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Continue ShoppingLucky Fish
Our Lucky Fish knitting pattern is a joyful little knit inspired by the lively grace of koi fish, long associated with strength, perseverance, and good fortune. Just one skein of our hand-dyed Pepper yarn brings each fish to life—and now there are 13 new colors to choose from, semi-solid hues swimming fin-to-fin with the softly speckled palette you already love.

You start each Lucky Fish at the ribbed tail, worked flat with easy short-row shaping. Then you divide the stitches into two layers and work the body of the fish in the round with Magic Loop—we have a great tutorial if you’re new to this way of working a small number of stitches in the round! Along the way, we’ll show you exactly where to place a few guides to help you pick up stitches for the fins later on.

Finish your fish by stuffing it to perfect plumpness, then shape the face, add smocking stitch eyes, and knit the four ribbed fins… Ready to swim!

Pepper’s splashy hand-dyed colors combine with an easy slip-stitch pattern to emulate flashing scales, marbled color, and charming freckles, making each fish unique. This smooth sport- to DK-weight single ply of 100% superwash merino wool is supremely soft for cuddling and can even take a dip in the washer without fear of felting.

Pepper’s palette now has two distinct personalities, both full of depth, contrast, and surprises from stitch to stitch. Some are subtly speckled on a warm white base, like Eastern Bluebird and Black Cherry—while others, like Pink Apricot and Candy Apple, are turned up a notch, with bolder, saturated hues and just a hint of white peeking through.


From tail to fins, the Lucky Fish is a true joy to knit as each new feature takes shape and unexpected colors ripple across the fabric. Pick up a few colors of Pepper and cast on—before you know it, a whole shoal of spirited fish will be swimming off your needles!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!

Pattern designed and written by Purl Soho designer, Hiromi Glover. See even more of Hiromi’s work on her Instagram!
Story written by Andrea Lotz for Purl Soho.
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials

- 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Pepper, 100% superwash merino wool. Each skein of this sport- to light worsted/DK-weight yarn is 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 145 total yards required. We used the colors Black Cherry, Candy Apple, Eastern Bluebird, Ferris Wheel, and Pink Apricot.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 32-inch circular knitting needles for Magic Loop (see Notes)
- US 6 (4 mm), 32-inch circular needles for Magic Loop
- A spare double pointed needle, US 6 or smaller
- Removable stitch markers, including 3 unique
- Poly-fil stuffing
GAUGE
40 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in 1×1 rib, on smaller needles
32 stitches and 60 rounds = 4 inches in Textured Slip Stitch Pattern (see Notes), on larger needles
SIZE
- Finished Body Circumference: Approximately 7¾ inches-8½ inches, stuffed
- Finished Length: 14 inches
NOTES
CONSTRUCTION
You will begin by knitting the Tail back and forth in rows, shaping it with short rows. Then you’ll divide the stitches into two layers and join them to knit the Body in the round, shaping it with increases and decreases. Next you’ll lightly stuff the fish, work the Face, finish stuffing, and then make the Side, Top, and Bottom Fins.
MAGIC LOOP
Because this pattern works a stitch pattern over a small circumference and requires picking up stitches along a curved edge, we found it easiest to use 32-inch circular knitting needles and the Magic Loop technique. However, feel free to use double pointed needles for the whole thing, if you prefer!
To learn how to use a Magic Loop, visit our Magic Loop Tutorial… A simple way to knit small circumferences!
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all stitches purlwise unless otherwise specified.
TEXTURED SLIP STITCH PATTERN (FOR GAUGE SWATCH)
Cast on an even number of stitches, in the round.
Round 1: Knit to end of round.
Rounds 2 and 3: *K1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back (wyib), repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4: Repeat Round 1.
Rounds 5 and 6: *Slip 1 purlwise wyib, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1–6 to desired length.
GERMAN SHORT ROWS IN 1×1 RIB
NOTE: For a video tutorial, please visit our German Short Rows Tutorial. Just note that, because you’re working in a 1×1 rib pattern here, you need to make a small adjustment so that the yarn ends up in the right place to work the next stitch. Here’s how…
MAKE DOUBLE STITCH
IF THE LAST STITCH WORKED WAS A PURL: Turn work. Slip 1 to right needle with yarn in front, pull working yarn tightly over needle so it tugs up both legs of slipped stitch to look like two stitches, i.e. a “double stitch.” Bring yarn forward between needles so yarn is in front.
IF THE LAST STITCH WORKED WAS A KNIT: Turn work. Slip 1 to right needle with yarn in front, pull working yarn tightly over needle so it tugs up both legs of slipped stitch to look like two stitches, i.e. a “double stitch.” Bring yarn over needle and leave it so yarn is in back.
WORK DOUBLE STITCH AS SINGLE STITCH
When you reach the double stitch, work it as a single stitch by knitting or purling both legs of double stitch together as needed to maintain pattern.
PATTERN
TAIL
Cast 33 stitches onto smaller needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Do not join for working in the round.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 1 (see Notes) with yarn in front (wyif), *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
NOTE: Place a piece of scrap yarn or stitch marker on previous row to indicate the wrong side and help you stay oriented.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 with yarn in back (wyib), *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 7 times, make double stitch (see Notes).
Short Row 3: Work in 1×1 rib (knitting the knits and purling the purls) to last 2 stitches, k2.
Short Row 4: Slip 1 wyif, work in established rib to 1 stitch before double stitch, make double stitch.
Short Rows 5–7: Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 one time, then repeat Short Row 3 one more time.
Row 8: Slip 1 wyif, work in established rib to last 2 stitches, p2, working double stitches as single stitches (see Notes).
Short Row 9: Slip 1 wyib, [k1, p1] 6 times, k1, make double stitch.
Short Row 10: Work in established rib to last stitch, p1.
Short Row 11: Slip 1 wyib, work in established rib to 2 stitches before double stitch, k1, make double stitch.
Short Rows 12–14: Repeat Short Rows 10 and 11 one time, then repeat Short Row 10 one more time.
Row 15: Slip 1 wyib, work in established rib to last 2 stitches, k2, working double stitches as single stitches.
Row 16: Slip 1 wyif, work in established rib to last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 17: Slip 1 wyib, slip slip knit (ssk), work in established rib to last 4 stitches, k1, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 18: Slip 1 wyif, purl 2 together (p2tog), work in established rib to last 4 stitches, k1, slip slip purl (ssp), p1. [2 stitches decreased]
Rows 19–23: Repeat Rows 17 and 18 two times, then repeat Row 17 one more time. [19 stitches remain]
Row 24: Slip 1 wyif, p2, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 25: Slip 1 wyib, ssk, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, p1, k2tog, k1. [17 stitches remain]
Row 26: Repeat Row 16.
Row 27: Repeat Row 17 one more time. [15 stitches remain]
Row 28: Slip 1 wyif, p2, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [14 stitches remain]
BODY
SET UP
Redistribute stitches to separate Tail into two layers. Here’s how…
With right-side of work facing you, hold needle with Tail stitches in your left hand. Hold right end of circular needles (i.e. the “working needle”) and spare double pointed needle parallel to each other in your right hand, with working needle in back and spare needle in front.
Set-Up Row (right side): *Slip 1 wyib from left needle to back working needle, slip 1 wyib from left needle to front double pointed needle, repeat from * to last stitch. [7 stitches on each needle]
