Julie Hoover For Purl Soho: Arie
As the sun warms the earth, sprouts grow bold, unfurling into dramatic wide-leafed hostas, bright happy tulips, and beautifully complex ferns. Julie Hoover’s Arie takes a cue from new life, with a simple pleat at the neckline that unfolds and billows, transforming this comfortable top into a work of natural beauty.
You make the Arie in two pieces from the bottom up, working the fold into the bottom of the V before shaping the neckline and armholes. Once seamed and finished, the shape of the sleeves curves beautifully down the shoulders and around the arms. A split hem that dips a bit lower in the back and a graceful, seed stitch V-neck complete the thoughtful details.
For this pattern you can choose either Linen Quill (above) or Cattail Silk (below), two of our favorite yarns for natural charm. Linen Quill combines fine wool, alpaca, and linen into a yarn that is wonderfully rustic, but still soft. Available in an astounding range of colors, Linen Quill creates a lightweight garment, a bit cozier and squishier than the silk. It’s perfect as a cold-weather layer or on its own when the evening air or sea breeze might call for a bit of warmth.
Cattail Silk is a 100% silk yarn that has an earthy texture and soft shine, lending it a casual elegance that’s perfect for any occasion. It leads to a light and airy Arie with a gorgeous drape, and will keep you cool on a summer’s day. Whichever yarn you choose, you’ll love knitting and wearing this down-to-earth beauty!
Designed for Purl Soho by Julie Hoover. Currently based in Ann Arbor, Michigan, Julie Hoover designs knitwear and makes yarn, for both her own personal label and others. Her work reflects a lifelong passion for clothing and textiles, and her view that knitting is a beautiful way of creating timeless fashion, a thoughtful mix of quality and creativity, intention and care.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoArie, #PurlSohoLinenQuill and #PurlSohoCattailSilk. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cattail Silk, 100% silk. Each skein is 618 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 970 (1080, 1220, 1360, 1490) (1685, 1850, 2045, 2220) yards required. We used the color Thin Cloud Gray.
OR
- 2 (3, 3, 3, 4) (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 875 (985, 1115, 1240, 1355) (1535, 1690, 1865, 2025) yards required. We used the color Fresh Pickle.
You’ll also need…
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 24-inch circular needles
- Two US 3 double pointed needles
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- An Arie Pattern
GAUGE
25 stitches and 38 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
NOTE: For help deciding which size to knit, please visit our Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size tutorial.
39¾ (43½, 47¼, 51¼, 55) (59, 62¾, 66½, 70½)
To fit actual chest circumference of 29–33 (33–37, 37–41, 41–45, 45–49) (49–53, 53–57, 57–61, 61–63) inches, with approximately 6–10 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 39¾ (43½, 47¼, 51¼, 55) (59, 62¾, 66½, 70½) inches
- Finished Hip Circumference: 43¼ (47¼, 51, 55, 58¾) (62½, 66½, 70¼, 74) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder To Bottom Edge: 24¾ (25¼, 26¼, 27, 27½) (29, 30, 31¼, 32) inches
Samples: The sweaters pictured here are size 43½, worn with 9½ inches of ease.
PATTERN
The Arie Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
how many pages in this pattern? and what level of knitting is this pattern?
Hi Jackie,
Thank you for your question! This pattern is nine pages long (including photos) and we think this pattern is accessible for anyone familiar with garment design, shaping via increases and binding off, and putting stitches on hold with stitch markers. I encourage you to give it a try, and we are always able to help with our tutorials page, via email at customerservice@purlsoho.com, and via zoom with our 1-on-1 zoom chats!
I hope this helps, and we are here if you have any questions!
All the best,
Margaret
How much yarn will I need to make this sweater
Hi Sharon!
Thank you for your question! You can find this information for any of our patterns under “Materials” and “Sizes” sections of the pattern story page, however I am happy to include that information for you here too! For sizes 39¾ (43½, 47¼, 51¼, 55) (59, 62¾, 66½, 70½) to fit actual chest circumference of 29–33 (33–37, 37–41, 41–45, 45–49) (49–53, 53–57, 57–61, 61–63) inches, with approximately 6–10 inches of ease, you will need either 2 (3, 3, 3, 4) (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins of Linen Quill or 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 4, 4) skeins of Cattail Silk.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Do you think adapting this to knit in the round will compromise the design significantly?
Hi Fiona,
Thanks for reaching out. Knitting Arie in the round won’t change very much about the design, but the neckline and sleeves would need to be worked flat, as well as the split hem detail if you choose to include it!
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
All the best,
Carly
Hello, I have a question about “Shape Armholes” for the back. “Working in established pattern with 3-stitch border, repeat Armhole Increase Row every 6th row 7 more times. [140 (152, 164, 176, 188) (200, 212, 224, 236) stitches]”. When it says “repeat Armhole Increase Row every 6th row”, does that count right side and wrong side rows? So the next increase row would be done on the third right side row after the increase row? Or should the next increase row be the 6th right side row after the increase? Thanks.
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! The increase rows will only be worked on the right side of the fabric. After the first increase row, you will be starting the repeat on a wrong side row (Row 2) and then alternating between rows 1 and 2 until the 6th row, which is where you work your increase on the right side again.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Thanks Carly. So I also count the wrong side rows when counting 6 rows until the next increase on the right side, and so on. Got it. Thank you!
You are very welcome, Jennifer! And yes, that is correct. Happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
I am planning to knit this sweater and trying to decide what size to make. My question is, are 6-10 inches of ease an unusually large amount of ease for a pattern?
thanks
Jane
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! The positive ease range for this sweater was designed to be between 6-10″ because it is a somewhat loose-fitting garment and the pleat on the front adds a bit more ease than usual. If you haven’t seen it yet, we have a tutorial called Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size that might be helpful!
Please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi, are the shoulders shaped with decreases or short rows or? I really don’t like patterns with short rows! LOL Thanks, Judi
Hi Judi!
Thank you for your question! The shoulders in this pattern are shaped by binding off stitches along the edges to create the shoulders and neckline. This garment is worked from the bottom up in two pieces knit flat and then seamed together at the end, and there are no short rows!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi, I bought some Santolini yarn and am wondering if this pattern would work with that yarn. Thanks!
Hi Chel,
Thanks for reaching out. Santolina would be a lovely yarn to use for this project! I recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project to be sure that you are getting 25 stitches and 38 rows = 4″ in stockinette. We also have a tutorial here on gauge that you might find helpful.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi there! In the silk version of this shirt, is the cat tail silk held double?
Thank you
Theresa
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for writing in! The yarn is held single in both versions of this pattern. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I would like to knit this sweater with a little more coverage. Is there a way to increase the middle part to make it higher (if that makes sense)?
Hi Stormie,
There’s definitely ways to make the neckline higher in this design! I’d recommend knitting the Front for longer before beginning the neckline decreases, and then working the decreases on every other row, rather than every 4th row. You’d just need to make sure you end up with the correct number of stitches and rows by the end of the Front!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you:-)
Before I start knitting, I want to make sure I am picking the correct size: My chest circumference is 40″ and my shoulder to hem is 23″. I was going to knit the 2nd size —
Finished chest circumference 43-1/2
Finished hip circumference 47-1/4
Finished length from shoulder to bottom edge 25-1/4
Am I right?
Hi Stormie,
This pattern was designed with slightly more positive ease than the second size (size 43 1/2) would give you. For a chest circumference of 40 inches, we’d recommend knitting the third size (size 47 1/4) instead. That would fit with 7 1/4 inches of ease (and for reference, the model is wearing the garment with 9 1/2 inches of ease).
All the best,
Lili
Thank you:-)
Are there any errata for this pattern? I was exactly on track until the last few rows of the left back shoulder, where I suddenly come up with 8 extra stitches. I’m making the 47.25″ size and it seems that maybe the instruction to bind off 8 st at the neck should have been repeated once to get that count right. Can you confirm my suspicion?
Thanks 🙂
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! I took a look through this part of the pattern, and I can confirm that it’s correct as written. Here’s how the stitch count breaks down for size 47 1/4 as you work the bind-off rows:
Beginning with 34 stitches…
1st row (wrong side): 34 – 4 = 30
2nd row (right side): 30 – 8 = 22
3rd row (ws): 22 – 4 = 18
4th row (rs): 18 – 5 = 13
5th row (ws): 13 – 4 = 9
6th row (rs): 9 – 1 = 8
7th row (ws): 8 – 4 = 4
I’d recommend undoing your work and then redoing it, counting your stitches after each row! You can use the stitch counts above to help guide you. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
You’re right, it was my mistake. Thanks!
Hi, I need longer sleeves. Would it be possible to lengthen them with this pattern? Thanks
Hi Mickey,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m afraid that the way the pattern is written makes it very difficult to increase the length of the sleeves. However, you could try picking up stitches around the finished armholes and then knitting the sleeves down from there. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I am ready to block this sweater. I have blocking wires but have never used them on a sweater. Any tips or a tutorial for wet blocking with wires?
Thanks
Maureen
Hi Maureen,
I actually wouldn’t recommend using blocking wires for a sweater! They’re great for projects with shawls that have long straight edges and/or many points, but they probably wouldn’t be of any benefit for a sweater.
All the best,
Lili
Hi
Is there an error in the decrease instructions for R or L Shape Neckline + Shoulder instructions.
For the Shape Right Neckline + Shoulder the pattern indicates the first decrease row should be worked 20 MORE times. The equivalent instruction for the Shape Left Neckline + Shoulder first decrease row asked me to work this 20 times. The “MORE” is missing.
Is this correct?
Maeve
Hi Maeve,
Thanks for reaching out about this! You’re absolutely right that the wording in the Shape Neckline, Armhole + Shoulder sections are inconsistent. We’re actually going to remove the “more” from the Left side instruction, since you haven’t been working the decrease at that rate prior to this, and saying “repeat” means that you’ve already worked the decrease once which should clarify enough. Overall, you should have worked the Neckline Decrease Row a total of 21 times on both sides before moving onto the next rate of decrease!
I hope this helps clear things up, and thanks again for bringing this to our attention!
All the best,
Lili