Side Street Blanket
Our Side Street Blanket is like a beautiful bird’s-eye view of a city neighborhood, where breaks in the colored stripes read as side streets. The delightful spaces where a city hides its best kept secrets, it’s when you take the time to wander off the map a bit that you find the real hidden gems.
This project follows a road mapped out by our wonderful Library Blanket. Similarly, for the Side Street Blanket you knit alternating horizontal and vertical stripes, picking up stitches when you switch directions (no sewing here!). It’s quick on the needles in easy-peasy garter stitch, and those course changes keep the navigation interesting.
To find all these glorious marled colors, we used our Linen Quill, with its earthy texture and extensive palette of colors, along with our incredibly soft and gentle Line Weight. Together, they double not just the number of hues you create, but the depth and beauty of each color you knit.
Like rambling through a new city for the first time, our Side Street Blanket has surprises around every corner. Pick up exactly the Linen Quill and Line Weight you need with our Side Street Blanket Bundle, available for both crib- and throw-sized blankets!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho founder and co-owner, Joelle Hoverson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoSideStreetBlanket, #PurlSohoLineWeight and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
To knit the Crib size (above, left) or Throw size (above, right) you will need…
NOTE: For the Crib size, you bind off after the purple stripes and do not go on to knit the green and red ones.
- 7 (12) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 439 yards/ 100 grams.
- 2 (4) skeins of Wheat Flour; approximately 806 (1489) yards required
- 1 (1) skein of Pale Oats; approximately 120 (120) yards required
- 1 (1) skein of Eggshell Blue; approximately 97 (97) yards required
- 1 (1) skein of Green Turquoise; approximately 55 (67) yards required
- 1 (1) skein of Crocus Bud; approximately 248 (248) yards required
- 1 (1) skein of Peony Pink; approximately 77 (94) yards required
- – (1) skein of Clover Green; approximately – (42) yards required
- – (1) skein of Kiln Red; approximately – (78) yards required
- – (1) skein of Red Poppy; approximately – (189) yards required
- 7 (12) skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino wool. Each skein is of this fingering weight yarn 494 yards/ 100 grams.
- 2 (4) skeins of Heirloom White; approximately 988 (1890) yards required
- 1 (1) skein of Hydrangea Blossom; approximately 219 (219) yards required
- 1 (1) skein of Clear Sky; approximately 202 (244) yards required
- 1 (1) skein of True Turquoise; approximately 35 (53) yards required
- 1 (1) skein of Crocus Bud; approximately 197 (197) yards required
- 1 (1) skein of Lilac Fog; approximately 108 (108) yards required
- – (1) skein of Clover Green; approximately – (51) yards required
- – (1) skein of Kiln Red; approximately – (148) yards required
- – (1) skein of Autumn Oak; approximately – (169) yards required
NOTE: For the Crib size, we used 2 full skeins of Line Weight in Heirloom White. To make sure you don’t run short, work your gauge swatch in a Color Combo that doesn’t use Heirloom White, and be sparing with your ends. To be extra, extra safe, feel free to pick up an extra skein of this color. Wait to wind it into a ball so that, if you don’t end up using it, you can return unwound yarn for a refund within 30 days of purchase, or within 6 months, for store credit!
You will also need…
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 40-inch circular needles
- A free Side Street Blanket Template, available in Crib or Throw
GAUGE
20 stitches and 40 rows (20 garter ridges) = 4 inches in garter stitch, holding one strand of Line Weight and one strand of Linen Quill together
SIZES
Crib (Throw)
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 38 inches wide x 37 inches long (40 inches wide x 60 inches long)
Sample: The blanket pictured here is the Throw size.
NOTES
YARN DOUBLED
You will double the yarn throughout this pattern, pulling one strand of Linen Quill and one strand of Line Weight together.
CUTTING YARN
When you switch to a new color and the pattern says “cut yarn,” cut both strands of the colors you are dropping, unless the following color combination uses one of the same colors. In that case, you should just cut the one color you won’t be using.
COLOR COMBO LIST
NOTE: Combos N-V are used in the Throw size only.
