Striped Spring Shirt
To ease you out of those cold, gray winter days and into the bright, dewy spring, we’ve redesigned our favorite summertime pullover in fresh spring yarns! In a slightly bigger gauge than the original, our Striped Spring Shirt is a classic, boat-neck, drop shoulder pullover, perfectly suited for clear spring days… and crisp summer nights.
We knit up this season’s Striped Shirt In Purl Soho’s beautiful, creamy Mulberry Merino, and we punctuated it with thin garter ridge stripes of our Line Weight merino. In two shifting shades of deep blue, the effect is well-crafted subtlety, very pretty and hugely satisfying! -Laura
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoStrippedSpringShirt, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Main Color (MC): 3 (4, 4, 5, 5) skeins of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% extra fine merino, 20% mulberry silk. Each skein is 247 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 730 (820, 910, 1010, 1105) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- Contrast Color 1 (CC1): 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino yarn. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 494 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 270 (295, 320, 350, 375) yards required. We used the color Timeless Navy.
- Contrast Color 2 (CC2): 1 skein of Line Weight; approximately 110 (130, 155, 175, 200) yards required. We used the color Peacock Blue.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 32-inch circular needle
- Optional: US 4, 12- or 16-inch circular needle (for picking up and working upper sleeves)
- A set of US 4 double pointed needles
- 1 stitch marker
Additional Palette Ideas
ON THE LEFT
- Main Color (MC): Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino in the color Heirloom White (bottom)
- Contrast Color 1 (CC1): Purl Soho’s Line Weight in the color Lichen Green (middle)
- Contrast Color 2 (CC2): Purl Soho’s Line Weight in the color Desert Blue (top)
ON THE RIGHT
- Main Color (MC): Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino in the color Heirloom White (bottom)
- Contrast Color 1 (CC1): Purl Soho’s Line Weight in the color Yellow Zest (middle)
- Contrast Color 2 (CC2): Purl Soho’s Line Weight in the color Yellow Yellow (top)
Gauge
NOTE: See Begin Striping section below for swatching in the round and/or see Continue Back Evenly for swatching flat.
24 stitches and 35 rows = 4 inches in striped stitch pattern, blocked
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
33¼ (37¼, 41¼, 45¼, 49¼)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 33¼ (37¼, 41¼, 45¼, 49¼) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22 (22½, 23, 23¾, 24¼) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 inches
- Finished Length from Center of Neck to Cuff: 26½ (27½, 28½, 29½, 30½) inches
EASE: This piece is designed with a 1 to 3-inch ease.
SAMPLE: Size 37¼ is pictured here.
Pattern
Body
Begin at Bottom Edge
With MC, cast 200 (224, 248, 272, 296) stitches onto the longer circular needle. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On. Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 1½ inches from the unrolled cast-on edge.
Begin Striping
NOTE: For some extra tips visit our Working Stripes in the Round Tutorial.
Round 1: With CC1, knit.
Round 2: With CC1, purl.
Rounds 3, 4 and 5: With MC, knit.
Repeat Rounds 1-5 twenty-one more times or until piece measures approximately 14 inches from unrolled cast-on edge, ending with Round 5.
Divide Front and Back
Round 1: With CC1, knit 100 (112, 124, 136, 148) stitches, place these stitches on hold for Front, knit to end of round. [100 (112, 124, 136, 148) stitches remain for Back]
Back
NOTE: You will now be working back and forth in rows rather than in the round. Each row in this pattern ends with the instructions to either “turn” or “slide” the work:
“Turn” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with a circular needle. That is to say, put the needle in your left hand into your right and the needle in your right hand into your left, and flip the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
“Slide” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needle. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
Shape Back Sleeves
Row 1 (wrong side): With CC1, knit to end of Back stitches, slide.
Cut CC1.
Row 2 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.
Row 3 (right side): With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, knit across these cast-on stitches and then knit to end, turn. [106 (118, 130, 142, 154) Back stitches]
Row 4 (wrong side) With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, purl across these cast-on stitches and then purl to end, turn. [112 (124, 136, 148, 160) Back stitches]
Row 5 (right side): Join CC1, knit to end, turn.
Row 6 (wrong side): With CC1, knit to end, turn.
Cut CC1.
Row 7 (right side): With MC, knit to end, turn.
Row 8 (wrong side): With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, purl across these cast-on stitches and then purl to end, turn. [118 (130, 142, 154, 166) Back stitches]
Row 9 (right side): With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, knit across these cast-on stitches and then knit to end, slide. [124 (136, 148, 160, 172) Back stitches]
Row 10 (right side): Join CC1, knit to end, turn.
Cut CC1.
Continue Back Evenly
NOTE: For this section do not cut CC2 between stripes. Instead, loosely carry CC2 up the edge. This minimizes the number of ends you’ll have to weave in.
Join CC2 on wrong side…
Row 1 (wrong side): With CC2, knit to end, slide.
Row 2 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.
Row 3 (right side): With MC, knit to end, turn.
Row 4 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.
Row 5 (right side): With CC2, knit to end, turn.
Row 6 (wrong side): With CC2, knit to end, turn.
Row 7 (right side): With MC, knit to end, turn.
Row 8 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.
Row 9 (right side): With MC, knit to end, slide.
Row 10 (right side): With CC2, knit to end, turn.
Repeat Rows 1-10 five (five, six, six, seven) more times.
SIZES – (37 ¼, –, 45 ¼, –) INCHES ONLY
Repeat Rows 1-5 one more time.
ALL SIZES
Next Row (wrong side): With CC2, knit 34 (39, 44, 49, 54) stitches, place these stitches on hold for Back Left Shoulder, loosely bind off following 56 (58, 60, 62, 64) stitches for Neck, knit to end, place previous 34 (39, 44, 49, 54) stitches on hold for Back Right Shoulder.
Cut CC2 and MC.
Front
Shape Front Sleeves
Slip FRONT on-hold stitches onto longer circular needle. Join CC1 to wrong side and…
Work Rows 1-10 of the Shape Back Sleeves section, above. [124 (136, 148, 160, 172) Front stitches]
Continue Front Evenly
Work Rows 1-10 of the Continue Back Evenly section, above, six (six, seven, seven, eight) times.
SIZES – (37 ¼, –, 45 ¼, –) ONLY
Work Rows 1-5 in the Continue Back Evenly section, above, one more time.
ALL SIZES
Next Row (wrong side): With CC2, knit 34 (39, 44, 49, 54) stitches, place these stitches on hold for Front Right Shoulder, loosely bind off following 56 (58, 60, 62, 64) stitches for Neck, knit to end. [34 (39, 44, 49, 54) stitches remain on needle for Front Left Shoulder]
Cut MC.
Shoulders
Left Shoulder
With the Front Left Shoulder stitches already on the longer circular needle, working from neck-side to shoulder-side, slip the Back Left Shoulder stitches onto the other end of the needle. The tips of the needle should exit the stitches at the shoulders’ edge. You will join the Front and Back Shoulders with wrong sides together in order to have a decorative seam on the outside.
Holding the needles parallel in your left hand, use either the shorter circular needle or a double pointed needle to work a 3-needle bind off. For extra help, please visit our 3-Needle Bind Off Tutorial.
Cut CC2.
Right Shoulder
Orient the Front Right Shoulder stitches and Back Right Shoulder stitches onto the longer circular needle as you did for the Left Shoulder stitches. With wrong sides together, join CC2 and use a 3-needle bind off to join the two sets of shoulder stitches.
Cut CC2.
Sleeves
Seam Underarm
NOTE: Before you seam the cable cast-on edges at the underarm, make your job easier by first weaving in the Contrast Color tails, just around this area.
To seam the first underarm, hold the Front and Back cable cast-on edges parallel. Use a tapestry needle threaded with the MC yarn to sew together these edges, starting at the armpit and working outward. Sew under the knit stitch at the cast-on edge of one side and then under the knit stitch directly opposite. Continue back and forth until you reach the end.
Pick Up for the Sleeve and Start Striping
With right side facing and starting to the left of the underarm seam, use the shorter circular or double pointed needles and CC2 to pick up a total of 77 (83, 89, 95, 101) stitches around the armhole. To do this, first pick up 2 stitches from the MC stitches to the left of the seam; then continue up the armhole, picking up 1 stitch for each MC row and 1 stitch at the 3-needle bind off ridge; then continue down the other side, picking up 1 stitch for each MC row; and lastly, pick up 2 stitches from the MC stitches just before the underarm seam. Place a stitch marker and join for working in the round. [77 (83, 89, 95, 101) stitches]
Round 1: With CC2, purl.
Rounds 2, 3 and 4: With MC, knit.
Round 5: With CC2, knit.
Cut CC2.
Transition Colors and Shape
NOTE: If you started the sleeves on circular needles, change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Joining CC1…
**Round 1: With CC1, purl.
Rounds 2, 3 and 4: With MC, knit.
Round 5: With CC1, knit.
Round 6: With CC1, purl.
Rounds 7 and 8: With MC, knit.
Round 9: With MC, k2tog, knit to last two stitches, ssk. [2 stitches decreased]
Round 10: With CC1, knit.
SIZES 33 ¼ (37 ¼, 41 ¼, 45 ¼, – ) ONLY
Repeat Rounds 6-10 one (2, 3, 5, – ) more times. [2 (4, 6, 10, – ) stitches decreased] ***
Repeat everything from ** to *** seven (5, 4, 2, – ) more times. [45 (47, 49, 59, – ) stitches]
SIZE – ( -, – , 45 ¼, – ) ONLY
Repeat Rounds 1-10 one more time. [ – ( -, -, 57, – ) stitches]
Repeat Rounds 6-10 two more times. [ – ( -, -, 53, – ) stitches]
SIZE – ( -, -, -, 49 ¼) ONLY
Repeat Rounds 6-10 twenty-two more times. [ – ( -, -, -, 55 ) stitches]
Continue Evenly
Round 1: With CC1, purl.
Rounds 2, 3 and 4: With MC, knit.
Round 5: With CC1, knit.
Repeat Rounds 1-5 one (one, zero, zero, one) more time(s).
Next Round: With CC1, purl
Cut CC1.
With MC, work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, for 1 ½ inches.
Bind off loosely.
Repeat the entire Sleeves section for second sleeve.
Finish
Weave in ends and block as desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Oh so lovely! Can’t wait to make this.
Any chance of a baby/toddler version someday?…
Hi Am!
Thanks for writing in.
There is ALWAYS a chance!
I really appreciate the request and encouragement. We’ll try and get it on our to-do list!
Thanks again.
Laura
We like this so much .
Love this- thank you! I too would love it in a toddler/child version if you have time.
This is so lovely. Cab imagine the stripes in a different colour. Why not try a bright yellow …Thanks for the patterns
What a simple, stylish and beautiful pattern! Thank you so much for sharing!
I would like to see a color palate in greens!
Hi Sheila.
Great idea Sheila. I would maybe take a look at using the colors Green Turquoise and Lichen Green together!
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9249-Purl-Soho-Line-Weight
Thanks.
Laura
I’m going to make it with perl cotton in cream with a black stripe
I really love this sweater. Thank you for the pattern. How many skeins would be needed if only doing one color stripe?
Hi Sherry.
If you’d like to just use one contrast color, depending on what size you’re making, you may only need one skein of Line Weight!
Approximately 270 (295, 320, 350, 375) yards are required for CC1.
Approximately 110 (130, 155, 175, 200) yards are required for CC2.
Thanks.
Laura
Love this design. Thank you for sharing. How can one go about making this in slightly smaller than the smallest size above?.thanks
Hi Rita.
