Ainur Berkimbayeva For Purl Soho: Hop, Skip + A Jump Socks
Knit designer Ainur Berkimbayeva is expert at the clever and unique. Her Hop, Skip + A Jump Socks are both those things, but they are also ready to play!
A two-color rib serves as an ankle-hugging cuff, but the addition of a sweet, little bobble abandons practicality for a flourish so uplifting that hopping, skipping, and jumping may ensue.
Knit from top down, these socks bypass lengthy legs to get right to the heart of the matter: a fun-to-knit ankle, which is just a hop, skip, and a jump from the heel flap and gusset, then onto the foot and toe and ready for the next one!
Our hand-dyed Posy lends its super pretty colors to Ainur’s design. Machine washable and dryable, Posy is also designed for very soft and sturdy socks with its blend of superwash merino, cashmere, and a touch of nylon.
You’ll need just two or three skeins to cast on for any size from little toddler to big adult… But careful, Ainur’s Hop, Skip + A Jump Socks might just blast the top off your cuteness meter!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed for Purl Soho by Ainur Berkimbayeva.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoHopSkipAndAJumpSocks, and #PurlSohoPosy. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Purl Soho’s Posy, 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon. Each skein is approximately 159 yards/50 grams.
- Main Color (MC): 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) skein(s); approximately 110 (160, 210, 255, 305) yards required
- Contrast Color (CC): 1 skein; approximately 30 (35, 45, 50, 60) yards required
For our socks, we used…
- MC: Mourning Dove; CC: Pink Nectar
- MC: Lilac Mist; CC: Sour Gooseberry
- MC: Cloudless Sky; CC: Heirloom White
You’ll also need…
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 32-inch circular needles for Magic Loop OR a set of US 3 double pointed needles
- US 2 (3 mm), 32-inch circular needles for Magic Loop OR a set of US 2 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holder or scrap yarn
NOTE: Looking to knit your socks in double-time? Check out our Magic Loop: Two At A Time Tutorial!
Gauge
32 stitches and 44 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on smaller needles
32 stitches and 44 rounds = 4 inches in corrugated rib on larger needles
Sizes
Toddler (Kid, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large)
Finished Foot Circumference: 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) inches unstretched, comfortably stretching 1-2 inches
Foot Length: Adjustable
Samples: We made the Toddler, Kid, and Adult Small sizes.
Notes
Slip Stitches
Slip stitches purlwise unless specifically directed otherwise. When working a right-side row or round, slip the stitch with yarn in back. When working a wrong-side row, slip the stitch with yarn in front.
Color Dominance
For best results, float the CC under the MC throughout. If you knit with one color in each hand, hold the CC in your left hand and the MC in your right hand.
Make Bobble
With CC, knit in front and back (kfb) of next 2 stitches, turn work, purl 4, turn work, knit 4, turn work, purl 4, turn work, slip, slip, knit (ssk), knit 2 together (k2tog).
Corrugated Rib
(Worked over a multiple of 4 stitches)
Round 1: *P2 with MC, k2 with CC, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 for Corrugated Rib.
Pattern
Cuff
With Contrast Color (CC), cast 48 (56, 64, 72, 80) stitches onto smaller needles, dividing the stitches among 3 double pointed needles or arranging them on circular needles for Magic Loop. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place unique marker for end of round and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: Purl to end of round.
Switch to larger needles and join Main Color (MC).
Round 2: *K2 with MC, k2 with CC, repeat from * to end of round (see Notes: Color Dominance for tips on carrying yarns).
Rounds 3-11: Work 9 rounds in Corrugated Rib (see Notes).
Round 12: *P2 with MC, make bobble with CC (see Notes), repeat from * to end of round.
Cut CC leaving a 6-inch tail.
Switch to smaller needles.
Round 13: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 14–18: Knit to end of round.
Heel Flap
Row 1 (right side): K24 (28, 32, 36, 40).
These 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) stitches are the beginning of the Heel Flap. For this section, you will work back and forth on just these stitches.
Arrange the Heel Flap stitches on one needle, and place the remaining 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) instep stitches on hold on two other needles or a stitch holder or scrap yarn. Work the following rows back and forth.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 (see Notes), p22 (26, 30, 34, 38), slip 1.
Row 3: K24 (28, 32, 36, 40).
Row 4: Slip 1, p22 (26, 30, 34, 38), slip 1.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 eight (10, 11, 13, 14) more times.
Turn Heel
Row 1 (right side): K14 (16, 19, 21, 23), slip slip knit (ssk), k1, turn work. [23 (27, 31, 35, 39) Heel Flap stitches remain]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, p5 (5, 7, 7, 7), purl 2 together (p2tog), p1, turn work. [22 (26, 30, 34, 38) Heel Flap stitches remain]
Row 3: Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk (with stitch before and stitch after gap), k1, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 4: Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog (with stitch before and stitch after gap), p1, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 two (3, 4, 5, 6) more times. [16 (18, 20, 22, 24) Heel Flap stitches remain]
Toddler + Kid Sizes Only
Next Row (right side): Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, ssk, turn work. [1 stitch decreased]
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap, p2tog, turn work. [14 (16, -, -, -) Heel Flap stitches remain]
Gusset
NOTE: To learn how to pick up and knit, visit our tutorial and scroll down to the Along A Vertical Edge: Stockinette Stitch section.
Set-Up Round: Slip 1, k13 (15, 19, 21, 23), with right side still facing you, pick up and knit 11 (13, 14, 16, 17) stitches along edge of Heel Flap at the rate of approximately 1 stitch for every 2 rows, place marker, knit 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) on-hold instep stitches, place marker, pick up and knit 11 (13, 14, 16, 17) stitches along second edge of Heel Flap, place unique marker for end of round. [60 (70, 80, 90, 98) stitches]
Round 1: Knit to 2 stitches before first marker, knit 2 together (k2tog), slip marker (sm), knit to next marker, sm, ssk, knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Round 2: Knit to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five (6, 7, 8, 8) more times. [48 (56, 64, 72, 80) stitches remain]
Next Round: Remove marker at end of round, knit to next marker and replace it with unique marker for new end of round.
Foot
Work in stockinette stitch until sock measures 1½ (1½, 1¾, 2, 2¼) inches less than desired finished length, measuring from back of heel. Here are final Foot lengths for most sizes.
TODDLER SIZES
- US size 3 shoe (European 18) = 4⅜ inches
- US size 6 shoe (21) = 5¼ inches
- US size 9 shoe (26) = 6¼ inches
- US size 11 shoe (28) = 6⅞ inches
- US size 121/2 shoe (31) = 7¼ inches
- US size 131/2 shoe (32) = 7½ inches
- US size 1Y shoe (32) = 7⅝ inches
KID SIZES
- US size 2Y shoe (European 34) = 8 inches
- US size 3Y shoe (35) = 8⅜ inches
- US size 4Y shoe (36) = 8⅝ inches
- US size 5Y shoe (37) = 9 inches
- US size 6Y shoe (39) = 9¾ inches
WOMEN’S SIZES
- US size 6 shoe (European 37) = 9 inches
- US size 7 shoe (38) = 9¼ inches
- US size 8 shoe (39) = 9⅝ inches
- US size 9 shoe (40) = 10 inches
MEN’S SIZES
- US size 9 shoe (European 42) = 10½ inches
- US size 10 shoe (43) = 10¾ inches
- US size 11 shoe (44) = 11 inches
- US size 12 shoe (45) = 11½ inches
- US size 13 shoe (46) = 11¾ inches
Toe
Round 1: *K1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before marker, k2tog, k1, repeat from * one more time. [4 stitches decreased]
Round 2: Knit to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five (5, 6, 6, 7) more times. [24 (32, 36, 44, 48) stitches remain]
Repeat Round 1 only four (5, 6, 7, 8) times. [8 (12, 12, 16, 16) stitches remain]
Arrange remaining stitches on two needles, with instep stitches on one needle and sole stitches on the second needle. Graft remaining stitches with Kitchener Stitch.
Finishing
Weave in all ends, and then make another sock!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Hi,
Sooooooo cute. Could I make 2 pairs of toddler socks from 2 skeins of Posy?
Thanks,
Ann
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing in! Each skein of Posy is 159 yards and the toddler size uses 110 yards of the Main Color and 30 yards of the Contrasting Color! So if you want to make 2 pairs, you wouldn’t have enough left over to make an identical pair but you would have enough for a 2nd pair if you switch the colors and use the main color as the contrasting color and the contrasting color as the main color! Since it would be cutting it pretty close with the amount leftover from the main color, just be sure that your gauge is consistent before you begin and be careful how much you use for your ends (don’t make them too long) to ensure you have enough!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Wayyyyy cute. Now I need the yarn.
Hi, Could you please indicate the level of difficulty? I’ve never knitted socks before. Also is there a video? Many thanks
Hi Susanne,
Thanks for writing in! I would say as a sock pattern this would be an advanced beginner level pattern! For the most part, this is a very basic, traditional sock pattern, the construction is very simple and straightforward. The more advanced techniques come in towards the ankle! However, I think if this is your first pair of socks, it is certainly doable! We don’t have a specific tutorial for this pattern but we have an excellent collection of tutorials for many of the techniques used here! You can find our full list of tutorials here: Knitting Tutorials
You can also write a comment here at any time if you run into any issues or if you have any questions, I am happy to help! You can also email us directly at [email protected]
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you so much for your reply. I will definitely add this to my project list!
I’m not much of a sock knitter, but these… these I’m going to make! Thank you so much for the pattern!
Am going to make these socks for my mother as soon as the yarn arrives! Too cute.
Hi! Any recommendations for how to size this down to an infant or baby dimension? They’re so incredibly cute. Thanks!
Hi Jocelin,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, the toddler size is the smallest size that we offer instructions for with these socks, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello, I have questions regarding re-fixing the dyes. I saw on previous patterns using Posy that some colors need re-fixing. Would “cloudless sky” or “Bellflower blue” require re-fixing? and if re-fixing is needed (particularly when worked with white), would you know a method that does not require a microwave as I don’t have one.
Many thanks!
Catherine
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out! We always recommend re-fixing dye with hand-dyed yarns like Posy, however, bleeding is more prominent in the more saturated colors! So I think you should be good to go with Cloudless Sky since it is a pretty light color, but I would recommend re-fixing Bellflower Blue since it is a more saturated color.
The heat setting is the most necessary part of this process. The microwave effectively steams the yarn gently without requiring additional specialty equipment such as a steamer pot with a top that you do not intend on using for food again. Additionally, the alternate method requires careful watching, has a lot more room for error and is quite complex. I would suggest doing a bit of research for alternate methods that do not involve microwaves to ensure you get the best result!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello,
My shoe size is 12 so can I add stitches to this pattern to ensure it will fit me?
You show men’s sizes, but I am not sure the pattern for men, as I could use that one too. I purchased my yarn, but may need to get some more. Thanks!
Hi Elsie,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend choosing a size to work from to best fit the circumference of your foot, then when you reach the FOOT section of the pattern you will work in stockinette until you reach your desired length. For this section, we have included the guide for final Foot lengths for most sizes. This shows sizes ranging from toddlers to adult men and women sizing! You can follow the size that best represents your foot, but be sure to stop the FOOT section 2-2 1/2 inches from the final length of your foot (depending on how long your toes are!) so that you can move on to the TOE section.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
What is Magic Loop? Thanks!
Hi Mary,
thanks for reaching out! Magic Loop is a technique for knitting smaller items like socks in the round instead of using double pointed needles! For more information and to see how this technique works, please check out our Magic Loop tutorial!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, I love this pattern and recently bought your Posy yarn and I’m now ready to start. However, I usually knit socks with a #1 or #2 needle and use fingering weight yarn. Your pattern is calling for a #2 and #3. Are these socks meant to wear with shoes? Silly question but need to ask! I’d almost rather use a #2 for the socks, so I’m guessing I just need to check my gauge and/or cast on more stitches. I usually co 62/64 stitches. I wear a size 9 shoe. Thanks for your help! Regards, Cindy
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for reaching out! These socks can be worn with or without shoes! Posy is a fingering weight yarn but it is a bit on the thicker side compared to most sock yarns, so to get the accurate gauge we recommend using a 2 and 3 needle, of course, I always recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to make sure you are consistent with the pattern! I would also recommend sticking to the pattern and the cast on amounts we have provided (depending on your size) this will ensure that the pattern works correctly with the bobbles and the rest of the sock shaping.
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
I missed something as I got into toe are. I am not sure where to put the markers. I have taken out to this twice and know something is wrong. What does round 1 in the toes area mean? And how many markers are there?
Hi Vickey,
Thanks for reaching out! You should have placed the markers during the setup round for the gusset, and then at the end of the gusset instructions before starting the FOOT section you should have removed the marker at end of the round, knit to the next marker, and replaced it with a unique marker to indicate the new end of round. So at this point, you should only have 2 markers placed. These two markers should be on either side of the sock to help orient you for the top shaping (indicating where to decrease.)
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Gianna, I am making the skip, hop socks for a toddler, i am up to the turn heel. It says to k 14 then ssk k1. It says you should have 22 stitches left, I have 16. Seems incorrect to me. Coul u help me? Also what is a unique marker they are referring to?
Hi Harriet,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you may be counting the remaining stitches on your needle and not the total stitches! For the toddler size, you should have 24 stitches total at the start of the heel flap, with row 1 of the turn heel, you should k14, then ssk (decreasing 1 stitch) then k1 and turn your work, after this, you should have 23 stitches total (counting all of the heel flap stitches not just the ones remaining after your turn your work) since you should have started with 24 and have only decreased 1 stitch.
