Whether you have legs like Rob Roy or Jerry Hall, whether you fancy yourself riding a horse in ancient Mongolia or hopping a subway in 21st century Manhattan, knees high socks are for everyone, everywhere, anytime!
These Little Cable Knee Highs are designed to look like they could as easily have been plucked from a case at the Victoria and Albert Museum as from a shelf at Barney’s. They’re simple and practical, but with an attention to detail that’s both timeless and beautiful.
Serious sock knitters are also seriously particular about their sock yarn. That’s why I used Anzula’s Squishy, one of our favorites for everything from socks to baby blankets.
Squishy is the perfect blend of fibers for knitting up a superior pair of socks: merino for warmth and ruggedness, nylon for durability and cashmere for totally happy feet. Plus, I love how its hand dyed color is so gentle and spontaneous, like a wash of watercolor paint.
These Little Cable Knee Highs are just in time for holiday giving. Wouldn’t they be a spectacular gift to find under the tree? -Whitney
Materials
- 2 (2, 2) skeins of Anzula’s Squishy, 80% Superwash Merino, 10% Cashmere and 10% Nylon. This color is Seaside.
- A set of US #2 double pointed needles (or size needed to obtain gauge)
- A small cable stitch holder
- A small crochet hook and scrap yarn (for Provisional Cast On)
Gauge
8 1/4 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
Sizes
Women’s Small (Medium, Large)
- Foot Circumference: 7 1/4 (8 1/4, 9 1/4) inches (unstretched)
- Calf Circumference (at widest): 9 1/4 (10 1/4, 11 1/4) inches (unstretched)
- Foot Length: Adjustable
- Height from Heel to Top of Cuff (unfolded): 21 inches (unblocked)
(The photos in this pattern show a size Small.)
Notes
How to Make the Cable
Make Cable: Slip 2 stitches purlwise to cable stitch holder and hold in the front of the work; knit next 2 stitches from double pointed needle; knit the 2 stitches from the holder.
Pattern
The Toe
Using a Provisional Cast On, cast 8 (8, 8) stitches onto one double pointed needle. Make sure to leave a 10-inch tail for finishing at the end.
Set-Up Row: K4 onto Needle 1, k2 onto Needle 2, k2 onto Needle 3.
Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Increase Round: Needle 1: K1, yo, knit to last stitch, yo, k1; Needle 2: K1, yo, knit to end of needle; Needle 3: Knit to last stitch, yo, k1. (4 stitches increased)
Repeat Increase Round 4 (8, 12) more times, knitting all yo’s through the back loop as you come to them. 28 (44, 60) stitches
Next Round: Knit every stitch, knitting yo’s through the back loop.
Increase Round: Needle 1: K1, yo, knit to last stitch, yo, k1; Needle 2: K1, yo, knit to end of needle; Needle 3: Knit to last stitch, yo, k1. (4 stitches increased)
Repeat last two rounds 7 (5, 3) more times, knitting yo’s through the back loop. 60 (68, 76) total stitches and 30-15-15 (34-17-17, 38-19-19) stitches on each needle
The Foot
Knit every round until piece measures 6 (6 3/4, 7 1/2) inches from cast on, or 2 1/2 (2 3/4, 3) inches less than desired legnth from toe to back of heel.
Here’s a guideline for final sock lengths:
US size 6 shoe (European 37) = 9 inches
US size 7 shoe (38) = 9 1/4 inches
US size 8 shoe (39) = 9 5/8 inches
US size 9 shoe (40) = 10 inches
The Gusset
Round 1: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: K1, yo, knit to end; Needle 3: Knit to last stitch, yo, k1. (2 stitches increased)
Round 2: Needle 1: Knit; Needles 2 and 3: Knit, working all yo’s through the back loop.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 eight more times. 78 (86, 94) total stitches and 30-24-24 (34-26-26, 38-28-28) stitches on each needle
Knit across Needle 1.
Turn the Heel
Notes:
- The heel is worked back and forth in rows over just Needles 2 and 3.
- You will shape the heel using short rows. If you need some extra help, we have a great Short Rows Tutorial right here!
- Work all yo’s through the back loop as you come to them.
