Sole Salvo For Purl Soho: Botanical Yoke Dog Sweater
Considering the love we have for our dogs (and they for us), why stop at hand knitting them a sweater? And if we agree to that, why not make it as beautiful as we know, in our heart of hearts, our dogs deserve!
Sole Salvo’s Botanical Yoke Dog Sweater is an expression of all that love. So considerate of doggy’s comfort, as well as vanity, it’s cozy warm and absolutely dashing. Even the goofiest of canines will tour the dog park at a dignified trot in this beauty.
It all started for Sole with the human version of the Botanical Yoke Pullover, designed for us by Kristina McGowan with the same twining cable yoke. And yes, this does mean that you and Fido can wear matching sweaters, a whim as wonderful as it sounds!
To knit up your Botanical Yoke Dog Sweater, you work the back panel flat, then cast on some belly stitches and join to work in the round. Pausing to add some sleeves, then working a simple cable pattern around the yoke, you culminate in a dapper little turtleneck.
Sole includes adjustments throughout the pattern so that no dog is left in the cold. Squat or lithe, boy or girl, short or tall, chihuahua or greyhound, every dog gets to feel the love!
For rugged good looks and naturally beautiful color, we used our 100% Andean highland Good Wool. It now comes in the original undyed neutrals, as well as amazing dyed colors that start with those shades. The result is super gorgeous, and if your dog doesn’t totally appreciate the complex beauty, you definitely will!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Dog version designed for Purl Soho by Sole Salvo.
Original human version designed for Purl Soho by Kristina McGowan.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBotanicalYokeDogSweater, and #PurlSohoGoodWool. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% Andean highland wool yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is 383 yards; approximately 220 (310, 485, 635, 890, 1080) yards required. We used the colors Winter Grass and Tree Frog.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 4, 24-inch circular needles (for sizes L and XL only)
- A set of US 4 double pointed needles
- A cable stitch holder
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Botanical Yoke Dog Sweater Pattern
GAUGE
30 stitches and 32 rounds = 4 inches in 2 x 2 rib, relaxed after light blocking
SIZES
XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL)
To fit chest circumference of approximately 9–14 (12–17, 15–20, 19–23, 22–27, 26–30) inches, with 2 inches of negative ease to 3 inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference, Unstretched: 11¾ (15, 18¼, 21¼, 24½, 27¾) inches
- Finished Neck Circumference, Unstretched: 8½ (10¾, 12¾, 15, 17, 19¼) inches
- Finished Length from Base of Neck to Base of Tail: 11½ (13½, 17¼, 19¾, 23½, 26) inches
Samples: The Winter Grass sample is size XXS, Female; and the Tree Frog sample is size S, Female.
Pattern
The Botanical Yoke Dog Sweater is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
LEARN ABOUT GOOD WOOL + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Good Wool adds loads of character, beauty, and integrity to this knit! A sport-weight yarn whose lofty 2-ply spin can also bloom into a light worsted/DK-weight yarn, Good Wool is made from 100% Andean highland wool, a toothy fiber with a deeply natural appeal. This yarn has a spectacular palette of complex and subtly varied colors, including 5 undyed shades. Very close to the hearts of our customers, Good Wool is a true knitter’s yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Good Wool knitting patterns and cast on!
More Sport-Weight Yarns + Light Worsted/DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of sport-weight yarn
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarn
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
With the longer arms, is this still easy enough to put on a dog? It’s absolutely gorgeous, but I wondered if getting it on the dog involved a wrestling match….
Hi Suda,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m happy to hear that you’re interested in the Botanical Yoke Dog Sweater! Good wool is pretty stretchy, so there should be enough stretch to put it first over their head and then pull the legs through. The designer tends to model it on her own dogs, and some are a little bigger so I think it would work okay if they’re already used to putting on clothes. They might put up a fight if they’re already prone to that. Dogs will be dogs!
All the best,
Lili
I need one that has a hole for the harness rings to go through. We leave it on her all the time. Do you have instructions in how to incorporate that? If he’s, I would buy the patterns.