The unique stitch marker you should have placed right after casting on when you join the work in the round, this marks the beginning/end of the round so that you can keep track of your rows.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I am knitting the toddler size of this sock and at the Foot where I knit stockinette stitch until sock measures 1.5 inches less than the desired length which in my case is 4 3/8 inches. That means 2 7/8 inch and practically no stockinette rows. Am I reading this correctly? I’m confused.
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct you will knit until the sock is about 1 1/2″ shorter than your desired length!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am an experienced knitter and I have knitted up three swatches for this pattern, using Posy, on #2, #1.5 and #1 needles. The most stitches per inch that I got, on the #1’s, was 27-28 stitches per 4 inches. The gauge states that you should be knitting at 32 stitches per 4 inches on the smaller needles. I am a fairly tight knitter. I do not know how to proceed with this pattern given the gauge instructions. I have already bought six skeins of the Posy colors suggested in the illustrated pattern, and wound them into balls. These were to be Christmas presents. This is the first time I have had trouble making gauge with your patterns. I even blocked all three swatches to be sure they were flat. I usually find that I knit pretty much according to gauge, using the recommended wool and needle size. Any suggestions?
Hi Avis,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m so sorry to hear that you haven’t been able to start the project yet, but all the swatching you’re doing is absolutely incredible and I know the final socks are going to be stunning thanks to all your endeavors! I would suggest going down again to a US 0 needle to see if you can get gauge that way. The featured yarn, Posy, is fingering weight but it tends to be slightly on the thicker side compared to most sock yarns, so that might be affecting your gauge slightly. I hope this was helpful! Please feel free to reach out again with any other questions.
All the best,
Cat
Hello there. I love the cuff and the contrast in this pattern as well as the softness of the yarn. I seem to be having problems with the stitch count in the pattern where you do the Heel Turn. When I follow your pattern for the adult size medium, I keep getting the gusset to be off center. I had to use a sock formula to make the pattern work. I’m not sure what I was doing wrong. Thank you! Amy
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m sorry that your socks are ending up a bit lopsided! Can you clarify exactly how the gusset is off center? That would really help me troubleshoot what might be going on here!
In the meantime, I have some thoughts about a common place in the pattern where a small miscounting could lead to larger problems later on. On Rows 1 and 2 of the TURN HEEL section, it’s very important to get the stitch counts correct! After you work these two rows, you should have 13 stitches, then the gap, then 10 stitches, and then 13 more stitches that you don’t knit on this row at all. So basically, the 10 stitches here must be centered for the rest of the heel to be centered as well.
I hope this helps, and I’ll keep an eye out for more details about your own work!
All the best,
Lili
The corrugated rib instructions say k2 MC k2 CC but the pictures show k2 p2. Are the instructions incorrect?
Hi Akelo,
Thanks for writing in. Here’s what I’m seeing for the Corrugated Rib instructions:
Round 1: *P2 with MC, k2 with CC, repeat from * to end of round.
It looks like the pattern is correct and says p2! Hope this helps clear things up.
All the best,
Lili
I also noticed that my printed pattern states: CUFF
Round 1: Purl to end of round
Round 2: K2 with MC, K2 with CC, repeat from*to end of round. No Purl mentioned in the instructions.
Looked at the photo image and noticed K2 P2 corrugated cuff.
I was half way into the cuff when I noticed the error. Ugh. !!
A new knitter may not recognize the error.. please fix
Hi T,
Thank you for writing in. The instructions are correct in that you will first K2 with MC and K2 with CC. For rounds 3-11, you will follow the instruction in the NOTES sections which is:
CORRUGATED RIB
(Worked over a multiple of 4 stitches)
Round 1: *P2 with MC, k2 with CC, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 for Corrugated Rib.
I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
The patterns says to use US2 (3mm) knitting needles, but US2 is 2.75mm. So which should I use, US2 or 3mm for the smaller size? Thanks!
Hi Hanna,
Thanks for your question! The sizes of the needles listed in this pattern may not align with the same sizes of your needle gauge, since different needle companies sometimes assign the millimeter measurements to different US sizes. These inconsistencies, while frustrating, are very common when comparing needles, so when in doubt we suggest relying on metric sizes (mm)…they’re standardized! And as long as you’re achieving the correct gauge for your pattern with the needles you’re using, you’ll be totally fine continuing with those needles.
I hope this helps clear things up, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
could you make this a calf-length sock by working the cuff longer? Or would you have to decrease?
Hi Isabelle,
What a great idea! You can definitely make the cuffs on these socks longer, but you will likely need to cast on more stitches and then decrease so that they’re large enough to fit over your calves. You could incorporate these extra stitches in the purl columns of the corrugated ribbing and then decrease the extra purl stitches away as you knit the cuff. That would create the smoothest decrease slope!
All the best,
Lili