Sole Salvo For Purl Soho: Lucky Dog Sweater
Tapping into her day job as a fashion designer, Sole Salvo‘s runway-inspired dog sweaters are for lucky dogs, indeed. And thanks to her Lucky Dog Sweater, your dog, too, can dress like the puparazzi might be around every corner!
For dogs of most shapes and sizes, from yorkies and bulldogs to greyhounds and golden retrievers, the Lucky Dog Sweater Pattern uses 2 x 2 rib details to contour around the body for a smart and comfortable fit and also to lend a little drama to the collar.
The simple construction is in the round, from tail to head, and is also customizable with well-placed tips for shortening, lengthening, and widening. Plus, girls and boys get different shaping in the belly area, so everyone’s comfy!
Sole remembers that designing this sweater for Purl Soho was her artistic refuge at the beginning of quarantine. In full lock down, the creation of stitch after stitch and the feeling of yarn between her fingers became her solace. We couldn’t relate more!
The yarn that offered so much comfort and satisfaction is our Linen Quill Worsted, a mix of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen. It’s toasty for chilly dogs on chilly days, and it’s also seriously beautiful, rustic but subtle, durable but very special, too!
And if you’re wondering why someone might hand knit a sweater for their dog, who is, after all, just walking to the dog park to catch a ball or two, the answer is simple. It’s because nothing beats knitting for someone you love!
Designed for Purl Soho by Sole Salvo and modeled by Fern (left), Roxy (middle), and Leila (right).
Materials
- 1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill Worsted, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is approximately 164 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 125 (170, 250, 340, 460, 590) yards required. We used the colors Vintage Celadon and Red Poppy.
- US 6, 16- or 24-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Sizes
XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL)
To fit chest circumference of approximately 12-14 (14-16, 16-20, 20-24, 24-28, 28-32) inches, with 1-3 inches of ease
Finished Chest Circumference: 14¾ (16¾, 20½, 24½, 28¼, 32) inches
Finished Neck Circumference: 11 (12¼, 14¼, 16, 17¾, 19¼) inches
Finished Length From Base Of Neck To Base Of Tail: 11½ (12¾ 15½, 17¾, 21¼, 23¾) inches
Sample: The sweaters shown here are sizes XXS, Small, and Medium, worn with 4, 5, and 6 inches of ease.
Gauge
19 stitches and 27 rows/ rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Pattern
The Lucky Dog Sweater is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
PRINT
What level of difficulty is the Lucky Dog sweater?
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for writing in! I would consider this an easy intermediate pattern, it is very straight forward and includes a few more advanced techniques like short rows and slip slip purls!
Please feel free to reach out with any more questions you have!
Best,
Gianna
I just placed a yarn order (plus the pattern) for the Lucky Dog Sweater. I purchased just one skein if yarn. Could you please make it three and add to my credit card .
Thank you 😊
Suzanne
Hi Suzanne,
Please email us at customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can help you further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
can you make this for a cat
Hi Tatyana,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sure you can make this pattern for a cat! Possibly making the body fit a bit more narrow to accommodate a cats more slender shape.
Please let us know how this goes, happy knitting!
Gianna
Does your free shipping extend to Canada? Is there a bundle with yarn and pattern or should I order separately?
Hi Deanne,
Thanks for writing in! Our economy shipping rate is free just in the US, but we can ship absolutely anything to Canada for $8! There is not a yarn bundle for this pattern so you can order it separately!
All the best,
Gianna
Any suggestions for yarn alternatives? We live in a place that can get really cold in the winter (-40C with windchill) and my small 10lb pups would prefer something a bit cozier.
Thanks so much for any suggestions.
Hi Lianne,
Thanks for reaching out! Our Linen Quill Worsted is a wonderfully warm and hearty yarn but any worsted weight will work for this pattern! Our 100% Merino Worsted Twist is excellent, I would also recommend Manos Del Uruguay Maxima and Serpentina, Madelinetosh Tosh Merino, Woolfolk Tov or Anzula For Better or Worsted (and its machine washable!)
Just be sure to work up a gauge swatch with whichever yarn you decide on to insure that your gauge is consistent with the pattern!
Please let us know how this works out, happy knitting!
Gianna
What colors are on the dogs pictured?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! We used the colors Vintage Celadon and Red Poppy!
All the best,
Gianna
When I went to check out I didn’t get the 10% off that was supposed to be through tonight. How can I get it?
Hi Kimberly,
Please email us at customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can help you further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
I have a chihuahua male, can the underside of the sweater be made smaller to accommodate him without affecting the looks and fit of sweater?
Hi Ana,
Thanks for reaching out! The pattern is written with instructions for a few variations depending on the size and gender of the dog to insure the most comfortable fit without changing the overall look of the sweater!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Do you have suggestions for yarn to use for southern California weather?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend our yarn Lantern or Blue Sky Worsted Cotton! Be sure to work up a gauge swatch with whichever yarn you decide to use to insure that your gauge is consistent with the pattern!
Please let us know how this turns out!
All the best,
Gianna
I am looking for a wool that has lanolin in it because it sheds rain which we have a lot of. I am looking for the Irish ☘️ look
Cathy
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have any yarns that contain much lanolin, but I would recommend our yarn Good Wool since it is the most natural from the sheep yarn we carry and may have a bit on lanolin in it!
All the best,
Gianna
Cute pattern
Where would I address errors in the pattern?
Thank you
Hi Rhonda,
Thanks for reaching out! You can contact us directly at customerservice@purlsoho.com
Best,
Gianna
I have a bichon frise dog and when I measure him, the instruction indicates for a small dog. But I am afraid it will be too large. Do you have sample dog breeds that fit the sizes xxs, xs, s, etc just so I can get an idea?
i.e. large – German shepherd, medium – German pointers…
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! For size reference, the sweaters shown in the photos for the pattern are sizes XXS (worn by Fern with 23⁄4 inches of ease), S (worn by Roxy with 2 inches of ease), M (worn by Leila with 1 inch of ease)!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Do you have any guidance if we’d like to make buttonhole (or larger) hole for the leash by the back of the neck or near the chest area for a harness?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! We do have a tutorial for a Four-Row Yarn Over Buttonhole!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
I am doing a size small for my little dog, so I cast on 62 stitches … in the shirt tail + belly section for female dogs I added 2 stitches with the M1L and M1R … so I was at 64 stitches going into the “join underside + work belly” section … I am interpreting the part where it says to work in stockinette and rib pattern and repeat an increase round every 6 rounds (for a total of 5 more times) because she is size small (the 3rd one in) … increasing 2 stitches every 6 rows 5 times only yields 10 extra stitches … for a total of 76 stitches not 98 … I’m not sure how to get from 76 to 98. Please help! Thank you!
Hi Monique,
Thanks for reaching out! Going in to the “join underside + work belly” section you should have 64 stitches, the you are working the joining Round (right side): [K2, p2] twice, place marker (pm), knit to last 8 stitches, pm, [p2, k2] twice. Then you should be using cable cast method to cast on 22 stitches. Place unique marker and join for working in the round, this should leave you with 86 stitches going into the shaping!
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi there,
I’m currently in the Short Row 2 section of the Yoke portion of the pattern. Is it correct that I should have 11 stitches between the two non-unique markers before I do the P2tog? Somehow I’ve got 12 stitches between the two markers, even though I have the correct number of total stitches. Do you have any idea what I’ve done wrong here?
Hi Filippa,
Thanks for writing in! I believe you are on the right track, not sure where 11 stitches is coming from but it should be an even number of stitches that you are working between the markers in order to keep the rib stitch accurate (sm, k2, *p2, k2, repeat from * to next marker) So 12 stitches should be correct!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m starting the yoke portion. I can do the wrap/turn but don’t understand it. After I turn I’m 10 stitches before the unique marker. How many stitches do I knit and what am I increasing.?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! Once you complete the wrap you will be turning the work and then going directly on to the next row of instruction and working back across the row from the point of the wrapped stitch. So for Short Row 1 (right side): K1, ssk, [k2, p2] twice, remove marker, k2, wrap and turn (wrp-t, Special Instructions) you then should have 75 (85, 103, 121, 139, 157) stitches. Then for Short Row 2 (wrong side) picking up right after you wrap and turn as the last instructions for row 1: [P2, k2] twice, p1, slip slip purl (ssp, see Special Instructions), p1, sm, k2,
*p2, k2, repeat from * to next marker, sm, p1, purl 2 together (p2tog), [p2, k2] twice, remove marker, p2, and then you wrp-t. 73 (83, 101, 119, 137, 155) stitches.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Hi, I’m a bit lost on short row 2 as well. By this point I’ve had three markers on my project (one for the beginning of the round, and two for the edges of the ribbing section). Short row 1 has you remove one marker, then row 2 mentions slipping two markers and then removing one. What’s being removed where? Did I miss adding a marker somewhere? Should there be a marker on both ends of the added center/chest section?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! So at the beginning of the yoke section (row 1) you should have 2 makers already placed and then you place a third in that first round, so you should have 3 going into the next rows! You then remove one of them during the 1st short row!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, I am also having problems with short row 2 . I’ve followed the instructions to * to the next marker,sm,p1, purl 2 together, then it’s says to (p2,k2)twice but this would break the pattern and then it says to remove the marker again(this would be the unique marker all the way across the back. I’m confused. Are my markers in the wrong place?
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for reaching out! My best guess is that your markers may be in the wrong places and it also sounds like you may be missing one stitch marker since there should be 3 including the unique maker (which should not move!) going into Short Row 2, and then you will remove one of the stitch markers in Short Row 2.
I hope this helps but please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello! The dog that I want to knit this sweater for is larger than the XL size measurements. His chest is 36″ and from the base of his neck to the base of his tail is 30″. Do you have adjustments in the pattern for a dog of this size? Thanks!
Hi Rochelle,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we don’t have written instructions for a size larger than the XL, but thank you for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi. Very excited to make this for my dog. I’m ready to start the chest section but confused about the step to M1r at the start of the row. Doesn’t that need to come between two stitches? Pasting the instructions below:
Row 1 (right side): M1R, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1, m1L. [14 (18, 22, 30, 38, 46) stitches]
Hi Tricia,
Thanks for reaching out! For this step you will be M1R on the very first stitch of the row, using the stitch below ad you normally would if the increases was happening further in the row!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m at a loss for this section of the pattern as well. I’ve got 36 stitches on my needle. I understand where to m1r and m1L.
What I’m confused about is the p1, *p2, k2. If I follow this it doesn’t follow the already established ribbing pattern.
Am I supposed to purl the stitch that was just made?
Hi Jaime,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Row 1 (right side): M1R, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2, p1, m1L. and then on the reverse side you K2, *p2, k2, repeat from * to end of row which will re establish the rib pattern!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am looking forward to making this as a gift. I am pretty sure that I need to make a medium (35 pound mutt, beagle like) but when I look at the pattern, I can’t see where I should follow for Medium. can you help? Thank you!
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for writing in! That is such a sweet gift idea! On the last page of the pattern you can find all of the size information, the sizes are XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL) so for a medium you will be following the instructions for the 3rd number within the parentheses! For example in the cast on section it says to Cast on 46 (54, 62, 70, 78, 86) stitches, so for the size medium you would cast on 70 stitches!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you, Gianna! I overlooked it the first time. It’s coming along great, and your online tutorials are super helpful!
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for writing in and thank you for your kind words! I am so glad I could help and that you find our tutorials useful, I can’t wait to hear how the dog sweater turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Again,
I am at the part where I need to join the chest and the back, and the pattern is not making sense to me. It says:
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 seven (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) more times. “Do not turn work at end of last row.Join Chest + BackWith right side facing you, place Back stitches onto right end of needles (opposite end of where yarn is attached).Joining Round 1: With right side still facing you, place unique marker for beginning of round, cable cast on 2 stitches, then working across Back stitches”
If I am working opposite to where the yarn is attached, do I carry it over? I am not picturing what I need to do, and would love some help. Thank you,
Maureen
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for reaching out again! I am happy to help! So you begin by orienting the work so that the right side facing you, you then are going to place Back stitches onto right end of needles, the opposite end of where yarn is attached (so that when you join your work in the round the yarn is at the end and ready to use.) You will then work the first round to join the work! So for that with right side still facing you, you will place your unique marker for the beginning of round, cable cast on 2 stitches, then start working across the Back stitches!
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello, I’m having trouble with this section as well, I know you have explained but I can’t get it wrapped around my brain can you you please help? Thank you…
Hi Annemarie,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! Are you making the swearer for a female or a male? The pattern is a bit different between the two, they will essentially be worked the same way but I will be able to better explain if I know which one you are working on!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m sorry, I didn’t clarify I’m making a male sweater, I really could use your help not understanding the directions and my furry grandson is cold 🥶 lol 😂
Thank you…
Hi Annemarie,
Great! I am happy to help! For the joining round you should have previously placed 2 stitch markers, you will then begin the round [K2, p2] twice top the marker, slip marker, knit to next marker, slip marker, [p2, k2] two more times, then you will cable cast on 14 (18, 22, 30, 38, 46) stitches depending on the size you are making. You will then place another unique marker and join for working in the round. 66 (76, 92, 108, 124, 140) stitches total
I hope this helps, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks I will give it a go,
Would the xxs fit a four pound chihuahua?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! The XXS size should would for a chihuahua, but I do recommend measuring the dog and comparing it to the sizes of the pattern to insure that is the correct size!
Warmly,
Gianna
I have a deeper-chested dog. If you do the additional increases in the increase rounds in the belly, do you need to do additional decreases in the yoke to ensure that the neck is not overly large? If so, how would you suggest doing those additional decreases?
Hi Galena,
Thanks for reaching out! If your dog is particularly deep chested you can remove a round between Increase Rounds, and add 1 or 2 more Increase Rounds. Just be sure to keep track of how many additional increases you made, and add that to your stitch total. This shouldn’t cause the need to add extra decreases in the neck area!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I see an errata noted on RAVELRY but I cannot find on your website. Is there an errata for this pattern ? I just purchased it and want to start it right away.
Hi Teresa,
Thanks for reaching out! yes you can find our Errata here!
Warmly,
Gianna
Your link to the Errata works, but there is nothing for the Lucky Dog Sweater there. Please clarify. Thanks.
Hi Sharron,
Thanks for reaching out again! It is in the errata but it is under the full title “SOLE SALVO FOR PURL SOHO: LUCKY DOG SWEATER” not Lucky Dog Sweater, so you will just need to scroll down a bit further to the S section!
Warmly,
Gianna
Just here to say that my very large rhodesian ridgeback is also named Fern, and she will be getting one of these sweaters this winter <3. Thanks for the adorable pattern and beautiful yarn!
Hi Alex,
Thanks for reaching out! That is wonderful, I bet Fern will love this beautiful sweater! Please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am making this for a male Boston Terrier. I finished the rib and I’m not sure where to go from there. The next instruction title is Shirt Tail and Belly: Female Dogs. If I skip that section and go to Join Underside and Work Belly I am missing the two stitches that are increased. What part of the section under Female Dogs should I follow? There is no male section. Help! I can’t continue.
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for reaching out! There is in fact a section for Male dogs! It is titled Shirt Tail + Belly: Male Dogs, and you can find it directly under the Shirt Tail + Belly: Female Dogs section! Once you complete the rib section you will move directly down there.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
That section isn’t on my download. The section following Shirt Tail and Belly: Female Dogs is followed by Join Underside + Work Belly. I seem to be missing something.
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for writing in again! It should be just past the section Join Underside + Work Belly (since that is a sub section for the Shirt Tail and Belly: Female Dogs) It could be on the next page of your download if you aren’t seeing it on the same page as the Shirt Tail and Belly: Female Dogs sections. It will be the next section in the larger font.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello. Is there a machine washable yarn (with the same gauge) you’d suggest as a substitute? Thanks!
Hi Pauline,
Thanks for reaching out! We have a few machine washable worsted weight yarns you could substitute for this pattern! I would recommend Anzula For Better or Worsted, MADELINETOSH Tosh Merino, MANOS DEL URUGUAY Serpentina or even Blue Sky Worsted Cotton! I do always suggest working a gauge swatch when using a different yarn than recommended in the pattern to insure that you are consistent!
I hope this helps and please let us know how it turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks so much! I’ll check those out.
Love this pattern! Knitted a couple of small sweaters for my Boston! He seems to like them. Added a single row button hole for his harness leash.
Hi Ellie,
Thanks for reaching out and sharing your tip! Adding a single row button hole for the leash is such a great idea!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m having trouble with the joining row. I’m making the medium size and just added the stitches for the joining row for the second time. I’m confused about round 1, specifically *p2,k2, repeat from* to last two stitches, p2.” I thought the row ended with the added stitches and that is where the “unique” marker is. This would seem to end with the ribbing after the cast on stitches. Are there then 2 purl stitches after the 8 stitches of the ribbing that follows the cast on? The pictures indicate that there is ribbing throughout the underside but I don’t see that in the pattern.
(I found the section for male dogs. It was a printer problem. It eliminated the entire bottom section. It is fixed.)
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for reaching! I am glad to hear that you figured out the missing section! For the CONTINUE IN 2 X 2 RIB: Round 1, it is correct as written. Since at this point you have not joined the work in the round (and you shouldn’t join it till later in the pattern) this will form the initial ribbing along the end of the sweater! You will p2,k2, repeat from* to last two stitches, p2. So this will establish the 2×2 rib pattern.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
We may be referencing different sections. The heading for the section where I have stopped is titled “Join Underside + Work Belly” . I added the 30 stitches, added the Unique marker and have reached Joining Round 1. I don’t understand the sentence. The unique marker is before the P2, K2 . If I ignore the unique marker and consider the P2 K2 to be the end rather than the start It would seem that there is an extra P2 (“last 2 stitches”). It is very confusing because I don’t know the beginning or end of a row and don’t understand where the extra two stitches are and why, if it is ribbing being added, it isn’t P2, K2.
Hi Carolyn,
Ok gotcha! I was thinking you were in the section above this one… For round one, after you Cable Cast on 30 stitches and join the work in the round you will [K2, p2] twice, then slip the marker, knit to next marker, sm, *p2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2 (these should be the last 2 stitches before reaching the “unique” end of round marker.) I think you may be getting the markers confused, you should have placed 2 markers at the beginning of the Shirt Tail + Belly section and then placed a unique marker for joining in the round. So in other words- you K2 P2 till you reach the 1st marker, slip the marker, then you will knit to the next marker, slip that marker, then begin the ribbing again P2 K2 till you come to the unique marker at the end of the round, purling the last 2 stitches before the unique marker. These last 2 stitches of the round are purl stitches because the round begins with 2 knit stitches. When working in the round the the first 2 and last 2 are touching and ending with 2 purls maintains the rib stitch pattern.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
I know where the first two markers are. It is the placement of the Unique marker, which, by the directions, should be after the 30 stitch cast on that is confusing me relative to the beginning and end of the row and the 2 purl stitches. I am fine through sm P2, K2.
Is the next set of P2, K2 in the cast on stitches? Maybe I finally understand. It is p2, K2 across the cast on stitches?? It is still confusing. I think, after I place the unique marker, I join and continue the round until I reach the P2, P2 and then proceed with ribbing across the cast on stitches. that whole section is very unclear. Do I finally have it right?
Hi Carolyn,
Thats for writing in again. The Unique marker should be placed to indicate where you have joined the work in the round. So I think you have it right now- once you have cast on the stitches you should have placed the unique marker and joined the work in the round. You will K2 P2 till you reach the 1st marker, slip the marker, then you will knit across the stitches to the next marker, slip that marker, then begin the ribbing again P2 K2 till you come to the unique marker at the end of the round, purling the last 2 stitches before the unique marker.
I hope that clears things up!
Gianna
Hi there, before I bought the yarn for this pattern, I wanted to make sure I purchase enough.
I have a Cardigan welsh corgi who seems to fit the size small in the pattern for neck/chest, but is a very long lady at approx 20” from base of neck to base of tail. Will I need more than (2) skeins of the recommended yarn for this pattern if I need to increase the length?
Thanks!
Grace & Bunny
Hi Grace & Bunny,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend buying 3 skeins just to be safe and in the event you don’t end up using the 3rd skein you can return it for store credit within 6 months as long as it is in the original skein! Also, the pattern does include instruction to lengthen the body of the sweater!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello, I am working on the dog sweater in section titled
Shirt tail + belly: Male dogs
What do the terms pm and sm refer to?
Hi Bev,
Thanks for reaching out! The terms PM and SM refer to your stitch markers, PM means to place marker. So when you see pm come up in the pattern you should place a stitch marker on your needle! SM means slip marker, so when you see this come up in the pattern it means you will slip the marker from your right to left needled and continue knitting!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m knitting this for a cousin’s dog who has developed alopecia….
I’ve knit this first two set up rows, but am stumped on how to complete the 3rd. Any help you can give me would be appreciated. Thank You, Bonnjoe
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for reaching out! Basically for the 3rd foundation row you are are working a variation of a cable stitch. You will start off K1, knit the second stitch on the left needle letting the first stitch temporarily fall off the left needle (you can also place this stitch on a cable needle to hold it), you will then place that fallen stitch back onto the left needle (essentially crossing it over the “2nd stitch” when putting it back on the needle) , p2, you will then repeat these steps from the * to last 2 stitches, k2.
I hope this clears things up and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello Again! This time I’m having trouble with a section you previously addressed, but I’m still not understanding. It is the section that should join the chest and back. As your previous writer, I have put the stitches on the needle as described. I have the left end without the yarn, I put the chest stitches back on a holder because I don’t know how to proceed. The yarn is on the right needle. Which needle has the two stitch increase and the unique marker and, if I continue with the yarn, what do I do with the chest stitches? It looks like the only way it works it I the wrong side faces me. That way I would work back to the chest stitches and they would be at the end of the round.
Hi Carolyn,
For the Join Chest + Back section you will be placing the Back stitches onto the end of your right needles (opposite end of where yarn is attached) you will then begin with right side still facing you, place unique marker for beginning of round, and with the working yarn you will cable cast on 2 stitches, then begin working across the back stitches! You will then work in the established rib pattern: p2, [k2, p2] twice, sm, knit to next marker, sm, [p2, k2] twice, p2. Then you will cable cast on 2 more stitches and begin working across Chest stitches.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am going on vacation and just realized it called for linen quill worsted and I have just linen quill?! Do you think I could use two strands of linen quill instead? I don’t have the time to get more yarn before I leave! Help:) Jane sawyer
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could use Linen Quill doubled! I recommend working a gauge swatch with the yarn doubled first to see if your consistent with the pattern or if you will need to adjust the needle size at all to make sure you are accurate!
Please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Just to be absolutely clear so that I can proceed because the directions keep confusing me–the cast on stitches, two each, are at either side of the chest ribbing and the unique marker is at the end of the chest stitches and before the two cast ons, ie the left or end of the chest ribbing with the right side facing? The only other markers are at the end and beginning of the stockinette stitches?
I have been confused ever since the “joining”, “nonjoining” section that put the yarn at my right and called for joining the back and leaving out the chest or putting it at the end and not the beginning.
I hope you can help me unravel the issues. I have managed to join all parts but it has left me with confusion about the unique marker and the cast on stitches.
Hi Carolyn,
That is correct, I think you should be okay to continue. Just be sure that your unique marker is placed to signify where you have joined the work in the round as I explained above!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am at the Chest step and am stuck. It says to place chest stitches onto needles. What needles? Is it the straight needles? Then it says with right side facing join yarn – what am I joining to?
Hi Jodie,
Thanks for reaching out! At the beginning of the Divide Chest + Back section you will have put the chest stitches on hold, so for the Chest section you are then placing them back onto your circular needles after working the back section a re-joining the working yarn so that you can begin knitting and continue on with the chest section. After you complete the chest section you will then be joining the work back in the round for the Join Chest + Back section!
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi. I’m working on the Shirt Tail + Belly Male Dogs section. It seems that the increase row is row 7/right side. Is that correct? If so, then the later increase rows are on even/wrong side rows & it doesn’t make sense to me. Am I counting rows incorrectly? Thanks for your help.
P.S. I tried to submit this question yesterday, but my laptop froze & I’m not sure if it went through. Apologies if it’s a duplicate.
Hi Pauline,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Shirt Tail + Belly Male Dogs section you will work rows 1 and 2 and then for Rows 3–6 you will repeat rows 1 and 2 two more times! You will then work the increase row (technically round 7!) Then you will continue working in stockinette stitch and rib pattern as established, repeating the Increase Row every 10th (20th, 8th, 10th, 10th, 10th) row 2 (1, 3, 3, 3, 3) more time(s) depending on the size you are making until you have 52 (58, 70, 78, 86, 94) stitches!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi. Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately, this is still confusing. Since the first increase row is round 7, why is the repeat increase row on even-numbered rows (in my case, the very next row:8) and not odd-numbered rows? Am I supposed to do a m1p on row 8 instead of a m1L since it’s a purl row? Maybe I’m thinking of this in the wrong way. Thanks again for your help. It’s much appreciated.
Hi Pauline,
No worries, I am happy to help! Basically it doesn’t matter if you are on an odd or even numbered row as much as it matters if you are on the right or wrong side of the fabric! Since you are working the increase every 8th row, that means you will begin by working the increase (right side) then you will work 7 rows ending with a wrong side row. Then for the 8th row you will work the increase on the right side! Here is the breakdown to help you visualize: Work Increase Row, you will then work Wrong Side (row 1), Right Side (row 2), Wrong Side (row 3), Right Side (row 4), Wrong Side (row 5), Right Side (row 6), Wrong Side (row 7), then repeat the increase on the right side, 8th row!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Thanks so much, Gianna! I understand now. 🙂
Hi, back to my last note.
Looking at the right side, the unique marker should be before or after the two stitch increase on the left side, the end of the chest stitches? I think I compensated correctly when joining but I’m not sure.
Thank you!
Carolyn
Hi Carolyn,
That sounds correct to me, if you would like you can send us a photo of your work to our email customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can double check the markers are in the correct place.
Warmly,
Gianna
I sent the picture last week. Have you seen it? Can you tell me if the “unique” marker is in the right place?
Hi Carolyn,
Sorry for the late response, we have been very short staffed this week so we are working hard to catch up on all of the questions and comments as well as emails coming in! I saw your photos but was a bit confused since I thought I was checking the unique marker directly after placing it, but from the emails it sounds like your may have moved the marker when you began the short rows so I can’t be for sure if it was in the correct place to begin with. My best advice would be to continue working and finish the sweater! If you run into any problems down the road you can comment back!
Warmly,
Gianna
The Unique marker was placed before the addition of the two stitches. What the photo shows is my continuation and the first short row. I was not sure I should continue because I wasn’t confident that I had initially placed the marker in the correct place because of my confusion with joining. What you see is the back, the two added stitches, the chest, unique marker and two added stitches. Does that help?
Carolyn
Hi Carolyn,
In your email you said that you moved the marker after working the first short row, so if that is true I can’t say for sure if the stitch marker was in the correct spot to begin with since it was loved. I would suggest to keep working and if you happen to run into a problem let me know!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
I am preparing to complete the joining in the round for the underbelly (for a male dog) and am a bit confused on how to do the cable cast on at the end of the row. I have reviewed the linked how to, but am unsure on how to start since there are no stitches on my left needle after finishing the row in pattern before the cable cast on.
Thanks,
Lillian
Hi Lillian,
Thanks for reaching out! You will work the cable cast on by flipping your work so that the stitches are in your left hand, you will then cable cast on 2!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
I would classify myself as an advanced beginner and am happy to report that I’ve gotten the this doggie sweater finished up to the “Sleeves” section found on page 6.
Although I happen to have a set of 4 double-pointed needles in the correct size that I found in my MIL’s knitting supplies that were passed down to me, I’ve never used them. I am stuck at the point of picking up and knitting this next part for the sleeves. I have tried to search for some videos and while I sort of think I know what needs to happen none of the videos I’ve found have the exact same circumstances.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend checking out our Double Pointed Needles tutorial and our Picking Up Stitches tutorial!
Warmly,
Gianna
This is an adorable pattern would be even better with a buttonhole on the back to accommodate attaching to a harness for walking.
How terrible would it be if you threw the finished garment in the washer? I can’t help to think about the practicality of a dog sweater that needs hand washing. I bought the pattern to make for my neighbor, what should I tell her about the care of it?
Hi Zia,
Thanks for reaching out! Did you use the Linen Quill Worsted? If so I have heard of a few cases where people have been able to machine wash the yarn in cold water on a gentle or “hand wash” cycle and air dry! I would suggest possibly making a swatch and trying this out yourself before giving it to your neighbor!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks Gianna! I haven’t made it yet I have to order two more hanks. I really want to use it because it’s gorgeous, I have one in my stash just because I grab one of just about every new yarn you come out with to see how it is and they’re gorgeous, I’m making the size medium so there’s plenty of extra yardage for some washing machine experiments, I’ll let you know it goes
I have finished the sweater. It may have a couple of glitches that don’t show and it fits. I have a skein left over. How can I return it?
Carolyn
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for writing in, I am glad to hear that you finished the sweater! Please check out our RETURN POLICY page, it has all the information you will need regarding yarn returns!
All the best,
Gianna
I am currently working the “shirt tail + belly: male dogs”. I am at “Rows 3-6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more time.” What does this mean?
Does it mean –
Row 3: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times
Row 4: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times
Row 5: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more time
Row 6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times
So total of 16 Rows?
OR does it mean total of 4 Rows where
Row 3: Repeat Row 1
Row 4: Repeat Row 2
Row 5: Repeat Row 1
Row 6: Repeat Row 2
Hi Kay,
Thanks for reaching out! The second option is correct! For Row 3, you’ll follow the instructions for Row 1, for Row 4 you’ll follow the instructions for Row 2, and so on. You should have worked only 4 additional rows (6 rows total) by the end of that direction!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Thank you!
Is anyone willing to explain the “yoke” portion of the pattern to me over the phone?
I’ve read it SO many times, have made SO many mistakes, and am getting extremely frustrated as I’m an experienced knitter, but I believe I am simply reading more (or not enough) into the instructions. Please, my dog is waiting for his sweater:)
If someone is willing, I’ll provide my cell number. Thank you.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! You can contact our customer service team at customerservice@purlsoho.com for more assistance and set up a phone or video call!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you Gianna,
I really appreciate your response, thank you.
Peace and Blessings.
Lisa