Our Classic Knit Jacket embraces the Japanese aesthetic principle of kanso. Kanso is the idea that a sense of grace and calm emerges from designs that are pared down to their most basic forms.
To keep our Jacket simple, we knit up a timeless silhouette in smooth stockinette stitch. Our no-fuss approach highlights the unique beauty of Purl Soho’s Lanecardate Feltro, a super cozy and sturdy blend of superfine wool and angora.
Knit from the top down with set-in sleeves, we also kept our Classic Knit Jacket’s construction as easy as can be. Simple, elegant, and refined… Kanso! -Kristy
Materials
- 6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9) skeins of Purl Soho’s Lanecardate Feltro, 75% superfine wool, 25% Caregora angora. We used the color Medium Gray (Grigio 3).
- US 15, 32-inch circular needles
- US 15, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 15 double pointed needles
- Two jumbo stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Gauge
10 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
36 (39 ¼, 42 ½, 45 ½, 48 ¾, 52)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 36 (39 ¼, 42 ½, 45 ½, 48 ¾, 52) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22 (23, 23 ¼, 24 ¼, 24 ½, 25 ¾) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 13 ½ (14, 14, 14 ½, 14 ½, 15 ¼) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16 ¾ (17, 17, 17 ½, 17 ½, 18) inches
EASE: This garment is designed with a 4- to 6-inch ease around the chest.
SAMPLE: The sweater pictured here is Women’s Size 42 ½ inches.
Notes
Abbreviations
Inv inc (invisible increase): Pick up stitch from row below next stitch and place it on the left needle. Knit picked up stitch and then knit the original stitch. [1 stitch increased]
Wrp-t (wrap and turn):
- On the right side: Keeping the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
- On the wrong side: Keeping the yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Turn the work so the right side is facing you.
For more information about wrapping and turning, and also about working wraps together with wrapped stitches, visit our Short Rows Tutorial
Techniques + Tips
2-stitch I-cord Bind Off
Cable cast on 1 stitch.
*Knit the first stitch on the left needle, then knit the second and third stitches together through the back loops.
Slip the two stitches on the right needle back to the left needle and repeat from * until you have bound off all stitches, and you are back at the beginning of the round (two I-cord stitches remain on right needle).
To finish, cut yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail. Remove the first stitch from the right needle and pull on the loop of the stitch to bring the tail through so that there is no longer a loop, just a tail. Thread the tail through the remaining stitch on right needle.
With a tapestry needle, neatly join the end of the I-cord to the beginning by threading the yarn underneath the first bound-off stitch.
Weaving in the Ends of Lanecardate Feltro
Unravel the tail into three separate strands, and weave in each strand separately. This will prevent a bulky ridge in your finished knitting.
Pattern
Back
Begin
Use a long-tail cast on to cast 36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46) stitches onto the 32-inch circular needles. Do not join for working in the round.
Set-up Row (wrong side): P10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13), pm (place marker), p16 (16, 16, 18, 18, 20), pm, p10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13).
Shape Shoulders
Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to marker, sm (slip marker)] twice, k3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t (see Notes).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): [Purl to marker, sm] twice, p3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, k3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch from previous wrong side row, purl wrap together with wrapped stitch, p3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, knit to end.
Row 6: Purl to wrapped stitch from previous wrong side row, purl wrap together with wrapped stitch, purl to end.
Work in stockinette stitch (removing stitch markers) until piece measures 5 (5 ½, 5 ¼, 5, 5 ½, 5 ½) inches, measured at side of Armhole, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Armholes
Increase Row (right side): K2, inv inc (see Notes), knit to last 3 stitches, inv inc, k2. [2 stitches increased]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl.
Repeat the last two rows 3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 6) more times. [44 (46, 50, 54, 56, 60) stitches]
Cut yarn and place stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn.
Front
Pick Up at Shoulders
With right side of Back facing you and using 32-inch circular needles, join yarn and pick up 10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13) stitches along the cast-on edge (for Right Front); skip center 16 (16, 16, 18, 18, 20) cast-on stitches (for Back Neck); with a separate ball of yarn, pick up 10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13) stitches along the remaining cast-on edge (for Left Front). [10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13) stitches for each Front]
Shape Shoulders
Note: Work the Left and Right Fronts at the same time, using separate balls of yarn for each Front.
Set-up Row (wrong side): Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- Purl to end.
Short Row 1 (right side): Right Front- Knit to neck edge; Left Front- K3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 2: Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- P3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Right Front- Knit to neck edge; Left Front- Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, k3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- Purl to wrapped stitch from previous wrong side row, purl wrap together with wrapped stitch, p3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Right Front- Knit to neck edge; Left Front- Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, knit to end.
Row 6: Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- Purl to wrapped stitch from previous wrong side row, purl wrap together with wrapped stitch, purl to end.
Shape Neck
Row 1 (right side): Right Front- Knit to 3 stitches before neck edge, inv inc, k2; Left Front- K2, inv inc, knit to end. [1 stitch increased at each neck edge]
Row 2 (wrong side): Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- Purl to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) more time(s). [12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 16) stitches each Front]
Cast on for Front Neck + Continue Fronts
Row 1 (right side): Right Front- Knit to neck edge, turn so that wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7) stitches, turn so that right side is facing you; Left Front- Knit to end.
Note: While working the next row on the Left Front, knit the stitch next to the newly cast-on stitches through the back loop, if there is a noticeable gap.
Row 2 (wrong side): Left Front- Purl to neck edge, turn so that right side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7) stitches, turn so that wrong side is facing you; Right Front- Purl to end. [18 (19, 20, 21, 22, 23) stitches each Front]
Work even in stockinette stitch until Fronts measure 5 (5 ½, 5 ¼, 5, 5 ½, 5 ½) inches from pick-up row, measured at side of Armhole.
Shape Armholes
Row 1 (right side): Right Front- Knit 2, inv inc, knit to neck edge; Left Front- Knit to last 3 stitches, inv inc, k2. [1 stitch increased at each Armhole edge]
Row 2 (wrong side): Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- Purl to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three (3, 4, 5, 5, 6) more times. [22 (23, 25, 27, 28, 30) stitches each Front]
Cut yarn for Right Front.
Body
Join Back and Fronts
With their wrong sides facing you, slip the Back stitches onto the needles, next to the Left Front stitches, then slip the Right Front stitches onto the needles, next to the Back stitches. Resume with the yarn attached to the Left Front and the right side facing you.
Cast on for Underarms + Continue
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of Left Front, * turn so that wrong side is facing you and cable cast on 1 (3, 3, 3, 5, 5) stitch(es) for Left Underarm, turn so that right side is facing you,** knit to end of Back, repeat from * to ** for Right Underarm, knit to end of Right Front. [90 (98, 106, 114, 122, 130) stitches]
Work in stockinette stitch until Body measures 13 ½ (14, 14, 14 ½, 14 ½, 15 ¼) inches from Underarms, ending with a right side row.
Knit Edging
With right side facing and starting at bottom corner of Right Front, pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows up center edge of Right Front.
With right side still facing, pick up 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7) stitches along Right Front Neck cast-on; 2 stitches for every 3 rows around Right Neck edge; one stitch in each stitch across Back Neck; 2 stitches for every 3 rows around Left Neck edge; 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7) stitches along Left Front Neck cast-on; and 2 stitches for every 3 rows down center edge of Left Front.
With right side facing and working across the bottom body stitches first, bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off (see Notes).
Sleeves
Pick Up
With the right side facing you and using 16-inch circular needles, begin at center of an Underarm and pick up 16 (17, 18, 20, 21, 22) stitches evenly up one side of Armhole to where the Front and Back join; pick up 16 (17, 18, 20, 21, 22) stitches evenly down other side of Armhole to center of Underarm. Place marker for end of round and join to work in the round. [32 (34, 36, 40, 42, 44) stitches]
Shape Sleeve Cap
Short Row 1: K22 (23, 24, 27, 29, 30), wrp-t.
Short Row 2: P12 (12, 12, 14, 16, 16), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, purl wrap together with wrapped stitch, wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 seven (eight, nine, ten, ten, eleven) more times.
Next Row: Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, knit to end-of-round marker. Resume working in the round.
Next Round: Knit to end, knitting last wrap together with wrapped stitch.
Knit 2 rounds.
Shape Sleeve
Note: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Decrease Round: Ssk, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [2 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch (knitting each round), repeat the Decrease Round every 1 (1, 1, 3, 3, 3) inch(es) 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 5) more times. [26 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch, until sleeve measures 16 ¾ (17, 17, 17 ½, 17 ½, 18) inches from Underarm (or desired length).
Bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind-Off (see Notes).
Work second Sleeve same as the first.
Weave + Block
Weave in ends (see Notes) and block as desired.
PRINT
Thank you for this lovely pattern! I just finished it, perfect!
Love the look of this sweater and am making it using your suggested yarn in soft red. I am trying to figure out the short rows for the shoulder shaping. I have taken it out about 6 or 7 times. The area where I am doing the shaping just never looks right….kind of separated rows coming out at an angle with spaces between. I’ve never had this problem with short rows before and am wondering if it is the thick yarn causing the look or is there a specific technique you used to get it to look smoother. Maybe blocking will solve the problem? I’d like to send you a picture!
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for writing us. This seems like a problem I’d have to see rather than guess how to solve it. Please send your photo to store@purlsoho.com and one of us will be happy to get back to you asap. Thanks!
-Adam
I am just learn how to knit; is possible for me to make this?
How many yarn we need to make this jacket?
Thanks a lot
Lily
Indonesia
Hi Lily,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend reading the whole of the pattern and seeing if you are comfortable with all of the techniques that we use to achieve this lovely jacket. I would say that the short rows would probably be the trickiest for new knitters but if you have an adventurous spirit, you can achieve it.
For this project, you will need between 6 and 9 skeins of our Feltro. The number will depend on the size that you choose. All of the materials needed can be found above in the Materials section!
Best,
Cassy
Hello, I don’t understand the directions on the shoulder shaping. “Short Row 3. …. “knit wrap stitch together with wrapped stitch…” Am I to have two stitches on the needle, or just the knit stitch with the wrap below it? Thanks.
Hi Liz,
Thanks for writing in! When you are coming back across where you have wrapped and turned, it is time to knit wrap stitch together with wrapped stitch. To do this, you will pick up the wrap with the right needle from front to back and then insert the right needle into the stitch that is wrapped and knit the wrap and the stitch together. For a photo tutorial, you can check out of short row tutorial page here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/short-rows/
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
What weight yarn are you using? I have worsted weight, will that work?
Hi Connie,
Thank you for writing us! We knit this up in a chunky weight, so a worsted weight will not work unless you want the jacket much smaller.
-Adam
Beautiful pattern, thank you Purl Soho. When you list bust dimensions you are listing the actual size of the garment, with no ease. Correct? So 36″ chest is 36″ across the chest, not 40″? I’m just want to understand how these statements affect each other: “This garment is designed with 4” ease “. Thank you!!
Hi Sarah,
Great question! The size that we have listed is the finished measurement. So if your bust measurement is 36, you will add 4 inches and choose the closest size. Here that would be the 39 1/4″.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
i cannot understand how this stockinette stitch does not curl at the edges.
could you please explain this to me?
thank you in advance
maria prinianaki
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in! For this lovely jacket, we pick up all around the edges of the jacket and knit an i cord. The i cord edging prevents the edges of the stockinette jacket from rolling!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello, is your gauge listed 10st by 14 row = 4″ before or after blocking? Thanks!
Hi Vivki,
Thanks for writing in! The gauge listed here is pre-blocking. To be honest, given the felted nature of this yarn, we have found that blocking does not significantly impact the gauge of this lovely yarn!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am knitting the Classic Knit jacket. Love the pattern. When it says “measured at side of armhole,” does this mean to measure along edge or from cast on edge perpendicular to needles, as is normally done? This is a bit confusing. Would appreciate an answer, so I can move forward. Thanks so much!
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for the question! “Measured at side of armhole” means that you’ll measure from the first stitch on your needle down to the cast on edge, measuring along the edge of the fabric. I hope this makes sense!
-Adam
I love this pattern and am wondering how many yds/meters of yarn are in this garment when knitted up as I already have some chunky and would like to know if I have enough. Is it chunky or super chunky? Many thanks.
Mary
Hi Mary,
This is a lovely pattern. The jacket in the pattern used 686 yards, it is a women’s size 42 1/2 it took 7 skiens of the Feltro which has 98 yards in it. The yardage will very depending on the size you will be doing. The Feltro yarn is considered to be super bulky.
Have a lovely day,
Melissa
This is just a beautiful pattern and I — a beginner — look forward to becoming good enough to knit this. (I’ll add that your wonderful tutorials are advancing my skill faster than anything else could — a thousand thanks for them!) As eagerly as I await having the jacket in a fall/winter weight, my real problem is finding stylish, attractive garments for work in the summer heat and humidity. This would fit the bill, if you could recommend an appropriate yarn. Do you have anything light and silky enough, yet bulky enough for US size 15 needles? I’m guessing your beautiful linen yarn would not be quite chunky enough to work? Thank you for everything you all are doing at this site!
Hi Sue,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! Unfortunately, we do not have an alternative yarn that would be bulky enough for the gauge and has the structure of Feltro while being cool enough for summer. You could try doubling Blue Sky Worsted Cotton to see if you could get gauge. However, if you could get gauge, the resulting garment would be quite heavy indeed.
Best,
Cassy
Looked at the picture, half-read the ‘how-to’, however, could you give the European sizes? Specifically needles, yarn, etc. I’ve no idea how to adjust it to my needles and available yarns.
It’s a lovely jacket for chill summer evenings (like right now).
Hello marjolein,
Thanks for writing in! We used size 10mm(US15) needles for this project with a gauge of 2.5 stitches per inch. The yarn we used is super bulky, super chunky 14ply. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions.
-Marilla
Hi please could you advise me of the following, I live in South Africa so what mm needle I would use and what weight wool? Also how many balls do I get if they are 50 gram balls or 100 gram balls. You mention super chunky so will a chunky not suffice. Thank you, this is really a beautiful pattern and hope I come right with it.
Hi Pam,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! For this lovely jacket we used US 15 (10 mm) needles. Feltro comes in at roughly a bulky or super bulky weight (depending on the scale used). You will be looking for a yarn that comes in at roughly 2.5 stitches per inch. The number of balls needed will depend on the yardage that each ball contains rather than the physical weight of the ball. The yardage that you will need will be 588 (686, 686, 784, 882, 882) yards.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
I am starting the shape sleeve cap. You show Short Row 1, then Short Row 2, then Short row 3, then Short row 4. I understand all that. The next instruction is to repeat Rows 3 and 4 7(8, 9, 10, 10, 10, 11) more times. How can knit to a wrapped stitch on the previous row when you haven’t wrapped a stitch in the previous row. I’m lost. What am I missing? HELP.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help. In the sleeve cap, you will repeat short rows 3 and 4 7(8, 9, 10, 10, 10, 11) more times. Each of these short rows ends with a wrap and turn so the next row will have a wrapped stitch the row below.
I hope that this clears things up and let us know if you have any further questions!
Cassy
Has anyone converted this pattern using a worsted weight yarn? If so is it available?
Hi Paula,’
Thanks for writing in! This lovely jacket is only available in the gauge listed above. You may be able to hold two strands of worsted weight together but you would certainly need to knit a gauge swatch it see if this would work in a pleasant fabric.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you for your response. Didn’t see it until after I sent the second request. No response necessary.
Has anyone worked this in a worsted weight yarn? I would love to have the pattern if it is redone. Love the sweater and have been searching for something like it with a thinner yarn and have had not luck.
Thanks for your response.
Hi, I would love to make this for myself. What modifications, if any, to make it for a man? I do not like the usually square shaped men’s cardigans; something fitted more like a suit jacket is more appealing. Would this work as is? Thank you so much.
