Nature’s Palette Blanket
Earth, air, fire, and water. Forest, desert, ocean, and sky… All in one very beautiful blanket. Our Nature’s Palette Blanket is for the nature-loving, the color-obsessed, and the fiber-infatuated!
An afternoon sky peeks through a redwood forest canopy; a setting sun casts a lavender glow in the sky; and inky blue slides into deep eggplant as dusk turns to dark. The interpretations are endless, which means you can bring your own experiences to bear on this stunning blanket’s color flow.
This unfettered color play wouldn’t be possible without the 17 new colors we just added to our Linen Quill collection. Its raw blend of fine highland wool, alpaca and linen conjures nature’s rugged beauty and is the perfect foil for this blanket. In double stranded seed stitch, the texture and heft of the Nature’s Palette Blanket add a whole other layer of satisfaction.
To smoothly transition from one color to the next, we hold two different color strands together and alternate colors for a few rows at each color shift. We put together the 14 skeins you’ll need in our Nature’s Palette Blanket Bundle, making it easy for you to get started on your gorgeous blanket!
UPDATE: NOW A WRAP
OCTOBER 2022
A carefully crafted tribute to our Nature’s Palette Blanket, this wrap is smaller in size, but its artistry is expansive! It has all the same gorgeous gradient color as its namesake, now in a version that can venture out into the world with you. The Nature’s Palette Wrap Bundle packs a magnificent amount of inspiration in a smaller, more affordable package than our Blanket Bundle. Cast on and enjoy the vibrancy of nature’s palette!
Designed by Purl Soho founder and co-owner, Joelle Hoverson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoNaturesPaletteBlanket, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
MATERIALS
Our Nature’s Palette Blanket Bundle includes…
- 14 skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 439 yards/ 100 grams.
- 1 skein of Kettle Black; approximately 307 yards required
- 2 skeins of Dark Iris; approximately 623 yards required
- 2 skeins of High Tide; approximately 549 yards required
- 1 skein of True Turquoise; approximately 417 yards required
- 1 skein of Vintage Celadon; approximately 356 yards required
- 1 skein of Oatmeal Gray; approximately 360 yards required
- 1 skein of Pale Oats; approximately 373 yards required
- 1 skein of Crocus Bud; approximately 356 yards required
- 1 skein of Rosewood Pink; approximately 211 yards required
- 1 skein of Kiln Red; approximately 417 yards required
- 2 skeins of Chestnut Red; approximately 492 yards required
NOTE: A few customers have been a handful of yards short of True Turquoise. Please make sure you’re getting the correct gauge and also be sparing with your True Turquoise ends! If you want to be sure you have enough, consider ordering an extra skein. If you don’t end up needing it, you can return unwound yarn for a refund within 30 days of purchase, or within 6 months, for store credit. Our Return Policy has all the details!
You’ll also need…
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles
GAUGE
19 stitches and 34 rows = 4 inches in seed stitch with yarn doubled
SIZE
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 40 inches wide x 60 inches long
NOTES
(These are notes about the pattern, and the pattern itself starts below!)
COLOR KEY
Throughout this pattern you will hold two strands of yarn as you work. The two strands will always be different colors, and we have named each combination Colors A-O. They are…
Color A: Kettle Black + Dark Iris
Color B: Dark Iris + High Tide
Color C: High Tide + True Turquoise
Color D: True Turquoise + Vintage Celadon
Color E: Vintage Celadon + Oatmeal Gray
Color F: Oatmeal Gray + Pale Oats
Color G: Vintage Celadon + Crocus Bud
Color H: Crocus Bud + Oatmeal Gray
Color I: Crocus Bud + Kiln Red
Color J: Kiln Red + Pale Oats
Color K: Pale Oats + Vintage Celadon
Color L: Crocus Bud + Rosewood Pink
Color M: Rosewood Pink + Chestnut Red
Color N: Chestnut Red + Kiln Red
Color O: Chestnut Red + Dark Iris
STITCH PATTERN
Row 1 (right side): K2, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1, slip 1 purlwise wyif.
COLOR CHANGE ROWS
The Color Change Rows transition from the Original Color to the New Color over the course of 4 rows.
Set-Up: After completing instructions to work in Stitch Pattern in Original Color, cut yarns, leaving 10-yard tails. Wind the tails into one small ball.
Row 1 (right side): With New Color, k2, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. Slide work (see below).
Row 2 (right side): With Original Color, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. Turn work (see below).
Row 3: (wrong side): With Original Color, slip 1 purlwise wyif, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, slip 1 purlwise wyif. Slide work.
Row 4: (wrong side): With New Color, slip 1 purlwise wyif, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1, slip 1 purlwise wyif.
TURN AND SLIDE
When you work the Color Change Rows, you either “slide” or “turn” the work at the end of each row.
“Turn work” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with circular needles: Transfer the needle from your left hand into your right hand and the needle from your right hand into your left, flipping the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
“Slide work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to complete the next row is right there waiting for you!
PATTERN
With Color A (see Notes), cast on 195 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Work in Stitch Pattern (see Notes) until piece measures 4 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4 (see Notes), adding in Color B.
With Color B, work in Stitch Pattern for 3 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color C.
With Color C, work in Stitch Pattern for 10 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color D.
With Color D, work Stitch Pattern Rows 1 and 2 two times. [4 total rows]
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color E.
With Color E, work Stitch Pattern Rows 1 and 2 two times. [4 total rows]
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color F.
With Color F, work in Stitch Pattern for 3 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color E.