Row 1 (right side): Needle 2: Knit; Needle 3: K7 (9, 11), yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 2 (wrong side): P16 (20, 24), yo, p1, wrap and turn.
Row 3: K14 (18, 22), yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 4: P12 (16, 20), yo, p1, wrap and turn.
LARGE SIZE ONLY
Next Row: K18, yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Next Row: P16, yo, p1, wrap and turn.
MEDIUM AND LARGE SIZES ONLY
Next Row: K14, yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Next Row: P12, yo, p1, wrap and turn.
ALL SIZES
Next Row: K10, yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Next Row: P8, yo, p1, wrap and turn.
Next Row: K6, yo, k1, wrap and turn.
Next Row: P4, yo, p1, wrap and turn.
Knit to the end of Needle 3, working the wraps together with the wrapped stitches and knitting the yo’s through the back loop; knit across Needle 1; knit across Needle 2, working the wraps together with the wrapped stitches and knitting the yo’s through the back loop. 86 (96, 106) total stitches and 30-28-28 (34-31-31, 38-34-34) stitches on each needle
The Heel Flap
NOTE: The Heel Flap is worked over just the stitches on Needles 2 and 3. You’ll be working back and forth in rows.
Set-Up Row (right side): Needle 3: K14 (16, 18), ssk, turn. 85 (95, 105) stitches
Row 1 (wrong side): Working just the stitches on Needles 2 and 3, slip 1, p28 (32, 36), p2tog, turn. 84 (94, 104) stitches
Row 2: *Slip 1, k1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before the gap, slip 1, ssk (the 2 stitches on either side of the gap), turn. (1 stitch decreased)
Row 3: Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog (the 2 stitches on either side of the gap), turn. (1 stitch decreased)
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 eleven (12, 13) more times. 60 (68, 76) total stitches and 30-15-15 (34-17-17, 38-19-19) stitches on each needle.
Next Row: Needle 2: *Slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch on needle, slip 1. Needle 3: *K1, slip 1, repeat from * to last stitch on needle, k1.
Join for again working in the round.
The Leg
Set-Up Round 1: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2; Needle 3: K2, p1, slip these 3 stitches to Needle 2, knit to end. 30-18-12 (34-20-14, 38-22-16) stitches on each needle.
Set-Up Round 2: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, k4, p1; Needle 3: Knit.
Cable Round 1: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, make cable (see How to Make the Cable at beginning of pattern), p1; Needle 3: Knit.
Rounds 2-4: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, k4, p1; Needle 3: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 eight more times.
+Increase Cable Round: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 7 stitches, m1r, k1, p1, make cable, p1; Needle 3: K1, m1l, knit to end. (2 stitches increased)
Repeat Rounds 2-4.
*Work a Cable Round.
Repeat Rounds 2-4.
Repeat from * 1 more time.
Repeat from + 7 more times. 76 (84, 92) total stitches and 30-26-20 (34-28-22, 38-30-24) stitches on each needle
**Work a Cable Round.
Repeat Rounds 2-4.
Repeat from ** 4 more times, ending last repeat with Round 3.
The Cuff
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 5 inches.
Bind off loosely in rib pattern.
Finishing
Pick up the 8 cast on stitches, putting 4 stitches onto each of two needles.
Use the cast on tail and the Kitchener Stitch to graft together the toe.
Weave in the ends and make a second sock. Block them both and you’re done!
PRINT
Hi Ana,
You're right, you should be maintaining 30 stitches on Needle #1 throughout the Heel Flap, and you should just be working back and forth on Needles #2 and #3.
I hope this sets you on the right path and thanks for asking!
Whitney
Hi Jackie,
Good question! No, round 3 is not the Cable Round; Round 3 is two rounds after the Cable Round. When you have set-up rounds in a pattern, they are never included in subsequent instructions. That's why they're set apart as "set-up rounds."
I hope this clarifies things for you. Congratulations on having gotten so far and thanks for your question!
