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Simple Tee
An easy-to-knit cotton and linen tee soft enough for a hammock nap… Our Simple Tee knitting pattern is brimming with laid-back fun! Cast on with our new June Worsted yarn, a summer-ready, plant-based yarn that somehow looks and knits like wool but feels breezy, cool, and light.
A top-down raglan sweater with just a bit of short-row shaping at the back neck, the Simple Tee is a cinch to knit, all in stockinette stitch and nothing to slow you down. The effortless rolled edges are neat yet unfussy, as if you cut the sleeves, collar, and hem off your favorite oversized sweatshirt and you love it even more than before!
Joyful to knit and a delight to wear, June Worsted is a plush worsted-weight yarn that’s cool enough to keep wearing as the days lengthen. Made with 70% organically grown cotton and 30% Belgian linen, this super endearing yarn has a slightly earthy character, and after a machine wash and dry, the already soft fabric gets even softer, taking on a gently brushed, lived-in look that will get better and better every summer!
June Worsted comes in generous 100-gram “peanut” balls and a palette inspired by the very best of early summer. Greenfinch Yellow glows like fireflies rising at dusk, while Heirloom White is as fresh as linens drying on the line… And there are 15 more colors to choose from, including rich jewel tones and warm, sun-kissed shades.
The Simple Tee is that rare kind of knit: easy, satisfying, and so cute you’ll wear it straight off the needles and all summer long. With colors this beautiful and a yarn that gets better with every wear, one tee may not be enough… You might find yourself casting on another the moment you bind off!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 55 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Pattern designed and written by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Story written by Andrea Lotz for Purl Soho.
Materials
- 5 (6, 7, 7, 8) (9, 9, 10, 11) balls of Purl Soho’s June Worsted, 70% organically grown cotton and 30% linen. Each ball of this worsted/aran-weight yarn is 164 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 820 (930, 1010, 1140, 1250) (1360, 1475, 1610, 1705) yards required. We used the colors Greenfinch Yellow and Heirloom White.
- US 6 (4 mm), 16-inch circular knitting needles
- US 6, 32- or 40-inch circular knitting needles, depending on size you are making
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 16-inch circular knitting needles
- US 7, 32- or 40-inch circular knitting needles, depending on size you are making
- A set of US 7 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Simple Tee Pattern PDF
NOTE If you want to use Magic Loop, you won’t need the 16-inch circular or double pointed needles listed above… Just stick with the 32- or 40-inch ones!
GAUGE
19 stitches and 27 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, on larger needles
SIZES
NOTE: For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
38¾ (43, 47¼, 51¼, 55½) (59¾, 64, 68¼, 72½)
To fit actual chest circumference of 30-34 (34-38, 38-42, 42-46, 46-50) (50-54, 54-58, 58-62, 62-66) inches, with 5–9 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 38¾ (43, 47¼, 51¼, 55½) (59¾, 64, 68¼, 72½) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 20 (20½, 20¾, 21, 21¼) (21½, 22, 22½, 23) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 12½ (12, 12, 11½, 11) (10¾, 10½, 10¼, 10¼) inches, unrolled
- Finished Sleeve Length from Underarm to Cuff: 7 (7, 7, 7¾, 8) (8½, 8½, 9, 9) inches
Samples: The Greenfinch Yellow sweater shown here is size 38¾, worn with 5¾ inches of ease, and the Heirloom White sweater is size 43.
PATTERN
The Simple Tee Pattern is available as a PDF.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Learn About June Worsted + All Our Beautiful Yarns
This project is the perfect mix of cool, cozy, and soft, thanks to our June Worsted yarn! Made with a mix of organically-grown cotton and Belgian linen, this worsted-weight yarn has the wonderfully soft and knit-able feeling of an animal-fiber yarn, but rest assured, it also has the cooling, vegan, and anti-allergen properties of a plant-based yarn. It’s also super beautiful, incredibly endearing, and machine washable, too… You will love it for everything from towels to garments to blankets!
More Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) June Worsted knitting patterns and cast on!
More Worsted/Aran-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of worsted/aran-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial, our Yarn Substitution article, and our Complete Guide To Yarn for lots of helpful information.
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cotton yarn (What helps cotton keep its cool? Learn all about this soft, natural fiber in our guide to cotton yarn!)
- Shop linen yarn
- Shop plant-based yarn
- Shop machine washable yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Can I make this a long sleeve sweater?
Hi Jane,
Absolutely, that’s a great idea! All you need to do is keep knitting the sleeves until they’re as long as you want. You may also want to add some decrease rows along the way so that the sleeves taper towards the wrists. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Please send me the download for the simple tee pattern
Thx
Hi Carole-Beth,
We’re glad you’re interested in this pattern! Just follow this link to purchase the Simple Tee pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Can you estimate how much more yarn would be needed for a long sleeved version?
Hi Marjorie,
Thanks for writing in! You’ll likely only need 1 more skein of June Worsted to make longer sleeves, but you may need 2 for the larger sizes!
All the best,
Lili
Can you please confirm that the off white sample shown in the pattern pdf is “Heirloom white” June Worsted? Many thanks
Hi Lisa,
Yes! We used the colors Greenfinch Yellow and Heirloom White for our samples of this pattern!
All the best,
Lili
hi – could you please provide some guidance on making this with the sleeves a bit shorter? is it as simple as just ending the sleeves sooner or are there implications for shaping? thanks!
Hi B,
Thanks for writing in! You already have the right idea–all you need to do is bind off the sleeve earlier. Depending on how short/long you want them to be, that may mean working any shaping that’s already written in the pattern, but just up until you bind off.
All the best,
Lili
I have a question about getting started. Directions indicate one should use 32- or 40-inch circulars “depending on size you are making.” I am making a size 43; which length circular should I use?
Thanks.
Anne
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing in! Since you’re making size 43, you can use either 32- or 40-inch needles. The finished circumference of your project will be 43 inches, so that’s enough to fit around either needle length, and the stitches won’t be all that cramped on 32-inch needles. The choice is really up to you for that size in particular!
All the best,
Lili
I’m stuck on a gauge problem. I knit a gauge swatch on US #7 needles and have 19 stitches per 4 inches. However, I only get 23 stitches per row/round. How do I compensate for this discrepancy? Thank you for your advice.
Hi Angela,
Could you please let us know if you blocked your swatch as well? This could help us better visualize the needle size adjustment you need to make.
We will keep an eye out for your reply!
All the best,
Gavriella
Would you kindly let me know which techniques will be used? For example, is it a provisional cast on or regular cast one? Same for the bind off? I’m an advanced beginner and want to be ready to prepare for the challenges in advance. Many thanks
Hi Claudia,
Thank you for asking! For this pattern you will use a long tail cast on, a traditional bind off, german short rows and make 1 left and right increases. We’re also always happy to help walk you through any skills you may be unfamiliar with so please don’t hesitate to reach out to us!
All the best,
Gavriella
I am knitting the simple tee in size 43. On page 4 of the directions “size 43 only” there are no directions for body increases. The body stitch increases from 48 to 92 in 21 rounds. The raglan increases from 16 to 60 in 21 rounds. I am having difficulty calculating the number of rounds to reach total stitch count of 304. Than you for your help. Mary Jean
Hi Mary Jean,
Thanks for writing in! The stitch count for the body is increased at the raglan seams, just like for the sleeves! On the Raglan Increase Round, you will be working one increase on either side of each stitch marker, so 8 increases in total. 2 of these will increase the stitch count for the Right Sleeve, 2 will increase the Left Sleeve, 2 will increase the Front Body, and 2 the Back Body.
For size 43, you’ll be beginning with 128 stitches in total. Then you work 22 total Raglan Increase Rounds (the initial one, then 20 more times, and then once more after that), increasing by 176 stitches overall. That will bring your total stitch count to 304!
Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much.
Mary Jean
Hi! I just started the simple T pattern and need clarification on the shaping section and the correct order for the make double stitch. I’ve got the m1r and m1l down, then pattern says “2 times, then make double stitch. Then it gives stitch counts for right and left sleeve.
Do I m1r, stitch 2, m1l, make de and knit to next marker to repeat? Sorry if I’m making it too complicated.
Hi Brenda,
Happy to help clarify! You begin Short Row 1 by knitting to 1 stitch before the first raglan marker, and then you work the increase stitches on either side of that first marker. Then, you do the same thing again by knitting to 1 stitch before the second raglan marker and working the increase stitches on either side of that second marker. After that, you just knit 2 stitches and create the double stitch!
Let me know if that makes more sense now!
All the best,
Lili
Hello Lili,
I’m puzzled by how to complete Short Row 1. I made the double stitch, but there are no instructions about completing the round.
I feel as though I should complete Row 1 before starting Row 2.
Am I supposed to go right into purling Short Row 2?
Hi Meryll,
Short Row 1 ends right after you create the double stitch! After that you’ll be ready to begin working Short Row 2. Each short row is “short,” meaning that it does not extend all the way around to the end-of-round marker!
All the best,
Lili
Can I knit this without doing the German short rows?
Hi Lindy,
You can definitely use warp and turn short rows instead if you’d like. You can also skip them altogether if you’d prefer but you will want to make sure you work in the increases that are included in the short row sections.
I hope this helps and happy making!
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you Lili. I was afraid that was a really dumb question, and I was right. I just didn’t want to continue without making sure I was doing the right thing. I’ve ripped out way too many rows.
I appreciate your help!
Meryll
Hello,
Is it possible that on short rows on the wrong side m1R and m1L are exchanged?
Thank you
Hi Ana,
Thank you for writing in! You will always work the M1R before the marker and the M1L after the marker to be sure your increases are all orientated correctly along your raglan. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I too am struggling with short row 1. I don’t repeat; just do twice, right? I have mastered the magic loop but this is my first time with this type of increase and the german short row technique. Maybe it will make more sense when I just do it but when knitting in the round how do I have a wrong side? Sorry to ask dumb questions but I continue to educate myself via Youtube !
Hi Ginny,
No worries, I’m here to help! Yes, on Short Row 1, you just do the bracketed segment ([Knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1R, k1, slip marker (sm), k1, m1L]) two times before moving onto the next instruction in that row.
In answer to your other question, you’ll briefly be working flat for the short rows, so you will have right and wrong side rows. All the odd short rows are right side rows, and all the even numbered rows are wrong side rows, alternating just like regular flat knitting!
We have a wonderful tutorial on German short rows which should provide a useful demonstration of how they work. I’m also happy to chat more about this technique over Zoom, so if you’re interred in that, feel free to book a 1-On-1 Help appointment!
All the best,
Lili
I just started and finished short rows 1 & 2. My increases are correct for the back & sleeves but not the front. I’m knitting the small. The pattern says I should have 40 stitches front & back but have 40 back & 38 front. 98 total stitches when I should have 100. This is my second try, what am I missing?
Hi Sherry,
Thanks for reaching out about this! It sounds like you may just have missed a few increases along the way, but this should be very easy to fix without having to undo your work. All you need to do is work one more increase round, but only work increases in the front section of stitches. Once you’ve done that, your stitch count will be correct all around!
All the best,
Lili
Why does it seem like I’m only doing half of the raglan with the short rows. I’m working them as the pattern says but the front isn’t increasing, just short rows on the back.
Hi Sherry,
That’s a great observation! You will only increase on one side of the yoke on each short row. On Short Row 1 and all the other odd-numbered rows, you increase only at the first two stitch markers, and on Short Row 2 and the other even rows, you increase only at the other two stitch markers. Over the course of two short rows though, you’ll have completed all 8 raglan increases at every stitch marker!
All the best,
Lili
Thank-you for the help, I have it figured out and am now below the under arms working on the body! It’s looking great!
Thank-you for the help, I have it figured out and am now below the under arms working on the body! It’s looking great!
Is there a way to modify the pattern so that the sweater has a lower neck in the front?
Hi Debby,
Great question! The best way to achieve a lower neckline in this pattern is to work more short rows. I would recommend working the double stitches closer together (specifically, k1 after you resolve the previous double stitch instead of k2) so that you get a deeper slope!
The other thing you’ll need to keep in mind when making this sort of change is your overall stitch count. Since you’ll be working more raglan increases during the additional short rows, you’ll need to work fewer full increase rounds after completing the short rows. I’d recommend just counting your stitches every once in a while to make sure you end up with the correct stitch count for the yoke before moving ahead in the pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much, Lili. That sounds a bit complicated – I don’t suppose you could write out the instructions for those of us who prefer a more rounded neckline – I am thinking of something rounded to probably just below the collarbone? I am not sure I understand the construction well enough to be able to calculate the changes myself, but I love all the other aspects of the sweater!
Hi Debby,
I’m afraid that rewriting this pattern is out of our wheelhouse at the moment, but I’m happy to help out if you decide to give this modification a try! I always recommend trying things out on a swatch beforehand, so that could be a good way for you to get started and so that you can better visualize how the constructions/short row shaping works.
All the best,
Lili
I am tall and will want to make the sweater longer. I will be knitting a size 47 1/4. I think I will want to add 2″ to the length. How many more skeins should I buy?
Thank you!
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for writing in, and I can absolutely help you with that! Size 47 1/4 only requires a small amount of the 7th skein, so you should be able to add 2 inches without buying extra yarn. In case you want to get an 8th skein to be extra safe though, I wanted to let you know that we accept returns so you can send any unused skeins back to us for store credit!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili!
Hi. I’m excited to get started on this sweater. Am I right that I can avoid magic loop and dpns for the sleeves if I use a 10 inch circular? Thanks!
Hi Nancy,
Yep, you can definitely use 10-inch circulars for the sleeves! The smallest circumference of the smallest size sleeve is 12 inches, so the stitches will definitely fit around 10-inch needles. You can even use 16-inch needles for sizes 55 1/2 and up!
All the best,
Lili
Hi. I’m confused about the section on dividing for the sleeves. I’ve only ever done this by casting on for the underarms in the same round as dividing. I’m not sure how to put the first 60 stitches on hold and then keep on knitting in the divide round. Do I just use the working yarn on the right needle that is now to the right of the held stitches and bring it around them to knit the unworked front stitches? thank you.
Hi Nancy,
That is a great question! So in this section, you are knitting as you are putting the sleeve stitches on hold meaning your working yarn is moving along the round with you. So you are first knitting the sleeve stitches and then moving those same just worked stitches onto a holder. That way your working yarn is at the front of your yoke ready to knit forward. You will then repeat the same steps for the other sleeve. I hope this helps but please let us know if you need further explantation and we’d be happy to help get you back on track another way.
All the best,
Gavriella
I just finished my simple tee, and I LOVE it! Now I’m wondering about making it in a warmer fiber–I also love Note. I know I’d need to do some adjusting for the difference in gauge after swatching, but I’m curious if you think once I adjust for that, it would be a good yarn choice in terms of structure/drape. What do you think? Thanks!
Hi Nancy,
Note would work perfectly for this pattern. Yes, as long as you are able to meet gauge, you will end up with a nice cozy sweater with the perfect drape.
Happy knitting!
Gavriella
Hi
I’m about to start my project and wondering about doing purl stitches- from what I understand if you are knitting the stockinette stitch on circular needles every row will be a knit row – what am I missing here?
Hi Soraya,
Thanks for asking! In order to knit stockinette flat, you must purl on the wrong side of your fabric and knit on the right side. You will need to purl at the beginning of this pattern in order to work the short row shaping but other than that you will be working stockinette in the round (knitting all stitches) for the majority of the project.
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi Gabriella.
Thanks for your response. I’m still not clear. You start off the neckband knitting in the round for 2 inches. For this part you would be knitting all the stitches, right? You then continue to the yoke and place all the markers. At what point do you start knitting flat?
No worries at all! You will begin working flat for a short while in the SHAPE NECKLINE + YOKE section. So when the instructions switch from Rounds to Rows, you will be working flat.
Hi I just finished the sleeves and the T fits overall, but I want to make it longer. How do I pick up stitches in the body now that I’ve bound off? Is there a tutorial? I don’t want a midriff T shirt! Thank you
Hi Krista,
Wonderful question! You can pick up and knit into every bound off stitch, then join for working in the round and continue knitting until you’re happy with the length, then bind off again. Our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial shows you right at the top of the page how to pick up into a horizontal edge, which applies here. You should know that this route will leave you with a visible line along the pick-up round, even on the right side of the work. This could read like a hemline and maybe won’t bother you, but if you think it will, another option is to undo your bind-off round and put the live stitches back onto your needles so you can just keep knitting and bind off when you’re ready.
I hope this helps you get your Simple Tee right where you want it. It’s a wonderful sweater (I wear mine all the time!)… Please let us know how it goes!
Best,
Whitney
Hi,
Can I make this using Nigh Aran?
Gaby
Hi Gaby!
Thank you for your question! Yes, you can absolutely make this using Nigh Aran. What a wonderfully cozy version that will be! I’d definitely recommend knitting a quick gauge swatch first to make sure your measurements line up with the pattern and that you love the fabric you’re getting.
Happy knitting!
Megan
Hi! Can you recommend a different yarn with wool or a light-weight blend that may be easier to work with for a beginner-intermediate knitter? I plan to make this but I’ve never worked with cotton. Would love to purchase your yarn right now during your sale! Thanks.
Hi Alex!
Thank you for writing in! If you’d prefer to work with a wool or wool blend instead of cotton, that’s a great idea—those fibers tend to have a bit more elasticity and can feel easier to handle, especially for a beginner-intermediate knitter.
Two lovely options you might consider are Yonder (an alpaca and highland wool blend with a soft, rustic feel) or Daily Wool Worsted, which is smooth, forgiving, and very easy to knit with. Daily Wool is also superwash, so it’s machine washable, which can be a nice bonus!
If you go with a different yarn, just be sure to knit a gauge swatch and adjust your needle size as needed to match the pattern’s gauge. That will help ensure your finished piece comes out the right size.
Happy knitting!
Megan