Drawstring Camisole In Picnic Cotton
With sand between your toes and salt in your hair, duck under the shade of your beach umbrella and cast on for this summer’s it-knit, our lovely Drawstring Camisole!
You begin at the neckline with a provisional cast on and the drawstring casing (no need to feel at sea, our Provisional Cast-On Tutorial walks you through the steps!). Next, you work some simple increases for the yoke, do it all again, then join the two pieces in the round, and it’s smooth-sailing-stockinette all the way to the bottom hem.
This camisole is simply stunning in our new Picnic Cotton, a 100% Peruvian Pima cotton. This fingering-weight yarn is wonderfully soft with a two-color structure that knits into a lovely speckly fabric, like light coming through the dune grass or sun bouncing off the waves.
We knit our Drawstring Camisole in tart and juicy Key Lime, just one of Picnic Cotton’s twelve sun-kissed colors… Pick the one that says summer to you, and dive right in!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Kristina McGowan. Click here to see even more of Kristina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoDrawstringCamisole, and #PurlSohoPicnicCotton. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 5 (5, 6, 7) (7, 8, 9, 9) skeins of Purl Soho’s Picnic Cotton, 100% Peruvian Pima Cotton. Each skein is 164 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 730 (820, 915, 1020) (1120, 1225, 1355, 1475) yards required. We used the color Key Lime.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 24- or 32-inch circular needles, depending on size you are making
- Spare US 4 or smaller, 24- or 32-inch circular needles, for Provisional Cast On
- A crochet hook and several yards of fingering weight scrap yarn, for Bottom Hems
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A stitch marker
GAUGE
28 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
33¼ (37¼, 41¼, 45¼) (49¼, 53¼, 57¼, 61¼)
To fit actual chest circumference of 29¼–32¼ (33¼–36¼, 37¼–40¼, 41¼–44¼) (45¼–48¼, 49¼–52¼, 53¼–56¼, 57¼–60¼) inches, with 1–4 inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 33¼ (37¼, 41¼, 45¼) (49¼, 53¼, 57¼, 61¼) inches
- Finished Length from Top of Yoke to Bottom Edge: 20¼ (20¾, 21, 21¼) (21½, 21¾, 22¼, 22¾) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 10¾ (10¾, 11, 11) (11, 11, 11¼, 11½) inches
SAMPLE: The camisole pictured here is size 37¼, worn with 3 inches of ease.
NOTES
CONSTRUCTION
You will work Front and Back Yokes separately from top down, starting with a Provisional Cast On and Drawstring Casing, then increasing for Yoke shaping. You will join Front and Back to work Body in the round down to Bottom Hem. Finally, you will make a Drawstring and pull it through the Casings.
MAKE 1 BACKWARDS LOOP
NOTE: For more help with this technique, please visit our Make 1 Backwards Loop Tutorial.
Create a loop with working yarn so that the tail end lies over working end. Insert right needle into loop from front to back. Pull yarn to tighten loop on right needle. [1 stitch increased]
PATTERN
FRONT
FRONT DRAWSTRING CASING
NOTE: For some extra help casting on, visit our Provisional Cast On: a One-Step Method Tutorial.
With crochet hook and scrap yarn, use a Provisional Cast On to cast 50 (52, 54, 58) (60, 62, 64, 64) stitches onto main circular needles. Do not join to work in the round.
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Rows 3–10: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 four more times, until piece measures about 1¼ inches.
With right side facing you, carefully remove scrap yarn from Provisional Cast On, slipping the 50 (52, 54, 58) (60, 62, 64, 64) stitches onto spare needles as you go.
NOTE: For help with the next step, please visit our Knit Hem Tutorial and scroll down to the Start With A Provisional Cast On section.
Fold piece with wrong sides together and needles parallel, then with working needles in front and spare needles in back…
Row 11 (right side): *Knit first stitch from working needles together with first stitch from spare needles, repeat from * to end of row.
SHAPE FRONT YOKE
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Increase Row (right side): K2, make 1 left (m1L), knit to last 2 stitches, make 1 right (m1R), k2. [2 stitches increased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, knitting right-side rows and purling wrong-side rows, repeat Increase Row every 4th row 2 (0, 0, 0) (0, 0, 0, 0) more times, then every right-side row 30 (34, 28, 25) (21, 17, 13, 8) times. [116 (122, 112, 110) (104, 98, 92, 82) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
SIZES 37¼, 41¼, 45¼, 49¼, 53¼, 57¼, AND 61¼ INCHES ONLY
Increase Row (right side): K2, make 1 backwards loop (see Notes), k1, yarn over (yo), knit to last 3 stitches, yo, k1, make 1 backwards loop, k2. [4 stitches increased]
Next Row (wrong side): P4, p1 through the back loop (tbl), purl to last 5 stitches, p1 tbl, p4.
Repeat last two rows – (1, 7, 11) (16, 21, 26, 32) more time(s). [– (130, 144, 158) (172, 186, 200, 214) stitches]
ALL SIZES
Cut yarn and place stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.
BACK
BACK LEFT DRAWSTRING CASING
With scrap yarn and crochet hook, use a Provisional Cast On to cast 25 (26, 27, 29) (30, 31, 32, 32) stitches onto main circular needles and work as for Front Drawstring Casing.
Cut yarn and place stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.
BACK RIGHT DRAWSTRING CASING
Work as for Back Left Drawstring Casing, but do not cut yarn and leave stitches on needles.
JOIN BACK DRAWSTRING CASINGS
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl 25 (26, 27, 29) (30, 31, 32, 32) Back Right Drawstring Casing stitches; with wrong side facing you, slip 25 (26, 27, 29) (30, 31, 32, 32) on-hold Back Left Drawstring Casing stitches onto left needle and purl those stitches. [50 (52, 54, 58) (60, 62, 64, 64) total stitches]
SHAPE BACK YOKE
Increase Row (right side): K2, m1L, knit to last 2 stitches, m1R, k2. [2 stitches increased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Increase Row every 4th row 2 (0, 0, 0) (0, 0, 0, 0) more times, then every right-side row 30 (34, 28, 25) (21, 17, 13, 8) times. [116 (122, 112, 110) (104, 98, 92, 82) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
SIZES 37¼, 41¼, 45¼, 49¼, 53¼, 57¼, AND 61¼ INCHES ONLY
Increase Row (right side): K2, make 1 backwards loop, k1, yo, knit to last 3 stitches, yo, k1, make 1 backwards loop, k2. [4 stitches increased]
Next Row (wrong side): P4, p1 tbl, purl to last 5 stitches, p1 tbl, p4.
Repeat last two rows – (1, 7, 11) (16, 21, 26, 32) more time(s). [– 130, 144, 158) (172, 186, 200, 214) stitches]
ALL SIZES
Do not cut yarn.
JOIN FRONT + BACK
Joining Round (right side): Knit 116 (130, 144, 158) (172, 186, 200, 214) Back stitches; with right side facing you, slip 116 (130, 144, 158) (172, 186, 200, 214) on-hold Front stitches onto left needle and knit those stitches, place marker and join for working in the round. [232 (260, 288, 316) (344, 372, 400, 428) total stitches]
BODY
NOTE: Before you get to the end of this section, consider adding a lifeline to aid you in the following section. For help, please visit our Cording Stitch Tutorial and scroll down to the Adding A Lifeline section. In this case, you would add the lifeline right before you knit the last 10 rounds.
Continuing in the round, knit every round until piece measures 11¼ (11¼, 11½, 11½) (11½, 11½, 11¾, 12) inches from Joining Round, or to about ½ inch longer than desired finished length.
Cut yarn, leaving a two-yard tail.
HEM BOTTOM EDGE
NOTE: For help with the Kitchener Stitch used in this section, please visit our Kitchener Stitch Tutorial.
With wrong side facing you, locate the stitch 10 rounds below the next stitch on your needles. Using spare needles, carefully pick up that stitch, making sure its right leg is in front, then pick up each subsequent stitch in that same round. [232 (260, 288, 316) (344, 372, 400, 428) stitches on each spare and main needles]
Fold Bottom Edge so wrong sides are together and needles are parallel, spare needles in back and working needles in front. Holding needles parallel, thread tail onto a tapestry needle and use Kitchener Stitch to graft stitches together.
FINISHING
MAKE DRAWSTRING
Cast 280 (284, 288, 294) (298, 302, 308, 312) stitches onto main circular needles, using a basic Long-Tail Cast On (or another non-provisional method). Do not join to work in the round.
Row 1 (right side): *K2tog tbl, slip resulting stitch back to left needle, repeat from * to end of row.
Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.
Thread a Drawstring tail onto a tapestry needle, and beginning at center Back, thread Drawstring through one Back Drawstring Casing, through Front Drawstring Casing, and then through second Back Drawstring Casing.
Weave in Drawstring tails, and tie ends together at center Back.
WEAVE + BLOCK
Weave in remaining ends and gently wet block.
What a cute top! By any chance would there be directions for a little girl top like this sizes for 5 and 6 year olds
Hi Anne!
Thank you so much! We do not have a kids version of this pattern, but you can browse all of our kids knitting patterns here. We do have the Seashell Baby Shirt + Dress for baby sizes that has a similar design, and if you are open to a sewing pattern, we have the Summer Romper for Kids that has a similar tie shoulder design, too!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
I love this pattern, but I do not like to knit with cotton. Can you suggest another yarn?
Hi Marjorie,
Thanks for reaching out. Most of our fingering weight yarns would work great for this pattern! In particular, I would recommend Posy or Linen Quill.
As always, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
This is a delightful pattern! Could I make this in cattail silk?
Hi Damara,
Thanks for writing in. Cattail Silk would be perfect for this pattern! As always, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
Shape Front Row Section it says to repeat Increase Row every 4th row. Does this mean increase every 4th right side row?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out. The instructions in the SHAPE FRONT YOKE section mean to work the Increase Row every 4th row, consisting of both right and wrong side rows! Written out in full, the sequence would look like this:
1 (WS): purl
2 (RS): knit
3 (WS): purl
4 (RS): Increase Row
1 (WS): purl
2 (RS): knit
3 (WS): purl
4 (RS): Increase Row
etc…
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
This helps! I was going to ask the same question. Thank you both!
Hello, I am having trouble understanding when I switch from the scrap yarn to the main yarn for the Front drawstring casing. Also the tutorial for the Knit hem does not include a video for the provisional cast on and it looks like they are using the same yarn. Please help! Looking forward to making this project,
Hi Corinne,
Thanks for reaching out. Once you’ve completed your provisional cast-on, you’ll begin knitting with the main yarn right away! If this is daunting, I’d highly recommend checking out our tutorial for this type of cast-on, so you can see the technique in action. You can find that right here: Provisional Cast On: a One-Step Method. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! I ended up figuring it out, I found a provisional cast on method that uses both strands at once which worked well.
Is there a tutorial, or at least a photo for Kitchener stitch on a HEM, as this pattern requires? I am very familiar with the Kitchener stitch, but I can’t seem to orient my needles to make this hem correctly. Whichever way I attempt this, the hem will be inside out.
Hi Ann,
Thank you for writing in! While we do not have a video for Kitchener Stitch in a hem specifically, we do have some photos in the original post for this pattern that might be helpful! You can find these photos under HEM BOTTOM EDGE here! To make sure your hem turns out as intended, make sure your wrong sides are held together, with the picked up stitches on the back needle and the active stitches on your front needle.
I hope this helps, and please feel free to reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com if you would like some extra help with this!
All the best,
Margaret
Thanks so much Margaret. That photo is exactly what I needed. My needle tips from the picked up row were on the outside of the piece.
You are very welcome, Ann! I’m glad that photo could help!
All the best,
Margaret
In shaping the front yoke, on the increase row using the backwards loop, the purl row instructions say P4, p1 through the back loop, but the back loop would be stitch 3. The fifth stitch is the yo.. Help?
Hi Gail,
Thanks for your question! The p1 through the back loop (tbl) is a different stitch than the backwards loop increase that you worked previously on this row and will actually be worked on the yarn over. When purling through the back loop of a yarn over stitch, with your yarn in front as if to purl, you can insert your needle from the back of your work between the back and the front legs of the stitch, then purl the back leg of the stitch.
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
All the best,
Carly
I’ve just started to knit this beautiful camisole, and have a question about the yarn over. Doesn’t it create a little hole, like when you knit lace?
You have 2 versions of this cami, and the 4 stitches increases are different between the two. How does the different look when knitted?
Hello!
Thanks for reaching out to us with your questions!
In this project, the yarn overs will always be knit through the back loop, closing up the eyelet hole that the yarn over creates. This type of increased stitch doesn’t lean left or right the same way a M1R or M1L increase does, instead it creates a flat stitch that doesn’t lean to either side.
The Make 1 Backwards Loop in our recent update of this pattern is a cast-on stitch, and it’s used to give structure and neaten the edges for the neck shaping. These changes were mostly for design reasons, but we also rewrote certain areas to be more concise! The finished garments will be the same construction, there is just the variation in the m1bl stitch.
Please feel free to send any other questions our way, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Carly
Hi! I am new here and I love this pattern. I would love to make this for a friend, I guess I am fairly a novice knitter, hats and scarves, but can follow a pattern with patience. 😉
My question is regarding the sizing, as in I don’t understand the sizes LOL. She is fairly petit and likely a size 6. What size should I follow? I want this to be a surprise
Thank you, I’ve been getting your emails for awhile now, love it all
Hi Dianne,
Thanks for reaching out to us with your questions! I’d be happy to help you with the sizing of your project.
The sizing options offered in our patterns are based on the chest circumference of the camisole, so it will be difficult to select a size without that number. If you’re worried that asking for your friend’s measurement will ruin the surprise, I’d recommend sneaking a measurement of the chest circumference on one of your friend’s shirts that would fit with a similar amount of positive ease. This top was designed to be worn with 1″-4″ of positive ease, so the size you select should be 1″-4″ larger than your friend’s actual measurement. Our tutorial, Understanding Ease and Selecting Your Size, might be helpful for this!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi there,
I am knitting this for my daughter who would like it to be more cropped. The measurement I’m trying to achieve is approx. 8” from underarm to the bottom of the camisole. What adjustments should I make to the pattern?
Thank you.
Hi Cara-Anne,
Thanks for reaching out. Fortunately, that’s a very simple modification! All you’ll need to do is continue knitting the body in stockinette until it reaches the desired length. Your daughter can even try on the camisole as you’re knitting and let you know when it gets to the length she wants. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for the help on the length. Another question, if I’m using the suggested cotton yarn, will a Russian join work to avoid weaving? What do you suggest for a clean join, usually I like wet splice.
Thank you!
Hi Cara-Anne!
Wet splicing and Russian joins tend to work best with high ply or wool yarns, and since Picnic Cotton has a unique ply structure of cotton fibers, we suggest joining a new ball of yarn as normal, and weaving in your ends after to close the small gap. This is still undetectable for a clean join and should work just as well!
All the best,
Margaret
I am knitting the back of the camisole similar to the front of the camisole. As I look ahead to see what I will do next,I am confused by the next set of instructions.
What do they mean by Back left and Right drawstring casings? For what and where are these casings to be used? I have knitted casings for the front and back of the camisole already.
I have knitted several patterns from Purl SOHO, but none have challenged me as this one.
Hi Jule,
I’m sorry to hear that this pattern has been such a challenge! Hopefully my advice can help make this section na bit easier though. The Back Left and Back Right casings are used in the same way as the Front casing is used–to provide a channel for the drawstring to be pulled through! The reason you’ll need to knit a separate Left and Right casing for the Back is because the drawstring is meant to be tied together at the center back, so it will need to exit the casing at that point. For a visual of this, I’d recommend taking a look at the third and fourth photos on this page. They both show the Back casings with the drawstring going through them!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, Lili,
Now I understand.
I would like to knit this camisole but in Field Linen, i. Size 41 &1/4. Do you think this yarn could be adapted?
What do you recommend for needle size, number of skeins, and mostly for how to make adjustments to the pattern if the gauge is different?
Thank you so much for your help !
Looking forward to knitting this project !
Hi Annabelle,
Thanks for reaching out. Since Field Linen is another fingering weight yarn, you can absolutely use it for this pattern without any modifications! You should be able to get gauge, so I’d recommend knitting up a gauge swatch before beginning. You may just need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge! For size 41 1/4, you would need 4 skeins of Field Linen. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I’d like to make this camisole in a cropped fitted shape for my daughter. Do you have any suggestions on how to adapt the pattern? I tried just knitting it shorter and it was more like a triangle 🙂
Appreciate your help.
Cara
Hi Cara,
Thanks for reaching out. To make a fitted shape, you can add some decreases as you work through the BODY section! I’d recommend working two symmetrical decreases on either side of the body every few rows, until it’s the length you’re aiming for. That way, it will have a tapered waist instead of looking like a triangle!
All the best,
Lili
I have several skeins of Cotton Pure in my stash and was thinking of using them for this pattern. But I see that the pattern is calling for a fingering weight, not a sport weight. Do you think I could use the Cotton Pure? And if so, what advice can you give me on needle size and gauge.
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing in! You could definitely use Cotton Pure for this pattern, and I’d recommend choosing another size to make so that the difference in gauge balances out.
Here’s how to figure out which size to make: First, make a gauge swatch in pattern with your intended yarn and needles (we recommend sizes US 3 – 5 for Cotton Pure). Once you know how many stitches you’re getting per inch, multiply that number by the chest circumference measurement for your original size. Then, compare the resulting number to the stitch counts around the body of each size ([232 (260, 288, 316) (344, 372, 400, 428) total stitches]). The size that comes closest is the one you should make!
I hope this helps, but please let me know if you have any other questions, or if you’d like help with any calculations.
All the best,
Lili
I am thinking of making this pattern in a tunic length to wear with leggings. Also thought about adding a drawstring waist. What suggestions can you give me to make these changes?
Thanks for your help.
Hi Pat,
That’s a great idea! The main thing you’ll need to do is just keep knitting the body of the camisole until it’s as long as you’d like. Since it’s knit top-down, you can easily try it on as you go to determine your preferred length!
For a drawstring waist, you could do something similar to how we created the strap channel in the Crossbody Pocket Bag. You’d just need to leave two holes where you want the drawstring to go through! Then, you can knit an i-cord and draw it through the channel. Alternatively, you could just work a few yarn overs at the waist level and weave the i-cord through those!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for the help, Lili. Love the yarns and the fabulous patterns!
Pat
i am à left handed (mirrored) knitter. can you tell me if i should do a different version of make 1 backwards loop, as i want to make sure that the stitches are leaning in the correct direction.
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing in. I believe you can knit those stitches as is! I have not noticed them ever leaning one way or the other so you shouldn’t have an issue with this increase technique. If you want to be absolutely sure, I would suggest knitting a small swatch and seeing how you like the way the stitches sit in your fabric! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I am knitting the Drawstring Camisole and am confused by the directions for the increase row when shaping the front yoke. Pattern says to repeat the increase row every 4th row 2,(0,0,0)….more times, then every right-said row 30(34,28,25)…..times. Then it shows I should have 122 stitches when this section is completed. I understand the increase every 4th row, but not how I get to 122 stitches if I only repeat the right-side row 34 times.
Hi Betty,
Thank you for writing in! If you are making the size 2, you will begin with 52 sts. Once you get to the SHAPE FRONT YOKE section, you will begin by working increase row 1 on the right side only. This leaves you with 54 sts after completing this row. Next you will be working the increase row only on the right side 34 times as you increase 2 stitches each time. So in total you will increase 34 times in this set of instructions which means you will be adding 70 stitches after your increases are complete. 70 increase sts plus your initial 52 sts gets you 122 sts.
I hope this helps but if you have any other questions please let me know!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thanks for getting back to me. So for size 2 I would do the increase row for every right side row I knit rather than increase only in every 4th roll. Is that correct?
Hi Betty, you will want to completely skip that instruction unless you are making the size 1. When you see instructions that have a ‘0’ for your size, that means you can skip over that portion. So here it says ‘repeat Increase Row every 4th row 2 (0, 0, 0) (0, 0, 0, 0)’ meaning only the first size needs to work the increases here.