Whitney
Hi there, I'm knitting my first of these socks, and have reached the end of the heel flap. It seems to work out fine, until I begin the first leg round, at which point, after knitting across needle 1, I find myself faced by a hole. On the other side, there is no such problem, but here, each side has a couple rows of knit stitches unattached to the other. I've now reread the pattern several times and can't figure out what I'm doing wrong, so any advice about how to make this problem go away would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Hi Ian,
It sounds like maybe you didn't decrease across the gap at the end of your last two or three Row 3's. By "decrease across the gap", I mean that maybe you didn't purl together the two stitches on either side of the gap. Even if your stitch counts are correct, it could be that your decreases are misplaced. Does this sound like a possibility?
Please let me know if this doesn't help because I'm sure we can get to the bottom of it!
Thanks so much for your question and good luck!
Whitney
Hi. I was wondering about the heel flap- it's been extremely frustrating going for me, and this'll be the third time I've torn out the heel flap to do it over again. I think my confusion has to do with "the gap." To what exactly are you referring to by "the gap?" The gap between needles 1 & 2, and 1 & 3? Or a large gap between stitches that I'm not seeing? I assumed it meant the gaps between needle 1 and the others, but doing that doesn't have it come out the way it's supposed to look in the photo and only creates large holes in the sock on either side between needle 1 and needles 2 & 3. Would you clarify?
Thanks!
Hi Victoria,
No, the "gap" is not between the needles. It is the place in the previous row where you turned the work. Our Pom Pom Peds pattern has a photo of the "gap" in the section called Turning the Heel:https://www.purlsoho.com/create/the-purl-bee/2008/4/14/whits-knits-pom-pom-peds.html
I hope this helps clarify things for you and I'm sorry for your frustration. Please let us know if you have any other questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
Hi, thanks for your help, but I don't think that's the issue? At least, I've now tried it again a couple times, even to removing all of the heel rows and building them back up pretty carefully, and it's still doing this. (Maybe I'm confused and it's supposed to do this somehow, but this looks like a fairly sizable hole, don't know how it'd vanish later.)
here's a picture. http://grab.by/qtJS
(the rows on the right, that is from needle 1, actually look normal. they're just twisted so I could show the rest.)
I don't know if that helps any, but the other side seems to come out fine, it's just once I've knit around needle 1 that the rows seem off, like I've knit one row too high on needle 1. am I missing something about the transition from heel to leg?
thanks.
Hi Ian,
I'm sorry you're still having trouble! Unfortunately, the link you sent isn't working, but let's see if I can clarify the transition from Heel Flap to Leg in a way that will illuminate the problem…
First of all, since the end of the Gusset, you should have worked only one row on Needle 1: at the end of the Turn the Heel section.
Then for the Heel Flap section, you should have worked exclusively on Needles 2 and 3. The last step of the Heel Flap is to work the slip stitch pattern on Needle 2 and then Needle 3. Done with the Heel Flap.
Next, to start the Leg with the Set-Up Round, you should have just finished Needle 3, and you continue now (without turning the work) onto Needle 1 (where you knit), then onto Needle 2 (where it seems you have a hole) and then onto Needle 3. This is the first time since the end of the Turn the Heel section that you should have worked Needle 1. Is that the case for you?
And again, are you sure that you're joining the stitches on either side of the gap each time you decrease in the Heel Flap section?
If none of this triggers anything for you, then please do try to send the photo again, and maybe that will trigger something for me!
Whitney
I have never done the short rows before now and I cannot locate your video on them. Ok so after I wrap and turn do I purl back down the row, or do I do continue in direction I started out in?…. Can't wait to complete my first pair of socks!
Faith
Hi Faith,
We don't have a video tutorial on short rows (yet!), but we do have a very thorough photo tutorial right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-advanced-te/2008/6/18/short-rows.html
And in answer to your question, you turn the work after you wrap and work back the way from which you just came!
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
Hi Whitney & everyone at purl bee,
Happy new year!
Love all things purl bee especially these socks!
Just had a quick question, when you're starting the socks , are the very first set of increase rounds done without knitting evenly in between rounds ?
Thanks so much!
Hi June,
Happy New Year to you! You have it right, the increase rounds do not have plain knit rounds in between them.
Thanks for asking. Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck with your socks!
Whitney
These are so pretty and I'm going to try them, but I honestly think you'd be crazy to cast on with anything other than Judy's Magic Cast On. Also I will definitely magic loop them.
And! I thought it would look prettier if the cables on one leg mirrored those on the other – so cable them in front for one sock and in the back for the second. 🙂
Gemma, did you by chance do these with Judy’s magic cast on and Magic loop? I was curious how many stitches you started with and if you just followed the pattern after cast on or if there are other steps needed to complete this pattern with magic loop…any help would be great 🙂
Hello Olivia!
You shouldn’t have to change the pattern at all to knit these with the magic loop technique. All that would change is that you should make sure to knit the first stitch after the extra needle cording loop extra tight to avoid a “ladder” in the sock. Here’s a wonderful video on casting on with magic loop: http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/magic-loop Happy Knitting! -Alyson
Hello!
I have a question about the heel flap. I've been stuck here for a long time. On row 2 of the heel flap, every time I get to 2 stitches before the gap, I'm on a slip instead of a knit, which would make 2 slips in a row if I followed the pattern. I don't see how it could ever be a knit, since there will always be an odd number of stitches. Is it supposed to be 2 slips in a row?
Thanks!
Hi Kaitlin,
Perhaps the problem is with your Row 1, since you should not be working on an odd number of stitches. So, for Row 1 you should slip 1; purl x number, depending on your size (whatever your size, you're purling an even number of stitches, plus the original slip stitch, means you've now worked an odd number of stitches); p2tog (this becomes one stitch, added to the odd number you've worked so far, means you have an even number of stitches). Is this how you've worked your Row 1?
Then for Row 2, working a repeat of two stitches (slip 1, knit 1) should land you two stitches before the gap, ready to slip 1, ssk.
I hope this helps you figure out how to move forward. I hate to think of you stuck on the heel flap forever! Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck!
Whitney
Hello! When it says to repeat from + 7 more times, is that 12 rows a repeat, repeating all the cable sets from the + until it says repeat, or is it the + until the next *? Sorry this seems confusing!
Hi Julie Ruth,
Yes, it is a 12-row repeat, ending with “Repeat from * 1 more time.” This is everything between the + and the instruction to repeat from the +.
I hope this clears things for up for you. Thanks so much for asking and please let us know if you run into more problems!
Whitney
Hello!
This pattern looks wonderful, but I was wondering what suggestions you’d have if someone were trying to make thigh high socks out of this pattern? I imagine that instead of starting the cuff you’d have to do an increase to go over the knee, and for the beginning of the thighs.. I’m fairly new to knitting, and not sure how I’d go about adding to a pattern or how many increases I’d need for this.
Hi Megan!
It’s hard to say for sure, but I think you would definitely need to continue doing more than the 7 increase rounds in the leg that the pattern calls for. The best thing to do is measure the thigh, subtract 1 or 2 inches, and shoot for that measurement as a stopping place for your increases.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
I’ve started one of thee socks and think I might pull it out and try the two-at-a-time on a circular needle method (as I want to ensure they are exactly the same). Would you to think that possible, and if so, needles 2 & 3 would become the “second” needle, correct? Thanks! These are just so lovely!
Hi Kate!
If you are familiar with doing two-at-a-time method, then you can certainly do that with these! You are right that needle 2 & 3 would be on the “second” needle.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
I love the pattern! Thank you for sharing.
I have been working on it and I am now up to the leg section, and I’m a bit confuse and in need of help and clarifications.
I saw in a previous comment by Jackie who asked about round 3 (in the leg section) , and you answered : Round 3 is two rounds after the Cable Round. What do you exactly mean by it?
For round 2-4, do you mean 2 to 4 or 2 & 4 have theses instructions:
Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, k4, p1; Needle 3: Knit. Thus, am I suppose to knit the round 1, 2 or 3 times?
and when it says to repeat rounds 1-4, do you mean to repeat round 1,2,3 and 4 or you mean to repeat round 1 and 4 only?
Thank you for your help!
Hi Emilie!
Every time there is a direction with something like “round 2-4,” that means round 2, 3, and 4. Likewise, “rounds 1-4” means round 1, 2, 3, and 4.
In the previous comment, a commenter was asking specifically about which round is round 3, and the answer is that it is 2 rounds after the cable round, included in the “rounds 2-4.”
Hope this helps!
Thomas
I love the simplicity (but not boring) look of these knee high socks and would love to try knitting them! I have only ever knit socks on a circular needle. Any chance you have a version of this pattern for circular needles?
Hi Gary-
We don’t have a version of this for circulars, but we do have a great double pointed needle tutorial that you can find here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/25/double-pointed-needles/ It may help de-mystify the process of knitting with double points.
Thank you for getting in touch and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Best-
Molly
Hello!
I am finally getting ready to knit these socks and I am wondering about sizing … I really don’t want them to slip down my leg.
My calf measures 14″ around — what would this equate to in terms of “unstretched” measurement? My foot circumference is 9 ” at the widest part — what would this be in unstretched measurement?
Thank you so much!
Hi Susan!
Usually socks are worked with at least 1″ of negative ease. I think that’s a pretty good estimate to use for your socks.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Hi,
I’d just like to make sure that this isn’t a mistake.
“P12, yo, k1, wrap and turn.”
Shouldn’t I be doing a purl stitch after the yo or are the instructions correct?
Hi Kimiko,
You’re absolutely right, and I edited the pattern as you suggested. Thank you so much for pointing that out!
Whitney
Hi, I love these socks. I am a fairly new knitter and have finished the heel flap. Schew! I am knitting the small sock for the foot but need to knit the larger size for the calf. How is the best way to adjust for that?
Appreciate any suggestions.
Maria Mason
Hi Maria!
I would just simply add more increases, or do more of them closer together in the leg section of this pattern! That should work out just fine.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Ok. So I am at the leg but I am a little confused about round 3 and 4. I understand that round 3 comes after the cable round but where is round 4? Or what is round 4 rather?
Hi Imani!
For Rounds 3 and 4, you’ll do the same exact thing that you did for round 2:
“Rounds 2-4: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, k4, p1; Needle 3: Knit.”
Thank you for your question!
Thomas
Hi.
Before I start these lovely socks I’d like to know from other knitters how true to size they are. Especially since they go up the calf. I’m a size 8 shoe and have normal sized calves. I’m concerned when they stretch they may fall down.
Thanks!
Hi Marla-
The finished sizes of these socks are listed under the “sizes” headline of the pattern. I have not heard complaints about them falling down and generally the people who have made these have been very happy with them!
I hope this helps. Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
Hi,
Please clarify the cable instructions; I’m beginning the Cable Round 1
the pattern states for Needle 2 to”knit to last 6 stitches, P1, Make Cable”,
The How to “Make a Cable Instructions” show that the cable is over 4 stitches, so what is done with the 6th stitch?
(cable + P1 = 5 stitches), This is the first time I’ve made cables so maybe I am doing something else incorrectly.
Thank you very much for the clarification.
Hello Daviree,
Thank you for the comment! After you knit to the last 6 stitches you p1, make the cable and then p1. This should all add up, it seems like you just missed the purl 1 after the cable. Hope this clarifies things for you and please feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I just started these today and I’m frustrated. I finished the toe but am noticing that due to the top of the sock being on 2 separate needles there is a gap that runs down the whole middle of the top of the sock….what can I do to fix this or is it normal? This is my first pair of socks so I’m learning as I go 🙂
*TIA*
Hi Olivia,
That column of loose stitches is a pitfall of double pointed needles, but not inevitable! Please check out our Double Pointed Needles Tutorial for some tips on avoiding these “ladders:”
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/25/double-pointed-needles/
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck with your first pair of socks!
Whitney
Hi I would like to know If these socks can be knit using magic loop instead if dpns.that way I can knit two I identical socks?thank you.
Absolutely! You can always convert DPN patterns to magic loop. Here’s a wonderful tutorial on how to cast on and set it all up: http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/magic-loop
Happy knitting! -Alyson
Looking at the yarn requirements for these socks…do I need 2 skeins per sock, or 2 skeins total??
Just two skeins total for one pair will do the trick!
Happy knitting! -Alyson
Can this be done on a single circular needle? I’m new to knitting in general but have never made anything in the round yet.
Hello Jacob!
Since the circumference of the socks is so small, double pointed needles are really the best option since they can adjust to the size of the cylinder you’re creating. You can use what’s called the “Magic Loop Method” to make these with one longer pair of circular needles, but it takes just a little more finagling to get into the groove of it.
I would recommend making a hat or a basic leg warmer before jumping into this larger pair of slightly more intricate socks. I don’t want you to get frustrated half way through! Please let us know if you have any other questions and we’re glad you’re getting into the knitting lifestyle! -Alyson
Hello, I am wondering if this sock can be worked from the top down rather than toe up without any major changes.
Hi Sarah-
Unfortunately it’s not a simple calculation to change a pattern in this way and unless you’ve done it many times before we don’t recommend it. But we are always happy to help you through any questions you may have on the existing pattern, if you do decide to knit them toe up after all!
Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
Molly,
thanks for your feedback. I am going to go ahead and knit it up as it’s written.
Can you answer one more question for me? Due to budget, I decided to knit this in Knit Picks Stroll yarn (Gauge – 7-8 sts = 1 inch). I realized post purchase that the Gauge here is slightly larger ( 8 1/4 sts = 1 inch). I started on a pair of size 2 dons, but it looked a little loose, even on the swatch. I’m going to snag a size 1 set tomorrow, but my question is this: if I am knitting this for a medium size (8-8/5 sized shoe), do I need to shoot for knitting the large sized sock with the smaller needles?
Hello Sarah!
You’re definitely on the right track! You will need to maintain the gauge of 8 1/4 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch regardless of the size socks you are making. That way the density of the fabric will be ideal and you will be able to create the right size socks in the end.
Let us know how the smaller needles work out! Best of luck! -Alyson
Hi Sarah-
No, you will need to knit a smaller size if you are getting fewer stitches per inch. But there’s no guarantee that they will fit properly if you don’t get the proper gauge so I would really recommend getting the same gauge as listed in the pattern.
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Hello,
I have another question. I have purchased a different yarn to knit these with, Knit Picks Stroll, though I neglected to check the gauge of the yarn against the required gauge. This yarn works better on a size 1 needle. But that makes me afraid I will make the wrong size. Can you advise? If I was going to make the size 8, should I now make the size 9 because the yarn is slightly smaller and the needles are as well?
Hello Sarah!
Are you getting 8 1/4 stitches per inch with your Knit Picks yarn and size #1 needles? As long as you get this gauge, you will be just fine with the sizing! If you are getting more than 8.25 stitches per inch, then you are correct—the socks will turn out smaller than the desired size, so you may want to make the larger size to compensate.
Hope this helps and happy knitting! -Alyson
Hi Sarah,
Great question! I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch on the needles that you would like to use. If you are getting fewer stitches to the inch that the gauge suggested above, I would suggest going up a size to accommodate the gauge that you are getting. You may also find that you like the fabric better and can get gauge on the suggested needles, in which case you would not need to change sizes. Knitting a gauge swatch, while not something all knitters are excited to do, can be really helpful when substituting yarns.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi there,
Because the wool I purchased was indeed a bit on the heavier side (sized at 7 3/4″ – 8 1/2″ rather than strictly 8 1/4″) I chose the “small” version, though I should be a “medium” according to the sizing information provided in the pattern. Still the sock is MUCH too big (wide and long). I’m not a particularly loose knitter, so I’m wondering if there is anything else I may have missed – or maybe the pattern for just the foot can be adjusted to be smaller? (the leg part seemed to fit ok, but that’s probably due to big calves which give me trouble with buying boots all the time, too.) Any suggestion?
Thanks so much!
Hello Lisa,
Even if the yarn recommends a slightly different gauge than a pattern, you can usually manipulate the needle size in order to make it work. What gauge are you actually getting for your sock? Did you use much larger needles than the pattern recommends?
You can always adjust the length of the foot to accommodate your own size, but changing the width of the foot and the construction of the entire sock can be a lot more work! Let me know what gauge you’re getting exactly and we can hopefully troubleshoot together! Thanks! -Alyson
OMGoodness! These are beautiful and modern. I would love to learn how to do this — it seems so complicated. Thanks for the inspiration though!
Hello Lana!
