Sole Salvo For Purl Soho: Lucky Dog Sweater
Tapping into her day job as a fashion designer, Sole Salvo‘s runway-inspired dog sweaters are for lucky dogs, indeed. And thanks to her Lucky Dog Sweater, your dog, too, can dress like the puparazzi might be around every corner!
For dogs of most shapes and sizes, from yorkies and bulldogs to greyhounds and golden retrievers, the Lucky Dog Sweater Pattern uses 2 x 2 rib details to contour around the body for a smart and comfortable fit and also to lend a little drama to the collar.
The simple construction is in the round, from tail to head, and is also customizable with well-placed tips for shortening, lengthening, and widening. Plus, girls and boys get different shaping in the belly area, so everyone’s comfy!
Sole remembers that designing this sweater for Purl Soho was her artistic refuge at the beginning of quarantine. In full lock down, the creation of stitch after stitch and the feeling of yarn between her fingers became her solace. We couldn’t relate more!
The yarn that offered so much comfort and satisfaction is our Linen Quill Worsted, a mix of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen. It’s toasty for chilly dogs on chilly days, and it’s also seriously beautiful, rustic but subtle, durable but very special, too!
And if you’re wondering why someone might hand knit a sweater for their dog, who is, after all, just walking to the dog park to catch a ball or two, the answer is simple. It’s because nothing beats knitting for someone you love!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
UPDATE: NOW IN DAILY WOOL
SEPTEMBER 2024
We updated Sole Salvo’s best-selling Lucky Dog Sweater pattern so you can knit it in our 100% superwash Daily Wool. A machine-washable worsted-weight yarn, Daily Wool can totally stand up to daily walks, daily cuddles, and daily wrestling with your furry pup! Cast on for a gorgeous sweater that you and your good dog will love with the Lucky Dog Sweater in Daily Wool.
Designed for Purl Soho by Sole Salvo and modeled by Fern (left), Roxy (middle), and Leila (right).
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoLuckyDogSweater, and #PurlSohoLinenQuillWorsted. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill Worsted, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is approximately 164 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 125 (170, 250, 340, 460, 590) yards required. We used the colors Vintage Celadon and Red Poppy.
- US 6, 16- or 24-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Gauge
19 stitches and 27 rows/ rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
32 stitches and 27 rows/ rounds = 4 inches in 2×2 rib, unstretched
Sizes
XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL)
To fit chest circumference of approximately 12–15 (15–18, 18–21, 21–24, 24–28, 27–32) inches, with approximately 0–5 inches of negative ease, depending on the size
- Finished Chest Circumference: 12½ (14¼, 17¾, 20¾, 23¾, 27) inches, unstretched
- Finished Neck Circumference: 6½ (7½, 8½, 9½, 10½, 11½) inches, unstretched
- Finished Length from Base of Neck to Base of Tail (Female): 12¼ (13, 15¾, 19, 21½, 25) inches
- Finished Length from Base of Neck to Base of Tail (Male): 12¼ (13¾, 16½, 19¾, 22¼, 25¼) inches
Samples: The sweaters shown here are sizes XXS (worn by Fern with 0 inches of ease), S (worn by Roxy with ¾ inches of negative ease), and M (worn by Leila with 3 inches of negative ease).
Pattern
The Lucky Dog Sweater is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 45 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 1000’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
What level of difficulty is the Lucky Dog sweater?
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for writing in! I would consider this an easy intermediate pattern, it is very straight forward and includes a few more advanced techniques like short rows and slip slip purls!
Please feel free to reach out with any more questions you have!
Best,
Gianna
I just placed a yarn order (plus the pattern) for the Lucky Dog Sweater. I purchased just one skein if yarn. Could you please make it three and add to my credit card .
Thank you 😊
Suzanne
Hi Suzanne,
Please email us at [email protected] and we can help you further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
can you make this for a cat
Hi Tatyana,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sure you can make this pattern for a cat! Possibly making the body fit a bit more narrow to accommodate a cats more slender shape.
Please let us know how this goes, happy knitting!
Gianna
Does your free shipping extend to Canada? Is there a bundle with yarn and pattern or should I order separately?
Hi Deanne,
Thanks for writing in! Our economy shipping rate is free just in the US, but we can ship absolutely anything to Canada for $8! There is not a yarn bundle for this pattern so you can order it separately!
All the best,
Gianna
Any suggestions for yarn alternatives? We live in a place that can get really cold in the winter (-40C with windchill) and my small 10lb pups would prefer something a bit cozier.
Thanks so much for any suggestions.
Hi Lianne,
Thanks for reaching out! Our Linen Quill Worsted is a wonderfully warm and hearty yarn but any worsted weight will work for this pattern! Our 100% Merino Worsted Twist is excellent, I would also recommend Manos Del Uruguay Maxima and Serpentina, Madelinetosh Tosh Merino, Woolfolk Tov or Anzula For Better or Worsted (and its machine washable!)
Just be sure to work up a gauge swatch with whichever yarn you decide on to insure that your gauge is consistent with the pattern!
Please let us know how this works out, happy knitting!
Gianna
What colors are on the dogs pictured?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! We used the colors Vintage Celadon and Red Poppy!
All the best,
Gianna
When I went to check out I didn’t get the 10% off that was supposed to be through tonight. How can I get it?
Hi Kimberly,
Please email us at [email protected] and we can help you further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
I have a chihuahua male, can the underside of the sweater be made smaller to accommodate him without affecting the looks and fit of sweater?
Hi Ana,
Thanks for reaching out! The pattern is written with instructions for a few variations depending on the size and gender of the dog to insure the most comfortable fit without changing the overall look of the sweater!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Do you have suggestions for yarn to use for southern California weather?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend our yarn Lantern or Blue Sky Worsted Cotton! Be sure to work up a gauge swatch with whichever yarn you decide to use to insure that your gauge is consistent with the pattern!
Please let us know how this turns out!
All the best,
Gianna
I am looking for a wool that has lanolin in it because it sheds rain which we have a lot of. I am looking for the Irish ☘️ look
Cathy
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have any yarns that contain much lanolin, but I would recommend our yarn Good Wool since it is the most natural from the sheep yarn we carry and may have a bit on lanolin in it!
All the best,
Gianna
Cute pattern
Where would I address errors in the pattern?
Thank you
Hi Rhonda,
Thanks for reaching out! You can contact us directly at [email protected]
Best,
Gianna
I have a bichon frise dog and when I measure him, the instruction indicates for a small dog. But I am afraid it will be too large. Do you have sample dog breeds that fit the sizes xxs, xs, s, etc just so I can get an idea?
i.e. large – German shepherd, medium – German pointers…
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! For size reference, the sweaters shown in the photos for the pattern are sizes XXS (worn by Fern with 23⁄4 inches of ease), S (worn by Roxy with 2 inches of ease), M (worn by Leila with 1 inch of ease)!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Do you have any guidance if we’d like to make buttonhole (or larger) hole for the leash by the back of the neck or near the chest area for a harness?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! We do have a tutorial for a Four-Row Yarn Over Buttonhole!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
I am doing a size small for my little dog, so I cast on 62 stitches … in the shirt tail + belly section for female dogs I added 2 stitches with the M1L and M1R … so I was at 64 stitches going into the “join underside + work belly” section … I am interpreting the part where it says to work in stockinette and rib pattern and repeat an increase round every 6 rounds (for a total of 5 more times) because she is size small (the 3rd one in) … increasing 2 stitches every 6 rows 5 times only yields 10 extra stitches … for a total of 76 stitches not 98 … I’m not sure how to get from 76 to 98. Please help! Thank you!
Hi Monique,
Thanks for reaching out! Going in to the “join underside + work belly” section you should have 64 stitches, the you are working the joining Round (right side): [K2, p2] twice, place marker (pm), knit to last 8 stitches, pm, [p2, k2] twice. Then you should be using cable cast method to cast on 22 stitches. Place unique marker and join for working in the round, this should leave you with 86 stitches going into the shaping!
