End To End Pullover
Not top-down nor bottom-up, our End To End Pullover is knit side-to-side in rows of sweet and simple garter stitch… A classic look but a fun construction!
Beginning at the end of the left sleeve, you knit the sleeve; cast on more stitches for the shoulder and body, knit that; then bind off some stitches and knit the right sleeve down to its end. Do the same for the back side, sew it all together with pretty inside-out seams, and ta da!
For the End To End Pullover we used our much-loved Linen Quill, a distinctive blend of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen. It’s a wonderful three-season weight, and we just added 16 new colors to the collection, including this deep, watery, and gorgeous Green Turquoise. Pick the same or whatever’s your favorite, cast on for one end, and enjoy the journey to the other!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Adam Aronowitz.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoEndToEndPullover, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS
- 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is approximately 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1705 (1840, 2150, 2325, 2635, 2875) yards required. We used Green Turquoise.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 4 double pointed needles
- Removable stitch markers
- An End to End Pullover Pattern
SIZES
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
38½ (42½, 46½, 50½, 54, 58)
To fit actual chest circumference of 30–33 (34–37, 38–41, 42–45, 46–49, 50–53) inches, with 5–8 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 38½ (42½, 46½, 50½, 54, 58) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder To Bottom Edge: 21¾ (22¼, 23½, 24, 26, 26½) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length From Side Seam To Cuff: 17 (16, 16½, 16¾, 17, 17¼) inches
- Sample: The sweater shown here is size 38½, worn with 5 inches of ease.
GAUGE
26½ stitches and 50 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
NOTE: Because this garment is worked sideways, you must match row gauge as well as stitch gauge in order to achieve the intended measurements.
PATTERN
The End to End Pullover Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Learn About Linen Quill + All Our Beautiful Yarns
We designed this project to highlight the uniquely beautiful qualities of our Linen Quill, a wonderful fingering-weight yarn that is a blend of 50% wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. It feels amazing in your hands, and in 70 jaw-droppingly gorgeous colors, Linen Quill is the candy store of yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Linen Quill knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop wool yarn
- Shop alpaca yarn
- Shop linen yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Do you have a video showing how to seam this garment?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a video for the method we used to seam this sweater; however, we did include step by step instructions and if you are familiar with picking up stitches, it should be quite straight forward. If not, we have a video on picking up stitches that should be helpful!
Best,
Julianna
This looks awesome. Would this be OK for an “advanced beginner”? Also, I prefer bracelet or 3/4 sleeves. How many rows should I deduct from the pattern? Thanks!
Hi Gina,
Thank you so much for the kind words and for writing in! Yes, I do think this would be a great advanced beginner pattern! The sweater is all in garter stitch, shaped with basic increases and decreases. At times, you will have to work two sets of shaping instructions at the same time, such as shaping both the shoulder and underarm simultaneously, but otherwise the pattern is very easy to follow.
Shortening the sleeves will require a bit of planning, since the sweater begins with the first sleeve which is worked from the cuff up and ends with the second sleeve which is worked from the shoulder down. Once you have determined how much shorter you would like your sleeves to be, you will have to decide based on which size you are making where to begin the sleeve – for instance, the smallest size starts off with 3 inches of garter stitch without any increases, so if you want your sleeves 3 inches shorter, it will be very easy to adjust by beginning the increases immediately, but other sizes begin with only an inch or two before the shaping, so you may need to cast on more stitches and omit the first few increases. Either way, you will want to make sure you end up with the correct number of stitches after the increase section, and then reverse the shaping for the second sleeve so they match.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’ve ordered this pattern, but would love to make it with a heavier wool; I fear it would take me the rest of my life to do it in fingering weight. (I am already working on the open air wrap with tussock which I’m finding to be quite an undertaking; the yarn is beautiful but kind of like working with spider web.) Can you suggest what a good heavier yarn might be? And any advice for figuring out the right gauge for that would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, for a more complex garment like a sweater that requires correct gauge to fit, we are unable to modify the pattern for a heavier weight yarn, but I will be sure to pass your suggestion along to the design team! Although they knit up to about the same gauge, Linen Quill does have a bit heartier feel than Cattail Silk so you might enjoy working with it a bit more. You could also try knitting a swatch in a sport weight yarn, such as Season Alpaca, to see if you are able to match our gauge. It will result in a denser fabric, but if you prefer heavier weight yarns, it might be just what you are looking for!
Best,
Julianna
Is there a way to make a smaller size? The measurements for the smaller size are still too large for m
Thank you
Hello Clare,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a smaller size for this sweater, but I will certainly pass along your request!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I need help with the pattern. I just finished the 89 stitch cast on toe and I still need to increase to shape the left shoulder. Where do I increase? I have been increasing at the beginning of the right side. From now on do I increase every 8 -10 rows at he beginning of the long row, after the. 89 added stitches or where?
Thank you
Laura
Hello Laura,
Thank you for this question! Under the “Shape Left Shoulder” section your pattern says “Shoulder Increase Row (right side): Slip 1, k1, make 1 left (m1L), work to end of row. [1 stitch increased] Repeat Shoulder Increase Row every 8th row 12 (13, 14, 7, 8, 2) more times, then every 10th row 0 (0, 0, 7, 7, 13) times.
AT THE SAME TIME… so this means you will be repeating this increase as you are knitting the “Shape Underarm + Cast On For Body”
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
-Marilla
This AT THE SAME TIME part has me stumped. I understand the why, but the how is elusive. So I am starting the Shape Left Shoulder and after I get to the 8th row to increase on the right side, I do an increase after 3 rows on every right- side row for the underarm?
Will I be increasing twice every 8th row since they are both supposed to be on the right side?
I have been staring at this pile of lovely green yarn for months. It is staring back in defiance. we are at an impasse, and even my more experienced friends are not sure. Please get me out of this staring contest.
Hi Deborah,
I hope I can clear this up for you! When working two sets of instructions at the same time like this, you will have to count each set of increases separately, but may end up increasing twice on some rows if both sets of increases happen to line up. I find it helpful to write out all the increases on paper before getting started! The first 16 rows of this section will look like this:
1 – Knit
2 – Knit
3 – Knit
4 – Underarm Increase
5 – Knit
6 – Underarm Increase
7 – Knit
8 – Underarm Increase and Sleeve Increase
9 – Knit
10 – Underarm Increase
11 – Knit
12 – Underarm Increase
13 – Knit
14 – Underarm Increase
15 – Knit
16 – Underarm Increase and Sleeve Increase
As you can see, you will be working the Sleeve Increase every 8th row, while also working the Underarm Increase on every right-side row beginning with the 4th row. I would recommend reading through this entire section and writing out all the increases so you have a plan before you start knitting!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I just casted on the body stitches and have knitted a couple rows. The body cast on stitches are really loopy, much bigger than the neat purl-slipped edges of the sleeves.
With the visible seams, will my holey edge show?
Hi Val,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the cast on will be somewhat covered up by the three needle bind off that joins the front and back together, if your cast on is very loopy, it may still be visible. I would suggest using a cable cast on for the body stitches as it results in a nice tidy edge. Most people find that this cast on is more prone to turning out too tight rather than too loose, but if yours is still turning out a bit loopy, you could work the cast on using a needle one size smaller than you are using for the rest of the pullover.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I forged ahead and what looked huge (with my cable cast ons) now looks moderately big. I’ll keep going and hope for the 3–needle bind off to make things right.
For my next cable cast on I’ll definitely use a smaller needle.
Thank you!
Hi! I’m trying to knit this beautiful sweater but i’m all mixed up. I’m a beginner and I want to be able to follow the pattern row by row. But the way I did it doesn’t work. I have too many right sides 🙁
Could you tell me where I made a mistake? Thank you. My problem begins at LEFT SHOULDER + UNDERARM
Shape Left Shoulder
1. Shoulder Increase Row (right side): Slip 1, k1, make 1 left (m1L), work to end of row. [1 stitch increased]
2. Wrong side sl + k
3. Right side : sl + k
4. Wrong side: sl + k
5. Underarm Increase Row (right side): Work to last 2 stitches, m1R, k2. [1 stitch increased]
6. Wrong side: sl + knit
7. Underarm Increase Row (right side): Work to last 2 stitches, m1R, k2. [1 stitch increased]
8. Shoulder Increase Row (right side): Slip 1, k1, make 1 left (m1L), work to end of row. [1 stitch increased]
Hi Chantal,
Thanks for reaching out! First, I applaud you for writing out the rows before you begin – it really is the best way to keep track of everything when you are following two sets of instructions at the same time! I believe you went wrong in how you are counting every 8th row for the Shoulder Increase Row. After working the Should Increase Row on Row 1, you will then count to the 8th row after Row 1, which would be Row 9, then Row 17, then row 25, and so on. This should get all of your increase rows on the right side of the work!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thank you so much Julianna! I’ll go back to that beautiful project.
Before I buy the pattern, can you tell me how simple or complicated it would be to shorten the length from shoulder to bottom edge by an inch or two?
Hello Katie,
Thank you for reaching out! You will knit each the Front and Back from Sleeve to Sleeve, following the same pattern for each
piece except for the Neckline section. Then you will attach the two pieces with a pick-up-and-bindoff seam along the Overarms, Underarms, and Side Seams. This means when it comes to cable cast on your body stitches you can simply cast on less stitches.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
Best,
Marilla
Hello there! I have a question… I was wondering if I could use Cloud yarn for this pattern? Perhaps using a size 4 needle will get me correct gauge?
Thank you!
Cherrie
Hi Cherrie,
Thanks for reaching out! Anzula Cloud is also a fingering weight yarn – it is a touch thinner than Linen Quill, but it should still work for this sweater! As always, especially when substituting another yarn, I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch to make sure the recommended needle size will give you the correct gauge.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m preparing to knit this pullover with 2 friends. We’re all doing it in Linen Quill. We’re having difficulty achieving gauge, which is unusual for us. Has anyone else had this issue?
Thanks for your help!
Cynthia
Hello Cynthia,
thank you for reaching out- what an exciting knit-along! What gauge are you getting? Have you tried adjusting your needle size?
I hope I can help!
-Marilla
THANKS FOR QUICK REPLY!
Yes, all 3 of us have adjusted down to size 2 or 3 needles.
On a size 2 I’m getting 6 sts/inch and 12 rows/inch and am tempted to go down one size in the pattern (not needle) rather than go to a size one needle.
Your thoughts?
Thank you,
Cynthia
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for writing in! As long as you are getting gauge, it doesn’t really matter what size needle you are on, even if you have to move down several sizes. It sounds like you are pretty close on US 2 needles – are you measuring over the full 4 inches on a large swatch and including partial stitches in your measurement? It isn’t fun, but to get the most accurate measurement it’s best to knit a swatch that is at least 5×5 inches and measure the center 4 inches, excluding the edge stitches that are a bit distorted and not representative of your true gauge. It’s also always a good idea to wash and block your swatch the same way you intend to wash and block your finished sweater before measuring, so you don’t get any unpleasant surprises the first time you wash it!
If you still aren’t getting the correct gauge on US 2 needles, I would recommend going down to US 1 if necessary, rather than knitting a smaller size, because it’s hard to predict how much knitting at a different gauge will affect the fit of the sweater without doing quite a bit of math, so you unfortunately won’t be guaranteed a proper fit. It sounds intimidating to knit a sweater on very tiny needles, but really, you will be knitting the exact number of stitches in the overall sweater as someone who gets the correct gauge on a larger needle!
Best of luck, and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Since this is garter stitch, would it create a lot of problems if I purl instead of knit? I’m thinking this might be a good pattern to try some Portuguese-style knitting, which makes for easier and faster purling.
Hi Emily,
Great question! Yes, you could certainly purl this entire pullover instead if you wish! Portuguese knitting is a fascinating technique – please do let us know how it turns out!
Best,
Julianna
While knitting the back, there is a note in the sidebar that says to reverse “right” and “left”. Does that mean I need to “m1L” instead of “m1R” when knitting the right sleeve? Do I still knit to the end of the row – last 2 stitches – before I do the increase?
Thanks for your help!
Hello Maureen,
Thank you for reaching out! This note is referring to the order that you are knitting your sections in. For the FRONT section you knit “LEFT SLEEVE, SHOULDER + UNDERARM” – “BACK NECKLINE”-“RIGHT SLEEVE, SHOULDER + UNDERARM” and for the BACK section you knit “RIGHT SLEEVE, SHOULDER + UNDERARM” – “BACK NECKLINE”-“LEFT SLEEVE, SHOULDER + UNDERARM”.
I hope this clears things up and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks, Marilla! Makes perfect sense now and I’m back to the project!
All the best,
Maureen
I have successfully completed the front of the sweater. I have started the back and have a sleeve and shoulder completed on one side up to the neckline. I’m stuck where to go from here. There is no back neckline and I don’t know how to proceed past this point. Can you help?
Hi Lissa,
Thanks for reaching out! After you have completed the Front Left Sleeve, Shoulder, and Underarm from the Front instructions, you will return to the Back instructions, which can be found at the bottom of Page 4. The Back Neckline instructions can be found in the last paragraph on Page 4.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you so much for your directions to the pattern. It all makes sense now. Lissa
I’d love a smaller size too. It’s a beautiful sweater and I’d love to give it a try but it would be huge and sloppy on my 5’1 frame.
Hi Lora,
Thanks for reaching out! I will be sure to pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Would Sweetgrass work as an alternate to Linen Quill?
Hi Val,
Great question! Yes, Sweetgrass knits up to the same gauge as Linen Quill, so I think it would be a lovely option for this sweater! It even has almost the exact same yardage per skein, so you can order the same number of skeins listed in the pattern for your size.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks Julianna. I have 3 skeins of sweetgrass in my stash and will order 2 more. Since it’s not dyed, I’m assuming I don’t need to worry about lots, but perhaps there’s a lot of variation in the alpaca colors. My stash is in the darkest color, birch.
Hi Val,
Even though it’s undyed, there can be some variation in the natural colors, but if you include the dye lot number from your skeins in the notes of your order, we will do our best to match it!
Best,
Julianna
I’m working on the back and have come to the “Front Right Shoulder, Underarm and Sleeve” and I’m stuck on “Bind Off for Body and shape Underarm.” The directions tell me to “work approximately 71/4” from the Neckline cable cast on — is there a cable cast on, on the back? I don’t know where to measure from. Can you help?
Hi Lissa,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that there isn’t a cable cast on for the back neck. Instead, you will measure from the second removable marker you placed after finishing the back neck and before going back to the Front Right Shoulder instructions.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Perhaps you’ve answered this but I couldn’t find it. I have finished the left sleeve and left shoulder and front neckline. I’m starting the right shoulder shaping. The instructions say to “Repeat Shoulder Decrease Row every 10th row 0 times. This doesn’t make sense to me. Seems like I should be decreasing now. Thanks.
Hi Meg,
Thanks for reaching out! If your size has you work this step 0 times, you can skip this instruction and move on to the next one! You will be decreasing right now, but only the larger sizes start with decreasing every 10th row. The other sizes all start with decreasing every 8th row, which you can find in the next part of the sentence.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello,
I’m a male knitter and I like the look of this sweater. Is it Unisex? Can I use the chest measurements based on my suit jacket chest measurement and knit this for me or is it strictly designed for a woman’s figure? Would be great to have more patterns for men .
Hi Charlie,
Thanks for reaching out! Like many of our patterns, I do think this is a great unisex sweater, since it doesn’t have any shaping or fitted portions. I would recommend measuring your actual chest circumference and choosing a size that is 4 to 8 inches larger, depending on how loose you like your sweaters to fit. You may also want to adjust the length of the body and sleeves depending on your height – if you aren’t sure, you could measure a sweater that you already own and like the fit of to see how it compares to our measurements in the schematic. Since this sweater is knit from side to side, it’s hard to make adjustments to the length on the fly, so I would definitely recommend planning out any potential alterations before you start knitting!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Any chance for baby size? Would look good.
Hi and thanks for reaching out! This sweater doesn’t currently come in children’s or baby sizes, but I will certainly pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
what non wool yarn can I substitute to make this sweater
Hi Pamela,
Thanks for writing in! I think Cattail Silk or Sweetgrass would be wonderful wool-free alternatives! As always, it’s extra important to knit a gauge swatch when substituting a different yarn, but since they are both the correct weight for this pattern, I don’t think you will have any problems getting the correct gauge.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I purchased this pattern, eager to get started. But I have following question:
The gauge says 26,5 stitches and 50 rows equals a square og 4 inches.
I somewhat wonder if there is a mistake in the row gauge? As you say yourself row gauge is quite important here as the pattern is worked sideways.
Thank you for your answer.
Hi Godelieve,
Thanks for reaching out! The gauge is correct, you should have 26½ stitches for 4″ and 50 rows for 4″! If you’re gauge is coming up different you may need to adjust your tension or needle size, I recommend checking out our All About Gauge tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use!
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
I purchased this pattern and 4 balls of the Quill yarn it called for. I chose the small size because I tried on the sample you had in the shop in the turquoise green. It fit great (over the blouse I was wearing). Now that I am ready to begin, I look at the sizes and realize my bust size does not match your measurements. Does the pattern run large? Did you have two samples, one in a small and one in a medium. The directions say the sample shown on the pattern is for a small and that is the amount you sold me. Please let me know if I can go ahead and make the small. My chest size is 37″. I do however usually wear a small T shirt and blouse. I wear a size 8 slacks. Thank you much. This is such beautiful yarn.
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct, the model is wearing the smallest size (size 38½, worn with 5 inches of ease) and this is the same sample that we have available to see in store! Keep in mind that this pattern includes 5–8 inches of ease. So the smallest size, even though we say “to fit actual chest circumference of 30–33″ that is before ease, so with ease (that is already added in) the smallest size will comfortably fit a chest circumference of 35-38″! If your chest is 37” considering the ease and that the sample in the store fit well then you are good to go continue with the smallest size!
For more information, I would recommend checking out our lovely Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size tutorial!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
I have completed the first section of left sleeve. I am starting to shape sleeve. It says to continue in garter stitch. It doesn’t say anything about slipping the first stitch at the start of each row. Do I stop doing the slip stitch when I start shaping the sleeve?
Hi Susanne,
Thank you for your question! When you start shaping the sleeve, you will still be slipping the first stitch in the plain garter stitch rows, so that you have an even edge to work with later.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret