Circular Yoke Summer Shirt
Right about now, many of us are tucking our hand knits into beds of cedar shavings for the summer, but don’t toss the knitting needles in there, too! Warm weather never stopped us from casting on, and our Circular Yoke Summer Shirt knitting pattern in Cattail Silk is one great reason why!
The Circular Yoke Summer Shirt is light and airy, fresh and ventilating, just what a summer knit should be. Knit in the round from the bottom up, its beauty come from simple details, like pretty yoke decreases, gentle waist shaping, and no-fuss finishing.
Nearly the same as our original Silken Straw Summer Sweater, this version has simpler finishing and lots more sizes. The Cattail Silk also has a lighter drape and, with less shine than the Silken Straw, a more versatile wear-anywhere look.
And best news for last, you only need two or three skeins of Cattail Silk! We used cool and collected Lavender Daybreak, but our palette of eighteen colors is full of lots of pretty choices. And with a whole summer of knitting ahead, no need to choose just one!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
- 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cattail Silk, 100% silk yarn. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 618 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 945 (1090, 1240, 1415, 1520) (1655, 1805, 1955, 2105) yards required. We used the color Lavender Daybreak.
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 24-inch circular needles
- Size 34¾ only: US 3, 16-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
NOTE: If you want to use Magic Loop, you won’t need the 16- or 24-inch circular needles listed above… Just swap them for 32-inch ones!
GAUGE
28 stitches and 36 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, blocked
SIZES
NOTE: For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
34¾ (38¾, 42¾, 46¾, 50¾) (54¾, 58¾, 62¾, 66¾)
To fit actual chest circumference of 31-33 (35-37, 39-41, 43-45, 47-49) (51-53, 55-57, 59-61, 63-65) inches, with approximately 1¾-3¾ inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34¾ (38¾, 42¾, 46¾, 50¾) (54¾, 58¾, 62¾, 66¾) inches
- Finished Waist Circumference: 33¼ (37¼, 41¼, 44½, 48½) (52½, 56½, 60½, 64½) inches
- Finished Hip Circumference: 36½ (40½, 44½, 48, 52) (56, 60, 64, 68) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 18 inches
SAMPLE: The sweater shown here is size 38¾, worn with 3 inches of ease.
NOTE: We have updated this pattern to include more sizes. If, for some reason, you would like the original pattern, please contact customerservice@purlsoho.com, and we’ll send you the PDF!
PATTERN
BODY
BEGIN AT BOTTOM EDGE
Cast on 256 (284, 312, 336, 364) (392, 420, 448, 476) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place a unique marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Knit every round until piece measures 5½ inches from cast-on edge (unrolled). (NOTE: You may begin shaping earlier if you prefer to shorten the length from Bottom Edge to Underarms.)
Next Round: K128 (142, 156, 168, 182) (196, 210, 224, 238), place marker (pm), knit to end of round.
SHAPE BODY
*Decrease Round 1: Knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), knit to last 3 stitches, slip slip knit (ssk), k1. [1 stitch decreased]
Decrease Round 2: K1, knit 2 together (k2tog), knit to 3 stitches before next marker, ssk, k1, sm, k1, k2tog, knit to end of round. [3 stitches decreased]
Knit 8 rounds even, or for just under 1 inch.
Repeat from * 5 more times. [232 (260, 288, 312, 340) (368, 396, 424, 452) stitches remain]
Knit 10 rounds even, or for just over 1 inch. (NOTE: You may adjust the number of these rounds if preferred.)
**Increase Round 1: Knit to next marker, sm, knit to last stitch, make 1 right (m1R), k1. [1 stitch increased]
Increase Round 2: K1, make 1 left (m1L), knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L, knit to end of round. [3 stitches increased]
Knit 9 rounds even, or for 1 inch.
Repeat from ** 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 3, 3) more times. [244 (272, 300, 328, 356) (384, 412, 440, 468) stitches]
Knit every round until Body measures 18 inches from cast-on edge (rolled), or until desired length, ending last round 7 (9, 10, 12, 12) (12, 13, 13, 13) stitches before end-of-round marker.
BIND OFF FOR UNDERARMS
Bind off 14 (18, 20, 24, 24) (24, 26, 26, 26) stitches (removing end-of-round marker), knit to 7 (9, 10, 12, 12) (12, 13, 13, 13) stitches before next marker, bind off 14 (18, 20, 24, 24) (24, 26, 26, 26) stitches (removing marker), knit to first bind off. [216 (236, 260, 280, 308) (336, 360, 388, 416) stitches remain]
CAST ON FOR SLEEVES
Turn work so wrong side is facing you and cable cast on 67 (72, 80, 80, 91) (92, 100, 106, 107) stitches; turn so right side of work is facing you, and making sure cast on isn’t twisted, knit next 108 (118, 130, 140, 154) (168, 180, 194, 208) stitches (to next set of bound-off stitches); turn so wrong side is facing you and cable cast on 67 (72, 80, 80, 91) (92, 100, 106, 107) stitches; turn so right side is facing you, and again making sure cast on isn’t twisted, knit next 54 (59, 65, 70, 77) (84, 90, 97, 104) stitches, pm for new end of round. [350 (380, 420, 440, 490) (520, 560, 600, 630) stitches]
YOKE
NOTE: The end of round is now located at center back.
Knit every round until Sleeves measures 1¾ (2¼, 2¾, 3½, 3) (3¼, 3½, 3¾, 4) inches from cable-cast-on edge.
Decrease Round: *K3, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. [280 (304, 336, 352, 392) (416, 448, 480, 504) stitches remain]
Knit 16 (16, 16, 16, 12) (12, 12, 12, 12) rounds, or for 1¾ (1¾, 1¾, 1¾, 1¼) (1¼, 1¼, 1¼, 1¼) inches.
Decrease Round: *K2, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. [210 (228, 252, 264, 294) (312, 336, 360, 378) stitches remain]
Knit 9 rounds, or for one inch.
SIZES 50¾, 54¾, 58¾, 62¾, AND 66¾ ONLY
Decrease Round: *K– (–, –, –, 8) (5, 3, 2, 2), k2tog, repeat from * to last – (–, –, –, 4) (4, 1, 0, 2) stitch(es), knit to end of round. [– (–, –, –, 265) (268, 269, 270, 284) stitches remain]
Knit 9 rounds, or for one inch.
SHAPE NECKLINE
ALL SIZES
Set-Up Round: K95 (104, 116, 122, 122) (124, 124, 125, 132), bind off 20 (20, 20, 20, 21) (20, 21, 20, 20) stitches, knit to end-of-round marker, remove marker, knit to beginning of bind off. [190 (208, 232, 244, 244) (248, 248, 250, 264) stitches remain]
NOTE: From now on you will be working back and forth in rows, with each row ending at the Neckline edge. Also, for this section feel free to try a Sloped Bind Off for a neater finish!
Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 4 stitches, purl to end of row. [186 (204, 228, 240, 240) (244, 244, 246, 260) stitches remain]
Row 2 (right side): Bind off 4 stitches, knit to end of row. [182 (200, 224, 236, 236) (240, 240, 242, 256) stitches remain]
Row 3: Bind off 3 stitches, purl to end of row. [179 (197, 221, 233, 233) (237, 237, 239, 253) stitches remain]
Row 4: Bind off 3 stitches, knit to end of row. [176 (194, 218, 230, 230) (234, 234, 236, 250) stitches remain]
Row 5: P1, purl 2 together (p2tog), purl to last 3 stitches, p2tog through the back loop (p2tog tbl), p1. [174 (192, 216, 228, 228) (232, 232, 234, 248) stitches remain]
Row 6: K1, ssk, knit to the last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 7: *P1, p2tog, repeat from * to last 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) (5, 5, 4, 6) stitches, p1 (1, 1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 1, 3), p2tog tbl, p1. [115 (127, 143, 151, 151) (154, 154, 155, 165) stitches remain]
Row 8: Repeat Row 6. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 9: Purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 8 and 9 two more times. [109 (121, 137, 145, 145) (148, 148, 149, 159) stitches remain]
Bind off loosely in knit stitch.
FINISHING
BOTTOM, ARMHOLE, + NECKLINE EDGES
NOTE: Use 16-inch circular needles if making size 34¾.
Pick up and bind off around the Bottom, Armhole, and Neckline edges. Here’s how…
Picking up 1 stitch for each cast-on or bound-off stitch, and along the Neckline, for each edge stitch, pick up two stitches, *pass first stitch over, pick up one stitch, repeat from * around entire edge, cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.
WEAVE IN + BLOCK
Weave in the ends and wet block to finished dimensions.
LEARN ABOUT CATTAIL SILK + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
We used Cattail Silk for this pattern because its earthy, natural beauty brings a light drape and offhanded elegance to your knitting. A 100% mulberry silk yarn, Cattail Silk has a rustic spin with bitty nubs and very subtle variations in texture. Choose from a lovely bouquet of colors, and cast on with this fingering-weight yarn for a truly compelling knit!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Cattail Silk knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarn
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop silk yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I love this shirt, thank you!! I have some of your lovely line weight yarn just waiting for a special project, would this pattern work with that yarn too?
Thanks
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly can achieve a similar gauge using our Line Weight. I would suggest doing a gauge swatch to be sure that you can get the appropriate gauge. The thing to note is that Cattail Silk is quite a bit more robust than Line Weight. Line Weight is a single ply yarn and thus does not stand up as well to the type of friction that you may get under the armpits and where your arms touch your sides. It will make a very soft a lucious fabric but it is something to consider when making a garment!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
You look beautiful, Whitney!
Hi Leslie,
Thank you for your kind words! Our lovely model here is our excellent co-worker Kitania!
Best,
Cassy
well Kitania, you look beautiful and all these years i thought you were Whitney.
hello, so wonderfull.
which size for the model ? thanks
Hi Christine,
Thanks for writing in! The sweater pictured here is size 38 3/4 with 3 inches of ease!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Breathtaking!!
Can you advise the skill level? I’m new to knitting but this gorgeous sweater makes me desperately wish to learn!
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern could make for a good early or first sweater pattern. It includes decreasing stitches, casting on for sleeves and picking up stitches. I would suggest reading through the pattern in its entirety and being sure that you are comfortable with the techniques. We would be happy to answer any questions that you may have!
Best,
Cassy
I love this simple sweater, will probably try to make it. Is it possible to include metric sizes to your patterns? It would greatly help me.
Thanks
Hello Margaret,
Thank you for writing in and giving us your feedback! It is so nice to hear you love this sweater. I will pass your suggestion along.
-Marilla
How would this be for a beginner sweater project? I’ve made socks, hats, scarves, mittens and shawls but no sweaters. Thank you for the free pattern. You give so many free pattern which is so very generous of you.
Hi Angie,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! This pattern could make for a good early or first sweater pattern. If you have made socks and mittens, you should be able to achieve this lovely sweater! It includes decreasing stitches, casting on for sleeves and picking up stitches. I would suggest reading through the pattern in its entirety and being sure that you are comfortable with the techniques. We would be happy to answer any questions that you may have!
Best,
Cassy
Cute idea, but it would be much more appealing to me if it were top down.
Hello Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! I will pass along your suggestion.
-Marilla
I think I’d love to make this as a little dress. It would be comfy and pretty to wear throughout the summer.
Cute top! What’s the actual yardage required for the 36 1/2 bust circumference size (to fit 34 1/2 actual bust measurement)?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! The 36 1/2″ size uses approximately 1000 yards of the Cattail Silk!
Best,
Cassy
Love this pattern! I am tall and would like it a bit longer than 18″; will there be enough extra with three skeins (for the 42-44″ bust) or should I purchase a fourth to be on the safe side?
Hi,
Thanks for writing in! If you were to get 3 skeins of the Cattail Silk, you would certainly be able to lengthen the 42 or 44 inch size!
Best,
Cassy
This is so lovely! Could you recommend some alternative yarns that would work for this? I have an extra skein of Linen Quill I thought might be ok but wanted to check first. Thanks!
Hi Stefani,
Thanks for the kind words! This top would work well using Linen Quill. I would be sure to knit a gauge swatch to be sure that you are getting the correct gauge for this lovely top!
Best,
Cassy
I love this summer sweater. My chest circumference is 42 1/2 inches. What size do you think I should make? Thank you.
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! Based on your chest circumference, I would suggest knitting the 44 1/2 size. This will give you 2 inches of positive ease and it should fit similarly to our sample above!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Lovely pattern. For the finishing, could one use a crochet chain stitch instead of the pick-up and bind off method?
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly can. We tried a few different finishes and found the pick-up and bind off was the cleanest but you certainly use a different method.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Any chance this can be knit top down? I love the yoke but don’t want as long a body.
Hello Jana,
Thanks for writing in! If you prefer a shorter body, all you need to do is to stop knitting before you get to 5 1/2″. I hope this helps!
-Marilla
I don’t understand the instructions for finishing (pickup and bind off – especially the part about picking up 2 stitches for each edge stitch on the neck). More detailed instructions for this finish and hopefully some illustrations would be great. Thanks.
Hi Marge,
Thank you for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties with finishing here. At present, we do not have plans for further illustrations for this pattern. However, we do have tutorials for picking up stitches that might be of some help to you!
To clarify the directions, as you pick up stitches, you will bind them off. For example, when beginning, you will pick up 1 stitch and then the next and then pass the first stitch over the first. You will then pick up another stitch and pass the the second stitch over this third stitch, etc. Along the bottom and the arm holes, you will pick up 1 stitch for each cast-on or bound off stitch. Along the neckline, you will pick up 2 stitches for every stitch (1 stitch through each leg of each knit stitch).
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Quick question on finishing (and so far the sweater is looking great, thanks for thebpattern!). When it says to pick up 2 stitches on the neck , after picking up the two stitches do you treat them as one and bind the two stitches off together? So you’d pick up 2 stitches and bind them off together by passing the 2 previous stitches over together? Thanks, can’t wait to finish and wear this while the weather is still warm!
Hello Sharon,
Thanks for writing in and congrats on being so close to finishing this project! After picking up those two stitches you will treat them as two stitches, meaning to bind them off you will pull the first over the second. “Pass the first stitch over, pick up one stitch, repeat from * around entire edge, cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.”
I hope this clears things up! Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Warmly,
Marilla
Lovely sweater, but …
the pattern would be so much simpler if you started the rounds at the centre back from the beginning – all the waist shaping can happen on one row, no mucking about with ending a few sts early to centre the underarm sts, then having a half row jog on the back to get a new beg of row … just mark the sides (1/4, 1/2. 1/4) for the waist and sleeve bits. Easy peasy.
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for the suggestion and we will take it into account with future patterns. Feel free to knit the pattern however you like! I hope you’ll enjoy the end result.
Best,
Adam
I am getting a gauge very different from pattern.
With US 3 28 st = 6.25 I
US 2 28 st = 5 in
I want o make size 33-34 but even using smallest size directions it will be too big
Hi Millie,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having challenges with gauge here. I would suggest that, if you have not, that you block your swatches and once dry, measure them again. If the gauge is still off for you, you may need to go down another needle size to get the gauge needed for this lovely shirt.
Best,
Cassy
I already have some silken straw, which I would like to use. I’ve found that size 4 needles make my knit too loose. Do you think using the silken straw in this pattern in size 3’s would work?
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for the question. If you aren’t happy with the stitch definition on a US 4, then I would go down to a 3. Just make sure you are getting gauge or close to it. Best of luck!
Adam
Using the cattail silk and wonder if you have a suggested cast-on, or doesn’t it matter.
Hi Martha,
Thank you for the question. A long-tail cast on or really any cast on of your choice will do. Best of luck!
Adam
Love the sweater, but would like to know if it is possible to extend the sleeves to just above the elbow.
Would I need extra yarn and how often would I decrease the width as I lengthen the sleeve?
Thanks
Ann
Hi Ann,
Thanks for the question. It is possible to make half sleeves with this pattern but you wouldn’t be able to knit them top down since this is a bottom up construction. Based on the size you are knitting and your personal measurements you’ll want to start the sleeves with a cast on that you are comfortable with around your elbow and increase evenly to the amount that is required for your sleeve section in the pattern. Best of luck on customizing the pattern!
Adam
Love this pattern but could it be made top down rather than bottom up so I can get the most yardage from the yarn i want to use? I’m always short or have excess when i do these types of patterns bottom up. Thanks Lori
Hi Lori,
Thanks for writing in! Converting this pattern to be top down would require quite a bit of work. we do not have the resources to do so at present but I will pass your request along.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I have a question about an instruction in the BODY section of this pattern. After the Decrease Rounds 1 and 2, the next instruction is to “Knit 8 rounds.” Are these rounds knit only, or are they repeats of the decrease rounds? Thanks!
Hello Ann,
Thanks for writing in! These are 8 rows of regular old knitting.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
I am knitting this top with 100% silk Araucania Cana Ruca. I am knitting size 36 1/2.
My problem is that the finished hip circumference says it should be 38 1/4. I am getting gauge with a size 2 needle and my piece is measuring 45 inches in circumference. What could be wrong? Does the finish on the bottom edge tighten up the piece? Is there a tutorial on how to finish the edge?
Hi Sue Ann,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear about your difficulties. While I am not familiar with the yarn that you are using, so long as you can get gauge and the fabric is pleasing, it should work. As to the size that you are getting, it does sound as though you are not getting gauge. With a cast on of 268 stitches and a gauge of 7 stitches per inch, the size of the bottom should be 38 1/4 inches. At 45 inches, you are getting roughly 6 stitches per inch. I would suggest going down a needle size to try to get gauge as the pattern will not tighten up on finishing.
At present, we do not have a tutorial for the finishing. We do have a tutorial for picking up stitches that might be helpful for you. It can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/picking-up-stitches/
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I admit that I am a wonderful technician and (retired) tester. But, I have to add a caveat to say that I am THE worst at maths and designing. I am a total incompetent! So, I am an absolute simpleton when it comes to making adjustments to sizing of an already designed anything. I love this Tee shirt design but, I am an ample who rarely gets a chance at a good deal of patterns. I am a very ample apple shaped wheeble! Is it possible to plan tops like this for ample apples in future?
Hi Jan,
Thank you for writing in! We will certainly take your request into consideration in the future. I will add your voice to those asking for more sizes in our patterns!
Best,
Cassy
Would a 32 inch long cable be too long? I am likely to make size 40.5
Thanks!
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! For the 40.5 size, you could get away with using a 32″ needle for most of the project but as you decrease for the yoke, a 32″ needle will be too long and you will need the 24″.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks Cassy,
I have started this project and I now have a question about the directions:
I have my 5.5 inches, I have marked the 156 stitches which is 1/2 of the circumference. I am ready for the decrease round # 2. It says to knit to 3 stitches before the first marker. Is the first marker the marker that begins the round or is it the marker that I put at the 156 inches. I am assuming it is the one at the 156 inches because, if not, there is nothing to knit to the end of the round. Sorry that for the confusion, but I feel like the first marker is the one placed at the beginning of the round where I joined for working in the round.
Thanks for your help!
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing back! The “first marker mentioned here will not be the beginning of round marker but rather the marker at the midway point!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I have ordered some cattail and I want to make this as a short dress. I will be making the size 34 3/4, how much length would one extra skein give me with this size?
Now I seem to be in between sizes (bust 23 3/4, hips 37). I did two gauges swatches with the cattail silk, the number 3 needles give me a swatch that is a bit smaller than 4″ (around 3.75) and the number 4 needles give me a swatch that is a little bigger (around 4.25).
Based on this info, would you recommend that I knit the 34 3/4 with number 4 needles or the 36 1/2 with number 3 needles.
Thank you so much in advance, I am very excited to get started!
Hi Pastille,
Thanks for writing in! Picking a size can be very tricky sometimes. We suggest 3 inches of positive ease on this garment. That is to say that you would add 3 inches to your bust measurement and choose the nearest size. With the gauge you are getting and casting on the 34 1/2, using the size US 4, you will effectively get the next size up (36 1/2). Using the size US 3, you will effectively get slightly larger than the smallest size. Based on your hip size, using US 4 would work best although you will have a fair amount of extra fabric in the bust area. You could always complete more decrease rows to get to a smaller bust size, being careful to knit to the correct length of the garment.
As to lengthening the garment from a shirt to a dress, if you are knitting the size 34 3/4, I additional skein should get you roughly ~15 inches in additional length which may be too short for good coverage on a dress depending on your height. I would suggest measuring a dress you already like the length of to get an idea of length and then perhaps purchase 2 additional skeins to get the correct amount of length.
I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Cassy
Hi Cassy,
Thank you so much for you response. That does clear things up a bit but I have another question. If I knit the size 34 1/2, would it eliminate the extra room in the bust, and still fall nicely, if after decreasing for the waistline, I just knit straight up instead of increasing and then did the underarms according to the pattern or would that mess up the calculations for the neckline?
Another option would be phasing from the 34 1/2 to the smallest size at the waistline?
The extra 15 inches or so sounds to be more than enough, short and cute!
I’m writing again because I just noticed a major typo in my first question. My hips are indeed 37 inches, but my bust is 32 1/2 !
Do you think that knitting the 34 1/2 with a 4 needle, with the gauge of 4 1/4 inches, would still be too roomy in the bust?
Would this still be better than knitting the 36 1/2 size with a 3 needle when my swatch is 3 3/4 inches?
Thanks again and I’m sorry for the confusion!
Thanks again!
Hi Pastille,
Thanks for writing back! Thanks for the update! In the case of the amended measurements, I would knit the 34 3/4 using the US 4. You should have just about the correct amount of ease in the bust. If when you are knitting it, the bust seems to large, you could decrease to the smaller size for the waist shaping and then follow the directions for the size for the remainder of the top!
I hope that that helps!
Cassy
That’s very helpful, thanks!
Hi Cassy,
I am sorry to be such a bother on this issue – it is tough when my gauge is between needles!
I am looking at my two swatches and the one knit on the needle 3 looks nicer, the needle 4 stitch is bigger, possibly too big for the yarn in my opinion (for this pattern at least).
So I would like to knit with needle 3 but my gauge gives me 3 3/4″. Is there a way to calculate the final measurements if I knit the size 36 1/2 ? This should be my last question, hoping to start on the weekend and everything else on this lovely pattern looks very clear 🙂
Thanks again for all of your help!
Hi Pastille,
Happy to help! If you like the fabric on the US 3s, you can certainly proceed using them. To figure out how large a particular size will be, count the number of stitches per inch that you are getting on your swatch and divide the number of stitches that you have at given point in the pattern (the cast on for the hips and the largest number in the body section for the bust). The resulting number will be the number of inches that you have at that point. For example, using the gauge of the pattern, a cast on of 236 sts divided by 7 stitches per inch, will yield 33 3/4 inches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you so much, I’ve figured it out 🙂
Thanks for your pattern, you are a blessing to knitters everywhere
Lovely, simple, elegant. Thank you.
I love this pattern and decided to treat myself to some Cattail silk. I haven’t used 100% silk before. What kind of needle do you suggest? Are steel needles preferable when knitting with silk?
Hi Nancy,
The pattern suggests a 3 needle, you will want to do a gauge swatch to see if that size works for you. If you have not used 100% silk before, I would recommend using bamboo needles you will get a better grip. Metal needles can be very slippery.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Thank you very much for this pattern. It is y first sweater and definitely a success! I recommend it for those who, like me, have knit scarves, cowls, mittens, hats and would like to move smoothly towards more challenging projects…
I am knitting this top and am thinking that I would like to make a loose fitting cardigan to fit over it. Do you have a pattern or can you suggest one? Thank you, Sally
Hi Sally,
Thanks for writing in! What a lovely idea! I think that our Folded Square Cardigan would be lovely with this shirt and the bamboo would be great for warmer weather! If you would like a warmer sweater, the Olson would be quite lovely too!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you. Those are two lovely suggestions. I might do both!
Hi love the pattern! I already finished the Terrace wrap in the cattail silk and it came out awesome!
So, my question is if I want to make the tee shirt tunic length am I correct in assuming that I simply add more inches onto the beginning of the piece before the decrease rows? OR do I have to increase allowing for hips?
Hi Marie,
Thanks for reaching out and for the kind words! This would depend on how long you are planning on making the top and how much ease you want over your hips. Unfortunately we can’t do full pattern alterations in the comment section, but with a bit of math and measuring it shouldn’t be too hard to customize this pattern yourself!
You could measure your hips where you want the bottom of the top to hit and compare that to the measurements we give on the pattern schematic for your size, and decide from there if you are happy with how it will fit or if you need to add more stitches. If you do cast on more stitches, you will also have to work more decrease rows to compensate and make sure the waist and bust measurements match the pattern. It may be helpful to draw up your own schematic to determine where to begin the decreases to fit your body.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I am finished with the sweater and working on the edges. Am I supposed to pick up 2 stitches for every stitch around the neck edge…or only for those stitches that are not bound-off?
Hello Cathi,
Thank you for writing us and congratulations on being almost done with your new summer shirt! You will be picking up 1 stitch for each cast-on or bound-off stitch, and along the neckline. For each edge stitch you will pick up two stitches. I hope this clears things up for you and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Pretty top, what are the washing instructions for the silk yarn? Thanks!
Hello Jodie,
Thank you for reaching out! Our Cattail Silk is machine washable- our recommended care is “Machine wash cold, tumble dry low”.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I love this! Exactly what I have been looking for. Is there a linen yarn that might work as well? Also, can I make it a bit longer (2-3″) with the suggested 2 skeins of Cattail Silk?
Thanks,
Kristin
PS I am an ‘advanced’ beginner. Have done cables, checkers, seed stitch, and am currently making lattice wrap, but do not have sweater or sock experience. Made a couple of sweaters quite a few years ago, can increase/decrease, etc. Have returned to knitting (compulsively, of course!) in the last couple of years. Not too terribly experienced 🙂 Would this be a ‘doable’ project for me?
Thank you again!
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for reaching out and for the kind words! I definitely think this project is achievable considering you already have experience with most of the techniques we use – I would suggest reading through the pattern in its entirety and being sure that you are comfortable everything before starting. We would be happy to answer any questions that come up along the way!
The yardage requirement does depend on which size you are making. If you are making any of the first four sizes you should have plenty of yardage to add a few more inches of length, but if you are making a larger size I would suggest having a third skein.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Also, our Field Linen would be a lovely option if you would prefer a linen top!
Best,
Julianna
Wondering if it would be possible to knit longer sleeves on this pattern?
Hi Jayne,
Great question! I can think of two ways to add a bit of length to the sleeves. The easier method would be to pick up stitches around the armholes after finishing the top and knit for a few inches, decreasing as necessary to match the shape of your arms, though this will create a visible seam and may result in flared or boxy sleeves.
The second method will be seamless and may fit the contours of your arms and shoulders better, but it will require a bit of work on your part to rewrite the pattern. I would recommend looking at the method of attaching sleeves used on our Everyday Linen Raglan. You will then need to figure out how long you want the sleeves, the rate of decrease and use your gauge to determine a cast-on number. This may be a bit beyond what you would like to bite off but it would be a fun challenge.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Is it possible to have a bigger size available? I need a 48-50 bust size one. Thank you!
Hi Emilia,
We are very sorry that our patterns aren’t currently in your size range. We really do appreciate that bodies come in all shapes and sizes and share your concern that patterns be as inclusive as possible. As a small company, we haven’t yet had the resources to offer the scope of sizes we would like to, but as our company grows, we have been steadily expanding that range and plan to continue to do so!
We will certainly take your request into consideration in the future. I will add your voice to those asking for more sizes in our patterns!
Best,
Julianna
This is so pretty. I prefer more length to my sleeves. Is there a way to add several inches to the sleeve length? I usually knit socks so please excuse my lack of knowledge avout sweaters.
Hi Mary,
Great question! I can think of two ways to add a bit of length to the sleeves. The easier method would be to pick up stitches around the armholes after finishing the top and knit for a few inches, decreasing as necessary to match the shape of your arms, though this will create a visible seam and may result in flared or boxy sleeves.
The second method will be seamless and may fit the contours of your arms and shoulders better, but it will require a bit of work on your part to rewrite the pattern. I would recommend looking at the method of attaching sleeves used on our Everyday Linen Raglan. You will then need to figure out how long you want the sleeves, the rate of decrease and use your gauge to determine a cast-on number. This may be a bit beyond what you would like to bite off but it would be a fun challenge.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thanks for the suggestions.
Hi,
I’m wondering what the yardage requirements of this garment is- I can approximate from the yarn recommendation but I’d love to know specifics. Thanks!
Hello Jane,
Thank you for reaching out! For this shirt we used approximately 875 (950, 1000, 1060, 1110, 1170, 1220, 1265) for each size.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Love, love. love this pattern. Thank you for sharing. If I wanted the sleeves a little longer do I just continue or should I add a few decreases? Don’t want to mess this up.
Barbara
Hello Barbara,
Thank you for reaching out- great question!
There are a couple of ways to add a bit of length to the sleeves. The easier method would be to pick up stitches around the armholes after finishing the top and knit for a few inches, decreasing as necessary to match the shape of your arms, though this will create a visible seam and may result in flared or boxy sleeves.
The second method will be seamless and may fit the contours of your arms and shoulders better, but it will require a bit of work on your part to rewrite the pattern. I would recommend looking at the method of attaching sleeves used on our Everyday Linen Raglan. You will then need to figure out how long you want the sleeves, the rate of decrease and use your gauge to determine a cast-on number. This may be a bit beyond what you would like to bite off but it would be a fun challenge.
Enjoy your customization adventure- happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am a newbie to garment knitting but love, love, love this shirt. The instructions look straight forward to me except for “NOTE: From now on you will be working back and forth in rows, with each row ending at the neckline edge. ” I am not sure I understand how to work back and forth in rows if I am knitting in the round. I apologize if this sounds like a very simplistic question to you. Thanks, Debbie
Hello Debbie,
Thank you for writing- there are no stupid questions! Because you have bound off 20 stitches you will no longer be knitting in the round. All we mean by “you will be working back and forth in rows” is that you will no longer be knitting in the round.
I hope this clears things up and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
I made this last year and the result was lovely, thank you for the beautiful pattern! I am thinking about making another but I want to put a ruffle on the sleeve. Do you think it would work if I cast on extra stitches for the cap sleeve and decrease to end up with the correct number of stitches for the yoke decreases ? Thanks so much 🙂
Hi Pastille,
Thanks for writing in! Although that would create a ruffled effect, I think you would be able to create a more predictable and controlled ruffle by picking up stitches around the sleeve opening after completing the top and then increasing rapidly for a few rows. Also, if you are unhappy with how they look and want to change the length of the ruffle or frequency of the increases, it would be much less work to take out and start over if necessary!
Best of luck, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
This is my FIRST garment! I am beyond excited to have finished it. AND, it fits! Thank you so much for the clear directions. After fifty years, I picked up knitting again and got the courage to try this. Thanks soooo much!
Forgive me if this question has been asked, but when taking measurements for the bust, does one use their bra size or measure the actual circumference including the breast? I just want to make sure I order the correct amount of yarn. Thanks!
Hi Jenna,
Thanks for writing in, and you’re not alone – measuring for a garment raises lots of questions! You should be measuring yourself, wearing whatever undergarments you plan on wearing under the top, around the largest part of your bust to get your actual chest circumference.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
HI – I would love to knit this – but i am a “strictly” jewel tone person as I am very pale and have silvery hair. Can anyone suggest another Purl Soho yarn in rich deep strong colors that I could use for this gorgeous top? Thank you so much!
Hello Clarice,
Thank you for reaching out! I would recommend looking at our Linen Quill color offerings, as we just added several new beautiful options.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
This pattern is so pretty. I have some Koigu merino wool I want to use up. Do you think it will be to stiff for this? If so can you recommend another tank top pattern?
Love your site, patterns and wool. Thanks
Hi Zoe,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! Although I suspect you are correct that Koigu KPM would not have the same drape at this gauge, you could always knit and block a swatch to see how it feels before you make a final decision! I think you might also be happy with Koigu either in our Cable Back Shell or held double for our Over-the-Top Top.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Can you me me how tall the model is? I’m 5’3” and shortening the first 5.5” of the pattern and knowing the height of the model would help me make mine shorter.
Hello Cornelia,
Thank you for reaching out! I believe Kitania is about 5’7″. You might also do a couple of quick measurements of yourself to compare to the finished measurements of the piece to really get the fit you are looking for!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Is there a wool yarn that would work for this pattern? I’d like to make a winter version to wear over a tee or blouse. Thanks!
Hi Heather,
Thanks for writing in! I think this top would be lovely in either Linen Quill or Anzula Squishy for a cool weather version!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Help! I’m knitting this wonderful top and I’m almost to the shape neckline, and I read ahead the directions mention knit to next marker, some how I only have the one marking the center of the front! Where do the other markers go? I am making the largest size and will soon have the 264 stitched.
Thank you in advance for any help.
Hi Belinda,
Thanks for writing in! Although the pattern says “next marker,” it is correct that you will only have one marker at the time. At this point you will be removing the one marker and knitting to the end of the stitches on the needle, and the rest of the neck shaping is worked back and forth in rows.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve made this project three times with great results. I’d like to do another one with long sleeves. Is there a variation on the pattern with long sleeves? Thanks!
Hello Leslie,
Thank you for reaching out! While we do not have a long sleeved version of this sweater I would check out our Lightweight Raglan Sweater or our Top-Down Circular Yoke Pullover.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello! I am making this pattern and was wondering would it be possible to turn it into a dress? If so how long would it have to create the body? The dress would be above the knees.
Thanks!!
Hello Melissa,
Thank you for reaching out! If you wanted to turn this pattern into a dress you will want to consider your height and the length between your hip and where you would like the dress to end. You will also want to consider adding shaping around the hips. It will require some experimenting, but I think it could be really beautiful!
Good luck and let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
Melissa, I realize this is two years later and you’ve probably figured things out but I just made this into a dress and I made the total length from the armpit to the hem 25.5”. I already had a dress that I used as my template but just finished it and I’m in love! Good luck!
This is a beautiful shirt; however, I’d just like to add that if you’re making one of the larger sizes (I’m trying to make the 40.5), the 24-inch cable wasn’t long enough for me. I’ve frogged twice because the stitches we’re twisted. Off to buy a longer cable…
Hi Meghan,
Thanks for the tip! It can be quite frustrating to get a twist in your stitches, especially with such a large cast on! Using a longer needle will definitely help, but you will probably need to switch back to the smaller needle as you work the yoke decreases.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
could this be knit in the new sweetgrass yarn?
Hello Susan,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes- Sweetgrass has a very similar gauge to Cattail silk so it should work beautifully. I would, as always, knit up a gauge swatch before jumping in.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I knitted this top in size 40 1/2 in Cattail Silk. The bust measurement came out exactly right but the bottom edge is 48″ around and the finished waist is 40″ – far too loose. I knit to gauge and all other measurements are correct, so I don’t know why or how this happened. Can this be a mistake on the pattern ? I am planning to knit the Sayer top and cannot figure out which size to make. What do you suggest?
Hi Sally,
Thanks for reaching out! That is an odd problem – the cast on stitch counts in the pattern are correct, so if your gauge is correct it should match the schematic. If the bust measurement is correct and the waist measurement is not too far off (our schematic lists 38 3/4″ for the waist, so 40″ is only a little more than an inch larger than ours), but the hem turned out almost 6″ too large, is it possible that you used a loose style of cast on, such as a knit-on or backwards loop cast on, or the hem was over stretched in blocking? We recommend washing Cattail Silk in the machine on a cold, gentle cycle, and tumble drying low, and in my experience the stitches tighten up a bit after a trip through the washer and dryer, so I would try that to see if it improves the fit of the top.
For Sayer, I would suggest measuring the width of the piece at the bottom after you have finished a few inches to make sure it matches the schematic before you get too far. If you find that your cast on stretches out more than you would like, I would recommend using a Long Tail Cast On if you don’t already and possibly working it on a smaller needle before switching to your main needle size for the rest of the top.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love this pattern
Just finished it
In cattail silk
But the bottom edge really curls up when I wear it
Perhaps I need to steam it again
Any suggestions
Thanks!
Hello Lorraine,
Thank you for reaching out! I would reccomend wet blocking it to help relax the fibers a bit more.
I hope this helps and let us know if it continues to be an issue!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Garter stitch, or plain knit has a tendency to curl. If you knit the first row tbl this does not happen.
I’ve nearly completed this lovely shirt after a year of working on it off and on and between projects and it fits perfectly! The only thing remaining to do is the finishing edge on the neckline. I am struggling and wonder if you could advise me. The armholes and bottom are done and were relatively easy to do using a crochet hook to bind off the stitches. With such fine yarn, how does one bind off with two stitches for every stitch? I’m assuming that the needle enters each leg of the stitch from the center outward. Is this correct? If so, how is it done without making a mess of the neckline? I would love to wear this shirt before the cold weather sets in, so please respond. Thanks in advance!
Hello Linda,
Thank you for reaching out, I’m so happy to hear that your shirt has come out so well! This is a great questions, It sounds like you have the right idea. You have your working yarn which you will pick up by inserting your needle into your cast on stitch and picking up your working yarn to create a stitch. I am always going back to our tutorial when I need to pick up stitches in a pattern.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions or if this doesn’t answer your question.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Would I be able to knit this lovely top in something a wee bit heavier in weight… just a bit more substantial? What yarn would be best to use and what size knitting needles? The pattern is beautiful and the design is perfect for me. I’m a little ‘hippy’ but more slender going higher up. Your thoughts would be so welcome!
Thank you,
Ina
Hello Ina,
Thank you for reaching out! I would recommend sticking with the same weight, but going to a warmer yarn. I would check out our Linen Quill or Line Weight as alternatives. You might also be interested in looking into our Top-Down Circular Yoke Pullover which is knit up in our Flax Down, though it does have different proportions.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi. I really love this top and I am in the midst of making one. Afterthought cable cast on, when I tried to knit these stitches , they are all crowded at this limited space and pulling the stitches at the underarms. Am I doing a mistake or is there a trick to do this? Thanks
Hello Yin,
Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your cast on might have been to tight. I would recommend being careful to both to cast off on the looser side for underarms and then also cable cast on with some looseness.
I hope this is helpful and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hello! I recently purchased one of the Mineral Silk mini-skein packs. I was thinking that I could cast on and maybe knit one row, and bind off at the end with Mineral Silk, to add a little sparkle to the top! Do you think that would work out? I was thinking of using the i-cord cast on so the cast-on edge would be a little decorative. Would that be okay, or would the cast-on be too tight?
Hi Vandana,
Thanks for reaching out, and what a lovely idea! Mineral Silk is a lighter weight yarn than Cattail Silk, so I would definitely recommend swatching with both yarns separately to make sure the gauge won’t be significantly affected by switching, even for just a few rows. You may find that Mineral Silk held double is a closer match to Cattail Silk! And yes, I think an i-cord cast on would be a beautiful unique touch!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I want to make this summer sweater using my Sparrow linen yarn. I have 6 yarn skeins. What is the largest patterns size I could make?
Hi Kathryn,
Thanks for reaching out! You will need 875 (950, 1000, 1060, 1110, 1170, 1220, 1265) yards for each size of this shirt. With 6 skeins of your yarn, I believe the largest size you could make is a 36 1/2.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’ve knit to “Shape Neckline” and I’m confused about where in Round 1 the 20 stitch bind off should go. I don’t think my markers are where they should be, however, I do have the beginning round at the center back. Should the 20 stitch bind off be at the center front?
Thanks,
Judy
Hi Judy,
Great question! Yes, the 20 stitches should be at the center of the front, directly opposite the center back marker. If your center back marker is placed correctly, you can take your total number of stitches, subtract 20, and divide by two to determine how many stitches to knit before starting the bind off.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is my first attempt at a sweater/shirt so I’m a little nervous. I am not very good at finishing, so I’m hoping this is a good first sweater. I’d like to make this a short length, do you have any recommendations for doing so?
Hi Fay,
Thank you for writing in! I would be happy to help you with this question, as modifications can really make a project yours! My favorite way to determine what body length I want for garment projects is to measure a favorite top that I currently own; find a top that hits exactly where you’d like your Summer Shirt to and measure the length from underarm to hem. Once you have this measurement, take a pencil or pen and change the last paragraph of the Body section to the following:
Knit every round until Body measures (your measurement) from cast-on edge (rolled), ending last round 6 (7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before end-of-round marker.
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out if you have any further questions!
Gaby
I love your patterns and tutorials! While I’m currently using a stash yarn in acrylic, I’m hoping to buy ‘appropriate’ yarns soon! My issue is this: using my stash acrylic yarn, my edges are curling quite a bit. Do you have any suggestions, or is this an artifact of the acrylic that the suggested yarn wouldn’t create.
Thanks very much!
Amanda C
Hi Amanda
Thanks for writing in! After you finish knitting there is an edging that is picked up and knit around the hem, neckline, and armholes, and this should eliminate some of the curling you are experiencing. Most of the rolling you’re seeing now should be eliminated once you block (soak or steam) your shirt, but be sure to check the yarn label for the appropriate way to handle the acrylic because too hot of steam could possibly damage the yarn. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting
Jessica
Thank you very much! I’ve started the edging and I’m still seeing the curling, so I wanted to check that the blocking would help. I’ll keep going, thanks for the quick reply!
Amanda C
would it be ok to finish the neckline using the 1 stitch (rather than 2) method? I’m still finding the 2 stitch method a bit confusing.
thank you!
Hi Jodee,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you should be finishing the neckline and the armholes using the same method! The difference in terminology is to indicate that parts of the neckline ar formed by row edges, rather than just cast off stitches. You should be picking up one stitch per row or bound off stitch and casting them off immediately, just as you did around the armholes!
I hope that clears things up!
I have just started this top. I cast on for the 40.5 size (to accommodate my hips) but want to reduce to the 38.75 size for the chest and waist. How do you suggest I do the shaping? I am using Knitting for Olive pure silk.
Hi Karen,
Great question! I would suggest simply continuing to decrease every 10th row, or every inch, as already established until you reach the right number of stitches, which should take three additional decrease rows.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you – I will try that.
I LOVE this pattern. A little confused about the finishing. I’m picking up and binding off on a bound off edge? Binding off in the normal manner as you pick up? Is this to help with the curling. I find the armholes are too big and showing quite a bit of my bra. Will this help with that?
Hi Beth,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you will be picking up and binding off on the edge you just bound off on. The most important step for flattening out any rolling edges will be blocking the finished top, but this edging should tighten up the openings slightly so the armhole will get a little smaller. If you find that the armholes are still too big, you could try picking up 4 stitches out of every 5 or 3 out of every 4 to tighten things up a tiny bit more!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I just completed this sweater. it is so lovely but even though I steamed and blocked, the lower edge really rolls up. thanks so much Lorraine
This is my first attempt in knitting a sweater in the round. Being only 5 ft and pear shaped I have some adjustments that need to be made in this pattern. I need to decrease the underarm to bottom edge by ~ 5 inches AND I have to cast on more stitches to accommodate the hip size. So in order to obtain a smaller waist and bust size I know I need to decrease more stitches to obtain the waist and bust measurement I need. Not sure how to do this without adding more rounds but then it would lengthen the underarm to bottom edge. Do I just knit less rounds within each decrease repeat and/or less rows prior and after the rows that require decreases and increases. I need a finished hip of 40 inches but the waist is 32 and bust is 34. Then my row gauge does not match the stitch gauge which then confuses me more. (28 stitches/41 rows). Thanks so much for your help. Tina
Hi Tina,
Thanks for reaching out, I am happy to help! First off and most importantly you need to adjust your gauge so that it is consistent with the pattern before making any adjustments. Out tutorial All About Gauge is an excellent resource to use! It may take a bit of trial and error to get the right results, but I believe that the best solution would be to knit less rounds in every decrease row rather than knitting less before and after the decreases. Make sure to keep it consistent with each round so that the decreases stay even throughout!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions you may have while working on this!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Gorgeous pattern! New lockdown knitter here, this will be my first sweater/shirt. I’m not sure I understand how the sleeves are made. Why do we need to turn the work on the wrong side, then right side, and so on?
I’m translating the pattern in French (and cm), would you like a copy?
Hi Margaux,
Thanks for writing in! You are turning the work so the wrong side is facing you just to cable cast in the stitches so that the seam will be on the inside of the shirt and hidden more rather than on the outside!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Got it, thanks! Really appreciate your help 🙂
I’ve knit this sweater once and I love it. I’d like to do it again in a brighter white than is available the cattail silk line and was looking at the swan white in Burnish. I realize that I will need to pay attention to yardage but do you think this would make a good yarn substitution? I’ve never knit with bamboo.
Thanks, Heather
Hi Heather,
Thanks for reaching out! I think Burnish would be an excellent option for this pattern! Bamboo is great to work with, this yarn has a beautiful drape and slight sheen. I would just recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thanks so much!
I am knitting size 46 3/4. My question relates to the number of stitches I should have –
The pattern states: Repeat from * 5 more times. [232 (260, 288, 312, 340) (368, 396, 424, 452) stitches remain]
This is fine (312) but the next count states: Repeat from ** 2 more times. [244 (272, 300, 328, 356) (384, 412, 440, 468) stitches]
So, I should have 328 stitches at this point however I will only have 324 made up as 312 + (increase 4 + increase 4 two more times) = 312 + 12 = 324 not 328.
Can you clarify please. Thank you.
Hi Anne,
Thank you for writing in with this question! We are so glad you brought this to our attention, and our design team is actively looking at this for editing, since there definitely seems to be an error here. While we work on publishing an official errata for this, we suggest working one more repeat of the increase section to reach the 328 stitches needed!
We will follow up once our edit has been published, and thank you again for helping to make our patterns better!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you.
Hello! this is a beautiful pattern! I am looking forward to making it for my cousin. 🙂
I’m one of those “bad” knitters who have never done a gauge swatch. Whoops. I read the article “All About Gauge”, which I found very helpful! However, I am still confused by one little word: 28 stitches and 36 “rounds”.
Why “rounds” and not “rows”? Surely the gauge swatch should not be knit in the round?
I appreciate the guidance as I try to reform my ways- so I don’t have to re-form the shirt after weeks of knitting! 😉
Hi Anita,
Thanks for reaching out! Because this pattern is knit primarily in the round, we recommend swatching in the round as well, since that will provide the most accurate gauge measurement. You can learn more about the technique of swatching for circular gauge in this tutorial. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I have finished the project! However, though making a gauge swatch, the size of the knit is much, much larger than intended…hmm.
But my main issue is that the place where I changed skeins has pulled horribly, causing an ugly “line” across the row. (It’s the the yarn got pulled very tight and collapsed part of a row.) I have tried easing and teasing it, but to no avail. Any ideas?
Tips on joining skeins of silk yarn / a note in the pattern to look up the suggested methods would be helpful! Never having knit with silk before, I was unprepared for this issue…
Hi Anita,
Congrats on finishing your project! I’m sorry to hear that it came out larger than expected though. Are you using Cattail Silk for this? If so, then I’d recommend machine washing and drying the shirt! We’ve found that this yarn shrinks a bit in the dryer, so that might help bring it down to the intended size. This may also help even out the stitches in the problem row!
As for joining a new skein of yarn, we generally recommend leaving the ends of the yarn loose, and then weaving them in after you’ve finished the project. We have a great tutorial on this, right here, and it will work for any type of yarn–silk included!
All the best,
Lili
I notice the “Lavender Daybreak” color is not available on the website. Is this color discontinued? Will you have more of this color available in the future?
Hi Vivian,
I’m so sorry to say that Lavender Daybreak has been discontinued, and we do not have any current plans to bring it back. We’re so sorry about that! I believe Pale Wisteria is the closest match out of our current color offerings.
All the best,
Lili