With larger needles, k7 from front needle, place marker (pm), k7 from back needle, place unique marker for end of round at top of fish’s spine. Arrange the stitches on two needles for Magic Loop (see Notes). [2 total stitch markers]
Knit 4 rounds even.
INCREASE
Round 1: [K1, make 1 right (m1R), knit to 1 stitch before next marker, make 1 left (m1L), k1, slip marker (sm)] 2 times. [4 stitches increased]
Rounds 2 and 3: [K1, *slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from * to next marker, sm] 2 times.
NOTE: In Rounds 4–33, when you repeat Round 1, work the m1R and m1L by picking up the float from the adjacent slipped stitch.
Rounds 4–33: Repeat Rounds 1–3 ten more times. [58 stitches]
Round 34: Knit to end of round, slipping markers as you come to them.
Rounds 35 and 36: [K2, *slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1, sm] 2 times.
Round 37: Repeat Round 1. [62 stitches]
Rounds 38 and 39: Repeat Rounds 35 and 36.
WORK EVEN
NOTE: You will place removable markers in this section to indicate the placement of Top and Bottom Fin later. Use two distinct markers (e.g., different colors or types) to differentiate between them, and make a note of which is which.
Round 1: Knit to end of round, slipping markers as you come to them.
Rounds 2 and 3: [K1, *slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from * to next marker, sm] 2 times.
Round 4: Repeat Round 1.
Rounds 5 and 6: [K2, *slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1, sm] 2 times.
Repeat Rounds 1–6 four more times, then repeat Rounds 1–5 one more time.
Next Round: K2, *slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1, sm, k1, place unique removable marker on previous stitch to indicate beginning of Bottom Fin, k1, **slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from ** to 1 stitch before end of round, k1.
Repeat Rounds 1–6 three more times, placing another unique removable marker on last stitch of final Round 6 to indicate beginning of Top Fin.
DECREASE
Round 1: [K1, k2tog, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Rounds 2 and 3: [K2, *slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1, sm] 2 times.
Round 4: Knit to end to round, slipping markers as you come to them.
Rounds 5 and 6: [*K1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1, sm] 2 times.
Round 7: Repeat Round 4.
Rounds 8–12: Repeat Rounds 2–6.
Round 13: Repeat Round 1. [54 stitches remain]
Rounds 14 and 15: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6.
Round 16: Repeat Round 4.
Rounds 17 and 18: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3.
Round 19: Repeat Round 4.
Rounds 20–24: Repeat Rounds 14–18.
Repeat Rounds 1–12 one more time, then repeat Round 1 one more time. [46 stitches remain]
Leave stitches on needles. Do not cut yarn.
FIRST ROUND OF STUFFING
Steam piece lightly, if needed.
Stuff the piece with filling so it is nice and plump. (Tip: The ball-end of a straight knitting needle makes a great tool for pushing stuffing into hard to reach bottom spots.)
FACE
Returning to live stitches and working yarn…
Round 1: Knit to 8 stitches before next marker, p5, k3, sm, k3, p5, knit to end of round. (The purl stitches worked in this round indicate where to pick up stitches for Side Fins later.)
Round 2: Knit to end of round, slipping markers as you come to them.
Round 3: [K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm] 2 times. [4 stitches decreased]
Round 4: Knit to end of round, slipping markers as you come to them.
Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 three more times. [30 stitches remain]
Round 5: K1, ssk, k2, *slip next 2 stitches to spare double pointed needle, wrap yarn counter-clockwise around these 2 stitches 2 times, cinching stitches together lightly to create fish’s “eye” and finishing with yarn at back of work; with right needle, k2 stitches from spare needle**, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, k5, repeat from * to **, k2, k2tog, k1. [26 stitches remain]
Round 6: Repeat Round 4.
Rounds 7–14: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 four more times. [10 stitches remain]
Stuff Face until it is plump and full.
Last Round: [K1, slip slip knit pass (s2kp), k1, sm] 2 times. [6 stitches remain]
Cut yarn and thread tail onto a tapestry needle. Draw needle through remaining stitches and pull taut.
Weave in all ends.
SIDE FINS
Lay fish flat, with the Face close to you and the Tail away.
Using smaller needles, pick up 1 stitch in each of the 5 garter bumps on one side of Face (look for the smile-shaped stitches, as shown above). [5 stitches]
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, p1, k1, p2.
NOTE: Place a piece of scrap yarn or stitch marker on previous row to indicate the wrong side and help orient you.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyib, m1R, k1, p1, k1, m1L, k1. [7 stitches]
Row 2: Slip 1 wyif, p2, k1, p3.
Row 3: Slip 1 wyib, k1, make 1 purlwise (m1P), work in established rib to last 2 stitches, m1P, k2. [2 stitches increased]
Row 4: Slip 1 wyif, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 5: Slip 1 wyib, m1R, work in established rib to last 2 stitches, k1, m1L, k1. [11 stitches]
Row 6: Slip 1 wyif, p2, work in established rib to last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 7: Repeat Row 3. [13 stitches]
Row 8: Repeat Row 4.
Row 9: Slip 1 wyib, ssk, work in established rib last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 10: Repeat Row 6.
Row 11: Repeat Row 9. [9 stitches remain]
Row 12: Repeat Row 4.
Row 13: Repeat Row 9. [7 stitches remain]
Row 14: Repeat Row 2.
Row 15: Slip 1 wyib, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1. [5 stitches remain]
Row 16: Slip 1 wyif, p1, k1, p2.
Row 17: Ssk, p1, k2tog. [3 stitches remain]
Cut yarn and thread tail onto a tapestry needle. Sew tail through remaining stitches and pull taut.
Turn piece over and repeat for other Side Fin.
TOP FIN