Hi Irene,
Thanks for writing in with such a great idea! That modification would certainly make this sweater so much easier to keep on for walks. Do you use a harness for your dog that clips through the back around their shoulders? If so, I’d recommend putting a hole somewhere at the bottom of the yoke. You can add the hole using the four-row yarn over buttonhole technique, but since this part of the sweater is worked in the round, you would have to make some adjustments.
You might want to have your dog try on the sweater as you’re working to see when it’s closest around to where the harness would come out. I hope that helps!
All the best,
Lili
I added a key hole for the harness on the Lucky Dog sweater (4 row yarn over, as suggested) . It was OK but I wished this modification was an option for all dog sweaters, especially for those that have more intricate designs, with cables, etc. (Lucky me, the body of the lucky dog sweater was just stockinet!)
Happy knitting,
Christian
Hi,
I have reached the Join Chest & Sleeves instructions and am now stuck… What is meant by holding chest and on-hold sleeve stitches “parallel?” Any help will be appreciated!
Hi Denise,
Thanks for reaching out. I’d highly recommend taking a look at our Joining Sleeves to Body tutorial, as it will explain all the steps you’ll need to take way more in depth than I can describe here! There’s even a video and photos to demonstrate this way of constructing a sweater (whether for humans or dogs)!
All the best,
Lili
Lili,
Thank you so much for your prompt assistance! This was perfect and I just attached the first sleeve. 😊
Hi,
I just finished Belly + Chest for male dogs. I am using the same yarn called for in the pattern and I am getting the correct gauge. However, the measurement in the diagram for Belly length to arm hole is 6” for size small. Mine is barely 4”. I’m thinking I missed something. Can you assist?
Thank you.
Hi Lesley,
Thanks for reaching out. I have a suspicion that you might not be working all of the repeats in the Join + Work Belly and Shape Chest sections! In the Join + Work Belly section, Round 2 should be repeated 6 times before moving onto the Shape Chest section. And in this section, there are 3 rounds in pattern between each increase round. Also, this entire section must be repeated 3 more times (for a total of 4 times). I’d recommend taking a close look at your work so far and count how many rows you have–there should be 72! So if you have fewer than this, it’s very likely that you missed some of the repeats. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi again Lesley,
It’s come to my attention that I gave you some incorrect advice in my previous comment! I hadn’t noticed that you’re making the male version of the sweater, so I answered as if you were making the female version. Apologies for that!
But there were indeed some issues with the measurements in the schematics for the male sizes in particular. The length from the belly cast-on to the armholes should actually be 4 3/4 inches! We’ve just been able to update this in the PDF, so you’ll be able to download the most up-to-date version of the pattern, with the corrections, by downloading it from your Purl Soho account again.
Thank you again for bringing this issue to our attention–we’re really grateful!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
HELP!
I’m having a similar problem that Lesley is having. Where does it show in the pattern in the Belly+Chest Male Dog section that you repeat round 2 six times as you told Lesley? I only see that it shows the joining round, then round 1 placing unique marker and then round 2. I don’t see where it says to repeat in the Belly+ Chest Male dog section. The next step is shaping the chest.
My problem it seems is the belly length after I work the Lower Back and then Shape Lower Back section (before I work Belly+Chest) is too long. Looking at the pattern pictures it looks like I should be joining the belly right after I work the lower back and before I work the Shape Lower Back. It looks like the back shaping and belly are done at the same time?
My sleeves come right to the bottom of where I joined belly stitches (cast on stitches) and I’m 1 1/2 inches short on the belly length to arm hole. The photo shows the belly length to be twice the arm length. Do I work the Belly+Chest right after I finish the Lower Back and then do the Shape Lower Back and then Shape Chest?! I don’t know what I’m missing.
For the XS Male sweater I worked Lower Back with the 7 repeats plus 1 for male only, then I worked Shape Lower Back Male Only with 1 repeat, then I worked Belly + Chest Male Dogs and then worked Shape Chest with no repeats. Something is not right. I tried sending a picture but was unable. The belly doesn’t start until 6 1/2” from cast on edge. Forgive my ignorance!
Can you help me?
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out, and thanks for pointing out my confusing earlier comment! I just now realized that what I said was incorrect–the 6 repeats are only for the female version, not the male version.
It sounds like that difference is also what’s causing confusion for you. Both samples that we knit and photographed are the female version, for which the belly is quite a bit longer than the male version. So it sounds like you’re still on the right track with the measurements of your project! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I just realized the photos in the pattern are for Female dogs. My previous post was very confusing I know. I apologize for that.
I’m using the same yarn the pattern calls for and my gauge is correct.
I am knitting the MALE Dog size XS. The measurement in the diagram for belly to armholes should be for the Male 3 1/2”. I finish at 2”. Lesley is 2” short as well. (All other measurements are right on).
Lesley is making a MALE dog sweater. You told her to:” In the Join + Work Belly section, Round 2 should be repeated 6 times before moving onto the Shape Chest section”. This would be right except the repeats are shown in the FEMALE ‘dog only part of the pattern not the Male only section.
When following the instructions for Male dog the Belly+Chest for Male dogs only does not have any repeats.
Can you clarify? I really appreciate you time. Thanks!
Hi Kim,
Oh I see what you mean! I took a second look through this pattern, and I think there might indeed be an issue with the measurements for the belly of the male dog version. We’re looking into it right now, and I will update you once we decide if we need to make corrections in the pattern! Thank you again for bringing this to our attention, and sorry for all the confusion.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much Lili!
Can’t wait to hear from you regarding this as I am in the midst of making 2 of these beautiful sweaters for a friends old pups. 😘
I truly appreciate your getting back to me so quickly!
Thank you!
Kim
Hi Kim,
Thanks for your patience with this! There were indeed some issues with the measurements in the schematics for the Male XS size in particular. The length from the belly cast-on to the armholes should actually be 2 3/4 inches! We’ve just been able to update this in the PDF, so you’ll be able to download the most up-to-date version of the pattern, with the corrections, by downloading it from your Purl Soho account again.
Thank you again for bringing this issue to our attention–we’re really grateful!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I am at the Belly and Chest for Female and have made it through the first 16 rows but somehow I have ended up with 2 areas between the ribbing on each side of my 2 markers that have worked up in an increasing purls resulting in 3 sections of the pattern which are 4 stitches of stockinette st without the ribbing affect. I used M1Rs, M1Ls and M1Ps as directed. Where did I go wrong?
Hi Kaysie,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you may be working the increases in the incorrect spots, but it’s hard for me to tell exactly what’s going wrong without being able to visualize your work. If you’d like me to take a look, please send over photos to [email protected], and I can troubleshoot more accurately from there!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lill! I decided to tear it out and start again being very aware of my markers and not moving them at all , it worked perfectly. Now I am on to joining chest and sleeves! Thank you!
How difficult is it to make something bigger than size XL? My dog’s torso measures at 32 inches at the chest, thanks.
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for writing in!
Unfortunately, we do not have the resources to include more sizes at this time. If you have modified patterns in the past, I think this can be done with a little bit of math! The back of this sweater is knitted flat, so resizing that section would be simple enough, but once you get into working in the round for the sleeves and chest, it might be more difficult to resize the pattern while maintaining that beautiful cabled design. If this is the case, I would recommend knitting the above gauge, with a larger needle, to make a looser fit, or checking out our Ravelry page for this project to see how others have modified their sweater!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hello. I am interested in knitting this sweater in an XL. All measurements would be good for this dog, except she has a 33″ chest/ribcage, which is 3″ bigger than the recommended size for the XL. Do you have any recommendations on how to gain a bit of ease in that area for this female dog where I wouldn’t mess up placement of sleeves or get off center with this sweater?
Hi Marci!
Thank you for your question. To make a larger size than listed without compromising design dimensions, you can calculate a new gauge! By adding the inches of ease to your dog’s 33″ ribcage measurement and experimenting with a needle size until you reach that new gauge, you can knit this pattern with your custom gauge for a larger version of the sweater.
I hope this helps you create a perfect fit for your pup!
All the best,
Margaret
Margaret – thank you!