One way would be to make the piece in a slightly smaller gauge.
Or, you could cast on fewer stitches! What size circumference are you looking to make Take that and multiply it by your gauge (make sure it’s an even number) and cast on that number or stitches. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out, I can help you out with your math.
Laura
Superbe, superbe !
Merci pour ce modèle et tous les autres.
So lovely! Do you think a beginner knitter could do this?
Thanks!
Hi Sofia!
A beginner could definitely do this!
Plus, we’re always here to help you if you run into any roadblocks along the way.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I love this, so simple and elegant. Pinned for when I ever get time to sit and make it! Beautiful x
Great pattern — just what I was looking for! I may try it with multi-color stripes.
Lovely. Thanks for the free pattern. This is right up my alley. But, can you work out your printing pattern layout. This one ends up being 14 pages!! 14!! Just, you know, safe trees and all that…
Hi Ruth.
Are you using our “print” button on the site? If you are, you can choose to eliminate as many paragraphs or photos as you’d like in order to shorted the pattern. Also you can save it as a PDF using up no trees at all!
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Such a lovely pattern! I would love to do it, but I knit European style with a needle under my arm and I cannot knit on the round! Anyway this could be adapted to straight, single pointed needles?
Please let me know.
Thank you
Laura
Hi Laura.
You could definitely work this pattern flat and then seam up the sides. Simply cast on half of the instructed number. Once you’ve worked to the underarm you’ll get to skip the part where you divide for the front and back, because yours will already be two separately pieces.
For how to make these stripes when working flat, rather than in the round, check out how the stripe pattern is written under the “Continue Back Evenly” section.
Hope these tips help!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Thank you, I will try it!
Laura
J’A-DO-RE ce type de pull tout simple basique que l’on porte d’année en année sans se lasser. Merci Purl Bee pour ce modèle gratuit… en plus !
Just ordered the yarn to make this! It will be my first sweater. Can’t wait to cast on.
My first time on your site, altho I visit the store whenever I am in NYC. Love this sweater, but the merino wool/silk blend is too hot for Florida. Can I substitute a cotton yarn, and if so, what do you recommend?
Hi Kathy.
Thanks for writing in. I’d love to recommend some cotton substitutes for the Main Color.
I’d take a look at…
Cascade’s Ultra Pima: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7117-Cascade-Yarns-Ultra-Pima
Blue Sky’s Skinny Cotton: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/3823-Blue-Sky-Skinny-Cotton
Habu’s Wide Cotton Gima: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9748-Habu-Textiles-Wide-Cotton-Gima
Let me know if you have any questions about these!
Best,
Laura
I love this sweater!! Is it available in children’s sizes?
Hi Felicity.
As of now, the pattern is not available in children’s sizes. There seems to be quite a demand for it though. We really appreciate your request and will see what we can do about grading it for youngsters.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Love this! Am I right in noticing that this pattern mixes two yarn weights? The contrast stripes are lighter/air-yer(?) than the main color stripes then?
Hi Noemie.
Yes! You are correct. The Main Color is thicker than the fingeringweight Contrast Colors.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Beautiful pattern! I just have one question: Can I also use the merino/silk for the stipes or is there a underlying reason why the stripes are in pure merino?
Love from Germany,
Verena
Hi Verena.
Great question.
You could use the same yarn for the stripes, just be aware that…the stripes are not only just merino, but the yarn use is a much thinner yarn. Using a thicker yarn will affect the row gauge and will also make them more pronounced.
Thanks for writing in and let me know if you have any additional questions!
Laura
Love the pattern. Would love to make this with stash yarn, but the yarns I have in mind only have a minimal difference in yardage (~20yd per 50g). this will obviously make the stripes more pronounced, but will I also need more yarn?
Thanks,
Barb
Hi Barb.
For the yarn I used here, approximately…
…270 (295, 320, 350, 375) yards are required for CC1.
…110 (130, 155, 175, 200) yards are required for CC2.
If you use a yarn that’s slightly thicker, I believe you’ll be fine with the yardages above, to be on the safe side, you could factor in 10% more.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
can you recommend a tutorial for altering this to a crew neck pattern?
Hi Maria.
Thanks for the interest in the pattern.
Unfortunately, at this time, we only have the pattern as written, we do not have instructions for a crew-neck version.
Have you seen our other garment patterns? Perhaps there’s another design you’d prefer…
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/category/knit/projects-knit/garments-projects-knit/
Thanks for writing in.
Let us know if you have any questions.
Best,
Laura
This will be my first sweater in an adult size. I am petite, but I need the wider chest circumference. I would like to make it shorter in the length and shorter across the top and into the sleeve length. Is that possible and what would be the best way to do that? Thank you so much.
Hi JoanieK.
The length from the bottom edge to underarm is easily modified. Simply work that portion for your desired length.
Similarly, the length from the underarm to the shoulder is also quite simple to modify. The easiest way to modify would be to follow the instructions for a smaller sized pattern (remembering that the stitch count will be different). Just keep in mind that the height from underarm to shoulder determines the sleeve circumference.
If you for instance, if you follow size Small to complete the body of the piece, then when you pick up at the armholes for the sleeves, once again, follow the size Small instructions.
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
I have started the sweater and am running into ani issue with a jog on the striped garter rows. Please help.
Hi Phyllis.
Thanks for writing in.
One way to minimize the jog would be to slip the last stitch of the round purlwise, with the yarn in back. It will create a different little detail, but you may find it more pleasing than the jog.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Best.
Laura
Thanks for the suggestion. I have started to do the stripe in stockinette instead and am happier with the result. Phyllis
Oh my, I want to make this soooo bad!
I’m afraid I won’t be able to finish it since I’m a relatively beginner knitter. I can knit easily but some small steps look difficult to me…
Oh nevermind! This is to beautiful to pass on! I’ll give it a try!
Amelie!
I’m so glad you’re going to give it a shot! Please do not hesitate to leave questions here in the comment box. We will be sure to get back to you as soon as we can.
Laura
I’ve started knitting this and I’m about five rounds into the striping of the main body. I’m concerned about the bottom edge. It seems to be curling up a lot (almost rolled all the way up to the first stripe). Is this something that will relax with blocking or as the length grows? I hate the look of overly bulky rolled edges and am afraid it will ruin the look of the bottom hem. Thanks for your help, as always.
Hi Dianne.
My sweater rolled up at the edges at first too, but after blocking the piece, it really relaxed a ton. This is greatly due to the silk in the merino/silk blend of Mulberry Merino. Silk is nice and drapey and so it relaxes a lot, even along stockinette edges.
If you’re working in a different yarn, than I can’t speak to how those fibers will respond to blocking. But what I recommend is that maybe you could make a swatch and test it out before you go too much further?
Please let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi Laura,
Thanks so much for your response. I am using the Mulberry Merino (which is so soft!), but I have not worked with silk very much before so I am very glad to hear that it should relax. I really love the look of the hem on the model with the extra-large band of white on the bottom, so I was trying to decide whether to rip the whole thing out and start again with some type of ribbed hem. But after your response I will proceed with what I have. Thanks again, I remain a huge fan of the Purl Bee and I can’t wait to wear this sweater!
Hi,
I am a huge fan of Purl Bee and I love this pattern. I would like to make this sweater as gifts for my sisters and I am looking for other yarn suggestions that might will work. I love the Purl Soho yarn but it might work out to be too expensive if I want to make more than 1. Do you think I can use the Cascade 220 sport? I have a thin strand of pure silk that I can double up for some extra texture, if the colours work. Let me know!
Thanks!
Hi Swetha.
It’s always wonderful hearing from fans of the Purl Bee! Thanks for writing in.
As for substituting the yarn… Cascade 220 Sport sounds like a wonderful choice. I will mention that the edges might roll a bit more than mine do. The silk in the Mulberry Merino helps weight down the fabric, relaxing the edges a bit. But other than that, your plan sounds great!
Enjoy the pattern and let us know if you have any questions along the way.
Laura
Would you be able to make this not in the round but with leaving one side open and seaming later?
Hi Lisa.
I love the sound of that!
You could work the first inches of both the front and the back flat, following the striping pattern in the “CONTINUE BACK EVENLY” section, and then join for working in the round to do the the body.
Let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Laura
Hi, I’m Marina, I’m italian.
I have a question.
In the section CONTINUE BACK EVENLY when you write
“Repeat Rows 1-10 five (five, six, six, seven) more times”
means: to work from row 1 to row 10 five more times or to work only row 1 and row 10 five more times?
Thanks
Hi Marina,
Thanks for writing in! Repeat Rows 1-10 means repeat row 1 through 10, that is to say all 10 rows the correct amount of times for the size that you are knitting. For the purposes of our patterns the “-” will stand in as thr word through.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi, I love this sweater but would prefer it all in one color. Would I follow the exact same pat term if I was using one color?
Hi Max.
Thanks for writing in. At this time we only have this pattern written with the striping, but we’re always here to help along the way should you choose to modify the pattern!
At the beginning, yes, you can simply follow the pattern just doing everything in a single color. Once you divide for the front and backs, the pattern is written very specifically with the 3 rows of MC and 2 rows of CC in mind. There are instructions to slide stitches to one end or the other and the shaping is written into this specific striping. After working the body, hopefully the repeat will be very clear to you and the modifications will be a snap.
Do let us know if you have any questions along the way.
Best.
Laura
These are lovely, but I notice you don’t often model them on a humans. Could you please include more pictures other than lying flat? That would be super.
Hi Lynn.
For additional photos of this project and our others, you can visit our Instagram feed here: https://instagram.com/purlsoho/. For a photo of this specific project on a human, see this link: https://instagram.com/p/13FfXajhXq/?taken-by=purlsoho
Thanks for writing in and also for your request.
We’re trying to get more and more of our projects photographed on models.
Best,
Laura
I’m knitting the first sleeve on this beautiful sweater and I’m confused about the directions. In the part of the pattern where I repeat from ** to *** (5 times for the 37″ size), I don’t see how I can possibly end up with 47 stitches at this point. I had decreased 6 going into this section and then each round of ** to *** decreases 2 stitches (so a decrease of 10 stitches over the 5 repeats). Am I missing something? I don’t see how I could go from 83 to 47 stitches following those instructions. Thank you!
Hi Dianne.
Thanks for writing in. This portion can be a bit tricky. Let’s see…
You work Rounds 1-10. [2 stitches decreased]
Then, for sizes 33 ¼ (37 ¼, 41 ¼, 45 ¼, – ) you repeat Rounds 6-10 one (2, 3, 5, – ) more times. [2 (4, 6, 10, -) stitches decreased]
So far you’ve decreased a total of 4 (6, 8, 12, -) stitches.
Then you repeat everything from the ** through the *** seven (5, 4, 2, – ) more times.
So this means 7 (5, 4, 2, – ) x those 4 (6, 8, 12, -) stitches decreased between the ** and ***, coming to another 28 (30, 32, 24, -) stitches decreased.
After starting with 77 (83, 89, 95, -) sleeve stitches minus 4 (6, 8, 12, -) stitches minus 28 (30, 32, 24, -) = 45 (47, 49, 59, – ) stitches
Please note that for the 2 largest sizes there are additional instructions for sleeve shaping that I did not lay out here.
Dianne. Does this help? I do hope so! Please let me know if you have any questions.
Best,
Laura
Hi Laura,
Thank you! For some reason I failed to realize that I had to repeat rows 6-10 (2 times) for every (** to ***) repeat.
Thanks for clearing this up for me.
Dianne
You’re very welcome! Glad I was able to help. -Laura
How do you keep the bottom white edge of the sweater from rolling up on to it self?
Hi Jean.
My edges definitely rolled up some before I blocked my sweater! Once I blocked it though, the fabric relaxed nicely. The flat (non rolling) edge is in part due to the yarn I used. The silk in the Mulberry Merino helps weight down the fabric, relaxing the edges a bit. Are you using Mulberry Merino? Or maybe you’ve substituted it for a 100% wool yarn, in which case you’ll definitely have a more rolled edge than me. You may want to account for that by adding a few extra rows at the bottom edge of the body and of the sleeves.
I do hope this helps. Please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
I’m planning to make this garment and it will definitely a staple in my closet. I was wondering if you experienced any bleeding or transferring of colors from the colored yarn? Thank you so much for always offering awesome classic patterns
Hello Trang,
Unfortunately that is a risk when mixing such high contrasting colors. We recommend using some Shout Color Catchers when washing it, and its always better to wash it by hand so you can control everything more closely.
Glad you like the pattern! Enjoy! -Alyson
Thank you! Yes I’m washing hand knitted items by hands. Do you use the shout sheets when washing by hands as well?
Hello Trang,
It should still help! Give it a try! Thanks! -Alyson
Can i knit this all in the line weight yarn?
Hello Janet,
Using only line weight would be lovely, it just would be a little difficult to obtain the correct gauge throughout the pattern. The Mulberry Merino sort of acts as an anchor for the fabric you’re creating and prevents the pattern from being incredibly open and loose.
If you choose to make an alteration, make sure that you test it out in a gauge swatch! Happy knitting! -Alyson
aussi beau que le ” Striped Summer Shirt “
I love this sweater and definitely planning to make it. Do you think it will work with Madelinetosh pashmina? If so, are there any modifications you would suggest?
Hello Barbara!
So glad you’re liking this pattern! Madeline Tosh Pashmina has a recommended gauge of 5.5-6 stitches per inch on a US 3-5 needles, so you’re right–it would be a great option for this pattern! Make sure to check your gauge and adjust your needle size in order to get 6 stitches to the inch so the sizing of the pattern isn’t off.
Happy knitting! -Alyson
Wanted to order the Mulberry Merino heirloom white but there is only 3 available. Wondering when you would have more available.
Hello Kathy!
We’re preparing a large order of our yarns for the Fall, but meanwhile give a call over to our NYC shop that has a separate inventory from our online store and check with our lovely store staff.
You may also feel free to shoot an email over to customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com to be notified when we get it back in stock. Best of luck! Thanks for your interest! -Alyson
I’m currently at the point of shaping the back sleeves and have a question for Row 1 – is it a true “slide” at the end of the row? My understanding from the slide explanation at the top is that you do not turn the work, however after the first slide, you are working on the wrong side. So is it just a turn, then?
I feel like I’m misunderstanding this because it would cause this particular stripe to be smaller than the rest I have knit so far, but if that’s what it’s supposed to be, then I will stop hesitating!
Hi Stacey.
I’d love to help get you on track!
First off, let’s make sure you ended the previous section, Dividing Front and Back, with working Round 1 in CC1. Then when you move on to Shape Back Sleeves section, you turned your work and with the wrong side facing you work Row 1 with CC1. That’s one round and one row of CC1.
At the end of this Row 1, you are to slide your stitches. This way you can start Row 2, also a wrong side row, with the MC. Row 2, 3 and 4 are all worked in the MC. Three rows, just like how you worked 3 rounds of MC between contrast rounds in the earlier sections of this pattern.
Stacey, please let me know if this isn’t clearing things up for you! I do hope it does. Thanks for writing in.
Laura
PS: I deleted your second questions which seemed to be asking the same thing as this one. I hope that’s alright!?
I didn’t know if my first question actually posted, so that’s just fine!
Thank you so much for your quick response- that helps immensely!!
Hi, A friend wants me to knit this sweater for her but is concerned that the sweater might be see-through. I don’t think that’s the case, but said I’d ask just to be sure. Also, she has sensitive skin and wants to make sure the yarn is soft. I’m guessing merino/silk is definitely soft and probably the 100% merino is as well. Thanks!
Hi Jennifer.
The sweater is not see-through! So do not fear!! Also, the Mulberry Merino is quite soft, especially after you block it; it gets even softer. The Line Weight we often use as a substitute for cashmere. It’s incredible!
Let us know what you think of the project!
Laura
Love the yarn and the design of this sweater! But I’m having trouble knowing how to measure the lenghth of the body to the point where you stop knitting in the round and divide for front and back. I’m at 12″ now but can easily flatten it to 13″ and wonder if the blocking will give that much more length. There seems to be so much “spring” to the knitting and not sure if that disappears when blocked.
Hi Hazel.
Thanks for writing in!
Yes, there is quite a bit of spring to the fabric. If you wanted to you could hover a steaming iron just above the fabric to give it a subtle blocking mid project. This may help give you a better idea of what length you’re really at. Not all of the spring disappears, but the fabric will relax some once blocked.
Thanks again for writing in and please let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
I love love love this pattern and can’t wait to make it! I included it in my weekly roundup post this week because I love it so much: http://www.justblueflint.com/blog/this-week-01
Can this pattern be knitted for male? It looks unisex.
Hello, Robert!
Thank you for writing in! Sorry for the delayed response! I believe this could be knit for a male!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hello
I can’t see how much wool to actually buy? I am a UK size 12….or can you let me know how much wool to buy for the above measurements and I can purchase online.
Thanks!!
Nicola
Hi Nicola,
Thanks for writing in! A UK 12 roughly translates to a US 8, however, our patterns are based on bust size rather than numerical size so I am unsure what size would fit you best.
The finished bust circumferences for this project are 33 ¼ (37 ¼, 41 ¼, 45 ¼, 49 ¼) inches or 84.5 (95, 105, 115, 125) cm.
To accomplish these sizes you will need:
730 (820, 910, 1010, 1105) yards of the Main Color
270 (295, 320, 350, 375) yards of Contract Color 1
110 (130, 155, 175, 200) yards of Contrast Color 2
I hope that this information is helpful!
Cassy
“place these stitches on hold for Front”
Does this mean place on a holder?
Hi Sheila,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you can place these stitches on hold with a stitch holder or strand a long piece of scrap yarn of similar weight through these stitches to hold them in place. You will be picking up these stitches and knitting them later on to knit up the front.
Best,
Adam
I made this top with the blue and white just as pictured. I get tons of compliments every time I wear it! Kudos to those who developed the pattern! Finishing was minimal, the pattern well written, and the photographs so helpful! I’ve come to love Purl Bee and its patterns. Thanks for all you do. –v/r, Beth
This pattern is tricky for my ability– how can I arrive at 45 stitches after repeating pattern on sleeve when I started at 77 stitches- ? I come up with 59 . I am making your smallest size.
Hello Anne,
Thanks for writing in. Be sure to follow the directions from ** to ***. You are getting the wrong amount of stitches decreased because you are not repeating rounds 6-10 one more time. In the ** to *** repeat, there is a decrease of four stitches actually. Hope this helps.
Best,
Adam
I plan on knitting this pattern , using the yarn you recommend, however, I am confused about the size and ease.
I want the finished size to be approximately 38″.
Which size would you recommend I make?
The yarn is gorgeous!! Thank you for your help.
Hi Alice,
Thanks for the nice comment! If you want the sweater to be a bit more form fitting, then I would go with the 37 1/4″. You can also try to knit up a needle for this size to get a few more inches around. If your gauge is right on, then I would suggest knitting the 41 1/4″. This sweater does look good with ease and I think that if you chose for a looser fit, it would look great!
Thanks,
Adam
Is it possible to use this pattern with regular knitting needles rather than circular?
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! To knit this pattern on straight knitting needles, you will need to modify it a little bit to knit it flat rather than in the round as it is written above. Simply cast on half of the instructed number. Once you’ve worked to the underarm you’ll get to skip the part where you divide for the front and back, because yours will already be two separately pieces.
For how to make these stripes when working flat, rather than in the round, check out how the stripe pattern is written under the “Continue Back Evenly” section.
When you are done, you will need to seam up the sides.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
The link for the 3-needle bind off does not work.
Hi Melanie,
Thanks for letting me know! So sorry about that! I fixed it and it should work now.
Best,
Adam
Hi there,
I’m loving knitting this up and the yarn is simply deelish but I have a question about the sleeve decreases.
So I’m to decrease on row 9 then go back to row 6 and decrease on the 9th row two times? Then I do the same thing 5 more times ( for size 37 1/4)? Am I reading this wrong or are the decreases staggered like this?
Help!
Hi Gazelle,
Glad you are loving this! To clear things up: after round 10 you will repeat rounds 6-10 two more times and then five more times. In total you will complete the decrease round eight times. The decreases are distributed evenly because you repeat the five round repeat in succession until you have done it eight times total. Let me know if you are still confused!
-Adam
Hi Adam,
If I only decrease 8 times total why does the next line in the instructions ask me to work from ** to *** . the ** is next to row 1 not row 6. This seems to indicate that after I do the two initial repeats I should go back to row one. I’m still confused. Is the ** next to the wrong row?
Hi Gazelle,
Sorry for the late reply! Yes, you will go back to round 1 and knit through to round 10 again AND repeat rounds 6-10 one more time. This is the whole repeat in between ** and ***. Hope this is clearer! All in all, you will decrease 32 stitches total.
Best,
Adam
Hi. I have two (probably rather basic) questions.
1. You mention the garment is designed with 1-3 inch ease. You also mention finished chest circumference. Does this mean I should add a measurement to my actual chest circumference or if I am 33.25 make the small and the built in ease is already added? (I hope I am clear.)
2. When I do a gauge swatch you mention to block it. I am wondering how much to “stretch” when I block. I have not had to block or do much swatches in my past and want to make sure I am doing this correctly.
Thank you for your time. I just got my yarn today in the mail and cannot wait to start!!
Hi Erin,
Thanks for writing in! And your question is not basic at all. Lots of people get tripped up with ease. If something is calling for 3″ of ease and your chest is a 33, you will want to make the garment with a finished chest measurement of 36″. Now, when blocking you shouldn’t stretch the fabric at all. I like to block my swatches how I plan to take care of the garment in the future. I hope all this helps you!
Best,
Adam
Hi – such a great pattern! I can’t wait to start and prepare for the spring! Would you be able to recommend an yarn option that is more affordable?
Thank you!
Hi C,
Thanks for the kind comment! You can knit the body in Cotton Pure or possibly Cascade 220 Superwash Sport. The stripes take any fingering weight yarn of your choosing, as long as you like the color.
Thank you!
Help!
I started knitting this beautiful sweater in a size small. About 6″ into the body, I decided I wanted to go for another color for the stripes. I started over and as I removed my work from the needles I noticed how wide it was. I took measurements and the total circumference (taken at the bottom edge) is 41 7/8 inches. I casted on 224 (size small). I recounted to make sure. I’m not sure why it ended up with such a wide body (41 7/8 inches instead of 37 ¼ inches). I also blocked that piece and ended up with the same width. The gauge is as it’s supposed to be: 6 stitches per inch. I did use an alternative to Purl Soho’s mulberry merino. The yarn I used is a sport weight alpaca and silk yarn by Blue sky fibers. What do you recommend? Should I knit this pattern in a XS instead of the S?
Thank you!
Marie-Claude
Hi Marie-Claude,
Thanks for the question. I don’t think you gauge came out to be six stitches per inch because a cast on of 224 should yield 37 1/4″ width (224/6 = 37.3). According to your measurements I think your gauge is around 5.5 stitches per inch. This seems like a small difference, but when applied to such a large cast on it can really change your dimensions. I’d go down a needle size or follow the smallest size in the pattern. With your gauge you should get a chest width of around 37″ if you follow the directions for the smallest size. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Thank you very much for your quick response.
I will try to use smaller needles. Thank you!
-Marie-Claude
Hi,
This sweater looks lovely. I’d like to knit it in similar colors as your photos, but the Line Weight colors don’t seem to be available. Do you think Koigu KPPPM + KPM would be okay as a substitute? If so, 1 skein of Koigu KPPPM + KPM seems to be significantly shorter than 1 skein of Line Weight, would 1 skein of each contrast color in Koigu KPPPM + KPM be enough for this sweater?
Hi Jisoo,
Thanks for writing in! While Koigu KPPPM amd KPM are a bit thicker than our Line Weight, I do think that you can use them here. For contrast color 1, you will need 2-3 skeins and for contrast color 2, you will need 1-2 skeins.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks you.
Will Line Weight be available in the near future (for the colors above)? Also, might you have other alternatives worth suggesting other than the Koigu? I’m looking at 3010 & 1500 but am not quite sure they would be quite what I’m looking for.
Hi Jisoo,
Thanks for writing back! The Line Weight colors above are discontinued and will not be available again. As to an alternate yarn, Woolfolk Tynd could also work well here as would Tosh Merino Light!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you again for the reply. One last question though, so for size 37 ¼, how much yardage will be needed for each of the contrast colors?
Hi Jisoo,
Thanks for writing back! For the size that you are making you will need roughly 330 yards of contrast color 1 and between 130-150 yards of contrast color 2.
Best,
Cassy
Thanks! I will be going with Woolfolk Tynd colors 11 & 14.
is that positive or negative ease?
Hi Caro,
Thanks for writing in! The ease listed here is positive ease. To select your size, measure you bust measurement and add 1-3 inches and choose the nearest size!
Best,
Cassy
Thanks for the quick reply!
I live in Australia but visited your store in New York last year and fell in love. I bought yarn in store and made a stunning scarf and fingerless mittens. Now I am knitting Julie Hoover’s Addison with yarn I ordered from you online. As always, I am already looking ahead to the next project and love the look of the Striped Spring Shirt. I am completely undecided about whether to do the spring or the summer version – both look beautiful! I wanted to do the spring in the blue colourway pictured but note that the blue yarns are no longer available. I read an earlier query from someone in Florida that wanted a lighter version and you recommended substituting the Habu cotton gima for the main yarn. Can I also use the cotton gima for the stripes? I am trying to get as close to the blues in your pictures as I can and the cotton gima blues look lovely? If not, what yarn do you recommend I use for the stripes if I use cotton gima for the main?
Hi Viki,
Thanks for writing in! I am so glad that your project is going well! We have done a summer version of this lovely sweater. It can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/06/08/lauras-loop-striped-summer-shirt/
For the summer version we used Habu Silk Gima for the body and Habu’s Linen Wrapped Silk for the color rows. In both versions, the yarn used for the colored stripes is much finer than the main color. We also used the Silk Gima and not the Cotton Gima. You may be able to get gauge with the Cotton Gima but I would certainly recommend knitting a gauge swatch is substituting!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
I keep reading the pattern, but I’m still confused. The photo appears to show TWO colors, but I know you have a CC2 in there. Is the front striped with one color & the back another? Does the shade of blue change when you get to the armholes?
Please straighten me out!
Hello Pam,
Thank you for reaching out! There are, in fact, three colors in this shirt. CC2 is used after separating for front and back of the body, so it is only used for the upper 3rd of the body and the rest is CC1. The deference in CC1 and CC2 is intentionally subtle.
I hope this clears thins up and let me know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for the pattern, and for including the photos. The photos make the construction really clear, and I really appreciate that. I’m planning to knit this sweater in all one color, and am trying to condense the pattern accordingly. I need a little help doing that, please.
1. Are the directions for a one inch ease or a three inch ease? or does it not matter because we know the finished dimensions?
2. Are the sleeve decreases done every six rows? every 10 rows? something else entirely? Is there any reason not to do them a set number of times over a set number of rows until I get to the desired number of stitches?
3. Is there any reason not to cast on 12 stitches all at once to the front and back in order to create the drop shoulder? I see that you’ve done two sets of six, but I don’t see that it would make a huge difference.
By any chance, do you have a pattern for a drop-shoulder pullover in all one color, so that I don’t have to translate this pattern?
Thank you!
Hello Hope,
Thank you for reaching out! These are all great questions.
1. This shirt is designed to have 1 to 3 inches of ease. This means that you will want to make the size that is 1 – 3 inches larger than your actual chest size.
2. The sleeve shaping is done while working in the stripes and ridges as well as giving you a properly proportioned slope. This is why the decreases are spaced out every 10 rows as well as every 5 rows.
3. This is in reference to the “Shape Back Sleeves”? Because there are a several rows between each set of 6 cable cast on you are creating a slope which is important to the construction of the garment.
4. Yes! Our Camber Pullover is a lovely single toned dropped sleeve pullover.
I hope this helps and good luck!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I love the white and blue stripes très français.
Your tutorial is very clear.
Merci
Yolande
Would love to make this sweater! Do you have a suggestion for a yarn I can supplement for the Mulberry Merino? Looks like it’s all sold out. Thanks!
Hi Kelsey,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sorry to say that the links to the yarn were out of date! We have updated them and you can certainly use the Mulberry Merino yarn which we do still produce!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you, that’s great news!
I would like to make this sweater but by any chance would you have directions to knit it up NOT in the round??
Hi Jo,
Great question! Although we don’t have instructions in the pattern for knitting this top flat, it can be done with a few modifications! You will need to cast on half the stitches for the front and half for the back, and work the stripe pattern as follows:
Row 1 (wrong side): With CC1, knit to end, slide.
Row 2 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.
Row 3 (right side): With MC, knit to end, turn.
Row 4 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.
Row 5 (right side): With CC1, knit to end, turn.
Row 6 (wrong side): With CC1, knit to end, turn.
Row 7 (right side): With MC, knit to end, turn.
Row 8 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.
Row 9 (right side): With MC, knit to end, slide.
Row 10 (right side): With CC1, knit to end, turn.
Repeat rows 1-10 until the front and back measure about 14 inches, ending with Row 10. Skip the row that divides the front and back, and you can then proceed to the Back instructions and work them as written.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you, Julianna, that is a great help!
Hello,
I would love to knit this sweater but I am six feet tall and need to add length. How much extra yarn would I need?
Thank you
Tammie Hamilton
Hello Tammie,
Thank you for reaching out! Depending on how much longer you would like to make this shirt you might need an extra skein of the main color, but you might be ok. Because of the stripes, dye lot is less important, so you could wait and see or buy an extra skein from the start.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi there! LOVE that I found this beauty! I have two questions for you pros. 1. If I want to make it a little heavier weight is there a yarn you’d recommend? and 2. Do you have any steps for adding a small turtleneck/roll-neck/ mock-neck at the top?
Thanks!!
Hi Clare,
Thank you so much for writing in and for the kind words! Since changing the weight of the yarn can potentially change the gauge and therefore the finished size of the sweater, I would suggest picking something fairly similar to the original Mulberry Merino for the main color. Both Cashmere Merino Bloom and Good Wool are fairly close but slightly heavier and warmer yarns, so they will probably work well, but I would definitely recommend knitting a gauge swatch to make sure. To add a higher neck, for the last step of both the Front and Back instructions, rather than casting off the center Neck stitches, place them on a separate holder. Once you have completed the three-needle bind off for the shoulders, you can then place the front and back neck stitches on a 16 inch needle and knit the neck for as long as you would like.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is a great-looking sweater. I have three questions.
1. I’d like to make it in all one color. I’m usually pretty good at translating instructions and transposing patterns but I’m having a really hard time with this one. Should I just use the graphic as my guideline and ignore the pattern except for dimensions, increases and decreases? I’d welcome any suggestions you might have.
2. I’m planning to use a heavier yarn, either worsted or aran weight. Will the rolled stockinette look OK for the bottom of the sweater and cuffs or should I add a row of knit stitches to give them a little more stability?
3. How do I make sure that I get two inches of ease?
Thank you for the great patterns and elegant yarn! I’ve used your patterns to make something like 30 iterations of the Lovely Ribbed Hat and Classic Cuffed Hat combined for friends or their children over the past year. (I made one for myself as well but ended up giving it to an honorary niece. A replacement is on my needles now).
Hello Hope,
Thank you for writing, I’m so happy to hear of your hat successes!
1. To knit this pattern in one color I would recommend changing all of the CC1 and CC2 to MC. The “Shape Back Sleeves” section is the only part that gets slightly complicated because you have two wrong sides in a row. For this you will just cut your MC yarn, slide your work, and rejoin your yarn.
2. If you want to knit this sweater with a heavier yarn your gauge will change. This will be a bit of a risk because you will not know how it will turn out until you are fairly far into your project. The first step you will need to do is knit up a gauge swatch to find out how much bigger your gauge is going to be. You are correct that if your fabric is denser you will likely get some curling so adding an edging would be smart.
3. To get two inches of ease you will need your finished chest circumference to be two inches larger than your actual chest circumference. If your actual chest circumference is 35 then you would want to knit the size 37 1/4″.
I hope these answer your questions and let me know if I can clarify anything.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello!
Will you be updating these sizes to include larger ones? It’s beautiful!
Thank you!
Hi Heather,
Great question! We are currently going through our catalog of older patterns and updating them to reflect our current more inclusive size range, although I’m not sure when exactly we will be getting to this one. I’ll be sure to pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Great pattern! Just to confirm though.. I’m almost finished the front… I assume it should be the same length as the back? Thank you!
Hi Jo,
Thank you for writing in! Correct, you’ll be working the same amount of repeats as the Back and so the Back and Front should be the same length. Some knitters find that their gauge changes slightly as they knit, so not to worry if your front and back are not perfectly equal, blocking should take care of any small variances. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Hello,
Is there any way you can tell me the yardage used of the contrast colours? Thank you
Hi Gazelle,
Thanks for reaching out! Approximately 270 (295, 320, 350, 375) yards are required for CC1 and approximately 110 (130, 155, 175, 200) yards are required for CC2.
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi! I’m in love with this pattern, but I’m really confused about the sizing. I always take the smallest size of patterns, but I’m afraid this will be too large because of the ease. I’m measuring 32” chest size, would that mean that this sweater would be too big? I’ve no experience with adapting patterns, hence my hesitation. Thanks in advance for the help.
Hi Liesbeth,
Thanks for reaching out! If you have a 32″ bust I think the smallest size (33¼) should fit you very well! This size for a 32″ bust would only include about an 1¼” so it would fit you and not be too big! For more information to better understand ease I would recommend checking out our new excellent tutorial Understanding Ease + Selecting Your Size!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
love this pattern and would love to knit it for my granddaughter who is 9 years old,,,is there a youth version She wears size 8 clothing or medium at GAP
thanks
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we only have this pattern available in adult sizing, but thank you for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi! I decided that a slightly wider striped looked better in my yarn (4 stitches MC, 2 stitches CC). I’m almost done the first section but wondering what to about the upper body and sleeves. For the upper body, can I just slide/turn as needed? Thanks!
Hello!
Thank you for your question! With a larger stripe design for the upper body and sleeves, you can slide and turn as needed, following your existing larger stripe pattern. You may find that you need to turn more than slide with wider stripes, however everything should still work out just fine with larger stripes!
All the best,
Margaret