Stand fish on bottom edge, with Tail at left and Face at right.
With smaller needles and beginning at Top Fin marker, pick up and knit 39 stitches along top column of knit stitches, picking up every other stitch. To pick up, insert needle under both legs of stitch, as shown above.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
NOTE: Place a piece of scrap yarn or stitch marker on previous row to indicate wrong side and help orient you.
Short Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 wyib, ssk, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, k1, make double stitch. [38 stitches remain]
Short Row 2: Work in established rib to last 2 stitches, p2.
Short Row 3: Slip 1 wyib, ssk, work in established rib to 7 stitches before double stitch, make double stitch. [37 stitches remain]
Short Row 4: Work in established rib to last stitch, p1.
Short Row 5: Slip 1 wyib, ssk, work in established rib to 8 stitches before double stitch, k1, make double stitch. [36 stitches remain]
Short Row 6: Repeat Short Row 2.
Row 7: Slip 1 wyib, ssk, work in established rib to last stitch, working double stitches as single stitches, k1. [35 stitches remain]
Row 8: Slip 1 wyif, *p1, pass first stitch over second stitch, k1, pass first stitch over second stitch, repeat from * until 10 stitches remain on left needle, [p1, k1] 4 times, p2. [11 stitches remain]
Row 9: Slip 1 wyib, ssk, [k1, p1] 3 times, k2. [10 stitches remain]
Row 10: Slip 1 wyif, [p1, k1] 3 times, p3.
Row 11: Slip 1 wyib, ssk, [p1, k1] 2 times, p1, k2tog. [8 stitches remain]
Row 12: Slip 1 wyif, p2, [k1, p1] 2 times, p1.
Row 13: Slip 1 wyib, ssk, k1, p1, k1, k2tog. [6 stitches remain]
Row 14: Slip 1 wyif, p1, k1, p3.
Row 15: Slip 1 wyib, ssk, pass first stitch over second stitch, p1, pass first stitch over second stitch, k2tog, pass first stitch over second stitch. [1 stitch remains]
Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.
BOTTOM FIN
Stand fish on top edge, with Tail at left and Face at right.
With smaller needles and beginning at Bottom Fin marker, pick up and knit 15 stitches along bottom, as for Top Fin.
Set-Up Short Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, make double stitch.
NOTE: Place a piece of scrap yarn or stitch marker on previous row for wrong side and to help orient you.
Short Row 1 (right side): *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Short Row 2: Slip 1 wyif, work in established rib to 1 stitch before double stitch, make double stitch.
Repeat Short Rows 1 and 2 two more times, then repeat Short Row 1 one more time.
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, work in established rib to last 2 stitches, working double stitches as single stitches, p2.
With right side facing you, bind off in stitch pattern, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches.
FINISHING
Weave in all remaining ends and steam fins if necessary.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!


LEARN ABOUT PEPPER + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
A plush, single-ply yarn like Pepper is perfect for this project, with its luminous glow and incredible softness. 100% superwash merino wool (yes, that means you can put it in the washing machine!), Pepper knits up at a sport to light worsted/DK weight, with surprising pops of hand-sprinkled and hand-printed color to charm you all along the way. Cast on with this zesty delight of a hand-dyed yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our growing collection of free Pepper knitting patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns (What does DK-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to DK yarn will answer your questions and demystify.)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial and our Yarn Substitution article for lots of helpful information.
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop superwash wool yarn
- Shop machine washable yarn
- Shop merino wool yarn
- Shop hand-dyed yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!















This pattern is adorable and I want to make it. But must I use 32″ needles for magic loop? I have many needles in size 4 & 6, but they’re all 24″. Thanks.
Hi Melanie!
Thank you for your question! You don’t have to use Magic Loop! Since you have 24″ needles in the right sizes, you can absolutely use the Two Circular Needles method instead. That will work just as well for this pattern.
Happy knitting!
Megan
I’m interested in knitting the lucky fish – how much polyfil per fish?
I’m putting together an order now for the pepper yarn too.
Thanks!
Hi Charlotte!
Thanks so much for writing in! We’re so glad you’re excited about the Lucky Fish! There isn’t a specific amount of polyfil listed for the pattern; you’ll just need enough to stuff each fish to your desired level of plumpness. A small bag will go a long way, and you can adjust as you go.
Happy knitting!
Megan
Looks good screen showed i give ago
Hi Diane,
We’re so glad our new Lucky Fish caught your eye! Please let us know if you have any questions as you get started!
Warmly,
Andrea
Hi, I am stuck transitioning from the tail to the body. I divided the stitches on the two needles, then used the size 6 circular needle (32″) to knit the 7 stitches from the front needle (double pointed needle) according to the instructions. I don’t know how I can knit the remaining 7 stitches from the back needle. Am I supposed to use the same size 6 needle which has the first 7 stitches on it? It seems impossible to do that. Please help!
Hi Jeanne!
Thank you for writing in! You’re very close, and this part is tricky to visualize, so your confusion is completely understandable.
Yes, you do use the same size 6 circular needle to knit all 14 stitches. Here’s the key idea that makes it work: After redistributing, you’ll have 7 stitches on the front needle and 7 stitches on the back needle. Using the right-hand tip of your size 6 circular needle, knit the 7 stitches from the front needle first. Without turning your work, continue knitting the 7 stitches from the back needle, using the same circular needle tip.
This joins the two layers into one round. Nothing new gets transferred, you’re just knitting them in sequence. It can feel impossible at first because the needles are close together, but once you knit the first few stitches, the fabric opens up and it becomes much easier. After that, you’ll place your markers and arrange the stitches for Magic Loop as instructed, and you’re officially into the body of the fish.
If you’d like, you can always send a photo to [email protected], and we’ll happily walk you through it visually!
Warmly,
Megan
I’m really struggling with this pattern, after redistributing tail stitch how do I end up in the round? I’m totally confused.
Hi Carolyn!
Thank you for writing in! You’re not alone, this is a tricky transition, and it’s totally okay to feel confused here. After you redistribute the tail stitches, you’re not in the round just yet. That happens in the very next step:
You split the tail into two layers (7 stitches on the front needle, 7 on the back needle). Then, using the larger circular needle, you knit across the front 7 stitches, place a marker, and continue knitting across the back 7 stitches. Once you’ve knit all 14 stitches in sequence and placed the end-of-round marker, you are officially joined in the round.
From there, you simply arrange the stitches for Magic Loop and continue knitting in rounds as written. Knitting across both needles in one continuous motion is what closes the circle.
If you’d like, sending a quick photo to [email protected] can really help us point out exactly where things are going sideways. We’re happy to walk you through it step by step!
Warmly,
Megan
Thanks so much, I’ll give it another go!
Hi there. I just started my lucky fish and I am so excited. I’m just having troubles with setting up the body as I am using double pointed needles and not circular needles. Is there anyway you could let me know how to set up the body?
Hi Kathryn!
Thank you so much for writing in, and I’m so glad you’re excited about your Lucky Fish! You can absolutely work the body using double pointed needles only, no circulars required.
After finishing the tail, you’ll still need to separate the tail stitches into two layers (front and back), just as the pattern describes. Start with the right side of the work facing you and the tail stitches all on one needle. Take two empty DPNs and, stitch by stitch, slip the tail stitches alternately: one stitch onto the first DPN (this will be the “front” layer), the next stitch onto the second DPN (the “back” layer), repeating until all stitches are divided evenly. You should end up with 7 stitches on each needle.
Now you’ll join to work in the round: knit across the 7 stitches of the front needle, place a marker, then knit across the 7 stitches of the back needle, and place your unique end-of-round marker at the top of the fish’s spine. From here, simply redistribute those stitches evenly across 3 or 4 DPNs, as you normally would for small-circumference knitting, and continue knitting in the round. Once that’s set up, you’ll knit the next 4 rounds evenly and you’re officially into the body!
If anything feels awkward or unclear as you go, you’re always welcome to email us at [email protected] with a photo, and we’ll be happy to take a look and walk you through it.
Happy Knitting!
Megan
The side fin instructions say to “sew” tail through remaining stitches. Is this different from “drawing through” remaining stitches?
Hi Jo!
Thank you for your question! Yes, in this case “sew the tail through the remaining stitches” means the same thing as “draw the tail through the remaining stitches.” You’ll thread the yarn tail onto a tapestry needle, run it through the live stitches, and then pull snug to close the opening.
Happy knitting!
Megan