Drift Vest In Lovebird
A super simple knit and a throw-it-on-over-everything place in your wardrobe, our Drift Vest is as easy as floating with the tide!
This approachable knit has an up-the-back, over-the-shoulders, down-the-front construction. We added a few short rows for the back shoulder shaping and attached I-cord edgings for a smart finish. Straightforward and simple, you get the drift!
Lovely in its simplicity, the Drift Vest gets its charisma from our beautiful Lovebird and its spectacular color. A superwash merino, lovingly spun and hand-dyed by our friends at Manos del Uruguay, Lovebird on the needles brings joy to the knitting!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Originally designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoDriftVest and #PurlSohoLovebird. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 5 (6, 7, 7) (8, 8, 9) (10, 10, 11) skeins of Purl Soho + Manos del Uruguay’s Lovebird, 100% superwash merino wool. Each skein is approximately 75-85 yards/ 100-110 grams; approximately 410 (440, 505, 540) (615, 656, 700) (755, 810, 860) yards required. We used the color Agate.
- US 11 (8mm), 24- or 32-inch circular needles
- Two US 11 double pointed needles
- Two locking markers or scrap yarn
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
NOTE: Because this yarn is hand spun in small batches, yardages may vary between skeins. You will probably get away with the recommended skein counts, but buying an extra skein would assure you definitely have enough yarn. If you don’t end up needing it, you can return unwound yarn for a refund within 30 days of purchase, or within 6 months, for store credit. Our Return Policy has all the details!
GAUGE
11¼ stitches and 15 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
37 (39¾, 42¾, 45½) (48¼, 51¼, 54) (57, 59¾, 62½)
To fit actual chest circumference of 33–36 (36–39, 39–42, 42–45) (45–48, 48–51, 51–54) (54–57, 57–60, 60–63) inches, with 1–4 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 37 (39¾, 42¾, 45½) (48¼, 51¼, 54) (57, 59¾, 62½) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 20¼ (20½, 22, 22¼) (24, 24¼, 24½) (25, 25½, 26) inches
- Finished Length of Armhole: 7½ (7¾, 8¼, 8½) (9, 9¼, 9½) (10, 10½, 11) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 12 (12, 13, 13) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) inches
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 42¾ inches, modeled with 2¾ inch of ease.
NOTES
CONSTRUCTION
You will knit this vest flat, beginning at lower edge of Back and working to Shoulders. You will work over each Shoulder to work Right and Left Fronts separately down to lower Front edges. You will seam the sides together, then work an Attached I-Cord around all edges.
RIGHT + WRONG SIDE
This piece is worked in reverse stockinette stitch. This means that the purl side of the fabric is the right side, and the knit side of the fabric is the wrong side.
DECREASES
K3TOG (KNIT THREE TOGETHER)
Insert right needle into next three stitches and knit them together. [2 stitches decreased]
SLIP, SLIP, SLIP, KNIT
Slip 3 stitches knitwise one at a time, insert left needle into front of slipped stitches, knit together. [2 stitches decreased]
SHORT ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)
NOTE: For more help with short rows, visit our Short Row Tutorial, but keep in mind that this pattern is worked in reverse stockinette stitch rather than in the tutorial’s stockinette stitch, so the right and wrong sides are flipped.
ON THE RIGHT SIDE (PURL) SIDE
Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
ON THE WRONG (KNIT) SIDE
Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so right side is facing you.
WORKING WRAPPED STITCH WITH ITS WRAP
ON THE RIGHT SIDE (PURL) SIDE
Work to wrapped stitch, slip wrapped stitch to right needle, lift front of wrap and place it on right needle next to wrapped stitch, insert left needle through front of wrap and wrapped stitch and purl them together.
ON THE WRONG (KNIT) SIDE
Work to wrapped stitch, lift back of wrap and place it on left needle next to wrapped stitch, then knit wrap together with wrapped stitch.
PATTERN
BACK
BEGIN AT BOTTOM EDGE
Cast 54 (58, 62, 66) (70, 74, 78) (82, 86, 90) stitches onto circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures approximately 12 (12, 13, 13) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 1.
SHAPE ARMHOLES
Row 1 (right side): K1, slip slip slip knit (see Notes), purl to last 4 stitches, knit 3 together (see Notes), k1. [4 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): P1, purl 2 together, knit to last 3 stitches, slip slip purl, p1. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 zero (0, 0, 0) (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) more time(s). [48 (52, 56, 60) (58, 62, 60) (64, 68, 72) stitches remain]
Next Row (right side): K1, slip slip knit, purl to last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Next Row (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat last two rows 4 (5, 6, 7) (5, 6, 5) (6, 6, 7) more time(s). [38 (40, 42, 44) (46, 48, 48) (50, 54, 56) stitches]
CONTINUE WORKING BACK
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 7½ (7¾, 8¼, 8½) (9, 9¼, 9 ½) (10, 10½, 11) inches from beginning of Armhole shaping, ending with Row 1.
SHAPE SHOULDERS
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row. For extra help, see the Notes section.
Short Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 4 (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6) (6, 6, 6) stitches, wrap and turn (wrp-t, see Notes).
Short Row 2 (right side): Purl to last 4 (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6) (6, 6, 6) stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to last 8 (8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10) (10, 10, 10) stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to last 8 (8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10) (10, 10, 10) stitches, wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to last 2 stitches, working wrapped stitches with their wraps so that the wraps fall to the wrong (knit) side of the fabric (see Notes), p2.
Next Row (right side): K2, p9 (10, 10, 11) (11, 12, 12) (13, 15, 15), place previous 11 (12, 12, 13) (13, 14, 14) (15, 17, 17) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Front, bind off following 16 (16, 18, 18) (20, 20, 20) (20, 20, 22) stitches knitwise for Back Neck, purl to last 2 stitches, working wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them, k2. [22 (24, 24, 26) (26, 28, 28) (30, 34, 34) total stitches: 11 (12, 12, 13) (13, 14, 14) (15, 17, 17) stitches on hold for Right Front, 11 (12, 12, 13) (13, 14, 14) (15, 17, 17) stitches on needles for Left Front]
Place a locking marker or piece of scrap yarn in the last row at each Armhole edge to use as a reference point later.
FRONTS
LEFT FRONT
WORK SHOULDER EVEN
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
SHAPE NECKLINE
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, make 1 left (m1L) k2. [1 stitch increased]
Row 2 (right side): Purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2) more time(s). [13 (14, 15, 16) (16, 17, 17) (18, 20, 20) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): P2, knit to end of row, turn work so that right (purl) side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6) (7, 7, 7) (7, 7, 8) stitches. [19 (20, 21, 22) (23, 24, 24) (25, 27, 28) stitches]
CONTINUE
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 4½ (4¼, 4¼, 4) (5, 4¾, 5) (5, 5½, 5½) inches from marker at Shoulder, ending with Row 1. Remove marker.
SHAPE ARMHOLE
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, make 1 right (m1R), knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [1 stitch increased]
Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three (4, 5, 6) (4, 5, 4) (5, 5, 6) more times, then Repeat Row 1 once more. [24 (26, 28, 30) (29, 31, 30) (32, 34, 36) stitches]
Next Row (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, make 1 purlwise right, k2. [1 stitch increased]
Next Row (wrong side): P2, m1R, k1, m1R, knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [2 stitches increased]
Repeat last 2 rows 0 (0, 0, 0) (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) more time(s). [27 (29, 31, 33) (35, 37, 39) (41, 43, 45) stitches]
CONTINUE
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 12 (12, 13, 13) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) inches from end of Armhole shaping, ending with Row 2.
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
RIGHT FRONT
WORK SHOULDER EVEN
Return 11 (12, 12, 13) (13, 14, 14) (15, 17, 17) on-hold Right Shoulder stitches to needles, and with wrong side facing you, rejoin yarn.
Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
SHAPE NECKLINE
Row 1 (wrong side): K2, m1R, knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [1 stitch increased]
Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2) more time(s). [13 (14, 15, 16) (16, 17, 17) (18, 20, 20) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): Cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6) (7, 7, 7) (7, 7, 8) stitches, working across newly cast-on stitches first, p2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [19 (20, 21, 22) (23, 24, 24) (25, 27, 28) stitches]
CONTINUE
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 4½ (4¼, 4¼, 4) (5, 4¾, 5) (5, 5½, 5½) inches from marker at Shoulder, ending with Row 1. Remove marker.
SHAPE ARMHOLE
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, m1L, p2. [1 stitch increased]
Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three (4, 5, 6) (4, 5, 4) (5, 5, 6) more times, then Repeat Row 1 once more. [24 (26, 28, 30) (29, 31, 30) (32, 34, 36) stitches]
Next Row (right side): K2, make 1 purlwise left, purl to last 2 stitches, k2. [1 stitch increased]
Next Row (wrong side): P2, knit to last 3 stitches, m1L, k1, m1L, p2. [2 stitches increased]
Repeat the last 2 rows 0 (0, 0, 0) (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) more time(s). [27 (29, 31, 33) (35, 37, 39) stitches]
CONTINUE
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 12 (12, 13, 13) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) inches from end of Armhole shaping, ending with a wrong-side row.
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
FINISHING
SIDES
Fold the piece in half at the Shoulders so that the wrong (knit) sides are together and the right (purl) side is facing out. Using Mattress Stitch, seam along knit selvage stitches at each side, working from bottom edge to Underarm.
BODY EDGING
Turn the piece inside out so that the wrong (knit) side is facing you. Cast 2 stitches onto a double pointed needle (for the neatest possible finishing, use a Provisional Cast-On). Do not turn. Slide the stitches to the other end of the needle.
Starting at the right side seam (as you are wearing the piece), work an Attached I-Cord along the front bottom edge as follows: *Knit 1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, bring yarn forward to work a yarn over (yo), pick up and knit 1 stitch from edge (3 stitches on needle), pass slipped stitch and yo over picked-up stitch and off right needle, then without turning, slide stitches to other end of needle, repeat from * along bottom edge to corner, picking up 1 stitch for each of the bound-off stitches.
Continue to work an Attached I-cord up the cardigan opening, now picking up 3 stitches for every 4 rows as you go. Continue as established around the Neckline, down the other side of the cardigan opening, and around the bottom edge to where you began.
If you used a Provisional Cast-On, join the beginning and end of the I-cord with the Kitchener Stitch. If you just cast on normally, bind off the I-cord stitches and sew the beginning and end together.
ARMHOLE EDGINGS
Cast 2 stitches onto a double pointed needle and with piece still inside out and beginning at center of Underarm, work an Attached I-Cord around Armhole, picking up 3 stitches for every 4 rows and working up one side, over the Shoulder, and down the other side back to where you began. Join ends of I-cord together, as for Body Edging.
Repeat for other Armhole.
ENDS + BLOCKING
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I love this vest. I wish you had it in girls’ sizes. My granddaughters age, 7,9, and 11 would love it. Their mom would too! Any chance girls’ sizes could become available?
Thank you.
Hi Joan,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you like this pattern! At this time we don’t offer this pattern in child sizes but thank you so much for expressing your interest, I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I never knit anything that requires sewing pieces together. Is there any way to knit this in one piece, no sewing?
Thanks!
Hi Molly,
Thanks for reaching out. Adjusting this pattern so that it’s seamless would take a lot of modifications, which we unfortunately don’t have the time and resources to do at the moment! I hope you can understand.
I also wanted to let you know of a wonderful tutorial we have called Mattress Stitch, which will show you exactly how to sew the sides of this vest together! Since you’re not familiar with this technique yet, I would highly recommend looking over this tutorial. It may just inspire you to try your first pattern that requires sewing!
All the best,
Lili
Is there a modification to the pattern that can be made along the bottom and edges of the vest to avoid the need for an i-cord? I would prefer not to have the bulkiness thar the I-cord creates.
Thank you!
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in. I would suggest working a single crochet border along the edges instead of an i-cord! This style of edge will definitely be less bulky. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m confused. Why is there several sets of sizes, amounts to buy, etc. ? Is this made with three different types of yarn?
Hi Marcia,
Thanks for reaching out! There is one yarn used for this pattern but we offer the pattern in many sizes and the sizes directly coordinate with the quantities of yarn needed. For example, the sizes are 37 (39¾, 42¾, 45½) (48¼, 51¼, 54) (57, 59¾, 62½) and the skeins needed for each size are 5 (6, 7, 7) (8, 8, 9) (10, 10, 11) skeins of Purl Soho + Manos del Uruguay’s Lovebird. So if you are making the size 37 you need 5 skeins, if you are making the size 42¾ you need 7 skeins, or if you are making the size 59¾ you will need 10 skeins of Lovebird!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Can you suggest another yarn for this vest? I would also like to see this pattern in children’s sizes. Thank you.
Hi Betsy,
Thanks for reaching out. I would recommend using Super Soft Merino in place of Lovebird! As always, we recommend making a gauge swatch before starting a project to be sure you’re working with the right needles, especially when substituting yarns. If this is daunting, I’d recommend checking out a tutorial called All About Gauge, which covers some incredibly helpful information!
And thank you for your suggestion about offering this pattern in kids sizes. While we do not have any plans to do so as of yet, I will definitely pass along your idea for future consideration!
All the best,
Lili
I am trying to choose between making the Classic Knit Jacket and hoping to leave the sleeves off – and the Drift Vest. I am intimidated by doing short rows – and doing them on the reverse side no less! Which would you think would be easier for a newer knitter?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in. I think that the Classic Knit Jacket (without sleeves) might be the better choice for you as a newer knitter! This is mainly because the Drift Vest incorporates a more involved stitch pattern in addition to the shaping of the garment. I think you’ll have more fun with the Classic Knit Jacket!
I’d also highly recommend checking out our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial if that technique is feeling daunting! I learned how to do short rows from this tutorial myself, and I often refer back to it if I need clarification on anything. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! I appreciate the support 🙂
I do not see any direction to place a shoulder marker until the direction to measure from it in the “continue” section of the left front section. Am I missing it?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in! The very end of the SHAPE SHOULDERS section reads: “Place a locking marker or piece of scrap yarn in the last row at each Armhole edge to use as a reference point later.” Those markers are the shoulder markers that are referenced later on! Hope this helps clear things up.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you- got it!
Can this pattern be worked so the knit side is the right side and the purl side is the inside?
Hi Judy,
Thanks for reaching out! You can absolutely wear the Drift Vest with the stockinette-side showing! On the last step when you are ready to seam your vest together, you can seam the panels together using mattress stitch with the stockinette sides touching.
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Thank you so much. This is a great pattern.
Hi, I am a begginer knitter and only have straight needles at hand. Can I knit this pattern? Thank you (:
Hi Ariel
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid that straight needles probably won’t work for this pattern. You’ll be working with a lot of stitches at once, so the width will be too long for the needles, and the stitches will be at risk of falling off. I’d recommend investing in a pair of circular needles–they’ll be super useful for all sorts of future projects too!
All the best,
Lili
I am using the pattern’s original version and am ready to stitch the sides of the vest. I have looked at the tutorial for mattress stitch, but I’m still confused about where to place my needle. Do I pick up the bar between the outer K stitch and the second one? Is the final seam two K stitches on the purl (right) side?
Hi Nancy,
Your instincts are totally correct! You’ll insert your needle upwards through the bar between the first and second knit stitch on each row, and as a result, the seam on the inside will look like two knit stitches next to each other on the right side.
All the best,
Lili