Classic Knit Jacket
Our Classic Knit Jacket embraces the Japanese aesthetic principle of kanso. Kanso is the idea that a sense of grace and calm emerges from designs that are pared down to their most basic forms.
To keep our Jacket simple, we knit up a timeless silhouette in smooth stockinette stitch. Our no-fuss approach highlights the unique beauty of Purl Soho’s Lanecardate Feltro, a super cozy and sturdy blend of superfine wool and angora.
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Knit from the top down with set-in sleeves, we also kept our Classic Knit Jacket’s construction as easy as can be. Simple, elegant, and refined… Kanso! -Kristy
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Kristina McGowan. Click here to see even more of Kristina’s designs!
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Materials
- 6 (7, 7, 8) (9, 9, 10) (10, 11, 12, 12) skeins of Purl Soho’s Lanecardate Feltro, 75% superfine wool, 25% Caregora angora. Each skein is approximately 98 yards/100 grams; approximately 585 (635, 685, 750) (795, 860, 915) (965, 1020, 1085, 1140) yards required. We used the color Medium Gray, Grigio 3.
- US 15 (10 mm), 32-inch circular needles
- US 15, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 15 double pointed needles
- Two jumbo stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Gauge
10 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
36 (39¼, 42½, 45½) (48¾, 52, 55¼) (59¼, 62½, 65½, 68¾)
To fit actual chest circumference of approximately 30–32 (33–35, 36–38, 39–41) (42–44¾, 45¾–48, 49–51¼) (52¼–55, 56–58, 59–61½, 62½–64¾) inches, with 4–7 inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 36 (39¼, 42½, 45½) (48¾, 52, 55¼) (59¼, 62½, 65½, 68¾) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22 (22¼, 22½, 22¾) (23, 23½, 24) (24½, 25, 25½, 26) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 13½ (13¼, 13¼, 13) (12¾, 12¾, 13¼) (13½, 13¾, 14, 14¼) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16¾ (17, 17, 17½) (17½, 18, 18) (18¼, 18½, 18¾, 19) inches
SAMPLE: The sweater shown here is size 42½, worn with 6 inches of ease.
Notes
Construction
You will work this garment from top down, starting with the Back and working down to bottom of Armholes. You will pick up at Back Shoulders and simultaneously work Right and Left Fronts down to bottom of Armholes. Then you will rejoin Back stitches, cast on for Underarms and work Body in one piece down to bottom. There, you will pick up stitches around the entire edge in order to work an I-Cord bind off. Finally, you will pick up and knit each Sleeve in the round from top to bottom.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
SHORT-ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)
NOTE: For more information about this technique, please visit our Short Rows Tutorial.
On the right side: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
On the wrong side: Keeping yarn in front, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to back. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to front. Turn work so right side is facing you.
RLI (RIGHT LIFTED INCREASE)
NOTE: For more help with this increase, visit our Lifted Increase Tutorial.
Lift right leg of stitch below next stitch on left needle onto left needle and knit it. [1 stitch increased]
2-STITCH I-CORD BIND OFF
Cable cast on 1 stitch.
*Knit first stitch on left needle, then knit second and third stitches together through the back loops (see above), slip two stitches on right needle back to left needle and repeat from * until you have bound off all stitches and you are back at the beginning of the round. [2 I-cord stitches remain on right needle]
Cut yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail.
Remove first stitch from right needle and pull on the loop of the stitch to bring tail through so that there is no longer a loop, just a tail. Thread the tail through the remaining stitch.
With a tapestry needle, neatly join the end of the I-cord to the beginning by threading the yarn underneath the first bound-off stitch.
Pattern
BACK
BEGIN AT TOP
Use a Long Tail Cast On to cast 36 (38, 40, 42) (44, 46, 48) (48, 50, 52, 52) stitches onto longer circular needles. Do not join for working in the round.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): P10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15), place marker (pm), p16 (16, 16, 18) (18, 20, 20) (22, 22, 22, 22), pm, p10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15).
SHAPE SHOULDERS
NOTE: In this section you will be working back and forth in short rows, turning the work partway through each row. For extra help, see Special Instructions.
Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to next marker, slip marker (sm)] 2 times, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t (see Special Instructions).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): [Purl to next marker, sm] 2 times, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of row.
Next Row: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, purl to end of row.
Removing stitch markers, work even in stockinette stitch until piece measures 5 (5½, 5¼, 5) (5½, 5½, 5½) (4, 4¾, 4½, 4¼) inches along selvage, ending with a wrong-side row.
SHAPE ARMHOLES
Increase Row (right side): K2, RLI (see Special Instructions), knit to last 3 stitches, RLI, k3. [2 stitches increased]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Repeat last two rows 3 (3, 4, 5) (5, 6, 6) (9, 8, 9, 10) more times. [44 (46, 50, 54) (56, 60, 62) (68, 68, 72, 74) stitches]
Cut yarn and place stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn.
FRONTS
PICK UP AT SHOULDERS
NOTE: In the following section, you will pick up Left and Right Fronts at the same time, using separate balls of yarn for each Front. Before beginning, make sure you have two balls of yarn to work with.
Orient piece so cast-on edge is at the top with right side of Back facing you.
With longer needles…
Pick-Up Row (right side): Joining one ball of yarn, pick up and knit 10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15) stitches along cast-on edge for Right Front; skip center 16 (16, 16, 18) (18, 20, 20) (22, 22, 22, 22) cast-on stitches for Back Neck; with a separate ball of yarn, pick up and knit 10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15) stitches along remaining cast-on edge for Left Front. [20 (22, 24, 24) (26, 26, 28) (26, 28, 30, 30) stitches total; 10 (11, 12, 12) (13, 13, 14) (13, 14, 15, 15) stitches for each Front]
SHAPE SHOULDERS
NOTE: In this section you will continue to work Left and Right Fronts at the same time, shaping both shoulders using short rows.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to end of row.
Short Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 2: For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p3 (3, 4, 4) (4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 5), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of row.
Row 6: For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, purl to end of row.
SHAPE FRONT NECKLINE
Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, knit to 3 stitches before Neck edge, RLI, k3; for Left Front, k3, RLI, knit to end of row. [1 stitch increased at each Neck edge]
Row 2 (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 2) more time(s). [24 (26, 28, 30) (32, 32, 34) (32, 34, 36, 36) total stitches; 12 (13, 14, 15) (16, 16, 17) (16, 17, 18, 18) stitches each Front]
CAST ON FOR FRONT NECKLINE + CONTINUE FRONTS
Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, knit to Neck edge, turn so wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches, turn so right side is facing you; for Left Front, knit to end of row. [30 (32, 34, 36) (38, 39, 41) (39, 41, 43, 43) total stitches; 18 (19, 20, 21) (22, 23, 24) (23, 24, 25, 25) stitches for Right Front; 12 (13, 14, 15) (16, 16, 17) (16, 17, 18, 18) stitches for Left Front]
Row 2 (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge, turn so right side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches, turn so wrong side is facing you; for Right Front, p6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7), p1 through the back loop (tbl), purl to end of row. [36 (38, 40, 42) (44, 46, 48) (46, 48, 50, 50) total stitches; 18 (19, 20, 21) (22, 23, 24) (23, 24, 25, 25) stitches each Front]
Row 3: For Right Front, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, k6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7), k1 tbl, knit to end of row.
Work even in stockinette stitch until Fronts measure 5 (5½, 5¼, 5) (5½, 5½, 5½) (4, 4¾, 4½, 4¼) inches from pick-up row, measuring along Armhole selvage.
SHAPE ARMHOLES
Row 1 (right side): For Right Front, k3, RLI, knit to Neck edge; for Left Front, knit to last 3 stitches, RLI, k3. [2 total stitches increased; 1 stitch increased at each Armhole edge]
Row 2 (wrong side): For Left Front, purl to Neck edge; for Right Front, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three (3, 4, 5) (5, 6, 6) (9, 8, 9, 10) more times. [44 (46, 50, 54) (56, 60, 62) (66, 66, 70, 72) total stitches; 22 (23, 25, 27) (28, 30, 31) (33, 33, 35, 36) stitches each Front]
Cut yarn for Right Front.
BODY
PREPARE TO JOIN BACK + FRONTS
With wrong sides facing you, slip Back stitches onto same needles next to Left Front stitches, then slip Right Front stitches onto same needles next to Back stitches. [88 (92, 100, 108) (112, 120, 124) (132, 32, 140, 144) total stitches]
Continue with yarn attached to Left Front and right side facing you.
CAST ON FOR UNDERARMS + CONTINUE
Cast-On Row (right side): Knit to end of Left Front, *turn so wrong side is facing you and cable cast on 1 (3, 3, 3) (5, 5, 7) (7, 11, 11, 13) stitch(es) for Underarm, turn so right side is facing you,** knit to end of Back, repeat from * to **, knit to end of Right Front. [90 (98, 106, 114) (122, 130, 138) (148, 156, 164, 172) total stitches]
Work in stockinette stitch until Body measures 13½ (13¼, 13¼, 13) (12¾, 12¾, 13¼) (13½, 13¾, 14, 14¼) inches from Underarms, ending with a right-side row.
WORK I-CORD EDGING
With right side facing you and starting at bottom corner of Right Front, pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows up Right Front selvage.
With right side still facing you, pick up and knit 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches along Right Front Neck cast-on; pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows around Right Neck edge; pick up and knit one stitch in each stitch across Back Neck; pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows around Left Neck edge; pick up and knit 6 (6, 6, 6) (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 7, 7) stitches along Left Front Neck cast-on; pick up and knit 2 stitches for every 3 rows down Left Front selvage.
With right side facing you and working across bottom Body stitches first, bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off (see Special Instructions).
SLEEVES
PICK UP
Pick-Up Round (right side): With right side facing you and using 16-inch circular needles, join new yarn and beginning at center of Underarm, pick up and knit 16 (17, 18, 20) (21, 22, 23) (24, 25, 26, 27) stitches evenly up one side of Armhole to top of Shoulder; pick up and knit 16 (17, 18, 20) (21, 22, 23) (24, 25, 26, 27) stitches evenly down other side of Armhole to center of Underarm. [32 (34, 36, 40) (42, 44, 46) (48, 50, 52, 54) stitches]
Place marker for end of round and join to work in the round.
SHAPE SLEEVE CAP
NOTE: In this section you will work back and forth in short rows to shape Sleeve Caps.
Short Row 1 (right side): K22 (23, 24, 27) (29, 30, 31) (32, 33, 34, 37), wrp-t.
Short Row 2 (wrong side): P12 (12, 12, 14) (16, 16, 18) (18, 20, 20, 22), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 seven (8, 9, 10) (10, 11, 11) (12, 12, 13, 13) more times.
Next Row (right side): Knit to wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit to end of round.
Continuing in the round…
Next Round: Knit to end of round, knitting wrapped stitch with its wrap.
Knit 2 rounds even.
SHAPE SLEEVE
Note: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Decrease Round: Slip slip knit, (ssk) knit to last 2 stitches, knit 2 together. [2 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, repeat Decrease Round every 1 (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2) (1, 1, 1, 1) inch(es) 2 (2, 2, 4) (4, 5, 6) (7, 7, 8, 9) more times. [26 (28, 30, 30) (32, 32, 32) (32, 34, 34, 34) stitches remain]
CONTINUE
Continue even in stockinette stitch until Sleeve measures 16¾ (17, 17, 17½) (17½, 18, 18) (18¼, 18½, 18¾, 19) inches from Underarm, or to desired length.
Bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind-Off.
Work second Sleeve identical to first.
WEAVE IN ENDS + BLOCK
Weave in ends. If using plied yarn, separate plies and weave in each separately for a tidy finish. Block as desired.
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This is so pretty and classic. Hopefully one day I will be confident enough to do this. This is the loveliest jacket I’ve seen. Love your daily posts.
Well said, all of it. And one day we both will be making this, I’ll bet!
Oh, this is absolutey wonderful in its simplicity.
While I am really an experienced knitter and tried so many techniques, the 2-stitch I-cord Bind Off is completely new to me and I cannot wait to try it out.
I simply love your patterns and the fantastic step-by-step instructions. Thank you so much for sharing!
Thank you for providing detailed instruction (including photographs) of the classic knit jacket. The photographs provides a view for me that the instructions did not provide. With never doing such a project the photographs adds a level of confidence that I can complete this project with ease.
I love when you do this to me! I just knitted a scarf out of some beautiful red bulky yard that was languishing. Bye bye scarf, hello elegant cardigan. Now do I do it before or after the Purl Soho sweater I just started? OK, I’ll have both going! Thanks for your wonderful patterns, advise and community
I love the look of this jacket, but my figure would not do it justice. Is there a way I could introduce some shape to it, with short rows maybe, without destroying the look?
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for writing! The nice thing about keeping the design elements for our Jacket simple is that adjustments are relatively easy to make, and adding short rows to shape the piece would not be too difficult. Two links that might be most helpful (and explain the process of introducing short rows in a clear way) would be http://www.conniehester.com/knitting-bust-darts.htm and http://www.craftsy.com/article/knitting-darts-for-the-perfect-fit. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
I love this pattern! How many skeins would be required if you did not knit the sleeves and left it as a vest?
Hi Gina,
What size would you be looking to make?
Thanks,
Kristy
I am in LOVE! This is simple, classic & cute….I truly need one and think it will make a great gift or two as well.
My question is about the sizing. Does your measurement include the ease, or should I be sizing this with the measurement stated? Is the best measurement to use the bust sizing? In other words, should I choose the closest bust size to mine, or should I size down knowing that there is 4 to 6 inches of ease, and subtract that ease in order to get the right size.
Hi Debbie!
The sizes listed are the finished measurements of the Jacket. What might be most useful is to take your bust measurement and then add about 4-6 inches to that number and make the size closest to it (for example, with a bust size of 36, it might make the most sense to make the size 42 1/2) Conferring with our schematic and seeing how those measurements compare to your own (especially at the shoulders) is also useful in helping to decide the best size to make. The nice thing about making the Jacket from the top down is that your final Body and Sleeve lengths will be easy to adjust, and you can place your stitches on a piece of waste yarn at any point in the process and try the piece on. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Should the bust measurment be taken at widest point of bust or below? I’m making the second smallest size and whille I do get the gauche, I’m a bit worried because it seems a bit small…
Hi Agata,
The bust measurement should be taken as the widest point. Where are you in the process? Often (when working the Back) the piece can seem smaller than it will ultimately be. You will also be casting on 3 stitches on each side when joining the Back to the Fronts which may give you the additional width you currently feel you’re lacking. I hope this helps clarify and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Thanks for writing,
Kristy
Thank you! What a beautiful & simple jacket. And thank you for your clear instructions with photos, so helpful!
This is a beautiful jacket and pattern. The amount of work that
went into creating these detailed instructions is incredible.
I have never done a project such as this, but after studying the
detailed instructions, feel confident I can create a thing of
beauty I will enjoy a long time. Thank you.
Merci pour ce patron très belle veste.
Il faut que j’ose entreprendre un tel travail, même si vos explications sont très claires.
If I want to make this larger could I just add extra stitches in the back or do I have to add in front also?
Thank you so much for your generosity with this free pattern and wonderful illustrations!
Hi Carol,
If you add inches to the Back, those same inches will need to be added to the Front. And although it’s a bit tricky to take into consideration all of the alterations you will need to make to the pattern in order to resize it (and beyond the scope of what I can write out here), we’re here to answer any general questions you may have along the way! Good luck and thanks for writing!
Kristy
Thank you so much for this beautiful jacket pattern. I am going to make this soon
Lovely, classicly styled jacket. Thanks for sharing the pattern. I’m a big fan of your designs.
This one tho, is not for me. I’ve tried using larger needles and just can’t tolerate them. I knit English, continental, right handed, left handed and Portuguese with ease, but any needle over a size 10 1/2 gives me terrible hand cramps.
Is there any chance you’ll be doing a cardigan with the same simple style using a size 7 (for instance)?
Hi Deborah!
We’re so sorry to hear that you experience bad hand cramping with larger size needles. Although we don’t currently have this pattern available at a smaller gauge, we will definitely keep your suggestion in mind going forward! Thanks for writing and for your kind comments!
Kristy
Deborah, I’m experimenting with smaller needles and different weight yarns to find the gauge that will work for this pattern. I also can’t manage anything larger than a US 11. I’ll comment here in a few days when I’ve worked it out.
Okay, so far, stitching two strands of Aran weight together on a US size 9 needle seems to be working. I haven’t blocked my practice piece yet, but the shoulders fit properly.
Also working well: Moonshine (Juniper Moon Farms) chunky on size 12 needles. I think I’m going with this one.
Oops…the chunky yarn on US size 11, sorry!
Okay, so I’ve stitched the back, shoulders, and armholes using two strands of Aran weight on US size 9 & 10, and with the chunky weight yarn on US size 11. This specific chunky yarn is not quite as thick as the Feltro.
I’m using stitch counts and measurements for a 39″ chest circumference. For the Aran weight with the size 9s, I cast on five more stitches than called for (remember, I’m knitting with two strands at once) for the back and shoulders, and four more stitches for the armholes. On size 10 needles, I cast on four and three extra, respectively. I’m not going to say these stitch counts are set in stone because I’m knitting with a looser tension than usual, so you’ll still have to swatch for gauge. Stitching with two strands together might get a bit tricky when it’s time to pick up and knit, but so far the fit is true.
The chunky Moonshine was more dense than I’d like when stitched on size 9 & 10 needles. It just didn’t shape as well and felt odd around the shoulders. On those two sizes of needles, I have a feeling the armholes would be uncomfortable just because the fabric you knit up is so thick and heavy. This yarn worked better for me on size 11s.
I keep going back and forth on which yarn I’m going to end up using for the for-real-not-testing-for-gauge jacket. So far, the double strands of Aran weight actually hold the structure better, but the chunky weight yarn looks more like the Feltro.
I won’t be able to work on the jacket anymore this week (we’re moving in two days, ugh), so at this point I can say yes, you can go with a lighter weight yarn and smaller needles, but 1) Aran or worsted would have to be stitched two strands together unless you’re committed enough to spend many hours working up the right gauge, but even so, 2) anything lighter, even if stitched two strands together, just won’t give this jacket the structure that Aran and chunkier yarns do, so I wouldn’t go with anything lighter than an Aran or a smaller needle than a US 10, and that’s probably pushing it. (Just for grins, I stitched part of the back and shoulders with light worsted on US size 8 needles, and…no. Just don’t. Ugh.)
So…I think it’s worth it to experiment with other yarns and needle sizes as long as you keep in mind that yarns in the mid-to-heavier weights are needed to retain the structure of the jacket.
I hope this helps, and I hope I made some sense here. I’m a bit fuzzy-headed because I’ve stayed up too late!
^^ Omg, longest comment ever. ^^
Hi, Liz!
Thank you for your comment! Your attention to detail in your description of your gauge swatching is very helpful! Thank you for taking the time to write in, we greatly appreciate it! Best wishes on your move and please keep us updated on your progress with the Jacket!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
I also have issues with larger needles and would love to make this, but knitting something on such large needles will kill my hands!
liz n. if you come up with something, please post here. I’ve knit sweaters using bulky yarn on size 9-10 needles without any issues but not sure if this would end up too dense to wear comfortably in this yarn.
liz n, I’m hoping for the same thing, and I’ll be watching for your info. hope you can work it out!
I love the look of this jacket and mostly, I’d like to make it in a lighter weight yarn than bulky.
This is lovely!
You should have a pin-in button on your site so we can save it to our knit/crochet boards 😉
Hi! Thanks a lot for the suggestion!
You can go to Pinterest and download their pin tool that sits on your toolbar, to pin anything you see on any page that you are on. I successfully pinned this to my knit and crochet board and it links perfectly to this article (still 7 wip’s, so you understand….). This pattern is on the to do list for a few months from now. It will be perfect for next fall!
What a beautiful design & written pattern ! THANK you for it. I will try hard to make it to perfection.
Pls., just if you may and can: Does is mean that for the first size of your pattern the final count of stitches (the circumference..) is 90 Sts. ? Thank you in advance & mainly for your work (!!).
(My mother tongue is not English, nor inches are my measurement, even my gauge for kids size I have in mind.. are going to vary; so I am trying hard to do my adjustments. So far I am having ball)
Hi Marketa,
Thanks so much for writing and very sorry for the delayed response! We’re really glad that you’ve been enjoying making the jacket! And yes! The circumference for the smallest size is 90 stitches, or 36 inches. Please don’t hesitate to write with any further questions you may have and thanks again for writing with this one!
Kristy
You can add a Pin it button to your browser, which lets you pin anything from websites that allow pinning. The how-to is in Pinterest’s help section.
Hello, this looks amazing! My mom would love this jacket, but unfortunately is allergic to wool. Could you suggest a substitute yarn? I know — tough to get away from wool in beauties like this.
