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Julie Hoover For Purl Soho: Arie
As the sun warms the earth, sprouts grow bold, unfurling into dramatic wide-leafed hostas, bright happy tulips, and beautifully complex ferns. Julie Hoover’s Arie knitting pattern takes a cue from new life, with a simple pleat at the neckline that unfolds and billows, transforming this comfortable top into a work of natural beauty.
You knit the Arie in two pieces from the bottom up, working the fold into the bottom of the V before shaping the neckline and armholes. Once seamed and finished, the shape of the sleeves curves beautifully down the shoulders and around the arms. A split hem that dips a bit lower in the back and a graceful, seed stitch V-neck complete the thoughtful details.
For this knitting pattern you can choose either Linen Quill (above) or Cattail Silk (below), two of our favorite yarns for natural charm. Linen Quill combines fine wool, alpaca, and linen into a yarn that is wonderfully rustic, but still soft. Available in an astounding range of colors, Linen Quill creates a lightweight garment, a bit cozier and squishier than the silk. It’s perfect as a cold-weather layer or on its own when the evening air or sea breeze might call for a bit of warmth.
Cattail Silk is a 100% silk yarn that has an earthy texture and soft shine, lending it a casual elegance that’s perfect for any occasion. It leads to a light and airy Arie with a gorgeous drape, and will keep you cool on a summer’s day. Whichever yarn you choose, you’ll love knitting and wearing this down-to-earth beauty!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Pattern designed and written by Julie Hoover for Purl Soho. Currently based in southern Spain, Julie Hoover designs knitwear and makes yarn, for both her own personal label and others. Her work reflects a lifelong passion for clothing and textiles, and her view that knitting is a beautiful way of creating timeless fashion, a thoughtful mix of quality and creativity, intention and care. See more from Julie on her website!
Materials
- 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cattail Silk, 100% silk yarn. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 618 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 970 (1080, 1220, 1360, 1490) (1685, 1850, 2045, 2220) yards required. We used the color Thin Cloud Gray.
OR
- 2 (3, 3, 3, 4) (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 875 (985, 1115, 1240, 1355) (1535, 1690, 1865, 2025) yards required. We used the color Fresh Pickle.
You’ll also need…
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 24-inch circular needles
- Two US 3 double pointed needles
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- An Arie Pattern
GAUGE
25 stitches and 38 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
NOTE: For help deciding which size to knit, please visit our Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size tutorial.
39¾ (43½, 47¼, 51¼, 55) (59, 62¾, 66½, 70½)
To fit actual chest circumference of 29–33 (33–37, 37–41, 41–45, 45–49) (49–53, 53–57, 57–61, 61–63) inches, with approximately 6–10 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 39¾ (43½, 47¼, 51¼, 55) (59, 62¾, 66½, 70½) inches
- Finished Hip Circumference: 43¼ (47¼, 51, 55, 58¾) (62½, 66½, 70¼, 74) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder To Bottom Edge: 24¾ (25¼, 26¼, 27, 27½) (29, 30, 31¼, 32) inches
Samples: The sweaters pictured here are size 43½, worn with 9½ inches of ease.
PATTERN
The Arie Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
how many pages in this pattern? and what level of knitting is this pattern?
Hi Jackie,
Thank you for your question! This pattern is nine pages long (including photos) and we think this pattern is accessible for anyone familiar with garment design, shaping via increases and binding off, and putting stitches on hold with stitch markers. I encourage you to give it a try, and we are always able to help with our tutorials page, via email at [email protected], and via zoom with our 1-on-1 zoom chats!
I hope this helps, and we are here if you have any questions!
All the best,
Margaret
How much yarn will I need to make this sweater
Hi Sharon!
Thank you for your question! You can find this information for any of our patterns under “Materials” and “Sizes” sections of the pattern story page, however I am happy to include that information for you here too! For sizes 39¾ (43½, 47¼, 51¼, 55) (59, 62¾, 66½, 70½) to fit actual chest circumference of 29–33 (33–37, 37–41, 41–45, 45–49) (49–53, 53–57, 57–61, 61–63) inches, with approximately 6–10 inches of ease, you will need either 2 (3, 3, 3, 4) (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins of Linen Quill or 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 4, 4) skeins of Cattail Silk.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Do you think adapting this to knit in the round will compromise the design significantly?
Hi Fiona,
Thanks for reaching out. Knitting Arie in the round won’t change very much about the design, but the neckline and sleeves would need to be worked flat, as well as the split hem detail if you choose to include it!
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
All the best,
Carly
Hello, I have a question about “Shape Armholes” for the back. “Working in established pattern with 3-stitch border, repeat Armhole Increase Row every 6th row 7 more times. [140 (152, 164, 176, 188) (200, 212, 224, 236) stitches]”. When it says “repeat Armhole Increase Row every 6th row”, does that count right side and wrong side rows? So the next increase row would be done on the third right side row after the increase row? Or should the next increase row be the 6th right side row after the increase? Thanks.
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! The increase rows will only be worked on the right side of the fabric. After the first increase row, you will be starting the repeat on a wrong side row (Row 2) and then alternating between rows 1 and 2 until the 6th row, which is where you work your increase on the right side again.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Thanks Carly. So I also count the wrong side rows when counting 6 rows until the next increase on the right side, and so on. Got it. Thank you!
You are very welcome, Jennifer! And yes, that is correct. Happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
I am planning to knit this sweater and trying to decide what size to make. My question is, are 6-10 inches of ease an unusually large amount of ease for a pattern?
thanks
Jane
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! The positive ease range for this sweater was designed to be between 6-10″ because it is a somewhat loose-fitting garment and the pleat on the front adds a bit more ease than usual. If you haven’t seen it yet, we have a tutorial called Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size that might be helpful!
Please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi, are the shoulders shaped with decreases or short rows or? I really don’t like patterns with short rows! LOL Thanks, Judi
Hi Judi!
Thank you for your question! The shoulders in this pattern are shaped by binding off stitches along the edges to create the shoulders and neckline. This garment is worked from the bottom up in two pieces knit flat and then seamed together at the end, and there are no short rows!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi, I bought some Santolini yarn and am wondering if this pattern would work with that yarn. Thanks!
Hi Chel,
Thanks for reaching out. Santolina would be a lovely yarn to use for this project! I recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project to be sure that you are getting 25 stitches and 38 rows = 4″ in stockinette. We also have a tutorial here on gauge that you might find helpful.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi there! In the silk version of this shirt, is the cat tail silk held double?
Thank you
Theresa
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for writing in! The yarn is held single in both versions of this pattern. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I would like to knit this sweater with a little more coverage. Is there a way to increase the middle part to make it higher (if that makes sense)?
Hi Stormie,
There’s definitely ways to make the neckline higher in this design! I’d recommend knitting the Front for longer before beginning the neckline decreases, and then working the decreases on every other row, rather than every 4th row. You’d just need to make sure you end up with the correct number of stitches and rows by the end of the Front!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you:-)
Before I start knitting, I want to make sure I am picking the correct size: My chest circumference is 40″ and my shoulder to hem is 23″. I was going to knit the 2nd size —
Finished chest circumference 43-1/2
Finished hip circumference 47-1/4
Finished length from shoulder to bottom edge 25-1/4
Am I right?
Hi Stormie,
This pattern was designed with slightly more positive ease than the second size (size 43 1/2) would give you. For a chest circumference of 40 inches, we’d recommend knitting the third size (size 47 1/4) instead. That would fit with 7 1/4 inches of ease (and for reference, the model is wearing the garment with 9 1/2 inches of ease).
All the best,
Lili
Thank you:-)
Are there any errata for this pattern? I was exactly on track until the last few rows of the left back shoulder, where I suddenly come up with 8 extra stitches. I’m making the 47.25″ size and it seems that maybe the instruction to bind off 8 st at the neck should have been repeated once to get that count right. Can you confirm my suspicion?
Thanks 🙂
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! I took a look through this part of the pattern, and I can confirm that it’s correct as written. Here’s how the stitch count breaks down for size 47 1/4 as you work the bind-off rows:
Beginning with 34 stitches…
1st row (wrong side): 34 – 4 = 30
2nd row (right side): 30 – 8 = 22
3rd row (ws): 22 – 4 = 18
4th row (rs): 18 – 5 = 13
5th row (ws): 13 – 4 = 9
6th row (rs): 9 – 1 = 8
7th row (ws): 8 – 4 = 4
I’d recommend undoing your work and then redoing it, counting your stitches after each row! You can use the stitch counts above to help guide you. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
You’re right, it was my mistake. Thanks!
Hi, I need longer sleeves. Would it be possible to lengthen them with this pattern? Thanks
Hi Mickey,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m afraid that the way the pattern is written makes it very difficult to increase the length of the sleeves. However, you could try picking up stitches around the finished armholes and then knitting the sleeves down from there. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I am ready to block this sweater. I have blocking wires but have never used them on a sweater. Any tips or a tutorial for wet blocking with wires?
Thanks
Maureen
Hi Maureen,
I actually wouldn’t recommend using blocking wires for a sweater! They’re great for projects with shawls that have long straight edges and/or many points, but they probably wouldn’t be of any benefit for a sweater.
All the best,
Lili
Hi
Is there an error in the decrease instructions for R or L Shape Neckline + Shoulder instructions.
For the Shape Right Neckline + Shoulder the pattern indicates the first decrease row should be worked 20 MORE times. The equivalent instruction for the Shape Left Neckline + Shoulder first decrease row asked me to work this 20 times. The “MORE” is missing.
Is this correct?
Maeve
Hi Maeve,
Thanks for reaching out about this! You’re absolutely right that the wording in the Shape Neckline, Armhole + Shoulder sections are inconsistent. We’re actually going to remove the “more” from the Left side instruction, since you haven’t been working the decrease at that rate prior to this, and saying “repeat” means that you’ve already worked the decrease once which should clarify enough. Overall, you should have worked the Neckline Decrease Row a total of 21 times on both sides before moving onto the next rate of decrease!
I hope this helps clear things up, and thanks again for bringing this to our attention!
All the best,
Lili
Hi I am a fairly new knitter and I am having trouble with the instructions… It says under Shape Sides: “working in stockinette stitch with 1 stitch garter selvage, repeat Side Decrease Row every 30th row (for my size) 3 more times”.
Then it says to “work 9 rows even or until piece measures 13 3/4 inches from cast on edge”
So am I working stockinette stitch for a total of 90 rows then working the 9 rows? Am I alternating stockinette and purl rows as before? I’m sorry this is not clear to me, can you please help?
Hi Caroline,
Thank you for reaching out! We are always here to help answer any questions that arise so no need to apologize! You are correct in reading the instructions, you will first work 90 rows along with your decreases and then afterwards you will continue in stockinette stitch until your work measures 13 3/4 inches. When working stockinette stitch flat(turning each row), you will knit your right side rows and purl on the wrong side! When working stockinette stitch in rounds, you are knitting every stitch. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I have 2 skeins of Brume. I was wonder ing if that would be enough for this sweater?
Hi Trish,
I’m sorry to say that 2 skeins of Brume is not quite enough for this pattern. You will need approximately 875 (985, 1115, 1240, 1355) (1535, 1690, 1865, 2025) yards of yarn depending on which size you are making. To figure out the yardage for any yarn, you will want to divide the yardage required for the pattern by the yardage of a single skein of yarn. This will give you the number of skeins needed for any yarn substitution. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
I’m working on the Left Front, Im at the Neckline decrease, it says Left Neckline decrease every 4th row 17xs at the same time when 44 rows have been worked from beginning of Armhome and 89 sts remain – this is where I’m stuck as at – the math doesn’t work. 44 row 11 decrease but 89 st is only a 5 st decrease – what am I missing ?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thank you for writing in! Once you reach 5 sts decreased you will begin to also shape your armhole at the same time. This means you will not be completely done with those decreased but once you reach the stitch count of 89 sts, you will beging to also shape Armhole, then Shoulder. I hope this helps clarify!
All the best,
Gavriella
Oh thank you so much – that makes more sense. I was just over thinking it.
You are very welcome! Please let us know if you have any other questions along the way!
I would like a hot weather fabric. Would Estuary or Santolina give the front pleat that crispness without the warmth?
Hi Jane,
Thanks for asking! Those yarns would also work wonderfully for this pattern but I do want to mention that Cattail Silk is also a great warm weather yarn.
I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I am just about to start shaping the armholes but I am confused about the binging off instructions.
“ Work 9 rows even or until piece measures 13¾ inches from
cast-on edge, ending with a wrong-side row.
Continuing in stockinette stitch, bind off 1 stitch at beginning of next 2 rows. [124 stitches remain]”
Am I supposed to bind off the stitches at the end of the 9 rows mentioned in the first sentence? Or do I bind off in the next section of shaping the armholes? Thanks!
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for writing in! You will bind off those two stitches before you start the “Shape Armholes” section.
After you work 9 rows even (or until piece measures 13 3/4″ from cast on edge), ending with a wrong side row, you will knit two more rows, binding off one stitch at the beginning of each of those rows. Then you will move on to the “Shape Armholes” section.
We hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Allison
It is possible to make short rows at the shoulders instead of bind off 3 stitches in the beginning of next 8 rows? I also think the v- neck is a bit low for me, can I easily change it in any way?
thank you.
Hi Mona,
Thank you for reaching out! You can certainly make modifications to the pattern if you wish! To shorten the top of your garment, I’d recommend doing so in the sections that you work even so you do not need to recalculate any stitch counts. I hope this helps and happy making!
Warmly,
Gavriella
Im sorry Gavriella, I don’t really understand what you mean. I thought maybe I could make the v-neck start a little bit higher so it’s not so deep, but I don’t really know what you mean.
best regards mona
Hi Mona!
I’m so sorry for the delay in my response and I am happy to clarify! In certain sections of the pattern, the instructions indicate to work even as in do not increase or decrease on these rows. For example, in the Shape Armhole section, the pattern indicates to ‘Repeat Rows 1 and 2 nine (11, 13, 15, 18) (21, 25, 29, 32) more times.’ since this section will add depth to your yoke, I’d recommend knitting less rows resulting in a shallower yoke.
Either way you choose to modify, one great tip I like to use when altering a pattern is to add a lifeline right at the point where you decide to begin your modifications. That way, if you decide to pivot, you’ll be able to easily identify where you started making changes and rip back if needed.
I hope this helps, but we’re always happy to continue talking this through if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting!
Gavriella