Half + Half Triangles Wrap
Our Half + Half Triangles Wrap embraces the wearer in a play of shape and color, like a gorgeous faceted gem!
A clever construction where short rows create two connected triangles, this knit transforms a simple garter stitch square into a double layered triangle. Fold the square along the color divide and choose which side will be front and center for the day!
We’re pretty excited about all the color possibilities, having just added 16 brand new colors to our collection of Linen Quill. A fingering weight yarn softly spun from fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen, Linen Quill now comes in almost fifty incredible colors!
We used classic Kiln Red with fresh-from-the-mill Poppy Red for an earth and fire incandescent glow. Scroll down for tons more combo ideas, each pulling from a different slice of the rainbow!
Our Half + Half Triangles Wrap pattern has instructions for two sizes: Big and Bigger (we went with bigger!). Either way, it’s wonderfully easy knitting, totally beautiful color fun, and exactly what we want to wear!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
UPDATE: DOUBLE THE FUN WITH STRIPES!
SEPTEMBER 2022
Our Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap uses the same clever construction as the original, but now with an engaging array of stripes to give knitters that just-one-more-row-ness that makes this project so satisfying. Cozy as ever, Linen Quill is still the star of the show, now in Striped Half + Half Triangles Wrap Bundles!
UPDATE: NOW IN LOTS OF NEW COLORS!
SEPTEMBER 2023
For the love of knitting, we are happy to offer a new collection of bundles for this wonderful wrap! The pattern is both easy and inventive, but the true impact of this knit is due to one-of-a-kind Linen Quill and its humongous palette of over fifty colors. From such plenty, we had a blast making sixteen new bundles, for a total of nineteen Half + Half Triangles Wrap Bundles! Pick your favorite and cast on for this beloved knit!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoHalfAndHalfTrianglesWrap, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Color A: 2 (3) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca and 15% linen. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 791 (1,087) yards required. We used Kiln Red.
- Color B: 2 (3) skeins of Linen Quill; approximately 845 (1,160) yards required. We used Red Poppy.
- US 3 (3.25 mm) straight or circular needles
- A stitch marker
Our Half + Half Triangles Wrap Bundle includes the yarn you’ll need for a Big (Bigger) size wrap. Pick your favorite bundle!
NOTE: Some palettes below may no longer be available as bundles, but you can still buy the skeins individually or create your own combo with over 50 Linen Quill colors to choose from!
Top Row
- Color A: Wheat Flour; Color B: Oatmeal Gray
- Color A: Dandelion Yellow; Color B: Mustard Seed
Second Row
- Color A: Honey Pink; Color B: Peachy Pink
- Color A: Super Orange; Color B: Sweet Potato
Third Row
- Color A: Crocus Bud; Color B: Purple Smoke
- Color A: Pink Pop; Color B: Rhubarb Pink
Fourth Row
- Color A: Peach Stone; Color B: Dark Iris
- Color A: Salt + Pepper; Color B: Kettle Black
Bottom Row
- Color A: Eggshell Blue; Color B: Green Turquoise
- Color A: True Turquoise; Color B: High Tide
Gauge
24 stitches and 48 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Sizes
Big (Bigger)
Unblocked Dimensions: 27½ (37¾) inches wide x 32 (44) inches long; approximately 42 (58) inches along the fold
Finished Dimensions: 31¾ (43) inches wide x 31¾ (43) inches long; approximately 45 (61) inches along the fold
Sample: We knit up the Bigger size here.
Notes
WRP-T (Wrap And Turn)
Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
To see this technique in action, visit our Short Row Tutorial and follow along with the wrap and turn on the knit side section (at 0:30 seconds), except do not bring the yarn to the back before you turn.
Knit With Wrap
Keeping yarn in back, pick up the wrap with the right needle from front to back, then insert the needle into the wrapped stitch knitwise. Knit the stitch and wrap together. Find step-by-step photos of this technique under the Picking Up The Wrapped Stitch On The Knit Side section in our Short Row Tutorial!
Construction
You will knit this piece lengthwise.
Due to its construction, the unblocked dimensions are fixed to a set ratio. The length of the scarf can be altered by casting on any number of stitches, and the width dimensions will always be approximately 90% of the length. If wet blocking, the piece should block out to an approximate square.
Pattern
Triangle 1
With Color A, cast on (190) 260 stitches.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to last 3 stitches, place marker (pm), k1, wrap and turn (wrp-t, see Notes).
Row 3: Knit to end of row.
Row 4: Knit to marker, remove marker, wrp-t.
Row 5: K1, pm, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have wrapped every stitch except the last two, ending with Row 5.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, remove marker, wrp-t.
Next Row (right side): K1.
Next Row: K1, *knit next stitch with its wrap (see Notes), repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Cut Color A.
Triangle 2
Row 1 (right side): With Color B, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Row 3 (right side): K1, wrp-t.
Row 4 (wrong side): K1.
Row 5 (right side): K1, knit next stitch with its wrap, place marker, wrp- t.
Row 6 (wrong side): Slip marker, knit to end of row.
Row 7 (right side): Knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, place marker, wrp-t.
Repeat Rows 6 and 7 until you have completed a wrap and turn on the second to last stitch.
Repeat Row 6.
Next Row (right side): Knit to last marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, k1.
With the wrong side facing you, bind off knitwise.
Weave in the ends and block!
Learn About Linen Quill + All Our Beautiful Yarns
We designed this project to highlight the uniquely beautiful qualities of our Linen Quill, a wonderful fingering-weight yarn that is a blend of 50% wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. It feels amazing in your hands, and in 70 jaw-droppingly gorgeous colors, Linen Quill is the candy store of yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Linen Quill knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop wool yarn
- Shop alpaca yarn
- Shop linen yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Where I can buy this yarn in italy or in Europe?
Hello Pat,
Thank you for reaching out! Check out our international shipping for information about how to have our yarn shipped to Europe!
Happy knitting,
-Marilla
What length circular needles would you recommend for the larger version?
Hello Sunny,
Thank you for reaching out! I would reccomend using either a 40″ or a 47″ Circular needle, depend on if you prefer less room or more room.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have started with your yarn and 4mm needles. I want to know if yiu have ment to knit the shawel with 2 string together. Since the bigger size dosnt need so much yarn.
I have knitted more than 3/4 of one part with 1 skein. For me its light and very soft. What is the pattern’s way?
Hi Shilhav,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Half + Half Triangles wrap, you’ll work holding only one strand of Linen Quill at a time. The first triangle will be worked in one color (Color A), and the second triangle will be worked in the contrasting color (Color B). The finished product will be a light, springy fabric for your wrap!
I hope this helps clear things up, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Kelsey
Hi there! Which size is shown in the illustration on the model?
Hello Mary,
Thank you for reaching out! We knit up the larger 43 x 43 size.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
How could I make this even bigger? What dimension would one extra skein of each color yield?
Hello Sue,
Thank you for reaching out! Due to its construction, the unblocked dimensions are fixed to a set ratio. The length of the scarf can be altered by casting on any number of stitches, and the width dimensions will always be approximately 90% of the length. If wet blocking, the piece should block out to an approximate square.
If you are adding one skein to each color you will be adding a 3rd to each triangle. This will give you a rough estimate of blocked dimension for the larger size of 57 inches wide x 57 inches long.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m interested in doing this in black/black, using Linen Quill on one half for a textured, heathered look and then something smoother, in a darker/purer black on the other half. Do you have a yarn you’d recommend for that second half? Thanks!
Hello Arden,
Thank you for reaching out- I love this idea! I think that either Brooklyn Tweed’s Peerie would work or Anzula’s Cloud!
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Perfect. Thank you, Marilla!
Hello:
Is all of the yarn used or is there a bit left over? I am the person who always loses at “yarn chicken.”
Thanks!
Andrea
Hi Andrea,
Great question! We had about 100 yards left over from each color for the small size, and 300 from each color for the large size, so there is plenty of wiggle room on the yardage! We now include yardage estimates in the materials section of each pattern, which you may find helpful when planning your projects if this is a problem you run into frequently.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
If I want to use the remaining 300 yards of each color how many stitches should I cast on? Thank you!
Michelle
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! Casting on 325 stitches should use up all of the extra yarn, but do make sure your gauge is exactly right if you try this, as you will be cutting it quite close on yardage!
Best,
Julianna
Hi. Beginner question here. I can’t see how this makes a triangle if there are no decreases. And what about the last 2 stitches after the wrap and turn? Don’t see what to do with them. Sorry. All confused.
Hi Kathie,
Thanks for reaching out! This wrap is actually a square, divided along the diagonal into two triangles, one of each color. It is a bit hard to visualize, but each triangle is shaped by the short rows, rather than the decreases. As you work each short row, you will wrap and turn where indicated and leave the rest of the stitches unworked until later. I would suggest trying it in miniature so you can get the hang of the technique if you still aren’t sure – this pattern will work great on a swatch of about 15 stitches and you will be able to explore how the short rows create a triangle!
I hope that helps and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, working the 15 stitch swatch to understand this, thanks for that tip! I’m confused though, on the video page for short rows it says “Note that there are a few stitch patterns, including Garter Stitch, that don’t require any sort of special technique when it’s time to work back the other way. For these stitch patterns, you just turn the piece and work back the other way. Easy!” – this is garter stitch, right? I’m having trouble seeing the “wrap” to pick up for the stitches after the first and want to make sure I’m doing this right. Many thanks!
Hi Dana,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m glad the mini wrap idea is helpful! It is true that most of the time it isn’t necessary to pick up wraps when working short rows in garter stitch, but sometimes when you are working multiple stacked short rows the wrap and turn holes can still show up. Since you are trying out the swatch version, you can certainly try it without picking up the wraps to see if you are happy with how it looks!
Best,
Julianna
I have had trouble with the wrap & turn technique! Is it OK to use German Short Row? If yes, do I knit 1 more or 1 less stitch with this technique?
Hi Anita,
Thanks for reaching out! You can absolutely use German Short Rows for this pattern, I would suggest checking out our Short Rows: German Short Rows tutorial, it will show you exactly how to modify the pattern to accommodate German Short Rows!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m having trouble imagining this, and I’m not even sure how to describe what I *think* it’s supposed to be! I wish I could draw it to show you what I’m picturing.
Is it like you first knit a triangle from the bottom up, and then with color B start at the bottom again and knit an inverted triangle to fit alongside?
And will my first stitch in Row 1 with color B begin next to a color A stitch and then go to the edge? Or start on the edge and then go to the color A turn around stitch on Row 1?
Hello Hilary,
Thank you for reaching out! This Wrap is knit using short rows so I like to think of the triangle being constructed as if is fanning out from your cast on edge. Your first triangle is like a fan opening up and your second triangle is like a fan closing. In your last row of triangle A you are picking up your your wraps and knitting them with there corresponding stitches. This will take you al the way across your row so you will be ready to begin with color B on the next row.
I hope this is helpful and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I GET IT!
I had to do the 15-stitch sample to understand, but now the opening and closing fan analogy makes sense.
The person who came up with this pattern is a freaky genius, huh?
I appreciate the thoughtful replies to people’s questions, but.. would it have spoiled some vast eternal plan (quote from Fiddler on the the roof) to provide a sketch showing how the two triangle make a square? I’m still utterly confused and I’ve read every call and response on the page. (I don’t need a reply to my comment, thi is just a request for the next pattern).
Hello Christine,
Thank you for your thoughtful suggestion – I will pass in along!
-Marilla
Christine, try the pattern with scrap yarn and just 15 stitches. It’s so hard to imagine, you just have to try it!
I would like to make this into a triangle using 6 ply cashmere. I am a beginner knitter. Do you think this would be difficult and would you be able to give some instructions?
Hello Winnie,
Thank you for reaching out- what a beautiful idea! I would recommend going up in needle size to a US5 or US6 to use 6 ply Cashmere. This means that you will also want to cast on less stitches. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch to figure out how many stitches per inch you are getting. Due to its construction, the unblocked dimensions are fixed to a set ratio. The length of the scarf can be altered by casting on any number of stitches, and the width dimensions will always be approximately 90% of the length.
To make a triangle rather than a square you will just cast off your stitches instead of switching to your second color!
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Love this pattern! Love the squishiness of garter stitch! I’d like to knit this project in Tussock. Would you recommend holding two strands together or three? What needle size would you recommend?
Thanks! Love your work.
Hi Julie
Thanks for writing in! The Tussock is also a fingering weight yarn, and could be substituted with no changes in the pattern, and would be very light and airy. If you double the Tussock I would suggest going up in needle size by 1-2 needles, and this would result in a larger wrap overall. I recommend doing a gauge swatch to see which you like better and what needle size works for you. I hope this helps!
Best
Jessica
Love all the color ideas, but having a hard time deciding. What do you recommend for colors that would work for three or four seasons? I can’t decide.
Hi Erin
Thanks for writing in! There are so many beautiful choices its hard to choose! In the Linen Quill it is almost hard to make a wrong decision. I am really partial to the happy and bright combination of Color A: Eggshell Blue; Color B: Green Turquoise, a combination that would be great if your partial to blues would be Color A: Cobalt Blue; Color B: Dark Denim, and if color is too much a beautiful neutral Color A: Wheat Flour; Color B: Oatmeal Gray. I try to look at my shawls as a pop of color, and choose ones that really make me smile!
Hope this helps!
Happy knitting
Jessica
please tell me how much yarn I need for the 2 colour baby blanket.
thank you
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing in! Although we intended this pattern to be a wrap, the smaller size would be an excellent option for a baby blanket! Unfolded, it is a rectangle that measures 27.5″ by 32″, which is ideal for a crib or baby blanket, so you can knit the smaller size without making any changes to the pattern. You will need two skeins of Linen Quill in each color.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Are you able to substitute Germain Short Rows and if you are how would that work
Brenda
Hi Brenda,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you could certainly substitute German Short Rows in this pattern, and our tutorial will tell you all about the necessary modifications. Essentially, whenever you come to a wrap & turn in the pattern, you will knit one extra stitch, then turn your work and work a German Short Row.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi guys, I’m confused about amounts. I purchased 2 skeins of my 2 colors. Should it have been 2 or 6 instead of 4 ? Thanks .
Opps! Clarification, I purchased 4 skeins total. If it should have been 2 skeins or 6 skeins how would I adjust my number off cast on stitches do I need ? Thanks again .
Hi Liddell,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you are all set for the smaller size of the wrap, which calls for two skeins of each color, or four total. You can go ahead and follow the pattern as written for the smaller size, which starts with casting on 160 stitches!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you for your help. I was panicked that I needed mor yarn . Can’t wait to cast on! What cast on do you recommend ?
Hi Liddy,
I’m so glad you’re ready to get started! We use a Long Tail Cast On for most of our projects, but you could also use a Cable Cast On if you prefer!
All the best,
Julianna
Hi I just came across this (head slap, I have had it saved for a while) and …… does it lay flat or in a triangle?
What would I look under if I wanted to look it up on you tube?
Thanks
Hi Lori,
Thanks for reaching out! Folded it is a triangle and unfolded it makes a square! It is designed to be folded into the triangle and worn as a wrap! What type of help are you looking for on youtube?
Best,
Gianna
Hi,
Getting started and I’m reading entire pattern to get the overview. The second to last row in triangle 1 simply says K1. Is that a typo? Should it be knit across?
Thank you
Hi Colette,
Thanks for reaching out! That is not an error it is correct, since you are working short rows for this wrap some rows will not be worked all the way across! For that row you are only K1 and then moving onto the next row (Next Row: K1, *knit next stitch with its wrap (see Notes), repeat from * to last stitch, k1.)
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
I made the mistake of ordering the Quill worsted weight! Is there anyway of altering the pattern to accommodate the larger yarn? I would not object to a larger throw size but I don’t know if that would translate into appropriate dimensions. My second question would be, can I return the unopened skeins and get the fingering weight instead? Thanks in advance for your response.
Hi Nilda,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly re-gauge the pattern to accommodate a larger yarn, however worsted weight is quite a bit heavier than fingering weight! If you would like to do that I would suggest starting off by working a gauge swatch with an appropriate needle size and comparing that to the written gauge, you can then make adjustments from there! If not, you can absolutely return the yarn and exchange it for the fingering weight Linen Quill instead, as long as it is in the original skein form!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks so much. Yes, you are very helpful and it is always nice to do business with you!!
Taking my time having read through these replies, was helpful. And i still need to be sure, if i am making the larger size, i will be buying 3 skeins of each color, right?
Thanks a lot for your guidance!
Barbara
Oh, and if I wanted to be sure it really really wrapped around the body, for a nice easy quiet sit, would you recommend a larger needle, like a US 4 or would that alter the fabric of the finished piece too much?
Thanks again.
Barbara
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! For the larger size you will need 3 skeins of each color! Going up to a US 4 would make the fabric a bit more open/not as dense, it would also enlarge the wrap a bit. I recommend working a gauge swatch with both a US 3 and a US 4 and compare the two and decide which needle to use based on which you prefer!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions going forward!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love the Blue Blue color. What color would you recommend for Color B?
Hi Jeanie,
Thanks for reaching out! Blue Blue is such a beautiful color! I think it would be great paired with Stillwater Blue, Mountain Bluebird, or Dark Denim!
Please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi!
I love all the colors! I was thinking of using 3 or 4 colors for the Half + Half Triangle shawl. Since I haven’t started the pattern yet, I am trying to figure out how to add a 3rd or 4th color….
I thought maybe I would cast on with Color 1, knit a few rows, then change to Color 2 for the rest of that triangle section. I would then start Color 3 for the other triangle and work it, then change to Color 4 for a few rows before bind off.
Would this work?
Hi Phyddy,
Thanks for reaching out! That such a fun idea! I think that would certainly work! This pattern is pretty straight forward so it is a great option to experiment with different colors!
Please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello! I would love to use pink pop with dark denim. However the dark denim is out of stock. Do you have any idea of when it will be restocked?
Any suggestions for something similar to go with the pink pop? (The Stillwater blue looks grey on my IPad- does it have a hint of blue in it? )
Thanks for your assistance! I want to get the yarn ordered but cannot decide on something other than the dark denim.
Kind regards,
Kathleen
Hi Kathleen,
Thanks for reaching out! Luckily Dark Denim should be back in stock within the next month! The best way to be notified is to enter your email on the Linen Quill product page under Dark Denim and we will send you an email as soon as it is available on the site! I think Pink Pop and Dark Denim would be a really nice combination but I also love the idea of Pink Pop and Stillwater Blue! Stillwater Blue is a beautiful color and does have blue in it! Another alternative I would suggest is Blue Pansy!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Do you think this would also work if I use a dishcloth pattern that starts with 1-2 stitches and increases every row, then which I get to the width I want, change colors and start decreasing? Or maybe the short row division makes the fold better? Hope that makes sense. Thank you.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! Due to the special construction of this wrap, it is much different than the dishcloth pattern! Working short rows keeps the stitches live so that when you bring in the 2nd color you simply knit the row with the full amount of stitches available. Working increases or decreases to create the shaping would change the construction quite a bit since it would change the overall number of stitches and you would likely then need to pick up stitches to work the 2nd triangle.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
The video you have on wrp-t is for stockinette and I would like to see what the stitch is supposed to look like in garter. My wrp-t is loose and long and hard to see the wrap. So many are switching to german short rows but I rather keep true to the pattern (nothing wrong with switching!) Do you have a video showing wrap and turn in garter stitch similar to the pattern instructions?