Hi Holly,
Although we don’t carry a bulky weight yarn that doesn’t contain wool and such a yarn is actually not easy to find, there are a few others you might try:
http://www.universalyarn.com/quality_color.php?quality=338
http://www.loveknitting.com/us/lion-brand-hometown-usa
We hope this helps and thanks for writing!
Kristy
This is just stunning, thank you for sharing the pattern! I’m in south Louisiana… do you think it can be made with Ultra Pima if you used double strands? Would that achieve roughly the same gauge? Thanks!
Hi Adele,
Our best guess would be that even held double, the Ultra Pima may be a bit too thin to match the gauge of the jacket (10 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on size 15 needles), but you could certainly try it! On size 15s, doubled Ultra Pima may just provide a more open fabric (which may still work!). I hope this is somewhat help in answering your question! We appreciate that you wrote in and send good luck!
Kristy
The pattern looks wonderful, simple construction and yet elegant. And a big thank you for the photos of it on a human model; makes such a difference than just on a mannequin.
This is a beautiful pattern. Could this pattern work if knitted in your super soft Merino? i have not knitted with either yarn so I am unfamiliar with how they behave.. thank you Victoria
Hi Victoria,
With a suggested needle size of 13-15, our Super Soft Merino should definitely work for this pattern. It is a lovely yarn, loosely spun, cozy and fluffy. The Lanecardate Feltro is equally beautiful and soft, perhaps a bit sturdier. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any additional questions!
Kristy
I can/t find the yarn that you used. Could another yarn be used.
Hi Lorraine,
The yarn we used for this project can be found on our website here: https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/lanecardate-feltro.html. With any substitutions, you’ll just wanted to try to get as close to the pattern’s gauge as you can (10 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on size 15 needles). We hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Would you be able to publish a smaller size (34) for this pattern? I’m quite petite.
Hi Lisa,
I’m sorry that we don’t currently have this pattern available in a size 34, but it is definitely a request that we will keep in mind for future patterns. Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
How many yards is the yarn you are using?
Hi Karen,
One skein of our Lanecardate Feltro is 98 yards (90 meters).
Best,
Kristy
the simplicity of your design is breathtaking. it is so striking. this is my style…wish I was a better knitter, yes, I would knit it.
Wow! Your photos are amazing…this is the first time i’ve ever been able to see how to pick up a stitch from the row below. Thank you, thank you! You have always been so generous to share your patterns. Can’t wait to stop in at your shop the next time i’m in NYC!
This is an amazing, great pattern! You are very generous to share it, along with all the others you have shared: thank you so much!
This looks lovely. Love the pattern and finished look. I’m trying to man up and go for it but still not so great at reading pattern. Would love to see video tutorial for this one!
Thank you! This is exactly the simple, classic and beautiful jacket pattern I’ve been looking for. Thank you for being so generous!
Too bad it starts in a size 36. What about us XS and XXS people?
Hi Michele,
We’re sorry that the pattern for our jacket doesn’t come in your size, but we will definitely keep your comment in mind for future projects.
Thanks for writing,
Kristy
Love love love this pattern. Might it be published in the future using a somewhat smaller needle and appropriate yarn.
Living in Canada makes ordering yarn from you difficult and yarn this bulky in good colours seems quite rare near me. Would love to knit it on smaller needle and not quite so chunky yarn.
Cass
Hi Cass,
Although we don’t currently have this pattern available in a lighter weight yarn, it is definitely something we will keep in mind for the future. Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Hi
I printed the pattern and on page 10 where it says to cast on, I think I missed something. It has you cast on, then move onto the set up rows, then it jumps to shaping shoulders? How many inches of the back do you work before you shape the shoulders?
Thanks
Hi Audrey,
Working the jacket from the top down, you will work one set-up row and then move directly to shaping the shoulders with short rows. I hope this helps clarify, and please let us know if you have any further questions! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Hello
wonderful jacket but rather difficult for me , because I live in France and if I sew with English patterns; knitting is difficult because of the vocabulary but I hope to succeed. Could you please tell me which stitch you use for making so perfect edges in front of the jacket and around the neck ?
Hi Jacqueline,
Thanks for writing! There are a few English to French knitting terminology translation sheets that might be helpful to you, and they can be found here (http://www.ravelry.com/projects/estherkate/how-to—translate-foreign-patterns—english-to-french). The edging on the jacket is a 2-stitch I-cord bind off, and is described with images just under the “Tips and Techniques” section of the pattern. I hope this helps and we are always here to answer any additional questions you may have. Happy knitting!
Kristy
I love the classic style of this jacket. Is there a way to knit it bottom-up? I’m not confident enough to knit it top down.
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for writing and sincere apologies for the delay in getting back to you! Although we don’t currently have a version of this jacket knit from the bottom up, we will definitely keep your comment in mind for future designs. Thanks again for taking the time to write in!
Kristy
This jacket/wool is stunning! I have picked up the stitches for the sleeves and the instructions say to place a marker and join to work in the round.
How can the sleeve cap Short Rows 2 & 4 say purl?
If the row is joined to work in the round, all rows are Knit. Please clarify this for me as I hope to be able to wear my jacket before it is too warm!
Thanks for sharing so many wonderful designs!
Susan
Hi Susan!
Thanks for writing and very sorry about the delayed response! For a short while when creating your sleeves for the jacket, you will work short rows at the top of the sleeve, back and forth in rows, in order to shape the sleeve cap. Once you’ve completed the cap, you will then join to work the rest of the sleeve in the round and will no longer work in rows. I hope this helps clarify and welcome any additional questions you may have as you finish the jacket!
Kristy
Thank you so much for sharing this- I just purchased some Super Soft Merino is Ballet Pink- cant wait to get started! Is there a way to print out this pattern? I don’t see a link. Thanks again!
Hi Kerry!
Thank you for writing and sorry for the delayed response! The print icon can be found on the righthand side at the top of the pattern, just under the tab “Save to Favorites.” You should see a small printer icon there, and if you click on that, it should allow you to print the pattern. Please let us know if you have any trouble at all or any further questions!
Kristy
What a beautiful channel knitted jacket,I am so looking forward to the long hours of pleasure this project will give me..
Thank you so much for sharing
Fabuloous pattern! I have been looking for this exact pattern for ages. My quandry is that my size is an XS is a commercially knit sweater or a 32. I know there has to be some “room” in the finished garment, especially since it is a jacket, however, your smallest size is a 36. How do I accommodate my size with this pattern? Many thanks for your answer!
Hi Michael,
Thank you for your kind comment and very sorry for the delayed response. Although we don’t have this pattern available in a size 32, your comment is an important reminder for us going forward to include smaller sizes. We very much appreciate your interest in the pattern and thank you for writing in.
Kristy
I am just starting to knit this lovely “chanel’ style jacket. I have long tailed cast on 44 stitches. Short row 2: [purl to marker, sm] twice, purl 4, wrap-t.
Ok, my question is this: after purling to first marker and sm, I purl 4, make one wrap-t, do I then continue on to end of second row making a wrap-t every four purl stitches to last sm? I adore this sweater and want to knit it perfectly so any help you can give me, much appreciated.
Hi Sally!
Thanks for writing and very sorry for the delayed response! On Short Row 2, you will purl to the marker and slip the marker TWICE (it’s important that you do this twice). So you will purl to the first marker, slip the marker and then purl to the second marker and slip that marker. After you have slipped the second marker, you will purl 4, and then wrap and turn. On the following row, Row 3, you will knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row (which will be after the second marker), knit the wrap together with wrapped stitch, k4, and then wrap and turn. Short rows can be confusing, and I hope this helps clarify! Please let us know if you have any further questions! Thanks again for writing in!
Kristy
I like the style of the jacket, but not the size of the yarn and needles. Is there a way to have this work out in dk or sport weight yarn and 6 or 7 needles?
Hi Mary Ann,
Although we currently don’t have this pattern available in a different yarn or needle size, we will certainly keep your comment in mind going forward and may be able to offer the pattern in a DK or sport weight in the future. We appreciate your writing in!
Best,
Kristy
Love the cardigan jacket pattern! I live in HoustonTx and winters are mild and don’t start until Dec. After reading
all the comments , do you think
a merino blend in a double seed stitch pattern to give it stability and using a 6/7 needle (my poor hands) Might work ?.I realize there would be stitch adjustments etc. Thanks for sharing love your web site
Ms Barb
Hi Barb!
Very sorry for the delayed response! In its simplicity, the pattern would definitely work well in a variety of yarns and at different gauges. Since it was written for size 15 needles and bulkier yarn, as you mention, you would have to adjust the pattern in order for it to work at a smaller gauge, and with a alternate stitch pattern. But the pattern would definitely lend itself well to the lighter weight jacket you’re describing! We wish you good luck and thanks for writing!
Kristy
I consider myself an experienced knitter but have never used needles larger than a US10 1/2. I have started this sweater several times only to pull it apart. I have having difficulty with the beginning of my rows. They are very bumpy. Is this because of the size needle and the weight of the yarn? What is the best way to handle the first stitch? Knit/purl it or slip it? Any suggestion would be welcome.
Hi Lisa,
We’re sorry to hear that you’ve been having difficulty with the larger size needles! It can definitely take some adjusting. Often, your stitches may look a bit bumpy as you describe them until you’ve worked a few rows. You may also find that it helps to gently pull the stitches down and into place after you’ve worked them and that this can help to smooth out larger stitches. For this pattern, you will knit the first stitch in each row (instead slipping them). The edge created by knitting each of the stitches (instead of slipping) will allow you to pick up the correct number of stitches for the edging. Please let us know if the above helps or if you have any further questions! Thanks for writing,
Kristy
Hello,
Like everyone else, I love this pattern and I love your Merino Script. The Script hanks are 180 meters while the Feltro are 90 meters. Any help on how many skeins I should buy for the largest size? The pattern calls for 9 skeins- I’m thinking 6-7 would work. Until I play with a swatch, I guess I won’t know how many stitches/inch I will need! Thanks!
Hi Laurel,
Thank you for writing and sorry for the delayed response! Estimating the amount of yarn you will need to make the largest size of this Jacket, (using a different yarn and gauge) requires a bit guesswork. But a best estimate would be about 7 skeins to be on the safe side. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Hello,
I’m French and i’d really like to knit it. Unfortunetly I don’t understand everything. The size’s conversion and everything is quite hard. Any possibilities to translate it in french.
Thank you
Hi Noémie,
Thank you for your interest in this pattern! Unfortunately we don’t currently have a version of this pattern in French. There are several links that might be helpful to you though. The first helps convert inches to centimeters and might be useful in understanding the schematic and measurements. The second is a link to a list of knitting terms translated from English to French.
http://www.inches-to-cm.com
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/estherkate/how-to—translate-foreign-patterns—english-to-french
Best of luck and thanks for writing in,
Kristy
Thank you sooooooo much for your beautiful pattern. You have explained everything in great detail. I just finished reading and reviewing your pattern. I am going to start your Classic Knit Jacket. I am a bit anxious but I know if I have a question you will be there to answer it. Again, thank you. : )
Tess
Thanks so much, Tess! Good luck and please do let us know if you have any questions along the way!
Kristy
Hello I have just discovered your amazing jacket pattern and hope you are still around to answer questions. It would be really helpful with the sizings if you can say what size the model in the photograph is. Thank you for such a great design.
Hi Jean,
Thanks for the kind comment! The sweater on the model is mentioned in the size section. The model is wearing size 42 1/2. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hello, I’d like to make this sweater in Purl Soho Super Soft Merino, size S or M, how many skeins would you recommend?
Thanks.
Hi Quynh,
Thanks for writing in! To substitute Super Soft for Feltro, you will need 7,8,8,9,10,11 skeins depending on the size that you are hoping to knit!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi Cassy,
Thanks for your reply. And can you remind me how the size list works- is it XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL?
Thanks,
Quynh
Hi Quynh,
Thanks for writing in! Our sizes are based on finished chest size. The sizes are 36 (39 ¼, 42 ½, 45 ½, 48 ¾, 52) inches. These are not based on conventional xs-xl sizes. We hope by providing the finished chest measurements, you will see a better fit that is more accurate to your true measurements! This sweater is designed to be worn with a 4- to 6-inch ease around the chest. So you should measure your chest and add 4-6 inches and choose the closest size!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Dear Cassy, thanks for your very comprehensive answer.
piacerebbe avere le istruzioni in italiano.
Hi Attilia,
Thanks for writing in! At the moment, our patterns are only available in English. We very much appreciate you writing in and best of luck!
Best,
Cassy
Hi,
This jacket is beautiful, thank you for sharing this pattern with us.
I’m trying to learn about fit in knitting and in sewing and I have a question about the shoulders on this pattern. Usually, I aim to have the shoulder seam fall at the “head” of the shoulder, where the pivot point of my shoulder is. I see that in this pattern, the shoulder seam falls quite far off the shoulder. I’m interested to hear why you designed it that way – is there a utilitarian reason or were you trying to achieve a bit of a drop-shoulder look?
Thank you!
-Olivia
Hi Olivia,
Thanks for the kind words! I think that the jacket was intentionally designed to have a slight drop shoulder. It’s meant to fit on the roomy side, so this is also why it drops off a bit. If you’d like, you can do two or three more decreases on the fronts and back in order to achieve a more set-in look. Let me know how it goes!
Best of luck,
Adam
Hello,
I am wondering if the shorter circular needles are needed or I can complete this project with the longer circular needle and double pointed needles?
Thanks
Hi Quynh,
Thanks for the question! You could use just the DPNs instead of the 16 inch needle if you would like. We do think that picking up the sleeve stitches and knitting the sleeve cap is a little easier with the 16 inch needle. However, you certainly can accomplish the same look with the DPNs alone.
Best,
Cassy
Can’t wear Angora (makes me itchlike crazy). Can you recommend another wool? Thanks.
Hi Annette,
Great question! If you would like to use an alternate yarn, I would suggest our Super Soft Merino. It knits up at a similar gauge to the Feltro. To substitute Super Soft for Feltro, you will need 7,8,8,9,10,11 skeins depending on the size that you are hoping to knit!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello,
I’m stuck on Knit Edging: how to pick up the indicated stitches (from right front, neck and left front) having already so many stiches from the bottom edge (size 48 3/4)? Do I have to place bottom stiches on a stich holder before starting picking up right front stitches?
Hi Silvia,
Thanks for writing in! You will be picking up all of the stitches on one needle. I realize that this can get kind of crowded so feel free to use multiple needles and knit across them as if they are one. While a bit challenging at first, this does give a really lovely finished edge that just makes this elegant jacket!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you for this lovely pattern! I just finished it, perfect!
Love the look of this sweater and am making it using your suggested yarn in soft red. I am trying to figure out the short rows for the shoulder shaping. I have taken it out about 6 or 7 times. The area where I am doing the shaping just never looks right….kind of separated rows coming out at an angle with spaces between. I’ve never had this problem with short rows before and am wondering if it is the thick yarn causing the look or is there a specific technique you used to get it to look smoother. Maybe blocking will solve the problem? I’d like to send you a picture!
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for writing us. This seems like a problem I’d have to see rather than guess how to solve it. Please send your photo to [email protected] and one of us will be happy to get back to you asap. Thanks!
-Adam
I am just learn how to knit; is possible for me to make this?
How many yarn we need to make this jacket?
Thanks a lot
Lily
Indonesia
Hi Lily,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend reading the whole of the pattern and seeing if you are comfortable with all of the techniques that we use to achieve this lovely jacket. I would say that the short rows would probably be the trickiest for new knitters but if you have an adventurous spirit, you can achieve it.
For this project, you will need between 6 and 9 skeins of our Feltro. The number will depend on the size that you choose. All of the materials needed can be found above in the Materials section!
Best,
Cassy
Hello, I don’t understand the directions on the shoulder shaping. “Short Row 3. …. “knit wrap stitch together with wrapped stitch…” Am I to have two stitches on the needle, or just the knit stitch with the wrap below it? Thanks.
Hi Liz,
Thanks for writing in! When you are coming back across where you have wrapped and turned, it is time to knit wrap stitch together with wrapped stitch. To do this, you will pick up the wrap with the right needle from front to back and then insert the right needle into the stitch that is wrapped and knit the wrap and the stitch together. For a photo tutorial, you can check out of short row tutorial page here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/short-rows/
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
My first time to use “the wrap” , I’ve tried but have not been successful. I’m confused. .
Short row1. Right side. [knit to marker, (slip marker, K3, wrap-t. ? So do I finish the row?
Same for the remaining rows?
Does the shoulder area become a crescent shape?
The pattern is beautiful and practical. Sure hope to complete.
Hi Eyvonne,
Thanks for reaching out! When working short rows you are not working over the entire row, just a portion of it! So for Short Row 1 after you wrap the stitch you will turn your work and move directly to the next row working back across the row, not working it to the end. I recommend checking out our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial, it will show you exactly how this technique is worked!
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
What weight yarn are you using? I have worsted weight, will that work?
Hi Connie,
Thank you for writing us! We knit this up in a chunky weight, so a worsted weight will not work unless you want the jacket much smaller.
-Adam
Is there a pattern for this sweater for a dk weight yarn? Or do you have any suggestions on how to alter the pattern for a dk weight? Would love to hear back from you!
Thanks, Cindy
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, changing this pattern from super bulky to DK would require extensive pattern alteration which we are unable to do in the comments. You may be able to obtain the same gauge by holding your DK weight yarn double, but you will need to knit a gauge swatch to find out. I will be sure to pass your request along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Beautiful pattern, thank you Purl Soho. When you list bust dimensions you are listing the actual size of the garment, with no ease. Correct? So 36″ chest is 36″ across the chest, not 40″? I’m just want to understand how these statements affect each other: “This garment is designed with 4” ease “. Thank you!!
Hi Sarah,
Great question! The size that we have listed is the finished measurement. So if your bust measurement is 36, you will add 4 inches and choose the closest size. Here that would be the 39 1/4″.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
i cannot understand how this stockinette stitch does not curl at the edges.
could you please explain this to me?
thank you in advance
maria prinianaki
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in! For this lovely jacket, we pick up all around the edges of the jacket and knit an i cord. The i cord edging prevents the edges of the stockinette jacket from rolling!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, I am just finishing this sweater. I love the pattern, and enjoyed learning some new techniques. I did use a worsted weight wool/acrylic blend so maybe that contributes-but the I-cord bind off is not preventing curling. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for reaching out! I highly recommend blocking your finished jacket, that can help a lot with curling! I suggest checking out our Blocking tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello, is your gauge listed 10st by 14 row = 4″ before or after blocking? Thanks!
Hi Vivki,
Thanks for writing in! The gauge listed here is pre-blocking. To be honest, given the felted nature of this yarn, we have found that blocking does not significantly impact the gauge of this lovely yarn!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am knitting the Classic Knit jacket. Love the pattern. When it says “measured at side of armhole,” does this mean to measure along edge or from cast on edge perpendicular to needles, as is normally done? This is a bit confusing. Would appreciate an answer, so I can move forward. Thanks so much!
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for the question! “Measured at side of armhole” means that you’ll measure from the first stitch on your needle down to the cast on edge, measuring along the edge of the fabric. I hope this makes sense!
-Adam
I love this pattern and am wondering how many yds/meters of yarn are in this garment when knitted up as I already have some chunky and would like to know if I have enough. Is it chunky or super chunky? Many thanks.
Mary
Hi Mary,
This is a lovely pattern. The jacket in the pattern used 686 yards, it is a women’s size 42 1/2 it took 7 skiens of the Feltro which has 98 yards in it. The yardage will very depending on the size you will be doing. The Feltro yarn is considered to be super bulky.
Have a lovely day,
Melissa
This is just a beautiful pattern and I — a beginner — look forward to becoming good enough to knit this. (I’ll add that your wonderful tutorials are advancing my skill faster than anything else could — a thousand thanks for them!) As eagerly as I await having the jacket in a fall/winter weight, my real problem is finding stylish, attractive garments for work in the summer heat and humidity. This would fit the bill, if you could recommend an appropriate yarn. Do you have anything light and silky enough, yet bulky enough for US size 15 needles? I’m guessing your beautiful linen yarn would not be quite chunky enough to work? Thank you for everything you all are doing at this site!
Hi Sue,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! Unfortunately, we do not have an alternative yarn that would be bulky enough for the gauge and has the structure of Feltro while being cool enough for summer. You could try doubling Blue Sky Worsted Cotton to see if you could get gauge. However, if you could get gauge, the resulting garment would be quite heavy indeed.
Best,
Cassy
Looked at the picture, half-read the ‘how-to’, however, could you give the European sizes? Specifically needles, yarn, etc. I’ve no idea how to adjust it to my needles and available yarns.
It’s a lovely jacket for chill summer evenings (like right now).
Hello marjolein,
Thanks for writing in! We used size 10mm(US15) needles for this project with a gauge of 2.5 stitches per inch. The yarn we used is super bulky, super chunky 14ply. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions.
-Marilla
Hi please could you advise me of the following, I live in South Africa so what mm needle I would use and what weight wool? Also how many balls do I get if they are 50 gram balls or 100 gram balls. You mention super chunky so will a chunky not suffice. Thank you, this is really a beautiful pattern and hope I come right with it.
Hi Pam,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! For this lovely jacket we used US 15 (10 mm) needles. Feltro comes in at roughly a bulky or super bulky weight (depending on the scale used). You will be looking for a yarn that comes in at roughly 2.5 stitches per inch. The number of balls needed will depend on the yardage that each ball contains rather than the physical weight of the ball. The yardage that you will need will be 588 (686, 686, 784, 882, 882) yards.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
I am starting the shape sleeve cap. You show Short Row 1, then Short Row 2, then Short row 3, then Short row 4. I understand all that. The next instruction is to repeat Rows 3 and 4 7(8, 9, 10, 10, 10, 11) more times. How can knit to a wrapped stitch on the previous row when you haven’t wrapped a stitch in the previous row. I’m lost. What am I missing? HELP.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help. In the sleeve cap, you will repeat short rows 3 and 4 7(8, 9, 10, 10, 10, 11) more times. Each of these short rows ends with a wrap and turn so the next row will have a wrapped stitch the row below.
I hope that this clears things up and let us know if you have any further questions!
Cassy
Has anyone converted this pattern using a worsted weight yarn? If so is it available?
Hi Paula,’
Thanks for writing in! This lovely jacket is only available in the gauge listed above. You may be able to hold two strands of worsted weight together but you would certainly need to knit a gauge swatch it see if this would work in a pleasant fabric.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you for your response. Didn’t see it until after I sent the second request. No response necessary.
Has anyone worked this in a worsted weight yarn? I would love to have the pattern if it is redone. Love the sweater and have been searching for something like it with a thinner yarn and have had not luck.
Thanks for your response.
Hi, I would love to make this for myself. What modifications, if any, to make it for a man? I do not like the usually square shaped men’s cardigans; something fitted more like a suit jacket is more appealing. Would this work as is? Thank you so much.
All the best,
Kieran
Hello Kieran,
Thank you for reaching out! I think this is a great idea. You shouldn’t need to make any modifications as there isn’t any shaping specific to the female form in this pattern. Plus, because it is knit top down you can try it on as you knit it which makes figuring out if you would like to make it longer or shorter quite simple. I say go for it!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello, I made the seafaring scarf with this yarn and absolutely love it. I am now planing on ordering some more so that I can make this jacket! I am wondering how much this yarn pills? The scarf is holding up beautifully but obviously encounters less wear and friction than a jacket would. Your feedback would be greatly appreciate 🙂
Thanks!
Hello Pastille,
Thank you for writing in! I’m happy to hear the seafaring scarf was a success. Because this yarn is felted it has minimal pilling making it well suited to be used for a jacket. I saw go for it!
I hope this helps and Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello. Just started this today. I’m a little confused on the short rows. For row 1, do I complete the entire instruction to knit to the marker, slip the marker, then knit 4 and Wrpt.. This would be followed by row 2. Followed by row 1 and row 2 again? I don’t understand the instruction twice. I am assuming “twice” means repeat the pair of short rows. Am I correct? Thanks
HI Faye,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! For row 1, you will knit to the marker, sm, knit to marker sm, k3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t. The “twice” refers to repeating the the instructions contained within the parenthesis. So short row 1 will end with a wrap and turn, placing the the wrong side facing you to begin short row 2. Each short row will be worked once!
I hope that this clears things up for you!
Best,
Cassy
Crisis averted. Talked to someone way smarter than me and I’ve been set straight. No need to reply to this comment or my duplicate posting below.
Thank you for allowing entertaining my knitting and technology dysfunctions out loud
Knit on.
F
Hi, an email drom a klitterig in the Netherlands I really like your patterns therefore i bought the book cocoknite workshop because i really like the sweater ontheffing cover of the book. Unfornutly thuis patron is nog decribed in the book. Can you give me de details of thuis sweater and tell me which yarn And needles were used. I ma now making the jacket , i tried to write the patron in the worksheet journal, but was not able to do so. Do you have an Example of the jacketpatron in a journal worksheet? Looking forward hearing from you. Kind regards, Marie-Jose
Hi Marie-Jose,
Thanks for reaching out! We love Julie Weisenberger as well! I will say that while we sell her lovely book, the patterns contained are Julie’s patterns and not Purl Soho patterns. The cover sweater is Emma version B for neck and body, but the sleeves from Emma version A. The sweater was knit with A Verb for Keeping Warm’s Big Sky using US 11 needles.
It may be helpful to reach out to Julie if you have further questions about using the book and workbook! She can be reached at [email protected].
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
First of all, thank you for the pattern. Haven’t found anything else like it.
I currently have two different fluffy wool yarns myself, that I consider for this project, but the first one is 14 ply where 11 stitches and 15 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch and works with US 11 needles.
The second yarn is bulkier where 8 stitches and 10 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch and works with US 17 needles.
Since the yarn used in the recipe is in between I don’t know which one to use. Can I for example use the smaller yarn and then knit a larger size jacket?
Hi Melina,
You can definitely use the smaller yarn and knit a bigger size but the proportions will be a bit off since you aren’t matching the gauge of the pattern. I would recommend making a gauge swatch using the bigger yarn and sizing down your needles.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Hi,
I just finished the jacket and haven’t blocked it yet but I noticed my knitting edges at the front turn in more than shown in the photo. In the photo it looks like all of the icord bind off shows on the outside but on my one it only shows a thin strip. Would blocking solve this?
Hi Lucy,
Thanks for writing in! Blocking should help the issue that you are having quite a bit. Blocking allows your stitches to relax and allows you to manipulate your garment into the shape that you would like thus curtailing turning of fabric and light rolling!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
When you’re knitting the left side and right sides, how do you keep track of what side you’re knitting. Like if you’ve knit the right side on the wrong side and let’s say you need to answer the phone, how do you remember which side you’re on because it could be either.
Hi Cindy,
This is an excellent question! The easiest way to know whether you were working on the right side or the wrong side it to see where the yarn is coming from. You working yarn will always be coming from the right. So if you put down your work and come back to it, if the yarn is coming from the left side, you will want to turn your work until you see the working yarn coming from the right side and continue working on the stitches from the left needle to the right needle.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi – thanks for the lovely pattern – I’m making it in a thick and thin bulky yarn and so far, very happy with the combo of textures. My question regards the inv. inc. at the end of the row – at 3 stitches before the end, make an increase, then knit two. What happens to the third stitch? Should it mirror the beginning of the row, two stitches in? Thanks very much for clarifying.
Hello Amy,
Thank you for reaching out! The invisible increase involves knitting a stitch as well as an increase so after you do the invisible increase you will only have two stitches left to knit.
I hope this clears things up and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Help! This sweater has been turning out beautifully…until I’ve gotten to the sleeve caps and I’ve had to pull them out repeatedly. It seems to be growing more than it should with the wrap turns leaving me with more stitches on my needles when it’s time to join in the round than I should have and a misshapen sleeve cap. How do I achieve the wrap turns without increasing stitches?
Hi Jennie,
Thanks for reaching out! While working this short row section, you should always have the same number of stitches on your needle despite the short rows. I would suggest reviewing our Short Row Tutorial to see if you are working the wrap and turns or picking them up correctly!
Best,
Julianna
I dont see where it says how much yarn is needed to make this lovely sweater.
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! This lovely sweater uses 6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9) skeins of Purl Soho’s Lanecardate Feltro! We note this as well as the needles and other notions that you will need in the Materials section above! This will translate to roughly 588 (686, 686, 784, 882, 882) yards for each size!
Best,
Cassy
Hi,
thank you for this beautiful pattern and the helpful tutorial videos. I already finished my jacket. The edges are curling up, so I worked an extra crochet-border all around on top of the i-cord border, little waves/arcs, it looks very nice. I´m very happy.
Happy Holidays
Sabine
I love this pattern’s minimalist and elegant style and started to make one. I am using an eyelash yarn and a matching wool yarn combination. I altered the length to be shorter to a Chanel style jacket length, and loving it (I like the original style’s length, too)!
My only question is what type of button system to put at the top front corners. Maybe add a crochet chain to make a loop buttonhole? Any advice would be appreciated.
Hello Mitchan,
Thanks for reaching out, what a beautiful project you are planning! Crocheted chain at the top corner sounds like a great idea, I think that system will fit best with a Chanel style jacket .
Let us know how it goes and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there. I’m knitting this and am trying to pick up the stitches all around in order to begin the icord bind off. Can you really fit all the stitches onto the needle??? My stitches barely fit on as it is I can’t imagine picking up more before starting the I cord. Help!
Hello Marissa,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, your stitches will fit on you 32″ needles. If you are feeling nervous you could use a longer cord, or you could put a stitch stopper on your just for the picking up process.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
This was my question, too! So glad to see someone else asked, I feel like I can plow ahead now! Thanks for the question and the answer.
Glad to see this question and corresponding answer! I’ve been hesitating at this step not knowing how to pick up the required stitches! Didn’t know if the sweater bottom was transferred onto a holder while I picked up the edge. Your tutorial on picking up stitches vertically helped immensely, and this question/answer will get me back on track! Thanks!
Hi! I love the look of this sweater — I’d wear it for 25 years, I bet. I’d prefer to make it in cotton, though – or a blend. I will appreciate suggestions! Thanks! Suzy
Hi Suzy,
Thank you so much for the kind words! I would suggest using Blue Sky Worsted Cotton held double for this jacket. You will have to knit a gauge swatch, but it should be fairly close to the correct weight! You will need 8 (10, 10, 11, 12, 12) skeins of Worsted Cotton for each size.
Happy knitting, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I fell in love with this jacket. I am however ready to give up on it. When I am picking up at the shoulders, I cannot do it so that it appears seamless. There is a definite difference in the joining row. This has been a deal breaker for me sadly.
Hi Patty,
I am so sorry to hear that you aren’t happy with how the shoulders are turning out! It is unavoidable to have some sort of visible seam line when picking up stitches, but it should be relatively unobtrusive. I would suggest checking our Picking Up Stitches tutorial, especially the video for picking up along a horizontal edge, to see if that helps improve the appearance of your shoulder seam.
Best,
Julianna
When starting the sleeve, is the first short row done immediately after the stitches are picked up around armhole or is one complete round knitted first? Thank you for the pattern, by the way. It is beautiful. I am learning a whole new way of constructing cardigans/jackets whilst knitting this. Such a joy!
Hello R.S.
Thank you for reaching out. I’m happy to hear you are enjoying this pattern – it is one of my favorites! After picking up your stitches for your sleeve you jump right into your short rows.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Thank you.
I have not received this pattern can u email it again thank you first email was spelling mistake sorry
Hello May,
Thank you for reaching out!
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Lanecardate Feltro is no longer available. Can you suggest a substitute yarn to knit the Classic Knit Jacket.
thank you
valerie truitt
Hi Valerie,
Great question! I would recommend using an aran weight yarn, such as Worsted Twist or Manos del Uruguay Maxima, held double to match the gauge of Feltro. Don’t forget you will need to order twice as much yardage when holding your yarn double!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thanks Julianna for your quick response. Appreciate it.
valerie
New to knitting, where in the pattern are the amounts of stitches to cast on?
Hello Shirley,
Thanks for reaching out! Your cast on amount for this particular pattern will be at the very beginning under “BEGIN” and will read “Use a long-tail cast on to cast 36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46) stitches onto the 32-inch circular needles. Do not join for working in the round”.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have inherited a lot of Patons Shetland-Style Chunky yarn. https://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/patons-north-america-beehive-shetland-chunky
I thought I’d change from knitting shawls and blankets to a sweater for me.
Might this yarn be substituted for the original yarn?
Thank you.
Hi Jessica-Jean,
Thanks for reaching out! It looks like your yarn might be a little thinner than Lanecardate Feltro, but the best way to find out if it will work is to knit a gauge swatch! If you aren’t able to match our gauge with your yarn held single, I would also try using it held double to see if that is closer to the correct stitches per inch.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi,
Thank you for the pattern. I love the look of this jacket, it’s so simple and classy. I had a problem with the sleeve caps, and ripped them out twice as they were full of holes, and the wool was stretching beyond recognition in places. I’m now knitting them separately and will sew them in. I cast on with 12mm needles and continued with the pattern using 9mm needles. This looks much better than my previous attempts. Hope it works out once I’m finished.
Jennifer
I would love to try this pattern with Woolfolk’s Flette, which I know you don’t carry. I was wondering if you would advise doubling it with another DK yarn or an Aran yarn? I know Woolfolk makes both in merino.
Hello Cynthia,
Thank you for reaching out! I would reccomend adding an aran weight yarn to try and get close to gauge. If you have any aran weight scrap yarn I would maybe do a test swatch to see how close it gets you to gauge and go from there.
Good luck and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi
If I want to use mulberry merino or cashmere bloom would it take three strands, 2? 4? I will make a gauge swatch but hoped you had a feel for it
Thanks!!
Jane
Hi Jane,
Thanks for writing in! Although, you would have to knit a gauge swatch to be sure, I think it would take 4 strands of Mulberry Merino and 3 or 4 strands of Cashmere Merino Bloom to approximate the super bulky gauge of this pattern. Cashmere Merino Bloom is a bit thicker than Mulberry Merino so you might be able to get away with only three strands, but again, knitting a swatch is the best way to find out.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how your jacket turns out!
Julianna
RE: CLASSIC KNIT JACKET / FINISHING TECHNIQUE
I would like to begin the applied I-Cord at the Center Neck edge, working to the right along the Right Front Neck and Right Front to the bottom body, where I would begin I- Cord cast off to the lower Left Front, continuing with applied I-Cord up the Left Front and Left Front Neck, then around the Neck edge to the center beginning point where I would make a join. Is this a “doable” finishing in your opinion.
The other option I am considering is a Crab Stitch edging beginning and ending at the center Back Neck. What are your thoughts and professional opinion?
Thank you.
Hi Eunice,
Thanks for writing in! I think an Attached I-Cord is a great alternative to the I-Cord cast off we used! Our tutorial also has instructions for beginning with a provisional cast on so you can graft the two ends of the applied i-cord together for a seamless finish. A Crab Stitch also provides a nice finishing touch, but I usually find it to be a bit more irregular or textured than an i-cord. I would recommend trying out both edgings on a swatch so you can see which one you prefer!
Best,
Julianna
This is a fast and lovely project! Very kanso! I bought the materials last Christmas and midway through knitting I realize, wouldn’t it be nice to make another one in a different color? But you don’t have Feltro anymore! Any suggestions on another fiber that would work?
Hi Martha,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! Although Feltro has been discontinued, our new Big Good Wool held double should be a very close match for the gauge of this jacket. You will need 5 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7) skeins of Big Good Wool for each size.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I love this pattern but I am allergic to wool. Do you have any suggestions on what I can use instead to make it.
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for reaching out! Although you will have to knit a gauge swatch to make sure it will be the right weight, I think holding three strands of Blue Sky Organic Cotton together should turn out to roughly the same weight as Feltro. This does mean you will have to triple the yardage, so you will need 11 (13, 13, 15, 17, 17) skeins.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am looking at making this jacket – since the Lanecardate Feltro is not available, I can’t tell how much of an alternate chunky yarn I would need for this project. Can you give me an idea of the yardage I would need and/or suggestions as to other similar yarn you might carry?
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for writing in! The total yardage for each size is 588 (686, 686, 784, 882, 882) yards. Our new Big Good Wool held double should be a very close match for the gauge of this jacket. You will need 5 (6, 6, 6, 7, 7) skeins of Big Good Wool for each size.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi, would a super chunky yarn like Debbie Bliss Roma (70% wool and 30% alpaca, 3.5 oz = ca. 88 yards) be problematic for this jacket because it was not felted? Thanks, Dagmar
Hi Dagmar,
Thanks for reaching out! As long as you are able to get the correct gauge with your yarn, you should be able to use it for this jacket! The slightly fulled or felted nature of Feltro resulted in a sturdier yarn, but doesn’t affect whether another yarn can knit up to the same gauge.
Best,
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
Thanks so much for the response!
Sincerely,
Dagmar
Bonjour,
Je suis très ennuyée. J’aime beaucoup de modèle mais je ne sais comment le réaliser car les mesures sont en pouces (en France on utilise le cm) et j’ai du mal avec les explications qui ne correspondent pas aux termes utilisés en France. Comment puis-je résoudre tout cela ? avec tous mes remerciements.
Hi Nelly,
Thank you so much for writing in and for the interest in our patterns! We do not currently have the resources to translate our patterns, but hopefully at some point in the future this will be more of a possibility. In the mean time I will certainly pass along your suggestion!
Best,
Julianna
Hello, I am interested to make this sweater-it looks so pretty! I currently have a lot of Cascade Yarn’s Magnum. Can I use this yarn to make this sweater? Thanks.
Hi Charisma,
Thanks for asking about this! Magnum knits up to approximately 2 stitches per inch, while our Classic Knit Jacket calls for a gauge of 2.5 stitches per inch, and I’m not sure that you’d want to try to get that gauge with a super bulky yarn – it could be too stiff. I would suggest taking a look at our Gentle Cardigan pattern, which was designed for Purl Soho’s Gentle Giant. You can find the Gentle Cardigan pattern here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2020/01/13/brandi-cheyenne-harper-for-purl-soho-gentle-cardigan/ While not an exact match for gauge, I believe that this would get you a bit closer in gauge and texture, and is another simple, open cardigan.
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Thanks Cassandra! this is helpful.
Hi Purl Soho, the pattern looks great and so far it’s going well but I am confused and not sure if I’ve got this right at the i-cord bind off stage.
I have knit to the bottom of the jacket. After finishing the last knit-row, I followed the instructions to pick up the stitches going all the way round from bottom right up to the neck and down to the bottom left. Was I right to pick these stitches up onto my same working needles and the same continued yarn? Now I see it says “With right side facing and working across the bottom body stitches first, bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off”. Does that mean I continue in a loop? Won’t this connect up the bottom left picked-up stiches to the end of the row finished at the bottom of the jacket and close up the jacket?
Thanks! Cat
Hi Cat,
Thank you for writing in with this question! It sounds like you did everything just right! Because you picked up stitches with your active yarn all around the Right Front, Neck, and Left Front, your active yarn should now be located at the bottom of your Left Front in the perfect position to work the 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off. You will be working this bind off around the entire edge of the jacket beginning at the bottom Left Front, moving around the Bottom Back, Bottom Right Front, and then up through all the stitches you picked up in Row 4, so there won’t be any place where the left and right sides are joined. I hope this makes sense and is helpful!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
I would love to try to make this jacket in garter stitch. Do you think the pattern would work if I ignored all purling in the pattern and just used knit wherever it appears? thanks in advance for your advice.
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, I would recommend substituting garter stitch in this pattern. Although the stitch gauge of stockinette and garter are often similar, the row gauge is drastically different, which would affect the size and fit of the sleeve openings and neckline as well as the edging around the front opening of the jacket. Unfortunately, we don’t have any similar patterns in garter stitch – I’m so sorry about that! You should be able to find several similar sweaters that are designed for garter stitch either on Ravelry or by searching for “garter stitch knit jacket pattern” in your preferred search engine.
Best,
Julianna
I love this jacket, but am stuck at the point where I need to shape the shoulders. How do I knit the right and left fronts at the same time with separate balls of yarn? Thank you!
Hi Chris,
Thanks for writing in! To get started on this section, you will first pick up the Right Front stitches using one ball of yarn, then, using a second ball of yarn, pick up the Left Front Stitches. You work should look like the picture under the “Pick Up Shoulders” heading once you have done this correctly! It might be helpful to place a marker in the middle of the Right Front stitches before moving on just so you have a reminder of which shoulder is which. For the next few rows, you will always knit each shoulder using the attached ball of yarn; so, for instance, in the Set-Up Row, you will first purl across the Left Front stitches using the attached ball of yarn, then drop that yarn, slide the Right Shoulder stitches up onto the needle, and then purl across the Right Shoulder stitches using the ball of yarn that is attached on that side. As you proceed through the next section, just make sure you are paying attention to which ball of yarn is attached to your current set of stitches, and everything should work out correctly!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Is this knit with a bulky yarn or a super bulky yarn?
Hi Paolina,
Thanks for writing in! We used a super bulky yarn for this jacket, but the super bulky category includes a fairly wide range of yarn thicknesses. When considering alternate yarns, I would suggest taking a look at the recommended needle size and gauge on the yarn label to make sure it is close to 10 stitches and 14 rows to 4 inches on a US 15 needle.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have a question about the I-cord bind off.
After picking up all the stitches from the bottom corner of the right front all the way around to the bottom of the left front, where it says to bind off across the bottom body stitches…
Here’s my question…. I ended the pick up stitches at the left front bottom and the working yarn was left at the bottom of the right front where the pick up stitches began. Do I cut the working yarn off and start the bind off across the bottom with a new yarn?
Thanks to anyone who can help with this!
Pati
Hi Pati,
Thanks for reaching out! I believe that you shouldn’t cut the tail, but you should use the working yarn for the bind off!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m confused… So how do I get the working yarn from the lower right corner to the left corner to start the bind off?
Hi Pati,
Thanks for writing in again! It sounds like you need to work an additional row to get the yarn on the correct side to begin the bind off!
I hope this helps, but if you continue to have problems you can send us a photo of your work to [email protected] and we can troubleshoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
Thank you so much Gianna!
I’m curious,
Just before the bind off where the pattern says to end with a right side row… did I read it wrong? I knitted the right side row and ended up with the working yarn at the bottom of the right front. Should it say to end with the wrong side row so the working yarn is at the bottom of the left side?
Differentiating between the “right front” and the “right side” has me muddled up a bit!!
No matter what, I’m rolling again and really appreciate your help! Have a wonderful weekend!
Pati
Hi Pati,
Thanks for writing in again! I know the phrasing can be a bit confusing… So for example in the last row of the BODY section when we say “With right side facing and working across the bottom body stitches first, bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off” We mean the right side of the fabric facing you, not the right side of the work!
Have fun finishing this jacket, happy knitting!
Gianna
I really like this style of jacket…. do the measurements work if being made for a man?
Hi Raymond,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a relatively unisex style so the measurements should work to accommodate a man!
All the best,
Gianna
Can you recommend a yarn for this pattern for those who are unable to wear wool?
Hi Beth,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have a non wool option at this same weight, however you could use something like BLUE SKY FIBERS Worsted Cotton and hold it double to achieve a similar gauge! I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning the pattern to insure it is consistent or if it will need any adjustments!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I had a bunch of Lion Brand Hometown USA super bulky, 100% acrylic. The gauge is nearly identical and so far it is working up great ! Best of luck !
Greetings to ALL.
I see such beauty in the Classic Jacket and the vest as well. This is my look. Letting the style and the tarn speak for themselves. Taking a lesson from the earth itself. I am sad I cannot purchase your yarn as my body rejects wool. Period. Isn’t it funny, a prime natural fiber and my beliefs, cannot be in sync. Sadly too is with any other natural fiber the essence is lost. I will never be in New York but if it was possible it would be there I would come first. I applaud you with keeping to your ethics so strongly. That’s all I wanted to say. So much continued well being for everyone there. Be well, stay well and always carry treats for the 4 legged ones, horses too, that make life so much happier.
Would it be possible to make this in a worsted weight yarn? I know the needle size (probably a US 6) would change as would the number of stitches cast on, etc., but would it be possible?
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out! If you are up for a bit of a challenge you can certainly knit this Jacket in a worsted weight! It would take a bit of re-gauging so I suggest working a gauge swatch with the worsted yarn you wish to work with on an appropriate needles size (typically we suggest a US 6-8) and the you can calculate from there based on your stitch per inch! I recommend checking out our All About Gauge tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use!
Warmly,
Gianna
Bonjour,
Avez-vous les explications en Français ?
Cordialement,
Claire GAILLARD
Hi Claire,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, our patterns are only available in english. Thank you for much for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’d like to try knitting this as a double (two-faced)knit as a heavier jacket. Am having trouble figuring out how to convert the number of stitches needed for this– in the double-knit baby blanket pattern it talks about double the number of stitches for the width you want (at appropriate gauge). Would that be the right thing to do?
Hi Martha,
Thanks for reaching out! That is such a fun idea, and a really great question! It may take a bit of playing around since the jacket has more dimension than a flat blanket but I think following the basics of the Double Knit Blanket should work out fine! The body pieces should be pretty straight forward, the only spot that may be a bit tricky is the sleeves since they are worked in the round. I would work a swatch double knitting in the round to see how the technique would work!
I hope this helps and please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi
I’m confused by the short row instructions. Specifically, what is meant by “twice”, I knit 4 do the wrap and then turn. Do I put back to the beginning and then knit again the four wrap and turn and purl back again?
Hi JW,
Thanks for reaching out! I presume that you are at the shape shoulder section?
In that case after the set-up row you should have placed 2 markers, so for example with row 1 you will Knit to marker, sm (slip marker) twice; meaning you knit to the first marker, slip the marker to the other needle, then continue knitting to the 2nd marker, and slip that marker to the other needle. You will then knit an addition 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) stitches after slipping the maker, then wrap the stitch and turn the work! You will then follow the same process for row 2. After you wrap and turn in row 1 you will move directly to row 2 purling to the marker, slip the marker to the other needle, then continue purling to the next marker, and slip that marker to the other needle and purl and additional 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) stitches, wrp-t.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this pattern and would like to use the recommended yarn (Lanecardate Feltro) but it does not seem to be available. Is there any information you can give me on it? Do you have a substitute if it is not available?
Hi Marilyn,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately Lanecardate Feltro has been discontinued and is no longer available. In it’s place I would recommend using our newest yarn, Woolly Wool! I also always recommend working a gauge swatch when using a different yarn than suggested in the pattern prior to beginning to insure you are consistent!
I hope this helps and pease let me know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love your patterns and your tutorials! My question is, could you felt this jacket??? Thanks!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I haven’t heard of anyone felting this jacket but I think you certainly could!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, I love this jacket. I have a question regarding picking up the cast-on stitches. When I do this, I’m basically losing ‘half’ a stitch at each end because the picked up stitch is created in between two stitches going in opposite orientation. So in order to have the same number of stitches, I need to ‘create’ one, either at the beginning or at the end of the cast-on row. Any recommendations?
Thanks!
Hi Ale,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d recommend you take a look at our tutorial on Picking Up Stitches and watch the video Along A Horizontal Edge. This should help clarify how to pick up each stitch so that you’re not having to create a new one.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
I love this jacket and have knit two of them! Now I’d like to try a different look with a hot pink cotton yarn, knitting the Icord trim in black. My yarn is Drops Safran yarn group A. Would it be possible to adjust the pattern to use this vastly different yarn?
Hi Sue,
Thanks for writing in! I think this jacket would look awesome in a hot pink and black combination! The only problem is that this pattern would be pretty difficult to adjust for a different gauge. If you want to tackle it and re work the pattern you certainly could but it may be easier to find a yarn that is a more appropriate gauge for the pattern!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Could you substitute linen yarn for this pattern for summer
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for reaching out! As long as the yarn is a similar weight and the gauge is consistent with the pattern, you could certainly use a linen yarn for this jacket!
Warmly,
Gianna
Would really like to make this. Saw where you recommended Whooly Wool but I’m unsure how to determine the yardage needed
Regards
Hi Beverley,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, Woolly Wool is a great option for this jacket! The original Feltro was 98 yards per skein, Woolly Wool has a bit more at 109 yards per skein, and we used 588 (686, 686, 784, 882, 882) yards (in order from the smallest to largest size) so for example, if you are knitting the smallest size you would need 6 skeins of Woolly Wool! Also just be sure to check your gauge prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
I love this pattern and am about half way through, my question is regarding picking up the stitches for the i-cord bind off… I pick up from the right lower front, up the front opening, around the neck and down the left side… when do I pick up around the back hem? or don’t I?
thanks so much, CX
Hi Colette,
Thanks for reaching out! You will only be picking up stitches around the front and the neckline of the jacket, not at the bottom edge!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Love the way this jacket looks and I’m almost done with it. Regarding the i-cord bind off, should I start picking up stitches without binding off the bottom edge?
Hi MH,
Thanks for reaching out! You will bind off all stitches using the 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off (following the instructions in the notes section of the pattern) Not by picking up any stitches.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
What about the icord edging? Should I bind off the bottom before starting the edging or should I keep it unbound and bind it off as I finish the edging?
Hi MH,
You will bind off the stitches as you create the edging, using the 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off (following the instructions in the notes section of the pattern), so you won’t need to bind off the bottom stitches before starting the edging!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Thank you for the Classic Knit Jacket pattern. Wondering about the instructions under Shape Shoulders, short row 4. It says to purl to wrapped stitch etc, k3, then wrp-t. Should it say p3 instead?
Hi Jennifer,
We’re so glad you pointed this out to us! You’re absolutely right and this should say p3 instead. Please know that it should be corrected now and reflected once you refresh the page.
All the best,
Zha Zha
I’d really like to make this. With what you are suggesting to substitute how many skeins would I need for xl?
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for writing in. I would recommend using Woolly Wool, in place of Feltro! Could you specify which size you’re making though? We actually do our sizing based on chest circumference measurements, which I’ll include below:
Sizes 36 (39¼, 42½, 45½) (48¾, 52, 55¼) (59¼, 62½, 65½, 68¾), to fit actual chest circumference of approximately 30–32 (33–35, 36–38, 39–41) (42–44¾, 45¾–48, 49–51¼) (52¼–55, 56–58, 59–61½, 62½–64¾) inches, with 4–7 inches of positive ease.
Let me know which size you want to make, and then I can absolutely let you know how many skeins of Woolly Wool you’ll need to make the jacket!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
Do you think that super soft merino with #12 needles to get 2.5 stitches per inch would work for this jacket? or would I need to combine it with another yarn to make it thicker, if so which one?
Thank you!
Caroline
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out. I think that it’s definitely possible to get 2.5 stitches per inch with Super Soft Merino! I would recommend trying it out on size 12 needles, but you may need to go up a size or two (the pattern actually uses size 15 needles). Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
We had a winter storm last week and I decided to use some leftover Purl Soho Super Soft Merino and make this jacket! It is a fun pattern and I have a suggestion which might benefit those of us who like double points. The pattern calls for using 16″ circulars (I made a size 42 1/2) when picking up the stitches to work the sleeves. If I make this again, I would just pick up straightaway with the double points. It’s tight on the circulars while doing the short rows and, because I’m not an expert knitter, my gauge on the circulars is larger than the gauge on the DP’s once I did shift (after the decreases). It’s not that noticeable but had I thought about it before I would rather have had the gauge on the sleeves more consistent. Great pattern!
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for writing in and sharing your suggestion! I am sure others will find this tip helpful!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
If I wanted to make this a vest instead of a jacket, how would I do this?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly make this pattern as a vest instead of a jacket by simply omitting the SLEEVES section of the pattern. For a nice finished edge around the armhole, I would suggest following a similar finishing technique as we did in our Drift Vest In Lovebird! You can find the information at the end of the pattern under the FINISHING section.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Love this and just bought yarn to make it. I’d like to make it longer (more like a duster) – where do I increase to do that? Thanks!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out. The best place to make this cardigan longer and wider would be during the body! At the end of the CAST ON FOR UNDERARMS + CONTINUE Section, the pattern reads:
“Work in stockinette stitch until Body measures 13½ (13¼, 13¼, 13) (12¾, 12¾, 13¼) (13½, 13¾, 14, 14¼) inches from Underarms, ending with a right-side row.”
At this point, it’s very easy to knit more rows to increase the length, as well as work increases to increase the width! I’d recommend working two increases on either side of the body (directly under the underarms) every few rows. The interval at which you work the increases depends on what you want the slope of the lower body to be.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can this jacket be knitted with straight needles ?
Hi Valerie,
Thanks for reaching out! We recommend working with circular needles for the Classic Knit Jacket because it is all worked in one piece and there are too many stitches to fit onto straight needles. This project is knit top-down and is worked flat on 32″ circular needles.
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
All the best,
Carly
I had a bunch of Lion Brand Hometown USA super bulky, 100% acrylic. The gauge is nearly identical and so far it is working up great ! Best of luck !
I absolutely loved making this garment. Initially I swatched 3 times for gauge because I used a DK yarn, and size 8 US needles. Once I established gauge I was off! The neck construction was quite novel to me and the short row shaping was perfect. Once the armholes are connected, I confess, the stockinette stitches began to run together. The I-cord finish pulled everything together. Bravo!
I will definitely use this pattern again however, it will be modified by using a different stitch and colors. PS I had to add 4×4 inch pockets.
Hi Rozan!
Thank you for sharing about your custom jacket! We are so glad to hear you enjoyed this pattern, and we can’t wait to hear how your next jacket goes!
Happy knitting,
Margaret
Hi Rozan! I would like to make this jacket with DK and size 8 needles as you did. Would you be so kind as to share your cast on number to achieve gage? Thank you in advance!
—Allison
Margaret,
Because your jacket pattern gave such lovely results, I have made a pencil skirt with celtic cable running down the center, and finishing the sleeves on a sweater now. So you see your jacket inspired a 3 piece ensemble.
If you have a need for test knitters, I would appreciate the opportunity to knit for you in the future.
Hi Rozan,
We’re happy to hear this project was so inspiring! I’m sure your jacket and skirt turned out absolutely beautifully, and we’re excited for you to finish your new sweater, too! As for test knitting opportunities, please feel free to follow the appropriate links on our hiring page. We’d love to hear from you!
All the best,
Lili
Hello
I wonder if anyone know how much yarn is required for the whole round of icord bind off
Hi Kisti,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we did not calculate how much yarn was used for only the i-cord bind-off when we knit up this sample. We’re so sorry for the inconvenience!
All the best,
Lili
Oh, that’s OK. Was just pondering if my skein of 50 grams would be enough. Time will tell. Will tag my sweater 😉 when done 😁
I believe 50g should be enough, since the i-cord is so thin, but please let us know what you find out!
All the best,
Lili
Hi again
Have now finished my sweater version of jacket. I used 25gr for I-cord bind off. But then I did not have bind off at front edge. So as you said, I believe 50gr will be enough for whole edge, depending on size of course. Maybe have a extra skein, just in case 👌
I have put up the sweater on my ravelry account, HandmadeByKisti, if you want to take a peek. Will post on IG when it get out of the washer and have been blocked to my fit. Will tag pattern there.
Thank you for a well written and easy to follow pattern.
Oh that’s very useful to know! I’m sure that your measurements will help a lot of other people making this jacket!
All the best,
Lili
Hi
Would this work with a DK or Aran weight yarn? I have tonnes of these but not so much bulky!
Thanks
AnneMarie
Hi Anne Marie,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that this pattern is pretty difficult to modify to use a lighter weight yarn though! However, if you’d like to give it a try, what you can do is knit a different size (larger, in this case, to balance out the smaller gauge).
Here’s how to figure out which size to make: First, make a gauge swatch in pattern with your intended yarn and needles. Once you know how many stitches you’re getting per inch, multiply that number by the chest circumference measurement for your original size. Then, compare the resulting number to the stitch counts around the body of each size (90 (98, 106, 114) (122, 130, 138) (148, 156, 164, 172) total stitches). The size that comes closest is the one you should make!
Alternatively, you could take a look at some other patterns we’ve designed specifically for DK or worsted/aran weight yarns! you can check them all out on this page. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much! Very helpful
Would it be possible to knit this with 2 needles instead of the circular needle?
Hi Sue,
Thanks for reaching out. Since this pattern is knit flat for most of the time, you technically could use straight needles for those parts! However, I would advise against that, since you would need extremely long needles to make that work. Basically, you’d need needles long enough to keep the entire circumference of the body on them at all times. That’s a lot of stitches for any of the sizes!
Then, when it comes time to do the sleeves, you do need to begin knitting in the round. But you can do this on double pointed needles if you’d like!
All the best,
Lili
I am wondering if this pattern is available for fingering weight yarn.
Hi Daniela,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that we have not designed a version of this pattern for fingering weight yarn! If you decide to try to adapt it on your own, please let us know how it goes!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there.
Currently in the process of knitting and reached the point where I am ready to shape armhole ( joining the back and front). I am finding the armhole a bit small. I am knitting the second size and according to the diagram the armhole is supposed to measure 7.75 inches. This seems a bit tight – is it possible to make the armhole bigger by continuing to knit a few more rows before joking the back and front?
Thanks.
Hi Soraya,
Thanks for writing in! For the second size, the circumference of the armholes is actually much wider than 7.75 inches (more than double), since the 7.75in measurement is just the height of the armhole. But if you’re feeling that it’s a bit too tight, then you can absolutely add extra distance by knitting a few more rows before joining the back and front! I’d actually recommend working these rows before the armhole shaping increases, so that the body of your jacket remains the same size. And just keep in mind, you’ll also need to pick up a few more stitches when beginning the sleeves in order to accommodate the modification!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili
I have finished the short rows for shaping the sleeve cap. Is this the time that I join the yarn from both underarm sections of the sleeve cap, to start knitting in the round?
Hi Debbie,
Thank you for writing in! The construction for the sleeves in this pattern are a little unique in that the cap sleeve short rows are worked right after you pick up stitches for working in the round. There’s a note for this step called Pick-Up Round. It sounds like you may have skipped this, so I recommend going back to this section so you can get everything set up correctly for the SHAPE SLEEVE CAP instructions (which contain the short rows and are worked flat as usual) and show up shortly afterwards.
I hope this helps but if you need additional help please don’t hesitate to write in at [email protected] and we would be happy to go over any questions you might have!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Under “shape shoulders” and after the 6 short rows, you have the following:
“Removing stitch markers, work even in stockinette stitch until piece measures 5 (5½, 5¼, 5)(5½, 5½, 5½) (4, 4¾, 4½, 4¼) inches, measuring along selvage. End with a wrong-side row.”
Why does the length get shorter as the cardigan gets bigger? In the schematic of the cardigan, all the measurements go from small to large. Please explain
Hi Molly,
Thank you for writing in! That is a great question and we are happy you asked! There are different parts of the sweater that grow at different rates depending on the size the maker is knitting. You might notice in the next section that larger sizes are instructed to knit more rows and this will help better shape the upper body of the sweater rather than just having each section be longer. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello, I recently finished my Classic Jacket using PS Good Wool on size 13 needles. I really enjoyed the process. The finished jacket is warm, a bit dense and great for brisk weather.However, the front icord trim curls inward. I have steamed blocked and dry cleaned the sweater attempting to flatten it out to no avail. Is there tip you can recommend to smooth it out? Thank you for your help.
Hi Kelly,
Thank you for writing in! Although stockinette stitch tends to curl quite a bit, we think a good spray blocking could help the issue. I recommend adding some water to a spray bottle, spraying just the edges of your jacket, and then laying it flat to dry. You won’t want to fully soak the yarn but rather saturate it just enough to allow the stitches to relax. I would also recommend pinning your edges down to help the fabric dry in place. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Good morning, my name is Laura, Italy, I love this model, but I don’t understand which size to use: my chest measurement is 107 cm or 42.12″. What do you recommend for good comfort? In the Italian translation of the model there are XS , S, M, L, XL, XXL, corresponding to 92, 100, 108, 116,124,132 cm, but I don’t understand if they are measurements of the body or of the finished work. HELP! 🙂
Hi Laura,
Thank you for writing in! The finished chest circumferences in this pattern include 36 (39¼, 42½, 45½) (48¾, 52, 55¼) (59¼, 62½, 65½, 68¾) inches! I hope this helps you better choose a size for your preference but you can also read our handy tutorial on choosing the best size and better understanding ease here!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Would the new Pouf yarn work with this jacket pattern? If so, what size needles, and how many balls would you recommend for the 39.25 finished chest circumference? Thank you!
Hi Ann,
Yes, Pouf would be a lovely choice for this pattern! To figure out what needle size to use, just knit up a gauge swatch. You may need to size your needles up or down in order to achieve the gauge of the pattern! Size 39 1/4 requires 635 yards, so you would need 6 balls of Pouf, since each ball comes with 108 yards. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
As a left handed knitter when I get to the increases do I change the RLI to a LLI? Also, are both increases on the row the same direction (ie both ends of row RLI) or should one end be RLI and the opposite end LLI?
Hi Jerri,
Thanks for writing in! I’d recommend following the instructions exactly as written. As a lefty, when you follow the directions for a RLI, it will come out mirrored as a LLI, and vice versa! That way, your entire project will look exactly the same as our sample–everything will be mirrored, but it’s perfectly symmetrical so that doesn’t change anything.
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I’d like to knit this sweater but would want to make it longer by at least 10” – more like a mid-thigh length. Would this add too much weight? Also, what is the warmest yarn recommendation you can offer to replace the Feltro yarn? I’m replacing a 70% baby alpaca/23% nylon/7% merino wool Einstein sweater (Sally Melville) that is worn out. Thanks much.
Hi Beth,
Thanks for writing in! I don’t think that will add too much weight at all! Based on the gauge of this pattern, our Super Soft Merino would be the best fit. This yarn is made from 100% merino wool, so it’s extremely warm and soft!
All the best,
Lili
Hi it’s me again, the left handed knitter. Do you have any instructions for a left hander regarding the shoulder picking up stitches and shaping. I have been struggling for past 2 weeks to get the directions orientation correct to line up my needles in the correct position to do the shaping of the shoulders. As a left hander I approach the pickups going from left to right as opposed to right to left. Doesn’t set up properly. My working yarn is at the opposite direction. Should I reverse the sides so the instructions that are for the right shoulder becomes my left shoulder and vise/versa my left becomes my right???
Hi Jerri,
Yep, exactly! Since lefty knitting is just righty knitting but mirrored, you can just reverse the sides in the pattern. The “right shoulder” is actually your left shoulder, and vice versa!
All the best,
Lili