The Incredible Blanket
Our 40-ball bundle of Linen Quill Minis is a jubilant celebration of color… Join the party with our free Incredible Blanket pattern and revel in the beauty!
Linen Quill’s glorious array of colors is always inspiring, so we’ve bundled up forty of them in 25-gram balls (including seven that aren’t even available in skeins yet!). The big idea is for you to have a yarn palette as unfettered as a paintbox, where your creativity and love for color can be free!
You’ll get a splash of every color in the spectrum, plus some outside of it! A fantastic project for making use of this color extravaganza, The Incredible Blanket is just knit stitches on one side and a relaxed rhythm of purls and easy knit-one-below stitches on the other.
The result is rows of interlocking colors, each change a moment to relish the glorious way colors relate to each other.
When we knit our Incredible Blanket, we pulled randomly from two baskets of Linen Quill Minis, one full of warm colors and one of cools. We let chance (and faith in the beauty of Linen Quill) lead the way! Follow our color order (listed in the pattern) to make the exact same Incredible Blanket; replicate our method to make your own serendipitous beauty; or come up with your own color logic!
Behind all this play is the serious beauty of Linen Quill. Fifty percent fine highland wool for springiness, 35% alpaca for softness, and 15% linen for earthiness. The linen takes dye differently than animal fibers, giving each color of Linen Quill a heather-y depth, and linen’s tendency to sprout out of the yarn lends a rustic liveliness that knitters love.
Inspired? Pick up a beautiful bundle of Linen Quill Minis for yourself and for the makers in your life who love fiber, color, and natural beauty, and paint the town in splendorous color!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Hiromi Glover. Click here to see even more of Hiromi’s work! Color order chosen by Purl Soho founder and co-owner, Joelle Hoverson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
- 1 Linen Quill Minis bundle, 50% highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each bundle is approximately 4,360 yards/ 1000 grams; approximately 3,490 total yards required.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 40-inch circular needles
GAUGE
26 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern (see Notes)
SIZE
Finished Dimensions: 51 x 51 inches
NOTES
STITCH MULTIPLE
This pattern is worked over a multiple of 2 stitches.
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all stitches purlwise with yarn in front.
KNITTING INTO THE PURL STITCH BELOW (K1B)
Our video tutorial, above, walks you through this technique, and for those who prefer to read about it., here’s the lowdown…
Insert the tip of the right needle into the purl stitch below the next stitch (from front to back), knit normally (wrapping the yarn around the needle and pulling it back through the stitch below), and let the stitch above fall from the left needle.
WEAVING IN ENDS AS YOU GO
To spare yourself weaving in dozens and dozens of tails, we recommend weaving them in every time you join a new color at Rows 1 and 3. Our video tutorial explains how to do this, or read all about it below!
To weave in ends as you go, *hold the tails of the new and old color together, bring them over the working yarn at the wrong side of the work and knit next stitch, drop tails and knit next stitch as normal, repeat from * for approximately 1 inch.
Note that you should carry the ends only on knit or knit 1 below (k1b) stitches. To keep this rhythm, begin knitting in ends on the third knit stitch of Row 1 and the second knit stitch of Row 3, then every other stitch after that.
STITCH PATTERN (FOR GAUGE SWATCH)
Row 1 (right side): K3, *p1, k1b (see Notes), repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, slip 1 (see Notes), k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, k1, slip 1, knit to last 3 stitches, slip 3.
Row 3: K3, *k1b, p1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, slip 1, k1.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Repeat Rows 1–4 for pattern.
COLOR ORDER
Knitting this blanket is all about the fun and surprise of color relationships, of striping two colors that you might normally think have no business being together and discovering that they actually make each other sing. Along the way, your heart will open to colors you’ve never loved before and you may never see the world the same! Here’s how to do it…
Grab four vessels (we used paper bags). Put the following colors into two bags (if you’ve lost any labels, you can refer to the Color Guide included with your bundle)…
BAG OF WARM COLORS
Magnolia Blossom, Red Poppy, Bright Flamingo, Chestnut Red, Super Orange, Golden Wheat, Buttercup Yellow, Raw Sienna, Peony Pink, Peachy Pink, Fresh Nutmeg, Butterscotch Yellow, Turmeric Yellow, Kiln Red, Pink Pop, Lychee Pink, Baked Earth, Golden Green, Crocus Bud, and Purple Clematis
BAG OF COOL COLORS
Clover Green, Fresh Pickle, Pale Mushroom, Lavender Opal, Pale Oats, Cobalt Blue, Reed Gray, Blue Blue, Kettle Black, Eggshell Blue, Pale Celery, Wheat Flour, Stillwater Blue, Stonewall Gray, Grasshopper Green, True Turquoise, Pine Cone, Blue Pansy, Bird’s Egg Blue, and Lemon Lime
Now, close your eyes and select one color from each bag to create a pairing. If they aren’t high enough contrast or they’re too similar to the colors you just knit, just put them back and pick again. Use this pair to work Rows 1-4 of the pattern, then set these colors aside, putting the warm one in a second bag for warm colors and the cool one in a second bag for cool colors. Continue to pick and knit pairs until you have used all 40 colors once and your original bags are empty. Now use your full bags of warm and cool colors to do it all again! Repeat the process 6 more times (7 total) to complete your blanket. Nothing could be more fun!
NOTE: If you’d rather not put your trust in controlled chaos and want to make your Incredible Blanket just like ours, feel free to follow along with Joelle’s exact color order at the end of the pattern!
PATTERN
NOTE: Read all about how to pick your colors, above, or to knit a blanket exactly like ours, use Joelle’s Color Order, listed below.
With Color 1, cast on 332 stitches. We used a Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 1 (see Notes), k1, slip 1, knit to last 3 stitches, slip 3.
With Color 1…
Row 1 (right side): K3, *p1, k1b (see Notes), repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, slip 1, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, k1, slip 1, knit to last 3 stitches, slip 3.
Cut Color 1, leaving a 2-inch tail, and join Color 2.
With Color 2 and weaving in ends as you go (see Notes)…
Row 3 (right side): K3, *k1b, p1, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k1, slip 1, k1.
Row 4 (wrong side): Slip 1, k1, slip 1, knit to last 3 stitches, slip 3.
Cut Color 2, leaving a 2-inch tail, and join Color 3.
With Color 3 and weaving in ends as you go, repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Cut Color 3, leaving a 2-inch tail, and join Color 4.
With Color 4 and weaving in ends as you go, repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Continue with the same logic, working in pattern and switching colors every 2 rows according to your preferred Color Order. Work until piece measures 51 inches, ending with Row 4, then go on to the Finishing section below. [561 rows total]
JOELLE’S COLOR ORDER
- Peachy Pink
- Pale Celery
- Butterscotch Yellow
- Stillwater Blue
- Super Orange
- Reed Gray
- Golden Wheat
- Blue Pansy
- Chestnut Red
- Wheat Flour
- Pink Pop
- Lavender Opal
- Bright Flamingo
- Clover Green
- Kiln Red
- Blue Blue
- Fresh Nutmeg
- Eggshell Blue
- Peony Pink
- Cobalt Blue
- Raw Sienna
- Pale Oats
- Turmeric Yellow
- Stonewall Gray
- Red Poppy
- Grasshopper Green
- Baked Earth
- Pine Cone
- Golden Green
- Kettle Black
- Purple Clematis
- Pale Mushroom
- Magnolia Blossom
- Fresh Pickle
- Buttercup Yellow
- True Turquoise
- Lychee Pink
- Birds Egg Blue
- Crocus Bud
- Lemon Lime
- Butterscotch Yellow
- Stillwater Blue
- Kiln Red
- Stonewall Gray
- Super Orange
- Cobalt Blue
- Peony Pink
- Pine Cone
- Purple Clematis
- Clover Green
- Magnolia Blossom
- Wheat Flour
- Red Poppy
- Blue Blue
- Crocus Bud
- Kettle Black
- Buttercup Yellow
- Reed Gray
- Chestnut Red
- Lavender Opal
- Fresh Nutmeg
- Grasshopper Green
- Pink Pop
- Pale Mushroom
- Baked Earth
- Pale Celery
- Turmeric Yellow
- Pale Oats
- Lychee Pink
- Birds Egg Blue
- Raw Sienna
- Eggshell Blue
- Bright Flamingo
- Fresh Pickle
- Golden Wheat
- True Turquoise
- Golden Green
- Blue Pansy
- Peachy Pink
- Lemon Lime
- Purple Clematis
- Stonewall Gray
- Raw Sienna
- Lavender Opal
- Kiln Red
- Blue Blue
- Fresh Nutmeg
- Lemon Lime
- Crocus Bud
- Pale Celery
- Golden Green
- Wheat Flour
- Baked Earth
- Blue Pansy
- Pink Pop
- True Turquoise
- Super Orange
- Grasshopper Green
- Red Poppy
- Birds Egg Blue
- Butterscotch Yellow
- Stillwater Blue
- Turmeric Yellow
- Cobalt Blue
- Peony Pink
- Kettle Black
- Peachy Pink
- Pale Mushroom
- Magnolia Blossom
- Clover Green
- Buttercup Yellow
- Reed Gray
- Chestnut Red
- Eggshell Blue
- Golden Wheat
- Fresh Pickle
- Bright Flamingo
- Pine Cone
- Lychee Pink
- Pale Oats
- Bright Flamingo
- Stillwater Blue
- Raw Sienna
- Lemon Lime
- Kiln Red
- Reed Gray
- Turmeric Yellow
- Pine Cone
- Buttercup Yellow
- Pale Oats
- Baked Earth
- Kettle Black
- Lychee Pink
- Wheat Flour
- Purple Clematis
- Pale Celery
- Pink Pop
- Blue Blue
- Golden Wheat
- Stonewall Gray
- Peachy Pink
- True Turquoise
- Fresh Nutmeg
- Clover Green
- Red Poppy
- Eggshell Blue
- Butterscotch Yellow
- Cobalt Blue
- Peony Pink
- Fresh Pickle
- Crocus Bud
- Birds Egg Blue
- Chestnut Red
- Grasshopper Green
- Golden Green
- Blue Pansy
- Magnolia Blossom
- Pale Mushroom
- Super Orange
- Lavender Opal
- Baked Earth
- Clover Green
- Bright Flamingo
- Pine Cone
- Raw Sienna
- Reed Gray
- Golden Wheat
- Birds Egg Blue
- Red Poppy
- Wheat Flour
- Lychee Pink
- Lemon Lime
- Butterscotch Yellow
- Pale Celery
- Crocus Bud
- Stonewall Gray
- Fresh Nutmeg
- Pale Oats
- Peony Pink
- Cobalt Blue
- Kiln Red
- Grasshopper Green
- Peachy Pink
- Fresh Pickle
- Golden Green
- True Turquoise
- Magnolia Blossom
- Blue Pansy
- Pink Pop
- Lavender Opal
- Buttercup Yellow
- Stillwater Blue
- Chestnut Red
- Eggshell Blue
- Turmeric Yellow
- Blue Blue
- Super Orange
- Pale Mushroom
- Purple Clematis
- Kettle Black
- Pink Pop
- Wheat Flour
- Crocus Bud
- Pine Cone
- Baked Earth
- Clover Green
- Chestnut Red
- Lemon Lime
- Golden Wheat
- Birds Egg Blue
- Bright Flamingo
- Blue Pansy
- Magnolia Blossom
- Eggshell Blue
- Turmeric Yellow
- Stonewall Gray
- Peony Pink
- Fresh Pickle
- Kiln Red
- Reed Gray
- Buttercup Yellow
- Pale Celery
- Super Orange
- Pale Oats
- Lychee Pink
- Stillwater Blue
- Golden Green
- True Turquoise
- Raw Sienna
- Kettle Black
- Purple Clematis
- Grasshopper Green
- Fresh Nutmeg
- Cobalt Blue
- Peachy Pink
- Lavender Opal
- Red Poppy
- Blue Blue
- Butterscotch Yellow
- Pale Mushroom
- Peony Pink
- Birds Egg Blue
- Buttercup Yellow
- Eggshell Blue
- Raw Sienna
- Blue Blue
- Super Orange
- Stillwater Blue
- Purple Clematis
- Wheat Flour
- Butterscotch Yellow
- Stonewall Gray
- Magnolia Blossom
- Kettle Black
- Chestnut Red
- Pale Mushroom
- Pink Pop
- Grasshopper Green
- Golden Green
- Cobalt Blue
- Peachy Pink
- Clover Green
- Red Poppy
- Reed Gray
- Golden Wheat
- Lemon Lime
- Lychee Pink
- True Turquoise
- Baked Earth
- Pale Oats
- Turmeric Yellow
- Lavender Opal
- Fresh Nutmeg
- Blue Pansy
- Crocus Bud
- Fresh Pickle
- Kiln Red
- Pale Celery
- Bright Flamingo
- Pine Cone
FINISHING
With right side facing you, bind off in pattern as for Row 1.
Weave in any remaining ends, but do not trim just yet! First gently wet block to finished dimensions, using pins if necessary. Once dry, trim all remaining ends, and enjoy!
LEARN ABOUT LINEN QUILL MINIS + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Express your love of color with Linen Quill Minis! A unique opportunity to play, these 25-gram balls are mini versions of our super popular Linen Quill, a fingering-weight yarn that is a wonderful blend of 50% wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Pick up our spectacular 40-Color Bundle or one of our breathtaking 20-Color Bundles and go wild!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our growing collection of Linen Quill knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop wool yarn
- Shop alpaca yarn
- Shop linen yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
This is Amazing!! I cannot wait to finish knitting my holiday gifts to dive into this blanket (following Joelle’s color order, of course).
What a cool blanket, I’d love a short video clip of how to “knit in the ends” and the “KNITTING INTO THE STITCH BELOW K1B” those are both new to me.
Hi Lisa,
I’m afraid that we haven’t made a video tutorial for knitting in the ends yet, but I’ll pass your idea along to our design team for the future! But for more information about the k1b technique, be sure to visit our Working into the Stitch Below tutorial!
All the best,
Lili
I have a question about the weight of the yarn. I did two rows, and it’s very thin. Are we supposed to knit two strands together? Your picture of the blanket looks like different wool, and my rows look nothing like the blanket pattern. Help!
Kim 🙂
Hi Kim,
I’m sorry to hear that your blanket isn’t turning out as expected! Linen Quill is very thin, but we only held a single strand for this pattern. Would you be able to send a photo of your work so far to [email protected] so we can take a look? That way we’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
So pretty. I actually thought at first that this was a crochet blanket – granny stitch in rows. Gorgeous design.
I am mesmerized by the colors and I love knitting. But I am new to it again I should say. After decades of pause. I have severe wool allergies, can’t even do cashmere. So what jarn would you recommend to use instead? And do you sell it in a bundle like this?
Thank you so much
Y
Hi Ylfa,
I’m sorry to hear that you have such severe allergies! I would recommend using a plant-based yarn, like Santolina, for example, which is a mix of cotton, bamboo, and hemp. I’m afraid that we don’t offer this yarn in a bundle or in mini skeins, but I’m happy to provide some color recommendations if you’re interested in buying the full skeins!
All the best,
Lili
Oh no, not MINIS! I haven’t knit my Half + Half wraps yet, nor my Gradient Cowls. I have stashed so much LQ and now you’ve made irresistable LQ minis?
I also have in my stash all the Posy fingering for the Muhuroosa Blanket (even did the color stay process on all the skeins) but haven’t had time to cast on.
What I will have finished by Christmas is the Good Wool PRISM Blanket and it too is worth every stitch. This blanket is a MUST but Oh My.
Is there enough yarn in the “Linen Quill Minis” set to make both the blanket and the scarf? If not what is the most economical way to get what I would need?
Thank you,
Carol
Hi Carol,
I’m afraid that there isn’t quite enough yarn in the bundle to make both the blanket and the scarf. But you could make a smaller scarf with your leftovers! You’ll have about 870 yards left over, so you could make a scarf that’s about half the size of the smaller version. Alternatively, I’d recommend ordering two bundles!
All the best,
Lili
Is there a neutral shade that you would recommend that you could blend in with leftovers. I will buy a few full skeins.
Hi Linda,
I think that Twig Brown would be a great neutral shade to really tie together all the other colors! Alternatively, if you want a lighter option, then I’d recommend Wheat Flour. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
With 870 yards left over then that would be about 21+ yards of each color. Has someone calculated how many yards per row?
Hi Heidi,
While we don’t have an exact amount of how many yards per row, we can share that we have used approximately 2,937 yards total and 79 yards per color.
What an incredible blanket! While the 40 color version is great, I was thinking of doing only 10 colors (and ordering a full skein each). Can you tell me if these colors go well together? (So hard to tell on the website!)
Wheat Flour
Honey Pink
Baked Earth
Rosewood Pink
Lychee Pink
Raw Sienna
Butterscotch Yellow
Golden Green
Fresh Pickle
Fresh Nutmeg
If not, can you suggest colors you’d swap out? I love Golden Green and Fresh Pickle and am trying to figure out how to make those go with other colors. Thanks!
Hi Liz,
I absolutely love all the colors you’ve chosen! I honestly think both Golden Green and Fresh Pickle really work for the palette. Pink, yellow, and green is such a lovely (and in my opinion, under appreciated) combination, and I think the two green colors really pull everything together. We’d love to see a photo of your finished blanket eventually!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I had to check the pictures out closely because it looked like a crocheted blanket to me at first. (I bet it could be modified for those that prefer crochet). It looks like a glorious project anyway with all the color changes, what fun!
This blanket is stunning! I bought the bundle for your Pocket full of Posy a couple years ago and have had trouble mastering the brioche aspect of that pattern. Do you think that bundle of yarn would work well for this blanket if I figured out the proper gauge? Thank you!
Hi Cara,
Yes, Posy would be a great choice for this blanket! You should be able to achieve gauge, but you may need to size up or down your needles, so I’d recommend swatching!
All the best,
Lili
This is beautiful! Any chance you could publish a crib sized blanket in this pattern? Thank you.
Hi Pam,
While we haven’t designed a crib size version yet, you can easily make those modifications! All you’ll need to do is change how many stitches you cast on at the beginning for a narrower width. To figure out your cast-on number, just multiply the number of stitches per inch (6.5, according to the gauge of this pattern) by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest even number. Then you can follow the pattern as written, stopping after it’s reached your desired length!
All the best,
Lili
Just checking in to see if you’ve designed a baby blanket version of this yet. If not, what would be your recommendations for size, etc to reduce.
Thank you
Hi Susan,
We haven’t officially made a baby blanket version for this pattern, but you could easily modify it for any size you want! Like I mentioned in my previous comment, all you need to do is cast on a different number of stitches. We design make baby blankets to be approximately 28 by 32 inches, so you would just multiply 6.5 stitches per inch by 28 inches, which is 182 stitches. Then you can cast on 182 stitches and follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
This is so lovely! Could you maybe suggest how many stitches to cast on for a baby blanket size?
Hi Amy,
Thank you for your kind words! To figure out your cast-on number for a baby blanket, just multiply the number of stitches per inch (6.5, according to the gauge of this pattern) by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest even number. We typically design baby blankets anywhere between 28 and 35 inches wide, but that’s up to your preference. Once you’ve decided on your cast-on number, you can follow the pattern as written, stopping after it’s reached your desired length!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! Now I just have to figure out how to convert that to metric!
Hi. How long does the sale last? I need to make sure Santa knows. 🎅
Hi Dana,
The current sale lasts through the end of the day tomorrow, but there will also be plenty more sales throughout the upcoming weeks!
All the best,
Lili
Love the look of this blanket and yarn! How does the yarn feel? Alpaca tends to make me itch but I’m wondering with it combined with wool and linen maybe it wouldn’t?
Hi Jenn,
We’re glad this project caught your eye! I’m afraid that most types of wool tend to be even itchier than alpaca, so you’ll likely have the same issue with Linen Quill. You could try purchasing a color card of this yarn first to test it out next to your skin!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks…. I’ll do that!
I’m trying to get back into knitting after years off. I love the colors. Tried making the swatch yesterday and struggled. Knowing me I made it more difficult than necessary. Can I get help with this. I’d like to order before the sale ends.
Hi Mary,
I’m sorry to hear that you’re having trouble with this stitch pattern, and we’re eager to help! Can you let me know what’s causing the difficulty in particular?
All the best,
Lili
Hi, Yet another blanket design I LOVE! My only hesitation is having to wind each skein. Do they need to be wound or are they ‘set to go”?
Hi Amanda,
The Linen Quill Minis Bundle comes wound, so they’re all ready to knit!
All the best,
Lili
Ditto! Still working on my half and half but I LOVE these colors! Debating…
The finished dimensions in the pattern are 51×51” but the blanket in the photo looks larger than just over four feet. Was more than one bundle used in the example photographed?
Hi Olivia,
Nope, we just used one bundle for our sample! The way the model is holding the blanket in some photos causes it to pull downwards though, which could make it seem longer than it actually is.
All the best,
Lili
I love the yarn, the colors and the stitch pattern but I don’t want to make a blanket. I’m thinking of modify it to make a shawl or a scarf or, more ambitiously, a very simple, raglan sleeve sweater, perhaps a modification of your Copley dress but shorter and with short sleeves. Could you tell me what the pattern repeat is?
Thanks!
Hi Virginia,
Those ideas are very exciting, and I hope you try at least one (or more, since there’s so much yardage in the bundle) out! This stitch pattern works over any even number of stitches.
All the best,
Lili
Hi. This blanket is stunning!
Quick question: The pattern says the bundle makes a blanket that is 51” x 51”. The picture of the whole blanket being held up looks wider and less square. Did they make the sample with 2 bundles? Or is it a child holding it up. (Also looks wider than long which seems unusual.
Thank you for clarifying.
Stacey
Hi Stacey,
I can confirm that the blanket is approximately 51 x 51 inches! The way the model is holding the blanket in some photos causes it to pull downwards though, which could make it seem longer than it actually is.
All the best,
Lili
Gorgeous! Blanket. When I saw Brioche’s stitch, I said no way! Glad I kept reading, because I know how to K1b easy stitch to remember! Thank you for designing beautiful patterns.
Just a one question, can I use my DK stash yarn. Fewer stitches and needle size US 6-7.
Let me know. Thank you.
Hi Ruth,
Glad to hear that this pattern has caught your eye! You can absolutely use DK weight yarn, and just make sure to cast on an even number so that the stitch pattern works!
All the best,
Lili
Many years ago, I admired a similar blanket. The creator said she had made it from a bag of “yarn ends” she had purchased from the local mill in Wisconsin. She just picked out yarn ends randomly and knit the blanket. I am so excited to start this blanket.
Hi
I would love to make this baby blanket size is there another size guide?
Hi Susan,
We haven’t written up a version for a baby blanket yet, but I’d be happy to let you know how to make that yourself! All you’ll need to do is change how many stitches you cast on at the beginning for a narrower width. To figure out your cast-on number, just multiply the number of stitches per inch (6.5, according to the gauge of this pattern) by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest even number. Then you can follow the pattern as written, stopping after it’s reached your desired length!
All the best,
Lili
My minis arrived today ahead of time and the colors are stunning.
Whilst I was waiting, I practiced the K1b with contrasting scrap yarns and finally figured it out. If anyone’s having difficulty – keep trying! It’s worth it.
I’m looking forward to casting on for the blanket, I think it’ll make a great gift for my daughter.
I also have some full skeins of linen quill in different colors – enough to make the lightweight raglan sweater, so I’m thinking I might knit myself an “incredible” sweater.
Hi Charlotte, May I ask how you figured out the k1b stitch? I’ve found two videos, both show different methods and I can’t seem to figure out either one!
I’m having trouble as well. I keep dropping stitches when I try to do the stitch and then I have to start over. Is it just practice? Should I try with a thicker yarn first? Thoughts? Thank you.
Hi Jen,
It’s great to hear you are knitting this blanket! The colors are so fun! I found it extremely helpful to knit a two-color swatch over 14 stitches with worsted-weight yarn just to get a feel of the pattern and see how things are working up. It also helped me memorize the repeats once I started the blanket. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Thank you! That is a great idea.
Thank you! Sounds like a great idea!
I was looking for a blanket to knit/crochet for my guest room when this gorgeous pattern landed in my inbox! But at 51×51″, it’s too small for a queen-sized blanket. Google has told me that I need to make one that is at least 90×90″. Do you think I could make this with three bundles, modifying the number of CO stitches + the number of rows to get the size and dimensions I need? Thank you! I don’t think two bundles would be enough.
Hi Amirah,
This blanket would be so cute for a guest room! I did the math, and you would need 3 bundles for a queen size blanket. You’ll end up using the entirety of 2 of them and then about half of the last one. Then, based on the gauge of the pattern (26 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern), you’d need to cast on either 584 or 586 stitches and knit about 990 rows to meet those dimensions. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – you mentioned that after finishing the blanket that there will be approx. 850 yards left. Is there any reason why I couldn’t make the blanket a bit bigger? Say cast on 350/360 stitches??
Just got my bundle & I’m v excited to start.
Thanks!!!!
Hi Sherri,
You can absolutely make the blanket a bit bigger! 350 or 360 stitches will definitely work, and the absolute maximum stitch count that will work would be 370. Casting on 370 stitches will result in a blanket that’s approximately 57 by 57 inches!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili! I am also interested in making the blanket bigger by using up all of the yardage of the Minis.
With casting on 370 (from the orignal 332), you say the blanket will turn out to be 57×57, as opposed to 51×51.
I see how it becomes WIDER with the increased number of cast on stitches, but how is it becoming longer? Are you doing more row repeats as well?
Thank you for your time and expertise, cannot wait to cast on! ❤️
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for your question! That is correct. The length will depend on the number of rows you knit. I hope this helps clarify but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Decided to try this pattern with colors I already had to see if I was going to like this before purchasing the bundle. I cannot even imagine trying to make this huge blanket in that difficult pattern! I couldn’t even find the “below knit” to knit into! Maybe the pattern just needs to be clearer. Is there a video of someone actually doing this pattern? Even just having a tutorial video on a couple of rows (the start to the blanket) would be so helpful, would answer so many questions and might get me excited, again, about making this blanket
Hi Lisa,
I’m so sorry to hear that this pattern is so daunting, and I’m eager to help you get excited about it again! While we haven’t made a video tutorial on this pattern, you may find our 1-On-1 Project Help useful. This is a Zoom chat with one of our specialists who can walk you through every step in real time over video. We’re here to help every step of the way!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I ordered the materials for this incredible blanket and can’t wait to hold the 40 minis in my hands. I recently finished Nature’s Palate, another stunner, with linen quill — knitted with 2 strands. It’s very lightweight. Will Incredible be even more so?
I’m thinking of ordering a second set of minis so that I can knit with 2 strands, use a larger needle, and create a blanket with fewer stitches and more weight. How would I modify the number of stitches cast on to create the 51’ square blanket? Other considerations? Thank you!
Hi Susan,
That is such a great idea to knit this blanket with 2 strands! This blanket is very lightweight, so that will give the knit fabric more heft. Here’s how you can figure out your cast-on number with 2 strands…
You will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern with the yarn held double. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by 51 and cast on the nearest even number. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
I so want to knit this blanket. But I really need to use yarn that is machine washable and dryable – pets, grandkids etc. Do you have a suitable substitute yarn? Thanks
Hi Mommo,
Our Santolina would be a great machine washable and dribble substitute! This yarn is made from a mix of cotton, bamboo, and hemp, and it’s also a fingering weight yarn, like Linen Quill. As always though, we recommend knitting up a gauge swatch to determine what needle size is best for you to use to achieve the gauge of the pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Can you tell me how many skeins of Santorini yarn I would need to knit the Incredible Blanket
Hi Bev,
Thanks for writing in! The total yardage for this pattern is 3,490 yards, and each skein of Santolina comes with 328 yards, so you would need at least 11 skeins to knit this blanket!
All the best,
Lili
The bundle arrived yesterday, and I’ve CO and completed the Set Up Row -I’m ready for Row 1. I’ve watched the k1b video a couple of times and it looks SO easy, but then in real life with LQ and size 4 needles it doesn’t look easy anymore. On the Row 1 instructions, is it correct that the k1b will be on a purl stitch? I’m not going to lie, I’m not confident I can see/find the stitch below for Row 1 after the Set Up Row.–is it the CO stitch that I’m trying to knit into?
Hi Elisha,
Thank you for your question! Yes, there will be a purl bump on the stitch below the one on your needle that you will be working the K1B into, but you’ll be knitting into the V of that stitch, not the actual purl bump. Please feel free to reach out to us at [email protected] at any time if you have any other questions, we’re always happy to help!
All the best,
Cat
This really is an incredible blanket. I am having trouble deciding exactly when to bind off! For the binding off, do you suggest using a new colour. Thank you.
Hi Chyvette,
Thanks for writing in! We bound off with the same color we used on the previous two rows, but you could absolutely bind off in a new color if you’d like!
All the best,
Lili
I’m working on a project with Santolina right now. It never crossed my mind to use it. Thank you Lili.
I impulsively bought the yarn bundle and started on this beautiful project, knowing it would be a stretch for my knitting abilities. With a lot of trial and error, I think I’ve finally figured out the stitch pattern; however, I’m confused about how to knit in the ends! Do you have a video tutorial that explains it, or at least shows something close to what is recommended in this pattern? That would be so helpful! Thank you:)
Hi Meredith,
We’re so excited for your blanket! I’m afraid we don’t have a photo or video tutorial on how to knit in the ends for this specific project, but basically you will just cross your yarn tails on top of your working yarn at the wrong side of your work and then knit the next stitch with the working yarn. Because you have crossed the yarn tails over your working yarn, the working yarn will trap it and lock it in as you knit the next stitch. After repeating this process every other stitch for about one inch, the yarn tails are secured several times, meaning they’re not going anywhere!
I find that the process is similar to when you are knitting intarsia, a type of color work, and are switching from one color to the next, though it’s not entirely the same! During intarsia, you cross the previous color you were knitting with over the top of the new color, locking in that yarn. The difference with the knitting in the tails method for this blanket is that for The Incredible Blanket, you will bring both yarn tails over the needle to trap them against the fabric and will do this a few times to make sure it’s secure!
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Cat
I commented yesterday that I wasn’t sure I could figure out the k1b stitch on Row 1. UPDATE: I dove in & figured it out and it’s WAY easier than I thought it was going to be!! Can’t wait to see how this blanket comes together. I’m very, very excited about this project. 🙂
Hi Elisha,
Oh wonderful, I am so happy to hear that! That’s so awesome and we’re super excited for your blanket! Wishing you all the happy knitting! : )
All the best,
Cat
Hi – lovely blanket but I’m having trouble with the b1 stitch because the row below is the set up row. Is there a way to knit another row after the set up row that doesn’t have a b1 stitch. Thanks!
Hi Ellen,
What a great question! The K1b stitches on row 1 are going to be knit into only the knit stitches of the previous row (the setup row) making it easier to knit into those below stitches. Working the setup row should set you up to be able to easily get into those stitches. One thing that we have found helpful was to place markers after the first 3 sts and before the last 3 to help us make sure we don’t knit any of those selvedge edge stitches.
I hope this helps but if you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to send us an email at [email protected] and we would be happy to get you all set up.
All the best,
Gavriella
Thank you so much! You were very helpful –
Are the first 3 stitches and last 3 stitches alway slipped?
Ellen
Hi Ellen,
The edges are actually treated slightly differently to create the best tension on either side of the blanket! On one edge, you either k3 or slip 3, and on the other edge you either slip 1, k1, slip 1 or k1, slip 1, k1. The pattern has these instructions written into it, so as long as you follow the instructions, the edges will turn out great!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! Only three color in but enjoying the blanket knit – so clever. But, I would like to better understand the reason for 2 different edge treatments. The “K3 or slip 3” edge creates a nice little I-cord edge but that is not being duplicated on the other side. Why is that and what issues might I run into if I switched it to match? What does the “slip 1,K1, slip 1 or K1, slip 1, K1” create (it just looks messy on my blanket). Thanks for ALL you do!
Hi Heidi,
Thanks for writing in! When working these edges, they should come out almost identical. This was a simple design choice for this pattern so that one side mimicked the other. If you would like to change the edge stitches, I would recommend creating a small swatch with the changes you want to make before incorporating them into your larger blanket project. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
WOW WOW WOW. I have been a fan of Purl Soho for many years. I love the patterns for knitting and have made many projects. I love each and every one of them.
But this pattern is my most favorite. I call it my Mexican blanket for the beautiful yarn colors and pattern. It is a joy to watch the pattern come alive with the change of colors. Thank you for this amazing project. I plan to make quite a few of them. Thanks Purl Soho for filling our hearts and minds with the joy of knitting amazing pieces!!
Hi Candace,
We are so happy you are enjoying this pattern! It truly is such a lovely pattern! Thank you for your kind words.
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
This blanket is SO gorgeous!! WOW! I want to get the bundle but I’m a very beginner knitter. Do you think a beginner could figure this out with googling and patience?
Hi Anne,
Glad to hear that this pattern has caught your eye! I think it will be an exciting challenge for a beginner knitter, but we’re here to help if you have any questions along the way. If you decide to give the pattern a try, please don’t hesitate to reach out to us here, or by sending an email to [email protected]!
One tip to get you started in the meantime is we recommend making a practice swatch. If you have spare yarn on hand already, you can try out the stitch pattern using that! Then, you’ll be confident to begin the blanket when the time comes.
Hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Lili
Could you say how many yards of yarn I need to make the long tail cast on? I am never good at estimating this.
Hi Aara,
Great question! We recommend having a tail that’s 3.5 times the width of the cast-on edge. For this blanket, the width is 51 inches, so the tail should be about 178.5 inches!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I’m thinking about making this blanket in cashmere merino bloom. I thought I could just buy one of each color available and achieve a similar effect. Do you think that would work, and if so, would one skien of each be enough yarn? Thank you!
Sara
Hi Sara!
What a lovely idea! You could indeed make an Incredible Blanket using Cashmere Merino Bloom! One thing to keep in mind is this pattern is written for Linen Quill which is a fingering weight yarn. CMB is a dk/light worsted yarn so you will want to adjust your needle size and cast on number accordingly. This pattern requires 3490 yards of yarn which is approximately 16 skeins of CMB. With this in mind, if you were to purchase a skein of each color, you would have about 4578 yards of yarn to work with for this blanket. Please let me know if you need any additional help and we will be happy to assist!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi. Can you tell me if the linen quill minis bundle will be back in stock? If not how many skeins of the Santorini would I need?
Thank you
Rose
Hi Rose,
We’re hoping to have the Linen Quill Minis back in stock by the end of February. We’re so sorry for the delay and are anxious to see them back too!
If that’s not too late for you, we’d recommend signing up to be notified when it returns by going to the product page and entering your email address. This way, you’ll be the first to know!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
These colors make knitting this blanket is so exciting and fun ! I’m almost a dozen rows in and still haven’t figured out the “knitting in tails” method used for this pattern. The edge I start new colors is definitely thicker and the stitches/colors look muddled. I’m most likely doing something incorrect and a “knitting in tails” instruction in a photo series or video would be amazing. The intarsia link for similar tails technique didn’t make much sense.
Thank you so much !
Hi Stephanie,
We are sorry this is giving you issues! I am sending over an email with more clarification of the technique and a short video demonstrating how you can work these tails into your blanket!
Please look out for an email from our customer service team!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Hello
Can you send that video to me also? I have no problem with the K1b but am really struggling with knitting in the ends. Does cross mean end to end or actually crossed? And so many other questions.
Thank you
Hi Catalina,
Thanks for writing in! You can look out for an email shortly from our customer service team.
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello! I would love for you to send me that video too please!
Hi Angie,
Unfortunately, the email you provided here bounced back as undeliverable. Could you please email our customer service team at [email protected] so that we can make sure we are able to send over that video?
Thank you,
Gavriella
Thank you so much ! I’ve finally got the hang of it and half way through this one of a kind blanket !!! Truly one of my favorite knitting projects, ever.
Wow, that is so great to hear! So happy we were able to help!
I was so excited to be gifted the minis for this blanket for Xmas and I had to cast on right away. I did swatch and thought I had the pattern down, but at random times ( sometimes an entire color row, sometimes just an end of a row) the finished color row ends up with a ‘v’ shaped stitch instead of two stacked knit stitches. I’ve gone back and checked everything to make sure counts are right, pattern is right. Clearly I’m going wrong somewhere but I can’t find anything to try to fix to make this better! Any thoughts or has anyone else had this issue? I know it’s me and not the pattern….I just cannot for the life of me figure out what it is that is going wrong. Any help would be so appreciated? The rest of the blanket looks amazing!
Hi Brooke,
Thank you for writing in! I’m sorry this is giving you trouble. It sounds like you may be referring to the selvage edges at the beginning and end of your rows. This is meant to mimic strips of knit stitches and is just a design detail, nothing you are doing wrong. If you are in doubt, I recommend knitting a small two-color swatch using scrap yarn. This always helps me learn the repeat of stitches and see what is going on before knitting in long lengths. I hope this helps but if you need further assistance, feel free to let me know!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I received this yarn pack for a Christmas gift and love it so much! I think I have figured out the pattern but struggling with weaving in the ends. I have been practicing with other yarn but it just seems to look so bulky and not secure. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Bobbi,
I’m sorry to hear that you’re struggling with knitting in the ends! Would you be able to send a photo of your work to [email protected]? That way we can better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
I received the bundle of yarn for Christmas and love it so much. I have been practicing the pattern and think I understand that part but I’m having difficulty with the weaving in of the ends. Mine look bulky and seem so noticeable so I feel I’m doing something wrong. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!
Hi Bobbi,
What a wonderful Christmas gift! Here is a further explanation for knitting in those ends.
