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Sole Salvo For Purl Soho: Lucky Dog Sweater in Daily Wool Worsted
Is there a very good dog in your life that deserves a very beautiful sweater? We’ve updated Sole Salvo’s best-selling Lucky Dog Sweater knitting pattern so you can knit it in our new Daily Wool Worsted, a superwash wool yarn that can stand up to daily walks, daily cuddles, and daily wrestling with your furry best friend!
The Lucky Dog Sweater is truly the best of the best, completely customizable to just about any dog, from yorkies and bulldogs to greyhounds and golden retrievers. The pattern is full of helpful tips for shortening, lengthening, and widening, with different shaping in the belly area for girls and boys!
A yarn you’ll love to knit with and your dog will feel paw-sitively lucky to wear, Daily Wool Worsted is a 100% superwash wool, worsted-weight yarn. Round, bouncy, and resistant to pilling, thanks to its 4 sturdy plies, it’s also super soft and will keep fur babies warm on the chilliest days. And of course, the superwash treatment makes it machine wash- and dry-able, too, so you can toss it in the wash whenever it meets a mud puddle.
The beautiful palette spans 24 heathered colors, including the delicate Forget-Me-Not Blue, black-and-white Guinea Hen, and moody Teal Storm we used for our samples.
Sole brought her skills and sensibilities as a fashion designer to this fetching design. You’ll knit in the round, from tail to head, with easy wrap-and-turn short rows to shape the yoke (we have a great tutorial to help you through!).
Lots of 2×2 ribbing allows the sweater to stretch around the contours of your dog’s body for a close yet comfortable fit. The ribbed collar is nice and cozy, too, and easily stretches to fit over ears and snout!
Pick up a few skeins of Daily Wool Worsted yarn and cast on for a gorgeous sweater that you and your pup will love… Go on, we double dog dare you!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 55 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed for Purl Soho by Sole Salvo. Sole Salvo is fashion designer to the dogs! Under the name Haute Dogue, Sole creates original dog sweater designs, often inspired by high fashion pieces. They are absolutely amazing, and Purl Soho is lucky enough that Sole occasionally writes down a pattern or two for us, including this classic… So smart, so practical, so haute dogue!
Materials
- 2 (2, 2, 3, 4–5, 6) skeins of Purl Soho’s Daily Wool Worsted, 100% superwash wool yarn. Each skein of this worsted/aran-weight yarn is 164 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 180 (205, 325, 480, 665, 885) yards required for female dogs and 165 (205, 320, 470, 650, 845) yards for male dogs. We used the colors Guinea Hen, Forget-Me-Not Blue, and Teal Storm.
- US 6, 16- or 24-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Lucky Dog Sweater Pattern
Gauge
19 stitches and 27 rows/ rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
32 stitches and 27 rows/ rounds = 4 inches in 2×2 rib, unstretched
Sizes
XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL)
To fit chest circumference of approximately 12–15 (15–18, 18–21, 21–24, 24–28, 27–32) inches, with approximately 0–5 inches of negative ease, depending on the size
- Finished Chest Circumference: 12½ (14¼, 17¾, 20¾, 23¾, 27) inches, unstretched
- Finished Neck Circumference: 6½ (7½, 8½, 9½, 10½, 11½) inches, unstretched
- Finished Length from Base of Neck to Base of Tail (Female): 12¼ (13, 15¾, 19, 21½, 25) inches
- Finished Length from Base of Neck to Base of Tail (Male): 12¼ (13¾, 16½, 19¾, 22¼, 25¼) inches
Samples: The sweaters shown here are sizes XXS in Guinea Hen (worn by Dove), XS in Forget-Me-Not Blue (worn by Violet), and S in Teal Storm (worn by Roxy).
PATTERN
The Lucky Dog Sweater is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Learn About Daily Wool Worsted + All Our Beautiful Yarns
This project is incredibly soft and conveniently machine wash- and dry-able in our beautiful Daily Wool Worsted, made from 100% superwash wool yarn! Spun into 4 tidy plies, this worsted/aran-weight yarn is un-prone to pilling, with a bounce to its step and a lovely stitch definition. Daily Wool Worsted is what makes knitting fun… 24/7!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our growing collection of Daily Wool Worsted knitting patterns and cast on!
More Worsted/Aran-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of worsted/aran-weight yarn (What does worsted-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to worsted-weight yarn will answer your questions and more!)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial, our Yarn Substitution article, and our Complete Guide To Yarn for lots of helpful information.
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop Daily Wool Sport, this yarn’s sport-weight sibling
- Shop machine-washable yarn
- Shop superwash wool yarn
- Shop wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I’m making the lucky dog sweater, and I got lost going from the divide chest + back to the back section.
Row two of divide chest section has me moving stitches onto scrap yarn on the wrong side.
Row one of the back section says I’m back on the right side, but it doesn’t say anywhere to turn your work. I have this big gap where I took those stitches off the needle. Am I supposed to be pulling those two needles together and knit over the gap? I don’t understand.
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! Since you’re working back and forth in rows now, the “turn work” is implied. We wrote it out in Row 1, since this is the first row you’re doing after working in the round for a while, but it applies to all the other rows too! You should be turning your work at the end of each row throughout the Back and Chest section, up until you work the Joining Round in the Join Chest + Back section. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, Row 1 in the Chest section has M1R as the first stitch. How can this be done? Is kfb an acceptable alternative? Thanks!
Hi Nadia,
The first stitch in Row 1 of the Chest section is still attached to the last stitch of the first row of the Back! You can still work a m1R into the bar between these two stitches as normal.
All the best,
Lili
Hello I have another question. I am working the yoke short rows and the ssp instructions at the beginning of the pattern (sl2 knit wise then ptbl) differ from the instructions linked in the pattern (sl1 purlwise, sl1 knitwise). Which one should I do? The previous row uses ssk (sl1 knitwise, sl1 purlwise). Thanks!
Hi Nadia,
I can help you while Lili is out! We’d recommend using the instruction in the pattern since that was used for these specific samples.
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Ok great thanks. There weren’t any specific instructions for ssk so I did it the standard way. I appreciate the help!
Hello! I own the Lucky Dog pattern from the Linen Quill Worsted days. I plan to knit another with Daily Wool. Are there pattern changes with the new yarn or can I proceed with the original pattern?
Thanks!
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for checking with us about this! The pattern is exactly the same so you can totally use the original pattern. (Or if you want the latest version with the new photos in Daily Wool, you can re-download it from your Purl Soho account!)
All the best,
Lili
In the super cute Lucky Dog Sweater pattern, should there be additional markers placed in the Yoke section? I’m having a difficult time figuring out the instructions, thinking the “knit to the next marker” isn’t referring to the markers already in place due to the short rows?
Hi Beth,
Thanks for writing in! There is a marker that gets placed in the Joining Round 1 (under Join Chest + Back) that is easily missed, so I want to make sure you didn’t miss that one. Here’s Round 1 with the “pm” in bold:
Round 1: [K2, p2] 3 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [p2, k2] 3 times, pm, p2, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Once you’ve placed this marker, you should have 3 total stitch markers on your needles!
1) Your end-of-round marker.
2) The first marker, 12 stitches after the end-of-round marker.
3) The second marker, 12 stitches after the beginning of the ribbing after the stockinette portion of the Back.
I’d recommend double checking to see if all these markers are present, and if not, placing any that are missing!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
On my copy of the pattern, there is no PM in the first round of the Yoke. I see 3 SM.
My unique marker is placed after knitting those 22 stitches that are between the two slits ( for the sleeves)that make up the chest.
I have onceplaced at the other side of the 22 stitches.
Then one after the 12 stitches- p2k2 section. Then I am knitting the back K stitches.
I am making size Small.
This is my second sweater I am stitching and I remember being somewhat unclear about this. Somehow I muddled thru lol
Thanks
Hi Anna,
I’m so sorry to hear you’re running into trouble with the Lucky Dog Sweater. This can be a tricky pattern, and I’m happy to help!
The most common issue we see with this pattern is the placement of markers while joining the chest and back for the yoke. It’s hard to see, but the pattern calls for you to add an extra stitch marker in Joining Round 1: [K2, p2] 3 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [p2, k2] 3 times, pm, p2, *k2, p2, repeat from *to end of round.” Do you recall adding that extra marker in? If not, I like to consider the following to make sure I’m on the right track…
When you first join the chest to the back, the unique beginning of round marker (BOR) is placed immediately to the left of the chest stitches. After this, you’ll add two new stitches from your cable cast, continue a bit of ribbing, and then run into the first non-unique marker to separate this short amount of ribbing from the stockinette portion of the back. (This marker should already be there from when you were working the back.) Beyond this marker is a long stretch of simple stockinette. After you finish that, you’ll come across the other non-unique marker that was previously set up from your back section as well. Once you slip that, you have some continuous ribbing from the back into the chest, but it isn’t connected yet. You join that when you do the second set of two cable cast on stitches.
Here’s where it gets tricky… Up to this point in the join, you only have 3 markers in total; the BOR and the two from your back to separate the stockinette and ribbing. However, we need 4 total to separate the body into 4 sections and do the short rows correctly. You add this fourth marker after the second set of cable cast on stitches to finish connecting the body to the chest. That’s the pm (place marker) I highlighted in bold from Yoke, Round 1. If you don’t include this fourth marker, the short rows will not occur in the right places and bleed into the ribbing.
If you could send a copy of your pattern to [email protected], we would be really glad to take a look! We also have a handy diagram that visually explains this part of the pattern which we could send in our email back to you!
I hope this helps, and please feel free to reach out with any other questions you might have!
Happy knitting,
Hills
Hi Hills,
I have sent a copy of this pattern page.
Lili said there should be 3 markers and you say 4, which is what I have.
Thanks so much
You said: If you don’t include this 4th marker, the short rows will occur in the RIGHT places and bleed into the ribbing.
I’m not sure I understand that.
Also, my copy of the pattern says to SM, when I thin k it should say PM, according to your answer.
Hi Anna,
Thanks so much for your replies. I took a look at your email, and realized there was a typo in both Lili and my response…my apologies! I have edited those replies for clarity.
The markers are placed during “Joining Round 1” under the “Join Chest + Back” section, rather than being placed during Round 1 of the Yoke. I’m so sorry for this oversight and thank you for bringing it to my attention!
I hope this helps, and please feel free to reach out with any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Hills
I believe I now have the 4 markers in their proper places. Thank you.
One more thing…
You said: If you don’t include this 4th marker, the short rows will occur in the RIGHT places and bleed into the ribbing.
I’m not sure I understand that. The w/t are done in the stockinet section. Is this correct?
Hi Anna,
Thank you so much for your reply. I’m really glad to hear you’ve got your markers set and you’re ready to keep knitting!
It appears I skipped the word “not”…my apologies! I’ve edited the response to include that word. Thank you for bringing this error to my attention. Yes, you are correct… the short rows should be done on the back portion (which is stockinette) and not bleed into the ribbing. This can happen if the last marker is missed.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
Hills
Hi Hills,
Okay, thanks so much! I feel confident enough now to proceed going forward! Such a fun pattern. I’m working on my third sweater.
I’m so glad to hear that, Anna…always happy to help! You’re making wonderful progress…great work!
Wishing you happy knitting!
Hills
Hello—
I’m struggling with knowing how much yarn (Daily Wool) to buy for my large whippet (Rugby!) for the Lucky Dog Pattern. He has a 27’ chest diameter and 25 “ from middle neck to sacrum. He weighs 47 pounds. Again, he is a “large sized” but very trim/muscular whippet. I wish I could send you a photo as you would definitely understand if you saw him!
Hi Catherine,
It sounds like you will need to make the XL size for your pup! In that case you will need 6 skeins of Daily Wool.
I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I am making the XS size. So far so good.
Page 6
Section: Sizes XXS and XS Only
Begins with: Short Row 5
Is this a short row?
There is no Wrap and Turn indicated.
Hi Jeffrey,
I’m glad that everything has been going smoothly so far! Short Row 5 is technically a short row since it begins from the previous short row’s wrp-t and therefore doesn’t actually cover all the stitches on your needles. It’s the final row before you begin working in the round again, so there is no wrp-t at the end since you’ll need to continue knitting in the same direction going forward!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lil
for the extra extra small size would you use double points once you begin knitting in the round?
My sister has a tiny dog
Thank You
Hi Patty,
Yep, exactly! The finished circumference of that size isn’t wide enough to fit comfortably around 16-inch circular needles, so DPNs (or longer circulars and magic loop) are the best way to go!
All the best,
Lili
I’m reading through the instructions and having a hard time figuring out where the holes for the sleeves are made. Are they made in the chest section or yoke. What stitches create the holes for attaching the sleeves?
Hi Linda,
Great question! The holes for the sleeves are created when you work the Chest and Back separately. That creates two slits on either side of the Chest, which is where you’ll pick up stitches for the sleeves eventually. Hope this helps you visualize things!
All the best,
Lili
Do you think this would work with Yonder? I’ve got some leftover from making the City Cape and thought this might be a cute use for it.