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi there,
I’m currently in the Short Row 2 section of the Yoke portion of the pattern. Is it correct that I should have 11 stitches between the two non-unique markers before I do the P2tog? Somehow I’ve got 12 stitches between the two markers, even though I have the correct number of total stitches. Do you have any idea what I’ve done wrong here?
Hi Filippa,
Thanks for writing in! I believe you are on the right track, not sure where 11 stitches is coming from but it should be an even number of stitches that you are working between the markers in order to keep the rib stitch accurate (sm, k2, *p2, k2, repeat from * to next marker) So 12 stitches should be correct!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m starting the yoke portion. I can do the wrap/turn but don’t understand it. After I turn I’m 10 stitches before the unique marker. How many stitches do I knit and what am I increasing.?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! Once you complete the wrap you will be turning the work and then going directly on to the next row of instruction and working back across the row from the point of the wrapped stitch. So for Short Row 1 (right side): K1, ssk, [k2, p2] twice, remove marker, k2, wrap and turn (wrp-t, Special Instructions) you then should have 75 (85, 103, 121, 139, 157) stitches. Then for Short Row 2 (wrong side) picking up right after you wrap and turn as the last instructions for row 1: [P2, k2] twice, p1, slip slip purl (ssp, see Special Instructions), p1, sm, k2,
*p2, k2, repeat from * to next marker, sm, p1, purl 2 together (p2tog), [p2, k2] twice, remove marker, p2, and then you wrp-t. 73 (83, 101, 119, 137, 155) stitches.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Hi, I’m a bit lost on short row 2 as well. By this point I’ve had three markers on my project (one for the beginning of the round, and two for the edges of the ribbing section). Short row 1 has you remove one marker, then row 2 mentions slipping two markers and then removing one. What’s being removed where? Did I miss adding a marker somewhere? Should there be a marker on both ends of the added center/chest section?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! So at the beginning of the yoke section (row 1) you should have 2 makers already placed and then you place a third in that first round, so you should have 3 going into the next rows! You then remove one of them during the 1st short row!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, I am also having problems with short row 2 . I’ve followed the instructions to * to the next marker,sm,p1, purl 2 together, then it’s says to (p2,k2)twice but this would break the pattern and then it says to remove the marker again(this would be the unique marker all the way across the back. I’m confused. Are my markers in the wrong place?
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for reaching out! My best guess is that your markers may be in the wrong places and it also sounds like you may be missing one stitch marker since there should be 3 including the unique maker (which should not move!) going into Short Row 2, and then you will remove one of the stitch markers in Short Row 2.
I hope this helps but please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello! The dog that I want to knit this sweater for is larger than the XL size measurements. His chest is 36″ and from the base of his neck to the base of his tail is 30″. Do you have adjustments in the pattern for a dog of this size? Thanks!
Hi Rochelle,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we don’t have written instructions for a size larger than the XL, but thank you for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi. Very excited to make this for my dog. I’m ready to start the chest section but confused about the step to M1r at the start of the row. Doesn’t that need to come between two stitches? Pasting the instructions below:
Row 1 (right side): M1R, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1, m1L. [14 (18, 22, 30, 38, 46) stitches]
Hi Tricia,
Thanks for reaching out! For this step you will be M1R on the very first stitch of the row, using the stitch below ad you normally would if the increases was happening further in the row!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m at a loss for this section of the pattern as well. I’ve got 36 stitches on my needle. I understand where to m1r and m1L.
What I’m confused about is the p1, *p2, k2. If I follow this it doesn’t follow the already established ribbing pattern.
Am I supposed to purl the stitch that was just made?
Hi Jaime,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Row 1 (right side): M1R, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1, m1L. and then on the reverse side you K2, *p2, k2, repeat from * to end of row which will re establish the rib pattern!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am looking forward to making this as a gift. I am pretty sure that I need to make a medium (35 pound mutt, beagle like) but when I look at the pattern, I can’t see where I should follow for Medium. can you help? Thank you!
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for writing in! That is such a sweet gift idea! On the last page of the pattern you can find all of the size information, the sizes are XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL) so for a medium you will be following the instructions for the 3rd number within the parentheses! For example in the cast on section it says to Cast on 46 (54, 62, 70, 78, 86) stitches, so for the size medium you would cast on 70 stitches!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you, Gianna! I overlooked it the first time. It’s coming along great, and your online tutorials are super helpful!
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for writing in and thank you for your kind words! I am so glad I could help and that you find our tutorials useful, I can’t wait to hear how the dog sweater turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Again,
I am at the part where I need to join the chest and the back, and the pattern is not making sense to me. It says:
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 seven (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) more times. “Do not turn work at end of last row.Join Chest + BackWith right side facing you, place Back stitches onto right end of needles (opposite end of where yarn is attached).Joining Round 1: With right side still facing you, place unique marker for beginning of round, cable cast on 2 stitches, then working across Back stitches”
If I am working opposite to where the yarn is attached, do I carry it over? I am not picturing what I need to do, and would love some help. Thank you,
Maureen
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for reaching out again! I am happy to help! So you begin by orienting the work so that the right side facing you, you then are going to place Back stitches onto right end of needles, the opposite end of where yarn is attached (so that when you join your work in the round the yarn is at the end and ready to use.) You will then work the first round to join the work! So for that with right side still facing you, you will place your unique marker for the beginning of round, cable cast on 2 stitches, then start working across the Back stitches!
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello, I’m having trouble with this section as well, I know you have explained but I can’t get it wrapped around my brain can you you please help? Thank you…
Hi Annemarie,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! Are you making the swearer for a female or a male? The pattern is a bit different between the two, they will essentially be worked the same way but I will be able to better explain if I know which one you are working on!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m sorry, I didn’t clarify I’m making a male sweater, I really could use your help not understanding the directions and my furry grandson is cold 🥶 lol 😂
Thank you…
Hi Annemarie,
Great! I am happy to help! For the joining round you should have previously placed 2 stitch markers, you will then begin the round [K2, p2] twice top the marker, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, [p2, k2] two more times, then you will cable cast on 14 (18, 22, 30, 38, 46) stitches depending on the size you are making. You will then place another unique marker and join for working in the round. 66 (76, 92, 108, 124, 140) stitches total
I hope this helps, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks I will give it a go,
Would the xxs fit a four pound chihuahua?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! The XXS size should would for a chihuahua, but I do recommend measuring the dog and comparing it to the sizes of the pattern to insure that is the correct size!
Warmly,
Gianna
I have a deeper-chested dog. If you do the additional increases in the increase rounds in the belly, do you need to do additional decreases in the yoke to ensure that the neck is not overly large? If so, how would you suggest doing those additional decreases?
Hi Galena,
Thanks for reaching out! If your dog is particularly deep chested you can remove a round between Increase Rounds, and add 1 or 2 more Increase Rounds. Just be sure to keep track of how many additional increases you made, and add that to your stitch total. This shouldn’t cause the need to add extra decreases in the neck area!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I see an errata noted on RAVELRY but I cannot find on your website. Is there an errata for this pattern ? I just purchased it and want to start it right away.
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for reaching out! yes you can find our Errata here!
Warmly,
Gianna
Your link to the Errata works, but there is nothing for the Lucky Dog Sweater there. Please clarify. Thanks.
Hi Sharron,
Thanks for reaching out again! It is in the errata but it is under the full title “SOLE SALVO FOR PURL SOHO: LUCKY DOG SWEATER” not Lucky Dog Sweater, so you will just need to scroll down a bit further to the S section!
Warmly,
Gianna
Just here to say that my very large rhodesian ridgeback is also named Fern, and she will be getting one of these sweaters this winter <3. Thanks for the adorable pattern and beautiful yarn!