Do you think I could switch needles when I get to the chest and then switch back to the regular size so the entire sweater is not bigger, just that rib cage measurement?
You’re very welcome, Marci! I think this would be a great solution, but just to be sure, I would suggest making a gauge swatch where you change to your new gauge halfway through. This way, you can see if the new gauge will look okay paired with your original gauge, and you can also determine if the increased stretchiness from your new gage will be an adequate amount of ease for your dog’s chest measurement!
All the best,
Margaret
Has anyone tried making this without sleeves? It’s the sleeves that drive my dog nuts.
Hi Mary Lou,
Thanks for reaching out! Because this design is knit with a bottom-up construction, the sleeves are necessary, so you wouldn’t be able to make an entirely sleeveless version. However, you can absolutely make a sweater with very, very short sleeves! To do so, just cast on the final stitch count for each sleeve and work a few rounds in 2 x 2 ribbing–just as long as would be comfortable for your dog! Then, you can follow the rest of the pattern exactly as written!
All the best,
Lili
Good solution! Thanks,
ML
2nd comment: can you suggest a machine washable substitution?
Hi again, Mary Lou!
I’d recommend using Cotton Pure instead. This yarn is machine washable and dryable!
All the best,
Lili
I am on the last row of the sleeve. what does “place last 12 stitches onto stitch holder” mean? Which 12 stitches? The 12 increases made over the sleeve rows?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! The instructions “place last 12 stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn” mean to place the 12 stitches you just knit on hold. This would be the first 6 stitches of the round you’re currently on (the P1, k2, p2, k1 you just worked), as well as the final 6 stitches from the previous round. This way, the on-hold stitches are centered around the end-of-round marker!
All the best,
Lili
Oh my goodness I was just stuck at the same exact point! I could not figure out what last 8 stitches meant and what the stitch marker would have to do with this. Now it all makes sense. Thank you so much for this clarification!
I was also very confused by the way this was written. The clarification above makes sense, but it does not translate to how this part was written “K1, p2, k1, place last 8 stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing end-of-round marker, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, p2, k1” To my understanding, it is the first 4 and last 4 stitches of the round that need to be on hold. I hope that’s right!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for checking in about this! You’ve interpreted this part of the pattern perfectly correctly!
All the best,
Lili
I also was stuck at this point. If you had said “previous” stitches I might have understood. “Last” implies stitches at the end of the round. I was baffled at the mention of the end of round marker after just working a few stitches. Now this makes perfect sense.
Hello,
I am on row 30 of the yoke size m for male dogs. It says that the neck will be finished with 112 stitches per row. That seems like a lot to me, and my dogs neck is somewhat slender. Is there a tidy way to continue decreases in pattern to go to maybe 96? Also, after finishing it, the belly is too short. Do you have any suggestions for lengthening this area after it’s finished? I have an idea, but I’m not sure it would look good. Pick up sts from the belly cast on sts, and knit a flap, increasing edges to match the shape of the lower back. Knit to desired length , cast off, and mattress stitch the edges to the lower back. Do you think that would work?
Hi Lesley,
Thanks for reaching out. I’d recommend picking two spots an equal distance away from each other on the neck to work decreases to bring the stitch count down! You can place stitch markers at those points so you know where to decrease. Then, you can continue working in the 2 x 2 ribbing pattern (by knitting the knits and purling the purls) while you decrease.
And that’s exactly what I’d suggest doing to extend the length of the belly!
All the best,
Lili
I am stuck on the section Join chest and back. I have cast on two stitches and left them on the left needle. the directions say to then work across Back stitches starting with PrL2 and then ribbing pattern. Before casting on the new stitches..The beginning of the back row has a single purl, and then goes into the ribbing pattern. Now I am looking at two new stitches plus a previous purl stitch to deal with before getting to the ribbing.
I looked back at the Back pattern and indeed ends and begins with a single either purl or knit stitch. If I follow the directions and start this row with 2 Purl stitches whether I start with the cast on stitches or if I slip those the right needle and just start with the stitch that begins the Back section I am looking at messing up the ribbing pattern already established.
What should I do?
Hi Liz,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d be happy to answer your question, but first I’d like to confirm what pattern you’re working from. You left a comment off the Botanical Yoke Dog Sweater pattern, but from your description of the issue you’re experiencing, it sounds like you’re describing the Lucky Dog Sweater. Can you let me know if you’re actually knitting the Lucky Dog Sweater?
I’ll keep an eye out for your reply, and then I can help out more from there!
All the best,
Lili
I am stuck at the section Divide Chest & Back for all dogs
I have K1 and assumed that I don’t k1 p2 k1 as I am making the XS size, have taken these four stitches and put them on a scrap piece, worked around to the last marker – and should now be putting the last 4 stitches on a scrap piece of yarn. I assume these are the arm holes and they are right beside each other which doesn’t seem right – have I messed up?
Hi Joan,
Thanks for writing in! You’re absolutely correct in how you’ve interpreted the pattern so far. However, it sounds like your final stitch marker might not be in the right position! Here’s where the 3 stitch markers currently on your needles should be located:
The end-of-round marker is right at the start, and if you trace the column of stitches down vertically, it should line up with the end of the cable cast-on stitches you added during JOIN + WORK BELLY. The next marker occurs just 2 stitches after the end-of-round marker. This marker was used to place your left-leaning increases in the SHAPE CHEST section! On the Division Round, you will be removing this marker. Finally, the third marker is essentially a mirror image of the second marker. It was used to place your right-leaning increases in the SHAPE CHEST SECTION, and if you trace the column of stitches down vertically, it should line up just to the right of the beginning of those cable cast-on stitches. This means that it should be exactly 26 stitches away from the end-of-round marker (for the XS size).
I’d recommend double checking that your third stitch marker is in this position! If you’re still running into trouble with this section, feel free to send a photo of your work to [email protected], so that we can visualize exactly what’s going on.
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I am stuck at a similar place. I am ready to start the Divide Chest + Back: All Dogs for XL. I have 2 stitches on the left needle before the first marker. As I read the steps I count 9 new stitches added to the right needle (K1, [k1, p2, k1], [k1, p2, k1]). This would mean the marker is now between the 7th and 8th stitch on the right needle. If I move the 12 last stitches to a holder it would then include that 1st marker. However, when I read the rest of the steps I should come across 2 place holders. I must be misunderstanding something. Could you help me?
Related question – are “last” stitches on the right needle?
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for reaching out, and I would be happy to clarify this part of the pattern! You’re right, all of the stitch markers fall within the stitches you’re putting on hold for the sleeves. You can just remove the markers when you put these stitches on hold, as you will not need them any more!
For the XL size, you begin by working 9 stitches and then putting the previous 12 on hold. These 12 stitches include the first 9 you just worked on the current round, as well as the 3 final stitches from the previous round (these are all on the right needle). While doing this, you’ll remove both the end-of-round marker and the next marker (which is located 2 stitches afterwards). Then, you’ll work in pattern to the remaining stitch marker, remove it, work 3 more stitches, and then put the previous 12 on hold. This will create two symmetrical sleeves eventually!
All the best,
Lili
Awesome! Thanks so much for the explanation. I think it all makes sense to me now – yay!
Hi,
I love the picture of the pattern. It’s absolutely gorgeous! It would be tremendously helpful if you have a how-to video for this doggie pattern so that people can follow along.
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we do not currently have the time and resources to create a full tutorial on this pattern. We’re so sorry about that!
We do have tutorials on all the individual techniques used in this pattern though, which you can find one our Knitting Tutorials page. They are also linked in the pattern PDF itself!
And we are always happy to help out as you knit any of our patterns! If you have any questions on any of our patterns, you can send us an email or even sign up for a free 1-On-1 Project Help session, where a team member would be happy to chat or demonstrate techniques in real time for you over video!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I’m making a size small male sweater. I cast on 76 for the lower back and when I began the shape lower back section there are four increase rows. So, I should have 84 stitches on my needle, but the pattern says 92. I missed that and I’m at the cable section where I find myself with 184 stitches instead of 192. Do you have any suggestions?
Thank you!
Best,
Joan
Hi Joan,
Thanks for reaching out! During the SHAPE LOWER BACK: MALE DOGS ONLY section, the pattern says “Repeat Rows 1–16 zero (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) more time(s),” meaning that you’ll actually increase a total of 16 stitches, rather than just 8. That would have brought you from 76 all the way to 92 stitches!
In order to fix this without undoing a lot of your work, I would recommend just undoing the past 8 rounds, until you’re back at the Joining Round. Then, as you reknit these 8 rows, you can work two increase stitches at symmetrical locations (maybe near the sleeves?) every other row. This will add back those 8 stitches you’re missing, and it’s easy to keep the increases in the 2 x 2 ribbing pattern, since you’ll be adding a total of 4 stitches (1 knit and 1 purl rib) on each side.
Then, once you’ve finished these 8 rounds and have the correct stitch count, you can work the Yoke as written! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I just figured it out. I repeated the shape lower back only two times. I’m frogging back!
Joan
Hi Joan,
Glad to hear that you’ve already figured it out, and apologies for my delayed reply! I agree that frogging back is the best option in your situation. Even though there’s technically a way to move forward without much frogging (as I wrote in my other comment), the sweater will fit your dog much better if you have the correct stitch count throughout.
All the best,
Lili
Hi.
The last row on the sleeves dont make any sense. ( row 25 )
K1 p2 k1 and then place the last 8 stitches onto a holder. ???? Remove the round marker k1 *p2 k2 to the last 3 stitches. 😳😳😳😳
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! This instruction means that you will place the first 4 stitches you knit on the current round, as well as the last 4 stitches you knit on the previous round (these add up to the 8 stitches that you just knit), onto the same stitch holder. This ensures that the underarm is perfectly centered!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m making the largest size. When joining the sleeve, do I start with the section of 12 being held on scrap yarn, or with the section of 40 being held on scrap yarn?
And what do I do with the the 12 being held on the body?
Thanks!
Hi Tracy,
Thanks for reaching out! When you join the sleeves to the body, you will only knit across the live stitches, which are the ones that are on your needles and not on scrap yarn. You’ll save the on-hold stitches for the very end, when you’ll use Kitchener stitch to seam up the underarms! If this is daunting, I’d recommend taking a look at our tutorial on joining the sleeves to the body of a bottom-up sweater. This tutorial is geared towards human sweaters, but the same concept works for dog sweaters as well!
All the best,
Lili
I am at Yoke for an XL dog.
In the set-up round I stopped 25 stitches before the end to place a new round marker. But that places the new round marker between rib stitches. And if I start round one from there I cannot evenly complete the C16 plus 4x K2P2 pattern. What am I missing?
Hi Lynn,
Hmmm, it sounds like you may have gotten out of pattern during the Divide Chest + Back: All Dogs and the
Join Chest + Sleeves sections! When you divide the chest and back, you should end up with single knit or purl stitches at the edges of the on-hold stitches. Then, when you begin the Joining Round, you place your stitch marker and begin the round with one knit stitch, and not a full rib. If your stitches are set up like this, then when you move the stitch marker on the Set-Up Round of the yoke, you’ll be moving it back into pattern, not out of pattern.
Fortunately, the solution to this issue is really simple! All you need to do is not move your end-of-round marker at all on the Set-Up Row. That way, it’ll still be between the ribs, and not in the middle of one!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lilley for your very insightful diagnosis!
I wondered if that’s what had happened. There was a time when I put my work down sloppily and several stitches popped off— likely when I was still using the (too) smaller length. I recall the round marker popped off too, and I probably replaced it incorrectly.
Now I must decide if I will un-knit several rows and get things back in shape or just plow forward with my error. Obvious most likely only to me. I am still a new, knitter, having taught myself during the pandemic. I assume this is one of those dilemmas experienced knitters have learned to confront many times!
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for writing in! We have all definitely been there! I would recommend slowly unraveling row by row to the point you want to pick up stitches. I also always find it helpful to place removable stitch markers on the row I am unraveling to. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any more questions!
All the best,
Gavriella