With Color E, work Stitch Pattern Rows 1 and 2 two times. [4 total rows]
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color G.
With Color G, work in Stitch Pattern for 2 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color H.
With Color H, work in Stitch Pattern for 2 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color I.
With Color I, work in Stitch Pattern for 2 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color J.
With Color J, work in Stitch Pattern for 2 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color F.
With Color F, work Stitch Pattern Rows 1 and 2 two times. [4 total rows]
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color K.
With Color K, work in Stitch Pattern for 2 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color L.
With Color L, work in Stitch Pattern for 2 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color M.
With Color M, work in Stitch Pattern for 3 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color N.
With Color N, work in Stitch Pattern for 5 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color D.
With Color D, work in Stitch Pattern for 1 inch, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color O.
With Color O, work in Stitch Pattern for 4 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Rows 1-4, adding in Color A.
With Color A, work in Stitch Pattern for 4 inches, ending with Row 2.
Bind off in stitch pattern.
Weave in all ends and block!
Is there a suggestion on how to keep these two strands of yarn from winding around each other and getting tangled? I’ve tried keeping the balls separate by a couple methods (in separate bags and just separated by space) but still they cross over each other.
Hi Marilyn,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you are knitting the two strands together as one it is alright if they happen to twist around each other a bit! Keeping the balls separate is fine but since you are pulling the yarn together to the same space twisting is bound to happen and totally normal. To avoid the strands getting tangled I would recommend not pulling too much yarn off the ball at once so you don’t have an excess of yarn around you while knitting, but rather keep the yarn wound on the ball and pull from it as you need it keeping the yarn taut!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I just received my beautiful Nature’s Palette bundle and, like others, I am mildly trepidatious about all that seed stitch. I am considering knitting the blanket in good old garter but I notice that no one seems to be taking that option. What will be the effect of knitting such a large project in garter? Will it stretch out too much given the size of the project? A big blanket is not necessarily a bad thing in my opinion.
Hi Janice,
Thanks for writing in! I think you could certainly make this blanket in garter stitch rather than seed, however it will be the opposite of what you said. Seed stitch is actually a larger gauge than garter, so you will need to add more stitches to maintain the width of the blanket, otherwise it would be a bit narrow. I recommend starting out by working a gauge swatch in garter, from there you can calculate your gauge and cast on amount from there!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Thank you so much for this insight. I am so looking forward to showing off this project when finished.
In directions it says to knit for 10 inches color (high tide and true turquoise). In the picture the large block seems to be turquoise’s. What am I missing? It seems the large block as shown in the picture should be both the turquoise’s, Color D.
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out! The large section (Color C) is the combination of High Tide and True Turquoise together not just True Turquoise, when the two yarns blend together it picks up more of a turquoise hue. Once you have knit Color C for 10″ you will then switch to Color D (True Turquoise + Vintage Celadon) and work that combination for a few rows.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Thanks for responding so quickly but I still don’t understand why in the picture of the blanket the large block of color is turquoise (both turquoise’s together?) and in the pattern it says to knit the turquoise with the red tide for 10 inches, which creates a large block that is not turquoise as in the picture. Red tide and true turquoise make a darker color.
Thanks I hope this makes my question clearer.
Caroline Tierney
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for your response! Again, the 10-inch section (as well as in the photos) is the combination of High Tide and Ture Turquoise together, not just the turquoise. Since you are knitting with the two colors together it is possible that one color will be more prominent in the finished fabric, in our case the Ture Turquoise pops more in the photographs even though it is knit together with High Tide in that section. If you zoom in on the photos you can see that section is a combination of the lighter and darker shades (High Tide and True Turquoise) which blend together to create the turquoise color of that section. Keep in mind that High Tide is just a darker shade of teal and when blended with turquoise, it will pick up the turquoise hues.
I hope this better clarifies things!
Gianna
Is there another yarn alternative for this blanket since this one seems to sell out too quickly. I love the colors. Is there anything in similar colors that is maybe a bit thicker so I don’t have to put two strings together?
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out! If you would like to knit this with a single strand I would recommend using our Linen Quill Worsted! It is the same yarn we used for this blanket and comes in a great selection of colors (some of the same as Linen Quill!) This should knit up to a similar gauge as the two strands held together but I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning.
Alternatively, I would recommend HARRISVILLE DESIGNS Shetland. This is a great substitute for Linen Quill but this one would need to be held doubled like in the original pattern!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
i just received the nature’s palette bundle and look forward to beginning this blanket. i must admit i have never knitted with two colors together and i don’t usually change colors when i knit, but i’m assuming i will have to weave in the ends for each color change. is that right? i read your tutorial on weaving in ends, and i’m wondering which method will work best for weaving in these ends.
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for writing in! Even though it may seem a bit intimidating, knitting with two strands is very easy and not much different from knitting with a single strand! And yes, you are correct, you will need to weave in the ends for each color. If you have looked at our Weaving in Your Ends Tutorial, unfortunately, don’t have a tutorial for seed stitch at this time, but I would recommend using one of the Garter stitch variations and adapt it for this stitch!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
thanks for answering my questions of may 3 regarding weaving in ends on the nature’s palette blanket where i am knitting with two strands of yard. i did forget to ask whether i should weave in the two ends together or separately? thanks in advance…deborah
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for reaching out! Whether you weave your ends in together or separately is up to you! I know I personally prefer to weave in my ends separately to keep it from getting bulky, but you could certainly weave them in together if you prefer.
