Classic Knit Jacket
Our Classic Knit Jacket embraces the Japanese aesthetic principle of kanso. Kanso is the idea that a sense of grace and calm emerges from designs that are pared down to their most basic forms.
To keep our Jacket simple, we knit up a timeless silhouette in smooth stockinette stitch. Our no-fuss approach highlights the unique beauty of Purl Soho’s Lanecardate Feltro, a super cozy and sturdy blend of superfine wool and angora.
Knit from the top down with set-in sleeves, we also kept our Classic Knit Jacket’s construction as easy as can be. Simple, elegant, and refined… Kanso! -Kristy
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoClassicKnitJacket. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 6 (7, 7, 8) (9, 9, 10) (10, 11, 12, 12) skeins of Purl Soho’s Lanecardate Feltro, 75% superfine wool, 25% Caregora angora. Each skein is approximately 98 yards/100 grams; approximately 585 (635, 685, 750) (795, 860, 915) (965, 1020, 1085, 1140) yards required. We used the color Medium Gray, Grigio 3. (NOTE: We no longer carry this yarn. Some alternatives are Purl Soho’s Lovebird or Manos Del Uruguay’s Franca.)
- US 15 (10 mm), 32-inch circular needles
- US 15, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 15 double pointed needles
- Two jumbo stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Gauge
10 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
36 (39¼, 42½, 45½) (48¾, 52, 55¼) (59¼, 62½, 65½, 68¾)
To fit actual chest circumference of approximately 30–32 (33–35, 36–38, 39–41) (42–44¾, 45¾–48, 49–51¼) (52¼–55, 56–58, 59–61½, 62½–64¾) inches, with 4–7 inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 36 (39¼, 42½, 45½) (48¾, 52, 55¼) (59¼, 62½, 65½, 68¾) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22 (22¼, 22½, 22¾) (23, 23½, 24) (24½, 25, 25½, 26) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 13½ (13¼, 13¼, 13) (12¾, 12¾, 13¼) (13½, 13¾, 14, 14¼) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16¾ (17, 17, 17½) (17½, 18, 18) (18¼, 18½, 18¾, 19) inches
SAMPLE: The sweater shown here is size 42½, worn with 6 inches of ease.
Notes
Construction
You will work this garment from top down, starting with the Back and working down to bottom of Armholes. You pill pick up at Back Shoulders and simultaneously work Right and Left Fronts down to bottom of Armholes, then cast on for Underarms and work Body in one piece down to bottom. There, you will pick up stitches around entire edge in order to work an I-Cord bind off. Finally, you will pick up and knit each Sleeve in the round from top to bottom.
Abbreviations
SHORT-ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)
NOTE: For more information about this technique, please visit our Short Rows Tutorial.
On the right side: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
On the wrong side: Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so right side is facing you.
RLI (RIGHT LIFTED INCREASE)
NOTE: For more help with this increase, visit our Lifted Increase Tutorial.
Lift right leg of stitch below next stitch on left needle onto left needle and knit it. [1 stitch increased]
2-Stitch I-cord Bind Off
Cable cast on 1 stitch.
*Knit first stitch on left needle, then knit second and third stitches together through the back loops. Slip two stitches on right needle back to left needle and repeat from * until you have bound off all stitches and you are back at the beginning of the round and two I-cord stitches remain on right needle.
Cut yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail.
Remove first stitch from right needle and pull on the loop of the stitch to bring tail through so that there is no longer a loop, just a tail. Thread the tail through the remaining stitch.
With a tapestry needle, neatly join the end of the I-cord to the beginning by threading the yarn underneath the first bound-off stitch.
Pattern
Back
BEGIN
Use a Long Tail Cast On to cast 36 (38, 40, 42) (44, 46, 48) (48, 50, 52, 52) stitches onto 32-inch circular needles. Do not join for working in the round.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): P10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15), pm (place marker), p16 (16, 16, 18) (18, 20, 20) (22, 22, 22, 22), pm, p10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15).
SHAPE SHOULDERS
NOTE: In this section you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row. For extra help, see Notes.
Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to next marker, sm (slip marker)] 2 times, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t (see Notes).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of row.
Row 6: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, purl to end of row.
Removing stitch markers, work even in stockinette stitch until piece measures 5 (5½, 5¼, 5) (5½, 5½, 5½) (4, 4¾, 4½, 4¼) inches, measuring along selvage. End with a wrong-side row.
Shape Armholes
Increase Row (right side): K2, RLI (see Notes), knit to last 3 stitches, RLI, k3. [2 stitches increased]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Repeat last two rows 3 (3, 4, 5) (5, 6, 6) (9, 8, 9, 10) more times. [44 (46, 50, 54) (56, 60, 62) (68, 68, 72, 74) stitches]
Cut yarn and place stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.
Front
Pick Up at Shoulders
Pick-Up Row (right side): With right side of Back facing you and using 32-inch circular needles, join yarn and pick up and knit 10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15) stitches along cast-on edge (for Right Front); skip center 16 (16, 16, 18) (18, 20, 20) (22, 22, 22, 22) cast-on stitches (for Back Neck); with a separate ball of yarn, join yarn and pick up and knit 10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15) stitches along remaining cast-on edge (for Left Front). [10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15) stitches for each Front]
Shape Shoulders
NOTE: In this section you will use short rows for shaping and will work Left and Right Fronts at the same time, using separate balls of yarn for each Front.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to end of row.
Short Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 2: For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of row.
Row 6: For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, purl to end of row.
Shape Neck
Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, knit to 3 stitches before Neck edge, RLI, k3; for Left Front, k3, RLI, knit to end of row. [1 stitch increased at each Neck edge]
Row 2 (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) more time(s). [12 (13, 14, 15) (16, 16, 17) (16, 17, 18, 18) stitches each Front]
Cast on for Front Neck + Continue Fronts
Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, knit to Neck edge, turn so wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches, turn so right side is facing you; for Left Front, knit to end of row. [18 (19, 20, 21) (22, 23, 24) (23, 24, 25, 25) stitches for Right Front; 12 (13, 14, 15) (16, 16, 17) (16, 17, 18, 18) stitches for Left Front]
Row 2 (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge, turn so right side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches, turn so wrong side is facing you; for Right Front, p6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7), p1 through the back loop (tbl), purl to end of row. [12 (13, 14, 15) (16, 16, 17) (16, 17, 18, 18) stitches each Front]
Row 3: For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, k6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7), k1 tbl, knit to end of row.
Work even in stockinette stitch until Fronts measure 5 (5½, 5¼, 5) (5½, 5½, 5½) (4, 4¾, 4½, 4¼) inches from pick-up row, measuring along selvage of Armhole.
Shape Armholes
Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, k3, RLI, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, knit to last 3 stitches, RLI, k3. [1 stitch increased at each Armhole edge]
Row 2 (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three (3, 4, 5) (5, 6, 6) (9, 8, 9, 10) more times. [22 (23, 25, 27) (28, 30, 31) (33, 33, 35, 36) stitches each Front]
Cut yarn for Right Front.
Body
Prepare To Join Back and Fronts
With wrong sides facing you, slip Back stitches onto needles next to Left Front stitches, then slip Right Front stitches onto needles next to Back stitches. Resume with yarn attached to Left Front and right side facing you.
Cast on for Underarms + Continue
Cast-On Row (right side): Knit to end of Left Front, *turn so wrong side is facing you and cable cast on 1 (3, 3, 3) (5, 5, 7) (7, 11, 11, 13) stitch(es) for Underarm, turn so right side is facing you,** knit to end of Back, repeat from * to **, knit to end of Right Front. [90 (98, 106, 114) (122, 130, 138) (148, 156, 164, 172) total stitches]
Work in stockinette stitch until Body measures 13½ (13¼, 13¼, 13) (12¾, 12¾, 13¼) (13½, 13¾, 14, 14¼) inches from Underarms, ending with a right-side row.
Work I-Cord Edging
With right side facing you and starting at bottom corner of Right Front, pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows up Right Front selvage.
With right side still facing you, pick up and knit 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches along Right Front Neck cast-on; pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows around Right Neck edge; pick up and knit one stitch in each stitch across Back Neck; pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows around Left Neck edge; pick up and knit 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches along Left Front Neck cast-on; pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows down Left Front selvage.
With right side facing you and working across bottom Body stitches first, bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off (see Notes).
Sleeves
Pick Up
Pick-Up Round: With right side facing you and using 16-inch circular needles, begin at center of Underarm and pick up and knit 16 (17, 18, 20) (21, 22, 23) (24, 25, 26, 27) stitches evenly up one side of Armhole to top of Shoulder; pick up and knit 16 (17, 18, 20) (21, 22, 23) (24, 25, 26, 27) stitches evenly down other side of Armhole to center of Underarm. Place marker for end of round and join to work in the round. [32 (34, 36, 40) (42, 44, 46) (48, 50, 52, 54) stitches]
Shape Sleeve Cap
NOTE: In this section you will use short rows to shape Sleeve Caps.
Short Row 1 (right side): K22 (23, 24, 27) (29, 30, 31) (32, 33, 34, 37), wrp-t.
Short Row 2 (wrong side): P12 (12, 12, 14) (16, 16, 18) (18, 20, 20, 22), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 seven (8, 9, 10) (10, 11, 11) (12, 12, 13, 13) more times.
Next Row: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end-of-round marker.
Continuing in the round…
Next Round: Knit to end of round, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap.
Knit 2 rounds.
Shape Sleeve
Note: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Decrease Round: Slip slip knit, knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together. [2 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, repeat Decrease Round every 1 (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) (1, 1, 1, 1) inch(es) 2 (2, 2, 4) (4, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8, 9) more times. [26 (28, 30, 30) (32, 32, 32) (32, 34, 34, 34) stitches remain]
Continue in stockinette stitch until Sleeve measures 16¾ (17, 17, 17½) (17½, 18, 18) (18¼, 18½, 18¾, 19) inches from Underarm or to desired length.
Bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind-Off.
Work second Sleeve identical to first.
Weave + Block
Weave in ends. If using plied yarn, separate plies and weave in each separately for a tidy finish. Block as desired.
Is this knit with a bulky yarn or a super bulky yarn?
Hi Paolina,
Thanks for writing in! We used a super bulky yarn for this jacket, but the super bulky category includes a fairly wide range of yarn thicknesses. When considering alternate yarns, I would suggest taking a look at the recommended needle size and gauge on the yarn label to make sure it is close to 10 stitches and 14 rows to 4 inches on a US 15 needle.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have a question about the I-cord bind off.
After picking up all the stitches from the bottom corner of the right front all the way around to the bottom of the left front, where it says to bind off across the bottom body stitches…
Here’s my question…. I ended the pick up stitches at the left front bottom and the working yarn was left at the bottom of the right front where the pick up stitches began. Do I cut the working yarn off and start the bind off across the bottom with a new yarn?
Thanks to anyone who can help with this!
Pati
Hi Pati,
Thanks for reaching out! I believe that you shouldn’t cut the tail, but you should use the working yarn for the bind off!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m confused… So how do I get the working yarn from the lower right corner to the left corner to start the bind off?
Hi Pati,
Thanks for writing in again! It sounds like you need to work an additional row to get the yarn on the correct side to begin the bind off!
I hope this helps, but if you continue to have problems you can send us a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can troubleshoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
Thank you so much Gianna!
I’m curious,
Just before the bind off where the pattern says to end with a right side row… did I read it wrong? I knitted the right side row and ended up with the working yarn at the bottom of the right front. Should it say to end with the wrong side row so the working yarn is at the bottom of the left side?
Differentiating between the “right front” and the “right side” has me muddled up a bit!!
No matter what, I’m rolling again and really appreciate your help! Have a wonderful weekend!
Pati
Hi Pati,
Thanks for writing in again! I know the phrasing can be a bit confusing… So for example in the last row of the BODY section when we say “With right side facing and working across the bottom body stitches first, bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off” We mean the right side of the fabric facing you, not the right side of the work!
Have fun finishing this jacket, happy knitting!
Gianna
I really like this style of jacket…. do the measurements work if being made for a man?
Hi Raymond,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a relatively unisex style so the measurements should work to accommodate a man!
All the best,
Gianna
Can you recommend a yarn for this pattern for those who are unable to wear wool?
Hi Beth,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have a non wool option at this same weight, however you could use something like BLUE SKY FIBERS Worsted Cotton and hold it double to achieve a similar gauge! I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning the pattern to insure it is consistent or if it will need any adjustments!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Greetings to ALL.
I see such beauty in the Classic Jacket and the vest as well. This is my look. Letting the style and the tarn speak for themselves. Taking a lesson from the earth itself. I am sad I cannot purchase your yarn as my body rejects wool. Period. Isn’t it funny, a prime natural fiber and my beliefs, cannot be in sync. Sadly too is with any other natural fiber the essence is lost. I will never be in New York but if it was possible it would be there I would come first. I applaud you with keeping to your ethics so strongly. That’s all I wanted to say. So much continued well being for everyone there. Be well, stay well and always carry treats for the 4 legged ones, horses too, that make life so much happier.
Would it be possible to make this in a worsted weight yarn? I know the needle size (probably a US 6) would change as would the number of stitches cast on, etc., but would it be possible?
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out! If you are up for a bit of a challenge you can certainly knit this Jacket in a worsted weight! It would take a bit of re-gauging so I suggest working a gauge swatch with the worsted yarn you wish to work with on an appropriate needles size (typically we suggest a US 6-8) and the you can calculate from there based on your stitch per inch! I recommend checking out our All About Gauge tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use!
Warmly,
Gianna
Bonjour,
Avez-vous les explications en Français ?
Cordialement,
Claire GAILLARD
Hi Claire,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, our patterns are only available in english. Thank you for much for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’d like to try knitting this as a double (two-faced)knit as a heavier jacket. Am having trouble figuring out how to convert the number of stitches needed for this– in the double-knit baby blanket pattern it talks about double the number of stitches for the width you want (at appropriate gauge). Would that be the right thing to do?
Hi Martha,
Thanks for reaching out! That is such a fun idea, and a really great question! It may take a bit of playing around since the jacket has more dimension than a flat blanket but I think following the basics of the Double Knit Blanket should work out fine! The body pieces should be pretty straight forward, the only spot that may be a bit tricky is the sleeves since they are worked in the round. I would work a swatch double knitting in the round to see how the technique would work!
I hope this helps and please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi
I’m confused by the short row instructions. Specifically, what is meant by “twice”, I knit 4 do the wrap and then turn. Do I put back to the beginning and then knit again the four wrap and turn and purl back again?
Hi JW,
Thanks for reaching out! I presume that you are at the shape shoulder section?
In that case after the set-up row you should have placed 2 markers, so for example with row 1 you will Knit to marker, sm (slip marker) twice; meaning you knit to the first marker, slip the marker to the other needle, then continue knitting to the 2nd marker, and slip that marker to the other needle. You will then knit an addition 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) stitches after slipping the maker, then wrap the stitch and turn the work! You will then follow the same process for row 2. After you wrap and turn in row 1 you will move directly to row 2 purling to the marker, slip the marker to the other needle, then continue purling to the next marker, and slip that marker to the other needle and purl and additional 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) stitches, wrp-t.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this pattern and would like to use the recommended yarn (Lanecardate Feltro) but it does not seem to be available. Is there any information you can give me on it? Do you have a substitute if it is not available?
Hi Marilyn,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately Lanecardate Feltro has been discontinued and is no longer available. In it’s place I would recommend using our newest yarn, Woolly Wool! I also always recommend working a gauge swatch when using a different yarn than suggested in the pattern prior to beginning to insure you are consistent!
I hope this helps and pease let me know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love your patterns and your tutorials! My question is, could you felt this jacket??? Thanks!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I haven’t heard of anyone felting this jacket but I think you certainly could!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, I love this jacket. I have a question regarding picking up the cast-on stitches. When I do this, I’m basically losing ‘half’ a stitch at each end because the picked up stitch is created in between two stitches going in opposite orientation. So in order to have the same number of stitches, I need to ‘create’ one, either at the beginning or at the end of the cast-on row. Any recommendations?
Thanks!
Hi Ale,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d recommend you take a look at our tutorial on Picking Up Stitches and watch the video Along A Horizontal Edge. This should help clarify how to pick up each stitch so that you’re not having to create a new one.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
I love this jacket and have knit two of them! Now I’d like to try a different look with a hot pink cotton yarn, knitting the Icord trim in black. My yarn is Drops Safran yarn group A. Would it be possible to adjust the pattern to use this vastly different yarn?
Hi Sue,
Thanks for writing in! I think this jacket would look awesome in a hot pink and black combination! The only problem is that this pattern would be pretty difficult to adjust for a different gauge. If you want to tackle it and re work the pattern you certainly could but it may be easier to find a yarn that is a more appropriate gauge for the pattern!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Could you substitute linen yarn for this pattern for summer
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for reaching out! As long as the yarn is a similar weight and the gauge is consistent with the pattern, you could certainly use a linen yarn for this jacket!
Warmly,
Gianna
Would really like to make this. Saw where you recommended Whooly Wool but I’m unsure how to determine the yardage needed
Regards
Hi Beverley,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, Woolly Wool is a great option for this jacket! The original Feltro was 98 yards per skein, Woolly Wool has a bit more at 109 yards per skein, and we used 588 (686, 686, 784, 882, 882) yards (in order from the smallest to largest size) so for example, if you are knitting the smallest size you would need 6 skeins of Woolly Wool! Also just be sure to check your gauge prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
I love this pattern and am about half way through, my question is regarding picking up the stitches for the i-cord bind off… I pick up from the right lower front, up the front opening, around the neck and down the left side… when do I pick up around the back hem? or don’t I?
thanks so much, CX
Hi Colette,
Thanks for reaching out! You will only be picking up stitches around the front and the neckline of the jacket, not at the bottom edge!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Love the way this jacket looks and I’m almost done with it. Regarding the i-cord bind off, should I start picking up stitches without binding off the bottom edge?
Hi MH,
Thanks for reaching out! You will bind off all stitches using the 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off (following the instructions in the notes section of the pattern) Not by picking up any stitches.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
What about the icord edging? Should I bind off the bottom before starting the edging or should I keep it unbound and bind it off as I finish the edging?
Hi MH,
You will bind off the stitches as you create the edging, using the 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off (following the instructions in the notes section of the pattern), so you won’t need to bind off the bottom stitches before starting the edging!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Thank you for the Classic Knit Jacket pattern. Wondering about the instructions under Shape Shoulders, short row 4. It says to purl to wrapped stitch etc, k3, then wrp-t. Should it say p3 instead?
Hi Jennifer,
We’re so glad you pointed this out to us! You’re absolutely right and this should say p3 instead. Please know that it should be corrected now and reflected once you refresh the page.
All the best,
Zha Zha
I’d really like to make this. With what you are suggesting to substitute how many skeins would I need for xl?
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for writing in. I would recommend using Woolly Wool, in place of Feltro! Could you specify which size you’re making though? We actually do our sizing based on chest circumference measurements, which I’ll include below:
Sizes 36 (39¼, 42½, 45½) (48¾, 52, 55¼) (59¼, 62½, 65½, 68¾), to fit actual chest circumference of approximately 30–32 (33–35, 36–38, 39–41) (42–44¾, 45¾–48, 49–51¼) (52¼–55, 56–58, 59–61½, 62½–64¾) inches, with 4–7 inches of positive ease.
Let me know which size you want to make, and then I can absolutely let you know how many skeins of Woolly Wool you’ll need to make the jacket!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
Do you think that super soft merino with #12 needles to get 2.5 stitches per inch would work for this jacket? or would I need to combine it with another yarn to make it thicker, if so which one?
Thank you!
Caroline
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out. I think that it’s definitely possible to get 2.5 stitches per inch with Super Soft Merino! I would recommend trying it out on size 12 needles, but you may need to go up a size or two (the pattern actually uses size 15 needles). Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
We had a winter storm last week and I decided to use some leftover Purl Soho Super Soft Merino and make this jacket! It is a fun pattern and I have a suggestion which might benefit those of us who like double points. The pattern calls for using 16″ circulars (I made a size 42 1/2) when picking up the stitches to work the sleeves. If I make this again, I would just pick up straightaway with the double points. It’s tight on the circulars while doing the short rows and, because I’m not an expert knitter, my gauge on the circulars is larger than the gauge on the DP’s once I did shift (after the decreases). It’s not that noticeable but had I thought about it before I would rather have had the gauge on the sleeves more consistent. Great pattern!
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for writing in and sharing your suggestion! I am sure others will find this tip helpful!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
If I wanted to make this a vest instead of a jacket, how would I do this?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly make this pattern as a vest instead of a jacket by simply omitting the SLEEVES section of the pattern. For a nice finished edge around the armhole, I would suggest following a similar finishing technique as we did in our Drift Vest In Lovebird! You can find the information at the end of the pattern under the FINISHING section.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Love this and just bought yarn to make it. I’d like to make it longer (more like a duster) – where do I increase to do that? Thanks!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out. The best place to make this cardigan longer and wider would be during the body! At the end of the CAST ON FOR UNDERARMS + CONTINUE Section, the pattern reads:
“Work in stockinette stitch until Body measures 13½ (13¼, 13¼, 13) (12¾, 12¾, 13¼) (13½, 13¾, 14, 14¼) inches from Underarms, ending with a right-side row.”
At this point, it’s very easy to knit more rows to increase the length, as well as work increases to increase the width! I’d recommend working two increases on either side of the body (directly under the underarms) every few rows. The interval at which you work the increases depends on what you want the slope of the lower body to be.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can this jacket be knitted with straight needles ?
Hi Valerie,
Thanks for reaching out! We recommend working with circular needles for the Classic Knit Jacket because it is all worked in one piece and there are too many stitches to fit onto straight needles. This project is knit top-down and is worked flat on 32″ circular needles.
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
All the best,
Carly