Half + Half Triangles Wrap
Our Half + Half Triangles Wrap embraces the wearer in a play of shape and color, like a gorgeous faceted gem!
A clever construction where short rows create two connected triangles, this knit transforms a simple garter stitch square into a double layered triangle. Fold the square along the color divide and choose which side will be front and center for the day!
We’re pretty excited about all the color possibilities, having just added 16 brand new colors to our collection of Linen Quill. A fingering weight yarn softly spun from fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen, Linen Quill now comes in almost fifty incredible colors!
We used classic Kiln Red with fresh-from-the-mill Poppy Red for an earth and fire incandescent glow. Scroll down for tons more combo ideas, each pulling from a different slice of the rainbow!
Our Half + Half Triangles Wrap pattern has instructions for two sizes: Big and Bigger (we went with bigger!). Either way, it’s wonderfully easy knitting, totally beautiful color fun, and exactly what we want to wear!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoHalfAndHalfWrap, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Color A: 2 (3) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca and 15% linen. Each skein is 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 791 (1,087) yards required. We used Kiln Red.
- Color B: 2 (3) skeins of Linen Quill; approximately 845 (1,160) yards required. We used Red Poppy.
- US 3 (3.25 mm) straight or circular needles
- A stitch marker
Our Half + Half Triangles Wrap Bundle includes the yarn you’ll need for a Bigger size wrap. Pick your favorite bundle or create your own combo with over 50 Linen Quill colors to choose from!
Top Row
- Color A: Wheat Flour; Color B: Oatmeal Gray
- Color A: Dandelion Yellow; Color B: Mustard Seed
Second Row
- Color A: Honey Pink; Color B: Peachy Pink
- Color A: Super Orange; Color B: Sweet Potato
Third Row
- Color A: Crocus Bud; Color B: Purple Smoke
- Color A: Pink Pop; Color B: Rhubarb Pink
Fourth Row
- Color A: Peach Stone; Color B: Dark Iris
- Color A: Salt + Pepper; Color B: Kettle Black
Bottom Row
- Color A: Eggshell Blue; Color B: Green Turquoise
- Color A: True Turquoise; Color B: High Tide
Gauge
24 stitches and 48 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Sizes
Big (Bigger)
Unblocked Dimensions: 27½ (37¾) inches wide x 32 (44) inches long; approximately 42 (58) inches along the fold
Finished Dimensions: 31¾ (43) inches wide x 31¾ (43) inches long; approximately 45 (61) inches along the fold
Sample: We knit up the Bigger size here.
Notes
WRP-T (Wrap And Turn)
Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
To see this technique in action, visit our Short Row Tutorial and follow along with the wrap and turn on the knit side section (at 0:30 seconds), except do not bring the yarn to the back before you turn.
Knit With Wrap
Keeping yarn in back, pick up the wrap with the right needle from front to back, then insert the needle into the wrapped stitch knitwise. Knit the stitch and wrap together.
Construction
You will knit this piece lengthwise.
Due to its construction, the unblocked dimensions are fixed to a set ratio. The length of the scarf can be altered by casting on any number of stitches, and the width dimensions will always be approximately 90% of the length. If wet blocking, the piece should block out to an approximate square.
Pattern
Triangle 1
With Color A, cast on (190) 260 stitches.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to last 3 stitches, place marker (pm), k1, wrap and turn (wrp-t, see Notes).
Row 3: Knit to end of row.
Row 4: Knit to marker, remove marker, wrp-t.
Row 5: K1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have wrapped every stitch except the last two, ending with Row 5.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, remove marker, wrp-t.
Next Row (right side): K1.
Next Row: K1, *knit next stitch with its wrap (see Notes), repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Cut Color A.
Triangle 2
Row 1 (right side): With Color B, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 3 (right side): K1, wrp-t.
Row 4 (wrong side): K1.
Row 5 (right side): K1, knit next stitch with its wrap, place marker, wrp- t.
Row 6 (wrong side): Slip marker, knit to end of row.
Row 7 (right side): Knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, place marker, wrp-t.
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 until you have completed a wrap and turn on the second to last stitch.
Repeat Row 6.
Next Row (right side): Knit to last marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, k1.
With the wrong side facing you, bind off knitwise.
Weave in the ends and block!
I am allergic to wool, alpaca, cashmere etc. Can you suggest an alternative yarn for this pattern that is cotton, linen, bamboo, ??
Hi Ann,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest using our lovely Santolina! It is a beautiful blend of 70% organically grown cotton, 20% rayon from bamboo, 10% hemp and it has a very similar drape to Linen Quill, making it a perfect substitute for this pattern! Although it is the same gauge, I do recommend starting off by working a gauge swatch to ensure you are consistent with the pattern prior to beginning.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Thank you! That will be perfect!!
I’ve started knitting the wrap and have a BIG question-is the short rows only on one side? Will the 1st triangle look like it’s 90 degrees? The beg. of the rt. side is knit across to the marker and the wrong side begins with a gsr. Am I following the instructions correctly? Thank you
Hi Norma,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, that is correct, you are making a 90-degree triangle, so you will only be working the short rows on one side of the work!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I might try this at some point, with my great abundance of Peerie from Brooklyn Tweed. It’s a nice way to learn the GSR technique and how to adjust a W&T pattern.
Hi, is it possible to make this shawl using stockinette stitch instead of garter stitch? I’m not a fan of garter stitch…..
Hi Paz,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could certainly work this wrap in stockinette instead of garter stitch, I would just suggest starting off by working a gauge swatch so you will know if you need to make any adjustments to the cast on!
Please let us know how this turns out!
Gianna
I would like to make the wrap 50” square using Linen Quill. Should I cast on more stitches or use a bigger needle? And do you think six skeins will be enough yarn?
Thanks!
Victoria
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for writing in! I think you could increase the size of the wrap either way, but I would lean towards casting on more stitches, in order to maintain the texture and drape of the original design. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if you need help with this step please visit our tutorial All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the resulting number of stitches.
As for the number of skeins, I think that 6 will still work, since you’re not increasing the size drastically. But if you’re worried about running out of yarn, I would go ahead and buy 8 skeins. Worst case is you’ll have some extra yarn!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for your reply Lili. Do you know when Kiln Red and Red Poppy will be back in stock? I think those are the colors I want to use to make the half + half triangle wrap.
Victoria
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for your response! Although I don’t have a firm eta, we should have Kiln Red and Red Poppy available within the next month! The best way to stay notified is to add your email on the Linen Quill product page under the colors you are interested in, once they are available on our site again we will send you an email right away!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Okay I don’t think I’m doing the wrap and turn correctly – I end up with extra stitches?
Hi Rhonda,
Thanks for reaching out! Short rows can certainly be tricky, but fortunately, we have a wonderful tutorial for them. Our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial is a great resource for the technique, and it may be helpful in your case to find out what’s going wrong! One thing to note is that since the pattern is in garter stitch, you’ll only need to follow the directions for the wrap and turn on the knit side.
All the best,
Lili
My question is about the direction the garter rows run in both triangles. I’ve seen lots of closeup photos that show the beginning of the second color with the second triangle. The photos show the garter rows of both triangles running parallel (in the same direction with each other), but some photos show them as perpendicular. How are they intended to be? I prefer the parallel way. If the second triangle is started at the wrong end of triangle one, will that ‘flip’ the direction of the garter rows to perpendicular?
Also, please confirm, all the wrapped stitches of triangle one are picked up with color one, not the second color, correct?
Thank you so much!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out. I can confirm that the garter rows run parallel between the different colors! In some of the photos, it may look like they run perpendicular, but that’s just due to how the wrap was folded or draped for that picture.
Starting at the opposite end of triangle 1 will also not flip the garter rows to perpendicular. The pattern actually doesn’t allow for starting the second triangle in the wrong place! Once you finish the final row of the first triangle, all your stitches will be live on your needles, so you just need to join in your next color to get started on the second triangle.
I can confirm that all the wrapped stitches of either triangle are picked up with the same color they were knit with. You will pick up all your wraps for triangle 1 on the final row, which is before you join in your second color. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Thank you for your response! And thank you for confirming that all wraps are picked up with the same color yarn. There is so much out there on social media, and some pics show people picking the wraps up with the second color. Of course I realize there are many ways to ‘vary’ from the written pattern, but I wanted to hear it from the source, from you!
Also, as for the direction of garter rows, thank you for confirming that they do run parallel. I understand what you mean about the pics that show the wrap folded or draped a certain way could make it LOOK like they run perpendicular. But I am referring to pics online where people show a closeup of the beginning of their second color (no draping or folding of shawl, just a tiny second triangle starting) and it looks perpendicular. I watched Jackie’s, of CadyJax, video tutorial on doing the GSR for this shawl, and her second triangle rows look so perpendicular, so I definitely had to ask you! I also think she picked up her wraps with the second color, but I could be mistaken about that, and that’s neither here nor there, as I understand of course that it COULD be done that way if someone wanted to lol!
Again, thank you so much for your answers to my questions! And I will definitely do a small sample swatch to see how it goes, and to gain more confidence, before I start this project.
Thank you!!
Hi Lisa,
I’m so glad that my answers helped out! I believe you’re right that many people are making some modifications to the pattern as they go along, which would definitely explain the variety in the pictures you’ve seen online. But yes, I can confirm from the source that, in the way we wrote the pattern, all the wraps are picked up with the same color!
I think I also can explain why the garter rows can look perpendicular, especially when you’re just beginning the second triangle. When you start the first short rows, they don’t add much height to the side of the triangle. This makes them seem as if they’re perpendicular, because they haven’t had the time to accumulate in height in relation to the full rows you will have just knit, as the short rows from the first side of the triangles have had already. So as you knit more short rows, the height on the side of the triangle will continue to increase, which will differentiate the short rows from the initial two full rows, and the garter rows will look more and more parallel! I hope this makes sense–this was a difficult concept to describe in words!
I also think making a small sample swatch is a wonderful idea. I actually made one myself while answering your first comment, since I have not actually made this wrap yet!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Aha, I think you’re onto something about why those rows might appear to be perpendicular in the start of triangle number two!! That makes a lot of sense! And I have to really thank you for mini-swatching in order to help answer my questions, that is very kind of you, thank you so much for all of your help!
I would love to make this pattern but am intimidated by the small sized needles. Also, I’ve never used fingering yarn, only worsted, so I’m worried that this will take me years to complete. Do you have a suggestion for doubling the yarn and using larger needles, or perhaps you have a worsted weight similar type of yarn that could be used?
Hi Caitlin,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely knit this pattern with any weight yarn! The only thing you’ll need to do is modify the cast-on number, so that your wrap comes out to the right dimensions. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if you need help with this step, please visit our tutorial). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width of the diagonal of the wrap (43″ for the smaller size, and 61″ for the larger) and then cast on the resulting number of stitches! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Lili,
I am confused as to how you got to a cast on of 260 stitches using this calculation of 61″ x 6 stitches per inch for the pattern as stated?
Thanks for any help you can give.
Sherryl
Hi Sherryl,
Ah, thanks so much for pointing that out! My mistake–I meant to say “Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width of the cast-on edge (31.75″ for the smaller size, and 43″ for the larger) and then cast on the resulting number of stitches!” Apologies for the confusion.
All the best,
Lili
Hi Caitlyn , I feel as you do about the tiny needles and yarn for the half & half wrap. I will be curious to know what you decided to do with yours. As I would like to do the same.
Thank you,
Kathleen
Thanks so much, Lili. I am new to your yarns, via The Gentle Knitter. Do you have a worsted weight that corresponds with Linen Quill?
Caitlin in Vermont
Hi Caitlin,
We absolutely do! In fact, we have a worsted version of Linen Quill which is called Linen Quill Worsted and is made of the same fibers in the thicker weight! If you like the look of Linen Quill but want to go with a thicker yarn, then Linen Quill Worsted would be my first recommendation. I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Today I posted my thoughts about this remarkable project on Twitter:
“Knitting this classic wrap is creating an ever-growing community of knitters unified by the spare beauty and simple process of it all. For me, it has become a metaphor for these austere times. It can be likened to joining a pilgrimage along The Camino.”
I am so grateful for the positive energy that the Half + Half Triangles phenomenon is generating in the midst of this pandemic. We’re all sending harmony and unity out into the world, one stitch at a time.
I have a question about terminology used in one of the steps in the instructions for Triangle 2. The term in question is “second to last”.
I researched this term and found two different interpretations for it.
Some sources say that it means the same thing as “next to last”, so that you would do the requisite step for the stitch immediately before the last stitch.
Other sources say that “second to last” means two steps before the last, so that you would do the requisite step two stitches before the last stitch. Which way does the pattern mean the term “second to last”? Thanks for a clarification.
Hi Vivian,
Thanks for reaching out with this question! It is certainly confusing when multiple sources have differing information. In the case of this pattern, what we mean by “second to last stitch” is the stitch directly before the last one. You’ll work each short row, wrapping and turning on the next stitch, until you’ve worked a wrap and turn on every stitch except for the last one. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! I’m knitting a practice swatch for the Half+Half Triangles wrap, and when I reached that point in the pattern I was a bit confused as to what it meant. My practice swatch (30 stitches cast on) is turning out to be a practical way to get ready for the actual project. Great confidence builder, too.
Could I use Cashmere Marino Bloom as a substitute for the linen quill? If so, how would I calculate yarn balls and figure out what needle sizes to use?
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in! Linen Quill is a fingering weight yarn, so it’s a lot thinner than Cashmere Merino Bloom, which is DK weight. But you could absolutely make this pattern work with it, you would just need to adjust your cast-on number! To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if you need help with this step please visit our tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width of the cast-on edge (in this case, either 45 or 61 inches) and cast on the resulting number. I would recommend using needles between sizes US 5 and US 7, but unfortunately, since we haven’t knit up a version of this wrap with Cashmere Merino Bloom, I don’t have a good estimate of how much yarn you would need.
All the best,
Lili
I’ve completed the first triangle, starting the second but having a hard time understanding the “knit the stitch with it’s wrap” and I have watched the tutorial videos. Question- can I just do the second triangle the same as the first, doing the “knit one, wrap and turn”, progressively shortening the rows like triangle one? Would it not turn out the same. Frustrated but loving this wrap! Thank you!
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out! When you work the wrap of a wrap + turn short row, you’ll end up with a little loop of yarn around a knit stitch. When you go to knit this stich, in addition to inserting your right needle into the front leg of the stitch as normal, you will also insert your needle into the front portion of the loop that’s wrapped around it. You will now have two strands of yarn on your needle, and you can just knit these like normal! I hope this helps clarify how to pick up a wrap.
I also wanted to let you know that you will still need to knit stitches along with their wraps while working Triangle 1. This happens on the final row, where you’ll be knitting practically every stitch with its wrap. I would recommend working Triangle 2 as written though, since it will significantly change the construction of the wrap to knit it like Triangle 1! Specifically, the edges of the triangles won’t align correctly, so you’ll get a finished wrap that isn’t a square.
All the best,
Lili
I’m also confused about the last step of triangle 1. *knit next stitch with its wrap*
I’ve tried watching the video but doesn’t help much as it is showing “purl with its wrap “
Is it possible to direct me to a video showing exactly how to knit with its wrap?” I’ve tired following your directions above but doesn’t look right. Thanks!
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for reaching out! The method should work about the same way as we show it in the tutorial when you purl the wrap, except all you need to do is knit the stitch with its wrap! You will do this by inserting your needle through both the wrap and the stitch and then knitting the two together as normal. If you continue to have an issue, please feel free to sign up for our free 1-On-1 Project Help, from there one of our customer service associates can set up a zoom call with you to go over the technique in more detail!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Some had asked this question several months ago, but it was included with another question, and I don’t believe it was ever answered.
My question pertains to these instructions for Triangle 1:
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have wrapped every stitch except the last two, ending with Row 5.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, remove marker, wrp-t.
Question: What do you do with those last two stitches immediately before proceeding to the Next Row (wrong side)?
Many thanks.
Hi Vivian,
Thanks for writing in. On Row 5, you’ll just be knitting to the end of the row, so after you finish your last Row 5, you can simply turn the work to begin Next Row (wrong side)! The two stitches will still remain on your needles. I hope this clarifies things more!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I’m a novice knitter and want to make this beautiful wrap but I’m having difficulty understanding the instructions after Row 5. Do you keep knitting rows 4 &5 until the yarn is used up? I would appreciate any help.
Thank you.
Hi Madeline,
Thanks for writing in. Yes, after Row 5 in Triangle 1, you just need to repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you get to the final stitch! Because you’re working in short rows, each row essentially decreases by 1 stitch every time you knit a Row 4. This way, the rows get progressively shorter and shorter, until you only have 1 stitch left! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
I’m looking for a Linen Quill color to go with Blue Blue, and I’m leaning towards Blue Pansy. Would those two colors look good together?