Warmly,
Kelsey
What cast on method do you recommend? Do you cast on with one colour or 2?
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend using a basic long tail cast on for this blanket, and you will be casting on using both strands of yarn, not just one!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you!
Good morning!! I bought this beautiful kit, and I am about 3 inches into the first color pattern. My question is the slipping purlwise wyif, I know this may be a dumb question, but is the yarn supposed to wrap around the side or something? My edges are getting kind of wonky and I would like to fix this before I get more than 3 inches in. Or, is it just supposed to look like a slipped stich, which looks cleaner in my opinion.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! The purpose of the slip stitch is to add a nice border to the blanket, so it should look just like a slip stitch and not be twisted. If things are looking a bit wonky then it may be because you are slipping the stitch incorrectly or you are knitting it the wrong way when you then work the slipped stitch causing it to twist. My best advice is to be extra careful of how you slip the stitch and knit it so that you are consistent all the way through!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Maybe I’m reading the pattern incorrectly, or maybe I just can’t count, but I don’t understand how the last stitch of the right side row can be K1 if it’s an odd number of stitches.
Help!
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! It can be a little tricky to visualize, but with seed stitch, we use an odd number of stitches so that you have a knit stitch at the beginning of the row and end of the row so that the borders match! The odd number guarantees that if you start with a k1 you will also end with a k1, while if you have an even number of stitches you would then start with a k1 and end with a p1.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Gianna,
The concept makes makes sense. Do the directions for the first row mean that we begin with a K2 and then end with K2?: (“Row 1 (right side): K2, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.)
Thanks.
—Anne
Hi Anne,
Thanks for your reply! Yes, that is correct, for row 1 you will start with k2 and end with k2!
Warmly,
Gianna
I have a question about this blanket, would it be okay to knit it in the worsted version of the Linen Quill yarn? And if so, when are the Rosewood Pink and Chestnut Red be back in stock? I really love the pattern and colors but the last 3 projects I’ve knitted have been in fingering or lace yarn and I’m a little tired of the size.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you can use a single strand of Linen Quill Worsted instead of two strands of Linen Quill (the two strands of Linen Quill together will work up to a similar gauge to a single strand of worsted weight.) However, the only issue is that we do not make all of the original colors of Linen Quill in Linen Quill Worsted. For example, we don’t offer Rosewood Pink or Chesnut Red in Linen Quill Worsted, those colors are only available in the original Linen Quill. The colors that you can see on the product page are the only colors we make in the Worsted version. So, if you like the original color palette, I would suggest sticking with Linen Quill, and even though it is a fingering weight yarn, working with the two strands together will be basically the same as working with a light worsted/worsted weight!
I hope this clears things up and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
I understand the limitations of the colors in the worsted line of yarn. When will the 3 colors (Kettle Black, Crocus Bud, and Chestnut Red be back in stock)? I’m sure that this will be a winter project for me but I’d really like to collect all the yarns. Should I get the ones that are available and wait for the other three???
Hi Linda,
Thanks for your response! Crocus Bud is actually in stock and available now and we should have Kettle Black available within the next few weeks, but again Chesnut Red is not one of the colors we offer in the worsted weight, it is only available in the original Linen Quill.
Since it looks like Kettle Black is the only one you are waiting for you can buy the other colors now and wait for that color to come back in the next few weeks or you can wait and purchase them all then! I would recommend adding your email on the product page and we will send you a notification as soon as Kettle Black is available.
Warmly,
Gianna
I’ve received the yarn that you’ve got in stock and it is just so soft and wonderful. I have another question, what if I wanted to make it 48 x 65, how much more yarn would I need for the additional length and width? One skein of each color?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for your response! I’m so glad to hear that you are pleased with the yarn! I think this blanket would look great in a larger size, I would recommend an extra skein of each color to be sure you have enough!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
When changing colors, I know I will cut a 10 yard tail of the Old Color to use for the next rows, but how much of a tail do I leave of the New Color as I begin to use it? Does it need to be long, or just a few centimeters?
This is a new challenge for me! Thank you.
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out! When you start the new color I would recommend leaving at least a 7″ tail, to ensure you have enough to weave in your ends once you finish!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Perhaps this question has already been asked, but when I do seed stitch it is very “airy” with holes between the stitches, likely from switching from knit to purl. Does this close up once it’s blocked?
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! Typically with seed stitch, you should have a denser fabric with the purl and knit stitches close together. If you are finding that you have holes it may be because your tension is uneven or a bit too loose. Have you measured your gauge to make sure it is consistent with the pattern?
My best advice is to try to keep your tension as even as possible across the row! Also, that is correct, this is something that can be adjusted a bit when you block the finished blanket.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
If I would like to make this larger, 48×65, what would be the new
Number of cast on stitches or stitch repeat number, stitch increase repeat, so the rest of the pattern falls into sequence?
Thank you!
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out! If your gauge is consistent with the pattern, you can cast on 229 stitches for 48″, just be sure to cast on an odd number so that the stitch pattern works accurately! From there you can follow the pattern as written without any further adjustments.
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi,
I am also interested in making this blanket larger in size as well. How much more yarn would I need if I increased the size to 48″ like specified above?
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! To adjust the size of your blanket to be 48 x 65″, you would need approximately the following amount of yarn:
1 skein of Kettle Black; approximately 399 yards required
2 skeins of Dark Iris; approximately 810 yards required
2 skeins of High Tide; approximately 714 yards required
2 skein of True Turquoise; approximately 542 yards required
2 skein of Vintage Celadon; approximately 463 yards required
2 skein of Oatmeal Gray; approximately 468 yards required
2 skein of Pale Oats; approximately 485 yards required
2 skein of Crocus Bud; approximately 463 yards required
1 skein of Rosewood Pink; approximately 274 yards required
2 skein of Kiln Red; approximately 542 yards required
2 skeins of Chestnut Red; approximately 637 yards required
Compared to the original size blanket, you would need 6 addition skeins (1 more of the True Turquoise, Vintage Celadon, Oatmeal Gray, Pale Oats, Crocus Bud, and Kiln Red). I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Cat
Hello. I just finished this gorgeous blanket as a Going Away to College gift for my niece. I have quite a lot of yarn left, and I wonder if you have any suggestions for other projects I could make using the leftover yarn…?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to suggest some options for you, do you have any projects you are interested in making, like a scarf or hat?
Looking forward to your response!
Gianna
Hi Gianna! Thanks so much for responding. After finishing such a large project, I’m down for some smaller projects right now: scarf, hats, maayybbee a shawl (there’s ALOT of yarn left!).
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for your response! I would suggest our Best Friend Hat, Gradient Cowl, or Strata Scarf! All three would be perfect for your leftover Linen Quill!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Thanks so much, Gianna!
hello! I will be finishing my Nature’s Palette blanket soon, are there any special blocking instructions? Normally I would soak it in cool water (or spritz with water to dampen it) and lay flat to dry, using some blocking pins?
Also, washing instructions for the finished blanket- should this be hand washed in cold and lay flat?
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for writing in! Yes that is exactly what we would recommend for this blanket, you can either soak or mist the blanket and then lay flat to dry with our without pins. As for washing, we also suggest hand washing cold and then laying flat to dry! For more tips, I recommend checking out our wonderful tutorials for Blocking and How to Hand Wash a Sweater, both of these posts have all the steps we follow when blocking/washing our samples!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
great, thanks!
Do you think it’s really necessary to block this blanket? I’ve just finished and it looks great unblocked so I’m curious what the advantage would be here. Thank you
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for reaching out! Blocking a blanket like this is certainly optional! If you like how it turned out once you finished knitting it then you don’t need to block it if you don’t want to. However, we recommend blocking since it can help you even out and re-distribute the stitches as well as achieve a perfect rectangular shape to finish off the blanket.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
The colors of this project are amazing! I can’t wait to try new skills knitting 2 colors together. Referring to above comments, 9.13.21, Barbara said there is quite a lot of yarn left and 8.2.21 Cheryl asked about making the blanket bigger, 48X65. Is there enough yarn included in the kit to make it 48X65? I’d like to do that as well!
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! You could certainly make this blanket bigger to use up more of the yarn! However, I would suggest buying an extra skein of Ture Turquoise, the size as is, uses almost the full skein so you will need a bit extra to ensure you have enough to complete the blanket!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi regarding the color change row—I understand that first you cut both strands of the original colors at 10 yards then knit the first change row with color b. Are rows 2 and 3 knit with the 10 yards of color a? I am thinking yes but wanted to confirm. Thank you.
Hi Mary,
Thank you for your question! Yes, Rows 2 and 3 of the color change rows are worked with the cut 10 yard tails of the original color.
I hope this helps clarify things!
Happy knitting,
Margaret
Thank you Margaret! Have a great weekend.
You are very welcome, Mary, and I hope you have a great weekend, too!
All the best,
Margaret
I am within the final 10 rows and I am puzzled about whether or not to knot the two sets of yarn together before weaving in the ends. The fact that the edge has slipped stitches – I am concerned that a tug on the blanket will cause unraveling. Thoughts?
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! There is no need to knot the yarn together, you will be able to secure your ends in place when you weave them in! For more tips on that, you can check out our Weaving in Your Ends tutorial!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello! I’ve been dreaming to make this blanket a couple years now and finally have all yarn in hand, first few balls wound, and have completed several gauge swatches. Here’s my dilemma. I got gauge on size 6 oneedles, but the swatch I did with size 7, which is 18 stitches and 29 rows = 4 inch square, I like better! It was easier to knit and feels softer and bunching in my hands, in a nice way. The swatch at stated gauge (19 inches and 34 rows = 4 inches square) didn’t slide well on the needles as I was knitting and it feels rougher to the touch. Am i imagining this? I’d tend to just with the right gauge of course but since it’s a blanket, well, I’m now debating what to do. Oh I should note I’m using olive wood needles, from same set. Should I just go with the size 6 and trust it’ll soften up as I go? Or is it okay to go with the size 7s? If so, would you make any adjustments to cast on number to be sure to get the right shape? Would that impact how much yarn I’m using too? Thanks for all your wonderful work. I love everything you guys put out and recommend your site all the time! I’ve also read through all the comments here twice, grin. Cheers and thanks!
Hi Myrna,
Thanks for reaching out about this. If you like the feel of the knitted fabric with the size 7 needles, I’d say go for it and knit the entire blanket at the slightly larger gauge! The roughness you’re feeling in the swatch with the smaller gauge is most likely due to these stitches just being closer together, though I do think it will appear softer the more you knit.
One thing to keep in mind is that this blanket (even knit at the correct gauge) sometimes runs short on the color True Turquoise. So because you’ll be using up a bit more yarn by knitting it at a larger gauge, I would highly recommend just purchasing one more skein of this color!
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Ah lovely thanks so much! This helps a ton. I know have the confidence to plow on ahead with the larger gauge, and yes will get one more skein of true turquoise. Thank you! Now my holidays plans are set: knit!!!
I am about to order this bundle and will probably be using a square needle (addi Rocket square or Kollage square). So it is very possible that I will have to use a size 8. If I cast on the number of stitches called for in the pattern, will I have enough yarn to do that if I also order one extra skein of the True Turquoise? I do not mind it the blanket comes out a little larger but I do want to do the stripes as show as I think the pattern is perfect.
Hi Ila,
Thanks for writing in. I think that you should be fine on yarn as long as you order that extra skein of True Turquoise! The needle sizes are pretty close, so I doubt you’ll run into any trouble with the other colors. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I am wondering when this kit will be back in stock so I can order it. This will be my first order so I hope it will be soon. Will I be entitled to the 15% order (since it is my first) when ready, so please let me know as soon as possible. Thank you, Bonnie
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for writing in. We’re hoping to have the Nature’s Palette Blanket Bundle back in stock by the end of January! If that’s not too late for you, we’d recommend signing up to be notified when it returns by going to the product page and entering your email address. This way, you’ll be the first to know!
You can access the welcome discount by signing up for our newsletter! Once you do that, you’ll receive an email with the discount code in it, and you can use this code in the Customer Code section at checkout to apply the discount. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I am about halfway through my Nature’s Palette blanket. It’s a big project, but it’s going well, and In am grateful for the very careful instructions. Do you have a recommendation for a method of weaving in the ends? Since they are all on one side, and the blanket is reversible, I want to be sure that they are properly done. My usual techniques for this task don’t really work for seed stitch.
Hi Sue,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend taking a look at our Weaving in Your Ends Tutorial. Unfortunately, we don’t have a tutorial for seed stitch at this time, but I would recommend using one of the Garter stitch variations and adapt it for this stitch! In particular, I think that weaving in your ends on the diagonal might work for seed stitch. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
As I have now done a few color changes while working this pattern, I am wondering why I would cut the original color prior to working the color change rows. For the first color change, my tails were not long enough and I had to add yarn to complete the color change.
Can’t I just leave the original colors in their balls until after the color change is complete and then cut them? I can see cutting it only if needed when the next color contains one of the original color yarns.
Hope my question is clear. Thank you!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, that is correct, unless you are using the same color in the next color change you can complete the color change without cutting the yarn and using the tail!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Can you make a suggestion or link to a tutorial to give some guidance on weaving in ends when in seed stitch? My blanket is lovely and deserves the right finishing.
Hi Sue,
Thanks for writing in. There are definitely a few different ways you can go about weaving in ends in seed stitch. The first way I want to recommend is actually a method we recommend for garter stitch, but it will essentially work for seed stitch as well! Take a look at the “Weaving in Ends on the Diagonal” section (for garter stitch) in our Weaving in Your Ends tutorial: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/weaving-in-your-ends/.
Another method that will work for seed stitch is also worked on a diagonal, but is different! To weave in your ends this way, first pull your end upwards through 2 purl bumps. Then, find the closet purl bump to the right (or left, depending on which side of the blanket you’re starting from) and slightly above. Pull the end downwards through this purl bump and the one below it. Next, find the closest purl bump to the right/left and slightly above and pull your end upwards through this bump and the one above it. Just continue along this way until you’ve woven in the end to your liking!
One final thing you could do is to weave the ends in up the edges of your blanket. This method may not be the most secure way to do this, but it will prevent the ends from interfering with the main fabric. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I am about to start my blanket and notice above that you suggested the long-tail cast on. I much prefer the look of the German Twisted cast on and wanted to check in to see if you know of any reason that I should not use it.
Also I normally do the EZ sewn bind off on a scarf or blanket when I am using the German Twisted cast on. I don’t think that will be practical for so many stitched. Is there any cast off that you might suggest to match the German twisted cast on.
Hi Ila,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely do a German Twisted Cast-On for this blanket! That sounds like it will turn out very nice, since that cast-on has so much stretch to it. I’m sorry to say that I don’t know of any bind-off techniques off the top of my head that will match that cast-on edge (I usually do a sewn bind-off myself, to mirror a long tail cast-on). But after a little searching online, I found the Icelandic Bind-Off, which may be worth it to check out as an option! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
I am So enjoying knitting this blanket. And it is so beautiful. You all are brilliant with the patterns and colors you create and your website could not be easier to navigate. Thank you for this site !!
I want to knit this blanket with a neutral cream palette next. Could you help me pick out the combination of colors to use ?
Thanks again ,
Kiersten
Hi Kiersten,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so happy to hear that you have enjoyed this blanket! I would love to pick out a palette for you, would you like to include any color or have it all in cream colors?
Looking forward to your response!
Gianna
Beautiful yarn. Beautiful afghan. I made it for my husband, he loves it! What are the washing directions? I am weaving ends and next I need to wash and block. Thank you.
Hi DeeDee,
Thanks for reaching out! We recommend hand washing this blanket and laying it flat to dry, for more tips I would recommend checking out our How To Hand Wash A Sweater tutorial, even though it is for a sweater, the process is still the same!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Thanks for the quick response. I’m leaning towards neutrals – creams , whites , grays. But also some blues would be nice as well.
Again thank you so much ,
Kierstengrissom
Hi Kiersten,
Thanks for the information, that is very helpful! I would recommend the following for a neutral palette:
Heirloom White (1 skein), Oatmeal Gray (2 skeins), Pale Oats (2 skeins), Wheat Flour (2 skeins), Pale Mushroom (1 skein), Stonewall Gray (1 skein), Salt + Pepper (1 skein), Gray Denim (1 skein), Stillwater Blue (1 skein), Mountain Bluebird (1 skein), and Vintage Celadon (1 skein)
and follow this color key:
Color A: Heirloom White + Oatmeal Gray
Color B: Oatmeal Gray + Wheat Flour
Color C: Wheat Flour + Pale Mushroom
Color D: Pale Mushroom + Stonewall Gray
Color E: Stonewall Gray + Stillwater blue
Color F: Stillwater Blue + Mountain Bluebird
Color G: Stonewall Gray + Vintage Celadon
Color H: Vintage Celadon + Stonewall Gray
Color I: Vintage Celadon + Salt + Pepper
Color J: Salt + Pepper + Mountain Bluebird
Color K: Mountain Bluebird + Stonewall Gray
Color L: Vintage Celadon + Gray Denim
Color M: Gray Denim + Pale Oats
Color N: Pale Oats + Salt + Pepper
Color O: Pale Oats + Oatmeal Gray
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Thank you ! Thank you ! This is so very thoughtful and helpful !
Kiersten
Thank you so very much !!
This is so helpful !
Kiersten
Hello Gianna
I’m fascinated by the neutral palette you created, but I don’t see Heirloom white among the colour options. Is it out of stock or perhaps renamed?
Hi Gina,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m so sorry to say that we’ve discontinued Linen Quill in Heirloom White! While we loved this color, not everybody else felt the same way, so we’ve had to make the sad decision to stop producing it. We hope you can understand! As an alternative, we’ve been recommending Pale Oats. This color is very similar to Heirloom White, but it is slightly brighter and warmer!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili
I’m very excited to try out this palette as you suggested. I see that you’re currently out of the Grey Denim but it’s waaaaaay down the pattern. It’s probably safe to begin and wait for notice of new stock, right?
Hi Gina,
I’m glad you’re looking forward to it! We’re hoping to have Linen Quill in Gray Denim back in stock around the end of May. We’re so sorry for the delay and are anxious to see it back too! Since you’ll only need it towards the end of the pattern, this timeframe should work out fine though.
In the meantime, we’d recommend signing up to be notified when it returns by going to the product page, selecting Gray Denim, and entering your email address. You can repeat this step for each color you’re interested in. This way, you’ll be the first to know!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I got the nature’s palette bundle and the colors are amazing! I love the earthy combination of blue & red. For the next project, I would love to work on a blanket/wrap with color theme that mimic foggy forest in twilight/early evening (so gray-blue-green-purple type of palette? Im thinking darker, muted, less saturated color like the Juniper Green). Could you please give me some guidance on how I should choose the color combo? Thank you so, so much!!
Hi E,
Thanks for reaching out, and I think that’s a great idea! One thing that I like to do when creating my own custom color palette is to screenshot the photos of a bunch of yarn colors from the product page (here’s the product page for Linen Quill) and then drag them around on my desktop or a word processor so I can see how they look together. This allows me to explore all the options!
To get you started, here are a number of colors that I think would match the theme you’re going for and look nice together:
Grays: Kettle Black, Salt + Pepper, Stonewall Gray
Blues: Dark Denim, Stillwater Blue, Gray Denim
Greens: Juniper Green, Fresh Pickle
Purples: Dark Iris, Lavender Opal
Browns (I think this color group would add to the palette!): Twig Brown, Pale Mushroom
I hope this helps give you some inspiration for your next project!
All the best,
Lili
Hello Purl Soho team
Quick question about this neutral palette – I notice that colours G and H are the same. Is that deliberate?
I assume I just knit four inches altogether, obviously with no need to switch colours in between. Or is there possibly an error here?
Thanks!
Hi Gina,
I’m not entirely sure if Gianna intended to make those two colors the same or not! If you choose to use her recommended palette, then you can totally just knit 4 inches (plus 4 rows) without working the Color Change Rows in between.
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I’m just reading the comments – can it be dry cleaned instead of hand washed?
Thanks!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Although dry cleaning should be safe and not damage the yarn, we haven’t tested this out on Linen Quill. For safety, I would recommend sticking to hand washing the blanket with our lovely Sweater Soap for the best result!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this but want to know if I would need to re-fix the dye on all the colors before beginning it.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m glad to hear that you love this design! I would highly recommend re-fixing the more saturated colors (darker, reds, and pinks) to be safe. Before going through the whole process though, you can always dip a piece in some water to see if there’s any overflow! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I sure wish you could convert your patterns to crochet. I totally love them but can’t knit to save my life
Hi Colleen,
Thanks for reaching out. I completely understand wanting to see crochet versions of our patterns! While we haven’t been able to do this for all of our patterns yet, we do indeed have crocheted versions of some of them, as well as many individual crochet patterns. For the Nature’s Palette Blanket specifically, while we haven’t made a crochet version yet, I think that it would look great in moss stitch, if you’re up for giving that a try! Thank you again for sharing your thoughts. We really appreciate your feedback and take it very much to heart!
All the best,
Lili
Anyone tried knitting this pattern and using all of the yarn? I’m trying to get an idea of the bed dimensions — twin/full size?
If I want to increase the size to 48×65 will I need to purchase more yarn then I purchased with the kit, and how will the pattern change?
Hi Judy,
Thanks for reaching out. It’s a little difficult for us to predict exactly how much yardage you’ll use to make a larger version of this blanket because of the varying widths of the stripes. But based on the general extra area you gain by making the blanket bigger, this is how many skeins of each color you should buy:
1 skein of Kettle Black; approximately 399 yards required
2 skeins of Dark Iris; approximately 810 yards required
2 skeins of High Tide; approximately 714 yards required
2 skein of True Turquoise; approximately 542 yards required
2 skein of Vintage Celadon; approximately 463 yards required
2 skein of Oatmeal Gray; approximately 468 yards required
2 skein of Pale Oats; approximately 485 yards required
2 skein of Crocus Bud; approximately 463 yards required
1 skein of Rosewood Pink; approximately 274 yards required
2 skein of Kiln Red; approximately 542 yards required
2 skeins of Chestnut Red; approximately 637 yards required
In terms of making changes to the pattern, you’ll first need to change how many stitches you cast on. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by 48 and cast on the nearest odd number. Then, to modify the width of each stripe, just knit for a few more rows in every section! You’ll want all of these extra rows to total at 5 inches eventually.
I hope this helps you prepare for your project!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I just finished my first color change and the edges aren’t as nice and neat as they had been in the first section. Is this a byproduct of the slide and turn maneuvers, or did I screw something up?
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out. The most likely culprit for a messy edge is tension! The tension of the working yarn gets more difficult to control in the color change section, so I’m not surprised that you’re noticing the edges changing in texture. I’d recommend keeping a close eye on your tension at the edges during the color change sections in particular. We would also be happy to take a look at your work to make sure it isn’t something else going on! Feel free to send along photos of your washcloth to customerservice@purlsoho.com, and we can troubleshoot more.
All the best,
Lili
I am knitting the blanket. Noticed at point near completion of blanket that Color N transitions to Color D. Neither of the colors in Color N are in Color D. If this is correct both colors of Color N are dropped and no tail of either is necessary. Same thing happens when Color D transitions to color O. Please confirm.
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for writing in. I can confirm that the colors in the pattern are correct at that point! The juxtaposition of the contrasting colors creates the striking blue stripe near one end of the blanket. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I would like to make this larger, closer to the size of a twin blanket (66’x90′); can you please recommend how many more skeins of yarn I would need, and how the pattern would change? Please advise, thank you so much!
Hi Susan!
Thank you for your question! To knit a longer blanket at the dimensions you have listed, you would need at least 21 skeins of yarn total. To figure out how many stitches to cast on, you can refer to the gauge measurement. Assuming you are knitting at gauge (19 stitches = 4 inches with yarn doubled), you would need to cast on about 313 stitches to reach 66″ wide. Then, you can knit in pattern, incorporating new colors as you go, until you reach your desired length!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi. I am a weaver, more than a knitter, and wonder show this would look as a woven piece. Any thoughts on whether this package is enough yarn to weave the blanket rather than knit it?
Thank you
Hi Marieta,
Thanks for writing in with such an interesting question! There should definitely be enough yarn to weave the blanket instead of knitting it, but we’re not sure if you can achieve the same variation in color if you try to weave it instead. The original seed stitch is used to emulate a woven look and uses two strands of different colors at once while transitioning through different sections.
You can set up the warp accordingly with the recommended colors, but once you start weaving, I feel like you’ll get a plaid look instead. Of course, if you’re open to experimenting, we’re all for it and would love to see what you come up with! We hope you’re feeling inspired to give it a go and are here for you if you still need help!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I’m happily knitting up this blanket in the neutral palette suggested in the comments. It’s looking great so far.
However, when I ordered my yarn, Blue Denim was out of stock and it STILL is. I’m also not getting the little box for my email address so I get a restock notification. Is there a chance that you’re not restocking this colour? And if so, what should I order to replace it?
Thanks!
Hi Gina!
Thank you for asking, and we’re glad to hear you’re enjoying this blanket so far! We hope to have Gray Denim back in stock by the end of this month, so if that’s not too late for you, you can select the color itself on the Linen Quill product page and enter your email to be notified when it is back in stock! Alternatively, you could use another strand of Mountain Bluebird or Vintage Celadon in its place.
I hope this helps, and please feel free to let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
This looks like a beautiful way to knit a climate stripe blanket!
Going to start a piggy bank to save up for the shipping costs. Your materials and patterns are always so wonderful
Hello, I have the Nature’s Palette bundle and have recently completed the Sand drift throw in Sweet Grass ( I used #10 needles). I just love the texture of this pattern. I have swatched out both the seed stitch, half seed stitch and the slip stitch options using the yarn from the Nature’s Palette. I am thinking of using the provided two color combinations of yarn held together knitting in the slip stitch pattern… any thoughts?
Hi Kaleo!
Thank you for your question. I think using the Nature’s Palette color pairings in the Sand Drift Blanket stitch pattern would be a really cool effect, and if you are happy with how your swatches have turned out, then I say go for it! The Sand Drift Blanket stitch pattern has one color as the background color and one color as the foreground color, which lends itself nicely to the flow of the Nature’s Palette color story. I would suggest using two strands of one color for the background and two strands of the other color for the foreground. (For example, the first stripe would have Kettle Black in the background and Dark Iris in the foreground.)
When the next two colors do not include either of the previous two colors, you will have four colors to navigate (two strands held together for each color), however you could always adjust the order of the stripes so that you include one color from the previous stripe for the next stripe!
I hope this helps with your blanket planning, and please let us know how this project goes!
All the best,
Margaret
I’d like to knit this gorgeous blanket using a basic seed stitch. Do I need to modify the pattern? Thanks!
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for writing in. This blanket is designed to be knit in seed stitch, so you can follow the pattern as written for a seed stitch version!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello! Would a moss stitch work well for this blanket? I’d like to work with something slightly less complicated/easier. Also, if moss stitch works, what sort of border on the sides should I use?
Thank you, Lisa
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for getting in touch with us! This blanket is worked in seed stitch, which is actually the same as moss stitch! We include a slipped stitch selvedge on the wrong side to keep a tidy edge, and alternate between stitch pattern sections and color change rows to create the gradual color progression. If you would like something a little different, you could always work this blanket in garter stitch, slipping the first stitch in each row for a smooth selvedge edge.
I hope this helps with your project planning!
All the best,
Margaret
How about a tutorial on carrying a second color up the side?
Don’t we have to do that in this Nature’s Palette pattern?
Hello!
Thank you for writing in. During the color change rows in this pattern, you will have to carry the yarn up the side, but only just for a moment! We have a tutorial for how to carry yarn up the work right here. When done correctly, the color that you will use for each row in the Color Change Rows will be right there waiting for you, so carrying the yarn up the side is only done to bring the yarn up to the current row, but not to carry it along the entire length of the stripe.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi! I am curious about the 10 yard tails during color change. I think I did everything correctly and am left with nearly 3 yards left of tail after my color change. Any ideas about why there is so much wasted?
Hi Sabrina,
Thanks for reaching out. We always write our patterns and yardage requirements with a bit of a buffer, since different knitters naturally use up more or less yarn, depending on their tension. We like to stay on the safe side, since it’s much better to end up with some yarn left over than to run out in the middle of the row (especially when you just cut the yarn)!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I’m a little confused on carrying up the yarn on the color change rows. Do we do this on both edges? I watched the recommended video, but not sure of the process when we slip a stitch at the beginning of the row purlwise wyif, for example. Thank you in advance.
Hi Meredith,
Thanks for reaching out. In the Color Change Rows, you will only need to carry the color up the side at the transition between Row 2 and Row 3, since that’s the only time both colors will be on the same edge of the blanket! As for the slipped stitches, they fortunately do not change anything about this technique. You can follow the instructions in our tutorial, but instead of knitting the first stitch, just slip it and purl the following one!
All the best,
Lili
Hello there!
My daughter bought me the lovely Nature’s Palette blanket kit as a very thoughtful Christmas gift. Is there a pattern for crochet? I am not a knitter and would appreciate some direction on how to make a similar looking blanket or throw (I know crocheting uses more yarn per stitch than knitting). The yarn looks absolutely beautiful and I can’t wait to get started. Thank you!
Hi Michele,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we haven’t designed a crochet version of this blanket yet though! But you can absolutely adapt it for crochet quite easily. I’d recommend starting by picking a simple stitch (moss stitch would be my personal preference, because I find it gives the crocheted fabric more drape than other stitches). Then, you can work that stitch in stripes with each color pairing as written in the knitting pattern. As you mentioned though, crochet does take up more yarn than knitting! To deal with that, I would suggest making the blanket slightly narrower and each stripe slightly shorter.
Hope this helps you get started on your project!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili! I appreciate your crochet suggestions.
Happy New Year!
Hello, I was reviewing the pattern and had a question about the color change between color N to D to O. Color D doesnt include the colors needed for N and O so Im not sure how to change between the three seamlessly. I see the turquoise strip in the photos but want to make sure I do it correctly when I reach that point! Thanks in advance!
Hi Ashtyn,
Thanks for reaching out. You’re right, the transition between Colors N, D, and O will be a bit more abrupt than some of the other color changes, but that’s part of the design! It really makes the turquoise strip pop. When you reach this point, you’ll work the transition in the same way as all the other transitions–just work the Color Change Rows, adding D, and then work the Color Change Rows, adding O, after you finish the portion with Color D. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I believe that when I knit this blanket a year or so ago I ordered an extra skein of the True Turquoise. Do you still recommend the extra skein?
Hi Therese,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, we still recommend an extra skein of True Turquoise! We also recommend waiting to wind it into a ball so that, if you don’t end up using it, you can return it within six months for store credit.
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I have just been looking at some of the older comments and see a question about refixing the yarn in darker colors. I’m about halfway in and it never occurred to me to do that. I don’t see any reference to it with the yarn. I’m now very worried my yarn will bleed. Thank you!
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out about this! We’ve had a small amount of cases in the past of the darker, more saturated colors of Linen Quill bleeding, which is why we recommended refixing the dye. It’s a pretty rare occurrence with Linen Quill, but it’s good to be aware that this is a possibility for many yarns!
If you want to double check the yarns you’re currently working with, I’d recommend leaving a snippet of each color in a glass of water for a few hours. If the water remains clear, then you definitely don’t need to refix the dye! But if you’re noticing some color, then you can go through the refixing process for the rest of the skein.
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I’m quite new to knitting.
I’ve just restarted this because both sides looked the same and I picked up stitches. I was also getting confused as to which is row 1 and which is row 2. Can you give an example of what the right and wrong sides should look like for this pattern please? Thanks
Hi Sheila,
Thanks for reaching out! Since seed stitch is a reversible stitch pattern, it’s very difficult to tell the right side from the wrong side. I would recommend placing a removable stitch marker on the right side of the fabric. Whenever this stitch marker is on the side of the blanket facing you, you’ll know that the right side is facing you and it’s time to knit a Row 1!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! Sounds like a good suggestion. 🙂