Our Classic Knit Jacket embraces the Japanese aesthetic principle of kanso. Kanso is the idea that a sense of grace and calm emerges from designs that are pared down to their most basic forms.

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

To keep our Jacket simple, we knit up a timeless silhouette in smooth stockinette stitch. Our no-fuss approach highlights the unique beauty of Purl Soho’s Lanecardate Feltro, a super cozy and sturdy blend of superfine wool and angora.

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

Knit from the top down with set-in sleeves, we also kept our Classic Knit Jacket’s construction as easy as can be. Simple, elegant, and refined… Kanso! -Kristy

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoClassicKnitJacket. We can’t wait to see what you make!

Materials

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho
  • 6 (7, 7, 8) (9, 9, 10) (10, 11, 12, 12) skeins of Purl Soho’s Lanecardate Feltro, 75% superfine wool, 25% Caregora angora. Each skein is approximately 98 yards/100 grams; approximately 585 (635, 685, 750) (795, 860, 915) (965, 1020, 1085, 1140) yards required. We used the color Medium Gray, Grigio 3. (NOTE: We no longer carry this yarn. Some alternatives are Purl Soho’s Lovebird or Manos Del Uruguay’s Franca.)
  • US 15 (10 mm), 32-inch circular needles
  • US 15, 16-inch circular needles
  • A set of US 15 double pointed needles
  • Two jumbo stitch markers
  • Stitch holders or scrap yarn

Gauge

10 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Sizes

NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!

36 (39¼, 42½, 45½) (48¾, 52, 55¼) (59¼, 62½, 65½, 68¾)

To fit actual chest circumference of approximately 30–32 (33–35, 36–38, 39–41) (42–44¾, 45¾–48, 49–51¼) (52¼–55, 56–58, 59–61½, 62½–64¾) inches, with 4–7 inches of positive ease

  • Finished Chest Circumference: 36 (39¼, 42½, 45½) (48¾, 52, 55¼) (59¼, 62½, 65½, 68¾) inches
  • Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22 (22¼, 22½, 22¾) (23, 23½, 24) (24½, 25, 25½, 26) inches
  • Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 13½ (13¼, 13¼, 13) (12¾, 12¾, 13¼) (13½, 13¾, 14, 14¼) inches
  • Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16¾ (17, 17, 17½) (17½, 18, 18) (18¼, 18½, 18¾, 19) inches

SAMPLE: The sweater shown here is size 42½, worn with 6 inches of ease.

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

Notes

Construction

You will work this garment from top down, starting with the Back and working down to bottom of Armholes. You pill pick up at Back Shoulders and simultaneously work Right and Left Fronts down to bottom of Armholes, then cast on for Underarms and work Body in one piece down to bottom. There, you will pick up stitches around entire edge in order to work an I-Cord bind off. Finally, you will pick up and knit each Sleeve in the round from top to bottom.

Abbreviations

SHORT-ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)

NOTE: For more information about this technique, please visit our Short Rows Tutorial.

On the right side: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.

On the wrong side: Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so right side is facing you.

RLI (RIGHT LIFTED INCREASE)

NOTE: For more help with this increase, visit our Lifted Increase Tutorial.

Lift right leg of stitch below next stitch on left needle onto left needle and knit it. [1 stitch increased]

2-Stitch I-cord Bind Off

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

Cable cast on 1 stitch.

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

*Knit first stitch on left needle, then knit second and third stitches together through the back loops. Slip two stitches on right needle back to left needle and repeat from * until you have bound off all stitches and you are back at the beginning of the round and two I-cord stitches remain on right needle.

  • Post Image
  • Post Image
  • Post Image

Cut yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail.

Remove first stitch from right needle and pull on the loop of the stitch to bring tail through so that there is no longer a loop, just a tail. Thread the tail through the remaining stitch.

  • Post Image
  • Post Image

With a tapestry needle, neatly join the end of the I-cord to the beginning by threading the yarn underneath the first bound-off stitch.

Pattern

Back

BEGIN

Use a Long Tail Cast On to cast 36 (38, 40, 42) (44, 46, 48) (48, 50, 52, 52) stitches onto 32-inch circular needles. Do not join for working in the round.

Set-Up Row (wrong side): P10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15), pm (place marker), p16 (16, 16, 18) (18, 20, 20) (22, 22, 22, 22), pm, p10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15).

SHAPE SHOULDERS

NOTE: In this section you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row. For extra help, see Notes.

Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to next marker, sm (slip marker)] 2 times, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t (see Notes).

Short Row 2 (wrong side): [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.

Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.

Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.

Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of row.

Row 6: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, purl to end of row.

Removing stitch markers, work even in stockinette stitch until piece measures 5 (5½, 5¼, 5) (5½, 5½, 5½) (4, 4¾, 4½, 4¼) inches, measuring along selvage. End with a wrong-side row.

Shape Armholes

Increase Row (right side): K2, RLI (see Notes), knit to last 3 stitches, RLI, k3. [2 stitches increased]

Next Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.

Repeat last two rows 3 (3, 4, 5) (5, 6, 6) (9, 8, 9, 10) more times. [44 (46, 50, 54) (56, 60, 62) (68, 68, 72, 74) stitches]

Cut yarn and place stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

Front

Pick Up at Shoulders

Pick-Up Row (right side): With right side of Back facing you and using 32-inch circular needles, join yarn and pick up and knit 10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15) stitches along cast-on edge (for Right Front); skip center 16 (16, 16, 18) (18, 20, 20) (22, 22, 22, 22) cast-on stitches (for Back Neck); with a separate ball of yarn, join yarn and pick up and knit 10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15) stitches along remaining cast-on edge (for Left Front). [10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15) stitches for each Front]

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

Shape Shoulders

NOTE: In this section you will use short rows for shaping and will work Left and Right Fronts at the same time, using separate balls of yarn for each Front.