Its not too difficult! Have you made a hat? Are you comfortable with increases and decreases? If you’re ready for a bit of a challenge and comfortable with those techniques, you can definitely make them! We’re here to help you along the way. Give it a try! -Alyson
hello I am having a problem with the heel wrap. I understand how to do the wrap the problem is the p 16 . I am to put needle 2 and 3 on the same needle?
Hello, Darlene!
Thank you for writing in! Sorry for the very delayed response! The Turning the Heel section is worked over both Needles # 2 and #3 (see the Notes at the beginning of the section). So for Row 2 to purl 16 stitches, you will have the wrong side facing you and you’ll purl the 9 stitches that are on Needle #2 and then finish by purling 7 stitches from Needle #3, yo, p1, wrap and turn. Does that make sense? Please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Please make a video tutorial of this? I’m still struggling with the heel part and I’m too confused with the written instruction maybe a visual would help. Thank
Hi, Kat!
Thank you for writing in! I am sorry to hear that your having trouble with the heel! Unfortunately, we don’t have plans to make a tutorial for this, but I will certainly pass your recommendation along! What exactly are you struggling with? If you’d like you can always email a picture to us at Customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com or give a call at (212) 420-8796 and we can try to help you get through the heel!
Best of luck!
Kumeko
Could you please do a video showing how to do the gusset and heel??? I’m really having a hard time following the instructions.
Hello Nancy,
Thanks for your comment! At this time we do not have the resources to do a video on this project, but we will keep it in mind for future posts. Thanks for your suggestion! In terms of your difficulty with this, you are more than welcome to further explain to me the trouble you are having and I can do my best to help you out.
Thanks,
Adam
Hi there,
Just wondering if you might have this pattern from cuff to toe, instead of working toe to cuff? I’ve made so many from cuff down, and would love to do this one that way as well.
Raissa
Hello, Raissa!
Thank you for writing in! Unfortunately, we only have this pattern available as working from the toe to the cuff. Again, thank you for your question and if you have further questions please let us know.
Best,
Kumeko
YES, just start at the ribbing with the amount of stitches you were to end with, decrease when it said to M1 just make sure you have the same amount of stiches for each repeat as indicated. work to heel and make any kind of heel you like. I am working my sock this way and it is working GREAT.
Hollie
I can not make sense of the heel flap. Can the heel be done another way? I use to doing from the top down socks. I like my socks to go higher up and these seem to be the right length. I have small feet and ankles, but I am having a problem getting my socks (Top down socks) to stay up. I can get the foot and ankle to fit fine, but the top no.
Hello Nancy,
Thanks for writing us! Once you master this small technique, you’ll love doing toe-up socks! Let me break it down: you are knitting and slipping to create a thicker fabric at the back of the heel so there is less wear and tear. This is called a “heel stitch”. Also, you keep turning the work because you need to build the heel upward while not adding any rows to the rest of the sock. And finally, you are decreasing at the end of each row in order to join the heel flap to the rest of the sock without creating any holes in the fabric. Decreasing also takes away stitches so the sock will not be baggy around your ankle. I hope this clarifies things! Good luck and happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
I am stuck on the heel flap where you ssk on either side of the gap. I see from a previous (years ago) comment it’s not between needles. You gave a link on how to identify this gap but it’s broken. Can you help me figure out how to find the gap?
Hi Dina,
Click here for the link for the “Pom Pom Socklets”. Under “turning the heel” you’ll see what the gap will look like. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Love all of these designs, glad to be finally knitting one myself! I am confused on the maths for the stitching between the toes and the start of the increases.
My foot is about 9″ long, which points me to the instructions saying to knit until the whole piece measures 6″, 3″ short of the foot length. Then the instructions mention stopping 2 1/2″ short of the full foot length,
Which is it? 3″ or 2.5″?
Cheers!
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for writing in! The size that you will choose to knit for this pattern is based on your foot circumference. So you will choose small, medium or large based on the measurement listed under size for your foot circumference. Then, if you have selected the small, you will knit to 2 1/2 inches short of your foot length, for the medium you will knit to 2 3/4 inches short of your foot length and for the large you will knit to 3 inches short of your foot length.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
How many yards do these socks require? I know you recommned 2 skeins at 385 yds each for the yarn depicted. I have ~500 yds of a similar type of yarn in my stash and was wondering if it would be enough!
Hi Kimberley,
Thanks for writing in! Whether or not you have the yardage needed, you can divide your yardage in half, reserving one half for one sock and the other for the second sock. You can do this because the sock is constructed from the toe up, letting you knit the important parts first and knitting until you run out of yarn on the cuff. Hope this helps!
-Adam
I was able to print the pattern for Little Cable Knee Highs last week but have lost my pattern, now I do not seem to able to reprint it. Can you help me?
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for writing in! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
Best,
Cassy
I love these socks and I’m knitting these socks for a friend, but I’m confused about how to adjust them. The leg circumference sizes seem so small, even with an inch of negative ease. My friend’s calf measured 15″ at it’s widest point, so that’s 14″ with an inch of negative ease. That is still 4 inches larger than the “large” size of the pattern. The gauge with my yarn is 9 stitches per inch (unstretched), which would mean 126 stitches total, so I’d need to increase a total of 62 stitches (I knit the foot and heel with 64 stitches)…which is waaay more than the pattern has increased for the large leg size. Does this seem right?
And then I’d have to decrease after the calf since below the knee my friend measured 13″? I really want these socks to stay up! 🙂
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! The designer of these lovely socks has said that the calf comfortably stretches about 4-5 inches. So if you are knitting the largest size for your friend (such a kind gift!), you should be all set given how much the calf stretches using the original gauge. Given that your gauge is tighter than the 8 1/4 stitches per inch, you may need to increase a little more than called for. I would measure the calf once you get to the last increase for the largest size. If, with 4-5 inches of stretch, it will fit your friend, then you should be all set. If not, you can add a few more increases, being sure that you are adding multiples of 4 stitches to correspond with the ribbing at the top of the sock.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I just have to say, I was TERRIFIED of knitting socks! Time and time again, I tried to knit socks. I desperately wanted to accomplish this task. I just couldn’t find a pattern that I truly understood step by step. With each link and clear explanations, you have helped me do what I’ve set out to do for over a year now. Thank you so much! I can’t explain how excited I am to be able say that I now know how to knit socks. It might sound silly, but this is a big deal for me and I owe it all to you. Thank you!
Hi! I am having trouble with the cables of these beauties. I am finding that the stitches on the left side of the cable are wider than those on the right side of the cable. Do you have suggestions on how to correct this issue?
Hello Brandi,
Thank you for writing us! This is mysterious, my first thought would be that if you are using double pointed needles, sometimes you get loose stitches between two needles. To help avoid this, if the first stitch on the needle is a purl stitch, then it’s better to start the new needle above the previous needle. Also, always give the first stitch of each needle a bit of an extra tug to close the gap between needles.
I hope this helps! Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi,
I’m currently trying to knit these socks and I am stuck at turning the heel. I did all the wraps and turns perfectly, following the tutorial on short rows. However, I can’t figure out how to pick up the wraps when I get to needle 2. The instructions say to knit to the end of Needle 3, working the wraps together with the wrapped stitches, which is fine. Then I knit across Needle 1. But then, I get to needle 2 and I have wraps that are on the wrong side, but I am knitting on the right side by this point. How do I pick up the purl wraps when I am on the right side? I looked all over Internet and couldn’t find a way to do it.
Thank you so much in advance for your help!
Hello Genevieve,
Thank you for reaching out! Picking up your wrapped stitches on needle 2 can be a little tricky but you can do it! You will be doing the same thing you did on needle 3. Essentially what you are doing is taking the wrap off the stitch and then knit your stitch together with your wrap so that the wrap is sitting on the purl side. I hope this helps and please let me know if I can clarify anything for you!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hello. How can I adjust this pattern for a size 5 or 6 🙂 Thanks
Hi Leandra,
Thanks for writing in! The foot length is easily adjustable in this pattern, so I would knit the smallest size, or whichever size has a finished foot circumference about an inch smaller than your actual foot, and then try on the sock before beginning the heel to make sure the foot portion ends about two and a half inches from the back of your heel.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello, I am curious whether you can leave out the cable
Hi Margaret,
Great question! While omitting cables in a heavily cabled pattern will affect the fit, I think you should be fine leaving out this single narrow cable!
I hope that helps!
Julianna