Hi Alex,
Thanks for reaching out! That is wonderful, I bet Fern will love this beautiful sweater! Please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am making this for a male Boston Terrier. I finished the rib and I’m not sure where to go from there. The next instruction title is Shirt Tail and Belly: Female Dogs. If I skip that section and go to Join Underside and Work Belly I am missing the two stitches that are increased. What part of the section under Female Dogs should I follow? There is no male section. Help! I can’t continue.
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for reaching out! There is in fact a section for Male dogs! It is titled Shirt Tail + Belly: Male Dogs, and you can find it directly under the Shirt Tail + Belly: Female Dogs section! Once you complete the rib section you will move directly down there.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
That section isn’t on my download. The section following Shirt Tail and Belly: Female Dogs is followed by Join Underside + Work Belly. I seem to be missing something.
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for writing in again! It should be just past the section Join Underside + Work Belly (since that is a sub section for the Shirt Tail and Belly: Female Dogs) It could be on the next page of your download if you aren’t seeing it on the same page as the Shirt Tail and Belly: Female Dogs sections. It will be the next section in the larger font.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello. Is there a machine washable yarn (with the same gauge) you’d suggest as a substitute? Thanks!
Hi Pauline,
Thanks for reaching out! We have a few machine washable worsted weight yarns you could substitute for this pattern! I would recommend Anzula For Better or Worsted, MADELINETOSH Tosh Merino, MANOS DEL URUGUAY Serpentina or even Blue Sky Worsted Cotton! I do always suggest working a gauge swatch when using a different yarn than recommended in the pattern to insure that you are consistent!
I hope this helps and please let us know how it turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks so much! I’ll check those out.
Love this pattern! Knitted a couple of small sweaters for my Boston! He seems to like them. Added a single row button hole for his harness leash.
Hi Ellie,
Thanks for reaching out and sharing your tip! Adding a single row button hole for the leash is such a great idea!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m having trouble with the joining row. I’m making the medium size and just added the stitches for the joining row for the second time. I’m confused about round 1, specifically *p2,k2, repeat from* to last two stitches, p2.” I thought the row ended with the added stitches and that is where the “unique” marker is. This would seem to end with the ribbing after the cast on stitches. Are there then 2 purl stitches after the 8 stitches of the ribbing that follows the cast on? The pictures indicate that there is ribbing throughout the underside but I don’t see that in the pattern.
(I found the section for male dogs. It was a printer problem. It eliminated the entire bottom section. It is fixed.)
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for reaching! I am glad to hear that you figured out the missing section! For the CONTINUE IN 2 X 2 RIB: Round 1, it is correct as written. Since at this point you have not joined the work in the round (and you shouldn’t join it till later in the pattern) this will form the initial ribbing along the end of the sweater! You will p2,k2, repeat from* to last two stitches, p2. So this will establish the 2×2 rib pattern.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
We may be referencing different sections. The heading for the section where I have stopped is titled “Join Underside + Work Belly” . I added the 30 stitches, added the Unique marker and have reached Joining Round 1. I don’t understand the sentence. The unique marker is before the P2, K2 . If I ignore the unique marker and consider the P2 K2 to be the end rather than the start It would seem that there is an extra P2 (“last 2 stitches”). It is very confusing because I don’t know the beginning or end of a row and don’t understand where the extra two stitches are and why, if it is ribbing being added, it isn’t P2, K2.
Hi Carolyn,
Ok gotcha! I was thinking you were in the section above this one… For round one, after you Cable Cast on 30 stitches and join the work in the round you will [K2, p2] twice, then slip the marker, knit to next marker, sm, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2 (these should be the last 2 stitches before reaching the “unique” end of round marker.) I think you may be getting the markers confused, you should have placed 2 markers at the beginning of the Shirt Tail + Belly section and then placed a unique marker for joining in the round. So in other words- you K2 P2 till you reach the 1st marker, slip the marker, then you will knit to the next marker, slip that marker, then begin the ribbing again P2 K2 till you come to the unique marker at the end of the round, purling the last 2 stitches before the unique marker. These last 2 stitches of the round are purl stitches because the round begins with 2 knit stitches. When working in the round the the first 2 and last 2 are touching and ending with 2 purls maintains the rib stitch pattern.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
I know where the first two markers are. It is the placement of the Unique marker, which, by the directions, should be after the 30 stitch cast on that is confusing me relative to the beginning and end of the row and the 2 purl stitches. I am fine through sm P2, K2.
Is the next set of P2, K2 in the cast on stitches? Maybe I finally understand. It is p2, K2 across the cast on stitches?? It is still confusing. I think, after I place the unique marker, I join and continue the round until I reach the P2, P2 and then proceed with ribbing across the cast on stitches. that whole section is very unclear. Do I finally have it right?
Hi Carolyn,
Thats for writing in again. The Unique marker should be placed to indicate where you have joined the work in the round. So I think you have it right now- once you have cast on the stitches you should have placed the unique marker and joined the work in the round. You will K2 P2 till you reach the 1st marker, slip the marker, then you will knit across the stitches to the next marker, slip that marker, then begin the ribbing again P2 K2 till you come to the unique marker at the end of the round, purling the last 2 stitches before the unique marker.
I hope that clears things up!
Gianna
Hi there, before I bought the yarn for this pattern, I wanted to make sure I purchase enough.
I have a Cardigan welsh corgi who seems to fit the size small in the pattern for neck/chest, but is a very long lady at approx 20” from base of neck to base of tail. Will I need more than (2) skeins of the recommended yarn for this pattern if I need to increase the length?
Thanks!
Grace & Bunny
Hi Grace & Bunny,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend buying 3 skeins just to be safe and in the event you don’t end up using the 3rd skein you can return it for store credit within 6 months as long as it is in the original skein! Also, the pattern does include instruction to lengthen the body of the sweater!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello, I am working on the dog sweater in section titled
Shirt tail + belly: Male dogs
What do the terms pm and sm refer to?
Hi Bev,
Thanks for reaching out! The terms PM and SM refer to your stitch markers, PM means to place marker. So when you see pm come up in the pattern you should place a stitch marker on your needle! SM means slip marker, so when you see this come up in the pattern it means you will slip the marker from your right to left needled and continue knitting!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m knitting this for a cousin’s dog who has developed alopecia….
I’ve knit this first two set up rows, but am stumped on how to complete the 3rd. Any help you can give me would be appreciated. Thank You, Bonnjoe
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for reaching out! Basically for the 3rd foundation row you are are working a variation of a cable stitch. You will start off K1, knit the second stitch on the left needle letting the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle (you can also place this stitch on a cable needle to hold it), you will then place that fallen stitch back onto the left needle (essentially crossing it over the “2nd stitch” when putting it back on the needle) , p2, you will then repeat these steps from the * to last 2 stitches, k2.
I hope this clears things up and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello Again! This time I’m having trouble with a section you previously addressed, but I’m still not understanding. It is the section that should join the chest and back. As your previous writer, I have put the stitches on the needle as described. I have the left end without the yarn, I put the chest stitches back on a holder because I don’t know how to proceed. The yarn is on the right needle. Which needle has the two stitch increase and the unique marker and, if I continue with the yarn, what do I do with the chest stitches? It looks like the only way it works it I the wrong side faces me. That way I would work back to the chest stitches and they would be at the end of the round.
Hi Carolyn,
For the Join Chest + Back section you will be placing the Back stitches onto the end of your right needles (opposite end of where yarn is attached) you will then begin with right side still facing you, place unique marker for beginning of round, and with the working yarn you will cable cast on 2 stitches, then begin working across the back stitches! You will then work in the established rib pattern: p2, [k2, p2] twice, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [p2, k2] twice, p2. Then you will cable cast on 2 more stitches and begin working across Chest stitches.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am going on vacation and just realized it called for linen quill worsted and I have just linen quill?! Do you think I could use two strands of linen quill instead? I don’t have the time to get more yarn before I leave! Help:) Jane sawyer
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could use Linen Quill doubled! I recommend working a gauge swatch with the yarn doubled first to see if your consistent with the pattern or if you will need to adjust the needle size at all to make sure you are accurate!