Set-Up Row (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to end of row.

Short Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.

Short Row 2: For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.

Short Row 3: For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.

Short Row 4: For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.

Short Row 5: For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of row.

Row 6: For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, purl to end of row.

Shape Neck

Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, knit to 3 stitches before Neck edge, RLI, k3; for Left Front, k3, RLI, knit to end of row. [1 stitch increased at each Neck edge]

Row 2 (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to end of row.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) more time(s). [12 (13, 14, 15) (16, 16, 17) (16, 17, 18, 18) stitches each Front]

Cast on for Front Neck + Continue Fronts

Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, knit to Neck edge, turn so wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches, turn so right side is facing you; for Left Front, knit to end of row. [18 (19, 20, 21) (22, 23, 24) (23, 24, 25, 25) stitches for Right Front; 12 (13, 14, 15) (16, 16, 17) (16, 17, 18, 18) stitches for Left Front]

Row 2 (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge, turn so right side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches, turn so wrong side is facing you; for Right Front, p6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7), p1 through the back loop (tbl), purl to end of row. [12 (13, 14, 15) (16, 16, 17) (16, 17, 18, 18) stitches each Front]

Row 3: For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, k6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7), k1 tbl, knit to end of row.

Work even in stockinette stitch until Fronts measure 5 (5½, 5¼, 5) (5½, 5½, 5½) (4, 4¾, 4½, 4¼) inches from pick-up row, measuring along selvage of Armhole.

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

Shape Armholes

Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, k3, RLI, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, knit to last 3 stitches, RLI, k3. [1 stitch increased at each Armhole edge]

Row 2 (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to end of row.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three (3, 4, 5) (5, 6, 6) (9, 8, 9, 10) more times. [22 (23, 25, 27) (28, 30, 31) (33, 33, 35, 36) stitches each Front]

Cut yarn for Right Front.

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

Body

Prepare To Join Back and Fronts

With wrong sides facing you, slip Back stitches onto needles next to Left Front stitches, then slip Right Front stitches onto needles next to Back stitches. Resume with yarn attached to Left Front and right side facing you.

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

Cast on for Underarms + Continue

Cast-On Row (right side): Knit to end of Left Front, *turn so wrong side is facing you and cable cast on 1 (3, 3, 3) (5, 5, 7) (7, 11, 11, 13) stitch(es) for Underarm, turn so right side is facing you,** knit to end of Back, repeat from * to **, knit to end of Right Front. [90 (98, 106, 114) (122, 130, 138) (148, 156, 164, 172) total stitches]

Work in stockinette stitch until Body measures 13½ (13¼, 13¼, 13) (12¾, 12¾, 13¼) (13½, 13¾, 14, 14¼) inches from Underarms, ending with a right-side row.

Work I-Cord Edging

With right side facing you and starting at bottom corner of Right Front, pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows up Right Front selvage.

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

With right side still facing you, pick up and knit 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches along Right Front Neck cast-on; pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows around Right Neck edge; pick up and knit one stitch in each stitch across Back Neck; pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows around Left Neck edge; pick up and knit 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches along Left Front Neck cast-on; pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows down Left Front selvage.

With right side facing you and working across bottom Body stitches first, bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off (see Notes).

Sleeves

Pick Up

Pick-Up Round: With right side facing you and using 16-inch circular needles, begin at center of Underarm and pick up and knit 16 (17, 18, 20) (21, 22, 23) (24, 25, 26, 27) stitches evenly up one side of Armhole to top of Shoulder; pick up and knit 16 (17, 18, 20) (21, 22, 23) (24, 25, 26, 27) stitches evenly down other side of Armhole to center of Underarm. Place marker for end of round and join to work in the round. [32 (34, 36, 40) (42, 44, 46) (48, 50, 52, 54) stitches]

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

Shape Sleeve Cap

NOTE: In this section you will use short rows to shape Sleeve Caps.

Short Row 1 (right side): K22 (23, 24, 27) (29, 30, 31) (32, 33, 34, 37), wrp-t.

Short Row 2 (wrong side): P12 (12, 12, 14) (16, 16, 18) (18, 20, 20, 22), wrp-t.

Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, wrp-t.

Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, wrp-t.

Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 seven (8, 9, 10) (10, 11, 11) (12, 12, 13, 13) more times.

Next Row: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end-of-round marker.

Continuing in the round…

Next Round: Knit to end of round, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap.

Knit 2 rounds.

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho

Shape Sleeve

Note: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.

Decrease Round: Slip slip knit, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together. [2 stitches decreased]

Continuing in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, repeat Decrease Round every 1 (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) (1, 1, 1, 1) inch(es) 2 (2, 2, 4) (4, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8, 9) more times. [26 (28, 30, 30) (32, 32, 32) (32, 34, 34, 34) stitches remain]

Continue in stockinette stitch until Sleeve measures 16¾ (17, 17, 17½) (17½, 18, 18) (18¼, 18½, 18¾, 19) inches from Underarm or to desired length.

Bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind-Off.

Work second Sleeve identical to first.

Weave + Block

Weave in ends. If using plied yarn, separate plies and weave in each separately for a tidy finish. Block as desired.

Classic Knit Jacket | Purl Soho