Hi Vivian,
Thanks for writing in! I think that Blue Blue and Blue Pansy would look nice together, but the contrast would be very slight. If you’re looking for the two colors to have more contrast, then I would suggest Dark Denim instead of Blue Pansy. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can you tell me which cast on method is suggested for the half & half triangle wrap?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! The pattern doesn’t call for a specific cast-on technique, so feel free to stick with your preferred method of casting on! For example, the Long Tail Cast-On would work great for this pattern. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hi !
If I’m doing German short rows do I follow the pattern right up to the wrap and turn? Being that I still need to k1 prior to the German short row? Thank you for your time and help! Purchasing my yarn as soon as my colors come in! So excited!! Just wanted to make sure I understand so I can actually knit it once I get the yarn 🤣
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out! How exciting! What colors are you planning on using?
Yes, that is correct, you will follow the pattern as written to the wrap and turn, but then you will work a German Short Row in its place! For more information on substituting a German Short Row in place of a Wrap and Turn, I recommend checking out our wonderful German Shirt Rows tutorial!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi there. I’m working on my first one 😊 My yarn color one is going to run out before I’ve finished my first triangle. Is that ok? Should I just add my second color when the first runs out, even if it’s in the first triangle? Thank you and happy holidays!!
Hi HL,
Thanks for reaching out. I would definitely advise against starting Color B before you finish the first triangle. This would result in the first triangle being multiple colors, and you’ll likely run out of Color B before finishing the second triangle! I would recommend buying one more skein of each color to ensure that you have enough of each to finish each triangle.
All the best,
Lili
Hi. M excited to begin this project. Can you tell me what size 3 circular needle to use? Will 32 inch be long enough?
Thank you so much.
Paula
Hi Paula,
Thanks for writing in. I’d recommend using at least 40″ long circular needles, since the wrap gets quite large, especially along the diagonal! It’s possible to knit it on 32″ needles, but your stitches will be cramped. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I wonder if anyone has knit this up in laceweight yarn… I have over 800 yards (2 skeins each) of 2 colors that have been in my stash for years. As long as I get gauge, do you think the yardage will work out for the small size? I have been thinking about this for a week and its like a word problem in math class – I end up with anxiety and no answer that makes sense! 😂😂😂
Hi Gleanne,
Thanks for reaching out. As long as you get the exact same gauge we do, then your project will take the same amount of yardage! So over 800 yards will definitely be enough to make the small size of the wrap. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m also confused about the last step of triangle 1. *knit next stitch with its wrap*
I’ve tried watching the video but doesn’t help much as it is showing “purl with its wrap “
Is it possible to direct me to a video showing exactly how to knit with its wrap?” I’ve tried following your directions in the comments above but doesn’t look right when I do it. Thanks!
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for writing in. If you jump to about 2:35 in our video tutorial, we demonstrate how to pick up a knit stitch with its wrap! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Well, this help but the pattern said “This step is described at minute 3:29 of our short-row tutorial”. We should all really look at 2:35 in the video, not 3:29, is that right? I, too, was thoroughly confused!
Why is there a K1 between the wrap and turns on the first half, but not the second half? Won’t the second half be larger and more dense if every stitch is wrapped and turned. The first half says to wrap and turn, then K1, place marker. Confused !
Hi Mimi,
Thanks for reaching out. On the first triangle, each short row removes one stitch, so you’re starting from the longest short row, and will end up on the shortest. On the second triangle, it’s the opposite, so you’re starting from the shortest short row, adding one stitch with each subsequent short row, and ending on the longest. But all the wraps will still be one stitch apart on either triangle! The “k1” for the first triangle only occurs in Row 2, which is essentially a set-up row for the rest of the short rows. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I’m a bit confused. Your reply says, “The “k1″ for the first triangle only occurs on Row 2”. But Row 5 for the first triangle also calls for a “k1”. Row 5 states in full, “K1, place marker, knit to the end of the row.” Since Row 4 and Row 5 are repeated a number of times in the first triangle, I hope the Row 5 instructions are correct as written in the pattern. Would you be so kind as to clarify what appears to be a discrepancy between your reply and the pattern itself. I hope this question makes since. Thanks, Lili.
