Striped Triangle Garter Wrap
Good just got better! We dipped Good Wool‘s how-the-sheep-grew-them shades into a vat of rainbow and created a cosmos of color, deep in subtlety and rich in zest.
From the verdant glow of Tree Frog to the foggy softness of Pink Dawn, we feel like painting our whole world in Good Wool‘s new colors, and our Striped Triangle Garter Wrap proves the perfect canvas!
A combo of three gorgeous colors, plus single row striping, create a reverberant flow from point to face-framing edge, while the generously sized triangle is big enough for some drama and cozy enough to replace a coat in the fall or face a storm in the winter.
Still the same beautiful 100% Andean highland wool at the same reasonable price, dyed Good Wool may be our new old favorite! We couldn’t help playing and put together nine palettes of Striped Triangle Garter Wrap Bundles. Pick the one that makes you feel good!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed by Purl Soho founder and co-owner, Joelle Hoverson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoStripedTriangleGarterWrap and #PurlSohoGoodWool. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 4 skeins of Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% Andean highland wool yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is 383 yards/ 100 grams.
- Color A: 2 skeins; approximately 766 yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 383 yards required
- Color C: 1 skein; approximately 383 yards required
NOTE: You’ll use nearly full skeins of all three colors. To avoid running short, please double check your gauge, reuse your swatch yarn if necessary, and be conservative with tails!
You’ll also need…
- US 6 (4 mm), 24- and 40-inch circular needles (NOTE: You can use just the 40-inch needles, but they may be a bit unruly at the beginning of the project when you’re working only a few stitches!)
Our Striped Triangle Garter Wrap Bundle includes all the Good Wool you’ll need in nine pretty palettes (we used Moorland, Dogwood, and Huckleberry for our samples)…
Dogwood
Color A: Pink Dawn; Color B: Winter Grass; Color C: Tree Frog
Moorland
Color A: Wild Heath; Color B: Blue Moon; Color C: Apple Cider
Huckleberry
Color A: Seaside Blue; Color B: Purple Pansy; Color C: Violet Night
Coast
Color A: Teal Twilight; Color B: Periwinkle Gray; Color C: Freshwater Blue
Garden Snail
Color A: Periwinkle Gray; Color B: Wild Heath; Color C: Blue Moon
Canopy
Color A: Coastline Gray; Color B: Fern Green; Color C: Dark Spruce
Moss
Color A: Driftwood Gray; Color B: Tree Frog; Color C: Fern Green
Honey
Color A: Heirloom White; Color B: Hay Field; Color C: Pink Dawn
Farmhouse
Color A: Driftwood Gray; Color B: Heirloom White; Color C: Barn Door
GAUGE
22 stitches and 44 rows (22 ridges) = 4 inches in garter stitch
SIZE
Finished Length of Wingspan: 73¼ inches
Finished Length of Each Short Side: 52 inches
Finished Length from Cast-On Point to Middle of Bind-Off Edge: 36¾ inches
NOTES
Slip Stitches
Slip all stitches purlwise with yarn in front unless otherwise specified.
Carry Yarn Up Selvage
Do not cut the yarn between stripes in color changing sections. Instead, at the beginning of each wrong-side row, pick up the working yarn from behind the resting yarn so the resting yarn gets carried up the side of the work as you go.
PATTERN
Section 1
With Color A and using a cast on of your choice, cast 2 stitches onto shorter circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1: K1, knit into front and back (kfb). [3 stitches]
Row 2: Slip 1 (see Notes), kfb, k1. [4 stitches]
Row 3: Slip 1, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Repeat Row 3 until piece measures approximately 26 inches along selvage edge from cast-on point.
Do not cut Color A.
Section 2
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back (wyib), join Color B and knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1, then with Color B, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. Mark this side of the piece with a removeable marker or piece of scrap yarn to indicate the right side. [1 stitch increased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, then with Color A and carrying Color B up selvage (see Notes), knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 3: Slip 1, then with Color A, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 4: Slip 1, then with Color B and carrying Color A up selvage, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 5: Slip 1, then with Color B, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Switching to longer circular needles when necessary, repeat Rows 2–5 until piece measures 44½ inches along selvage edge from cast-on point, or if using Good Wool, until approximately 30 yards of Color B remain, ending with Row 5.
Cut Color A.
Section 3
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise wyib, join Color C and knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1, then with Color C, slip 1, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, then with Color B and carrying Color C up selvage, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 3: Slip 1, then with Color B, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 4: Slip 1, then with Color C and carrying Color B up selvage, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 5: Slip 1, then with Color C, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Repeat Rows 2–5 until piece measures 45½ inches along selvage edge from cast-on point, or if using Good Wool, until you have used all of Color B, ending with Row 2.
Cut Color B.
Section 4
Row 1 (right side): Continuing with Color C, slip 1, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]
Repeat Row 1 until piece measures 52 inches along selvage edge from cast-on point, or, if using Good Wool, until approximately 10 yards of yarn remain, ending with a wrong side row.
Bind off loosely, going up a needle size if needed to ensure a nice, elastic edge.
Weave in ends, gently wet block, and get cozy!
LEARN ABOUT GOOD WOOL + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Good Wool adds loads of character, beauty, and integrity to this knit! A sport-weight yarn whose lofty 2-ply spin can also bloom into a light worsted/ DK-weight yarn, Good Wool is made from 100% Andean highland wool, a toothy fiber with a deeply natural appeal. This yarn has a spectacular palette of complex and subtly varied colors, including 5 undyed shades. Very close to the hearts of our customers, Good Wool is a true knitter’s yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Good Wool knitting patterns and cast on!
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- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
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If I want to make the striped triangle garter wrap in one solid color, how many skeins would I need?
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out! If you want to make this in a solid color you will simply follow our original Triangle Garter Wrap pattern! For that, you will need 4 skeins of Good Wool
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi I am getting 1 extra skein of each color in the Huckleberry bundle so that I can be sure not to run short, and also to make some mitts, etc. Please match the dye lots from the separate skeins to the bundle. Thank you
Hi Hazel,
Thanks for reaching out! For any order-related questions or requests, please email our customer service team directly at [email protected]
Warmly,
Gianna
As per the instructions, in Section 1 I am slipping the first stitch pw wyif unless otherwise noted. In Section 2 in the set- up row you slip the first stitch pw wyib. Are all subsequent slip stitches done wyib? I am assuming yes as nothing is specified or do you revert to slipping the first stitch wyif? I feel this should be obvious to me but the “the devil is in the details.” Thank you.
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for writing in! All stitches that do not have “wyib” written directly after them will be slipped wyif, so you will revert back to wyif after the Set-Up Row in Section 2. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili! After sending in my question I thought about the pattern and a light bulb belatedly turned on and I realized what to do. Lesson learned – think about your knitting and what is unfolding, don’t just go into auto-mode.
I am in love with the Huckleberry colorway, but the Seaside Blue – and therefore the bundle – is out of stock. I’m considering using Purple Pansy or Violet Night in place of the Seaside Blue (2 skeins), and either Wild Heath or Periwinkle Grey as the “light” yarn in the stripes/shawl in place of Seaside Blue…. Neither would give the vibrancy of Seaside Blue, but I love both the Purple and Violet. (I’m also really fond of the Teal Twilight, although that doesn’t fit this color scheme.) Any suggestions? I’m hoping to purchase at least four skeins TODAY – Tuesday – to take advantage of the sale.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thank you for reaching out! My first suggestion is two skeins of Purple Pansy as the main color of the wrap, 1 skein of Periwinkle Gray for the contrasting stripes, and lastly 1 skein of Wild Heath as the third color for the upper part of the wrap. I think this would create a really vibrant palette of purple shades and make for a stunning wrap! Another option, if you’re a fan of a more high contrast look, is to use two skeins of Violet Night as the main color, one skein of Periwinkle Gray as the stripes, and one skein of Wild Heath as the third color. This would make the stripes pop out more and the wrap would be more predominantly a deep, rich purple.
I hope this was helpful! Thanks again for contacting us!
All the best,
Cat
Is there a video for the striped triangle garter wrap
Hi Jo,
Thanks for reaching out. While we do not have a tutorial video for this entire pattern, you may find some of our other tutorials helpful for the techniques used in this pattern! In particular, you may want to check out Long Tail Cast On and Knit Front and Back (kfb). Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I love the colors used in the triangle scarf (blues and purples) but I don’t want to make a triangles scarf. Could I use this yarn and these colors to make a wrap like your elementary one? If so how many skeins?
Thank you
Caroline Tierney
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely use Good Wool to make the Elementary Wrap! If you’re thinking of following the pattern of the Elementary Wrap exactly (as in using stockinette stitch), then you would need 3 skeins of Good Wool to complete it. However, if you want to use garter stitch, like we do in the Striped Triangle Garter Wrap, then you would need a bit more yarn, probably around 5 skeins. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I have 4 skeins of Good Wool but like the suggestion of making the Elementary Wrap rather than in the StripedTriangle Garter Wrap . How many stitches do you recommend casting on.
Thank you.
Hi Dianne,
Thanks for writing in! Luckily we have several versions of the Elementary Wraps at different gauges! Our Elementary Wrap In Season Alpaca has a similar gauge to Good Wool, so you should be able to follow this version of the Elementary wrap as written! As always, I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Brilliant idea! Thank you! I have the pattern and the yarn for the Elementary Wrap in Season Alpaca — I like oblong wraps/scarves so much better than triangles (while they look pretty and show off patterns elegantly, they are not practical and do not stay in place). Since I have the lovely blue season alpaca, I am adding the two skeins of purples in the Good Wool, and will combine the two patterns, probably using a size 6 needle in the garter stitch (which will lay flatter than stockinette for the shawl). Thanks again for the great idea!
Hello! What level of skill is needed for this project? Could a beginner try it out? Thanks!
Hi Jill,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t rate the difficulty of our patterns because we want people to feel free to try things that are “too hard” for them; we want to encourage people to discover that learning new techniques enriches the process of making. We do try to describe the skills involved with a pattern so that customers know what they’re getting into, but ultimately, we hope that you will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge!
As for this pattern, you may want to check out some of our wonderful tutorials, such as the following: Long Tail Cast-On and Knit Front and Back (kfb).
I hope this is useful, and please know that we are always happy to help if you run into any trouble along the way!
All the best,
Lili
I am not yet far enough along in this project to determine dimensions, but could you please check the pattern instructions for selvage lengths? The instructions say section 1 should measure 26 inches, then 44.5 inches through section 2, then 45.5 inches through section 3 and 52 inches to the end. It seems the figure for the end of section 2 must be incorrect.
Thank you!
Hi Connie,
Thanks for your question! In section 2, the 44.5″ is measured from the cast-on point so you would just be increasing a total of 18.5″ for this section, alternating between Color A and B. Then, you’d increase by 1 inch in section 3 so the sides measure 45.5″ and lastly 6.5 for section 4 until you reach 52″ along the selvedge edge from the cast-on point. Sections 1 and 2 make up the majority of the wrap, so I believe these proportions are correct!
I hope this was helpful! Please feel free to reach out if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Cat
Can you please suggest a color or two colors that would work well with Hickory Nut? I have some of that left over from a solid garter scarf and would like to use it in a striped one. Thank you!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in. I really love pinks or light blues with brown, so I think that Blue Moon and Wild Heath would look wonderful with Hickory Nut! I hope this gives you inspiration for your scarf project.
All the best,
Lili
I am finding as I move along with this wrap the places that I kfb leaves a stitch that looks noticeably different than the rest of the plain knit stitches in the row. Is there some way to correct this? Thanks.
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out. The kfb increase naturally creates a stitch that looks slightly different from the surrounding stitches, but since you don’t like how that looks, then I’d suggest using make-1 increases instead! The m1L and m1R stitches definitely blend in more. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, Thank you for this pattern it is lovely. I am making this for a woman who is just 5 feet tall. So I was thinking that maybe I should make it somewhat shorter, I believe that the width would be fine. Do you suggest to shorten each section or just the first two sections? I am not good at math, as is obvious.
Donna
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out. I would actually recommend just shortening Section 1, since this section takes up the bulk of the length of the wrap! But if you still want to shorten it more, then you could absolutely shorted Section 2 in addition to Section 1. However, if you do shorten any of the sections, the width will automatically be smaller as well. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m making this for myself, and I’m just 5 feet tall. Any suggestions on how much to shorten the first section?
Hi Janine,
Thanks for reaching out. As written, you would knit Section A until it measures 26 inches up the selvedge. I think you could shorten this by up to 10 or so inches, which will take about 7 inches off of the total height of the wrap! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Thanks, Lili. I appreciate how quickly you responded. Football games are on, so it’s time to start knitting!
Janine
Hello I am just starting Section 2 and have joined colour B. I am then knitting the setup row in ColourB which leaves Colour A at the beginning of the row. But should I be carrying it? The instructions suggest Row 1 is in Colour A which I have left behind when I knitted the Setup Row in Colour B. Or have I misread the instructions?
Thanks for helping me
Suzanne
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for writing in! For section 2, you will work the setup row and then the first row in Color B taking you across the work and then back to where Color A is waiting. You should also be carrying the yarn up the selvage throughout the wrap!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Hi Gianna:
This is the part where I am too! What does it mean to carry the yarn up the selvage throughout the wrap? Is there a video to demonstrate this. Also, when you connect Color B, you knit one row with Color B, and then knit the next row as well with Color B? Then knit two rows with Color A? I am a bit confused. Thank you!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t have a tutorial for this technique, but it is actually quite simple! To carry the yarn up, at the beginning of each wrong-side row, pick up the working yarn from behind the resting yarn so the resting yarn gets carried up the side of the work as you go.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
I am two inches into the second color and it looks great but I don’t think. Am carrying up the yarn properly as I am not getting the same edge with the first stitch purl wise slip. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Nina,
I’m sorry to hear that your selvedge isn’t turning out as expected! Would you be able to send a photo of your work to [email protected]? That way, we’ll be able to envision what’s going on and give specific advice!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I appear to be having the same difficulty as Nina in the post above. I, too, am about two inches into the second color and, while it looks fine, the selvedge edge appears a bit different than the rest and is less stretchy. I am being careful to carry the working yarn up behind the resting yarn, but which yarn is in front when I slip the first stitch? The color I just finished, or the color I’m now starting? Are they both in front? I’m confused. Thanks for your help!
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you’re doing everything correctly, but that’s a great observation. The edge that you carry the yarns up on will naturally be a bit less stretchy than the other side. That’s because the other edge is comprised only of knit stitches, which have more potential to stretch due to their looped structure. When you factor in the yarn that gets carried up on the other side though, these strands are not loops, they’re straight, so they inherently have less ability to stretch than the looped yarn does. (For example, think of the difference in stretch between knit fabric and woven fabric–woven fabric isn’t stretchy since the threads all run straight!) This edge will also look a bit thicker than the other, since the yarn that’s carried up takes up space at the edge.
In answer to your other question, both yarns are in front on Rows 2 and 4 of SECTION 2! Just make sure that you bring the color you will begin working with on that row all the way around the previous color so that it traps the previous color at the selvedge.
Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
This is great information. Thank you!
Checking again on restock of Huckleberry yarn kit for Striped Triangle Garter Wrap. When we last communicated you thought it might be available end of Jan of beginning of Feb? Do you think that will happen?
Thanks,
Cindy Sweigart
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for checking in. I’m happy to report that we just got all colors of Good Wool back in stock just a few days ago! So the bundles are also back in stock now.
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I’m wondering if you have a merino wool that might work for this pattern. I’m worried this wool may be itchy. Thanks so much,
Hi LLC,
Thanks for writing in! One of our newer yarns, Wigeon, is 100% fine Falkland merino wool, which would work wonderfully with this pattern. Another great option would be our super soft Season Alpaca, which is 100% super baby alpaca! Either would be lovely, but I do suggest working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m looking to make one using pink can you suggest something different other than what is shown?
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! There are a few different ways you could go using the pink shade, the first option I would suggest is Color A: Pink Dawn; Color B: Wild Heath; Color C: Purple Pansy. Another option would be Color A: Pink Dawn; Color B: Blue Moon; Color C: Coastline Gray. Lastly, you could go very neutral and use Color A: Pink Dawn; Color B: Winter Grass; Color C: Heirloom White (or Driftwood Gray).
I hope this helps and please let me know which combo you end up going with!
Gianna
Am I correct, that this shawl can be made bigger by just continuing to increase until you like the size? Of course, more yarn would be needed, I understand.
Thank you!
Hi Rizel,
Thanks for reaching out. You’re absolutely correct! You can just keep working increase rows until the wrap is as large as you’d like.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, Lili
I am making the triangle garter wrap. I love the yarn that I bought from you! I am new to all this…The directions say that the first row is 3 stitches. How long would the long tail cast on be? Is it 9 inches?
Hi Laila!
Thank you so much for your question! The initial stitches of the Striped Triangle Garter Wrap are so few that a 9” tail would be more than enough for the long tail cast on method.
Hope this helps!
Kindly,
Margaret
I am not a fan of highland wool. Do you have the same colorways available in a similar weight fiber like merino, merino/silk, etc.
Hi Leigh,
Thanks for writing in! Although it’s a bit heavier, Cashmere Merino Bloom would be a beautiful option! You could also use Season Alpaca or Wigeon!
As always, I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
When working Section 1 I left the slip stitch loose at each edge so as to make an eyelet edging. Now I am in Section 2, and while I am leaving the slip stitch loose when changing colors, that edge is not the same — it is tighter, with no eyelet effect. Where did I go wrong?
Hi Josette,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that it’s a little hard for us to visualize how you’re modifying this pattern! Would you be able to send a photo of your work to [email protected]? That way, we’ll be able to see exactly what’s going on in your project and can give more specific advice!
All the best,
Lili
I am just getting started on this project and am wondering about the guage for the Good Wool yarn. I see it says 22-25 stitches = 4″, but what about the number of rows? I am knitting 22 stitches = 4″, but my 25 rows is only 2.75″. Please advise as I don’t want to run out of yarn! Thanks.
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you’re looking at the approximate gauge range we give for Good Wool, rather than the gauge for this pattern in particular! The gauge for this pattern is 22 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Can I use either size 5 or size 7 needles for this pattern?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out. I would recommend using whichever needles you need to achieve the gauge for this pattern! You can figure that out by knitting a swatch in garter stitch. If this is daunting, I’d recommend checking out a tutorial called All About Gauge, which covers some incredibly helpful information. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I bought this kit in the Huckleberry colorway not really wanting to knit the Andean Highland Wool (Good Wool) since my past experience with highland wool (not from Purl Soho) was not favorable. I wanted to substitute the Merino Bloom but it was just too expensive. I got my kit and I must say I’m very pleased with the Good Wool. It’s much softer than I thought and knits up nice and even in the garter stitch pattern of this wrap. This pattern is very simple and consitutes “brain dead” knitting for me while I tackle other issues in my life, but the colors are making it very enjoyable. I might be inclined to knit it again in a different colorway. Very good kit!
Can you please clarify how to knit increases using the M1R and 1 left method ( instead of kfb)? Many thanks.
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out. We have some wonderful tutorials for each of those increase stitches! You can find them right here: Make 1 Right (m1R) + Make 1 Left (m1L), Knit Front and Back (kfb). Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Wouldn’t the carry up yarn be on the right side not the left?
Hi Virginia,
Thanks for reaching out. Because the yarn is carried up when the wrong side of the work is facing you, that edge is actually the left side! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I’d like to make this for someone who loves purples and rich saturated colors. I like the Moorland color way, but I wonder how it would look if I went darker.
What do you think of:
A) violet night
B) purple pansy
C) apple cider
Or
A) purple pansy
B) wild heath
C) apple cider?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Hanna,
Thanks for writing in. I love your first idea for a color palette! The Apple Cider will provide a lovely pop of color against the Violet Night. I think that the high contrast of the colors in that palette will work best, whereas the shades in the second palette you created are a little too close to each other (in my opinion). Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
In section 2, you say just below Row 5, that if you are using Good Wool, knit until approximately 30 yards of B remain. Do you recommend measuring off 30 yards and marking it with a knot before winding the wool into a ball? Is there any other way to do that?
Thanks,
Hillary
Hi Hillary,
Thanks for reaching out! If you want to be extremely precise for this section, I think that your method would work really well! You can measure out the 30 yards before winding your yarn, and mark this section with either a safety pin, or a loose knot of scrap yarn, being careful not to move it while winding the ball.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Why was it so easy to transition from the party of the first part 🙂 to the party of the second part 🙂 and now at the third section there is trouble? I have knitted along merrily and suddenly I am frogging? This cannot be. This pattern is soooo easy. Maybe I shouldn’t be watching Masterpiece mystery while I work.
Hi!
Thanks so much for your comment! We’re happy to hear you’ve been enjoying the pattern. Let us know if you’d like any assistance if you’re running into roadblocks! Feel free to email us at [email protected]. We’re always happy to help!
All the best,
Cat
I’m about half-way through color A, but looking ahead to the next steps… and I realize I have no way of telling which is the wrong side! When I go to add color B… does it really matter?
Thanks,
Miriam
Hi Miriam,
Thanks for reaching out. At this point, it doesn’t matter which side is the right side or the wrong side! You can choose one or the other, but once you’ve chosen, you will need to keep it consistent for the remainder of the pattern. A great trick to help remember which side is which is to place a removable stitch marker on the right side. Then you’ll know that you’re on the right side whenever you can see the stitch marker!
All the best,
Lili
I’m finally to section 3! Am I really slipping the first two stitches in Row 1? It says “Slip 1, then with Color C, slip 1, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1. [1 stitch increased]”
Thank you for this beautiful pattern!
Sally
Hi Sally!
Thank you for your question! Yes, you are correct, you will slip the first two stitches of Row 1, or in other words, slip the first stitch of each color in Row 1, to continue the smooth slipped selvedge. The second slipped stitch with Color C will be slipping one of the kfb stitches from the previous row, while also helping to lock in this new color.
I hope this helps you continue on with confidence!
Happy knitting,
Margaret
Thank you. I needed that same confirmation.
I freeze at work on a daily basis and want to knit a neutral shawl thinking this will add the extra warmth I’m craving (my boss runs the air in winter, burr). Would you mind offering 2 colorway suggestions? I had one idea: Red Prune, Hickory Nut, and Walking Stick. I also liked the Coastline Grey. HELP!
If you like my selection of three, what order would you suggest?
I’m grateful for your assistance…
Hi Beth,
Thanks for writing in! I love all 4 colors of Good Wool that you have your eye on! However, I feel like the three of them don’t have enough contrast in value, since they’re all pretty dark. For a color combination that will really show off all three colors you use in the wrap, I’d recommend something like these, that have a greater value contrast:
1. Red Prune, Walking Stick, and Winter Grass
2. Coastline Gray, Walking Stick, and Driftwood Gray
For the order, I’d say that depends on which color you want to be the “main color,” of the most visually apparent color in the wrap! Once you decide on that, then I’d recommend using it as Color A, since that color appears for the longest time as a solid color. Then, I’d recommend using your second favorite color as Color C, and finally using the remaining one as Color B, since Color B only appears as stripes between Colors A and C.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, your suggestions make sense. I’m terrible at deciding but I think I’m going to go with your first suggestion since love the red prune.
I have one more question. I’d like to eliminate the point. Do see any reason why I can use a beginning CO of 20? that will shorten the length of the shawl but won’t alter the width if I’m thinking correctly.
You’re very welcome, Beth, and you can absolutely begin with a cast-on of 20 stitches! You can still knit the wrap to its finished width, but you’re right, the finished wrap will be a bit shorter.
And I really love this idea–let us know how it turns out!
All the best,
Lili
I can’t wait for my yarn to come, and I’ll definitely let you know how it turns out.
Thank you again!!
I’m having trouble knowing how to measure the selvage on garter stitch, since it varies a lot depending on how much you stretch, or don’t stretch, the fabric. Is there a way to find out what the vertical distance (CO tip to the end of section A) should be? I see the finished wrap is 36.75 inches, and the gauge is 11 rows per inch, so how many rows makes a 26 inch selvage? I hope I’m being clear, it’s a confusing issue! Thanks for any help!
44 rows (22 ridges) = 4 inches in garter stitch
Hi Circe,
Thanks for reaching out! I always like to calculate the number of rows (or garter ridges) in cases like this, since it’s slightly more accurate than physically measuring the distance. However, it’s a bit more complicated in this pattern! You’re measuring the distance along the selvedge, which you can think of as the leg of the right triangle that is the full wrap. The rows/ridges, however, take place horizontally, so the length you can measure with those is the vertical line from the tip of the wrap to the live stitches, through the center of the fabric (not the selvedge). This divides the triangle into two smaller triangles! For these smaller triangles, the 26-inch selvedge becomes the hypotenuse, and the vertical distance of the rows/ridges is a leg. (I’m hoping this makes sense written out!)
So to calculate the distance of this vertical line of rows/ridges, you need to use the Pythagorean theorem to solve for the distance of the leg. I’ve done this for you already, and it comes to approximately 18.38 inches! Then, you can create a ratio with the number of rows/ridges in the gauge to solve for the number of rows/ridges in 18.38 inches. I’ve also done this calculation for you, and it comes to about 202 rows (101 ridges).
I hope this helps! It’s a lot of annoyingly confusing math, but this should make it easier to get an accurate sense of the length of the wrap!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much, Lili, you are an angel! How did you get the length of the other leg, though? We have C (hypotenuse) but neither A (altitude) or B (base)? I think you have to know 2 sides to figure out the third, don’t you? That’s where I got stuck.
Lili, if I wanted to rely on measuring the selvage edge length, I am interested in whether, or how much, the knitted piece should be stretched. It does have some give and I am not sure whether to stretch a little or not at all. Thank you.
Hi Anita,
We took all our measurements for this wrap without stretching the knit fabric at all! So I’d recommend not stretching your work when measuring it either, for the most accurate results. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Ah, Lili! I just realized that 26 inch selvedge is 1/2 the total selvedge length so I can just double (or halve) the given dimensions. And this is a wrap so lengths are “flexible” in the end. Thanks for taking the time to “do the math”!
Hi Circe,
I’m so glad that you found an easy way to visualize the pattern! If you want to know the details behind the math I did previously, it’s actually much easier to explain with diagrams than with words. If you’d like to see the diagrams I drew up to figure it out, just let me know, and I’ll send you an email with those attached!
All the best,
Lili
It might seem obvious but I think your instructions should include that the work is done by knitting back and forth. Then marking the right side makes more sense. I would have anyway, and since I am knitting this left handed it makes all the more sense. Everyone else’s right is my left lol.
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out! The best way to tell if a pattern is worked either flat or in the round is to look at the terminology used in the pattern. If the pattern says “Row 1, Row 2, etc.” then it’s worked flat since it’s worked in rows back and forth. But if it says “Round 1, Round 2, etc.” then it’s worked in the round! Because of that, most knitting patterns won’t explicitly mention if they’re knit flat or in the round, since its shown in the language of the instructions themselves. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I would like to make the wrap with two colors, not three with percentage of darker color being the same. Does that mean I would use 3 lighter skeins and one darker? thank you for your time.
Hi Lesya,
Thanks so much for your comment! Yes, exactly, to make this wrap in 2 colors in the way that you mentioned, you would need 3 skeins of the lighter color and 1 skein of the darker color. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
What would be the best way to make this shawl bigger?
Thanks in advance…….
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! This wrap is easily adjustable just by knitting for more rows. You’ll begin at the back point, and increase by one stitch on every row, so you can just keep going until it’s as large as you’d like!
All the best,
Lili
I want to make this for my mother but she is very petite (less than 5ft tall). What’s the best way to scale it down?
Thank you!
Hi Jo,
Thanks for reaching out. You can scale this pattern down by knitting fewer rows in each section! The wrap begins at the point and you’ll just knit along in rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row, so you can stop whenever it reaches your desired dimensions!
All the best,
Lili
Just finishing this wrap using a 4 stitch I-cord bind off with a size 8 needle. Looks lovely and provides some stability.
I would like to make this just as a neck scarf to go around my neck under my winter jacket instead of a large wrap. Can you tell me about how much yarn I would need and where I should stop and bind off for the neck scarf rather than a wrap? I think I would prefer this type of scarf rather than the long thin one I wear. I wear a 2x top if that helps you to gauge for size. I have a very arthritic neck and usually wear a scarf from Oct. to April.
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in, and that sounds like a wonderful way to adapt this pattern! Could you please give me a sense of the dimensions you’re imagining though? I’m afraid that I’m not familiar with this type of accessory, so I don’t want to interpret the sizing. Once you let me know the dimensions you have in mind though, I can absolutely give you an estimate for yardage!
All the best,
Lili
Would Good Wool combine well with Purl Soho Hedgerow for this pattern? I have 2.5 skeins of Hedgerow (Grey Ember) and am looking for some supplemental yarn to knit it up with. Alternatively, how much Hedgerow would I need in 3 colors to knit this pattern? Thank you.
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for reaching out! I actually wouldn’t suggest combining Good Wool and Hedgerow in one project, since the two yarns are very different thicknesses. Good Wool is a sportweight yarn so it’s a lot thinner than Yonder, which is a worsted weight.
This pattern would be lovely knit up all in Hedgerow though! I would recommend getting 3 skeins of Color A and 2 skeins each of Colors B and C in order to have enough yardage. Hope this helps you plan your project!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I happen to have two skeins of Fresh Loganberry Good Wool in my stash. What would you suggest for the other two colors for the wrap?
Thanks so much!
Hi Ellen,
What a fun question! I think Fresh Loganberry would look beautiful with Magnolia Pink and Winter grass. These should pair well together! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thank you Gavriella!
Sounds great. Can’t wait to get started on this.
I have just finished my wrap. I thought I would get to 400 stitches based on 22 stitches for 4 inches but I was running out of yarn so i cast off. The measurements are accurate though and I haven’t gently wet blocked yet. While it looks beautiful, I am having trouble wrapping it so it look good on me. I wouldn’t want it any longer but I might like it wider. Seems to look better on smaller people. I will keep practicing.
Hi! I feel like I should be able to figure this out, but somehow my brain is not working: I have 3 skeins of a lovely color A in Good Wool, and 1 skein of contrasting color B. Is there a way to adapt this pattern for just 2 colors, having a main solid color, a smaller section of stripes and ending with an edge in solid contrasting B? My guess is use up 2.5 skeins of color A, then start in with color B striping, following section 3 instructions, then when 1 have used up all of color A, I’m left to finish the edge in solid B which is section 4? Does this sound right to you? Thanks so much for your help!
Hi Kiran,
Thank you for writing in! That sounds like a wonderful idea! To use two colors, you will just want to alternate between colors by starting off with A since you have 3 skein and it uses the most amount of yarn in the pattern. You can then knit as far as you’d like and begin to alternate your stripes with color B which will make up the smallest amount of your wrap’s fabric. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi. I just started this triangle shawl with Good Wool (1st time using it – it feels so good!!). My question is where to measure the 26” of section 1. A triangle is being made with the point at the bottom – do I measure 26” alone one side edge? Or is the measurement taken from the 2 cast on stitches up the middle of the work to the stitches on the needle? Sorry to be dense if it’s clear to everyone! Thanks.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! This measurement is taken along the selvage edge, not up the middle!
All the best,
Lili
I would like to knit this with a chunky wool (~size 6 Eu needles). What yarn would yous suggest and in what quantities. Thank you,
Kendall Tersiguel
Hi Kendall,
Super Soft Merino would be a fun yarn to knit this pattern in! Let me know what you think of this yarn, and if you want to try it out, then I can figure out the approximate yardage for each color.
All the best,
Lili
Wonderful. How would this color commination work.
Color A: sapphire blue
Color B: teal river, heather
Colore: gray denim, heather
Thanks for your help.
Those colors look beautiful together! And I just did the calculations, and it looks like you’ll need 10 skeins of Super Soft Merino to make a shawl of this size. You could either split this up between the colors as 4 skeins of the MC and 3 of each CC or 6 of the MC and 2 of each CC. The sections of color will be placed slightly differently either way, but it’ll still look very much like the original design!
All the best,
Lili