Hi Ana,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we don’t have a tutorial showing wrp-t in garter, however the technique is worked the exact same way regardless of if you are working in stockinette or garter stitch!
Warmly,
Gianna
Ana,
I have found an excellent video on YouTube that shows how to work the “wrap and turn” and “removing the wrap” techniques for a garter stitch project like the Half+Half Triangles wrap.
The video is uploaded on the YouTube channel named Garnstudio DROPS Design, and the title of the video is “How to knit short rows in garter st with wrap”. The video has no sound, but it is so clearly presented that sound is not necessary. Another benefit of this video is that the work is done using 2 different colors of yarn, where you can really see the wrap and so forth. Good luck with it.
Hello- I’ve been watching to see if anyone tries to knit the half+half triangle wrap a size between the small and larger version . I am only 5’ tall so 43”x43” seems very big. Would casting on 216 stitches equal about 36×36”? Would that just be 2 skeins of each color? Thank you,Cindy
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for reaching out! That sounds like a great idea, and 2 skeins of each color should be plenty for a 36×36 version!
We would love to know how this turns out, so please keep us updated!
Warmly,
Gianna
If I slip three stitches to make a nicer edge, do I need to adjust the pattern in any way? I am specifically wondering whether it changes when I would begin increases or decreases? Thank you.
Ann
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing in! If you want to do a slip stitch boarder I would only recommend slipping one stitch at the beginning, not three since that could interfere with the short rows!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’d love to make this wrap. I’m thinking of knitting it in Wild Violet and Purple Smoke, or Wild Violet and Bougainvillea. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Also, how long will it take to get the yarn shipped to Connecticut? I have a time issue for receiving the yarn.
Hi Ronda,
Thanks for writing in! I think either of those options would be beautiful for this pattern! The Wild Violet and Bougainvillea Pink will be more of a pop and brighter overall, and Wild Violet and Purple Smoke will be a bit more of a contrast!
You can find the shipping information on our Shipping Page. We offer several options:
Economy: 8-12 business days
Standard: 2-7 business days (see map on the shipping page for more specific delivery times depending on the state you are in)
Express: 2 business days
Expedited: 1 business day
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna! Thanks for your help. I decided to go with the Wild Violet and Purple Smoke. I chose the standard shipping, and my package should be delivered tomorrow. I can’t wait!
Hi Ronda,
I love that combination, I think Wild Violet and Purple Smoke will look so beautiful together! I can’t wait to hear how this turns out!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you for this beautiful pattern! The Linen Quill is fantastic to work with. I’m following the pattern and am looking at my w&t. It seems like we are doing a w&t every other stitch. Is this correct? Thanks for your help!
Hi Trish,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you are building a triangle, you will be working across the row to the last 3 stitches, and place a marker that will be your guide for the future wrap and turns, you will then k1 and wrp-t. Once you have turned you will then knit to the end of the row, you will then work back to your marker, remove the marker, then wrp-t again. Then when you turn the work you will K1, place the marker, then knit to the end of the row.
So you will continue to work to the marker, remove the marker, wrp-t, and then k1 and replace the marker so that your wrp-t will be offset by 1 stitch each time!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hello, I just finished the first triangle and am completely confused as how to start the second triangle. Row one of the second triangle says knit to the end. How and what number of stitches am I knitting in the first row and how do I connect to the second color to the first triangle? Is there a video that shows this construction and how to start the second color triangle? I’m very visual so videos help me a lot. Thank you for your help.
Hi Deb,
Thanks for reaching out! To join your second triangle, you’ll simply join your new color of yarn and knit across the stitches that you just completed in the previous row in your first color. Once you’ve knit across that first row, you’ll begin working the short rows, which will create the second triangle in much the same way that you did the first. There isn’t a video of this particular pattern, but if you’d like more detailed help, feel free to reach out to us at [email protected]!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hello. Just to clarify…in Triangle 1, what do we do with the wrap when knitting the next row? In other words do the knit with wrap only pertain to Triangle 2?
Hi Adrain,
Thanks for reaching out! You will only knit the wrap when directed to do so, as stated in the pattern, this will happen in both triangles 1 and 2!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I love the wrap that cadyjax did in Butterscotch & Pale Mushroom. I didn’t see Butterscotch listed. Is it discontinued? If so, is Tumerick a close substitute? Would you also have an estimate time of when Pale Mushroom will be restocked? I signed up for the restock notification. I think this would be a great project to take on vacation. Thank you!
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern is so fun and has become so popular, and I agree it would be perfect to travel with! Unfortunately, Butterscotch Yellow has been discontinued, but Turmeric Yellow is a comparable alternative. Although I don’t have a firm eta on when we will have Pale Mushroom back in stock, my best guess would be in the next month or so. Alternatively, if you don’t want to wait, you could use Rose Granite, it is a very similar shade to Pale Mushroom but a bit rosier toned!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Do you think it would be possible for a swatch tutorial to be filmed with the short rows for this exact pattern? I am not finding the example video helpful as it’s not explaining this pattern.
Hi Allie,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t currently have the resources available to make a tutorial for this specific pattern, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team. In the meantime, what seems to be the issue you are experiencing? I am happy to help explain!
Warmly,
Gianna
For those of us who are allergic to wool and other animal yarns, it would be great to offer a suggestion for an acceptable substitute yarn in your patterns. Can you suggest a substitute for the Linen Quill that might work up similarly? Thanks…
Hi Janet,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest using our absolutely lovely new yarn, Santolina! It is a fingering weight with a similar feel and drape to Linen Quill, but it is composed of 70% organically grown cotton, 20% rayon from bamboo, 10% hemp!
It should work up perfectly with this pattern, but I do recommend checking your gauge prior to beginning.
Warmly,
Gianna
So happy there is a wool free alternative!
I am going to order the WellWater.. do you think the Heirloom White or GreyOwl would be better for the other side. It’s hard to tell what colour the fleck is in the WellWater.
Thanks,
Carol
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! Well Water is a beautiful color and has lighter flecks of grey! I think either Heirloom White or Grey Owl would look great, but I think I would lean more towards Grey Owl for a beautiful contrast between the greys!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you!
Hi,
I am almost finished with Triangle 1 using Heirloom White, which means I will then only have 2 stitches on my needle after wrapping all stitches but those 2, right? Do I then break the White color at that point?
I am totally confused how to start Triangle 2 with Pink Pop. Do I start:
With Pink knitting the remaining 2 White stitches back and forth, resolving one White short row stitch at a time until I’ve worked back and forth until all 260 are resolved?
OR
Do I knit (resolve) all 260 stitches of the White short row stitches (in my case GSR) and THEN start on Triangle 2, working 2 stitches at one end, doing a GSR and resolving it the next row? If I can just figure out how to start Triangle 2 with Pink, I will be up and running, I’m sure:)
As you can tell, I need help getting started!
Thank you so much.
Hi Phyddy,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, you will cut Yarn A, and then with Yarn B (Pink Pop) you will simply begin triangle 2 by just knitting every stitch (all 260.) This will be Row 1 of Triangle 2 (working over the right side), and for row 2 you will do the exact same thing, working across every stitch (now working over the wrong side.)
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
I have completed my first beautiful triangle using German short rows. I don’t understand how to use this method on the 2nd triangle. Can you start me off?
Hi Sylvia,
Thanks for reaching out! There shouldn’t be any differences between the two triangles, so if you used German Short Rows instead of the Wrap + Turn method you will simply work the second triangle as you did the first, substituting the wrp-t. If you need additional help on how to substitute a German Short Rows for a Wrap + Turn please see our Short Rows: German Short Rows tutorial!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Love seeing so many knitters with questions. I’m just starting the piece, did a 20 stitch swatch and I’m still trying to figure out the instructions as far as right side/wrong side go. The instructions indicate that the odd rows are the right side. However the directions for the WRP-T are on row 4 which should be a wrong side row and the directions for WRP-T within the pattern instruct me to wrap and “turn work so wrong side is facing you”. Since row 4 is a wrong side row I don’t know how I can wrap on wrong side and have wrong side facing me after turning? I’m sure I’m missing something very obvious! Thank you!
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! The instruction section discusses the wrp-t in general details, but this pattern is a bit different than the general rules for wrp-t since this is worked in garter stitch, and the wrp-t happen on the wrong side of the fabric for triangle 1 and the right side of the fabric for triangle 2! So specifically you can ignore the line “turn work so wrong side is facing you” since this is a garter stitch pattern and will be working the wraps on both sides of the fabric.
I hope this makes sense and clears things up!
Gianna
Thank you! That is what I thought and wanted to be sure before I made a triangle. Need to get started so I can post it before 10/15. I’m using Blue Pansy and Lavender Opal. Love all the Linen Quill colors!
Hi Mary,
Glad I could help! That sounds like such a beautiful color combination, I am so excited to see all of the entries for the KAL!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I am planning to do German short rows and I’ve watched your video tutorial. My question is, when it says “go to the point of the wrap and turn, then do one more stitch” does that mean on row 2 I knit until I have 2 stitches, instead of the 3 stitches on the written directions? Thank you!
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct, so for row 2, you will knit until you have 2 stitches left instead of 3!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Do you have any photos of the smalller version?
Hi Maryanne,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m afraid that we don’t have any photos of the smaller version, but it will be the same basic shape as the larger version with a finished length and width that is a little more than 10″ shorter (the larger size is 43″ square, while the smaller is 31 3/4″ square). I also wanted to mention that there’s currently a knit-along in process for this pattern, and lots of people are posting some wonderful photos of their work that you might find helpful! You can take a look on Instagram at @cadyjaxknits or with the hashtag #halfwrapkal to see lots of other Half + Half Triangle Wraps that are in process!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Please tell me where to find the notes on the wrap
Hi Denise,
Thanks for reaching out! The notes mentioned in the pattern can be found just above the pattern instructions themselves, immediately following the Gauge and Sizes sections. They include notes on the Wrap and Turn, Knitting Wraps, and the Construction of the piece itself. I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Kelsey
I am late to the game, as usual. I was wondering if there is a row count for the large wrap? Since the wrap is approx. 61 inches along the fold, and the gauge is 48 rows per 4 inches, then there are approximately 732 rows per triangle, right? I’m not too plussed about having exact symmetry for what I’m planning, but it would help me try to work out some schematics for either more color block stripes or more random strips of the colors for the first triangle. The colors I plan to use are Red Poppy, Tumeric Yellow, Sweet Potato, and Fresh Pickle. My inspiration are the colors of Autumn Sugar Maple Leaves. Fresh Pickle will be the only color for the second triangle. It will be fun figuring it out while I wait for my yarn to arrive! Thanks!
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! That sounds like such a fun combination of colors! Unfortunately, I don’t have an exact number of rows it took to complete this wrap but I would say 732 per triangle sounds about right (based on the gauge of the pattern!)
I can’t wait to hear how this turns out, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m so confused…..i’ve made a sample with 15 stitches….after knitting row 2 (knit to last 3 stitches, place a marker, k1, w.t) …On row 3, I have one stitch and the marker….something is wrong??? Should i drop the marker and knit to the end???
thank you for your help..
Hi Denise,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern works over an even number of stitches, so my best guess for why you are coming up short is because of your did number of stitches. I would suggest stating the swatch over again with an even number!
Warmly,
Gianna
Gianna…..the same happens with 10 stitches…..my question is when i turn to knit row 3….i have 1 stitch and the marker……..do i slide the marker to knit the row…??? thanks for your help…
Hi Denise,
Thanks for your response, I misunderstood your previous question. Basically, when you finish row 2 you will work to the last 3 stitches, place your marker knit 1 and wrp-t. Once you wrap and turn the work, you should begin row 3 with the two stitches already on your right needle (the last stitch of the row plus the stitch you just wrapped) from there, you will simply knit across the row slipping the marker from left to right when you come to it.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Many thanks Gianna….it makes sense….in the pattern, it doesn’t mention slipping the marker….that’s what I did….thank you for confirming it…..
Hi Gianna……i’m still working on my sample…with 10 stitches….After the rows 4-5 repeat the next row says: wrong side – k1, remove marker, wrap-t….I have 2 stitches before the marker…..i have tried twice….still have 2 stitches…..thank you for your help…
Hi Denise,
Thanks for your response! If you can please send this information plus a photo of your work to our customer service team at [email protected] and they can see what may be happening from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
Gianna…..i have decided to use the germain short rows….and it works very well…..thank you for your help….
Loving all the comments but I have one which has not been addressed here – is there anther way when adding the second colour and therefore the 2nd triangle to avoid that ‘stitching’ line in the middle?? I’ve made one already and ordered another batch LOL but b/c I have two contrast colours I’m not so happy about that visible stitched line. For now it’s fine and I’ll just have to half it to cover that line but any suggestions? Maybe also one with some sort of I-cord middle??? Thanks guys!!
Hi Sabine,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, due to the construction of this pattern (specifically the short rows), there isn’t a great way to add the second color without creating a seam without making many adjustments to the pattern. If you are up for a bit of a challenge, I suggest starting off with a swatch and you can certainly play around with some different methods!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi I understand the concept. I am doing short rows . Do you actually work every stitch or every other!?
Thanks susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! You will work every stitch, not every other stitch!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I am knitting a swatch for half & half wrap and 3 needles gave me an inch too wide over 24 stitches. 2 needles not much smaller. Do I go to 1’s? I am usually right on the mark with suggested gauges.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! For all of our patterns (unless otherwise noted) the gauge is measured from the finished project post blocking! So because of this, I would suggest finishing your swatch on the US 3 needles as we used and Block your swatch to the gauge! If it is still coming up too big you can adjust your needle size from there!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am allergic to wool, alpaca, cashmere etc. Can you suggest an alternative yarn for this pattern that is cotton, linen, bamboo, ??
Hi Ann,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest using our lovely Santolina! It is a beautiful blend of 70% organically grown cotton, 20% rayon from bamboo, 10% hemp and it has a very similar drape to Linen Quill, making it a perfect substitute for this pattern! Although it is the same gauge, I do recommend starting off by working a gauge swatch to ensure you are consistent with the pattern prior to beginning.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Thank you! That will be perfect!!
I’ve started knitting the wrap and have a BIG question-is the short rows only on one side? Will the 1st triangle look like it’s 90 degrees? The beg. of the rt. side is knit across to the marker and the wrong side begins with a gsr. Am I following the instructions correctly? Thank you
Hi Norma,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, that is correct, you are making a 90-degree triangle, so you will only be working the short rows on one side of the work!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I might try this at some point, with my great abundance of Peerie from Brooklyn Tweed. It’s a nice way to learn the GSR technique and how to adjust a W&T pattern.
Hi, is it possible to make this shawl using stockinette stitch instead of garter stitch? I’m not a fan of garter stitch…..
Hi Paz,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could certainly work this wrap in stockinette instead of garter stitch, I would just suggest starting off by working a gauge swatch so you will know if you need to make any adjustments to the cast on!
Please let us know how this turns out!
Gianna
I would like to make the wrap 50” square using Linen Quill. Should I cast on more stitches or use a bigger needle? And do you think six skeins will be enough yarn?
Thanks!
Victoria
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for writing in! I think you could increase the size of the wrap either way, but I would lean towards casting on more stitches, in order to maintain the texture and drape of the original design. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if you need help with this step please visit our tutorial All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the resulting number of stitches.
As for the number of skeins, I think that 6 will still work, since you’re not increasing the size drastically. But if you’re worried about running out of yarn, I would go ahead and buy 8 skeins. Worst case is you’ll have some extra yarn!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for your reply Lili. Do you know when Kiln Red and Red Poppy will be back in stock? I think those are the colors I want to use to make the half + half triangle wrap.
Victoria
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for your response! Although I don’t have a firm eta, we should have Kiln Red and Red Poppy available within the next month! The best way to stay notified is to add your email on the Linen Quill product page under the colors you are interested in, once they are available on our site again we will send you an email right away!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Okay I don’t think I’m doing the wrap and turn correctly – I end up with extra stitches?
Hi Rhonda,
Thanks for reaching out! Short rows can certainly be tricky, but fortunately, we have a wonderful tutorial for them. Our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial is a great resource for the technique, and it may be helpful in your case to find out what’s going wrong! One thing to note is that since the pattern is in garter stitch, you’ll only need to follow the directions for the wrap and turn on the knit side.
All the best,
Lili
My question is about the direction the garter rows run in both triangles. I’ve seen lots of closeup photos that show the beginning of the second color with the second triangle. The photos show the garter rows of both triangles running parallel (in the same direction with each other), but some photos show them as perpendicular. How are they intended to be? I prefer the parallel way. If the second triangle is started at the wrong end of triangle one, will that ‘flip’ the direction of the garter rows to perpendicular?
Also, please confirm, all the wrapped stitches of triangle one are picked up with color one, not the second color, correct?
Thank you so much!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out. I can confirm that the garter rows run parallel between the different colors! In some of the photos, it may look like they run perpendicular, but that’s just due to how the wrap was folded or draped for that picture.
Starting at the opposite end of triangle 1 will also not flip the garter rows to perpendicular. The pattern actually doesn’t allow for starting the second triangle in the wrong place! Once you finish the final row of the first triangle, all your stitches will be live on your needles, so you just need to join in your next color to get started on the second triangle.
I can confirm that all the wrapped stitches of either triangle are picked up with the same color they were knit with. You will pick up all your wraps for triangle 1 on the final row, which is before you join in your second color. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Thank you for your response! And thank you for confirming that all wraps are picked up with the same color yarn. There is so much out there on social media, and some pics show people picking the wraps up with the second color. Of course I realize there are many ways to ‘vary’ from the written pattern, but I wanted to hear it from the source, from you!
Also, as for the direction of garter rows, thank you for confirming that they do run parallel. I understand what you mean about the pics that show the wrap folded or draped a certain way could make it LOOK like they run perpendicular. But I am referring to pics online where people show a closeup of the beginning of their second color (no draping or folding of shawl, just a tiny second triangle starting) and it looks perpendicular. I watched Jackie’s, of CadyJax, video tutorial on doing the GSR for this shawl, and her second triangle rows look so perpendicular, so I definitely had to ask you! I also think she picked up her wraps with the second color, but I could be mistaken about that, and that’s neither here nor there, as I understand of course that it COULD be done that way if someone wanted to lol!
Again, thank you so much for your answers to my questions! And I will definitely do a small sample swatch to see how it goes, and to gain more confidence, before I start this project.
Thank you!!
Hi Lisa,
I’m so glad that my answers helped out! I believe you’re right that many people are making some modifications to the pattern as they go along, which would definitely explain the variety in the pictures you’ve seen online. But yes, I can confirm from the source that, in the way we wrote the pattern, all the wraps are picked up with the same color!
I think I also can explain why the garter rows can look perpendicular, especially when you’re just beginning the second triangle. When you start the first short rows, they don’t add much height to the side of the triangle. This makes them seem as if they’re perpendicular, because they haven’t had the time to accumulate in height in relation to the full rows you will have just knit, as the short rows from the first side of the triangles have had already. So as you knit more short rows, the height on the side of the triangle will continue to increase, which will differentiate the short rows from the initial two full rows, and the garter rows will look more and more parallel! I hope this makes sense–this was a difficult concept to describe in words!