Hi Vivian,
Thanks for checking in about this! I’m sorry my instructions in my previous comment were confusing, but the pattern is definitely correct! I was trying to explain the difference between Row 2 and Row 4, since they function in the same way, but need to be written slightly differently, since Row 2 is essentially a set-up row. The “k1” in Row 5 serves an entirely different purpose, which is why I didn’t mention that one in my earlier comment. The “k1” in Row 5 is used to reposition the stitch marker. I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much for clearing that up, Lili. It’s the only time a “k1” appears in the set-up rows. Since I had knitted a small version of the entire wrap as my swatch, I figured the pattern had to be correct since the swatch came out fine. By the way, my first full-size wrap is looking lovely and is such a joy to work on. A real Zen experience.
Hi-
Any yarn substitution suggestions ?? The linen is too scratchy for me. I can do merino wool.
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out. Most of our other fingering weight yarns will work for this pattern! In particular, I think Line Weight or Posy would be very nice substitutes. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m so excited to knit this project but having a problem deciding on colors. I want the wrap to be neutral. Colors I’m considering are Honey Pink, Wheat Flour and Pale Oats. Is the Honey Pink really pink? The Oatmeal Gray is beautiful but really don’t want gray in this wrap. Thank you!
Hi Cecelia,
Thanks for reaching out! Honey Pink is true to the color shown of it on the Linen Quill product page! It is not pink, more of a neutral creamy honey tone! I also think it would go perfectly with Wheat Flour and Pale Oats!
I hope this helps, and please let us know how this turns out!
Gianna
I am super late to the bandwagon on this, mostly because I was having a hard time understanding the pattern. Last night I finally made a 15 stitch swatch and it did finally make sense. However, I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong, but only 2 of my corners are “pointy” (the beginning and the end). For some reason my two ends of the joined triangles are flat. Can you help me figure out what I am doing wrong?
Once I get that figured out I’m ready to go!
Now, if I could only decide on the colors!!!!!
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m happy to hear that you’re getting started on a Half + Half Triangles Wrap! It would be easier for us to help troubleshoot though if we can visualize your project. Would you be able to send some photos of your work so far to customerservice@purlsoho.com? That way we’ll be able to give more specific advice!
Thanks,
Lili
A quick question on adding an i-cord edge to this pattern. Would you slip 3 stitches on both the right side and wrong side to create the edge or just the right side? Thank you!
Hi Nikhila,
Thanks for reaching out. I would actually recommend adding an attached i-cord around the border after you’ve finished knitting the wrap!
All the best,
Lili
Would this pattern work with an acrylic yarn and if so any suggestions?
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for your question!
You can absolutely use a fingering weight acrylic yarn as a substitute for Linen Quill! We don’t currently carry acrylic yarns, but we do have Posy, a machine-washable yarn that would be a perfect substitute for Linen Quill. Posy is spun with a blend of 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon, great for a Half and Half Triangles Wrap! The cashmere gives this yarn a lovely drape and buttery soft feel!
I hope this helps! Please feel free to reach out with any other questions!
All the best,
Carly
I would love to add icord edges to this wrap on all sides. What would be the best way to achieve that outcome?
Thanks!
Hi Ann!
Thank you for your question. To add an I-cord to the edge of your wrap, we suggest following our Attached I-cord Tutorial! This attaches the I-cord after the fact, which will help keep your short rows intact for the triangles in each side of this wrap.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Help! I have watched tutorials on this wonderful wrap, I have made my first wrap, and I am not a newbie knitter, but my first triangle came out significantly smaller than my second triangle! It’s a long rectangle instead of a square. Do you have any immediate thoughts as to what I did wrong? Thanks!
Hi Mimi,
Thanks for writing in about this! It sounds like your gauge might be a bit off between the two triangles, so I would recommend measuring that for each one and comparing it to the gauge we specify for this project (24 stitches and 48 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch).
It might also be helpful to send us a photo of your work at customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can better visualize what’s going wrong!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m ready to start my second half and half wrap but this time with wrap and turns instead of german short rows. I’m waiting on my yarn order (peony pink/peach stone) but would order more yarn if you got bougainvillea pink back in. Is that ever coming back? I love the pics of projects with that combined with fresh pickle! Thanks.
Hi Diane!
Thank you for your comment! Unfortunately, we have decided to stop carrying the color Bougainvillea Pink. While we loved it, not everyone else felt the same, so we have made the sad decision to stop producing it. We do carry this color in our Worsted Twist and Super Soft Merino, if you wanted to add this color to your stash in a different weight of yarn, and Linen Quill in Pink Pop is a very similar color, too. If you would like any other color pairing recommendations, I would be happy to offer some!
All the best,
Margaret
I’m confused has to where I start the wrap and turn. Do I start it on the side of where my tail of the yarn is (from where I casted on) Or is it on the other side?
Hi Jill,
Thanks for reaching out. The first short row is Row 2, which is a wrong side row! On this row, you’ll knit all the way to the last 3 stitches, place a stitch marker, knit 1 more stitch, and then work the wrap + turn. If you did a long tail cast-on, this would be near to the tail. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
…why is the video for the wrap & turn instructions for a stockinette piece? the video is absolutely no help for a garter piece, which the half & half is…
Hi Gillian,
Thanks for writing in. To work wrap + turn short rows in garter stitch, all you’ll need to do is follow the same instructions for short rows on the knit side of stockinette, except do not bring the yarn to the back before you turn! Since it’s the same steps other than that, we linked this tutorial. I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
I’m at the point where I’m finishing knitting Color 1. The instructions read:
“Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have wrapped every stitch except the last two, ending with Row 5.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, remove marker, wrp-t”.
If I’m ending with a Row 5, I have knitted to the end of the row and my last two unwrapped stitches are at the other end of my work, and so is the marker. I cannot, therefore, “K1, remove marker, wrp-t”. There is NO marker to remove. Am thoroughly confused.
Hi Christina,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m sorry to hear that you’ve been running into trouble though! I’m not sure, but it sounds like the stitch marker wasn’t being removed in row 4 and replaced in row 5, but it might be helpful for us to see some pictures of your project. If you’d like, you can email us at customerservice@purlsoho.com and we would be happy to help you get your wrap back on track!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hi!,
I need a little hand holding, because I want to do my best with this “iconic” wrap and I want to be sure that I won’t run out of yarn if I make this just a little larger than the small size….maybe a “medium”. I’ve never used yarn this fine and the skeins look so tiny, but the labels must be correct.
I’m using Holst Noble yarn (which is discontinued) from my stash. Each skein of Noble is 364 yds. and 50 grams. I have 3 skeins of each of the 2 colors. (364×3=1,092 yds)
My question is: how many stitches would I cast on, if I’m at gauge, to make a wrap that’s a little larger?
Also, would a larger needle size help with giving me a larger wrap?
Maybe I should just stick to the “big” small size.
Hi Joyce!
Thank you for your questions! To figure out your cast on amount for a larger wrap, I suggest knitting a gauge swatch with the needle size you’d like to use to see how many stitches you are getting per inch. Then, you can calculate how many stitches to cast on for your desired width based on how many stitches you have per inch. Since you are working with a discontinued yarn, though, I think knitting the pattern as written with a slightly bigger needle size might be the best way to conserve yarn while making a bigger wrap. The yardage you have is quite similar to the bigger size in this pattern, so I think knitting the bigger size of this pattern with a US 4 or US 5 would be the best way to achieve a larger wrap with the same amount of yardage!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you, Margaret.
Your thoughts on this? Will casting on 220 or 230 instead of 190 stitches be safe to do instead of just using a larger size needle to create a wrap that’s a little larger. The yarn is so fine I wonder if the fabric will look lacey with a larger needle. Maybe I’m over thinking this. I just want to be certain I’ll have enough yarn.
Hi Joyce,
Yes, you can cast on 220 or 230 stitches with the regular needle size, and you shouldn’t run out of yarn!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for your kind reply. I’m confidant now and will cast on!!!
If I wish to use Santolina for this wrap, could you suggest some color combinations as it is more difficult to visualize on the computer screen. Also how many skeins for this yarn to do the larger wrap?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out. I would be happy to give you some suggestions for your Half + Half Wrap in Santolina! Here are some color pairings that I think work especially well together: Peach Lily + Red Smoke, Gray Owl + Heirloom White, Stormy Sea + Golden Pollen, and Juniper Berry + Ice Pond. You would need 4 skeins of each color to make the larger wrap!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for the help