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Fundamental Top-Down Pullover
The experience of knitting a sweater in the round is like a natural evolution. Stitch after stitch, round upon round, shapes merge and morph, a jellyfish tamed into a recognizable object that fits!
Our Fundamental Top-Down Pullover traipses through each wonder of its engineering, starting at the neckline, increasing for the yoke, incorporating the sleeves, and binding off at the very bottom. The grand flourish is a pretty spiral of increases around the yoke, but the beauty is in the form-follows-function construction.
We knit up our sweater in our Linen Quill Worsted, a fundamentally lovely blend of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen. Cozy and compelling, it also has the same down-to-earth beauty as a hand-knit sweater!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 55 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoFundamentalTopDownPullover, and #PurlSohoLinenQuillWorsted. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 6 (7, 8, 9) (9, 10, 11, 12) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill Worsted, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is approximately 164 yards/100 grams; approximately 955 (1040, 1185, 1330) (1430, 1575, 1730, 1855) yards required. We used the color Peony Pink.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 6 (4 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 6, 24-inch circular needles
- US 6, 32- or 40-inch circular needles, depending on size you are making
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Fundamental Top-Down Pullover Pattern (Please Note: The Fundamental Top-Down Pullover Pattern is no longer available for purchase. For assistance, please contact us at customerservice@purlsoho.com.)
Gauge
20 stitches and 26 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, using larger needles
Sizes
NOTE: For help deciding which size to knit, please visit our Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size tutorial.
38½ (42½, 46½, 50½) (54½, 58½, 62½, 66½)
To fit actual chest circumference of 30–33 (34–37, 38–41, 42–45) (46–49, 50–53, 54–57, 58–61) inches, with approximately 5–8 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 38½ (42½, 46½, 50½) (54½, 58½, 62½, 66½) inches
- Finished Length From Center Back: 21½ (22¼, 23¾, 25¼) (25½, 26¾, 28¼, 29) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length From Underarm: 17½ (17, 17, 16½) (16½, 16½, 16, 16) inches
Sample: The sweater shown here is size 42½, worn with 6½ inches of ease.
Pattern
Please Note: The Fundamental Top-Down Pullover Pattern is no longer available for purchase. For assistance, please contact us at customerservice@purlsoho.com.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I have some never used Purl Soho Linen Twist and Flax Down from your swath wrap pattern. Would this be usable for this pullover? I have stone gray and heirloom white I think.
Hi Michele,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately Linen Quill (fingering weight) and Flax Down (light worsted/dk weight) are both too thin alone compared to what we used in this pattern, Linen Quill Worsted (worsted weight.) However Flax Down and Linen Quill together could work up to about the same gauge as Linen Quill Worsted! I would recommend working a gauge swatch holding the two yarns together using the US 6 needle and comparing that to the gauge of the pattern. I also think this combination would look great together!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I have just purchased the pattern for the fundamental Top Down Pullover.
I see that wrap and turn short rows are used for shaping.
Might I successfully use German Short rows>
Any hints or advice?
Thank you for your help.
Hi Denise,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly use German Short Rows instead of the Wrap and Turn Short Rows! If you watch our German Short Rows tutorial we will show you how to adapt them for Wrap + Turn instructions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’ve just started knitting this pattern in size 62 1/2. The first increase round is under “Shape Yoke.” And then there are special instructions for size 62 1/2 Only, with another Increase Round instruction.
1. Is this round in addition to the rounds under “Shape Yoke” or does it replace those rounds?
2. Those instructions say [LLI, [knit to next marker, sm 3 times] 8 times . . . Does that mean I do “[knit to next marker, sm 3 times] 24 times?
I hope my questions are clear.
Thank you for your help,
Amy
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! In the SHAPE YOKE section, you will work all the instructions in that first section (the increase round, through switching to the larger needles, and knitting 3 rounds even); then you will skip ahead to the “Size 62½ Only” directions and work from there. After you’ve completed that round, you’ll move on to the ALL SIZES section.
For the increase round you mentioned in your second question, the instructions are:
[LLI, (knit to next marker, sm) 3 times] 8 times, knit to end of round.
You’ll notice that there are two sets of brackets in the instruction, the [ ] that enclose the entire instruction and the ( ) that enclose the “knit to next marker, sm” instruction. For clairty, the number just outside a given bracket is the number of times you are being asked to repeat that particular bracketed section. The pattern is asking you to repeat everything within the [ ] brackets 8 times total, and to repeat the (knit to next marker, sm) instruction 3 times. So, you are correct: in total, you will work the (knit to next marker, sm) a total of 24 times by the end of that increase round, making sure to work the LLI at the appropriate times as well.
I hope this helps clear things up, but if you have more questions you can always email us at [email protected] for additional help!
All the best,
Kelsey
Thank you very much, Kelsey. This is very helpful.
Hi
I’m knitting this sweater (in your great purl soho pink pop!) and am wondering why the short rows are necessary at the bottom of the sweater?
Thanks!
Katie
Hi Katie,
Thanks for writing in! The short rows add shaping around the body of the sweater, they aren’t completely necessary but they add a great shape!
All the best,
Gianna
Thank you! Short rows give me hives, but your video tutorial is excellent, so I will give it a go when I get to the body shaping. Thanks again
Katie
Hi, this a lovely sweater and it’s knitting up quite nicely. I just really need to know if there’s been an update on the pattern. The problem I’m having is with the sleeve division segment. Thanks! Robin
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! We have not made any adjustments to this pattern since publishing so it should work as written. What are the problems you are encountering with the sleeve divisions?
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
After finishing w/ the short rows, the next segment is separating the sleeves from the body. And the pattern reads knit 107 (112,120, 131) (xxx,xxx,xxx), place previous 62 (64,68,75) (xxx,xxx,xxx) stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn. The problem the only previous stitches are the ones I’ve knitted, so pulled what I needed and I end up working left to right as opposed to right to left. When I start back in the correct order (that sounded better in my head), I have a stretch of yarn connecting right to left. From other sweaters I’ve done after the first separation is when the instructions are do backward loop (really like the cable c/o, btw. Nice touch w/ that.) c/o x amount of stitches then knit to next stitches needed for separating sleeves again. Repeat. But the instructions for the cable c/o are after all the sleeve separating.
This has been a really fun knit, up to this point and I just feel as if I’m really missing something. Thanks for the help.
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you ran into trouble when you tried to “place previous Xsts on stitch holder or scrap yarn”; the “previous Xsts” that are mentioned refer to the stitches that you’ve just finished knitting of the 107 (112, 120, 131). For example, if you’re working the smallest size, then the joining row will go as follows:
K107, count back 62 stitches from the 107 you’ve just worked and place these onto stitch holders or scrap yarn for Right Sleeve; k152, count back 62 stitches from the 152 you’ve just worked and place these onto stitch holders or scrap yarn for Left Sleeve; knit to end of round. [180 total stitches remain for Body; 90 stitches each for Front and Back].
This way, you won’t end up with that stretch of yarn connecting the right and left that you currently have. You should be able to still work around the sweater in the same direction for this entire joining round.
I hope this helps, and please feel free to reach out to us at [email protected] if you have any other questions! Our customer service team would be happy to help you with any questions you have!
Warmly,
Kelsey
I was running into the same problem. I’ve never run into this instruction before so totally misunderstood. This is also the reason I was combining divide instructions w/cast on instructions. I must have done it this way 20 times on other projects. Thanks for asking the question Kelsey.
Thank you.
Is there short row shaping in your fundamental top down pull over?
link: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2021/03/27/fundamental-top-down-pullover/
Hi Marilyn,
Thanks for reaching out! There is some short row shaping in the Fundamental Top-Down Pullover. Specifically, this pattern uses wrap + turn short rows. If this style of short row is daunting in any way, I wanted to let you know that the pattern includes detailed instructions, and that we also offer a wonderful short row tutorial on our website, right here!
All the best,
Lili
Would I be able to use the cricket yarn with this pattern?
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for reaching out. I wouldn’t recommend using Cricket for this pattern, since Cricket is DK weight, whereas this pattern was designed for a worsted weight yarn. Instead, I’d recommend using For Better or Worsted (https://www.purlsoho.com/for-better-or-worsted.html), which is essentially the same yarn as Cricket, just in a worsted weight! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
I’d like to make this sweater, but the “For Better or Worsted” yarn, while quite beautiful, is a bit too expensive for me. I can’t seem to find any of your other yarns that would work – can you make a suggestion for a similar gauge yarn among your sale yarns, since the linen quill worsted is no longer? Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
Hi Debby,
Absolutely! This sweater was designed in a worsted weight yarn, so many of our other worsted weight yarns would be a great choice. In particular, Yonder would be lovely! It has very similar qualities to Linen Quill Worsted since it’s also made with wool and alpaca fibers, and you’ll definitely be able to match the gauge. Just be sure to swatch beforehand so you’re able to determine the best needle size to use!
All the best,
Lili
Oops, our replies crossed – sorry! Is Yonder a soft yarn? It looks like it might be somewhat itchy, which could be problematic for me. Another suggestion with similar gauge? Thanks!
Hi Debby,
Yonder will likely be slightly itchy due to the highland wool content. Another idea would be to use Knitting Yarn, which is technically a DK weight yarn, but you should still easily me able to knit it at the gauge of the pattern. Knitting Yarn is 100% merino wool, so it won’t itch!
In answer to the question in your other comment, doubling Linen Quill would work! However, that yarn will also likely cause itchiness since it also contains highland wool.
All the best,
Lili
Lili, thank you so much – Knitting Yarn looks perfect. One final (hopefully) question: if I want to make the sweater in the second size, but make it about two inches longer, how much yarn should I buy, given that the yardage is a bit different? Many thanks again!
You’re very welcome! I think 6 skeins of Knitting Yarn would be perfect. The second size would take 6 skeins, and one extra skein will be enough to make it longer.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much!
A second thought: would linen quill doubled work?
Hi,
I’m going to start the Fundamental Top Down pullover. If I go one extra stitch to use the German short rows instead of the w&t, do I need to add extra stitches?
Thanks,
Hi Faye!
Thank you for your question! When substituting GSRs for W+Ts, you will not need to add any stitches, you will just knit one extra stitch (which would be the wrapped stitch) before turning to make your doublestitch.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Thanks, Margaret.
I’m at the cast on for underarms and have cable cast on the 7 stitches required.
What does pm mean.
Can’t find the abbreviation anywhere
Hi Madeleine,
Thanks for reaching out! The abbreviation “pm” means “place marker.”
All the best,
Lili
I’m at the cast on for underarms, knitting the smallest size. I cable casted- on 3 stitches, pm, and 3 more stitches, turned the work and repeated the cable cast on as written. If I now knit to the end of the round, I’ll knit past the other underarm, but there’s nothing about adding cast on stitches for that arm. Is that right? Or should I repeat the process for the second underarm? Thanks!
Hi Beth,
Thanks for writing in, and I think I can see where the confusion is coming from! The pattern actually has you repeat the bracketed instructions 2 times, and the second time you work through these instructions is when you do the cable cast-on for the second sleeve.
Cast-On Round: [Knit to next set of on-hold stitches, turn work so wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 3 (5, 6, 7) (7, 7, 8, 9) stitches, pm, cable cast on 3 (5, 6, 7) (7, 7, 8, 9) stitches, turn work so right side is facing you] 2 times, knit to end of round. [192 (212, 232, 252) (272, 292, 312, 332) stitches]
Let me know if this makes more sense now!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!
My wife really likes this pattern and I have been wanting to make another sweater for her; however, the last sweater I knit was DK weight very similar in gauge (albeit a more formfitting pattern) and she says it is too warm to wear except for on the coldest of days. This sweater pattern is a bit more open, which would obviously help, but could I modify this pattern using a lighter weight yarn and larger needle to get the same look but make it a little cooler? And would you have a yarn recommendation if that’s possible? Thanks!
Hi AJ,
Thank you for your question! I live in a warm climate so definitely understand the need for a lighter pullover! Instead of modifying the pattern, I would recommend going with a cotton or thinner-weight yarn to help your pullover really breathe! Our Morning yarn which is 75% organically grown cotton and 25% yak is great for spring and summer months but if you would still like to use wool but something not as toasty, I would recommend Wigeon as it’s sport weight merino rather than worsted! One thing to keep in mind is that you will still want to gauge swatch just to be sure you are able to meet gauge with the yarn alternatives. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thanks! Follow-up question: if my swatch is smaller than the suggested gauge, do I just knit a size one or two sizes bigger? Alternatively, assuming my swatch is smaller, how do I know which size to make?
Hi A.J.! You are very welcome! If your swatch is smaller than the suggested gauge, you will want to go up a needle size or two rather than modifying the pattern or changing the size you are knitting. You can check out a further in-depth tutorial here. I always find it helpful when I need to change needle sizes!
Would June Worsted work for this sweater? I have 6 skeins of it, which looks like it should be enough for the first size. What do you think?
Hi Debby,
June Worsted would work wonderfully for this pattern and that is correct! You will need a total of 6 skeins for the smallest size.
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thank you so much!
I have just finished the sweater, and it looks wonderful! However, after trying it on I feel as if I would prefer it to be a few inches longer. I do have enough yarn left over for this, but I have already completed the wrap and turn section. Would it be possible to just add the length after the wrap and turn is completed, or would I have to rip it back to just before the wrap and turn and add the length there? I’m not sure if the shaping will be off. Thanks!
Hi Debby!
Thank you for writing in! So glad you love the sweater! To keep the shaping correct, it’s best to add length before the wrap & turn section, which does mean ripping back to the “work even” portion. That’s where the body length is meant to be adjusted. A good tip is to measure a sweater you like from underarm to hem to decide how much length to add. I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Megan
As an update, I decided to simply rip back to just before the wrap and turn, and added two inches to the sweater before the shaping. It came out beautifully!
Hi Debby!
Thank you for the update! We’re so happy to hear it worked out and that you love the finished sweater!
Warmly,
Megan
I liked this so much that I want to make another one! I have 7 skeins of daily wool worsted. Would that work with this pattern in the smallest size, but making it an inch or two longer?
Hi Debby,
Thank you so much for reaching out! I’m so glad to hear you loved the Fundamental Top-Down Pullover enough to be considering making another!
Daily Wool Worsted would knit up to gauge (its listed at 4.75-5 sts/inch and the pattern calls for 5 sts/inch), so you would end up with a pullover with a similar size unless you knit for longer than the pattern instructs in the body.
The only other things I might suggest you consider are the fiber content and yarn construction. Both are plied yarns, so we’ve got construction down! The Linen Quill Worsted featured linen and alpaca which provided drape and a soft halo, respectively. You can expect to see Daily Wool Worsted to have a little more stitch memory and elasticity. It would have a little less drape (superwash yarn tends to have a little more drape than untreated yarn) and halo, but would be a great choice!
I would always recommend knitting (and blocking) a gauge swatch (especially when substituting yarns). This will help ensure you can meet the gauge listed in the pattern, and that you like the look and feel of the resulting fabric.
I hope this helps, and please feel free to reach out with any other questions you might have!
Happy knitting,
Hills
Thanks so much. I actually made it in June Worsted, and did find that, unlike the description on line, it did not become softer with wash. It actually got stiffer! I love the fit, but it is still a bit stiff, which I am hoping will soften with wear. I’ve done a swatch of the Daily Wool, and it’s a bit closer to 19/4″, and I see what you mean about it being less drapey. I also have a stash of Knitting Yarn which seems to be a bit closer to gauge and a bit lighter in feel, so I might go with that. I am trying to use up yarn on hand before buying more, but I may just end up getting the linen quill. Is there any other yarn you can suggest that might drape similarly?
Edit: Oh, oops, I see you no longer carry linen quill worsted! What might be a good substitute with similar drape!
Hi Debby,
Thanks so much for your reply. I am so sorry to hear your June Worsted didn’t soften upon wash…please feel free to email us at [email protected] for more troubleshooting and options.
For the closest gauge and fiber component match, I would suggest either Hedgerow or Plein Air. Hedgerow boasts 93% merino, 3.5% cashmere, 3.5% mulberry silk and is woolen spun, while Plein Air features 67% merino wool and 33% organically grown cotton, and is plied. Both should work up to 5 stitches per inch and both have both a woolen and plant component which would maintain both the drape and memory of the original yarn. I would likely recommend Plein Air as it’s construction is similar to the initial Line Quill Worsted plied nature.
I hope this helps, and please feel free to reach back out with any other questions you might have!
Happy knitting,
Hills
Oh, I actually have some Plein Air – I will try swatching it and see how it feels. I thought the gauge was a bit different (21/4″?) but I will check it out – maybe knitting it a bit looser will make it hang more softly as well? Or I can stick with the Knitting Yarn. I’ve looked at the other similar top down pattern that is written for Plein Air, but I like the styling of this one a bit better around the neck. Thanks as always for you help!
Hi Debby,
Thanks so much for your reply! I am so glad to see you have some to swatch up… and we’re always happy to help!
It may be possible to achieve the gauge of 5 sts/inch instead of 5.25 on larger needles, but if you find that to be tricky… please feel free to reach back out here or via email ([email protected]) and we can help brainstorm some other options!
Typically, for every full stitch added per inch, you might expect to see around a 10% increase in size of the finished garment. Given that this is 1/4 stitch off, this percentage would go down… You may see something like a .25% increase in size… And if you’re able to achieve 5 sts/inch…then you’ll see no difference in size!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
Hills
Interestingly, when I knit the Plein Air on size 6 needles I get 19 sts/4″ and about 26 1/2 rows/4″. I really like the way the fabric feels at this gauge, so I don’t think I’d want to go down a needle size. The one I made in June Worsted actually came out a bit bigger than the smallest size measures, and I really like it that way. The Plein Air is thinner and softer so will drape more. Do you think it will come out somewhere between the first and second sizes if I knit it to the first size numbers? That would fit me perfectly I think. Sorry for so many questions!
Hi Debby,
Thank you so much for your reply with your swatching results! Very helpful. I think your reasoning is sound here. You’ll probably expect to see a garment about 10% larger. I think it will measure up to just under a size 2 if you work a size 1 at this gauge, but I can’t fully guarantee the results…
I do hope this works well for you. (No need to apologize! I want nothing more than to help make sure your project knits up exactly as you’re envisioning it…). We’re always here and happy to help if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Hills
Thanks so much. And just to clarify, you mean about 10% LARGER, right? So close to a size 2 measurement, which would be great. I always want bugger rather than tighter!
Oh no! My goodness, I’m so sorry for that typo… Yes, larger! Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I’ll edit the old post so it doesn’t cause any confusion.
Happy knitting, Debby!