Seamed Socks
For us, and maybe for you too, dusty knitting pamphlets from the early 20th century are captivating literature, full of surprising ideas and timeless inspiration. Our Seamed Socks nod to this history and follow a path taken by some of our knitting ancestors who chose to seam their socks together rather than knit them in the round. The result is sock-making at its easiest!
For our pair, we used Anzula’s Squishy, an incredibly soft hand-dyed superwash yarn with generous yardage and a touch of nylon for durability. Choose from a beautiful palette of off-kilter colors, and for a little extra fun, pick a second color for a whimsical contrast sole.
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
If it’s true that there is no greater display of love than to give what you’ve made by hand, I would encourage you to try making (and giving!) a pair of our Seamed Socks. They may just become part of your own knitting history! -Kristy
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Kristina McGowan. Click here to see even more of Kristina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoSeamedSocks. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Color A: 1 skein of Anzula’s Squishy, 80% superwash merino, 10% cashmere and 10% nylon. Approximately 250-350 yards required. This color is Au Natural.
- Color B: 1 skein of Anzula’s Squishy. Approximately 84-117 yards required. This color is Seaside.
- Three 8-inch US 2 (3 mm) double pointed needles (or size needed to get the correct gauge)
NOTE: Two skeins of yarn should be enough to make 2 pairs of each size except the Men’s Large.
Shop our wonderful collection of fingering-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
30 stitches and 38 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
Women’s Small (Women’s Medium, Women’s Large/Men’s Medium, Men’s Large)
- Finished Foot Circumference: 7 ½ (8 ½, 9 ½, 10 ½) inches (unstretched)
- Foot Length: Adjustable
- Height from Top of Heel to Top of Cuff (unfolded): 5 ½ (5 ½, 6, 6 ½) inches (unblocked)
SAMPLE: We knit a Women’s Medium.
Notes
Although you use double pointed needles in this pattern, you don’t ever actually work in the round. Mostly you will use two double pointed needles as if they were normal straight needles, but when you get to the Gusset, you will use all three needles for a short period of time. You need the extra one at that point to accommodate the shape of the fabric. Don’t worry… It’ll all become clear as you work!
Slip all stitches purlwise.
Pattern
Cuff and Leg
With Color A, cast 54 (62, 70, 78) stitches onto one double pointed needle. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (right side): *K2, p2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2,
Row 2 (wrong side): *P2, k2, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 2 inches from the cast-on edge, ending with a wrong side row.
Next Row (right side): Knit.
Next Row (wrong side): Purl.
Repeat the last 2 rows for 3 ½ (3 ½, 4, 4 ½) inches, ending with a wrong side row.
Increase Row (right side): K2, m1R, knit to last 2 stitches, m1L, k2. [56 (64, 72, 80) stitches]
Purl 1 row.
Next Row (right side): K42 (48, 54, 60), place the last 28 (32, 36, 40) stitches just worked onto a stitch holder or waste yarn. Cut yarn and slip remaining 14 (16, 18, 20) stitches onto a second needle. [28 (32, 36, 40) total stitches: 14 (16, 18, 20) stitches on each of two needles]
NOTE: You will work the on-hold stitches later for the Top of Foot.
Turn work so the wrong side is facing you and fold the right and left sides inward so that their edges meet. Slip the 14 (16, 18, 20) stitches from one needle onto the other so that all the live stitches are on one needle. [28 (32, 36, 40) stitches]
Heel Flap
With the wrong side facing you, join Color B and…
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1, purl to end of row.
Row 2 right side): *Slip 1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 2 (2, 2, 2 ½) inches, ending with Row 1.
Turn Heel
Row 1 (right side): K16 (18, 20, 22), k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Slip 1, k6, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 4: Slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 5: Slip 1, k8, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 6: Slip 1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 7: Slip 1, k10, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 8: Slip 1, p11, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 9: Slip 1, k12, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 10: Slip 1, p13, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 11: Slip 1, k14, k2tog, k0 (1, 1, 1), turn.
Women’s Small Only: Row 12: Slip 1, p14, p2tog. [16 stitches remain] Cut yarn and move on to the Gusset and Sole section.
All Other Sizes:
Row 12: Slip 1, p15, p2tog, p – (1, 1, 1), turn.
Row 13: Slip 1, k16, k2tog, k – (0, 1, 1), turn.
Women’s Medium Only: Row 14: Slip 1, p16, p2tog. [18 stitches remain] Cut yarn and move on to the Gusset and Sole section.
All Other Sizes:
Row 14: Slip 1, p17, p2tog, p – (0, 1, 1), turn.
Row 15: Slip 1, k18, k2tog, k – (-, 0, 1), turn.
Women’s Large/Men’s Medium Only: Row 16: Slip 1, p18, p2tog.[20 stitches remain] Cut yarn and move on to the Gusset and Sole section.
Men’s Large Only:
Row 16: Slip 1, p19, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 17: Slip 1, k20, k2tog, turn.
Row 18: Slip 1, p20, p2tog. [22 stitches remain] Cut yarn.
Gusset and Sole
With the right side facing you and using another double pointed needle, with Color B, pick up 14 (14, 14, 17) stitches along the right side of the Heel Flap.
With the same needle, knit 8 (9, 10, 11) stitches from Heel.
With another double pointed needle, knit the 8 (9, 10, 11) Heel stitches, then pick up 14 (14, 14, 17) stitches along the left side of the Heel Flap. [44 (46, 48, 56) stitches: 22 (23, 24, 28) stitches on each needle]
Using a third needle, work over these 44 (46, 48, 56) stitches as follows…
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 2 (right side): K1, slip 1, k1, pass slipped stitch over (psso), knit to last 3 stitches of second needle, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat the last two rows until 28 (32, 36, 40) stitches remain, ending with Row 1.
NOTE: As you work the decreases, it will become possible to work the stitches over two needles instead of three.
Work even in stockinette stitch until Sole measures 7 (7, 7 ¼, 7 ¾) inches or 2 (2 ½, 2 ¾, 3) inches less than desired length from toe to back of heel, ending with a purl row and making note of the total number of rows worked.
Here’s a guideline for final sock lengths:
- US women’s size 5-5 ½ shoe (European 36) = 8 ½ inches
- US women’s size 6-6 ½ shoe (European 37) = 9 inches
- US women’s size 7-7 ½ shoe (European 38) = 9 ¼ inches
- US women’s size 8-8 ½ shoe (European 39) = 9 ⅝ inches
- US women’s size 9-9 ½ shoe/men’s size 7-7 ½ shoe (European 40) = 10 inches
- US women’s size 10-10 ½ shoe/men’s size 8-8 ½ shoe (European 41) = 10 ¼ inches
- US women’s size 11-11 ½ shoe/men’s size 9-9 ½ shoe (European 42) = 10 ½ inches
- US men’s size 10-10 ½ shoe (European 43) = 10 ¾ inches
- US men’s size 11-11 ½ shoe (European 44) = 11 inches
Shape Toe
Row 1 (right side): K1, slip 1, k1, psso, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 10 stitches remain. Place stitches on spare needle or waste yarn.
Top of Foot
With the right side facing you and with Color A, join yarn to 28 (32, 36, 40) stitches placed on hold for Top of Foot.
Work in stockinette stitch for the same number of rows that you worked for the Sole, plus 14 (14, 14, 17) rows.
Shape Toe as for Sole.
Finish
Seam the sides of the Leg together, using Mattress Stitch. Do the same for the sides of the Foot.
Graft the Toe closed using color A and the Kitchener Stitch.
Weave in the ends. Block as desired and enjoy your Seamed Socks!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Just a question:
Concerned that the mattress stitch side seaming would “dig in” or be uncomfortable -i.e. rubbing ” on the sides of the foot. Has anyone had this problem? Thanks
Hi Janice!
The side seams of the socks are surprisingly innocuous and although everyone reacts differently, there shouldn’t be problems with them digging in or hurting in any way. The seams create about the same amount of bulk as the more traditional pick-up does. It’s useful to remember that in-the-round socks have a ridge of fabric at the gusset! I hope this helps and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Have you ever thought about trying the Bickford seam, it’s fantastic for a very flat seam!
Hello Eileen!
Thanks for this suggestion! We’ll definitely look into this technique for future use! Happy knitting! -Alyson
Can these be made on circular needles I hope?
Hi Bonnie,
Although these socks are seamed and not worked in the round, we have several other sock patterns you might try that are worked in the round, our Pixel Stitch Socks (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/06/22/pixel-stitch-socks/), Striped Crew Socks (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/05/01/whits-knits-striped-crew-socks/) and Little Cable Knee Highs (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2012/11/21/whits-knits-little-cable-knee-highs/) are a few favorites. Happy knitting!
Kristy
I can’t even tell you have long I’ve wanted to make a pair of socks like this! I received a pair a few years back and I can’t shake the thought of making my own. This is a great tutorial — still looks difficult with my virgin eyes but perhaps if I give it a go, it will crystallize in my mind.
Hi Lana! That’s great to hear! If you get stuck in any way, please just let us know! Good luck and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Lana, I’ve made a lot of socks and reading the entire pattern through still looks confusing to me. Consider starting it and just doing what it says, one step at a time. Don’t think about the next part of the directions until you get there. I have found that often patterns “unfold” as I knit, even when they don’t make sense to me as I read them. Sometimes you just have to trust the pattern. Good luck!
This is the way I tackle patterns that are difficult to comprehend reading them fir the first the.
One reason our ancestors did socks this way was to be able to mend them, or more precisely, to knit another heel and bottom-of-the-foot when the first one wore out. In some countries, where the top of the sock was in a nice pattern, the part around the foot was plain white wool, so it could be replaced when worn out.
Even though I can knit socks with 5 needles, or witn one cable needle, I will try this pattern just so I can say I know how to knit socks on just two needles.
Hi Sharon,
Thank you for sharing this history with us! It’s really interesting and we’re so glad that you’ll be giving the pattern a try!
Kristy
Love this idea…I think a pattern for worsted weight “boot sock” – say on a 7 or 8 needle would also be a worthwhile endeavor…hint hint….
Hi Susan!
They would definitely be warm and cozy, and with that needle size, likely knit up quickly! Thanks for the idea and for writing in!
Kristy
thank you!!
Perfect timing! I have been wanting to make socks like this for my son…he has many pairs of handmade socks but he is notorious for creating holes in the bottoms of them. I have seen older patterns for this type of replaceable soles, but they were written in a such a way that I couldn’t quite follow them. So thank you immensely for the detailed close up pictures and clearly written pattern! This will make my mending pile smaller and my life much easier. Now, if you could create this for dk and worsted weight? 😉
Hi Elizabeth!
Thank you for your kind comment! We so glad that you’ve found the pattern easy to follow and hope that you enjoy making the socks! I don’t imagine it would be too difficult to create a pair in a heavier weight and you’ve given us something to think about! Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Hi Kristy, I do love your patterns at Purl Soho, so simple and so elegant, and I have always appreciated their clear instructions and photos. If I ever have any questions they are generally answered in your comment section. I would like to second that request for you to come up with a sock pattern with an easily replaceable sole and heel. “My husband is an anvil on socks” I once heard someone say, and it’s true. I barely get them knit and he has a hole in one. The above pattern looks good , but I am not sure how easy it would be to replace the sole on it. Have you tried to do that yet?
Many thanks for all your patterns, Kerry
Hi Kerry,
We’re so glad that you like the socks and thank you for your kind comment! The idea of being able to replace the soles on the socks is very intriguing. We do have a bit of a benefit in modern times with the yarns we have to choose from and many like Anzula’s Squishy use a touch of nylon, which helps them last a bit longer, but I don’t think it would be too difficult to undo and reknit the soles if needed. You would have to undo the grafted tip of the toe and undo the side seams, but it would definitely be doable! A fun thing to think about and experiment with for sure! Sending good luck with the socks and thanks again for writing in!
Kristy
Hi Kristy, I made them and he likes them and yes, the sole will be fairly easy to replace. On the second sock, I did knit the sock top circularly as I found it easier. Because I chose dark colours, I found sewing up the sideseams a bit difficult. Also, next time I will count the rows when knitting the insteps and the soles, as I had a little difficulty matching their lengths. Thanks so much, Kerry
I have very heavy legs and ankles. I have a problem finding ladies socks that will stretch enough to fit over my legs. And I am diabetic. How can I adjust the sizing to fit my legs? I live in South Texas, and usually wear flip flop sandels for shoes until the cold moves in. Can you help me work out sizing to knit some yummy soft socks, please?
Hi Marsha,
Do you have a pair of socks that you like a lot that you could measure the leg width and foot length of? We’d be happy to help you figure out what size of the sock might work best. The foot length of the pattern is entirely adjustable, which helps make things a bit easier to customize.
Kristy
What an interesting pattern! Sharon Howell’s comment about a patterned upper and a plain sole has me thinking … and I think I’ll start out in the round for the leg, then switch to straights at the heel flap as instructed.
When i was a child in Scotland, my Mother made all my father’s socks this way. She would sometimes double up the yarn for the sole which made them super comfy for hiking. I’,m off to iceland and Scotland next week so I am going to seek out some traditional yarns to make these socks specifically for snow boots and our -20 C temperatures.
Thanks
Hi Alison,
Doubling the yarn for the sole is such a neat idea, thanks for sharing! Happy travels!
Kristy
As I read comments about needing to replace sock soles, it struck me that one could use a contrasting yarn for stitching the sides of the sole and for grafting (or useing a 3-needle bind-off to join) the toe. That way, there would be no worries about clipping the wrong thread when undoing the sock for repairs. If few glimpses of navy, charcoal, or red show on this otherwise neutral sock, most people woiuldn’t be bothered, and shoes would cover those errant colors.
Hi Pam,
What a great idea! Thanks for sharing!
Kristy
Am I missing something or counting wrong? I’ve knit to where it says to M1L and R, the Purl one row. Then knit 42 stitches and put the remaining 28 stitches on a holder. I should have 56 stitches, but this adds up to 70. Please HELP!
Hi Heidi,
It’s an easy fix and let me try to make it a bit clearer! For the Women’s Small, after increasing 2 stitches (the M1L and M1R row) and purling 1 row, you’ll have 56 stitches on your needle. You’ll then knit 42 stitches and put 28 of the stitches that you just worked onto a holder or piece of waste yarn. It’s important that the stitches are ones that you just worked. You will have knit 42 stitches, but you only put 28 of those stitches onto a holder. You’ll then cut the yarn and slip the remaining 14 stitches onto a second needle. Please let us know if this helps clarify! We’re here to help!
Kristy
Thank you, I’m going to try 2 at a time
I reckon this construction also lends itself well to “hiking” socks, where you can reinforce the foot part (by using a different stitch, or thicker yarn- provided you can calculate the different gauges) for extra cushioning. I might try it!
(I haven’t managed to knit a pair of socks as such before, just the one 😉
This is just an amazing pattern! Thankyou sooo much for producing it!
As i knit very quickly with one needle under my arm , this pattern is ideal!
I have knit a pattern this way before however there were two seams to sew up so it was more difficult to construct than yours.
I shall use the Bickford seam for seaming to produce a very flat seam.
Your very detailed photos are soo helpful! Thankyou once again!
Thank you for this lovely sock pattern! And for us who are maths-challenged, would you please offer a version for worsted weight yarn?
Hello Tami!
We’re so happy to hear you like these socks! We don’t have a worsted weight version on deck at the moment, but we will keep your suggestion on file for future consideration! Thanks again and happy knitting! -Alyson
I am confused about 2 things. The first is when to start counting the rows for the sole of the foot. Do I start from the back of the heel or when the heel shaping ends and you start the “straightway”. The second confusing part is the top of the foot. If I add 14 extra rows to the number of rows knitted for the sole, wouldn’t that top too long?
Hi Lynn!
You will start counting the rows for the Sole just as you finish the decreases for the Gusset and prepare to work stockinette stitch. The rows in stockinette stitch are the rows that you will count. Adding 14 extra rows for the Top of the Foot helps to match the length of the Gusset and allows the two pieces (Sole and Top of Foot) to be the same length. I hope this helps clarify and please let us know if you have any further questions! Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Hi Purl Soho! I love your patterns! If I were to simply measure the top of foot in inches instead of counting rows, am I correct that it would be 9 inches total (including the 14 extra rows) before beginning decreases for the women’s size small? Thank you! 🙂
Hi Chloe,
Thanks for the question! As per the pattern, the women’s size small is 7.5″ around and the length is adjustable based on the wearer’s shoe size. If you scroll down toward the end of the pattern, you’ll see the suggested lengths based on shoe size. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Is there a way to print this pattern so that I don’t use up so many pieces of paper? Also, parts of the directions aren’t printing. Suggestions?
Hello Margo!
Yes, we do have a PRINT feature available on the top right corner of each pattern and tutorial. Once you click that button you will also have the option to remove the pictures for a more concise printout of the pattern. Hope this helps and enjoy! -Alyson
Duh….so easy and I just didn’t see it! Thank you, Alyson!
This is my first foray into knitting socks. I have been following along fine until I got to row 2 of “Turn Heel”. The instruction says to turn to the wrong side and … But the yarn is now on the left hand needle and there are 11 stitches (women’s medium) left on the right needle. Which stitches am I to slip and purl and how? I am totally confused. Please help.
Hi Shih-Ping,
Thanks for writing! For the Women’s Medium, you should have 32 stitches on your needle to start when you’re ready to turn your heel. On the first row, which will begin with the right side of your work facing you, you will knit 18 stitches, then knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 and then turn. You will not work to the end of the row. Turning in the middle of the row is what will eventually create the curve of your heel. I know this can seem confusing, but if you follow each Row step by step, the curve of the heel will start to show and things will become clearer. On Row 2, you will start out by having 20 stitches on your left needle and 11 on your right, and the wrong side of your work will be facing you. You will then work the stitches on your left needle and slip 1, purl 5, purl two together, purl 1, and then turn. Please let us if this helps clarify or if you have any further questions! We’re here to help and don’t want you to be confused or stuck in any way.
Kristy
Thanks, Kristy, for your advice. Trusting to the instruction, I doggedly followed along and the heel and gusset slowly and miraculously began to take shape! Thanks again.
Hi Shih-Ping,
We’re so glad it worked out! Thanks for letting us know! And most importantly, congratulations on turning your first sock heel!
Kristy
I’m having trouble with the heel turn for women’s medium. I’ve pulled out the stitches and tried again but I still can’t find my mistake. On row 13, I slip 1 and knit 16 but I only have 1 more stitch, not enough for the decrease. The other side has 2 unused stitches.
Hi Heather,
We’ll figure it out! Heels can be tricky! Are you starting with 32 stitches on your needle for the Women’s Medium? That is often the easiest way to spot if your count is off and you’re inexplicably left short on one side. Let us know if you’re starting with 32 and if you are, we’ll go from there to try to figure out what might be happening!
Kristy
Hi Kristy–
I’m making these socks for a friend of mine, but I’m having trouble deciding what size sock I should knit. He’s a size 12.5-13 in Men’s socks. Probably a Men’s Large?
Thanks!
I meant 12.5-13 in men’s shoe
Hi Bekah,
Thanks for writing! According to the Craft Yarn Council (http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/footsize.html), the standard length for a Men’s 12.5-14 shoe is 11.5 inches, and the nice thing about this pattern is that the length is adjustable! The toe shaping for the Men’s Large takes about 3″, so following the instructions for the Men’s Large, you could knit the sole for a total of 8.5 inches before beginning the toe shaping and have a final length of 11.5. I hope this helps and we’re here to answer any further questions you may have!
Kristy
This is perfect! Thanks so much, Kristy!
Hi,
Can I start with two needles (not double-pointed) and add the third needle in later?
Thea
Hi Thea,
Yes, absolutely! For this pattern, two double pointed needles are used as if they were normal straight needles for most of the pattern, until you get to the Gusset, where you will use three needles for a short period of time. You need the extra needle at that point to accommodate the shape of the fabric. I hope this helps clarify and thanks for writing!
Kristy
Thanks Kristy!
I have knitted thick socks this way from a uk pattern and so was delighted to find yours for normal socks. I have done socks on four needles but find I have to concentrate ALL the time to keep it even, especially between the needles. With 2 needle pattern, I can zip along on the straight bits and only have to turn the TV off when turning the heel or picking up stitches. I am onto my third pair now! Thank you so much, I keep the pattern on my iPad and feel quite “with it”
Hi Elizabeth,
We’re so glad that you’re enjoying the pattern! Thanks for your kind comments and for writing in!
Kristy
Hi. Beautiful pattern, first and foremost. However I am havin a bit of confusion. During and through the end of the heel flap section for women’s large/men’s medium I have 36 stitches on the dpns. However in the first step of “turning the heel” I only knit 22 + k2tog + 1 more stitch, before turning. That leaves quite a few stitches left on my other needle. Is this intentional? Should I have been decreasing during the heel flap? Am I missing something or just a nervous first timer? SOS. Thanks.
Hi Dakota,
Thanks for writing in! The pattern is actually correct and you should have stitches left on your left-hand needle before turning the work. You will knit the stitch before the gap from turning your work with a stitch on the other side of the gap in order to turn the heel. This is a very simple, yet relatively standard way of turning a heel. Try following the pattern and you’ll be very surprised and hopefully pleased with the result!
Best,
Adam
I’m stuck at row 11. I don’t understand k0 (1,1,1).
I have 18 stitches on the needle right now, and the pattern says to have that many and cut yarn to start picking up for the gusset.
What have I done wrong? I have not cut the yarn yet.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for the question. I think I can better help you if you let me know which size you are doing. K0(1,1,1) refers to the size you are doing. If you look at the sizing at the top of the pattern you’ll see that small(medium,large,etc.) are also listed in that order. You’ll want to follow all directions for the size you are doing based on where you size falls in this order. I hope this helps a little bit!
-Adam
I have some experience with double pointed needles (making hats) but have never made socks before. Would you recommend this pattern as a good one to start with? If not, do you have another sock pattern you would suggest?
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing us! I think this is a good beginner sock patter, but wouldn’t call this a traditional sock pattern. A good sock pattern to start out with is our Homespun Boot Sock pattern. It teaches you how to knit a sock from the cuff down in the round, which is a more traditional sock method. Hope you try both though!
-Adam
I love this pattern! I have a question about the part where I place the just-worked stitches onto waste yarn, cut the yarn, and slip stitches onto a second needle (right before heel flap). I’m confused about which stitch has the yarn that I join to color B, because right now i have the free yarn on the 28 on-hold stitches. How do i join color B if the free yarn isn’t being used yet?
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for the question. You’ll be knitting back and forth across your live stitches with Yarn B. To join Yarn B you’ll simply start knitting with it instead of the yarn you’ve been using for the ankle. I hope this answers your question!
-Adam
Hi!
Great pattern. Wondering if I could use your line weight for this?
Thanks!
Julia
Hi Julia,
Thanks for writing in! Line Weight is a bit thinner than the yarn we used here. Additionally, as it is a very soft single ply yarn, it would not work particularly well for socks. I would suggest a tightly plied yarn that is super wash and has a slight nylon content for socks that will hold up well over many wears!
Best,
Cassy
Hi!
Thank you for this beautiful pattern. Having great time knitting it.
A bit confused on the length of the top of the foot.
>> Work in stockinette stitch for the same number of rows that you worked for the Sole, plus 14 (14, 14, 17) rows.
>> Shape Toe as for Sole.
As I understand the top will be longer then the sole. Could you please explain why? And what should I do with these extra rows when seaming two sides together?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Elena,
Thanks for writing in! Here there are extra rows for the top of the foot as the fabric will need to stretch over the top of your foot from the sole on one side to the sole on the other. This is considerably more space that the sole of your foot. The extra rows also account for the space between the leg on the front and the bottom of the heal; that is to say the topside of your foot opposite the heal.
When seeming these rows will mostly, if not entirely, be used up in the heal section! You mattress seem along this section should work as normal.
I hope that this clears things up and don’t hesitate to reach out again!
Cassy
Hello! I’m having trouble seaming these given the difference between the bottom and the top of the sole. Can you explain more about how to account for 14 rows of difference when seaming?
Hi Chloe
Thanks for writing in! The extra 14 rows on the top of the foot are to compensate for the 14 heel flap stitches you picked up and then decreased on the sole. You may find it easier to lightly secure your two sides together with removable stitch markers to get them matched more evenly before you start seaming. I hope this helps!
Best
Jessica
This pattern looks like so much fun! Would Madeline Tosh Merino Light work as a substitute yarn? Thank you.
Hello Marly,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, you can certainly use Tosh Merino Light for this sock. I will note that it will not hold up quite as well as it does not have the Nylon content that Anzula’s Squishy or Our Posey yarn have.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks so much! Wasn’t aware of your new Posy yarns, they look wonderful.
What yardage is required for the leg/top portion and what yardage for the sole/heel portion?
Trying to determine whether 1 skein of Posy and 1 of Pocket Posy would be sufficient for a pair of these socks. Or whether 2 skeins of Posy would be enough for 2 pairs of socks? Thank you.
Hi Marly,
Great question! While we don’t have exact yardage for every size, for our women’s medium sample, we used 160 yards of Color A and 110 yards of Color B. Since our Pocket Posy is 79 yards, you could knit one pair of socks with two mini skeins of each color, though you would be cutting it quite close with Color A! Alternately, you could purchase one Posy for Color A and two each of two different colors of Pocket Posy for Color B and have enough for two pairs of socks, or two skeins of Posy for two pairs of socks with flip flopped colors.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you!
Hello,
I found this pattern to knit my first pair of socks ever. so I read the instructions but I could not understand this : m1R | m1L ??
One increase right 1R?? and “m ” stands for what? make?
“Increase Row (right side): K2, m1R, knit to last 2 stitches, m1L, k2. [56 (64, 72, 80) stitches]”
Probably is something very obvious, but I do not see it.
Thanks in advance.
Hi Diana,
Thanks for reaching out! M1R and M1L are abbreviations for two increases called Make One Right and Make One Left, and you can see how to do them in our Make 1 Right (m1R) + Make 1 Left (m1L) tutorial.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I am working on my 25 pair of socks in 20 months and I owe all of my success to this pattern.
As a beginner I had never worked in the round but I wanted to knit socks! Your pattern “seamed” like the solution to my problem. After the heel flap and turning the heel, somehow knitting in the round made sense and I carried on with only one yarn and finished the first sock. The second sock was knitted in the round with no seam and thus your excellent pattern instructions with photos created the sock monster I am today.
Many thanks!
Hi there,
I’m knitting socks for the first time and using dpns for the first time. I am finished the heel and now moving on to the gusset and sole for men’s medium size. I’m a bit confused about picking up the stitches. Should the right side of the heel be facing me? Help as these are a Christmas present for my husband
Happy Christmas(is it too soon),
Polly
Hi Polly,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, to pick up the stitches you should have the right side facing you and start by picking up the stitches along the right side of the heel flap!
I hope this helps and Happy Christmas! (not too early for me!)
All the best,
Gianna
Hi! Just to clarify, when we use the waste yarn at the beginning of the heel to hold the middle stitches that are reserved for the top, and we then joining the remaining live stitches onto the same needle to start the heel (after aligning them in the right direction), is the second set of 14 stitches left without the extra knitting? The pattern says to slip them onto the needle, but I don’t think it said whether they will be knit before then or not. Otherwise, wouldn’t one side have 1 more row than the other and not line up exactly? Is that correct?
Thank you!
Hi Beth,
Thanks for reaching out! For the gusset and sole you will pick up 14 stitches along the right side of the Heel Flap and then with the same needle you will knit 8 (9, 10, 11) stitches from Heel and with another double pointed needle, knit another 8 (9, 10, 11) Heel stitches, you will then pick up 14 more stitches along the left side of the Heel Flap 44 (46, 48, 56) total stitches. So both sides of the heel flap where you pick up the 14 stitches should not be knit, only the 8 (9, 10, 11) stitches you will pick up and knit on each side in between! Once you get all of the stitches oriented on the DPNs, you will then continue knitting across all of the stitches.
I hope this makes sense!
Warmly
Gianna
Hi, I just started knitting and I have a question about the pattern.
I am still at the Cuff and leg part of the pattern and I got stuck with “Next Row (right side): K42 (48, 54, 60), place the last 28 (32, 36, 40) stitches just worked onto a stitch holder or waste yarn. Cut yarn and slip remaining 14 (16, 18, 20) stitches onto a second needle. [28 (32, 36, 40) total stitches: 14 (16, 18, 20) stitches on each of two needles]”
At the very beginning I cast on 70 stiches, I then increased it in the knit row before this one to 72 to stiches, but then here it says knit 54, place 36 on a holder and slip 18 on a second needle. But 54 + 36 + 18 is 108 stiches witch is a lot more than I have at this step.
I could really use some help with this step.
Thank you for the pattern,
M
Hi M,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! What size are you making and how many stitches do you have at this step? My best guess is that if you are coming up short on stitches you may have missed or done an incorrect number of increases.
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
I am making women’s large. I cast on 70 stiches and when I finished the increase row I ended with 72 to stiches. Then I purled one row and went on to the next one, which is:
Next Row (right side): K42 (48, 54, 60), place the last 28 (32, 36, 40) stitches just worked onto a stitch holder or waste yarn. Cut yarn and slip remaining 14 (16, 18, 20) stitches onto a second needle. [28 (32, 36, 40) total stitches: 14 (16, 18, 20) stitches on each of two needles]
and got stuck here.
At this step I have 72 stiches.
Hi M,
Thanks for reaching out again! Everything checks out okay! I think you may have been counting the 36 stitches twice, but they are part of the 54 that have already been worked! For this row, after starting with 72 stitches, you knit 54, so there are 18 stitches remaining on the left-hand needle. You then put 36 of the 54 already knit stitches on hold, leaving the first 18 of the 54 stitches still on the right-hand needle. When this row is done, the piece should match the picture in the pattern right below these instructions, and there will be 36 stitches in the center of the sock on hold, with 18 live stitches at the beginning of the row and 18 more at the end of the row, which all adds up to 72 (18 + 36 + 18).
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi!
I just started knitting and was wondering whether this was beginner friendly? Also, do you have a video of this tutorial as the pattern and knitting lingo is quite unfamiliar to me.
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing in! I believe this pattern is beginner friendly, especially if you don’t want to work in the round!
We have several tutorials of techniques we used in the pattern, you can find our full list of Tutorials as well as our list of Knitting Abbreviations + Terms
Here are the tutorials used in the pattern:
Make 1 Right (m1R) + Make 1 Left (m1L)
Knit Two Together (k2tog)
Purl 2 Together (p2tog) + Slip Slip Purl (ssp)
Picking Up Stitches
Kitchener Stitch
Mattress Stitch
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thanks for your help! I have another question, when the instructions say to cut the yarn, what should I do with the yarn hanging off? Do I need to cut a long or short piece, should I cast off or tuck it away?
Hi Anne,
I am happy to help! When you cut the yarn you will want to leave a tail at least 6″ long and then you will just leave it be and continue knitting. Once you finish, you will then go back and weave in all of the ends! I recommend checking out out our Weaving in Your Ends tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use and will walk you through the entire process!
Let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello
This looks a great patters. I was just wondering what ply is this wool? I am going to be using 8ply wool, would this work? If so would i used 4mm needles?
Many thanks
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out. The Seamed Socks pattern recommends using a finer yarn for this project, like a fingering weight or 4-ply on a size 3mm needle. You can browse our selection of fingering weight yarn here!
Please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi Guys .I have just knitted this pattern for socks on two needles .I found it so easy to follow …they knitted up quickly ..thank you .Regards Betty
This is my first time ever knitting anything so maybe this will become more obvious as I practice more. However I’m having trouble with row 3 of the Heel Flap. I’m meant to purl across every other row for 2 inches, but in the photo it doesn’t look that way. It looks like I’m meant to continue with the slip/purl/slip/purl pattern. Does the written pattern have an error, or am I really supposed to purl across every odd row of the Heel Flap? Thank you!
Hi Kennedy,
Thanks for writing in! For the heel flap you will alternate both rows 1 and 2 of the heel flap to get a nice squishy heel. Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting, you got this!
Gavriella
This is a fantastic pattern if you are new to knitting socks . Doing socks on 2 needles first off helps you in getting the flow of the sock pattern then you can progress into knitting socks on the round . I love my knitted socks, they are just so warm and comfortable and I get plenty of comments
From Australia
Hi I am a newbie knitter and I’m wondering if I could ask a question about this pattern. I’ve done up the heel flap and now im a little lost at the ‘Turn Heel’ section. It’s my understanding that after starting the turn heel section I will have 28 stitches, but I only count I will have 9 stitches left over, beyond that I still can’t work put the math. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Kind Regards
Hi Kristy,
Could you please let me know which size you are making? This could help us better understand which stitch count you are working on in this section. I will keep an eye out for your reply.
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi Gavriella, thank you for the reply. I think the medium 🤔 I originally casted on 54 stitches.
Thank you for following up! I think there may be a bit of a mix up in selecting a size which seems to have lead to a little mix up in the heel section. For size Woman’s medium, you will want to begin with 62 stitches rather then 54(54 is for the size small). Once you add stitches to the holder in the last row of the CUFF AND LEG section, you should end up with 16 stitches on the first needle, 32 on the holder and then 16 stitches on the last needle. At this point you will be ready to work the heel flap while those initial 32 stitches are on hold. You will then down the heel turn to end up with 18 stitches as you will be decreasing a stitch on every row during the HEEL TURN. You will want to follow the instructions for the same size throughout the entire pattern.
I hope this helps but you can also check out our Reading a Knitting Pattern tutorial that has a more in-depth look on how to select a size and following along with that size under the SIZES section.
All the best,
Gavriella
OK no worries, I’ll give that a go. Thank you for your help 🙂
hi! I am confused with the row that says”K 42 (48, 54, 60), place the last 28 (32, 36, 40) stitches just worked onto a stitch holder or waste yarn. Cut yarn and slip remaining 14 (16, 18, 20) stitches onto a second needle. [28 (32, 36, 40) total stitches: 14 (16, 18, 20) stitches on each of two needles]” I am knitting women large so I have 72 sts, then work 54 so I have 18 left, but the pattern says to place the remaining 36 sts onto waste yarn, How does this work?
Hi Reagan,
For this section you will be starting with a total of 72 stitches for your size. From here you will knit 54 and then of those same stitches you just knit, you will add 36 of them to a holder leaving you with 36 stitches total left on your needles.(72sts – 36sts = 36sts) I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Oh! Okay thank you!!