All the best,
Kieran
Hello Kieran,
Thank you for reaching out! I think this is a great idea. You shouldn’t need to make any modifications as there isn’t any shaping specific to the female form in this pattern. Plus, because it is knit top down you can try it on as you knit it which makes figuring out if you would like to make it longer or shorter quite simple. I say go for it!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello, I made the seafaring scarf with this yarn and absolutely love it. I am now planing on ordering some more so that I can make this jacket! I am wondering how much this yarn pills? The scarf is holding up beautifully but obviously encounters less wear and friction than a jacket would. Your feedback would be greatly appreciate 🙂
Thanks!
Hello Pastille,
Thank you for writing in! I’m happy to hear the seafaring scarf was a success. Because this yarn is felted it has minimal pilling making it well suited to be used for a jacket. I saw go for it!
I hope this helps and Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello. Just started this today. I’m a little confused on the short rows. For row 1, do I complete the entire instruction to knit to the marker, slip the marker, then knit 4 and Wrpt.. This would be followed by row 2. Followed by row 1 and row 2 again? I don’t understand the instruction twice. I am assuming “twice” means repeat the pair of short rows. Am I correct? Thanks
HI Faye,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! For row 1, you will knit to the marker, sm, knit to marker sm, k3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t. The “twice” refers to repeating the the instructions contained within the parenthesis. So short row 1 will end with a wrap and turn, placing the the wrong side facing you to begin short row 2. Each short row will be worked once!
I hope that this clears things up for you!
Best,
Cassy
Crisis averted. Talked to someone way smarter than me and I’ve been set straight. No need to reply to this comment or my duplicate posting below.
Thank you for allowing entertaining my knitting and technology dysfunctions out loud
Knit on.
F
Hi, an email drom a klitterig in the Netherlands I really like your patterns therefore i bought the book cocoknite workshop because i really like the sweater ontheffing cover of the book. Unfornutly thuis patron is nog decribed in the book. Can you give me de details of thuis sweater and tell me which yarn And needles were used. I ma now making the jacket , i tried to write the patron in the worksheet journal, but was not able to do so. Do you have an Example of the jacketpatron in a journal worksheet? Looking forward hearing from you. Kind regards, Marie-Jose
Hi Marie-Jose,
Thanks for reaching out! We love Julie Weisenberger as well! I will say that while we sell her lovely book, the patterns contained are Julie’s patterns and not Purl Soho patterns. The cover sweater is Emma version B for neck and body, but the sleeves from Emma version A. The sweater was knit with A Verb for Keeping Warm’s Big Sky using US 11 needles.
It may be helpful to reach out to Julie if you have further questions about using the book and workbook! She can be reached at knit@cocoknits.com.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
First of all, thank you for the pattern. Haven’t found anything else like it.
I currently have two different fluffy wool yarns myself, that I consider for this project, but the first one is 14 ply where 11 stitches and 15 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch and works with US 11 needles.
The second yarn is bulkier where 8 stitches and 10 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch and works with US 17 needles.
Since the yarn used in the recipe is in between I don’t know which one to use. Can I for example use the smaller yarn and then knit a larger size jacket?
Hi Melina,
You can definitely use the smaller yarn and knit a bigger size but the proportions will be a bit off since you aren’t matching the gauge of the pattern. I would recommend making a gauge swatch using the bigger yarn and sizing down your needles.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Hi,
I just finished the jacket and haven’t blocked it yet but I noticed my knitting edges at the front turn in more than shown in the photo. In the photo it looks like all of the icord bind off shows on the outside but on my one it only shows a thin strip. Would blocking solve this?
Hi Lucy,
Thanks for writing in! Blocking should help the issue that you are having quite a bit. Blocking allows your stitches to relax and allows you to manipulate your garment into the shape that you would like thus curtailing turning of fabric and light rolling!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
When you’re knitting the left side and right sides, how do you keep track of what side you’re knitting. Like if you’ve knit the right side on the wrong side and let’s say you need to answer the phone, how do you remember which side you’re on because it could be either.
Hi Cindy,
This is an excellent question! The easiest way to know whether you were working on the right side or the wrong side it to see where the yarn is coming from. You working yarn will always be coming from the right. So if you put down your work and come back to it, if the yarn is coming from the left side, you will want to turn your work until you see the working yarn coming from the right side and continue working on the stitches from the left needle to the right needle.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy