for Needle 3, pick up and knit 6 stitches from cast-on edge; with another needle for Needle 4, pick up and knit 11 stitches from cast-on edge, then 3 stitches from other side of Back of Head. [39 total stitches]

Place unique marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1: For Needle 1, k5; for Needle 2, [ssk, k1] 4 times, ssk; for Needle 3, k6; for Needle 4, [k2tog, k1] 4 times, k2tog. [29 stitches remain: 5 stitches on Needle 1; 9 stitches on Needle 2; 6 stitches on Needle 3; 9 stitches on Needle 4]
Round 2: Knit to end of round.
Round 3: For Needle 1, k5; for Needle 2, [ssk, k1] 3 times; for Needle 3, k6; for Needle 4, [k1, k2tog] 3 times. [23 stitches remain: 5 stitches on Needle 1; 6 stitches on each Needle 2, 3, and 4]
Round 4: Repeat Round 2.
BODY
SHAPE SHOULDERS
NOTE: In the following round, you will move the end-of-round marker to the center back Neck and redistribute the stitches on your needles before creating the Shoulders using raglan shaping.
Set-Up Round: For Needle 1, remove unique marker, k2, place unique marker for new end of round, k3, pm, k2 from Needle 2; for Needle 2, k3, pm, k1, then k3 from Needle 3; for Needle 3, k3, pm, then k3 from Needle 4; for Needle 4, k2, pm, k1, then k2 from Needle 1. [23 total stitches: 5 stitches on each Needle 1 and 4; 7 stitches on Needle 2; 6 stitches on Needle 3]
Increase Round 1: K1, [knit to next marker, m1R, sm, k1, m1L] 4 times, knit to end of round. [8 stitches increased]
Round 2: Knit to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 seven more times. [87 total stitches: 21 stitches on each Needle 1 and 4; 23 stitches on Needle 2; 22 stitches on Needle 3]
DIVIDE ARMS + BODY
NOTE: In the following round, remove markers as you come to them, except unique end-of-round marker.
Division Round: K32, slip previous 20 stitches onto scrap yarn for Left Arm, k44, slip previous 20 stitches onto another piece of scrap yarn for Right Arm, k11. [47 total stitches remain: 23 stitches for Back; 24 stitches for Front]
Here’s how your work should look now…

NOTE: We put our end-of-round marker on the first stitch of the round just for this photo, so it wouldn’t slip off our needles! The end of round is still between Needles 1 and 4.
CAST ON FOR UNDERARMS
Cast-On Round: Knit to on-hold Left Arm stitches, cast on 1 stitch for Left Underarm using Make 1 Backwards Loop (see Special Instructions), knit to on-hold Right Arm stitches, cast on 1 stitch for Right Underarm using Make 1 Backwards Loop, knit to end of round. [49 total stitches]
CONTINUE BODY
Distribute stitches as evenly as possible on 3 double pointed needles.
Knit every round until piece measures 2 inches from Underarms.
DIVIDE LEGS FROM BODY
Division Round: Ssk, k21, place previous 20 stitches onto scrap yarn for Left Leg, bind off 4 stitches, knit to last 2 stitches, place previous 20 stitches onto another piece of scrap yarn for Right Leg, bind off remaining 4 stitches, removing end-of-round marker as you come to it. [40 total stitches remain: 20 stitches each for Left and Right Leg]
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for seaming.
ARMS
Return a set of on-hold Arm stitches to 3 double pointed needles, distributing them as evenly as possible.
Pick-Up Round: With another needle and beginning at center of Underarm with right side facing you, pick up and knit 2 stitches, then continue knitting to end of Needle 1; for Needle 2, knit to end of needle; for Needle 3, knit to end of needle, then pick up and knit 1 stitch from right side of Underarm. [23 total stitches]
Place unique marker and join for working in the round.
Next Round: Ssk, k19, k2tog, remove unique marker, slip last stitch worked to left needle and pass next stitch over last stitch, slip remaining stitch back to right needle, replace marker for new end of round. [20 stitches remain]
Knit every round until Arm measures 2½ inches from Pick-Up Round.
SHAPE ARMS
Decrease Round 1: Ssk, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [2 stitches decreased]
Knit 3 rounds even.
Repeat last 4 rounds 2 more times, then repeat Decrease Round one more time. [12 stitches remain]
Cut yarn, leaving a 12-inch tail.
Slip first 6 stitches to one needle and last 6 stitches to another needle, and holding needles parallel, use Kitchener Stitch to graft Arm closed.
Repeat for other Arm.
EARS
PICK UP STITCHES
NOTE: When you pick up stitches in this section, pick up the horizontal bar between the columns of stitches, as you would for Mattress Stitch.
Pick up and knit 18 stitches for Ear, as follows (images below show picking up for the Left Ear, which is the ear on the left if looking at the bunny))…

Locate the Ear marker that you placed in the Shape Face section. Beginning at the Ear marker and working towards the Back of Head, pick up and knit 1 stitch from the row next to the marker…

… then pick up and knit 1 stitch in each of the next 8 rows. [9 stitches]

Rotate the bunny 180 degrees, and with a second double pointed needle working back towards the Ear marker, pick up and knit 9 stitches in the column next to the stitches you already picked up.

Remove Ear marker. [18 total stitches]
Thread tail onto tapestry needle and draw through center of ear to wrong side for weaving in later.
REDISTRIBUTE STITCHES
Place unique marker and join for working in the round.
LEFT EAR
NOTE: Again, Left Ear is left if looking at bunny.
Set-Up Round: For Needle 1, k4, pm, k2; for Needle 2, k6; for Needle 3, k6 to end of round.
Continue to Shape Ear section, below.
RIGHT EAR
NOTE: Right Ear is right if looking at bunny.
Set-Up Round: For Needle 1, k6; for Needle 2, k6; for Needle 3, k1, pm, k5 to end of round.
Continue to Shape Ear section.
SHAPE EAR
BOTH EARS
Increase Round: Knit to next marker, m1R, sm, k1, m1L, knit to end of round. [2 stitches increased]
Knit 1 round even.
Repeat last 2 rounds 10 more times. [40 total stitches]
NOTE: Add an additional needle if Needle 1/ Needle 3 stitches become too difficult to manage on one needle. Additional needle will still count as Needle 1/ Needle 3, until you no longer need it after decreasing.
Knit 6 rounds even.
Next Round: Knit to next marker, remove marker, k1, place removable marker on the stitch you just knit, knit to end of round.
Decrease Round 1: Knit to 1 stitch before marked stitch, s2kp, replace marker on s2kp stitch, knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Knit 1 round even.
Repeat last 2 rounds 13 more times, redistributing stitches on needles as needed without moving location of end-of-round marker (between Needles 1 and 3). [12 stitches remain]
Repeat Decrease Round one more time (your marked stitch should be right next to the endofround marker). [10 stitches remain]
LEFT EAR
Next Partial Round: Remove end of round marker, k7, place marker for new end of round.
Decrease Round 2: Knit to 1 stitch before marked stitch, s2kp, replace marker on s2kp stitch, knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Knit 1 round even.
Repeat Decrease Round 2 one more time. [6 stitches remain]
Go on to Both Ears section, below.
RIGHT EAR
Next Partial Round: Remove end-of-round marker, k3, place marker for new end of round.
Knit 1 round even.
Decrease Round 2: Knit to 1 stitch before marked stitch, s2kp, replace marker on s2kp stitch, knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rows one more time. [6 stitches remain]
Go on to Both Ears section.
BOTH EARS
Redistribute stitches onto two double pointed needles, slipping first 3 stitches onto one needle, removing markers, and slipping remaining 3 stitches onto another needle.
Holding needles parallel, use Kitchener Stitch to graft Ear closed.
Repeat for other Ear.
FIRST ROUND OF STUFFING
Weave in all ends, except the long tail between the legs (we’ll use this later to seam the bunny closed). Close any holes at Underarms, as necessary.
Give your bunny a light steam if needed.
Stuff the bunny with filling so it is nice and plump, beginning with the Head, then the Arms, and finally the Body. (Hint: The ball-end of a straight knitting needle makes a great tool for pushing stuffing into hard to reach spots!)
LEGS
BEGIN
Return a set of on-hold Leg stitches to 3 double pointed needles, as evenly as possible.
With right side facing you, rejoin yarn at stitch next to bind-off edge and…
Set-Up Round: K10, pm, knit to end of round.
Place unique marker and join for working in the round.
Knit every round until Leg measures 2¾ inches.
SHAPE FOOT
Increase Round: [Knit front and back (kfb), knit to 2 stitches before next marker, kfb, k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches increased]
Knit 1 round even.
Repeat last two rounds 2 more times. [32 stitches]
Knit 2 rounds even.
Decrease Round 1: [Ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Knit 1 round even.
Repeat last two rounds 3 more times. [16 stitches remain]
Slip first 8 stitches onto one needle and last 8 stitches onto another needle, and holding needles parallel, use Kitchener Stitch to graft the Foot closed.
Repeat for other Leg.
FINISHING
MAKE + ATTACH TAIL
Make a 1-inch pom pom with your leftover yarn and using a length of embroidery floss to tie the pom pom before trimming. If you’re using Purl Soho’s Pom Pom Maker Set, use the Small Pom Pom Maker and the 1-inch Trim Guide, and follow the basic instructions for a Solid Pom Pom found in our Pom Pom Tutorial.
Attach the pom pom by threading each embroidery floss tail separately through the Back of the bunny, right where a fluffy tail would go. Tie the tails into a knot, then thread the tails back through the fabric and up through the pom pom itself, trimming them just below the surface of the pom pom.
STUFF THE LEGS
Weave in all remaining ends, except the long tail between the Legs.
Steam the Legs if necessary, then stuff them with the remaining filling.
NOTE: Visit our Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally Tutorial for help with the next step.
Turn the bunny upside down so the bound-off stitches between the Legs are facing you. Thread the long tail onto a tapestry needle and seam the hole closed, closing any gaps at the sides as needed.
EMBROIDER THE FACE

Thread the yarn needle with a length of Linen Quill in Kettle Black (or whichever yarn you choose) and embroider the eyes. Then, switch to Linen Quill in Lychee Pink for the bunny’s nose and sweet smile!

Learn About Sweetgrass + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Sweetgrass brings true natural beauty to this project! A mix of 65% organic cotton and 35% superfine alpaca, Sweetgrass comes in 6 undyed colors, each one reflecting the color of the alpacas who grew the fiber… Amazing! And when that alpaca fiber is mixed with creamy white cotton, you get a soft and lovely heathered quality that adds depth and fascination to the yarn. A fingering-weight yarn, Sweetgrass is absolutely beautiful for three-season scarves, sweaters, and sweet hats, or double it for super cabin-y blankets. At 437 yards per skein, you’ll go far with just a few skeins!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our inspiring collection of (mostly free!) Sweetgrass knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cotton yarn
- Shop alpaca yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Hello. I love this bunny pattern, but….
I hate DP needles. Can this be done on magic loop?
How do I print pattern without images (uses too much paper)?
Thanks,
Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you can absolutely use magic loop for this pattern. The instructions are written with stitch counts so you can follow them as written.
And I would recommend using the print function on our website to print out this pattern! If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
All the best,
Lili
Since this is for a child, it will get dirty. How do you propose washing and drying the bunny?
Thanks.
Hillary
Hi Hillary,
We would suggest washing these sweet toys with cold water and your favorite wool wash. You could squeeze them until the water runs clear and then use a towel to squeeze out the excess water. Afterwards, we recommend laying them out to air dry. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello,
I love this pattern and would like to make it for a neighbor with 3 small children. My question is: given that this is a child’s toy, how would/could it be cleaned?
Thank you,
Mary
Hi Mary,
We are happy to hear you love this pattern as much as we do! We would suggest washing these sweet bunnies with cold water and your favorite wool wash. You could squeeze them until the water runs clear and then use a towel to squeeze out the excess water. Afterwards, we recommend laying them out to air dry.
All the best,
Gavriella
Are there plans to make patterns for any clothes for this sweet bunny? For eg a jumper (sweater) and shorts. I want to make some for my friends’ children – boys & girls – but I want them to be able to distinguish which is their bunny and I thought this would be a good way to do it. I can’t make patterns up but I can follow patterns so it would be great if someone would design clothes for them! Thanks (in hope and with fingers crossed) Juli
Hi Juli,
Thank you for such wonderful suggestions! We don’t currently have plans to make clothes for these bunnies but I will definitely pass your requests to our design team! In the meantime, I believe you will find lots of wonderful options on Ravelry.
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I can’t print your patterns without the page showing up with other printed material showing over it and the print in this case comes to 42 pages! I always have to do a screen shot of the pattern instructions and print that. Does everyone have this problem??
Hi Sam,
I’m so sorry to hear that you’re having trouble printing our patterns! I would recommend using the Print function on our website, rather than printing directly from your browser. Here’s how to do that: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there, thank you for this beautiful pattern. In the first short row shaping of the chin there are 2 increases. We are starting with 29 but it says that there are now 30. Is that a mistake or am I misunderstanding something. Therese
Hi Therese,
Thanks for writing in! You’re correct, on Short Row 1, there are two increase stitches. However, there is also a decrease stitch, which essentially cancels out one of the increases, bringing the stitch count to exactly 30 stitches. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I am tickled pink to see this adorable bunny pattern as I purchased Sweetgrass a sale or two ago and had no actual plan for it. I now have the plan for BUNNIES!!
This is a really sweet old fashioned looking bunny. I love those ears.
Thank you for you wonderful patterns.
Hi Margaret,
We are so happy to hear this pattern caught your eye! Now you have a sweet plan for your Sweetgrass yarn! Please let us know if you have any questions along the way!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I also am enjoying knitting this bunny. I have gotten to the part where we divide the stitches for the arms. On the instructions – Division Round: K32, slip last 20 stitches (shouldn’t it read slip next 20 stitches?), than to K44? Doesn’t seem right.
Hi Myrna-Lynn,
Thank you for asking! We can definitely understand the mixup here. This instruction is actually indicating to place the previous 20 stitches that you just knit onto a holder. So instead of the ‘next’ 20, it will be 20 stitches of those that were just knit. I hope this helps clarify and we will be sure to update the pattern accordingly. Thank you so much for catching that!
All the best,
Gavriella
I see you made a word change here. “Division Round: K32, slip previous 20 stitches onto scrap yarn for Left Arm, k44, slip previous 20 stitches onto another piece of scrap yarn for Right Arm, k11. [47 total stitches remain: 23 stitches for Back; 24 stitches for Front]”
Very helpful and much clearer. I was very confused when it said “last 20 stitches” instead of “previous 20 stitches”.
Hello,
I’m getting my materials together for this pattern, I’m confused about the needle size listed. US 1 1/2 is not equivalent to 2mm according to the Crystal Palace needles for sale; however, US 2 is equivalent to 2.75mm. What size would you suggest? Thanks!
Hi Jennifer,
Thank you for asking! For this pattern, you will need a size 2.75 mm needle or any size that helps you get gauge. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
I am attempting bunny #1 of sweet bunny; it is time for the ears and I do not understand how to p/u the stitches to knit the ears. is there a video tutorial somewhere?? many thanks in advance
Hi Mir,
Thank you for asking! For more information about this technique, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial and scroll down to PURLWISE. Please note that this video shows picking up purlwise along the cast-on edge horizontally, so it’s slightly different than what you’ll do here.
All the best,
Gavriella
I too would love to see a video of these ear stitches being picked up vertically, in the middle of the piece when there is no access to the wrong side. I have struggled through doing this on my first bunny, but there MUST be a better way/explanation…help please?
Hi Leslie,
I’m afraid we haven’t created a tutorial on this specifically, but we’re more than happy to demonstrate it for you! If you book a 1-On-1 Help appointment, a member of our team can meet over Zoom to demonstrate skills and answer any questions you have!
All the best,
Lili
Hello. I am excited to start making this bunny ! But could you please clarify? The special instructions says to slip all stitches purlwise. Does this also apply to SSK? Thank you.
Hi Chyvette,
Thank you for writing in! We slipped all stitches purlwise except for the techniques noted under the notes section. You can also see our full SSK tutorial here! I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
I am about to start the bunny but it says to use 1 1/2 US (2.75 mm) DP needles… (2.75mm is a size 2 DP needle not a 1 1/2. I can’t find a size 1 1/2. Do you sell them?
Hi Barbara,
The metric sizes we indicate in our patterns might differ from what you’re used to since different needle companies sometimes assign the millimeter measurements to different US sizes. These inconsistencies, while frustrating, are very common when comparing needles, so when in doubt, rely on metric sizes…they’re standardized! And as long as you find needles with which you can achieve the correct gauge, those will work for the pattern!
All the best,
Lili
I worked out the needle situation – using a size 2 (2.75 mm) – I have to say …this is a very challenging project for me 😏 but have just finished the left ear! Oy vey! I know my bunny will be adorable! Keeping him for myself after all of this work! I love bunnies! On to the right ear!
Thanks for your feedback about the needle size.
Barbara
I am confused here. There are two markers. Instruction says Shape foot: [kfb, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, kfb, k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches increased]
Where are the Kfb placed?
Hi Angela,
The first kfb is located right after the end-of-round (unique) marker, the next is located one stitch before the next marker, the next is located right after the next marker, and the final one is located just before the end-of-round marker. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you. That helps to understand it better. I’m almost done with the first one. I am making one in each color. I believe that practice will make perfect.
You’re very welcome!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there~~~
for the body shaping with ralgan the instructions states to: For Needle 1, remove unique marker, k2, place unique marker for new end of round, k3, pm, k2 from Needle 2
but that gives 7 stitches onto needle 1? which is supposed to have 5 stitches total at the end of the round? i feel like i am missing something here
thank you!
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! The final two stitches on Needle 1 come from the “k2 from Needle 2” instructions. You knit the 5 stitches originally on Needle 1, and then the 6th and 7th are the two you knit from Needle 2. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I don’t love the M1L/R increases, so for both the shoulders and the ears I’ve opted for lifted increases, using the stitch before the marker and the one after.
Is there a good reason to use M1’s instead, that I’m overlooking?
I’m also curious whether, for the ears, SSK/K2tog could be substituted for the S2KP decreases. I struggled to keep the centered decreases tidy.
Hi Jo,
The choice of increase and decrease stitches were just a design choice, but you can absolutely substitute different ones if you prefer them!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for this pattern! I’m learning a lot, and it looks like I’ll actually end up with a bunny 🙂
Just before stuffing the bunny you suggest steaming it; can you explain what this is? I’m wondering specifically how to give the ears a good final shape, since mine are a little soggy. (I mean the ears on my bunny; my own are fine…)
Hi Jo,
Steaming helps even out your stitches and shape the knit fabric! Our pattern recommends steaming–if necessary–since we’ve found that parts of the bunny can sometimes come out a bit misshapen. If you don’t feel the need to reshape any parts though, you definitely don’t have to steam them! If you’ve already started the steaming process, I’d just recommend letting the yarn fully dry before adding the stuffing!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for the response! What IS the steaming process?
You’re very welcome! To steam block your knitting, just hold an iron or steamer closely over the knit fabric (without touching it) to let the steam saturate the stitches. You can even pin the knitting to a blocking mat to help it maintain the correct shape as you steam and let it dry afterwards.
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I am on Short Row 3 for forming the face and I am a bit confused about what is meant by “knit to 1 stitch before the gap”. I am not sure what “the gap” is referring to. Could you please clarify?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! When you work partial rows by turning your work (without doing a short row method such as wrapping the next stitch), you’ll end up with a gap right where you turned the work. I’d recommend going ahead with Short Row 3, and you should see the gap when you get to it! If not, please send a photo of your work to [email protected], and we can take a closer look from there.
All the best,
Lili
I’ve made three bunnies now (so fun!) and have noticed a tendency for the arms and legs to be constricted at the point where I picked up the on-hold stitches. Do you have any wisdom for avoiding this outcome?
Hi Jo,
That’s a very common thing to happen when you start knitting with new yarn after stitches have been on hold for a while! It all comes down to the tension being a bit too tight. I would recommend trying to make sure your tension stays relatively loose while you knit the first few rows, and that should help significantly. If you’re still finding that the first row or two is a bit too tight, then you could even try using larger needles for just these rows and then switching back to the original size.
All the best,
Lili