A super simple knit and a throw-it-on-over-everything place in your wardrobe, our Drift Vest is as easy as floating with the tide!

Drift Vest In Lovebird | Purl Soho

This approachable knit has an up-the-back, over-the-shoulders, down-the-front construction. We added a few short rows for the back shoulder shaping and attached I-cord edgings for a smart finish. Straightforward and simple, you get the drift!

Drift Vest In Lovebird | Purl Soho

Lovely in its simplicity, the Drift Vest gets its charisma from our beautiful Lovebird and its spectacular color. A superwash merino, lovingly spun and hand-dyed by our friends at Manos del Uruguay, Lovebird on the needles brings joy to the knitting!

Drift Vest In Lovebird | Purl Soho

Originally designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.

Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoDriftVest and #PurlSohoLovebird. We can’t wait to see what you make!

Materials

Drift Vest In Lovebird | Purl Soho
  • 5 (6, 7, 7) (8, 8, 9) (10, 10, 11) skeins of Purl Soho + Manos del Uruguay’s Lovebird, 100% superwash merino wool. Each skein is approximately 75-85 yards/ 100-110 grams; approximately 410 (440, 505, 540) (615, 656, 700) (755, 810, 860) yards required. We used the color Agate.
  • US 11 (8mm), 24- or 32-inch circular needles
  • Two US 11 double pointed needles
  • Two locking markers or scrap yarn
  • Stitch holders or scrap yarn

NOTE: Because this yarn is hand spun in small batches, yardages may vary between skeins. You will probably get away with the recommended skein counts, but buying an extra skein would assure you definitely have enough yarn. If you don’t end up needing it, you can return unwound yarn for a refund within 30 days of purchase, or within 6 months, for store credit. Our Return Policy has all the details!

GAUGE

11¼ stitches and 15 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

SIZES

37 (39¾, 42¾, 45½) (48¼, 51¼, 54) (57, 59¾, 62½)

To fit actual chest circumference of 33–36 (36–39, 39–42, 42–45) (45–48, 48–51, 51–54) (54–57, 57–60, 60–63) inches, with 1–4 inches of ease

  • Finished Chest Circumference: 37 (39¾, 42¾, 45½) (48¼, 51¼, 54) (57, 59¾, 62½) inches
  • Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 20¼ (20½, 22, 22¼) (24, 24¼, 24½) (25, 25½, 26) inches
  • Finished Length of Armhole: 7½ (7¾, 8¼, 8½) (9, 9¼, 9½) (10, 10½, 11) inches
  • Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 12 (12, 13, 13) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) inches

SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 42¾ inches, modeled with 2¾ inch of ease.

NOTES

CONSTRUCTION

You will knit this vest flat, beginning at lower edge of Back and working to Shoulders. You will work over each Shoulder to work Right and Left Fronts separately down to lower Front edges. You will seam the sides together, then work an Attached I-Cord around all edges.

RIGHT + WRONG SIDE

This piece is worked in reverse stockinette stitch. This means that the purl side of the fabric is the right side, and the knit side of the fabric is the wrong side.

DECREASES

K3TOG (KNIT THREE TOGETHER)

 Insert right needle into next three stitches and knit them together. [2 stitches decreased]

SLIP, SLIP, SLIP, KNIT

Slip 3 stitches knitwise one at a time, insert left needle into front of slipped stitches, knit together. [2 stitches decreased]

SHORT ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)

NOTE: For more help with short rows, visit our Short Row Tutorial, but keep in mind that this pattern is worked in reverse stockinette stitch rather than in the tutorial’s stockinette stitch, so the right and wrong sides are flipped.

ON THE RIGHT SIDE (PURL) SIDE

Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.

ON THE WRONG (KNIT) SIDE

Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so right side is facing you.

WORKING WRAPPED STITCH WITH ITS WRAP

ON THE RIGHT SIDE (PURL) SIDE

Work to wrapped stitch, slip wrapped stitch to right needle, lift front of wrap and place it on right needle next to wrapped stitch, insert left needle through front of wrap and wrapped stitch and purl them together.

ON THE WRONG (KNIT) SIDE

Work to wrapped stitch, lift back of wrap and place it on left needle next to wrapped stitch, then knit wrap together with wrapped stitch.

PATTERN

BACK

BEGIN AT BOTTOM EDGE

Cast 54 (58, 62, 66) (70, 74, 78) (82, 86, 90) stitches onto circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.

Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures approximately 12 (12, 13, 13) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 1.

SHAPE ARMHOLES

Row 1 (right side): K1, slip slip slip knit (see Notes), purl to last 4 stitches, knit 3 together (see Notes), k1. [4 stitches decreased]

Row 2 (wrong side): P1, purl 2 together, knit to last 3 stitches, slip slip purl, p1. [2 stitches decreased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 zero (0, 0, 0) (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) more time(s). [48 (52, 56, 60) (58, 62, 60) (64, 68, 72) stitches remain]

Next Row (right side): K1, slip slip knit, purl to last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, k1. [2 stitches decreased]

Next Row (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.

Repeat last two rows 4 (5, 6, 7) (5, 6, 5) (6, 6, 7) more time(s). [38 (40, 42, 44) (46, 48, 48) (50, 54, 56) stitches]

CONTINUE WORKING BACK

Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 7½ (7¾, 8¼, 8½) (9, 9¼, 9 ½) (10, 10½, 11) inches from beginning of Armhole shaping, ending with Row 1.

SHAPE SHOULDERS

NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row. For extra help, see the Notes section.

Short Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 4 (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6) (6, 6, 6) stitches, wrap and turn (wrp-t, see Notes).

Short Row 2 (right side): Purl to last 4 (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 6) (6, 6, 6) stitches, wrp-t.

Short Row 3: Knit to last 8 (8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10) (10, 10, 10) stitches, wrp-t.

Short Row 4: Purl to last 8 (8, 8, 9) (9, 10, 10) (10, 10, 10) stitches, wrp-t.

Short Row 5: Knit to last 2 stitches, working wrapped stitches with their wraps so that the wraps fall to the wrong (knit) side of the fabric (see Notes), p2.

Next Row (right side): K2, p9 (10, 10, 11) (11, 12, 12) (13, 15, 15), place previous 11 (12, 12, 13) (13, 14, 14) (15, 17, 17) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn for Right Front, bind off following 16 (16, 18, 18) (20, 20, 20) (20, 20, 22) stitches knitwise for Back Neck, purl to last 2 stitches, working wrapped stitches with their wraps as you come to them, k2. [22 (24, 24, 26) (26, 28, 28) (30, 34, 34) total stitches: 11 (12, 12, 13) (13, 14, 14) (15, 17, 17) stitches on hold for Right Front, 11 (12, 12, 13) (13, 14, 14) (15, 17, 17) stitches on needles for Left Front]

Place a locking marker or piece of scrap yarn in the last row at each Armhole edge to use as a reference point later.

FRONTS

LEFT FRONT

WORK SHOULDER EVEN

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to end of row.

Row 2 (right side): Purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.

SHAPE NECKLINE

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, make 1 left (m1L) k2. [1 stitch increased]

Row 2 (right side): Purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2) more time(s). [13 (14, 15, 16) (16, 17, 17) (18, 20, 20) stitches]

Next Row (wrong side): P2, knit to end of row, turn work so that right (purl) side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6) (7, 7, 7) (7, 7, 8) stitches. [19 (20, 21, 22) (23, 24, 24) (25, 27, 28) stitches]

CONTINUE

Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 4½ (4¼, 4¼, 4) (5, 4¾, 5) (5, 5½, 5½) inches from marker at Shoulder, ending with Row 1. Remove marker.

SHAPE ARMHOLE

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, make 1 right (m1R), knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [1 stitch increased]

Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three (4, 5, 6) (4, 5, 4) (5, 5, 6) more times, then Repeat Row 1 once more. [24 (26, 28, 30) (29, 31, 30) (32, 34, 36) stitches]

Next Row (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, make 1 purlwise right, k2. [1 stitch increased]

Next Row (wrong side): P2, m1R, k1, m1R, knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [2 stitches increased]

Repeat last 2 rows 0 (0, 0, 0) (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) more time(s). [27 (29, 31, 33) (35, 37, 39) (41, 43, 45) stitches]

CONTINUE

Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 12 (12, 13, 13) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) inches from end of Armhole shaping, ending with Row 2.

With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.

RIGHT FRONT

WORK SHOULDER EVEN

Return 11 (12, 12, 13) (13, 14, 14) (15, 17, 17) on-hold Right Shoulder stitches to needles, and with wrong side facing you, rejoin yarn.

Row 1 (wrong side): Knit to last 2 stitches, p2.

Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to end of row.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.

SHAPE NECKLINE

Row 1 (wrong side): K2, m1R, knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [1 stitch increased]

Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to end of row.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2) more time(s). [13 (14, 15, 16) (16, 17, 17) (18, 20, 20) stitches]

Next Row (wrong side): Cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6) (7, 7, 7) (7, 7, 8) stitches, working across newly cast-on stitches first, p2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [19 (20, 21, 22) (23, 24, 24) (25, 27, 28) stitches]

CONTINUE

Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 4½ (4¼, 4¼, 4) (5, 4¾, 5) (5, 5½, 5½) inches from marker at Shoulder, ending with Row 1. Remove marker.

SHAPE ARMHOLE

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, m1L, p2. [1 stitch increased]

Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three (4, 5, 6) (4, 5, 4) (5, 5, 6) more times, then Repeat Row 1 once more. [24 (26, 28, 30) (29, 31, 30) (32, 34, 36) stitches]

Next Row (right side): K2, make 1 purlwise left, purl to last 2 stitches, k2. [1 stitch increased]

Next Row (wrong side): P2, knit to last 3 stitches, m1L, k1, m1L, p2. [2 stitches increased]

Repeat the last 2 rows 0 (0, 0, 0) (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) more time(s). [27 (29, 31, 33) (35, 37, 39) stitches]

CONTINUE

Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 2 stitches, k2.

Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 12 (12, 13, 13) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) (14¼, 14¼, 14¼) inches from end of Armhole shaping, ending with a wrong-side row.

With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.

FINISHING

SIDES

Fold the piece in half at the Shoulders so that the wrong (knit) sides are together and the right (purl) side is facing out. Using Mattress Stitch, seam along knit selvage stitches at each side, working from bottom edge to Underarm.

BODY EDGING

Turn the piece inside out so that the wrong (knit) side is facing you. Cast 2 stitches onto a double pointed needle (for the neatest possible finishing, use a Provisional Cast-On). Do not turn. Slide the stitches to the other end of the needle.

Starting at the right side seam (as you are wearing the piece), work an Attached I-Cord along the front bottom edge as follows: *Knit 1, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, bring yarn forward to work a yarn over (yo), pick up and knit 1 stitch from edge (3 stitches on needle), pass slipped stitch and yo over picked-up stitch and off right needle, then without turning, slide stitches to other end of needle, repeat from * along bottom edge to corner, picking up 1 stitch for each of the bound-off stitches.

Continue to work an Attached I-cord up the cardigan opening, now picking up 3 stitches for every 4 rows as you go. Continue as established around the Neckline, down the other side of the cardigan opening, and around the bottom edge to where you began.

If you used a Provisional Cast-On, join the beginning and end of the I-cord with the Kitchener Stitch. If you just cast on normally, bind off the I-cord stitches and sew the beginning and end together.

ARMHOLE EDGINGS

Cast 2 stitches onto a double pointed needle and with piece still inside out and beginning at center of Underarm, work an Attached I-Cord around Armhole, picking up 3 stitches for every 4 rows and working up one side, over the Shoulder, and down the other side back to where you began. Join ends of I-cord together, as for Body Edging.

Repeat for other Armhole.

ENDS + BLOCKING

Weave in the ends and block as desired.

Drift Vest In Lovebird | Purl Soho
Drift Vest In Lovebird | Purl Soho
Drift Vest In Lovebird | Purl Soho

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