First, you will insert your needle into the stitch you are going to hide your tails into. Next, you will bring your tails from the back and over your right needle from right to left. Then, wrap your working yarn(not tail) around your needle as if to knit. Lastly, drop those tails before you pull your working yarn through your loop.
This should help lock in your tails and since they have been wrapped on this stitch, you can now knit your next stitch normally. You will proceed knitting these two stitches for a full inch and then you can drop your tails and complete the rest of your row!
Please let me know if this helps and please don’t hesitate to email us at [email protected] for further assistance. We want to make the process as easy and enjoyable as possible for you!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi, I’m just starting the blanket and am loving the colors, it’s been super fun to knit up. That said, I’m just finishing color 3, on to color 4–and I’m having a hard time with weaving in the ends. I’m familiar with intarsia and crossing the ends in back of the work, but it looks kind of hokey on the wrong side of the blanket. I am using both ends and crossing over, it just looks weird on the back side so I’ve now undone the weaving on each of the three colorways, trying to figure it out. Could you provide a picture of what it looks like on the finished blanket and/or provide additional information? Thanks!
Hi Mary,
Thank you for reaching out with your question! It’s so wonderful to hear you have started this blanket!
To knit in those tails you will first insert your needle into the stitch you are going to hide your tails into. Next, you will bring your tails from the back and over your right needle from right to left. Then, wrap your working yarn (not tail) around your needle as if to knit. Lastly, drop those tails to the back again before you pull your working yarn through your loop.
This should help lock in your tails and since they have been wrapped on this stitch, you can now knit your next stitch normally. You will proceed knitting these two stitches for a full inch and then you can drop your tails and complete the rest of your row!
I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any more questions and we will do our best to get you back on track!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi-
I’m still trying to work the pattern- it seems I go one step ahead and then 3 steps back. Is the pattern basically a 4 row repeat and will I be knitting 1b on a purl stitch or am I just mixing up my rows..Thanks for your help and patience!
Hi Ellen,
We are sorry this is giving you so much trouble! You are correct that the pattern is a 4-row repeat with each color being worked on either rows 1 & 2 or 3 & 4. Each time you are knitting into the stitch below, you will have just knit a wrong side row consisting of all knit stitches excluding the edges. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
got the LQ bundle for xmas and was so excited to cast on! a few colour changes in now and am not feeling confident about the tail weave in… I’m confident I’m doing it per instructions just doesn’t seem secure at all and, as others have said, also bulky and muddled in that zone – can someone please post a photo of what the wrong side is supposed to look like with the tails woven in like this? feeling a little like its being kept a secret…
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for reaching out about those ends! I will relay this message to our team. For now I am sharing a little further instruction on how you can weave in those ends as you knit. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions and we would be happy to help!
First, you will insert your needle into the stitch you are going to hide your tails into. Next, you will bring your tails from the back and over your right needle from right to left. Then, wrap your working yarn(not tail) around your needle as if to knit. Lastly, drop those tails to the back again before you pull your working yarn through your loop.
This will help lock in your tails and since they have been wrapped on this stitch, you can now knit or purl your next stitch normally. You will proceed knitting these two stitches for a full inch and then you can drop your tails and complete the rest of your row!
Once you begin to weave in the ends, they should be completely hidden in the front of your work and only slightly visible from the back.
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi
I have finally gotten the pattern down. Which was a great relief! Except frogging a k1 b stitch seems impossibly difficult and time consuming . It is not a small piece and I’m sure I’ll make more than a few mistakes. So can you suggest another pattern that I can use with my lovely colorful linen twill? Thanks so much! Ellen
Hi Ellen,
That’s a wonderful question! The Linen Quill Minis are just so fun to work with! You could check out our Joy of Color Scarf which is also designed with this bundle and is an equally pleasant project to knit. I hope this helps but let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello – I am stumped by the K1B into the purl stitch below. The explainer video shows knitting into a knit stitch, which is pretty simple. The purl seems to be a different animal altogether.
Are there any video tutorials for K1B into a purl?
Hi Peggy,
Thanks for writing in! We unfortunately don’t have a tutorial on this specific technique. To K1b into a purl stitch, you will insert your needle into the purl bump that is right below the stitch on your needle. Just as you have for the k1b into knit stitches, you will just have the extra bump on the front that then disappears when the stitch is worked. I hope this helps but if you need additional instruction, please do not hesitate to reach out to us via email at [email protected] and we would be happy to have a deeper look!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Why would you not have a tutorial on the one part that seems the most difficult?
Hi Diana,
We do have a tutorial on this now! You can find our Working into the Stitch Below tutorial here, and just scroll down to the part about working into the purl stitch below.
All the best,
Lili
That’s a great idea – the scarf is beautiful and here’s hoping I’ll have a more zen experience! Thanks again!
Hi, I am excited to get going on this but – the set up row (wrong side) says SLIP last 3 stitches so when you go back to the start the working yarn is 3 stitches in because you have slipped 3.How are you supposed to knit 3 if your working yarn is already hanging 3 stitches in?Sorry if this is a silly question but I can’t seem to get it, please advise and thanks,
Fi
Hi Fi,
Thanks for writing in! This isn’t a silly question at all. Those first 3 stitches are slipped and then knit on the opposite rows to create your i-cord edging. Slipping and then knitting allows for a smooth edge that gives the blanket a really nice finished look on both sides. I hope this helps but please let us know if you need further assistance!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I am so frustrated with this pattern. It’s really quite simple but i seem to be undoing more rows than I’m completing. For example , in a row 1 I realize that i need to do 2 kbs in order for the stitch to look right. So at some point i have done something wrong. The question is can i get back on track on row 3 without ripping out rows as the previous row is straight knits.
HELP!
Hi Nancy,
I’m so sorry to hear that this pattern is giving you trouble, and I’m eager to help you continue on in your project! You can definitely get back on track on Row 3. As you mentioned, the previous row is all knit stitches, so all you’ll need to do is focus on completing Row 3 correctly.
Since you’re dealing with so many stitches at once on each row, you could consider placing some additional stitch markers along your needles! If you place some more stitch markers at even intervals, you can double check to see if you’re still on pattern whenever you reach the next stitch marker. This helps break down the scale of the row into much more manageable segments!
I hope this helps get you on your way, but please let me know if you’re still running into issues. We’re also happy to take a look at your work directly if you’d like to send photos of it to us at [email protected]!
All the best,
Lili
This might be a stretch, but would it be possible to use Morning to make a baby blanket that uses this same stitch pattern? If so, how many should I cast on and about how many skeins would I need? I love the crocheted look but would like something that would knit up more quickly.
Hi Sara,
Thank you for writing in! We are happy to help you calculate your cast on but unfortunately, we cannot give you a great estimate on the number of skeins you need. To get your cast on number you will begin by knitting a gauge swatch. You will then measure and take your stitches per inch and multiply that number by 51 and that will give you your cast on number. One thing to keep in mind is that you will want to work over an even number of stitches so you can adjust your total up or down as needed. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi!
Would you be able to help me put together a bundle of Santolina yarn for this blanket?
Thank you
Rose
Hi Rose,
Thank you for writing in! Although we have fewer color options in Santolina, we would still be happy to provide some suggestions on a color palette for this yarn! If you let us know what color you particularly like, we can go from there to get you a perfect combination!
Hi. I like the brighter jewel tones …as close to the colors of the linen quill as possible.
Thank you
Hi Rose,
Since the fibers in Santolina are different from those in Linen Quill, colors won’t be completely identical but this palette will make a wonderful combination! We are also much more limited as Santolina has fewer colorways.
Based on your preference for jewel tones, I’m recommending a mix of the following:
Color 1: Peach Lily
Color 2: Winter Green
Color 3: Green Agave
Color 4: Purple Moor
Color 5: Golden Pollen
With these color changes, you will need 2 of each skein and one extra skein of any color you choose. I also want to mention that this pattern could be wonderful by ordering a skein of each available color for the maximum amount of color combinations. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any more questions!
Thank you so much!
love this .. but
all the photos attached are of a crochet blanket
no crochet pattern attached
yet the pattern is for a knit .
could you please explain
and show pics of what the knit blanket will look like
Hi Glenda,
Thank you so much for writing in! While we do love crochet, this pattern along with the photos included here are actually knit! The fabric gets its crochet-like characteristic from the combination of knit and knit 1 below stitches while alternating colors throughout each row. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Just completed my Incredible Blanket. This is not the first time I’ve used Linen Quill and it definitely won’t be the last. Some advice for those wanting to tackle this beauty:
1)Sort your Linen Quill into Cool and Warm colours as listed in the pattern. Use a bold pen to mark them C or W before you put them in the bags. It’s all too easy to mix them up when returning them to their respective bags. If you’re worried about the bands slipping off, you might want to punch a hole and thread your yarn end through.
2) markers are an absolute must for this project. I’d recommend using a stitch marker every 10 stitches. I didn’t do this myself until I was a few hundred rows in and my dog decided for the first time in his entire life that he needed to sleep in my knitting chair!! While this is an easy project, it’s not so easy to pick up dropped stitches. Marking every 10th stitch will help you have a better experience with this project. The rhythm of the pattern will quickly reveal itself to you and you’ll catch any mistakes before they become catastrophic. (On every Row 1 the 1st stitch of 10 will be a k1b and this row will end with k1b, k1,s1,k1. Every Row 3, the first stitch of 10 will be a purl and the row will end p1,k1,s1,k1. ) Easy-peesy ! Happy knitting.
Hi Mary,
Thank you so much for sharing all of this with other Incredible Blanket makers! We are so happy you finished your blanket and congratulations!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Oh you are so correct. I’m having a time with this project I believe because I’m new to this stitch, which is not difficult, however if you drop stitches (which I did, several times) it has been so hard for me to figure out how to pick up. I’ve restarted 3 times. It’s such a beautiful project and on the surface not difficult…but I’m on the struggle bus. Thank you for your tips. I had stitch markers at ever 50….i will try 10!
Incredible blanket: I have been trying to make a swatch but am a little confused about the slip 3 sets at the end of the row. How does this work? Thank you, Heather
Hi Heather,
Thanks for writing in! You will want to make sure to slip all stitches purlwise with the yarn in front! So instead of twisting the stitch as if to knit, you will be transferring the stitches from the left needle to the right by just inserting your needle as if you were going to purl that stitch! I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
What a joyful knit especially with the Linen Quill! Relax, enjoy the rhythm of the stitches and trust the edge stitches as they turn out great. I still do not fully understand why (even after swatching) and my brain wants to do the standard slip 3 on WS and K3 on RS i-cord edge on both sides but pattern as written works beautifully.
Here is my tip: spit splice your new skein to the old one as opposed to attempting to wrangle weaving in the ends as you go. I’ve used that technique before but it seemed more difficult with the i-cord edge because the old tail is three stitches from the edge. I just could not seem to get it wrapped over the new yarn as instructed.
To spit splice I knit to 14 stitches from the edge, measure and cut the yarn to 6” (this dimension will vary depending on your tension) and untwist the end approximately 1.25”. Grab new color, untwist 1.25”, lay the two together in opposite directions, wet and rub vigorously between your palms until felted. I usually see the two colors a bit on the 4th stitch from the edge and then it floats across the WS before you begin on the RS. With all the beautiful color happening you do not notice the splice. This is still going to take me forever! 🙂
Hi Heidi,
Thank you so much for such a kind review. We really appreciate the knowledge you have shared with others who will be venturing into this pattern!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I need some guidance please. I’ve worked the set-up row and slipped the last 3 sts. The next row, is K3, p1, then k1b. If worked this way the k1b winds up on a slipped stitch from the previous row. How do I do that n a slipped stitch? Unless I’m reading it wrong.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds as though you may have repeated “k1, slip 1” throughout the entire Set-Up Row. You actually only slip the second stitch of this row–all the rest are knit! You knit the first stitch, slip the second, and then knit every single stitch until you reach the final 3 stitches, which you slip. Then, when you begin Row 1, all the k1b stitches will be worked into stitches that were knit on the previous row!
All the best,
Lili
If you follow the pattern schematic, is there any yarn leftover? I realize that there are other factors but am wondering.
Thanks for your help.
Lynda
Hi Lynda,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern uses 3,490 yards of Linen Quill. Since the full bundle contains a total of 4,360 yards, there will be some yarn left over!
All the best,
Lili
I am not a knitter, though I am a quick learner. I would love to knit this for my daughter’s college graduation gift. My question: am I insane? Or is this easy? I looked up how to knit into the row below and that does not intimidate me. Do you have a suggestion as to a pattern (like a hotpad) that uses all these techniques and this yarn so I can be sure I’m up to the task?
Thanks!
Hi Jill,
Thanks for writing in, and that sounds like a very exciting project! Since you’re feeling confident about the k1b’s, I think you’ll have no trouble with this pattern. I would recommend practicing your knit stitches, purl stitches, and k1b’s on a separate swatch before beginning though. You can cast on any even number of stitches and follow the pattern as written, which will give you a very good sense of what knitting the full blanket will be like.
I hope this helps, and please let us know how it goes! We’re always happy to answer any questions that come up along the way.
All the best,
Lili
I am anxious to start this project . It looks wonderful . I have done a small sample for myself to understand how it works . However, I am confused. At the end of row 2 , you slip the last 3 stitches purlwise, with the yarn in front. Then at row 3 you are to begin with knit 3. But the working yarn is 3 stitches back. Do you pull it taut and and around to continue with the knit on the end coming across the wrong side of the ones you just slipped ? Or should it be held loosely and brought along ?
It would be helpful if your pattern included some close up pictures to show the detail of the stitches, both of the knit below pattern and the weaving in of the ends. It appears that there will be sufficient yarn to just leave tails on the ends and make them into tassels , perhaps with beads, at the finish if one doesn’t like the look of the woven in method.
Hi Madame,
Thank you for writing in! That is a great question. For the end of row 2, your yarn will be 3 sts back to create a multi-color i-cord edge. You don’t need to pull the yarn taut but instead knit with regular tension on the first 3 stitches. After completing a few rows, your edge will come together forming a nice clean edge! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Any chance of helping me make this out of Pocket Posy? I have two skeins of each marigold orange beetle blue pink papaya sour gooseberry winter heath and one heirloom white.
Purchased the pompom kit and yarn is too beautiful for poms!!
Hi Kris,
Thank you for your question! To modify this pattern you will want to start with a gauge swatch. You will then measure your stitches per inch and multiply that number by the desired width of your blanket and that will give you your cast on number. One thing to keep in mind is that this blanket pattern is worked over a multiple of two, so you will want to start with an even number of stitches. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello. About the incredible blanket pattern and knitting in ends? Why do you suggest knitting in the ends on the third stitch knit stitch of the first row but the second knit stitch of the third? Thank you.
Hi Chyvette,
Great question! That’s because of the location of the purled stitches on these rows. On Row 1, the purls happen on the even stitches, so you want to knit in the ends on the odd stitches. But on Row 3, the purls happen on the odd stitches, so you want to knit in the ends on the even stitches!
All the best,
Lili
I love this blanket. I am wondering if anyone has tried this pattern with with a variety of yarns; stash and remnants?
Hi Jane,
You can definitely make this pattern with scraps of fingering-weight yarns! You will needle approximately 3,490 total yards to complete this blanket and can just follow the color changes as you go but with your own color palette!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Hi wonderful PS team! Question – do you recommend I colour fix the LQ for this project to make it safe to wash? I took the time to colour fix the Posy when I knitted 2 x Muhuroosa blankets and it was well worth the effort. Just don’t want the colours in this incredible blanket to bleed into each other when washed. Thanks, Viki.
Hi Viki,
I would recommend testing the very saturated colors beforehand, so that you don’t need to go through the process unnecessarily! Just place a snippet of the yarn in a glass of water for a few hours. If the water remains clear, then you’re good to go without refixing, but if the water is tinted with the color of the yarn, then you should refix the dye for that color.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Just to make sure before I get started. Do I use one colour at a time, or two together, as with the Joy of Color scarf? (By the way, made that one for a friend and she loved it!)
Thanks.
Hi Susana,
Thank you for writing in! We are so happy to hear your friend enjoyed her new scarf! You will use one single strand of yarn at a time to knit this blanket rather than two. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any other questions along the way!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I have been experimenting with the pattern. I tried the LQ yarn which is beautiful. Unfortunately it is very fine and I am slowly loosing my eyesight. I am doubling down and ordering another LQ bundle. I will then knit with 2 strands on larger needles.
While I patiently wait for my second bundle to arrive in Australia, I have decided to knit an experimental version of the blanket in some scrap 8ply (dk) yarn that I have lying around. It will be a patchwork of mainly 100% local wool (both twisted and crepe textures). I have different amounts of each colour.
It will be an adventure, many less colours but more texture. I shall select the colours randomly with the only criteria being that none colour can be used next to itself.
Hi,
I am very excited to make this blanket. I would like it to be longer, at least 60 inches. How do I calculate that, how much more yarn I would need?
Thank you for your kind and cheerful help!
Kat
Hi Katherine,
Thank you for writing in! Modifying the size of this blanket can be a little tricky but here is how you can do it! You will want to first knit up a gauge swatch in pattern with the yarn and needles you plan to use. Then, weigh the swatch and calculate the yardage based on the specifications of that yarn. You can then use the yardage of the swatch to create a ratio with the area of the swatch and the area of the desired size of your blanket and solve for the yardage of the blanket! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
the patter says “see notes”. I find no notes. Isa there a way to print the pattern? My bundle arrives today!! 🙂
Hi LS,
Thank you for writing in! You will find the NOTES section right below the SIZE and GAUGE sections. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
You can follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop-down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%. You can also hover your mouse over any portions of the pattern you wish to delete, and click the trash can icon that appears. Then, you can click “Print” or “PDF” along the top left of the pattern preview box to print or save the pattern! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thank you so much!!
Hi Gavriella – thank you for all your helpful answers and thanks to all the others with helpful tips…
I have just given this kit to my husband for his birthday – I am knitting it for him and I don’t knit enough to know how this would work out – he would like the striping to be “wider” – so I can I just use up one ball at a time before switching the colour ? I can’t visualize how the end product would like….
Any suggestions? thanks very much!
Lisa from Thornbury, Ontario, Canada!
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for writing in and I think that sounds like a wonderful idea! I would try out your stripe pattern over a small swatch and see how you like the look. I would recommend knitting a full repeat of the 4 rows (rows 1-4) for a thicker stripe. You could also try out a 6 or 8 row stripe! Since the pattern is ultimately a 2 row repeat, any even number of rows will work just fine for your blanket. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other question!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Sadness! yarn is so tiny and knit one below is impossible to see
Not something for someone relatively new to knitting….
Would take frustrating months
Looks beautiful in the photo though……
Hi Amanda,
Thank you for writing in and we are so happy this pattern caught your eye! Although this design uses fingering-weight yarn, we’d love to help answer any questions along the way to help you get through your project. We currently offer many tutorials and even have a few for this specific pattern coming out very soon. If you decide to give this pattern a try, please do not hesitate to ask us any questions that arise. We are always available 7 days a week to assist at [email protected] as well as through one of our free 1-on-1 zoom sessions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Do you recommend pulling the yarn from the centers of the balls?
Hi Mommo,
We recommend pulling from the outside of the ball so that your yarn doesn’t tangle on itself. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I am in love with the yarn!!! But I have a huge problem and need help please. With my arthritic hands, I had difficulty doing the pattern, so I have done the afghan completely in garter stitch–it is beautiful. Apparently I casted on more stitches than I needed, and my afghan now measures about 61″ X 24″. Therefore, I am almost out of yarn. I have only 4 left of each warm and each cool colors. So, do I order another full kit–which I’m willing to do–or choose individual colors? The full colors I have left weigh 11-13 grams, and the others 7 grams, not enough for 4 rows. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks!!!
Hi Jan,
Depending how on much yarn you need per row, I think ordering the colors individually would be a great idea! Alternatively you could switch up the order to use less colors if you’d like. Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
In order to keep the integrity of the blanket, I think I need to order another entire kit of the minis. I was sent a 20% off coupon with my first order. I assume I can use that this time–correct?
Thanks for your help.
Jan
You definitely can use your coupon on this bundle!
I just tried to enter my code and it would not take it. I hate to put it here for all to see. What do you suggest?
I’m so sorry to hear that you’re running into difficulty applying your discount code! There are a few things that might be causing it not to work:
First, the code needs to be entered into the Discount Code section, and not the Gift Card section! That’s something that has caught other people off-guard, so I want to make sure you’re entering it in the correct spot. Next, the code is case sensitive, so the best way to enter it is by copying and pasting it! I would also recommend checking for extra spaces or characters before or after the code, since these will also cause it not to work. Also, it only applies to regularly-priced Purl Soho-brand items, so anything that’s already on sale or from a third-party company will not be able to get the discount!
If you’re still having trouble getting the code to work, would you be able to send over a screenshot of your checkout page after you try to apply the code to [email protected]? We are better equipped to assist with ordering via email and this will allow us to troubleshoot further.
Hi Gavriella.
I sent my screen shot of my checkout page to the customer service address you gave me. Did you receive it? Did this help with my issue? I hope so. I would very much like to order my yarn as soon as possible!! Thanks so much.
Jan
Hi Jan,
Could you please let us know if you have received our email? I’d recommend checking your spam and promotions folders as well just in case. We did receive your email and have included some additional information in our reply.
Thank you Gabriella. Outside it is.
You are very welcome! Please let us know if there is anything else we can help with along the way!
More confusion on my part. I finished the setup row, ending with 3 slip stitches. When I turn my work to do row 1, I see 3 slipped sts then the working yarn coming towards me (on the right side) from the knit st in the previous row. I am now supposed to knit 3. How and where do I get that working yarn to the back to begin knitting? Pull it across the 3 slipped stitches from the previous row, around the end then work with it? Slip the 3 sts to right needle, move working yarn to the back, return them to left needle then knit those first 3 sts? I’ll run into a similar problem when starting the new yarn after row 2: the ”old yarn” will be on the front side. How do I get it to the back anchor it with the new yarn? I am really missing something here in the directions. Help!
Hi Mommo,
When you slip stitches, you will want to make sure your working yarn is always in the front unless otherwise noted in the pattern. This will ensure your working yarn is in the back after you turn to begin the next row. I hope this helps!
Happy knititng,
Gavriella
Thank you.
I missed that fact in the notes. I find your light gray font color very hard to read. I need more contrast. I’m sure there are other older knitters who are in the same boat.
Hi Mommo,
Thank you for sharing this! It’s highly concerning that the text is showing up as light gray on your end and we’d love to help trouble shoot theis issue. Could you please send in a screen shot to us at [email protected]? The text should be a solid black so we’d like to help get this corrected for you immediately as we understand how hard that must be to read for anyone. I will keep an eye out for your reply!
All the best,
Gavriella
Currently working on the blanket. Wonderful yarn and pattern.
My question is on the knitting in the ends….so far, so good, do it over the first 20 st. I leave more than 2 inches of yarn, just to make it easier to handle the yarn. So I have quite a bit of yarn to trim. In the pattern, it says to wait until washed, but wonder if I should trim it before that point, since I have about 1 inch tail. Obviously, looking for the easiest solution. Thanks.
Hi Barbara,
Thank you for writing in! When switching colors, we recommend leaving just two inches for your tails and then using that to knit in on the wrong side of your work. Since it sounds like you have left tails a bit longer, you should be able to trim them with no issue after blocking. I’d suggest cutting all end after the blanket has fully dried just to make sure nothing comes undone. This will also give your fabric a little time to better adhere to those woven in ends. I hope this help!
Happy knitting,
Gavriellla
Hi, I am really excited to make this blanket but I’m stuck on the swatch! I’m not seeing any videos describing how to K1B after long tail cast on? I’ve searched and searched with no luck. Any help would be so appreciated!
Hi Joslyn,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend working the Set-Up Row before beginning the stitch pattern. You can find these instructions in the main pattern, and I’ll also copy them out here for quick reference:
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 1 (see Notes), k1, slip 1, knit to last 3 stitches, slip 3.
This way, you can begin Row 1 (right side) on the right side of the swatch!
All the best,
Lili
In order to keep track of all the yarn, I loosely sorted by color families and stashed each group in a Ziplock bag. I wanted to follow your color scheme so I went row by row and wrote on the labels the row that yarn was used. So when I go start a row with say blue blue, I justly open the bag with the blue skeins and find the one with the row number I’m on. It seems to be working quite well for me. I am pulling the yarn from the center so the labels stay intact, at least for now.
Hi Mommo,
That’s a great strategy for organizing the skeins for this project! Thank you for sharing, and wishing you all the happy knitting!
All the best,
Cat
I am currently making this and am loving it. I am spit splicing the colors together as I hate weaving in ends. When there are 12 stitches left in a row 2 or 4, I cut the strand at about 7 1/2 inches and then spit splice it to the next color. It looks great!
Was chugging along well on this project but seem to have made a mistake sometimes in the last couple rows. I am seriously struggling to rip back, and would like to just put in a lifeline and rip all the way back to the last place it looks right. But ….I cannot figure out how to put a lifeline into this stitch properly. Does anyone have any hints for me on this or on how to fix mistakes in this pattern? I have been putting off trying to fix it for months now because I don’t know what to do….
Hi Brooke,
Thanks for writing in! Honestly, putting a lifeline in this stitch is pretty difficult and may not be worth the trouble. I would recommend just unknitting each stitch if the mistake isn’t too far back, but also the good thing about Linen Quill is that it’s very “grippy,” so you could just unravel and if you’re careful, the stitches won’t drop further down!
All the best,
Lili
I LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE this blanket. I am however struggling with the flipping of the work and understanding how to have the edges neat. Could you post a video?
Transitions from Row 1 to Row 2 and Row 3 to Row 4.
I watched the Weaving in the Ends, but it is every flip that seems to be a mess on my practice swatch.
Did I mention how much I love this pattern and looking forward to the randomness of the colors! 🙂
Hi Kristen,
Thanks for writing in! Would you mind sending a photo of your swatch to [email protected]? That way we can better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Would a Russian join work in this pattern? Thanks!
Hi Lynn,
You could definitely give that a try! We didn’t use this technique in this pattern but we encourage you to give it a go!
All the best,
Gavriella
I’m really enjoying knitting this pattern, but I’m confused about the back. I am knitting in the ends, but the fray ends still stick out. What happens to those ends? I’m concerned that they may come out and they are also very noticeable.
Hi Gayle,
You can definitely trim the ends that are more noticeable or even felt them to the back side of your work. Just be careful to not poke through to the right side of your fabric if you decide to felt them. I hope this helps!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Hi
I LOVE this pattern and received my wool last week. I have now made samples with a 3.5 mm circular needle (that gave me 22 stiches wide)
Then I tried a 3 mm needle – that gave me 24 stitches wide and 25 rows.
Finally I tried a 2.5 mm needle which gave me 26 stiches wide but only 30 rows!! If I go with the 2.5 mm needle the width of the blanket will be fine, but I will be missing quite a lot in the lenght. Do you think there will be enough yarn in total to be able for me to make a 51 x 51 inches blanket? Or do you have another suggestion for me to solve the problem?
Kind regards Helle
Hi Helle,
We are thrilled to hear you are beginning this project! Could you let me know if you were able to achieve gauge on your blocked gauge swatch? This could help me better visualize the issue you are having. Most times blocking your swatch will help you achieve both stitch and row gauge as the stitches bloom.
If you are getting less stitches per 4 inches, you will need to size down on your needles. If you are getting more stitches, you will need to size up! You can also check out our quick gauge tutorial for a more in-depth look on how gauge can effect your project here. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi Gavriella,
Thanks a lot for your fast reply. I did not block the samples I made! So should I make all the samples once more (I did not keep them) and then Block them all?
Kind regards Helle
Hi Helle,
You are very welcome! I would recommend knitting a swatch with the size you got closest to gauge with and then block your swatch from there.
OK thanks – I will try that then 🙂
Kind regards Helle
PSA for anyone who loves this blanket but feels intimidated by the pattern/previous comments. I almost didn’t give this one a try based on the voiced struggles of others and an impending fear of the tricky stitch, but after giving it a chance, I have zero regrets. The stitch isn’t nearly as tedious as it may seem at first and you easily get in the rhythm after your first couple rows. So far, it feels very similar to a stockinette stitch and easy to pick up once you master it. I love love love knitting this blanket so far- the colors are divine and the pattern is actually very fun and engaging but not so complicated that you constantly have to stare at the pattern. Also wanted to note that it isn’t straining to see the stitches (even if you prefer tighter stitches like me), so you shouldn’t need to worry about accidentally knitting into the wrong stitch once you invariably become an expert at it . Tip: If you’re having trouble learning the stitch at first, I recommend knitting a few garter stitch rows before you try to knit below. It is so much easier to see and understand once you have at least three rows already on your needle before you one hundred percent understand how to knit the below stitch. On your first and second row, it can still be difficult to discern the correct placement of the below stitch, especially if you are trying to learn it for the first time. After you get past the first color, it should be an easy breezy fun time without any confusion. The purl soho tutorial videos are also lifesavers and I recommend watching them while you practice along. Tip for weaving in ends: I saw some people concerned about an apparent “bulkiness” and color show-through they experienced after weaving, and I thought that could have been caused by accidentally knitting in your ends instead of weaving them. That would cause the bulkiness and color showing through, so make sure you’re not wrapping the ends around your needle while weaving in. If you do it correctly, you can’t even feel a difference, and the “wrong” color won’t show through on the right side. Hope this helps and pushes anyone who sees this to try this pattern if they were hesitant at first. Side note: The yarn feels lovely also, and the softness of the alpaca content doesn’t get lost in the wool. Since it has a slight halo, it could be a bit ticklish to some, but I don’t find it scratchy or uncomfortable at all.
Hi Aspen,
This is such a great review and we are so thankful you shared such detailed insight of the pattern for other knitters who may be struggling with the process. We can’t thank you enough for taking the time to write this all out and we just KNOW others will find your tips and experience helpful!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi. Is there a way to knit a blanket with all of the colors, but just knit it or knit/purl somehow? We do a lot of car driving and I need something very simple. If so, what pattern would it be? Thanks
Hi Janice,
You could totally do that! I would recommend using seed stitch instead. That’s a nice stitch for a blanket because it’s very squishy, and it doesn’t curl at all!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I purchased the 20 mini bundle in BeachWalk and I think I was intending to make the Quaking Aspen Wrap, I honestly don’t remember it was an impulse purchase. Now I see this Incredible Blanket, and am thinking of perhaps making this in a wrap size with the 20 bundle.
Would this work with a 20 mini bundle? And if so, how would it affect the color changes? Would I knit them for more rows before I change colors (making thicker stripes) or would you not need to do this?
I like the look of the finished knit in this blanket…
Thanks so much.
Kate
Hi Kate,
That’s a wonderful idea! You could still work 2-row stripes just like the pattern if you like that look, but you can also vary the widths of the stripes if you want. The only thing you’ll need to change is the cast-on number so that you can make it wrap-shaped, rather than blanket-shaped. This pattern works over any even number of stitches!
All the best,
Lili
Hi
Loving this pattern! However, to make it bigger I would like to incorporate full skeins. How do I do this without cutting my yarn after rows 2 and 4? How do I continue with knit 3 on row 3 after slipping 3 on row 2? My working yarn is already 3 stitches in. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Hi Deanna,
Thank you for writing in! You can just carry up your yarn if you’d like! I recommend practicing over a small swatch just to be happy you are happy with the result. To answer your last question, the yarn will always be 3 stitches in to help create the neat icord edging. I hope this helps clarify!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi! I’m about to start this beautiful project but am a little confused by the instruction to slip (purlwise with yarn in front) the last three stitches of the wrong-side rows. When the work is turned to start the right side, do you wrap the working yarn around the slipped stitches before starting that row? I haven’t encountered this before. Would appreciate any advice!
Hi Carrie,
Thank you for asking! After slipping those stitches, you will work the first 3 stitches with the yarn in the same location you left it on the previous row. This will help give you a nice neat edge!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello, I want to start this pattern but have never made a gauge swatch before. I have read through your post about making a gauge but I still don’t feel like it helps with this project since it seems like maybe you should purl the swatch so you can gauge the stitch pattern. How do I make one for this specific project?
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for writing in! To knit a gauge swatch in this stitch pattern, you can follow the pattern exactly as written, just with a smaller number of stitches. This pattern works over any even number of stitches, so I’d recommend casting on 38 stitches to make an approximately 6 x 6-inch swatch!
All the best,
Lili
I have struggled with this project …I did multiple starts and rip outs …..almost abandoning and going to just a garter stitch but the addition of markers every 10 stitches has saved me ! It is too easy to add unwanted stitches….when doing the stitch below I have found one must be careful to pull the right needle out of the stitch fully and let the lagging part of the above stitch fall off the left needle completely. Otherwise inadvertently a new stitch is added. This happened to me several times in my first few rows. I have decided to soldier on and leave the later few mistakes and consider “ slight imperfections in the work are the nature of true artisanal work and to be expected “ . The pattern rows must be worked slowly and with attention . Using the markers helps to catch errors quickly. I wish you had put that suggestion in your notes in the beginning so I could have avoided my initial frustrations. Now I am enjoying the work and the yarn is lovely.
Hi Madame DeFarge,
We’re so happy that you found stitch markers to be helpful in this project! We’re so glad you were able to continue on in this pattern and are very happy you’re enjoying this blanket and working with Linen Quill!
Al the best,
Lili
Hello! I knitted your Incredible blanket to use up a massive stash of DK yarn with similar colours to your suggested palette (I just adjusted the gauge and number of stitches) and I love it. However, after I finished the blanket I noticed a mistake I made in an early row so made the even bigger mistake of unpicking it to fix. Now I cannot figure out how to graft the two pieces together to maintain the pattern. I keep trying new techniques but nothing looks right. Can you offer any advice on how I could graft the pieces together? I’m so annoyed with myself for not leaving it alone with a minor imperfection!
Hi Elaine,
I’m so sorry that you’re running into trouble putting your project back together! Would you mind sending photos of your work to us directly at [email protected]? This sounds like something that we’ll need to look at directly to figure out a solution for!
All the best,
Lili
This Incredible Blanket took me a year to make and I’m totally stumped by the cast off row.
The instructions say to bind off in the pattern for row 1. Are you supposed to continue with the color that was used for row 4? I changed color and the bind off looks terrible. HELP.
Have to admit that for the first half, it was a real love hate relationship. The trickiest part of the whole process was trying to correct errors in row 1 or 3. Finally had a pro knitter make a little video of how to frog back the rows
Hi Jane,
We bound off with the same color we used for the previous two rows! That will end up looking neater than if you change color for the bind-off (and it will better match the beginning of the blanket, since you cast on in the same color you used for the Set-Up Row, as well as Rows 1 and 2). I hope this helps you finish up your project!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so so much for your prompt response. I’m going to crochet 1 row on the top, block it and shock everyone I know my ah ha moment.
Good morning to you,
I really love this pattern and Linen Quill seems like a wonderful yarn but since I would like to make it as a departure gift for my son, I was wondering if you had a washable yarn suggestion for it… I was thinking maybe Cotton Pure or Santolina?
Your amazing experience would be very helpful.
Thank you so much
Hi Annie,
What a wonderful idea! I would recommend Santolina or Oleander as wonderful machine washable alternatives. You can definitely use Cotton Pure as well but you will want to make sure to go up a needle size or two!
All the best,
Gavriella
Beautiful yarn, but I would like to double it for more heft.
What size needle should I use? Also, in one of the posts you said to make a swatch, see how many stitches to the inch and multiply by 51…why can’t I just use the 51 cast on? I want to make it thicker, but not larger.
Thanks,
Ellen
Hi Ellen,
That sounds like a great idea! I’d recommend a size 6 or 7 needle. Since using your yarn held double will alter your gauge, it’s always best to make a gauge swatch so you know how your modification will alter your pattern. Once you knit and block your swatch, you will count your stitches per inch and multiply that number by the desired size of 51 inches.
I hope this helps answer your questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Is there enough yarn to make the gauge and then make the blanket without unraveling the gauge?
Hi Jilly,
That is a great question and the answer is yes! Since this pattern uses about 3490 yards, you will have a bit over 800 yards left. The swatch is also great practice for getting the stitch down before starting on your larger project.
Happy making!
Gavriella
I’m on color 6 changing to 7. I’ve noticed that I dropped or doubled on a stitch somewhere and have 331 stitches. I have tried to locate it to no avail. I’ve tried unknitting the row but it’s a mess when I get to the k1b stitches. I tried adding one in but it appears to shift the pattern.
What’s the best way to proceed?
In looking thru comments, I will add markers once I’m straightened out and can continue.
Hi Susan,
I’m so sorry that you’ve run into this problem, and I’m happy to help you move forward in your project! I would recommend knitting two stitches together on the next row so that you get back to an even number stitch count. This pattern works over any even number of stitches, so 330 stitches will work just as well as 332 stitches, and the yarn is so thin that you won’t be able to notice the slight difference in width!
All the best,
Lili
I love the idea of this blanket!!! I cannot seem to weave in the ends of all the colors without it looking pretty awful on the side where I am switching. Any tips?
Hi Cary,
I’m so sorry that your blanket isn’t turning out completely as expected! Would you mind sending a photo of your woven-in ends to us directly at [email protected]? That way we can better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I’m considering following a “rainbow” colour scheme rather than alternating cool and warm randomly every two rows. With that in mind, I’m planning on wider stripes. How many rows does a skein make, if I use up each colour as I go (assuming I match gauge). I will do a swatch to make sure I like the effect but wondering how to figure out how many rows I can do for each colour so that the pattern works re expected size. Hope that makes sense!
Hi Rebecca,
That’s such a fun idea for this pattern! Each row requires approximately 6.2 yards of yarn, so you should be able to get about 17 or 18 rows per mini skein!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, Lili!