A: Wheat Flour Linen Quill (LQ) + Heirloom White Line Weight (LW)
B: Green Turquoise LQ + True Turquoise LW
C: Green Turquoise LQ + Hydrangea Blossom LW
D: Eggshell Blue LQ + Hydrangea Blossom LW
E: Eggshell Blue LQ + Clear Sky LW
F: Pale Oats LQ + Clear Sky LW
G: Crocus Bud LQ + Hydrangea Blossom LW
H: Crocus Bud LQ + Crocus Bud LW
I: Crocus Bud LQ + Lilac Fog LW
J: Pale Oats LQ + Hydrangea Blossom LW
K: Peony Pink LQ + Hydrangea Blossom LW
L: Peony Pink LQ + Crocus Bud LW
M: Peony Pink LQ + Lilac Fog LW
N: Clover Green LQ + True Turquoise LW
O: Clover Green LQ + Clover Green LW
P: Green Turquoise LQ + Clover Green LW
Q: Red Poppy LQ + Autumn Oak LW
R: Red Poppy LQ + Kiln Red LW
S: Kiln Red LQ + Kiln Red LW
T: Kiln Red LQ + Autumn Oak LW
U: Peony Pink LQ + Autumn Oak LW
V: Red Poppy LQ + Clear Sky LW
HORIZONTAL STRIPE SECTION
Knit every row.
VERTICAL STRIPE SECTION
Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker, slip last stitch of Vertical Stripe Section, knit next stitch of Horizontal Stripe Section, pass slipped stitch over to join Vertical Stripe Section to Horizontal Stripe Section, turn work.
Row 2 (wrong side): Move working yarn between needles to back of work, knit to end of row, slipping marker when you come to it.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
PICK UP FOR HORIZONTAL STRIPE SECTION
Orient blanket with cast-on edge at the bottom and Vertical Stripe Section across the top. With right side facing you and with specified color, pick up and knit one stitch between each garter ridge along selvage edge, starting with upper right hand corner of blanket. Be sure to start picking up between cable-cast-on row of Vertical Stripe Section and first garter ridge, and finish picking up between last garter ridge and bind-off row from the Vertical Stripe Section. [150 stitches on the needle]
NOTE: For help with picking up stitches, please visit our tutorial and scroll down the page to the Along A Vertical Edge: Garter Stitch video.
SCHEMATIC
CRIB
Want to see it bigger? Click here and view the Crib schematic as a PDF!
THROW
Want to see it bigger? Click here and view the Throw schematic as a PDF!
PATTERN
NOTE: As you work, always hold together one strand of Linen Quill and one strand of Line Weight (see Notes, Yarn Doubled). The Color Combo List (see Notes) tells you which two colors to hold.
With Combo A, cast on 150 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
HORIZONTAL STRIPE SECTION 1
With Combo A, work Horizontal Stripe Section (see Notes) for 5 (6) inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn (see Notes).
VERTICAL STRIPE SECTION 1
At the beginning of next row, with right side facing you and Combo B, use a cable cast on to loosely cast on 1 stitch, place marker (pm), loosely cast on 44 stitches. [195 stitches]
Work Vertical Stripe Section (see Notes) until Combo B measures 3 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo C, work Vertical Stripe Section for 2 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo A, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo C, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1 inch, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo D, work Vertical Stripe Section for 2 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo E, work Vertical Stripe Section for 4½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo A, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo E, work Vertical Stripe Section for 2 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo F, work Vertical Stripe Section for 8 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo A, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo F, work Vertical Stripe Section for 2 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo E, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1 inch, until all stitches from previous Horizontal Stripe Section have been worked, removing marker on last row and ending with a right-side row.
Next Row (wrong side): Bind off knitwise and cut yarn.
HORIZONTAL STRIPE SECTION 2
With Combo A, work Pick Up For Horizontal Stripe Section (see Notes). [150 stitches]
Still with Combo A, work Horizontal Stripe Section for 4 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
VERTICAL STRIPE SECTION 2
At the beginning of next row, with right side facing you and Combo G, use a cable cast on to loosely cast on 1 stitch, pm, loosely cast on 69 stitches. [220 stitches]
Work Vertical Stripe Section until Combo G measures 3 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo H, work Vertical Stripe Section for 4 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo I, work Vertical Stripe Section for 2 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo A, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo I, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo H, work Vertical Stripe Section for 5 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo G, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1 inch, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo A, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo G, work Vertical Stripe Section for 2 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo J, work Vertical Stripe Section for 3 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo K, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1 inch, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo L, work Vertical Stripe Section for 2 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo M, work Vertical Stripe Section for 2½ inches, until all stitches from previous Horizontal Stripe Section have been worked, removing marker on last row and ending with a right-side row.
Next Row (wrong side): Bind off knitwise and cut yarn.
HORIZONTAL STRIPE SECTION 3
With Combo A, work Pick Up For Horizontal Stripe Section. [150 stitches]
Still with Combo A, work Horizontal Stripe Section for 5 (4) inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
Crib Size Only
Bind off loosely and cut yarn.
Continue on to the Sashing section, below.
Throw Size Only
Cut yarn.
VERTICAL STRIPE SECTION 3
At the beginning of next row, with right side facing you and Combo N, use a cable cast on to loosely cast on 1 stitch, pm, loosely cast on 9 stitches. [160 stitches]
Work Vertical Stripe Section until Combo N measures 6 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo A, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo N, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1 inch, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo O, work Vertical Stripe Section for 5 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo A, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo O, work Vertical Stripe Section for 9 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo P, work Vertical Stripe Section for 6 inches, until all stitches from previous Horizontal Stripe Section have been worked, removing marker on last row and ending with a right-side row.
Next Row (wrong side): Bind off knitwise and cut yarn.
HORIZONTAL STRIPE SECTION 4
With Combo A, work Pick Up For Horizontal Stripe Section. [150 stitches]
Still with Combo A, work Horizontal Stripe Section for 4 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
Bind off loosely and cut yarn.
VERTICAL STRIPE SECTION 4
At the beginning of next row, with right side facing you and Combo Q, use a cable cast on to loosely cast on 1 stitch, pm, loosely cast on 54 stitches. [205 stitches]
Work Vertical Stripe Section until Combo Q measures 2 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo A, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo Q, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1 inch, ending with a wrong side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo A, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo Q, work Vertical Stripe Section for 4½ inches, ending with a wrong side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo R, work Vertical Stripe Section for 6½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo S, work Vertical Stripe Section for 4 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo T, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1 inch, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo A, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inch, ending with a wrong side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo T, work Vertical Stripe Section for 2 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo U, work Vertical Stripe Section for 1½ inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
With Combo V, work Vertical Stripe Section for 3 inches, ending with a wrong-side row. Cut yarn.
HORIZONTAL STRIPE SECTION 5
With Combo A, work Pick Up For Horizontal Stripe Section [150 stitches]
Still with Combo A, work Horizontal Stripe Section for 6 inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
SASHING: BOTH SIZES
With right side facing you, rotate blanket 90 degrees clockwise so left selvage is at the top, ready to pick up for Left Sash.
With Combo A, pick up and knit one stitch between each garter ridge along selvage edge of Horizontal Stripe sections, and one for each stitch on Vertical Stripe sections. [195 (300) stitches]
Knit every row for 4 (5) inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
With a right-side facing you, bind off loosely.
With right side facing you, rotate blanket 180 degrees clockwise so right selvage is at the top, ready to pick up for Right Sash. Join Combo A and work Right Sash as for Left Sash.
FINISHING
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
Learn About Linen Quill + All Our Beautiful Yarns
We designed this project to highlight the uniquely beautiful qualities of our Linen Quill, a wonderful fingering-weight yarn that is a blend of 50% wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. It feels amazing in your hands, and in 70 jaw-droppingly gorgeous colors, Linen Quill is the candy store of yarn!
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Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Like I did with the Library Blanket of a similar construction, I made a color palette preview tool for this pattern in JavaScript and Canvas if anyone wants to play around with making this design in other colors: https://lizdenys.com/journal/articles/side-street-blanket-color-preview-tool.html Enjoy!
Hi Liz,
Thank you so much for creating a new color tool for the Side Street Blanket as well! We are so grateful for your work, as I know so many people (myself included) have gotten good use out of the one you made for the Library Blanket. Thank you again!
All the best,
Lili
Love this, need to make it, but not thrilled with what looks like a very orangey-red. If I wanted to swap the red and green sections, for larger green and smaller red, how do you recommend swapping out the yarn? Is the red color quite orangey as it appears in the photos? Any thoughts on how to modify (other than swapping stripe colors) for a different hue?
Hi Liz,
Thanks for reaching out. The red colors are actually made up of a few different yarn colors combined! There are some oranges mixed in there, which gives the red section a more orangey hue.
You may be interested in a color palette preview tool that a customer made for this pattern! You can find it right here. This tool allows you to play around with any color combinations in order to find the perfect one for you!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for the tool–I’m doing this in grays and rose/pink, all linen quill. The combos are georgeous. I just did my swatching and will work with the dark and light areas on your plan, just using variations of rose and gray on each set of horizontal stripes.
My horizontal stripe joins aren’t as neat as the pattern. I tried slipping as if to knit and slipping as if to purl; I think the sl to k works better. Which do you use? any other ideas to neaten it up?
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for reaching out! That is an excellent question, this same thing came up last year (since we don’t specify in the pattern) so I worked up swatches slipping both ways. Pulrwise would be the go-to way to slip the stitches, but I actually found that slipping them knitwise looked just as good and I actually preferred that method. One other tip I have is to be extra careful when slipping/working the slipped stitches not to overstretch them, this can make things look a little uneven and messy. However, if you block the blanket when finished that will also help make your stitches look more uniform and even.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thanks Gianna, I’m taking care not to stretch the slipped stitch; and I’m knitting the first two stitches of the return very tightly. Much neater join! The rose/gray combo is lovely, I’ll send a pic when done.
Best,
Sandy
I am having a heck of a time casting on while holding these two different weight yarns together. The yarn is becoming a tangled mess. I have searched on solutions, but keep getting advised not to hold two different yarn weights. I am DETERMINED to make this beautiful blanket, but I’m worried I am too much of a beginner knitter.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! Line Weight and Linen Quill are actually the same weight of yarn (both fingering weights). My best tip for working with two strands is to treat them exactly as if it was a single strand holding them together as one. If the yarn gets tangled around each other that is totally normal, but nothing to be too concerned by. I would also recommend keeping the balls in a bag, this will help keep them in place together.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
OK! I will try that. The quill seems to be more “springy” than the line weight and I thought their textures meant they were different weights, as well. They got terribly tangled during the cast on process, so much so that I couldn’t actually start knitting. I will try keeping the balls in in my bag. Hopefully that will help. At least now I know the tangling isn’t such a problem. Thank you!
Question re. Cable cast on. You say to face completed vertical right side to start cable cast on. The instructions from you link say to do so from wrong side. Does it matter and which side should be facing me when I do the cast on. Mother than that, the instructions are brilliant. Thanks
Hi Marianna,
Thanks for reaching out, and that’s a very good question! In this pattern, the cable cast-on is worked at the edge of the fabric, which can either be considered the end of a wrong-side row or the beginning of a right-side row. If we consider it to be the end of a wrong-side row, then the first step of the cable cast-on is to turn your work to the opposite side, which would be the right side! However, since this step is exactly what one would normally do at the end of any wrong side row, we decided not to include that instruction, and notate the cable cast-on as occurring solely on the right side. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi!
Is this blanket reversable, or does the wrong side show contrasting color stitches along the edges of the blocks?
Also, what difficulty level do you consider this blanket pattern to be?
Sincerest thanks,
Erin
Hi Erin,
Thanks for writing in with your question!
Although the Side Street Blanket is reversible, the wrong side of the fabric will show the contrasting purl ridge along the rows with color changes. This pattern is very simply constructed, so as long as you can pick up stitches, slip stitches, and knit, this project will be perfect for you! You can always reach out to us if you need any help along the way!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hello!! Love all your products and patterns! I would like to make this in a crib size for a California baby — would it ruin the depth and beauty of the pattern if I did double strands of the Buttercup Cotton yarn (or even a single strand of a heavier weight cotton yarn)? Thank you!!
Hi Alison,
Thanks for writing in. I think you could absolutely use Buttercup Cotton or one strand of a heavier cotton yarn for this blanket! The color combinations and resulting gradients will be different, but I think there are some really cool options. Let me know if you’d like help selecting colors!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lily!! Thanks so much — I would love to get some advice on color selection!
Hi Alison,
Great! I think the most important thing to consider when substituting colors for this particular blanket pattern is dividing the colors into separate groups of each stripe. The original design has a blue stripe, a purple stripe, a green stripe, and a red stripe, but Buttercup Cotton doesn’t have any green colors, so I think this should be switched to a yellow stripe. I’d recommend the following colors be used for each stripe:
Blue Stripe: Bluebird Egg, Evening Blue, Pale Denim, Morning Sky, Heirloom White
Purple Stripe: Purple Aster, Lavender Fog, Vintage Pink, Heirloom White
Yellow Stripe: Summer Melon, Jonquil Yellow, Heirloom White
Red Stripe: Cedar Wood, Rosy Red, Tomato Orange, Summer Melon, Heirloom White
And for the border, I’d suggest holding two strands of Heirloom White. I hope this helps you create a color palette for this blanket using Buttercup Cotton!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!!!
Hi there,
I’m interested in knitting this blanket in the crib size and just wondered if there was a washable yarn could use instead of the Linen Quill?
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for reaching out with your question! I’d be happy to suggest some machine washable substitutes for the Linen Quill used in our Side Street Blanket!
Fist, I’d recommend checking out Posy! This gorgeous hand-dyed yarn comes in a variety of vibrant colors that would work perfectly for your project. Because this yarn is hand-dyed, we recommend hand washing each skein in cold water before winding it into a ball in order to avoid bleeding when blocking your finished project. Visit our Re-Fixing Dye tutorial to learn all this technique.
My next recommendation would be using Santolina. This yarn is spun from 70% organically grown cotton, 20% rayon from bamboo, and 10% hemp, making it light and soft with a very subtle sheen that would give your blanket a lovely texture. The colorways are more subtle and tonal, but I think they would lend themselves well to a project with color-blocking.
Finally, we have our fingering weight cotton yarns, like Buttercup Cotton and Picnic Cotton! These versatile yarns tend to get softer with use and washing, so they are the perfect material for a blanket.
I hope these recommendations help! Please let us know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Carly
Hi,
I completed the side street blanket and I have a lot of leftover yarn. Can you recommend an other blanket pattern that might
work with this yarn? Thanks.
Hi Mary Ann!
Thank you for writing to us, and congratulations on finishing your blanket! You can find more blankets using Linen Quill right here, and our collection of fingering weight blankets at this link, too. Depending on how much yardage you have left, the Nature’s Palette Blanket, Sand Drift Blanket, Easy Puzzle Blanket, and Mitered Corner Blanket might be great options for your collection of colors!
I hope this helps inspire your next project, and please feel free to let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Maybe I just don’t quite understand the cable cast on yet, but I am confused when reading the pattern that it adds the number of vertical cast on stitches to the horizontal cast on number. So after the first section it says 195 (150+45). I am making it more complicated than it needs to be or am I missing something?
I think I figured it out! 😛
Hi Emma,
Glad to hear that you’ve figured out your question already! I’ll answer it out anyway though, just in case someone else has the same question. We notate the stitch count in this way because you will have all 195 stitches live on your needles at once! While the cable cast-on section will eventually become perpendicular to the original stitches, it’s useful to have the full stitch count at first so that you can double check to make sure it’s correct before proceeding.
All the best,
Lili
Is this bundle out of stock? The link doesn’t seem to work.
Thank you!
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m so sorry to share that this bundle is no longer available. We’re always happy to help with building custom palettes and bundles, though, and if you’re interested in that please feel free to reach out to us at [email protected] and we can assist you there! I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat