Little Cable Knee Highs
Whether you have legs like Rob Roy or Jerry Hall, whether you fancy yourself riding a horse in ancient Mongolia or hopping a subway in 21st century Manhattan, knees high socks are for everyone, everywhere, anytime!
These Little Cable Knee Highs are designed to look like they could as easily have been plucked from a case at the Victoria and Albert Museum as from a shelf at Barney’s. They’re simple and practical, but with an attention to detail that’s both timeless and beautiful.
Serious sock knitters are also seriously particular about their sock yarn. That’s why I used Anzula’s Squishy, one of our favorites for everything from socks to baby blankets.
Squishy is the perfect blend of fibers for knitting up a superior pair of socks: merino for warmth and ruggedness, nylon for durability and cashmere for totally happy feet. Plus, I love how its hand dyed color is so gentle and spontaneous, like a wash of watercolor paint.
These Little Cable Knee Highs are just in time for holiday giving. Wouldn’t they be a spectacular gift to find under the tree? -Whitney
UPDATE: NOW IN POSY
JANUARY 2023
Now in Posy, this super soft blend of 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon is machine wash- and dry-able and can withstand sliding in and out of boots all winter long! But for all its strength and durability, Posy sacrifices not a jot of beauty! It’s petal-soft and every color glows, each with the subtle variation we love in a hand-dyed yarn. Pick your favorite color and cast on… Your feet (and legs) will thank you!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoLittleCableKneeHighs. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 2 (2, 2) skeins of Anzula’s Squishy, 80% Superwash Merino, 10% Cashmere and 10% Nylon. Each skein is 385 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 770 yards required. This color is Seaside.
- A set of US 2 (3 mm) double pointed needles
- A cable stitch holder
- A small crochet hook and fingering weight scrap yarn (for Provisional Cast On)
Shop our wonderful collection of fingering-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
8¼ stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
Sizes
Women’s Small (Medium, Large)
- Foot Circumference: 7¼ (8¼, 9¼) inches (unstretched)
- Calf Circumference (at widest): 9¼ (10¼, 11¼) inches (unstretched)
- Foot Length: Adjustable
- Height from Heel to Top of Cuff (unfolded): 21 inches (unblocked)
Sample: We knit a size Small.
Notes
How to Make the Cable
Make Cable: Slip 2 stitches purlwise to cable stitch holder and hold in the front of the work; knit next 2 stitches from double pointed needle; knit the 2 stitches from the holder.
Pattern
The Toe
Using a Provisional Cast On, cast 8 (8, 8) stitches onto one double pointed needle. Make sure to leave a 10-inch tail for finishing at the end.
Set-Up Row: K4 onto Needle 1, k2 onto Needle 2, k2 onto Needle 3.
Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Increase Round: Needle 1: K1, Yarn Over (yo), knit to last stitch, yo, k1; Needle 2: K1, yo, knit to end of needle; Needle 3: Knit to last stitch, yo, k1. (4 stitches increased)
Repeat Increase Round 4 (8, 12) more times, knitting all yo’s through the back loop as you come to them. 28 (44, 60) stitches
Next Round: Knit every stitch, knitting yo’s through the back loop.
Increase Round: Needle 1: K1, yo, knit to last stitch, yo, k1; Needle 2: K1, yo, knit to end of needle; Needle 3: Knit to last stitch, yo, k1. (4 stitches increased)
Repeat last two rounds 7 (5, 3) more times, knitting yo’s through the back loop. 60 (68, 76) total stitches and 30-15-15 (34-17-17, 38-19-19) stitches on each needle
The Foot
Knit every round until piece measures 6 (6 3/4, 7 1/2) inches from cast on, or 2 1/2 (2 3/4, 3) inches less than desired legnth from toe to back of heel.
Here’s a guideline for final sock lengths:
US size 6 shoe (European 37) = 9 inches
US size 7 shoe (38) = 9 1/4 inches
US size 8 shoe (39) = 9 5/8 inches
US size 9 shoe (40) = 10 inches
The Gusset
Round 1: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: K1, yo, knit to end; Needle 3: Knit to last stitch, yo, k1. (2 stitches increased)
Round 2: Needle 1: Knit; Needles 2 and 3: Knit, working all yo’s through the back loop.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 eight more times. 78 (86, 94) total stitches and 30-24-24 (34-26-26, 38-28-28) stitches on each needle
Knit across Needle 1.
Turn the Heel
Notes:
The heel is worked back and forth in rows over just Needles 2 and 3.
You will shape the heel using short rows. If you need some extra help, we have a great Short Rows Tutorial right here!
Work all yo’s through the back loop as you come to them.
Row 1 (right side): Needle 2: Knit; Needle 3: K7 (9, 11), yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 2 (wrong side): P16 (20, 24), yo, p1, wrap and turn.
Row 3: K14 (18, 22), yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 4: P12 (16, 20), yo, p1, wrap and turn.
LARGE SIZE ONLY
Next Row: K18, yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Next Row: P16, yo, p1, wrap and turn.
MEDIUM AND LARGE SIZES ONLY
Next Row: K14, yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Next Row: P12, yo, p1, wrap and turn.
ALL SIZES
Next Row: K10, yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Next Row: P8, yo, p1, wrap and turn.
Next Row: K6, yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Next Row: P4, yo, p1, wrap and turn.
Knit to the end of Needle 3, working the wraps together with the wrapped stitches and knitting the yo’s through the back loop; knit across Needle 1; knit across Needle 2, working the wraps together with the wrapped stitches and knitting the yo’s through the back loop. 86 (96, 106) total stitches and 30-28-28 (34-31-31, 38-34-34) stitches on each needle
The Heel Flap
NOTE: The Heel Flap is worked over just the stitches on Needles 2 and 3. You’ll be working back and forth in rows.
Set-Up Row (right side): Needle 3: K14 (16, 18), Slip Slip Knit (ssk), turn. 85 (95, 105) stitches
Row 1 (wrong side): Working just the stitches on Needles 2 and 3, slip 1, p28 (32, 36), Purl 2 Together (p2tog), turn. 84 (94, 104) stitches
Row 2: *Slip 1, k1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before the gap, slip 1, ssk (the 2 stitches on either side of the gap), turn. (1 stitch decreased)
Row 3: Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog (the 2 stitches on either side of the gap), turn. (1 stitch decreased)
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 eleven (12, 13) more times. 60 (68, 76) total stitches and 30-15-15 (34-17-17, 38-19-19) stitches on each needle.
Next Row: Needle 2: *Slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch on needle, slip 1. Needle 3: *K1, slip 1, repeat from * to last stitch on needle, k1.
Join for again working in the round.
The Leg
Set-Up Round 1: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2; Needle 3: K2, p1, slip these 3 stitches to Needle 2, knit to end. 30-18-12 (34-20-14, 38-22-16) stitches on each needle.
Set-Up Round 2: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, k4, p1; Needle 3: Knit.
Cable Round 1: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, make cable (see How to Make the Cable at beginning of pattern), p1; Needle 3: Knit.
Rounds 2-4: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, k4, p1; Needle 3: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 eight more times.
+Increase Cable Round: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 7 stitches, m1r, k1, p1, make cable, p1; Needle 3: K1, m1l, knit to end. (2 stitches increased)
Repeat Rounds 2-4.
*Work a Cable Round.
Repeat Rounds 2-4.
Repeat from * 1 more time.
Repeat from + 7 more times. 76 (84, 92) total stitches and 30-26-20 (34-28-22, 38-30-24) stitches on each needle
**Work a Cable Round.
Repeat Rounds 2-4.
Repeat from ** 4 more times, ending last repeat with Round 3.
The Cuff
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 5 inches.
Bind off loosely in rib pattern.
Finishing
Pick up the 8 cast on stitches, putting 4 stitches onto each of two needles.
Use the cast on tail and the Kitchener Stitch to graft together the toe.
Weave in the ends and make a second sock. Block them both and you’re done!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 45 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 1000’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
waouh, these socks are so beautiful!! can't wait that my sock-knitting course here in Bxl at “kaléidoscope” starts, so that I'm able to try your wonderful version :)!!
I'm looking at these and thinking I could do this magic loop style, if I used markers. Anyone have any thoughts?
Any idea how much comfortable stretch these get at the widest part of the calf? I think I may need to Frankenstein together a smaller size foot with a larger leg.
These are beautiful. I always knit kneesocks top down – it is so nice that the rows get shorter …. but the pattern is easily turned around to accommodate the OTHER direction. And another heel ….
I would definitely change to Judy's Magic Cast-on to avoid all the kitchener nonsense, but otherwise these look fantastic. I usually use two circulars instead of DPNs, but I imagine with markers it would still be easy enough. It's amazing how much character that one little cable adds.
Come on Purl bee, lets not be size-ist! One of the joys of hand knitted socks is that us taller ladies needn't feel sidelined by commercial ideas of 'normal size'. I'm 180cm tall with size 44 feet. And I'm not tall at all by 'tall lady' standards! I wear the shortest leg Long Tall Sally stock. However, even amongst more average heighted friends, a 41 is common.
Let's give some sizing guidance and support to all those lovely mummies and friends knitting gifts for the tall girls in their lives, who perhaps more than any deserve surprise perfect fit socks under the tree this year!
do you think spud and chloe fine would also work well?
if so, how many skeins would I need?
thanks- they look really nice
Oh I love them so, I want to knit at least seven pairs for myself.
My feet and top of my legs always seem to get so cold.
I shall sleep with them on as well.
Because the shorter socks come off in the night.
Thank you so much for these beautiful knee-highs.
God bless you and yours
Brenda
HI M,
Sure! Practically anything that you knit with double pointed needles could be knit with the Magic Loop method. So if that's your favorite way to do it, go for it!
Thanks for asking!
Whitney
Hi Randi,
I'd say that the calf comfortably stretches about 4-5 inches.
Thanks for asking. Hope the Frankenstein experiment works out!
Whitney
Hi Helen,
I'm about your height and so did naturally think about tall gals! My thought was that nearly everyone could wear these socks either with the cuff folded over or left unfolded. Alas! If you want to fold the cuff down, it's true that we'll have to think about some minor adjustments.
I'd recommend repeating the cable stitch pattern a couple of more times before you start the increases. I'd also work the pattern evenly for a few more repeats after the increases. And if that's still not enough, you can always knit the cuff a little longer too.
I hope this helps! Thanks for your question!
Whitney
Hi Susan K,
Good question! Yes, Spud & Chloe Fine would be a great substitute, although you may need three skeins of it, especially if you're knitting the medium or large size. (If you don't wind the third skein into a ball, you can return it within six months to Purl Soho for store credit.)
Thank you for your question!
Whitney
Hi,
These knee socks are really nice. I would love to knit them for my 7 year old granddaughter to wear under her boots, but I know nothing about how to adjust patten size. How can I figure that out? Thanks for any advise you can send my way.
Mary
HI Mary,
Unfortunately sock patterns are fairly complex so that adjusting them to a new size isn't such a simple matter. However, if you followed this pattern at a smaller gauge, then you would indeed get a smaller pair of socks! For example, if you knit the small size at 9 stitches the inch, the foot circumference would be 6 2/3 inches and if you knit at 10 stitches to the inch, it would be 6 inches.
If you'd like to let me know what size you hope to knit the socks, I'd be happy to tell you what gauge you should try to get!
Thank you for your question!
Whitney
im in the midst of completing my first pair of top down socks…
but I LOVE these!
do you think this is doable for someone with no experience in toe up socks? a wrap turn neophyte??
Hi Susan K,
Sure! We have a great Short Rows Tutorial right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/short-row-tutorial/ and otherwise, it's just a question of carefully following the pattern (as always!).
I think if you're inspired, you should go for it! And I'm always happy to help if you run into any problems!
Thanks for asking!
Whitney
i think i can do this!
the wrap and turns don't look too bad- just not sure about the picking up of the wraps.
do you only do it when it says to do it and is it only after all of the short rows are completed?
im planning to try this very soon and ill use the spud and chloe fine.
thanks so much
Hi again Susan K,
I think you can do it too! Yes to both of your questions: you do only pick up the wrap when the pattern says to and only after all the short rows are completed.
By the way, short rows are much more complicated to think about than to do, so don't get too intimidated beforehand. All will be revealed!
Whitney
Hi,
I absolutely love these! I would like them to cuff above my knee, though, so I can wear them over tights with my knee high boots and the socks show. I'm not very tall (only 5'3 size 7.5 shoe), so I would assume on a normal basis I would wear a small. In order to get the extra length and room for the tights, would you suggest I go up to a medium? Or just increase the length of the small?
Thanks!
MH
P.S I can't wait to make these for my sisters for Christmas!
I love the simple beauty of these socks and can't wait to knit them up. How do I determine my size? My calves are 14″ and my foot just under 9″. How do body measurements translate to unstretched sock measurements?
HI Katherine,
Since the calves comfortable stretch about 3-4 inches, I would recommend the medium size for a 14-inch calf. Your foot length doesn't matter at all because the pattern tells you how to customize the sock to your exact size.
I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any more questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
I wish I could do this!!! I love love love these!!! Would you take an order to make them?
Hi Rachelle-
We don't take custom orders but if you call our retail store in NYC they might be able to get you in touch with a custom knitter. 212-420-8796
Thank you!
Molly
Heya – just got the yarn in the mail to make these – I went with the squishy in clay. Is it two skeins per sock or two for both??? Stupid question I know but after getting the yarn I can't see how I'm going to get two socks out of it :p Thanks! M
Hi Michelle-
It is 2 skeins for the pair not per sock, so you will have enough yarn.
Thanks so much for your question!
Molly
Hello!
Is there a more affordable yarn that you can recommend? $65 for a pair or socks is kinda steep for me.
Thank you.
Hi Franny-
We don't carry anything in a similar weight that is less expensive but you are welcome to use any sock weight yarn you'd like! Just make sure you're getting 8 1/4 stitches per inch!
Thank you for your question and good luck with the project!
Molly
For those of us who are truly cheap bur love this yarn and the idea of this sock with the delicate cable, how long a sock, with a regular (not folded cuff), would one hank make?
Hello!
I started knitting these for my beau (size 10-10.5 men's), but felt like the socks were getting too wide with the yarn I'm using, so I stuck with the stitch count of the small sock. I've finished the gusset (stitch count at 30, 24, 24), but am stuck on the heel. I'm not sure if I should continue to follow the pattern according to the small or large pattern. I was thinking the heel needed the extra rows of the large sock pattern, but am not sure how to recalculate for the smaller stitch count.
Can you please help?!
Just wanted to say that I love this site! It is filled with such wonderful information. I am pretty new to knitting and this is probably a dumb question, but when you say 2 skeins (2,2) what does that mean? Is that 2 per foot or 2 total? I just wasn't sure about the (2,2). Thanks so much and this site is so inspiring and helpful! I absolutely love it!
Hi Brittany-
This is a great question for anyone who has never followed a pattern with different sizes!
The numbers inside of the parenthesis indicate the number of skeins needed for the different sizes. In other words you need 2 skeins for the small (2 skeins for the medium, 2 skeins for the large.)
This particular example is a little confusing since you need the same amount for all three sizes but read down in the pattern a bit and you'll see similar formatting. For example, in the “Pattern” section you'll see this:
Foot Circumference: 7 1/4 (8 1/4, 9 1/4) inches. This could also be written: Foot Circumference: 7 1/4-inches for the small size (8 1/4-inches for the medium size, 9 1/4-inches for the large size)
Hopefully this makes sense, and thanks for your question. Please let us know if you have any more!
Molly
Hi Lisa,
The great thing about knitting from the toe up is you can stop whenever you want! So I would recommend knitting until the remaining yarn weighs half the total skein's weight (which is 114 grams, so until it weighs 57 grams.)
To give you an idea of what you might end up with, I used a little over half the second skein to make a small size.
Thanks for asking and good luck! Let us know how it goes!
Whitney
Hi
Busy knitting these up at the moment and was just wondering if you could help. When you do the increase up the leg do you put in two cables between increases or just do the increase one after the other?
So far I love how they look.
Thanks
Frith
Hi. this is going to be my first sock attempt. ive got the provisional cast on etc but i was just wondering about the first comment on the Cable.
“Make Cable: Slip 2 stitches purlwise to cable stitch holder and hold in the front of the work; knit next 2 stitches from double pointed needle; knit the 2 stitches from the holder.”
at what point do i need to start doing this? and …. could anyone explain this for me.
thankyou.
Hi Bailey,
I'm not totally sure what you mean by the heel “needing extra rows”. Do you mean that you're afraid that when you turn the heel, it won't be big enough? Or are you talking about the heel flap? I think either way, if your gauge is getting you the right size sock by following the small size pattern, you should continue with the small!
Thanks you so much for your question and good luck!
Whitney
Hi Frith,
There are two plain cable rounds between increase rounds (the next increase happens on the third cable after the previous increase).
I hope this helps to clarify! Thanks so much for making these socks and good luck with finishing them!
Whitney
Hi Zen,
You make the cable later in the pattern when it says to “make a cable”. Knitting patterns often start out with explanations for the special techniques that will come later in the pattern.
I hope this helps and good luck with your first socks!
Whitney
Confused….. “*Slip 1, k1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before the gap” this is my 1st pair of socks and so far I've been able to follow this pattern until now? I'm only confused by the (*) does this simply mean slip 1, k1 until 2 stitches b4 gap? Can someone please provide clarification?
Hi Deniqui,
Yes, it does. An asterisk is a pretty standard knitting pattern tool that let's people know the point at which a repeat starts. So when the pattern says “repeat from * to…” it means to go back to the * and repeat what comes after it until you get to where the pattern tells you you'll get to, in this case to “2 stitches before the gap”.
I hope this helps! Good luck with the rest of your socks and thank you for your question!
Whitney
On the heel flap (*Slip 1, k1, repeat from *), am I slipping the stitch purlwise or knitwise? I have been doing purlwise and realized that I wasn't certain this is correct.
Love this pattern! I am working on this project and its my first pair of socks. I am having some issues regarding the short rows and turning the heel, and I was wondering if you might be able to advise. I am making a small size. When I get to the turning the heel part, I knitted across needle 1 and 2 like the pattern calls for, then I knit 7 stitches across needle 3, yo and knit 1 and perform the wrap and turn. This is where my confusion begins because I appear to have too few of stitches facing the wrong side to be able to purl 14 without purling into needle 2 in round 3. I have 14 stitches to the right side of the work.
Do you have any advice or wisdom to share? Thanks!
Hi Elizabeth,
Purlwise is correct!
Thanks for asking and good luck!
Whitney
Hi Erica,
The Turning the Heel section is worked over both Needles # 2 and #3 (see the Notes at the beginning of the section). So for Row 2 to purl 16 stitches, you will have the wrong side facing you and you'll purl the 9 stitches that are on Needle #2 and then finish by purling 7 stitches from Needle #3, yo, p1, wrap and turn.
I hope this gets you on the right path! Please let us know if you have any more questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
Hi-
I'm working on the first sock…When I finished the heel flap, the yarn was on the wrong side to re-join in the round. I knit all the way around again to join, but now I have a small hole on each side of the heel flap. Any idea what I did wrong?
Thanks-
Cindi
When knitting the heel flap when I p2tog, the increase on the knit side slants the the right rather than the left. Can I use a different decrease to try and rectify this? If so, which would you recommend? Thanks, Amy
Hi Cindi,
You did nothing wrong, in fact, you're absolutely right! The error is mine! It has been corrected for future knitters of these socks, but for you with your holes on each side of the heel flap, I would recommend using nearby tails to sew the holes closed. If there are no ends close by, you can add a length of yarn by weaving in its end, sewing the holes closed and weaving in the other end.
I'm so sorry for the inconvenience! Thank you again and again for letting us know!
Whitney
Hi Amy,
A "purl 2 together through the back loop" (or p2tog tbl) will give you a left-leaning decrease on the knit side. Here's a tutorial that shows you how to do it: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/decrease-purl-2-together-tbl-p/2012/3/16/decrease-purl-2-together-through-back-loop-p2tog-tbl.html
Thanks for asking and good luck!
Whitney
Question, when working the decreases on rows 2 and 3 of the heel flap, do you slip the stitch onto needle 1? I left the decrease stitch on either needle 2 or 3 for the first few rounds, but then I realized that the number of stitches was supposed to stay at 30 for needle 1 and decrease on needles 2 and 3…
i started these socks (only my second pair of socks)i am ready to do the cable but i'm having a little trouble understanding the directions! is the cable considered round 3? cause on pg. 13 it says to end last repeat with round 3! but on the previous page it refers to the cable at round 1 and when it says repeat rounds 2-4, does that mean only round 2 and round 4?
thank you, i'd appreciate any advice you may offer.
jackie
Hi Ana,
You're right, you should be maintaining 30 stitches on Needle #1 throughout the Heel Flap, and you should just be working back and forth on Needles #2 and #3.
I hope this sets you on the right path and thanks for asking!
Whitney
Hi Ana,
You're right, you should be maintaining 30 stitches on Needle #1 throughout the Heel Flap, and you should just be working back and forth on Needles #2 and #3.
I hope this sets you on the right path and thanks for asking!
Whitney
Hi Jackie,
Good question! No, round 3 is not the Cable Round; Round 3 is two rounds after the Cable Round. When you have set-up rounds in a pattern, they are never included in subsequent instructions. That's why they're set apart as "set-up rounds."
I hope this clarifies things for you. Congratulations on having gotten so far and thanks for your question!
Whitney
Hi there, I'm knitting my first of these socks, and have reached the end of the heel flap. It seems to work out fine, until I begin the first leg round, at which point, after knitting across needle 1, I find myself faced by a hole. On the other side, there is no such problem, but here, each side has a couple rows of knit stitches unattached to the other. I've now reread the pattern several times and can't figure out what I'm doing wrong, so any advice about how to make this problem go away would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Hi Ian,
It sounds like maybe you didn't decrease across the gap at the end of your last two or three Row 3's. By "decrease across the gap", I mean that maybe you didn't purl together the two stitches on either side of the gap. Even if your stitch counts are correct, it could be that your decreases are misplaced. Does this sound like a possibility?
Please let me know if this doesn't help because I'm sure we can get to the bottom of it!
Thanks so much for your question and good luck!
Whitney
Hi. I was wondering about the heel flap- it's been extremely frustrating going for me, and this'll be the third time I've torn out the heel flap to do it over again. I think my confusion has to do with "the gap." To what exactly are you referring to by "the gap?" The gap between needles 1 & 2, and 1 & 3? Or a large gap between stitches that I'm not seeing? I assumed it meant the gaps between needle 1 and the others, but doing that doesn't have it come out the way it's supposed to look in the photo and only creates large holes in the sock on either side between needle 1 and needles 2 & 3. Would you clarify?
Thanks!
Hi Victoria,
No, the "gap" is not between the needles. It is the place in the previous row where you turned the work. Our Pom Pom Peds pattern has a photo of the "gap" in the section called Turning the Heel:https://www.purlsoho.com/create/the-purl-bee/2008/4/14/whits-knits-pom-pom-peds.html
I hope this helps clarify things for you and I'm sorry for your frustration. Please let us know if you have any other questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
Hi, thanks for your help, but I don't think that's the issue? At least, I've now tried it again a couple times, even to removing all of the heel rows and building them back up pretty carefully, and it's still doing this. (Maybe I'm confused and it's supposed to do this somehow, but this looks like a fairly sizable hole, don't know how it'd vanish later.)
here's a picture. http://grab.by/qtJS
(the rows on the right, that is from needle 1, actually look normal. they're just twisted so I could show the rest.)
I don't know if that helps any, but the other side seems to come out fine, it's just once I've knit around needle 1 that the rows seem off, like I've knit one row too high on needle 1. am I missing something about the transition from heel to leg?
thanks.
Hi Ian,
I'm sorry you're still having trouble! Unfortunately, the link you sent isn't working, but let's see if I can clarify the transition from Heel Flap to Leg in a way that will illuminate the problem…
First of all, since the end of the Gusset, you should have worked only one row on Needle 1: at the end of the Turn the Heel section.
Then for the Heel Flap section, you should have worked exclusively on Needles 2 and 3. The last step of the Heel Flap is to work the slip stitch pattern on Needle 2 and then Needle 3. Done with the Heel Flap.
Next, to start the Leg with the Set-Up Round, you should have just finished Needle 3, and you continue now (without turning the work) onto Needle 1 (where you knit), then onto Needle 2 (where it seems you have a hole) and then onto Needle 3. This is the first time since the end of the Turn the Heel section that you should have worked Needle 1. Is that the case for you?
And again, are you sure that you're joining the stitches on either side of the gap each time you decrease in the Heel Flap section?
If none of this triggers anything for you, then please do try to send the photo again, and maybe that will trigger something for me!
Whitney
I have never done the short rows before now and I cannot locate your video on them. Ok so after I wrap and turn do I purl back down the row, or do I do continue in direction I started out in?…. Can't wait to complete my first pair of socks!
Faith
Hi Faith,
We don't have a video tutorial on short rows (yet!), but we do have a very thorough photo tutorial right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-advanced-te/2008/6/18/short-rows.html
And in answer to your question, you turn the work after you wrap and work back the way from which you just came!
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
Hi Whitney & everyone at purl bee,
Happy new year!
Love all things purl bee especially these socks!
Just had a quick question, when you're starting the socks , are the very first set of increase rounds done without knitting evenly in between rounds ?
Thanks so much!
Hi June,
Happy New Year to you! You have it right, the increase rounds do not have plain knit rounds in between them.
Thanks for asking. Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck with your socks!
Whitney
These are so pretty and I'm going to try them, but I honestly think you'd be crazy to cast on with anything other than Judy's Magic Cast On. Also I will definitely magic loop them.
And! I thought it would look prettier if the cables on one leg mirrored those on the other – so cable them in front for one sock and in the back for the second. 🙂
Gemma, did you by chance do these with Judy’s magic cast on and Magic loop? I was curious how many stitches you started with and if you just followed the pattern after cast on or if there are other steps needed to complete this pattern with magic loop…any help would be great 🙂
Hello Olivia!
You shouldn’t have to change the pattern at all to knit these with the magic loop technique. All that would change is that you should make sure to knit the first stitch after the extra needle cording loop extra tight to avoid a “ladder” in the sock. Here’s a wonderful video on casting on with magic loop: http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/magic-loop Happy Knitting! -Alyson
Hello!
I have a question about the heel flap. I've been stuck here for a long time. On row 2 of the heel flap, every time I get to 2 stitches before the gap, I'm on a slip instead of a knit, which would make 2 slips in a row if I followed the pattern. I don't see how it could ever be a knit, since there will always be an odd number of stitches. Is it supposed to be 2 slips in a row?
Thanks!
Hi Kaitlin,
Perhaps the problem is with your Row 1, since you should not be working on an odd number of stitches. So, for Row 1 you should slip 1; purl x number, depending on your size (whatever your size, you're purling an even number of stitches, plus the original slip stitch, means you've now worked an odd number of stitches); p2tog (this becomes one stitch, added to the odd number you've worked so far, means you have an even number of stitches). Is this how you've worked your Row 1?
Then for Row 2, working a repeat of two stitches (slip 1, knit 1) should land you two stitches before the gap, ready to slip 1, ssk.
I hope this helps you figure out how to move forward. I hate to think of you stuck on the heel flap forever! Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck!
Whitney
Hello! When it says to repeat from + 7 more times, is that 12 rows a repeat, repeating all the cable sets from the + until it says repeat, or is it the + until the next *? Sorry this seems confusing!
Hi Julie Ruth,
Yes, it is a 12-row repeat, ending with “Repeat from * 1 more time.” This is everything between the + and the instruction to repeat from the +.
I hope this clears things for up for you. Thanks so much for asking and please let us know if you run into more problems!
Whitney
Hi,
I am new to short rows and about to start the heel. When I knit the 11 stitches on needle 3, wrap and turn, it says to then P24 (row 2) …I assume I am now crossing over 2 needles? Going from 3 back to 2?
Hi Kristen,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, at this point, you will be traveling back to Needle 2 to complete all 24 purled stitches!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
This pattern looks wonderful, but I was wondering what suggestions you’d have if someone were trying to make thigh high socks out of this pattern? I imagine that instead of starting the cuff you’d have to do an increase to go over the knee, and for the beginning of the thighs.. I’m fairly new to knitting, and not sure how I’d go about adding to a pattern or how many increases I’d need for this.
Hi Megan!
It’s hard to say for sure, but I think you would definitely need to continue doing more than the 7 increase rounds in the leg that the pattern calls for. The best thing to do is measure the thigh, subtract 1 or 2 inches, and shoot for that measurement as a stopping place for your increases.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
I’ve started one of thee socks and think I might pull it out and try the two-at-a-time on a circular needle method (as I want to ensure they are exactly the same). Would you to think that possible, and if so, needles 2 & 3 would become the “second” needle, correct? Thanks! These are just so lovely!
Hi Kate!
If you are familiar with doing two-at-a-time method, then you can certainly do that with these! You are right that needle 2 & 3 would be on the “second” needle.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
I love the pattern! Thank you for sharing.
I have been working on it and I am now up to the leg section, and I’m a bit confuse and in need of help and clarifications.
I saw in a previous comment by Jackie who asked about round 3 (in the leg section) , and you answered : Round 3 is two rounds after the Cable Round. What do you exactly mean by it?
For round 2-4, do you mean 2 to 4 or 2 & 4 have theses instructions:
Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, k4, p1; Needle 3: Knit. Thus, am I suppose to knit the round 1, 2 or 3 times?
and when it says to repeat rounds 1-4, do you mean to repeat round 1,2,3 and 4 or you mean to repeat round 1 and 4 only?
Thank you for your help!
Hi Emilie!
Every time there is a direction with something like “round 2-4,” that means round 2, 3, and 4. Likewise, “rounds 1-4” means round 1, 2, 3, and 4.
In the previous comment, a commenter was asking specifically about which round is round 3, and the answer is that it is 2 rounds after the cable round, included in the “rounds 2-4.”
Hope this helps!
Thomas
I love the simplicity (but not boring) look of these knee high socks and would love to try knitting them! I have only ever knit socks on a circular needle. Any chance you have a version of this pattern for circular needles?
Hi Gary-
We don’t have a version of this for circulars, but we do have a great double pointed needle tutorial that you can find here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/25/double-pointed-needles/ It may help de-mystify the process of knitting with double points.
Thank you for getting in touch and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Best-
Molly
Hello!
I am finally getting ready to knit these socks and I am wondering about sizing … I really don’t want them to slip down my leg.
My calf measures 14″ around — what would this equate to in terms of “unstretched” measurement? My foot circumference is 9 ” at the widest part — what would this be in unstretched measurement?
Thank you so much!
Hi Susan!
Usually socks are worked with at least 1″ of negative ease. I think that’s a pretty good estimate to use for your socks.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Hi,
I’d just like to make sure that this isn’t a mistake.
“P12, yo, k1, wrap and turn.”
Shouldn’t I be doing a purl stitch after the yo or are the instructions correct?
Hi Kimiko,
You’re absolutely right, and I edited the pattern as you suggested. Thank you so much for pointing that out!
Whitney
Hi, I love these socks. I am a fairly new knitter and have finished the heel flap. Schew! I am knitting the small sock for the foot but need to knit the larger size for the calf. How is the best way to adjust for that?
Appreciate any suggestions.
Maria Mason
Hi Maria!
I would just simply add more increases, or do more of them closer together in the leg section of this pattern! That should work out just fine.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Ok. So I am at the leg but I am a little confused about round 3 and 4. I understand that round 3 comes after the cable round but where is round 4? Or what is round 4 rather?
Hi Imani!
For Rounds 3 and 4, you’ll do the same exact thing that you did for round 2:
“Rounds 2-4: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, k4, p1; Needle 3: Knit.”
Thank you for your question!
Thomas
Hi.
Before I start these lovely socks I’d like to know from other knitters how true to size they are. Especially since they go up the calf. I’m a size 8 shoe and have normal sized calves. I’m concerned when they stretch they may fall down.
Thanks!
Hi Marla-
The finished sizes of these socks are listed under the “sizes” headline of the pattern. I have not heard complaints about them falling down and generally the people who have made these have been very happy with them!
I hope this helps. Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
Hi,
Please clarify the cable instructions; I’m beginning the Cable Round 1
the pattern states for Needle 2 to”knit to last 6 stitches, P1, Make Cable”,
The How to “Make a Cable Instructions” show that the cable is over 4 stitches, so what is done with the 6th stitch?
(cable + P1 = 5 stitches), This is the first time I’ve made cables so maybe I am doing something else incorrectly.
Thank you very much for the clarification.
Hello Daviree,
Thank you for the comment! After you knit to the last 6 stitches you p1, make the cable and then p1. This should all add up, it seems like you just missed the purl 1 after the cable. Hope this clarifies things for you and please feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I just started these today and I’m frustrated. I finished the toe but am noticing that due to the top of the sock being on 2 separate needles there is a gap that runs down the whole middle of the top of the sock….what can I do to fix this or is it normal? This is my first pair of socks so I’m learning as I go 🙂
*TIA*
Hi Olivia,
That column of loose stitches is a pitfall of double pointed needles, but not inevitable! Please check out our Double Pointed Needles Tutorial for some tips on avoiding these “ladders:”
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/25/double-pointed-needles/
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck with your first pair of socks!
Whitney
Hi I would like to know If these socks can be knit using magic loop instead if dpns.that way I can knit two I identical socks?thank you.
Absolutely! You can always convert DPN patterns to magic loop. Here’s a wonderful tutorial on how to cast on and set it all up: http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/magic-loop
Happy knitting! -Alyson
Looking at the yarn requirements for these socks…do I need 2 skeins per sock, or 2 skeins total??
Just two skeins total for one pair will do the trick!
Happy knitting! -Alyson
Can this be done on a single circular needle? I’m new to knitting in general but have never made anything in the round yet.
Hello Jacob!
Since the circumference of the socks is so small, double pointed needles are really the best option since they can adjust to the size of the cylinder you’re creating. You can use what’s called the “Magic Loop Method” to make these with one longer pair of circular needles, but it takes just a little more finagling to get into the groove of it.
I would recommend making a hat or a basic leg warmer before jumping into this larger pair of slightly more intricate socks. I don’t want you to get frustrated half way through! Please let us know if you have any other questions and we’re glad you’re getting into the knitting lifestyle! -Alyson
Hello, I am wondering if this sock can be worked from the top down rather than toe up without any major changes.
Hi Sarah-
Unfortunately it’s not a simple calculation to change a pattern in this way and unless you’ve done it many times before we don’t recommend it. But we are always happy to help you through any questions you may have on the existing pattern, if you do decide to knit them toe up after all!
Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
Molly,
thanks for your feedback. I am going to go ahead and knit it up as it’s written.
Can you answer one more question for me? Due to budget, I decided to knit this in Knit Picks Stroll yarn (Gauge – 7-8 sts = 1 inch). I realized post purchase that the Gauge here is slightly larger ( 8 1/4 sts = 1 inch). I started on a pair of size 2 dons, but it looked a little loose, even on the swatch. I’m going to snag a size 1 set tomorrow, but my question is this: if I am knitting this for a medium size (8-8/5 sized shoe), do I need to shoot for knitting the large sized sock with the smaller needles?
Hello Sarah!
You’re definitely on the right track! You will need to maintain the gauge of 8 1/4 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch regardless of the size socks you are making. That way the density of the fabric will be ideal and you will be able to create the right size socks in the end.
Let us know how the smaller needles work out! Best of luck! -Alyson
Hi Sarah-
No, you will need to knit a smaller size if you are getting fewer stitches per inch. But there’s no guarantee that they will fit properly if you don’t get the proper gauge so I would really recommend getting the same gauge as listed in the pattern.
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Hello,
I have another question. I have purchased a different yarn to knit these with, Knit Picks Stroll, though I neglected to check the gauge of the yarn against the required gauge. This yarn works better on a size 1 needle. But that makes me afraid I will make the wrong size. Can you advise? If I was going to make the size 8, should I now make the size 9 because the yarn is slightly smaller and the needles are as well?
Hello Sarah!
Are you getting 8 1/4 stitches per inch with your Knit Picks yarn and size #1 needles? As long as you get this gauge, you will be just fine with the sizing! If you are getting more than 8.25 stitches per inch, then you are correct—the socks will turn out smaller than the desired size, so you may want to make the larger size to compensate.
Hope this helps and happy knitting! -Alyson
Hi Sarah,
Great question! I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch on the needles that you would like to use. If you are getting fewer stitches to the inch that the gauge suggested above, I would suggest going up a size to accommodate the gauge that you are getting. You may also find that you like the fabric better and can get gauge on the suggested needles, in which case you would not need to change sizes. Knitting a gauge swatch, while not something all knitters are excited to do, can be really helpful when substituting yarns.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi there,
Because the wool I purchased was indeed a bit on the heavier side (sized at 7 3/4″ – 8 1/2″ rather than strictly 8 1/4″) I chose the “small” version, though I should be a “medium” according to the sizing information provided in the pattern. Still the sock is MUCH too big (wide and long). I’m not a particularly loose knitter, so I’m wondering if there is anything else I may have missed – or maybe the pattern for just the foot can be adjusted to be smaller? (the leg part seemed to fit ok, but that’s probably due to big calves which give me trouble with buying boots all the time, too.) Any suggestion?
Thanks so much!
Hello Lisa,
Even if the yarn recommends a slightly different gauge than a pattern, you can usually manipulate the needle size in order to make it work. What gauge are you actually getting for your sock? Did you use much larger needles than the pattern recommends?
You can always adjust the length of the foot to accommodate your own size, but changing the width of the foot and the construction of the entire sock can be a lot more work! Let me know what gauge you’re getting exactly and we can hopefully troubleshoot together! Thanks! -Alyson
OMGoodness! These are beautiful and modern. I would love to learn how to do this — it seems so complicated. Thanks for the inspiration though!
Hello Lana!
Its not too difficult! Have you made a hat? Are you comfortable with increases and decreases? If you’re ready for a bit of a challenge and comfortable with those techniques, you can definitely make them! We’re here to help you along the way. Give it a try! -Alyson
hello I am having a problem with the heel wrap. I understand how to do the wrap the problem is the p 16 . I am to put needle 2 and 3 on the same needle?
Hello, Darlene!
Thank you for writing in! Sorry for the very delayed response! The Turning the Heel section is worked over both Needles # 2 and #3 (see the Notes at the beginning of the section). So for Row 2 to purl 16 stitches, you will have the wrong side facing you and you’ll purl the 9 stitches that are on Needle #2 and then finish by purling 7 stitches from Needle #3, yo, p1, wrap and turn. Does that make sense? Please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Please make a video tutorial of this? I’m still struggling with the heel part and I’m too confused with the written instruction maybe a visual would help. Thank
Hi, Kat!
Thank you for writing in! I am sorry to hear that your having trouble with the heel! Unfortunately, we don’t have plans to make a tutorial for this, but I will certainly pass your recommendation along! What exactly are you struggling with? If you’d like you can always email a picture to us at Customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com or give a call at (212) 420-8796 and we can try to help you get through the heel!
Best of luck!
Kumeko
Could you please do a video showing how to do the gusset and heel??? I’m really having a hard time following the instructions.
Hello Nancy,
Thanks for your comment! At this time we do not have the resources to do a video on this project, but we will keep it in mind for future posts. Thanks for your suggestion! In terms of your difficulty with this, you are more than welcome to further explain to me the trouble you are having and I can do my best to help you out.
Thanks,
Adam
Hi there,
Just wondering if you might have this pattern from cuff to toe, instead of working toe to cuff? I’ve made so many from cuff down, and would love to do this one that way as well.
Raissa
Hello, Raissa!
Thank you for writing in! Unfortunately, we only have this pattern available as working from the toe to the cuff. Again, thank you for your question and if you have further questions please let us know.
Best,
Kumeko
YES, just start at the ribbing with the amount of stitches you were to end with, decrease when it said to M1 just make sure you have the same amount of stiches for each repeat as indicated. work to heel and make any kind of heel you like. I am working my sock this way and it is working GREAT.
Hollie
I can not make sense of the heel flap. Can the heel be done another way? I use to doing from the top down socks. I like my socks to go higher up and these seem to be the right length. I have small feet and ankles, but I am having a problem getting my socks (Top down socks) to stay up. I can get the foot and ankle to fit fine, but the top no.
Hello Nancy,
Thanks for writing us! Once you master this small technique, you’ll love doing toe-up socks! Let me break it down: you are knitting and slipping to create a thicker fabric at the back of the heel so there is less wear and tear. This is called a “heel stitch”. Also, you keep turning the work because you need to build the heel upward while not adding any rows to the rest of the sock. And finally, you are decreasing at the end of each row in order to join the heel flap to the rest of the sock without creating any holes in the fabric. Decreasing also takes away stitches so the sock will not be baggy around your ankle. I hope this clarifies things! Good luck and happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
I am stuck on the heel flap where you ssk on either side of the gap. I see from a previous (years ago) comment it’s not between needles. You gave a link on how to identify this gap but it’s broken. Can you help me figure out how to find the gap?
Hi Dina,
Click here for the link for the “Pom Pom Socklets”. Under “turning the heel” you’ll see what the gap will look like. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Love all of these designs, glad to be finally knitting one myself! I am confused on the maths for the stitching between the toes and the start of the increases.
My foot is about 9″ long, which points me to the instructions saying to knit until the whole piece measures 6″, 3″ short of the foot length. Then the instructions mention stopping 2 1/2″ short of the full foot length,
Which is it? 3″ or 2.5″?
Cheers!
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for writing in! The size that you will choose to knit for this pattern is based on your foot circumference. So you will choose small, medium or large based on the measurement listed under size for your foot circumference. Then, if you have selected the small, you will knit to 2 1/2 inches short of your foot length, for the medium you will knit to 2 3/4 inches short of your foot length and for the large you will knit to 3 inches short of your foot length.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
How many yards do these socks require? I know you recommned 2 skeins at 385 yds each for the yarn depicted. I have ~500 yds of a similar type of yarn in my stash and was wondering if it would be enough!
Hi Kimberley,
Thanks for writing in! Whether or not you have the yardage needed, you can divide your yardage in half, reserving one half for one sock and the other for the second sock. You can do this because the sock is constructed from the toe up, letting you knit the important parts first and knitting until you run out of yarn on the cuff. Hope this helps!
-Adam
I was able to print the pattern for Little Cable Knee Highs last week but have lost my pattern, now I do not seem to able to reprint it. Can you help me?
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for writing in! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
Best,
Cassy
I love these socks and I’m knitting these socks for a friend, but I’m confused about how to adjust them. The leg circumference sizes seem so small, even with an inch of negative ease. My friend’s calf measured 15″ at it’s widest point, so that’s 14″ with an inch of negative ease. That is still 4 inches larger than the “large” size of the pattern. The gauge with my yarn is 9 stitches per inch (unstretched), which would mean 126 stitches total, so I’d need to increase a total of 62 stitches (I knit the foot and heel with 64 stitches)…which is waaay more than the pattern has increased for the large leg size. Does this seem right?
And then I’d have to decrease after the calf since below the knee my friend measured 13″? I really want these socks to stay up! 🙂
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! The designer of these lovely socks has said that the calf comfortably stretches about 4-5 inches. So if you are knitting the largest size for your friend (such a kind gift!), you should be all set given how much the calf stretches using the original gauge. Given that your gauge is tighter than the 8 1/4 stitches per inch, you may need to increase a little more than called for. I would measure the calf once you get to the last increase for the largest size. If, with 4-5 inches of stretch, it will fit your friend, then you should be all set. If not, you can add a few more increases, being sure that you are adding multiples of 4 stitches to correspond with the ribbing at the top of the sock.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I just have to say, I was TERRIFIED of knitting socks! Time and time again, I tried to knit socks. I desperately wanted to accomplish this task. I just couldn’t find a pattern that I truly understood step by step. With each link and clear explanations, you have helped me do what I’ve set out to do for over a year now. Thank you so much! I can’t explain how excited I am to be able say that I now know how to knit socks. It might sound silly, but this is a big deal for me and I owe it all to you. Thank you!
Hi! I am having trouble with the cables of these beauties. I am finding that the stitches on the left side of the cable are wider than those on the right side of the cable. Do you have suggestions on how to correct this issue?
Hello Brandi,
Thank you for writing us! This is mysterious, my first thought would be that if you are using double pointed needles, sometimes you get loose stitches between two needles. To help avoid this, if the first stitch on the needle is a purl stitch, then it’s better to start the new needle above the previous needle. Also, always give the first stitch of each needle a bit of an extra tug to close the gap between needles.
I hope this helps! Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi,
I’m currently trying to knit these socks and I am stuck at turning the heel. I did all the wraps and turns perfectly, following the tutorial on short rows. However, I can’t figure out how to pick up the wraps when I get to needle 2. The instructions say to knit to the end of Needle 3, working the wraps together with the wrapped stitches, which is fine. Then I knit across Needle 1. But then, I get to needle 2 and I have wraps that are on the wrong side, but I am knitting on the right side by this point. How do I pick up the purl wraps when I am on the right side? I looked all over Internet and couldn’t find a way to do it.
Thank you so much in advance for your help!
Hello Genevieve,
Thank you for reaching out! Picking up your wrapped stitches on needle 2 can be a little tricky but you can do it! You will be doing the same thing you did on needle 3. Essentially what you are doing is taking the wrap off the stitch and then knit your stitch together with your wrap so that the wrap is sitting on the purl side. I hope this helps and please let me know if I can clarify anything for you!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hello. How can I adjust this pattern for a size 5 or 6 🙂 Thanks
Hi Leandra,
Thanks for writing in! The foot length is easily adjustable in this pattern, so I would knit the smallest size, or whichever size has a finished foot circumference about an inch smaller than your actual foot, and then try on the sock before beginning the heel to make sure the foot portion ends about two and a half inches from the back of your heel.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello, I am curious whether you can leave out the cable
Hi Margaret,
Great question! While omitting cables in a heavily cabled pattern will affect the fit, I think you should be fine leaving out this single narrow cable!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi.
I’m curious about the calf section
My foot measures
8.25 inch wide
8.5 inches long
So I should knit the smallest size for the foot section.
My calf however is 15 inches so the smallest size wont work in this section. What should I do to ensure it will fit at my calf?
Hi Kristen,
Thanks for writing in! Since these socks are knit toe up, it should be fairly easy to modify the fit of the calf! We worked 32 rows of the leg before beginning the calf increases and increased every 12th row after that, but I think you will have to begin the increase sooner and also increase more frequently. After knitting the foot in the small size, you can start trying on the sock every inch or so to see when you would like to start the increases, and then start increasing every 8th or 4th row after that. To make sure the sock fits but is snug enough to stay up, you will need to end up with 116 stitches for a 14″ circumference at the top of the leg. You can also continue trying on the sock as you go to make any adjustments you need to – but don’t forget to take notes so the second sock matches!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
hi!
rekindled my love of knitting during the pandemic and love these socks! Any suggestions for a yarn substitute (you don’t seem to carry Squishy anymore)?
Hi Camilla,
Thank you for writing in! I am so excited to hear that you have rekindled your love for knitting! An excellent yarn substitute for this pattern would be our Posy yarn. It has a similar fiber make up to the Anzula Squishy and will look beautiful with this pattern!
Happy knitting!!
Gianna
Is it the case that having worked the gusset you are then picking up the stitches down the sides of it? I’m used to knitting socks top down and am trying to get my head around how this one works!
Thanks!
Hi Hattie,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, as you are working you are working with the stitches on the sides to create the heel shape!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Id like to knit this in a thigh-high variant, any tips for the increases that would be needed?
Hi Bishop,
Thanks for reaching out! It may take a bit of trial and error to get the right width when adjusting this pattern to be thigh-high, I would recommend repeating the increases in THE LEG section till you get the width/length you desire before going into THE CUFF section.
I hope this helps and please let us know how this turns out!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi,
It seems like you discontinued the yarn in the pattern. Do you have a suitable alternative? Thank you
Hi Barbora,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes we don’t cary that yarn anymore but in its place you could use our yarn Posy for this pattern! It should work out beautifully, I do recommend working a gauge swatch to insure that you are consistent with the pattern!
Warmly,
Gianna
How many total cables is that?
If I use the new midweight Posy with this pattern, how many 50-gram skeins are needed for the medium-size socks? Thank you!
You mentioned substituting Posy for this pattern: Is that the new midweight Posy? And if so, how many of the 50-gram skeins would be needed for one pair of these socks in size Medium?
Hi Ann,
Thanks for reaching out! Our new Posy is the exact same as the old Posy, the only thing that’s changed are the skein sizes, but it is the same fingering weight yarn! Unfortunately, since this is an older pattern I don’t have the exact yardage used for each size, however, we suggest using 2 skeins of Anzula Squishy for all of the sizes, each skein is 385 yards, so 770 yards for two skeins. Posy has 159 yards per skein fo I would suggest getting 5 skeins to be safe. If you don’t end up using all the yarn, you can return the skeins for store credit within 6 months as long as they are in original condition!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Super cute pattern. I’ve never done a toe-up heel flap and gusset. If I want to use a contrasting yarn for the heel, at what point in the pattern should I be switching yarns? Is it possible to drop the MC and pick it up again later without breaking it?
Hi Nadia,
Thanks for reaching out. If you want to use a different color for the heel, I’d recommend switching yarn just for the HEEL FLAP section! Then, when you get to the LEG section, switch back to the main color. For carrying the MC yarn up, you could try “trapping” it under a stitch in each row as you work the heel flap, similarly to how you would trap floats when working in stranded colorwork. I’m not positive this will work, as I’ve never used the technique in this situation before, but I’d recommend giving it a try! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for replying!
At first, I tried using the CC just for the heel flap but I thought it looked a little funny so I ripped back and did the heel turn in CC as well. I switched colours at the beginning of needle 2 on the first row of the Heel Turn. I had to eliminate the last instruction of the heel turn to avoid knitting with the CC across the instep. Directly after the short rows, I carried straight on to the setup row for the heel flap on needle 3.
And my MC was waiting for me when the heel flap was done 🙂
I like to knit this sock but I’m confused about the sizing. The pattern says
Calf Circumference (at widest): 9¼ (10¼, 11¼) inches (unstretched)
I don’t have big legs at all and my Calf circumference at widest is 14″
Just don’t know which size to knit. Thank you.
Hi Judith,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d recommend knitting the Large size. I think that about 2.75″ of negative ease (from the 11 1/4-inch unstretched circumference) is the perfect amount so that the socks stay up on your calves but also aren’t uncomfortably tight. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
What is meant by ‘the gap’ in the directions about the heel flap? I though tyou meant all the way to the 1st needle, but now I think I misunderstood…. if I’m wrong, any advice for taking it out and where to start again?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! When you turn your work after the p2tog or ssk, that motion forms a gap between that stitch and the next stitch. This should be very visible once you reach this point in the pattern!
If you need to go back in your work, I’d recommend unknitting each stitch until you get back to a point where everything’s correct. That’s a much more controlled way of undoing your work, since you don’t need to worry about dropped stitches!
I hope this helps, but please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Lili
I am just learning to knit socks. I already have a pair in process on magic loop. I have finished the heel and want to start up the leg, but I want to make them knee high socks. Your pattern is lovely and I would love to continue up the leg in your pattern, but I don’t know where to put the markers to continue, since I’m not using DPK and I didn’t start from your pattern. Any assistance would be very much appreciated! Thank you
Hi Carmen,
Thanks for writing in! Can you please let me know what size you’re making? Then I will be able to figure out the stitch counts, since those will be different depending on the size!
All the best,
Lili