Hi Kathleen,
Yonder would be an amazing choice for this pattern! You should easily be able to achieve the pattern gauge with that yarn, but we recommend swatching anyway to make sure you choose the best size needles!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m at the first row of the divide chest and back section and I’ve been using 16” round needles. And I’m not really sure I get how to turn and go back to the wrong side. Should I switch over to my 24” cable? It feels like what I have isn’t long enough to turn and go back the other way…
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! All you need to do in order to turn your work is switch the orientation so that you’re looking down into the center/wrong side of the sweater. Once your knitting is in that position, you just need to start working in the opposite direction, and you don’t need to change your needles at all, since you will still have the same number of stitches.
This step would probably be easier to demonstrate over Zoom, so if you’re still stuck, I’d recommend booking a 1-On-1 Help appointment so I can show you exactly what to do!
All the best,
Lili
I’m at the part of the pattern right after doing the cable cast on (22 stitches for size small) and I can’t figure out how I’m supposed to join in the round. I finished the shirt tail and belly section for female dogs on the wrong side then I did the next right side row as instructed. Should I have turned it to the wrong side for the cable cast on? I’m so confused. What side should my working yarn on now to start to join in the round? And my working yarn now appears to be one stitch behind the lead stitch because of the cable cast on.
Hi Nini!
Thank you so much for your question! For the cable cast on, you should have the wrong side facing you. It can feel a bit disorienting because it looks like you’re about to work a wrong side row, but that’s okay. After you cable cast on the 22 stitches, you’ll turn the work back to the right side and then join in the round from there.
It’s also totally normal for the working yarn to look like it’s sitting “one stitch behind” after a cable cast on! That’s just how that cast on behaves and it won’t affect the join once you’re in the round.
If you’d like a second set of eyes, feel free to email us a photo at [email protected] and we’ll happily walk you through it step by step!
Warmly,
Megan
I’m stuck on the transition from the back to the chest. The instructions say to place the stitches on a holder so does that mean the remaining 80 stitches I was just working for the back? And then I’m supposed to move the 20 stitches that were on a holder back onto the needles and join them? It’ll be so stretched out to join only 20 stitches on a 16” circular needle.
Hi Nini!
Thank you for your question! You’re very close! After finishing the back section, those stitches go on hold and you set them aside. You then move the 20 chest stitches back onto your needles and work the front/chest flat, not in the round. Nothing is joined yet, so it won’t be stretched on the needle at this stage.
Once both the back and chest sections are complete, that’s when all the stitches come back onto the needle and you rejoin to work in the round. I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Megan
Lovely pattern, but I am totally lost regarding the short rows. Am I doing short rows on the back or chest?
Thanks in advance
Ingelise
Hi Ingelise,
Thank you for your question! The short rows are worked across the chest area, not the back. In the Yoke section, you’ll be shaping the front of the sweater by working back and forth over just part of the round, turning partway through as instructed. The short rows in the Yoke are what shape the chest and neckline area for a better fit. I hope that clarifies things!
Warmly,
Megan
Good Morning! I am so confused….I am making the lucky dog sweater and I am at the “CHEST” section and I am asked to join yarn……I cut the yarn from the “Divide Chest/Back after I placed the live stitches on stitch holders. So where do I join the yarn? Should I not have cut the yarn from the Chest and back section?
Thank you,
Susan G
Hi Susan!
Thank you for writing in! I’m happy to help clarify. You did everything correctly by cutting the yarn after finishing the Back and placing stitches on hold. When the pattern says to “join yarn” for the Chest, you’ll simply begin working the Chest stitches that are on the left needle which are not on hold. With the right side facing you, attach your yarn to the first stitch on your needle (you can just start knitting with a new strand, leaving a tail to weave in later).
If you’re still finding this tricky, please don’t hesitate to reach out to us at [email protected], and we’ll be happy to assist you further!
Warmly,
Megan
Thank you for getting back to me……I took the leap and went with my gut and I figured it out! Now on to the Yoke!
Hi Susan!
Thank you for writing back in! That’s wonderful to hear! So glad you figured it out.
Happy knitting!
Megan
Hello!
I’m stuck at the “Shirt Tail + Belly; Male Dog” section. I’m knitting for a size large. The increase row is 7? So I do an increase row every 10th row. So in three more rows I increase again? And then increase again at another 10? I think I’m overthinking it. Any help is appreciated! 🙂
Hi Melanie!
Thank you for writing in! For the Large size, you’ll work the Increase Row every 10th row a total of 3 more times after the first one. So it goes like this: Work the Increase Row once, Knit 9 rows in pattern, On the 10th row, work the Increase Row again. Repeat that process two more times, for 3 additional increase rows total. I hope that clarifies things!
Warmly,
Megan