Please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Just to be absolutely clear so that I can proceed because the directions keep confusing me–the cast on stitches, two each, are at either side of the chest ribbing and the unique marker is at the end of the chest stitches and before the two cast ons, ie the left or end of the chest ribbing with the right side facing? The only other markers are at the end and beginning of the stockinette stitches?
I have been confused ever since the “joining”, “nonjoining” section that put the yarn at my right and called for joining the back and leaving out the chest or putting it at the end and not the beginning.
I hope you can help me unravel the issues. I have managed to join all parts but it has left me with confusion about the unique marker and the cast on stitches.
Hi Carolyn,
That is correct, I think you should be okay to continue. Just be sure that your unique marker is placed to signify where you have joined the work in the round as I explained above!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am at the Chest step and am stuck. It says to place chest stitches onto needles. What needles? Is it the straight needles? Then it says with right side facing join yarn – what am I joining to?
Hi Jodie,
Thanks for reaching out! At the beginning of the Divide Chest + Back section you will have put the chest stitches on hold, so for the Chest section you are then placing them back onto your circular needles after working the back section a re-joining the working yarn so that you can begin knitting and continue on with the chest section. After you complete the chest section you will then be joining the work back in the round for the Join Chest + Back section!
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi. I’m working on the Shirt Tail + Belly Male Dogs section. It seems that the increase row is row 7/right side. Is that correct? If so, then the later increase rows are on even/wrong side rows & it doesn’t make sense to me. Am I counting rows incorrectly? Thanks for your help.
P.S. I tried to submit this question yesterday, but my laptop froze & I’m not sure if it went through. Apologies if it’s a duplicate.
Hi Pauline,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Shirt Tail + Belly Male Dogs section you will work rows 1 and 2 and then for Rows 3–6 you will repeat rows 1 and 2 two more times! You will then work the increase row (technically round 7!) Then you will continue working in stockinette stitch and rib pattern as established, repeating the Increase Row every 10th (20th, 8th, 10th, 10th, 10th) row 2 (1, 3, 3, 3, 3) more time(s) depending on the size you are making until you have 52 (58, 70, 78, 86, 94) stitches!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi. Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately, this is still confusing. Since the first increase row is round 7, why is the repeat increase row on even-numbered rows (in my case, the very next row:8) and not odd-numbered rows? Am I supposed to do a m1p on row 8 instead of a m1L since it’s a purl row? Maybe I’m thinking of this in the wrong way. Thanks again for your help. It’s much appreciated.
Hi Pauline,
No worries, I am happy to help! Basically it doesn’t matter if you are on an odd or even numbered row as much as it matters if you are on the right or wrong side of the fabric! Since you are working the increase every 8th row, that means you will begin by working the increase (right side) then you will work 7 rows ending with a wrong side row. Then for the 8th row you will work the increase on the right side! Here is the breakdown to help you visualize: Work Increase Row, you will then work Wrong Side (row 1), Right Side (row 2), Wrong Side (row 3), Right Side (row 4), Wrong Side (row 5), Right Side (row 6), Wrong Side (row 7), then repeat the increase on the right side, 8th row!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Thanks so much, Gianna! I understand now. 🙂
Hi, back to my last note.
Looking at the right side, the unique marker should be before or after the two stitch increase on the left side, the end of the chest stitches? I think I compensated correctly when joining but I’m not sure.
Thank you!
Carolyn
Hi Carolyn,
That sounds correct to me, if you would like you can send us a photo of your work to our email [email protected] so we can double check the markers are in the correct place.
Warmly,
Gianna
I sent the picture last week. Have you seen it? Can you tell me if the “unique” marker is in the right place?
Hi Carolyn,
Sorry for the late response, we have been very short staffed this week so we are working hard to catch up on all of the questions and comments as well as emails coming in! I saw your photos but was a bit confused since I thought I was checking the unique marker directly after placing it, but from the emails it sounds like your may have moved the marker when you began the short rows so I can’t be for sure if it was in the correct place to begin with. My best advice would be to continue working and finish the sweater! If you run into any problems down the road you can comment back!
Warmly,
Gianna
The Unique marker was placed before the addition of the two stitches. What the photo shows is my continuation and the first short row. I was not sure I should continue because I wasn’t confident that I had initially placed the marker in the correct place because of my confusion with joining. What you see is the back, the two added stitches, the chest, unique marker and two added stitches. Does that help?
Carolyn
Hi Carolyn,
In your email you said that you moved the marker after working the first short row, so if that is true I can’t say for sure if the stitch marker was in the correct spot to begin with since it was loved. I would suggest to keep working and if you happen to run into a problem let me know!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
I am preparing to complete the joining in the round for the underbelly (for a male dog) and am a bit confused on how to do the cable cast on at the end of the row. I have reviewed the linked how to, but am unsure on how to start since there are no stitches on my left needle after finishing the row in pattern before the cable cast on.
Thanks,
Lillian
Hi Lillian,
Thanks for reaching out! You will work the cable cast on by flipping your work so that the stitches are in your left hand, you will then cable cast on 2!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
I would classify myself as an advanced beginner and am happy to report that I’ve gotten the this doggie sweater finished up to the “Sleeves” section found on page 6.
Although I happen to have a set of 4 double-pointed needles in the correct size that I found in my MIL’s knitting supplies that were passed down to me, I’ve never used them. I am stuck at the point of picking up and knitting this next part for the sleeves. I have tried to search for some videos and while I sort of think I know what needs to happen none of the videos I’ve found have the exact same circumstances.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend checking out our Double Pointed Needles tutorial and our Picking Up Stitches tutorial!
Warmly,
Gianna
This is an adorable pattern would be even better with a buttonhole on the back to accommodate attaching to a harness for walking.
How terrible would it be if you threw the finished garment in the washer? I can’t help to think about the practicality of a dog sweater that needs hand washing. I bought the pattern to make for my neighbor, what should I tell her about the care of it?
Hi Zia,
Thanks for reaching out! Did you use the Linen Quill Worsted? If so I have heard of a few cases where people have been able to machine wash the yarn in cold water on a gentle or “hand wash” cycle and air dry! I would suggest possibly making a swatch and trying this out yourself before giving it to your neighbor!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks Gianna! I haven’t made it yet I have to order two more hanks. I really want to use it because it’s gorgeous, I have one in my stash just because I grab one of just about every new yarn you come out with to see how it is and they’re gorgeous, I’m making the size medium so there’s plenty of extra yardage for some washing machine experiments, I’ll let you know it goes
I have finished the sweater. It may have a couple of glitches that don’t show and it fits. I have a skein left over. How can I return it?
Carolyn
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for writing in, I am glad to hear that you finished the sweater! Please check out our RETURN POLICY page, it has all the information you will need regarding yarn returns!
All the best,
Gianna
I am currently working the “shirt tail + belly: male dogs”. I am at “Rows 3-6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more time.” What does this mean?
Does it mean –
Row 3: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times
Row 4: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times
Row 5: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more time
Row 6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times
So total of 16 Rows?
OR does it mean total of 4 Rows where
Row 3: Repeat Row 1
Row 4: Repeat Row 2
Row 5: Repeat Row 1
Row 6: Repeat Row 2
Hi Kay,
Thanks for reaching out! The second option is correct! For Row 3, you’ll follow the instructions for Row 1, for Row 4 you’ll follow the instructions for Row 2, and so on. You should have worked only 4 additional rows (6 rows total) by the end of that direction!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Thank you!
Is anyone willing to explain the “yoke” portion of the pattern to me over the phone?
I’ve read it SO many times, have made SO many mistakes, and am getting extremely frustrated as I’m an experienced knitter, but I believe I am simply reading more (or not enough) into the instructions. Please, my dog is waiting for his sweater:)
If someone is willing, I’ll provide my cell number. Thank you.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! You can contact our customer service team at [email protected] for more assistance and set up a phone or video call!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you Gianna,
I really appreciate your response, thank you.
Peace and Blessings.
Lisa
Hello! I read through all the comments here, but I am still confused about where the stitch markers should be at the yoke part. I had two markers on either side of the ribbing, and one unique marker where I joined in the round. Where must I move what in order to get the yoke part right?
With kind regards, and much confusion
Hanli
Hi Hanli,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help- I just need to know what size are you making, so I can make sure I instruct you correctly about the placement!
Looking forward to your response!
Gianna
Am on the yoke. Question how / where is the beginning of the round to place unique marker. From what I read there should be either three or four markers, can you clarify the positions of these markers. I am making the extra small version. Thanks
Hi Vivienne,
Thanks for reaching out! Basically, when you work the Join Chest + Back section, you will join the work in the round, and when you did that you should have placed the unique marker to identify where you joined in the round and where the row starts/ends. From there you should have 2 other markers on either side of the ribbing section.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I made this sweater once already (with some glitches, but no biggie!) and really want to get it right this time. I’m confused on the chest section about the step to M1r at the start of the row. Pasting the instructions below:
Row 1 (right side): M1R, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1, m1L. [14 (18, 22, 30, 38, 46) stitches]
I saw a previous response in the comments saying to just use the stitch below, but I’m afraid I’m still lost. Can you provide more detailed instructions? Thank you! Can’t wait for my dogs to have matching sweaters 🙂
Hi Alex,
Thanks for reaching out! That is correct, to work the M1R at the beginning of the row, you can create the new stitch by lifting up the bar between the first stitch and the previous stitch, from back to front, and knitting through the front loop as you normally would. If you haven’t already, you can check out our tutorial on Make 1 Right (m1R) + Make 1 Left (m1L) to see a video of this technique in action! If you’re still unclear on how to work it, write to us at [email protected] and we’d be happy to give you some more detailed assistance!
Warmly,
Kelsey
For female dogs, section join underside and work belly. What is meant by the last line “work 4 rounds even in established pattern.”?
Hi Abi,
Thanks for reaching out! Work 4 rounds even in the established pattern simply means you will work 4 rows total in the stitch pattern!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I’m sorry but I still don’t understand! I’m working the smallest size so I’m at 70 stitches on the needles now. Is it time to move on to “Divide Chest + Back section”?
Hi Abi,
You’re on the right track! If you have 70 stitches on your needles now, you’re going to work 4 more rows with just those 70 stitches before moving onto the “Divide Chest + Back” section. These 4 rows will consist of you knitting the knits and purling the purls as you come to them. That’s what “working in pattern” means.
I hope that helps clear things up, but please don’t hesitate to let us know if you’re not sure how to determine a knit or purl stitch or anything along those lines!
All the best,
Zha Zha
I am curious why add the 4 rows? Is it just to add length? I don’t want to add any length so I didn’t do them. Hope I don’t run into any problems……
Hi Sally,
Thanks for reaching out. Those four rows are there to provide a smooth transition from the section with increase rounds to the point at which you’ll divide the chest and back. However, if you don’t want the length that they add, it’s totally okay to skip them! Hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
I’d love to knit one of these for my dog, but he doesn’t like anything going over his head. So we’d need a fastening, such as a zip or buttons to run along his back, so it fully undoes and feet go in first then pull up around body, fastening along back. I don’t know if I have the skills to work out how to adjust the pattern to do this myself. Could we have a ‘reverse cardigan’ pattern available too, for dogs like mine … pretty please
Hi Lindsey,
Thanks for writing in! Thank you for expressing your interest, that is a great suggestion! I will certainly pass this along to the rest of the team!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, I just purchased the pattern from Ravelry and I am a little confused with the chart showing how to take the measurements to decide which size to make. Am I measuring in front of my dogs legs to get the chest measurement? Also, are there two measurements taken for the neck? Thanks
Hi Marilyn,
Thanks for reaching out! You can measure just in front or just behind your dog’s front legs to get the measurement for the chest circumference. There are also measurements listed for both the neck circumference and for the length from the base of the neck to the tail. In the pattern’s schematics, you will also notice several other measurements listed for the finished garments, but the only ones you’ll really need to worry about to select your dog’s size will be the chest and neck circumferences!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hola seria posible el patron en español?.gracias
Hi Encarna,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have this pattern available in Spanish, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi –
I’m at the Shirt Tail + Belly (Female) section, and completely stuck on this part: Working in stockinette…repeat Increase Round every 7th round 6 more times. 116 stitches. (size M) – How do I determine how many rounds total I’m doing? Both increase rounds and regular rounds, because then the next direction says to work 4 rounds even.
Please help!
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for writing in! One round means you work every stitch all the way through, starting at the “end of round stitch marker” and ending at the end of the round stitch marker! So if you are making the M size you will work the increase every 7th round meaning you will work 6 rows, then on the 7th row, you will work the increases. You will then repeat this 6 more times (6 increases total once you start repeating the increase.) Once you have completed this you will move on to the next set of directions!
To help keep things clear, I would suggest using a scrap piece of paper and marking off each round and the increase rounds! That way you can make sure you complete all the necessary rows and increases before moving on!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Hi,
I am at the Divide Chest and Back section and completely confused as I put down this project for too long and am trying to figure out w here I am on row 1. Where should the markers be including the unique marker be in relation to the tail where I originally cast on at the very beginning of this project or the ribbing section. I guess I don’t know where to start the divide row?? If I knew where the markers are supposed to be I think that would help. I have 116 stitches on my needles at the end of the join underside and belly work.
I should never have put this project down for so long!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest sending the information above along with clear photos of your work to our customer service team at [email protected] and they can help verify if your markers are set up correctly!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am about to start this adorable sweater…for my great-granddog, Addie. I am concerned about size. Addie fits all the sizes for Large except for her neck…her neck is 19 inches. I see adjustment options for other body measurements, but not for the neck. Can you help? Thanks so much, Helen
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out. I can certainly help you make a few adjustments so that this sweater will fit Addie. Once you get to the ALL SIZES section, within the YOKE section, you can work through the rows until you have 92 stitches on your needles (and not decrease all the way to 84 stitches). Then, continue on to the COLLAR section! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much! This is exactly the help I need.
Hi, I am working a size M for male dog and am on the ‘working the belly section’. The number of rows for this section (49) are not matching up with the ‘belly length to arm holes’ measurement of 3.25 “ for male dogs listed on the schematics page. Was there an errata update that I missed? i did double check that I am not accidentally working the female dog. i am working the male instructions as intended. The 49 rows in this section, according to gauge, would be almost 8 inches, but the schematic says 3.25.
thank you in advance for your guidance!
Hi Carrie,
Thanks so much for writing in about this! I think you’re working from an older version of this pattern since the latest update did have some changes for the male medium size. The latest PDF should say version 6, so I’d recommend checking to make sure you’re using that one. The work belly section for that size should then only include 28 rows and the schematic should be showing 4 1/4 inches for that size.
We’re so sorry for the inconvenience and hope that helps you get back on track! Please let us know if you still have any questions about that.
All the best,
Zha Zha
Hi! I am on the Shirt Tail + Belly portion for Male dogs and I am very confused on the increase row section. I finished rows 3-6 and I am confused. 1) When do you do the increases (because this is technically row 7 but the pattern says to increase every 10th row for M dogs, what rows specifically do the increases happen), 2) how many rows total are done before moving onto the Join Underside + Work Belly section?
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out; that’s a good question! You’ll work the increase row on Row 7, Row 17, Row 27, and Row 37. Then, you’ll repeat Row 2 once more, for a total of 38 rows in this entire section before moving on to Join Underside + Work Belly. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I am stuck on the decrease round of the yoke. I have worked to the second marker, where it says “work in established rib to 3 sets before next marker”. That next marker is my unique marker, so wouldn’t that end the round? If I continue to follow the pattern- “small, p2, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end of round”- I’ll be on a new round, won’t I? I hope this makes sense! Thanks so much
Hi April,
Thanks for reaching out! We’ve gotten quite a few inquiries about this section, but it usually turns out that people are missing the instructions to place another marker in the first round of the yoke. It’s there, but it’s kind of sneaky! This round reads:
Round 1: [K2, p2] 3 times, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [p2, k2] 3 times, pm, p2, *k2, p2, repeat from *
to end of round.
So after completing this row, you should have 4 stitch markers on your needles, including the end-of-round marker! By missing that “pm,” you’ll end up using the marker that was supposed to separate the stockinette back from the ribbing as the decrease marker and the ribbing will bleed over into the stockinette starting with the second short row. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi
I buy the ‘Lucky Dog Sweater Pattern’ and I want to put an harness to my dogs under these sweater. Can somebody explain me how I can modify these pattern ?
Thanks
Hi Carole,
Thanks for writing in with such a great idea! If you use a harness for your dog that clips through the back around their shoulders then I’d recommend putting a hole towards the top of the back section. Fortunately this part is worked flat, so you can create it like our video tutorial shown here (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/four-row-yarn-over-buttonhole/) more easily.
I would create the hole in the center of the stockinette section of the back. You might want to hold it against your dog as you’re working to see when it’s closest around to where the harness would come out. I hope that helps!
All the best,
Lili
This is a beautifully designed and written pattern, easily the best I have made for my prince of a poodle. I juiced it up by adding a row of stag horn cable down the spine. If anyone else wants to do that, keep in mind the short row shaping at the shoulder: choose a fairly narrow cable pattern so the short rows don’t run into it.
I found the sizing ran a little on the large size for my very lean little guy, who has a body like a whippet. Fortunately, I was able to adjust by fulling and shrinking in the washer/dryer instead of the usual gentle blocking.
Hi Joel,
Thank you for your incredibly kind words! We’re so happy that you enjoyed making this pattern, and the additional cabling you added sounds absolutely stunning! We really appreciate that you took the time to share your thoughts and suggestions.
Have a wonderful rest of your weekend!
All the best,
Cat
Hello, the side note on page 4 says to add an extra round between each increase round if the recipient is a long dog. It is not clear to me what this means. If I’m doing the XS, does this mean repeat the increase row every 21 rounds instead of 20? Thanks!
Also the pattern reads “every 10th (20th, 8th, 10th, 10th, 10th) row” is 20th correct for the size XS? It seems like a lot of rows to me. Thank you!
Hi again Luzmin,
The reason that there are so many rows between increase rows is because you’ll only need to increase by 4 stitches from the original cast-on number! But since you’ll also need to make this part of the sweater long enough, there end up being a lot of rows in-between each increase row. I hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Luzmin,
Thanks for reaching out. You are absolutely correct–for the size XS, you’ll repeat the increase row every 21 rounds instead of 20! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
ok. Have a question. I have made one sweater so am familiar with pattern etc. I want to knit a sweater for a standard dachshund weighing 25 pounds. Neck and length are fine for small but with chest circumference she is 22 so where would I start adding girth? thanks for any quick answer.
Hi Sally,
Thanks for reaching out. I would actually start by knitting the size Medium and making alterations from there! To make the length slightly shorter to match the length for size Small, you can knit one fewer round between each Increase Round in the JOIN UNDERSIDE + WORK BELLY section. And to make the neck smaller as well, you can work a few more decrease rounds in the YOKE section until you have 60 instead of 68 stitches. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Round
Hi for the short row switch to shadow wraps instead wrap &t?
Please let me know. Thank you.
Hi Gi,
Thanks for reaching out. You can definitely use shadow wraps instead of wrap + turn short rows in this pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
After I seen you alls wrap +turn tutorial it turn out really easier then other people done it, so I am using you alls way to do the short rows and it is turn out to be beautiful, smooth invisible.
Thank you .
Hi
I am so in awe of this designer’s detailed instructions! And the lovely sweater. I am probably an advanced beginner so have made mistakes and had to restart. New to Wrap & Turn as well as SSP.
Forging ahead anyhow. I am a stickler for following directions to the letter as the W&T leaves me completely at sea. My questions are: in the Small size: Round 1 Size S Only: where it says “K1, ask, p2, [knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap] TWICE, …. Doesn’t that mean I am knitting another round??
Also: SSP demo on Youtube (not Purlsoho) purls the slipped stitches together in the regular way. Which should it be?
I bought the pattern in May of ’21 so is my pattern up to date for corrections?
Thank you for your help. My puzzlements are due to my inexperience, not the very very meticulous care of the designer!
Hi Kate,
Thanks for reaching out. I can absolutely help clarify the pattern for you! In answer to your question about Round 1, this is the first round that you’ll be working after you finish the short rows earlier. Because short rows are worked back and forth, there are always two ends to each (picture a line segment), which means that there will always be two wraps to pick up! So both of these wraps get picked up on Round 1.
In answer to your question about the ssp technique, there are a couple different ways to work an ssp (and an ssk as well), so there are actually a few perfectly correct options! The way you should choose to do your ssp’s depends on how you’re doing your ssk’s. An ssk can either be done by slipping 2 knitwise and then knitting through the stitches, or by slipping 1 knitwise and then 1 purlwise and knitting through them. To get an ssp that perfectly matches the ssk, then you’ll need to use the corresponding method! So if you’ve been working your previous ssk’s by slipping both stitches knitwise, then you should use the version of the ssp that slips both stitches knitwise. But if you’ve been working your ssk’s by slipping 1 stitch knitwise and 1 purlwise, then you should use the version of the ssp that slips 1 stitch purlwise and 1 knitwise!
I hope this background information helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Big thanks Lili! I think dog sweaters were meant to be learning experiences. I finished mine and even with a few goofs the sweater looks splendid! I’m going to embroider a little to hide the mistakes. Such a good fit though!
I appreciate your thoughtful explanations and have printed them out to save with the pattern for next time I make it.
Hi
Shirt Tail + Belly : female dogs
Rows 3-6 : repeat rows 1 and 2 two more times.
In this section am I doing total 10 rows?
Star counting row 1 through 6.
I am kind confused.
Thank you.
By the way , all your dog sweater pattern is so genius and lovely.
Hi Gi,
Thanks for writing in. In this section, you’ll be doing a total of 8 rows! First, you’ll work Rows 1 and 2 (2 rows total), then you’ll repeat them two more times (4 more rows, 6 rows total), and finally, you’ll work Rows 7 and 8 (2 more rows, 8 rows total). Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I’m making this sweater and am a bit confused on the short row shaping on yoke. Once I do the ‘short row wrap’ on short row 1, do I just continue around to the next edge of the ribbing? Am I correct in that the short row decreases are on either side of the ribbing?
TIA
Janet
Hi Janet,
Thanks for reaching out. You are indeed correct that the wrap + turns will happen on either side of the ribbing section! As long as you follow the instructions, you will definitely end up in the correct spot to work the wrap + turn, as well as the yoke decreases that happen on each row. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
This looks like a very nice pattern. Covers neck and stomach nicely. How does one put it on? Legs first, then pop over head? Thank you.
Hi Geraldine,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! Yes, that is correct, the best way to put it on would be to slip the legs in and then pop over the head!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi,
Can you please clarify if the gauge is for stocking stitch knitted flat, or stocking stitch knitted in the round?
Thanks!!
Hi Nanna,
Thanks for reaching out. Since this design is knit mostly in the round, it would be most accurate to swatch in the round as well! Hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
hello,
I am working the Divide Chest and Back park of the pattern and a bit confused – I am sure it is due to my skill level, not the pattern.
Do I just go back and forth, back and forth on row 1 and 2 7 times (making a small) and then once I finish that move on to the chest instructions? These two pieces will remain separate?
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out, and you are correct! You will be working rows 1 and 2 of the back section 6 times, then knitting row 1 again. From there, you will place these stitches on hold and then pick up and knit the chest panel to begin working that separately.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi PS,
Great pattern, thank you! I have knitted for my dachshund, I’m. Lack mania super wash. It fits well, but his short stumpy arms keep getting stuck inside, then come out the neck hole which is too narrow for his body to follow through, and he ends up hobbled sideways on the ground. Has anyone else had this problem? I can’t see exactly the mechanics of it, whether removing the cuffs or tightening the arm holes, or what could be done to make it useable? Looks great when he’s able to trot around in it though! (And he loves wearing too which is a first for jackets and that dog).
Sorry autocorrect changed my return email address. Fixed here.
Hi Lucy,
Thanks so much for your question! We’ve gone ahead and reached out to you via email so we can get more information about the fit of your dog’s sweater.
I’ll be sure to keep an eye out for your reply!
All the best,
Carly
I really want to make a sweater for one of our dogs who gets cold in the winter. Would this be a good pattern for an advanced beginner?
My dog is 25 lbs and slender (a rough coat Kromfohrlander), so would I need to make a lot of pattern adjustments? I have zero experience with this.
Also, Grace Kelly loves to roll around on the ground. Would your recommended wool hold up to repeated washings?
Thanks so much for your time.
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for reaching out. The Lucky Dog Sweater is great for an advanced beginner! And if you have any questions along the way, we’re always happy to help out.
In terms of sizing, I’d recommend taking a look at the finished measurements that we give on the pattern page. Then, you can measure your dog and compare those measurements to the ones for each size. That way, you can determine exactly where you might need to make modifications to the pattern (and if you would need to at all).
In answer to your question about yarn, I wanted to let you know that Linen Quill Worsted should be hand washed because of the animal fiber content. So if you’re looking for a yarn that you can throw in the washer and drier instead, I’d recommend using a plant-based yarn, like Tulip Cotton or Sunshower Cotton.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello friends at Purl Soho,
I’m knitting the size small and may have found a problem with the pattern. Within the short row section, SHORT ROW 3: it says [L2, P2] twice, however I only had 4 stitches instead of 8 so the twice should be removed. For SHORT ROW 4: it has K2, P2, K2, purl to wrapped stitch, for this section I only had 4 stitches instead of 6 so I believe the 2nd K2 is extra. I state this with… I COULD BE WRONG! But I ignored these two errors and my stitch count and ribs look great. Love the pattern, love the fit. Its quite impressive when dogs are so many different sizes that you’ve created a pattern to satisfy so many animals and according to Ravelry, even a hamster! Thanks, from Johanna & Shiloh
Hi Johanna,
Thanks for reaching out! I’ve checked over this part of the pattern, and I can confirm that it’s correct. When you begin the Yoke section, you’ll have 12 stitches of ribbing before the stockinette portion of the back (2 of these stitches come from the 2 stitches you cable cast on during Joining Round 1). Over the course of Decrease Round, Short Row 1, and Short Row 3, you will decrease a total of 3 stitches at this location, leaving you with 9 stitches in the ribbing pattern at the start of Short Row 3. These 9 stitches are [k2, p2] twice (the first 8) and k1 (the 9th).
Since you were missing 2 stitches at this point, I believe that you may have missed the cable cast on in the Joining Round. But I’m so glad to hear that everything worked out in the end, and that it fits so well!
All the best,
Lili
So a lovely dog sweater
Please recommend a substitute yarn in deep purple that is smooth without any lint. Thank you.
Hi Fran,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend Plenty in either Fresh Fig, Gray Pearl, or Red Plum. Hope this gives you some ideas!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you. That was very helpful.
Hello,
I bought this pattern and made it for my granddog which is a golden doodle. My sister wants one for her dog – an english bulldog( very large). neck is 23″ and chest is 32.5. would the XL size fit this dog? I love this pattern and would love to make it for her. i’m not that confident in adjusting the pattern unless you think it wouldn’t be that hard?
Thank you!
Hi Sue!
Thank you for writing in. I think a size XL would still fit your sister’s dog with one easy modification! All you would need to do is measure your gauge over 2×2 ribbing, and then use that to determine how many stitches you will need for a 23″ collar. You can knit the rest of the dog sweater as written, but then when it comes time to decrease right before the Collar (under “All Sizes”), you will decrease less times than the pattern instructs, leaving more stitches for a wider neckline.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Like so many others, I am confused by the Yoke section. Is there an errata sheet for these directions? Are you sure they are correct? I’ve done it twice & I’m still not clear. Are the short rows, along with the decreases, all being incorporated into the ribbing section or are the decreases in the ribbing section, and the short rows incorporated into the back (stockingnette) stitches? It seems the pattern indicates one and then the other.
Hi Bonnie,
We’re so sorry to hear you’re having trouble with the yoke section! I am happy to help clarify this part of the pattern. While we do have some errata listed for this pattern, any version purchased after May 17, 2021 is up to date with these adjustments.
When working the yoke, the short rows and decreases will happen simultaneously to grow the chest fabric while also decreasing the back and front fabric for a perfect fit! The short rows are worked within the ribbing for the chest only, and the decreases occur at the very edges of the back section, one right after the first marker, and one right before the marker on the other side. The decreases will occur within the ribbing pattern at first, and then continue along the edge of the stockinette section, right where it joins up with the ribbing! In the pattern, you will follow the instructions under YOKE to establish the chest ribbing short rows and decreases, then proceed to follow the size-specific instructions to continue this shaping, before following the “All Sizes” instructions to finish decreasing in the yoke.
I hope this helps clarify this section, and please don’t hesitate to let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi, I love this sweater and would like to make it for my dog. I’m somewhat of a beginner… do you think this patter is too complicated for a beginner? How would you rate it? beginner, intermediate, advanced… Thanks!
Hi Cris,
Thanks for reaching out. I think that this pattern would be an exciting challenge for a relative beginner! To give you a sense of what techniques you’ll encounter in the pattern, I’ll link some tutorials we have for them below:
Long Tail Cast-On
Wrap + Turn Short Rows
Cable Cast-On
Purl 2 Together
I hope that these tutorials are useful, and as always, we’re here to help! If you run into anything tricky or confusing as you work through the pattern, please don’t hesitate to reach out to us either here, or at [email protected].
All the best,
Lili
I have gotten to the part right before the yolk when you cable cast on stitches I am clearly confused on how to go from here. When I start and it says to start with Pearl too it seems to me that I should be starting with Knit to. Also are we going around at this point or are we going still right side and right wrong side. Once I pick up the stitches from the back am I going to go and join in the round or am I supposed to go back-and-forth? I am stuck so near the end of the project. So far it has been fabulous but I feel like maybe I picked up the incorrectly from the back although I did pick up the other side of where the yarn was as was instructed
Hi Abby,
Thanks for reaching out, though I’m sorry to hear that you’ve hit a stopping point in your project! In the Join Chest + Back section you will resume working in the round. After you cable cast on 2 stitches, you will be in position to work the stitches across the back. Although it may not seem exactly right yet, these first 2 stitches are meant to be purled! By purling them, you will re-establish the 2 x 2 ribbing pattern at each edge of the Back stitches.
I hope this helps clarify things, but if you’re still stuck, then I’d recommend sending a photo of your work to [email protected]. That way, we’ll be able to take a closer look!
All the best,
Lili
I was confused by this as well. The only way the pattern made sense to me at this point is if I faced the wrong side and then did the cable cast on, and then flipped to face the right side to start knitting across the back, as the pattern says. Did I do this wrong?
Hi Deborah,
Sounds like you did everything correctly! The first step of any cable cast-on is to turn your work so that the opposite side is facing you. Then, you cast on the stitches, and once you’re done, you turn the work back around and continue knitting! Since all of these steps are part of the instruction “cable cast on 2 stitches,” they don’t need to be specified elsewhere in that line of the pattern. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, and makes sense!!
I’m confused about what comes next…I just finished the beginning 2×2 ribbing….I’m knitting for male…so do I go to section labeled
“Join underside + work belly”?
Or
Do I go to …” Shirt tail + belly” ?
Thank you
Hi Jacqueline,
Thanks for reaching out. At this point in the pattern, you’ll proceed to the JOIN UNDERSIDE + WORK BELLY subsection within the Shirt Tail + Belly: Male Dogs section! This begins near the top of page 4 of the pattern. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Under the section CHEST, after placing stitches from holder onto needles, Row 1 says to M1R as first stitch. I have always made one right or left between stitches….How do you do this with the first stitch?
thanks for your help
Patty
Hi Patty,
Thanks for writing in! While you are working the make-one increase at the beginning of the first row of the Chest, it is actually still worked between two stitches. It’s positioned between the last stitch of the Back and the first stitch of the Chest! I hope this helps you visualize where the increase is created!
All the best,
Lili
yes Thank You
was reading ahead and figured this might be the case
I really appreciate the support and quick response
makes trying a complicated pattern more appealing knowing you are there
Hi – me again! Making steady progress but at a point of uncertainty now, in yoke section short row 3. I think I can identify the wrapped stitch – at least, on the third knit stitch following rib pattern the stitch looks different from the others!! So if I am correct and this is the wrapped one, what does it mean to “knit wrapped stitch with its wrap”???
Hi Deborah,
Glad to hear that you’re making good progress! Knitting a wrapped stitch with its wrap means that you’ll pick up both the loop that’s the “wrap” from the previous wrp-t as well as the loop of the stitch, and then knit them as one stitch. We demonstrate this technique in our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial, so I’d recommend checking that out to see it in action!
All the best,
Lili
I’m having a lot of fun with this pattern and the part I’ve knitted so far is cute! I’m a new knitter and I’m at the very end of the “Back” section where it says to cut the yarn and I’m a bit confused. Should I leave a tail to weave in at the end or do I need to put a knot in it or something? Then, in the “Join Chest + Back” section there is a reference to the side with the yarn attached in the first statement, but isn’t it supposed to be cut? I just want to make sure I understand what I’m supposed to do before cutting the yarn. Thanks!
Hi Megan,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you can just leave a tail to weave in later when you cut the yarn at this point. However, the yarn that the instruction “where yarn is attached” is referring to is actually your current working yarn! This is the yarn that you have just completed knitting the Chest with. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for clarifying! I went for it and it’s looking really good! Now I’m ready to bind off and start the sleeves. Is the 2×2 bind off the same as a tubular bind off? Are there any videos demonstrating this technique that you recommend? I also started reading ahead about the sleeves and I’m confused about how to start. Are there any videos? Thanks!
Hi Megan,
That’s so great to hear! Binding off in 2 x 2 ribbing is actually very different from the tubular bind-off. All you’ll need to do is bind off essentially as normal, except instead of knitting each stitch, knit the knit stitches only and purl the purl stitches. The rest is the same as usual!
I’m afraid that we don’t have any videos specifically about these sleeves, but since they begin with picking up stitches, I’d recommend taking a look at our tutorial on that technique! And please don’t hesitate to reach out to us with any specific questions you have along the way!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I am starting on the Divide Chest + Back section and am confused about the first m1L. Is this supposed to be a purl stitch? When I turn my work the following stitch is a knit but the instructions say to purl. Also, how do I turn my work without doing a wrap? Ugh!
Thank you!
Hi Norma,
Since you’re working the m1L on the right side of the work, this should appear as a knit stitch on the right side and a purl stitch on the wrong side. But honestly, it doesn’t really matter if it looks a bit off, since it will actually get completely covered up once you pick up stitches for the sleeves along this edge! Overall though, you should have 2 stitches of 1 x 1 ribbing at the edges of both the Back and Chest sections, followed by the 2 x 2 ribbing.
When you turn your work, you will not need to work a wrap + turn, since you’ll actually want to create a gap between stitches, rather than keeping them joined together like when you work short rows. The easiest way to think about this step is to pretend you’re just working flat and ignore the other stitches altogether! You can turn your work exactly as you would at the end of a normal row when knitting flat, and everything will turn out correctly.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I am making the medium size for a male dog and am on the section Shirt-tail & Belly: Male Dog. I am confused about the increase rows. I have completed rows 1-6. The instructions say to make an increase row every 10th row, 3 more times. Is the first increase row, row 7? Or do I begin counting the 10 rows after the first increase row?
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for reaching out! The first Increase Row you work will be the 7th row, and then you’ll begin counting the 10 rows after this. You’ll work 9 rows in stockinette (starting on a wrong side row and ending on a wrong side row) and work the next repeat of the Increase Row on the following, 10th, row. You’ll then repeat those 10 rows until you’ve worked a total of 4 Increase Rows (the first one, plus the “3 more times”). Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I am making a size XL and made a mistake when I was working on the yoke. Can you tell me where the stitch marker placement should be on size XL after completing the row of joining the chest and back in the round? Thank you!
Hi Krisann,
Thanks for reaching out, and absolutely! There should be 3 stitch markers in total after the Joining Round: 1 beginning/end-of-round marker at the edge of the chest, before you cable cast on 2 stitches, and then 1 marker on each side of the stockinette portion of the back. Then, on Round 1 of the Yoke, you’ll place a 4th marker, after the first 12 stitches of ribbing after the stockinette. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I’m completely stuck on the Join Chest + Back section. I just can’t work it out, no matter how I try to do it I end up working in the round on the wrong side (so purling the back, instead of knitting. I noticed the back portion ended on the right side and the chest ended on the wrong side (looking at the pattern it has one more row than the back), is this right? Part of me just wants to remove one row on the chest so that the starting yarn is to the left (when looking at the chest portion on the right side) instead of on the right. I hope that made sense and you’re able to guide me along.
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you may be turning your work at the end of the final repeat of Row 3 for the Chest. This is actually a right side row, so you’ll need to stay on the same side as you continue. Once you finish the final Row 3 (right side), do not turn your work, but rather proceed immediately to Joining Round 1 by placing a stitch marker, working the cable cast-on, and then working across the back. Hope this helps get you back on track!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m currently knitting my way through the Lucky Dog Sweater in a size Medium and have just reached the “Join underside + work belly” portion of the Shirt Tail + Belly for Male Dogs section. I completed the first instructions in that section which end with the cable cast on, and am stuck at the instructions for Round 1 which begins with K2, p2 twice. This is where I noticed that up until now, I have been knitting with the working yarn held in my left hand, with the stitches ready to knit also being on my left needle – due to this, the stitches that are ready to knit (on left needle) are the 30 stitches created with the cable cast on, not the k2, p2 which are on the right needle. In order to have the first stitches in that 1st joining row be the k2, p2, I would need to flip the needles so that the working yarn would be coming from my right needle. I am wondering if doing this would affect the visual direction of the stitches and what you recommend? Thank you in advance!
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing in! When you began the cable cast-on, you would have flipped your work around so that the wrong side was facing you. After completing the cable cast-on, you will need to flip your work back to the right side in order to continue knitting in the round! Once you do this, you should be all set!
All the best,
Lili
I want to make my dog a sweater with the merino bloom, do you think it would work with this pattern???
I am not very patient when it comes to making guage squares…ugh.
thank you sincerely
patty drey
Hi Patty,
Cashmere Merino Bloom is probably a bit too thin for this pattern since it’s a DK weight yarn and this pattern was written for a worsted weight yarn. I’m happy to recommend a different yarn that will work for this pattern, so let me know if you’re interested in that! If you have your heart set on Cashmere Merino Bloom though, then I’d recommend the Dog Park Sweater, which was designed for a DK weight yarn!
All the best,
Lili