I also think making a small sample swatch is a wonderful idea. I actually made one myself while answering your first comment, since I have not actually made this wrap yet!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Aha, I think you’re onto something about why those rows might appear to be perpendicular in the start of triangle number two!! That makes a lot of sense! And I have to really thank you for mini-swatching in order to help answer my questions, that is very kind of you, thank you so much for all of your help!
I would love to make this pattern but am intimidated by the small sized needles. Also, I’ve never used fingering yarn, only worsted, so I’m worried that this will take me years to complete. Do you have a suggestion for doubling the yarn and using larger needles, or perhaps you have a worsted weight similar type of yarn that could be used?
Hi Caitlin,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely knit this pattern with any weight yarn! The only thing you’ll need to do is modify the cast-on number, so that your wrap comes out to the right dimensions. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if you need help with this step, please visit our tutorial). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width of the diagonal of the wrap (43″ for the smaller size, and 61″ for the larger) and then cast on the resulting number of stitches! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Lili,
I am confused as to how you got to a cast on of 260 stitches using this calculation of 61″ x 6 stitches per inch for the pattern as stated?
Thanks for any help you can give.
Sherryl
Hi Sherryl,
Ah, thanks so much for pointing that out! My mistake–I meant to say “Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width of the cast-on edge (31.75″ for the smaller size, and 43″ for the larger) and then cast on the resulting number of stitches!” Apologies for the confusion.
All the best,
Lili
Hi Caitlyn , I feel as you do about the tiny needles and yarn for the half & half wrap. I will be curious to know what you decided to do with yours. As I would like to do the same.
Thank you,
Kathleen
Thanks so much, Lili. I am new to your yarns, via The Gentle Knitter. Do you have a worsted weight that corresponds with Linen Quill?
Caitlin in Vermont
Hi Caitlin,
We absolutely do! In fact, we have a worsted version of Linen Quill which is called Linen Quill Worsted and is made of the same fibers in the thicker weight! If you like the look of Linen Quill but want to go with a thicker yarn, then Linen Quill Worsted would be my first recommendation. I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Today I posted my thoughts about this remarkable project on Twitter:
“Knitting this classic wrap is creating an ever-growing community of knitters unified by the spare beauty and simple process of it all. For me, it has become a metaphor for these austere times. It can be likened to joining a pilgrimage along The Camino.”
I am so grateful for the positive energy that the Half + Half Triangles phenomenon is generating in the midst of this pandemic. We’re all sending harmony and unity out into the world, one stitch at a time.
I have a question about terminology used in one of the steps in the instructions for Triangle 2. The term in question is “second to last”.
I researched this term and found two different interpretations for it.
Some sources say that it means the same thing as “next to last”, so that you would do the requisite step for the stitch immediately before the last stitch.
Other sources say that “second to last” means two steps before the last, so that you would do the requisite step two stitches before the last stitch. Which way does the pattern mean the term “second to last”? Thanks for a clarification.
Hi Vivian,
Thanks for reaching out with this question! It is certainly confusing when multiple sources have differing information. In the case of this pattern, what we mean by “second to last stitch” is the stitch directly before the last one. You’ll work each short row, wrapping and turning on the next stitch, until you’ve worked a wrap and turn on every stitch except for the last one. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! I’m knitting a practice swatch for the Half+Half Triangles wrap, and when I reached that point in the pattern I was a bit confused as to what it meant. My practice swatch (30 stitches cast on) is turning out to be a practical way to get ready for the actual project. Great confidence builder, too.
Could I use Cashmere Marino Bloom as a substitute for the linen quill? If so, how would I calculate yarn balls and figure out what needle sizes to use?
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in! Linen Quill is a fingering weight yarn, so it’s a lot thinner than Cashmere Merino Bloom, which is DK weight. But you could absolutely make this pattern work with it, you would just need to adjust your cast-on number! To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if you need help with this step please visit our tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width of the cast-on edge (in this case, either 45 or 61 inches) and cast on the resulting number. I would recommend using needles between sizes US 5 and US 7, but unfortunately, since we haven’t knit up a version of this wrap with Cashmere Merino Bloom, I don’t have a good estimate of how much yarn you would need.
All the best,
Lili
I’ve completed the first triangle, starting the second but having a hard time understanding the “knit the stitch with it’s wrap” and I have watched the tutorial videos. Question- can I just do the second triangle the same as the first, doing the “knit one, wrap and turn”, progressively shortening the rows like triangle one? Would it not turn out the same. Frustrated but loving this wrap! Thank you!
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out! When you work the wrap of a wrap + turn short row, you’ll end up with a little loop of yarn around a knit stitch. When you go to knit this stich, in addition to inserting your right needle into the front leg of the stitch as normal, you will also insert your needle into the front portion of the loop that’s wrapped around it. You will now have two strands of yarn on your needle, and you can just knit these like normal! I hope this helps clarify how to pick up a wrap.
I also wanted to let you know that you will still need to knit stitches along with their wraps while working Triangle 1. This happens on the final row, where you’ll be knitting practically every stitch with its wrap. I would recommend working Triangle 2 as written though, since it will significantly change the construction of the wrap to knit it like Triangle 1! Specifically, the edges of the triangles won’t align correctly, so you’ll get a finished wrap that isn’t a square.
All the best,
Lili
I’m also confused about the last step of triangle 1. *knit next stitch with its wrap*
I’ve tried watching the video but doesn’t help much as it is showing “purl with its wrap “
Is it possible to direct me to a video showing exactly how to knit with its wrap?” I’ve tired following your directions above but doesn’t look right. Thanks!
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for reaching out! The method should work about the same way as we show it in the tutorial when you purl the wrap, except all you need to do is knit the stitch with its wrap! You will do this by inserting your needle through both the wrap and the stitch and then knitting the two together as normal. If you continue to have an issue, please feel free to sign up for our free 1-On-1 Project Help, from there one of our customer service associates can set up a zoom call with you to go over the technique in more detail!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Some had asked this question several months ago, but it was included with another question, and I don’t believe it was ever answered.
My question pertains to these instructions for Triangle 1:
Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have wrapped every stitch except the last two, ending with Row 5.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, remove marker, wrp-t.
Question: What do you do with those last two stitches immediately before proceeding to the Next Row (wrong side)?
Many thanks.
Hi Vivian,
Thanks for writing in. On Row 5, you’ll just be knitting to the end of the row, so after you finish your last Row 5, you can simply turn the work to begin Next Row (wrong side)! The two stitches will still remain on your needles. I hope this clarifies things more!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I’m a novice knitter and want to make this beautiful wrap but I’m having difficulty understanding the instructions after Row 5. Do you keep knitting rows 4 &5 until the yarn is used up? I would appreciate any help.
Thank you.
Hi Madeline,
Thanks for writing in. Yes, after Row 5 in Triangle 1, you just need to repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you get to the final stitch! Because you’re working in short rows, each row essentially decreases by 1 stitch every time you knit a Row 4. This way, the rows get progressively shorter and shorter, until you only have 1 stitch left! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
I’m looking for a Linen Quill color to go with Blue Blue, and I’m leaning towards Blue Pansy. Would those two colors look good together?
Hi Vivian,
Thanks for writing in! I think that Blue Blue and Blue Pansy would look nice together, but the contrast would be very slight. If you’re looking for the two colors to have more contrast, then I would suggest Dark Denim instead of Blue Pansy. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can you tell me which cast on method is suggested for the half & half triangle wrap?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! The pattern doesn’t call for a specific cast-on technique, so feel free to stick with your preferred method of casting on! For example, the Long Tail Cast-On would work great for this pattern. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hi !
If I’m doing German short rows do I follow the pattern right up to the wrap and turn? Being that I still need to k1 prior to the German short row? Thank you for your time and help! Purchasing my yarn as soon as my colors come in! So excited!! Just wanted to make sure I understand so I can actually knit it once I get the yarn 🤣
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out! How exciting! What colors are you planning on using?
Yes, that is correct, you will follow the pattern as written to the wrap and turn, but then you will work a German Short Row in its place! For more information on substituting a German Short Row in place of a Wrap and Turn, I recommend checking out our wonderful German Shirt Rows tutorial!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi there. I’m working on my first one 😊 My yarn color one is going to run out before I’ve finished my first triangle. Is that ok? Should I just add my second color when the first runs out, even if it’s in the first triangle? Thank you and happy holidays!!
Hi HL,
Thanks for reaching out. I would definitely advise against starting Color B before you finish the first triangle. This would result in the first triangle being multiple colors, and you’ll likely run out of Color B before finishing the second triangle! I would recommend buying one more skein of each color to ensure that you have enough of each to finish each triangle.
All the best,
Lili
Hi. M excited to begin this project. Can you tell me what size 3 circular needle to use? Will 32 inch be long enough?
Thank you so much.
Paula
Hi Paula,
Thanks for writing in. I’d recommend using at least 40″ long circular needles, since the wrap gets quite large, especially along the diagonal! It’s possible to knit it on 32″ needles, but your stitches will be cramped. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I wonder if anyone has knit this up in laceweight yarn… I have over 800 yards (2 skeins each) of 2 colors that have been in my stash for years. As long as I get gauge, do you think the yardage will work out for the small size? I have been thinking about this for a week and its like a word problem in math class – I end up with anxiety and no answer that makes sense! 😂😂😂
Hi Gleanne,
Thanks for reaching out. As long as you get the exact same gauge we do, then your project will take the same amount of yardage! So over 800 yards will definitely be enough to make the small size of the wrap. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m also confused about the last step of triangle 1. *knit next stitch with its wrap*
I’ve tried watching the video but doesn’t help much as it is showing “purl with its wrap “
Is it possible to direct me to a video showing exactly how to knit with its wrap?” I’ve tried following your directions in the comments above but doesn’t look right when I do it. Thanks!
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for writing in. If you jump to about 2:35 in our video tutorial, we demonstrate how to pick up a knit stitch with its wrap! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Well, this help but the pattern said “This step is described at minute 3:29 of our short-row tutorial”. We should all really look at 2:35 in the video, not 3:29, is that right? I, too, was thoroughly confused!
Why is there a K1 between the wrap and turns on the first half, but not the second half? Won’t the second half be larger and more dense if every stitch is wrapped and turned. The first half says to wrap and turn, then K1, place marker. Confused !
Hi Mimi,
Thanks for reaching out. On the first triangle, each short row removes one stitch, so you’re starting from the longest short row, and will end up on the shortest. On the second triangle, it’s the opposite, so you’re starting from the shortest short row, adding one stitch with each subsequent short row, and ending on the longest. But all the wraps will still be one stitch apart on either triangle! The “k1” for the first triangle only occurs in Row 2, which is essentially a set-up row for the rest of the short rows. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I’m a bit confused. Your reply says, “The “k1″ for the first triangle only occurs on Row 2”. But Row 5 for the first triangle also calls for a “k1”. Row 5 states in full, “K1, place marker, knit to the end of the row.” Since Row 4 and Row 5 are repeated a number of times in the first triangle, I hope the Row 5 instructions are correct as written in the pattern. Would you be so kind as to clarify what appears to be a discrepancy between your reply and the pattern itself. I hope this question makes since. Thanks, Lili.
Hi Vivian,
Thanks for checking in about this! I’m sorry my instructions in my previous comment were confusing, but the pattern is definitely correct! I was trying to explain the difference between Row 2 and Row 4, since they function in the same way, but need to be written slightly differently, since Row 2 is essentially a set-up row. The “k1” in Row 5 serves an entirely different purpose, which is why I didn’t mention that one in my earlier comment. The “k1” in Row 5 is used to reposition the stitch marker. I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much for clearing that up, Lili. It’s the only time a “k1” appears in the set-up rows. Since I had knitted a small version of the entire wrap as my swatch, I figured the pattern had to be correct since the swatch came out fine. By the way, my first full-size wrap is looking lovely and is such a joy to work on. A real Zen experience.
Hi-
Any yarn substitution suggestions ?? The linen is too scratchy for me. I can do merino wool.
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out. Most of our other fingering weight yarns will work for this pattern! In particular, I think Line Weight or Posy would be very nice substitutes. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m so excited to knit this project but having a problem deciding on colors. I want the wrap to be neutral. Colors I’m considering are Honey Pink, Wheat Flour and Pale Oats. Is the Honey Pink really pink? The Oatmeal Gray is beautiful but really don’t want gray in this wrap. Thank you!
Hi Cecelia,
Thanks for reaching out! Honey Pink is true to the color shown of it on the Linen Quill product page! It is not pink, more of a neutral creamy honey tone! I also think it would go perfectly with Wheat Flour and Pale Oats!
I hope this helps, and please let us know how this turns out!
Gianna
I am super late to the bandwagon on this, mostly because I was having a hard time understanding the pattern. Last night I finally made a 15 stitch swatch and it did finally make sense. However, I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong, but only 2 of my corners are “pointy” (the beginning and the end). For some reason my two ends of the joined triangles are flat. Can you help me figure out what I am doing wrong?
Once I get that figured out I’m ready to go!
Now, if I could only decide on the colors!!!!!
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m happy to hear that you’re getting started on a Half + Half Triangles Wrap! It would be easier for us to help troubleshoot though if we can visualize your project. Would you be able to send some photos of your work so far to [email protected]? That way we’ll be able to give more specific advice!
Thanks,
Lili
A quick question on adding an i-cord edge to this pattern. Would you slip 3 stitches on both the right side and wrong side to create the edge or just the right side? Thank you!
Hi Nikhila,
Thanks for reaching out. I would actually recommend adding an attached i-cord around the border after you’ve finished knitting the wrap!
All the best,
Lili
Would this pattern work with an acrylic yarn and if so any suggestions?
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for your question!
You can absolutely use a fingering weight acrylic yarn as a substitute for Linen Quill! We don’t currently carry acrylic yarns, but we do have Posy, a machine-washable yarn that would be a perfect substitute for Linen Quill. Posy is spun with a blend of 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon, great for a Half and Half Triangles Wrap! The cashmere gives this yarn a lovely drape and buttery soft feel!
I hope this helps! Please feel free to reach out with any other questions!
All the best,
Carly
I would love to add icord edges to this wrap on all sides. What would be the best way to achieve that outcome?
Thanks!
Hi Ann!
Thank you for your question. To add an I-cord to the edge of your wrap, we suggest following our Attached I-cord Tutorial! This attaches the I-cord after the fact, which will help keep your short rows intact for the triangles in each side of this wrap.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Help! I have watched tutorials on this wonderful wrap, I have made my first wrap, and I am not a newbie knitter, but my first triangle came out significantly smaller than my second triangle! It’s a long rectangle instead of a square. Do you have any immediate thoughts as to what I did wrong? Thanks!
Hi Mimi,
Thanks for writing in about this! It sounds like your gauge might be a bit off between the two triangles, so I would recommend measuring that for each one and comparing it to the gauge we specify for this project (24 stitches and 48 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch).
It might also be helpful to send us a photo of your work at [email protected] so we can better visualize what’s going wrong!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m ready to start my second half and half wrap but this time with wrap and turns instead of german short rows. I’m waiting on my yarn order (peony pink/peach stone) but would order more yarn if you got bougainvillea pink back in. Is that ever coming back? I love the pics of projects with that combined with fresh pickle! Thanks.
Hi Diane!
Thank you for your comment! Unfortunately, we have decided to stop carrying the color Bougainvillea Pink. While we loved it, not everyone else felt the same, so we have made the sad decision to stop producing it. We do carry this color in our Worsted Twist and Super Soft Merino, if you wanted to add this color to your stash in a different weight of yarn, and Linen Quill in Pink Pop is a very similar color, too. If you would like any other color pairing recommendations, I would be happy to offer some!
All the best,
Margaret
I’m confused has to where I start the wrap and turn. Do I start it on the side of where my tail of the yarn is (from where I casted on) Or is it on the other side?
Hi Jill,
Thanks for reaching out. The first short row is Row 2, which is a wrong side row! On this row, you’ll knit all the way to the last 3 stitches, place a stitch marker, knit 1 more stitch, and then work the wrap + turn. If you did a long tail cast-on, this would be near to the tail. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
…why is the video for the wrap & turn instructions for a stockinette piece? the video is absolutely no help for a garter piece, which the half & half is…
Hi Gillian,
Thanks for writing in. To work wrap + turn short rows in garter stitch, all you’ll need to do is follow the same instructions for short rows on the knit side of stockinette, except do not bring the yarn to the back before you turn! Since it’s the same steps other than that, we linked this tutorial. I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
I’m at the point where I’m finishing knitting Color 1. The instructions read:
“Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have wrapped every stitch except the last two, ending with Row 5.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, remove marker, wrp-t”.
If I’m ending with a Row 5, I have knitted to the end of the row and my last two unwrapped stitches are at the other end of my work, and so is the marker. I cannot, therefore, “K1, remove marker, wrp-t”. There is NO marker to remove. Am thoroughly confused.
Hi Christina,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m sorry to hear that you’ve been running into trouble though! I’m not sure, but it sounds like the stitch marker wasn’t being removed in row 4 and replaced in row 5, but it might be helpful for us to see some pictures of your project. If you’d like, you can email us at [email protected] and we would be happy to help you get your wrap back on track!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hi!,
I need a little hand holding, because I want to do my best with this “iconic” wrap and I want to be sure that I won’t run out of yarn if I make this just a little larger than the small size….maybe a “medium”. I’ve never used yarn this fine and the skeins look so tiny, but the labels must be correct.
I’m using Holst Noble yarn (which is discontinued) from my stash. Each skein of Noble is 364 yds. and 50 grams. I have 3 skeins of each of the 2 colors. (364×3=1,092 yds)
My question is: how many stitches would I cast on, if I’m at gauge, to make a wrap that’s a little larger?
Also, would a larger needle size help with giving me a larger wrap?
Maybe I should just stick to the “big” small size.
Hi Joyce!
Thank you for your questions! To figure out your cast on amount for a larger wrap, I suggest knitting a gauge swatch with the needle size you’d like to use to see how many stitches you are getting per inch. Then, you can calculate how many stitches to cast on for your desired width based on how many stitches you have per inch. Since you are working with a discontinued yarn, though, I think knitting the pattern as written with a slightly bigger needle size might be the best way to conserve yarn while making a bigger wrap. The yardage you have is quite similar to the bigger size in this pattern, so I think knitting the bigger size of this pattern with a US 4 or US 5 would be the best way to achieve a larger wrap with the same amount of yardage!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you, Margaret.
Your thoughts on this? Will casting on 220 or 230 instead of 190 stitches be safe to do instead of just using a larger size needle to create a wrap that’s a little larger. The yarn is so fine I wonder if the fabric will look lacey with a larger needle. Maybe I’m over thinking this. I just want to be certain I’ll have enough yarn.
Hi Joyce,
Yes, you can cast on 220 or 230 stitches with the regular needle size, and you shouldn’t run out of yarn!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for your kind reply. I’m confidant now and will cast on!!!
If I wish to use Santolina for this wrap, could you suggest some color combinations as it is more difficult to visualize on the computer screen. Also how many skeins for this yarn to do the larger wrap?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out. I would be happy to give you some suggestions for your Half + Half Wrap in Santolina! Here are some color pairings that I think work especially well together: Peach Lily + Red Smoke, Gray Owl + Heirloom White, Stormy Sea + Golden Pollen, and Juniper Berry + Ice Pond. You would need 4 skeins of each color to make the larger wrap!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for the help
ive been wanting to cast on this wrap for so long, but i cant use linen. so im thinking of posy. im thinking of trying black cherry. what do you think would go best with that and how many skeins would i need for the large wrap? thanks so much
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out. Black Cherry is my favorite color of Posy, and I actually just finished a project where I used it alongside Pink Smoke, so that’s my first thought for a color to pair it with! Some other options that I think would be nice are Heirloom White, Tawny Gold, and Pink Nectar.
In answer to your other question, you would need 6 skeins of each color of Posy for the Big wrap (and 8 skeins of each color for the Bigger wrap). Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
HI. I think I somehow dropped a wrap and turn stitch. Everything fell off my needle. I got it back on but it seems off now. How can I fix this?
Thanks.
Hi Holly,
Thank you for your post, though I’m so sorry to hear your stitches fell off your needle! We’d be happy to help get your project back on track, however we’d love to see a photo of your work to get a better idea of what’s going on. Please feel free to send us a photo of your project to [email protected] so we can help!
All the best,
Margaret
Color question. I’m thinking of knitting a H+HTW using Linen Quill in pale pink and deep yellow. I’ve narrowed my choices to:
Honey Pink + Turmeric Yellow
Honey Pink + Butterscotch Yellow
Peony Pink + Turmeric Yellow
Peony Pink + Butterscotch Yellow
I’d appreciate having your opinion about which pairing is the prettiest.
Many thanks.
Hi Vivian!
Thank you for reaching out! We’re excited to hear you’re planning to make a Half and Half Wrap of your own. Of the color combinations you recommended, my personal favorite is Honey Pink and Butterscotch Yellow, as they have a similar tone and are both warm colors. We also just released some new colors of Linen Quill, so I wanted to mention Honey Pink and Raw Sienna as a possible color combination that may catch your eye!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you for sharing your favorite from my list, Margaret. I’d had a hard time seeing the difference between Turmeric Yellow and Butterscotch Yellow from photos, so I was at a standstill. You actually chose the color pairing that seemed most pleasing to me from photos.
You’re very welcome, Vivian, and I’m glad to hear we both gravitated toward the same color pairing!
Happy knitting,
Margaret
Just a quick clarifying question. I think I might have an incident of chemo brain: I’m doing German Short rows. There’s supposed to be one worked stitch between each wrapped stitch, correct? Or should every single stock be wrapped?
So I’m doing this on row 5 RN: knit to marker, remove marker, turn, German short row, knit one, place marker, knit to end of round.
Thank you for any help and letting me know if I’m doing it wrong before I get too far in!!! 💖
I figured it out!! I found the KAL that happened last year and a great YouTube video (catyjax? Again, chemo brain).
Thank you!!!
Hi Jillian,
I’m so glad to hear that you found a helpful video! In general, the rule of thumb for substituting in German short rows in place of wrap + turn short rows is this: Knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “knit until 3 stitches remain, wrap and turn,” you’ll actually need to “knit until 2 stitches remain, make double stitch.” Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Please…it’s so difficult to decide, which neutral best compliments Rosewood Pink? Undertones are hard for me to see.
And the same question for Vintage Celadon?
Thank you so, so much.
Joyce
Hi Joyce,
Color decisions can certainly be very tricky! I’d recommend Wheat Flour to go with Rosewood Pink, since it’s a very warm off-white and will go well with the warmness of the pink. To pair with Vintage Celadon, I’d recommend Pale Oats, which is a bright cream color, or Kettle Black, if you wanted to pair it with a darker color. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I knit my large H&H with size 4 needle and had 1-1/2 skeins left over. I’d love to use all the 6 skeins or most of the 6th. What size needle should I use? Should I go up in needle size or cast on more stitches. Trying to figure it out. Thanks- I love knitting this wrap💕
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m glad you’re loving this pattern! I’m knitting one myself right now and I love it too. Did you get a chance to measure your gauge before beginning? Based on the yardage of this pattern, you should be ending with just over 1/2 a skein of Color A left over (and roughly the same for Color B), but it sounds like you have a lot more than that. This could be due to your gauge being too small, and therefore each stitch using less yarn than intended. I’d recommend double checking your gauge and then swatching with a larger needle if need be!
All the best,
Lili
Which bind off did you use for this wrap?
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for your question! We just used a regular bind off knit wise. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hello! I’m trying to construct this wrap as a fade between six different colors, and I’m super bad at visualizing things in 3D, so I’m having trouble envisioning the construction to properly build my fade. When looking at this as a full square, which edge of the wrap is where you cast on, and in which direction are you knitting? Thank you so much!
Hi M,
Thanks for reaching out! When you knit this pattern, you cast on along one entire edge of the finished square and knit upwards. The short rows create the triangular shape. When you’re done with Triangle 1, you’ll begin Triangle 2 in the opposite manner, beginning from the bottom corner and knitting upwards to the top edge where you’ll bind off along the entire edge. Hope this helps you envision the construction of this pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much, that’s super helpful! Excited to cast on!!
I am knitting the wrap in the called for Linen Quill using size 4 needles and would like to knit my next one in Linen Quill Worsted. I’m also using the GSR technique. I have no clue how to figure out the needle size and number of stitches to cast on. My current one is between the small size and the large size. Thanks so much.
Hi Bobbie,
Thanks for reaching out. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like your wrap to be and cast on the nearest whole number. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
We recommend using sizes US 6 or 7 for Linen Quill Worsted, but you can use whatever needle size you prefer! I’ve used size US 8 with this yarn before and the knit fabric had a lovely texture, but it was less dense than it would be on smaller needles. I’d recommend trying out a few different needle sizes to figure out which you prefer working with!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much, Lili❗️
Sorry if this question has been asked, I looked for it and did not find it. Why are the wraps done on the wrong side of triangle one but down on the right side of triangle two? Or am I reading the pattern incorrectly?
Hi Jen,
That’s a great question, and I don’t believe it’s been asked before (at least, recently)! This was a design choice. Having the wraps done on opposite sides of each triangle actually creates the neatest looking seam between colors on the right side of the wrap. It might seem unconventional, but it actually has the best results out of all the options!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much! I knew there had to be an excellent reason.
You’re very welcome, Jen! I had the same question when I first got to know this pattern, and it took some swatching for me to realize why it’s written the way it is.
All the best,
Lili
Could you please tell me roughly how much yarn to reserve for the long tail cast on for the large size wrap?
Hi Priscilla,
Thanks for your comment! We generally recommend measuring out a tail that’s 3.5 times the width of what you plan to make! For the large-size wrap, the width before blocking is 37.75″ so leaving 133″ for the cast-on should give you plenty to work with. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Hello, I plan to start this pattern very soon. The only thing I would like to do differently is add a three stitch icord border while I’m knitting (not added after it’s finished). Would I need to add three stitches to the total cast on? Thanks in advance for your help.
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing in! We highly recommend working an attached i-cord after you’re finished, if you’d like that edge on this project. It quickly becomes very complicated to try to add one while knitting, and you would also need to do an i-cord cast-on and i-cord bind-off to create an i-cord that travels all the way around the wrap. But if you add an attached i-cord afterwards, it’s extremely easy to make the i-cord extend the entire way around! If you’re unfamiliar with the attached i-cord technique, we have a great tutorial right here.
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
Is there a “best”way to join yarn in this project? I’m sure someone has asked before, but I didn’t find this question perusing through the comments.
I’m wondering if adding yarn at the beginning of a row will add a thicker selvedge. Any tips on this will be GREATLY appreciated!
Hi Joyce,
We recommend leaving your yarn tails loose when joining a new skein, and then weaving them in later! Here’s our tutorial on adding a new skein, and here’s our tutorial on weaving in ends, in case either is useful!
All the best,
Lili
…adding to the above comment, how is a new yarn ball joined in this and the striped version of this wrap?
Hi Joyce,
I just saw this comment as well! You can add a new skein in for the striped version in the same manner–just leave a tail to weave in later, and start knitting with the new yarn on the very next stitch!
All the best,
Lili
I am curious why Purl Soho (which I love) recommends the wrap and turn short row method vs the German short row method. I am new to short rows and this is why I am asking.
Thank you,
Peggy
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for reaching out, and that’s a great question! While we generally recommend using whichever method you prefer (they’re usually interchangeable), wrap + turn short rows work much better for the Half + Half Triangles Wrap. They create a more uniform “seam” along the diagonal of the wrap, and the wraps also blend into the garter bumps of the knit fabric. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Do you knit one side separate, then the other, What size length of cable do you use.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! In this pattern, you will knit Triangle 1 first, using short rows, and then you will join in the next color to knit Triangle 2 (also with short rows). I’d recommend using 47-inch long circular needles if you’re knitting the Big size or 60-inch long needles if you’re knitting the Bigger size. They’ll just need to be longer than the length of the diagonal of the wrap, so that your stitches aren’t in danger of falling off the needle!
All the best,
Lili
I’m, finally, starting my second color and have a question. Hopefully you’ll understand what I’m asking.
I work the second triangle with the new color exactly as I did the first (using GSR, I leave two unwrapped stitches at the beginning and at the end). I did this and it looks good.
Now I start on # 2(the new yarn is on)…I knit 3 stitches, turn the work, wrap that third stitch and knit to end of row. Next row knit the three, “resolving” that third stitch, add a stitch, turn work, wrap the new stitch and knit to end of row…and so on until I’ve completed the second triangle. Perhaps I’m over thinking this but I want to make certain I’ve got this right. I wish there was a written pattern using GSRs.
Thank you!
Hi Joyce,
I believe you have the right idea! When using German short rows instead of wrap + turn short rows, all you’ll need to do is knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So for example, if the pattern says “Knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch with its wrap, place marker, wrp-t,” you’ll actually need to “Knit to marker, remove marker, knit next stitch as single stitch, place marker, k1, make double stitch.”
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for this. Just one more question, is there a way to ensure I’ll have nice 90 degree corners on my wrap where the triangles meet? I just made a mini swatch and the fabric looks good, but the corners are not quite right. Using GSRs I am leaving the first 2 and the last 2 stitches unwrapped. Any tips on this?
Thank you very much for your help.
Hi Joyce,
Blocking your wrap is the best way to neaten up your corners! I also wanted to let you know that the corners do look a bit messier on a small swatch, but they actually end up much straighter when you knit the wrap at its full size.
When using German short rows, you should be making the first double stitch in the first triangle on the second to last stitch of the row. There should only be one “unknit” stitch after this, not two! Then, on the second triangle, you should be making the first double stitch on the very second stitch of the row (there should only be one normal stitch before this, not two). If you haven’t already been doing it this way, this will also end up making your corners slightly more crisp!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I ha e some yarn I love but it is DK. Any idea how many yards of that I would need?
Hi Lora,
Thanks for reaching out! This is admittedly a very difficult sort of calculation to do, but I’d be happy to try and give you a ballpark estimate. Can you let me know if you’re planning on making the Big or Bigger version of this wrap?
All the best,
Lili
Hello Lili,
I’m taking advantage of Lora’s question, maybe you can give me your opinion 🙂
I have 4 skeins of beautiful Scottish Aran yarn (182yards each) and I’d love to knit this cosy wrap (the bigger size the better)
Do you think it is a good idea ? And if so, how many stitches would you cast on ? I’m really bad when it comes to this kind of changes…. I can’t even decide if 5mm needles are fine or if I should go bigger.
Thank you in advance!
Hi Rubi,
We’re glad you’re curious about ways to modify this pattern as well! Our advice however is going to depend on a little extra work from your end for the most accurate advice. If you can make a gauge swatch in garter stitch with the needles you plan on using (5mm sounds good, but you can always try out others to determine what you prefer!) and measure the length, width, and weight in grams, then I’d be able to calculate the rest. Let us know what you come up with if you try this!
Before you get to work on that though, I did want to warn you that the large version of this wrap takes a significant amount of yardage due to its size and stitch pattern. If you only have 728 yards of an aran weight yarn, that’s likely not enough to make a very large wrap. You’re probably better off thinking of another project or using a different yarn.
We’ll keep an eye out for your gauge results or if you’d like some other suggestions!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili! Thank you for reaching back out! I want to make the bigger version. Thank you!
Hi Lora,
Thanks for letting me know! I’d say you’ll probably need somewhere in the 700 – 800 yard range for each color. But for more accurate advice, I’d recommend the following: If you can make a gauge swatch in garter stitch with the needles you plan on using and measure the length, width, and weight in grams, then I’d be able to calculate the rest. Let us know what you come up with if you try this!
All the best,
Lili
Did you figure this out? I want to make it in worsted weight as well. Thanks
Hi Hariamrit,
It looks like I answered this person in another comment a little further down the page! They were planning on making the Bigger version of the wrap, so if you plan on making the Big (smaller) version, the yardage estimate would be different.
All the best,
Lili
Hi
I’m fairly new to knitting and working on this wrap. I got distracted and can’t remember if I turned or not. What is the easiest way to tell?
I knitted back and I’m at my cast on point so I think I forgot to turn. Please help !
Hi Louise,
Thanks for reaching out! If you used a long tail cast-on and you’ve knit all the way back to the edge where your yarn tail is, then that means you didn’t do the wrap + turn on that row. Let me know if this is what you’re observing in your work! I’d also recommend sending a photo of your wrap to [email protected] so that we can visualize exactly what’s going on.
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Yes that was exactly what I did wrong. I corrected and finished first half. Now I am ready to add the second color for triangle two but I think I didn’t end on the row 5. I am on the wrong side and I’m supposed to be on the right side to begin the color. I already knit the wraps. Help!!
Hi Louise,
Glad to hear that you’ve been able to move along in your project! Can you let me know what’s indicating that you’re on the wrong side? I’m asking because this pattern is a little unusual when it comes to right vs wrong side. The cast-on edge (which is usually an indicator for determining which side you’re on) looks like a wrong side when you’re on the right side, and vice versa. I just wanted to double check before giving you advice! It would also help if you could send photos of your work to [email protected], since we’ll be able to troubleshoot more effectively that way.
All the best,
Lili
Hi!
I don’t think anyone has asked how to fix a dropped W&T or a GSR stitch for this wrap. I’m surprised because it seems pretty tricky …. I’ve had to tink back a couple of rows to fix mine.
Is there a video/instruction on this?
Thank you!
Joyce
Hi Joyce,
I’m afraid that we do not have a tutorial of our own on fixing mistakes in short rows, but there may be some helpful resources on the internet. I’d recommend looking up “fixing short row mistakes” in your favorite search engine, and I bet lots of videos will come up, if you want to see this in action!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I am new to wrap and turns. When I knit the first row of color B (knit across all stitches), should I pick up the wraps from color A? Thank you!
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for writing in! You will be knitting each wrapped stitch with its wrap on the final “Next Row” in the TRIANGLE 1 section, which is still with Color A. By the time you knit the first row of TRIANGLE 2 (with Color B) there will be no more wraps left to pick up!
All the best,
Lili
Goodness, that seems so obvious now! I’m sorry for not seeing this sooner and thank you so much for your help!
You’re very welcome!
All the best,
Lili
I’m new to knitting, at the end of row two after the wrap and turn what happens to the last two stitches left after the turn? Do I just leave them? Sorry I’m very confused.
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! Because these rows are short rows, they’re shorter than a normal row. You will not work all the stitches on the row, since you are only working a portion of them in order to make the row shorter. After you work the wrp-t, you will then be able to work back in the other direction without needing to work the final few stitches on the row! If this technique is daunting, I’d recommend checking out our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial for a great visualization. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
It may be easier if the “wrap and turn” method described in the Half And Half Triangles Wrap instructions and video were described as “wrap and turn” method when knitting garter stitch”, (knit every row), when in fact, those are the instructions. In my opinion, it’s less confusing because when knitting garter stitch, there are no purl rows as outlined in the video.
YouTube has a very clear and easy to understand tutorial for the wrap and turn method when knitting garter stitch, which in my opinion, is less confusing considering, as mentioned, there are no purl rows.
I agree. Also in the written instructions it says turn work with wrong side facing. When you turn the work, the right side is facing since the wrap is performed on the wrong side (row 4). As you say, it’s best to look for a video on wrap and turn on garter.
I am completely flummoxed by Jackie’s of CadyJax Knits fabulous striped wraps. How does she get the stripes to meet at the diagonal? That is not how the stitches lie. Does she do two triangles and three-needle-bind-off them together ? Does anyone know ? Maybe I should ask her 🤔
Hi Helen,
That’s a great question, and there’s actually a really simple answer! I’ve watched Jackie’s “Half + Half Triangle Wrap Tutorial with German short rows” video on YouTube, and I noticed that she omits the final row of Triangle 1. She ends up knitting her double stitches with the new color on Row 1 of Triangle 2. This essentially flips the right and wrong sides of the wrap and causes the short rows for Triangle 2 to begin at the opposite corner.
Hope this helps! It’s a very cool effect.
All the best,
Lili
Ah ! I wondered if it was something like that, but discounted the idea. Must look again. Many thanks! It certainly is a cool effect and I hope to emulate it. Thank you again.
I just received my beautiful yarn from you.
I’d like to do an icord edging on the shawl, but cant figure out how to do it. I’ve watched videos on utube saying that’s what they’ve done, but not how it’s done on the short row edge?
Can you help please?
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for writing in! We highly recommend working an attached i-cord after you’re finished, if you’d like that type of edge on this project. It quickly becomes very complicated to try to add one while knitting, and you would also need to do an i-cord cast-on and i-cord bind-off to create an i-cord that travels all the way around the wrap. But if you add an attached i-cord afterwards, it’s extremely easy to make the i-cord extend the entire way around! If you’re unfamiliar with the attached i-cord technique, we have a great tutorial right here.
All the best,
Lili
Hi….I’m doing German short rows & discovered that if I knit the double stitch “through the back loop” it creates a nice ridge .
Hi there! I am working on the Bigger size shawl (and living the linen quill yarn)…and I am new to wrap and turn. I seem to be accumulating a ton of extra stitches and, although I can quite wrap my head around why, I am assuming this is how the scarf grows? Can you possibly explain this phenomenon to me? Many thanks in advance 🙂
Kindest regards,
Jenny
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for reaching out! Would you be able to send us a photo of your project by emailing it to [email protected]? That way, we can visualize exactly what’s going on and give more specific advice from there!
All the best,
Lili
Is this available as a pdf? of course paid!
Hi Anna,
Thanks for reaching out! Here’s how to download a PDF of any of our free patterns: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, click on the “PDF” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window. Once your PDF has finished downloading, just click the “Download PDF” button, and it will be saved to your computer! (You can also just click the “Print” button if you’d like to print the pattern.)
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I am curious about something, why did they decided to knit this wrap using short rows technique instead of bias knitting? (Since they are 2 perfect triangles)
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in. That’s a great question! There are so many ways to knit a triangle and we thought short rows were a great way to work the two halves into this pattern. I hope this helps but let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I’m struggling with reduced eyesight. Has anyone ever knit thus with a large needle size? 3, 4 and 5 is just too small for my eyesight.
Any comments would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hi Kandace,
Thank you for writing in! You can definitely alter this pattern for larger needles and thicker yarn! To modify this pattern you will want to start with a gauge swatch. You will then measure your stitches per inch and multiply that number by the desired width of your Half and Half wrap and that will give you your cast on number. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella