Classic Knit Jacket
Our Classic Knit Jacket embraces the Japanese aesthetic principle of kanso. Kanso is the idea that a sense of grace and calm emerges from designs that are pared down to their most basic forms.
To keep our Jacket simple, we knit up a timeless silhouette in smooth stockinette stitch. Our no-fuss approach highlights the unique beauty of Purl Soho’s Lanecardate Feltro, a super cozy and sturdy blend of superfine wool and angora.
Knit from the top down with set-in sleeves, we also kept our Classic Knit Jacket’s construction as easy as can be. Simple, elegant, and refined… Kanso! -Kristy
Materials
- 6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 9) skeins of Purl Soho’s Lanecardate Feltro, 75% superfine wool, 25% Caregora angora. We used the color Medium Gray (Grigio 3).
- US 15, 32-inch circular needles
- US 15, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 15 double pointed needles
- Two jumbo stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Gauge
10 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
36 (39 ¼, 42 ½, 45 ½, 48 ¾, 52)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 36 (39 ¼, 42 ½, 45 ½, 48 ¾, 52) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22 (23, 23 ¼, 24 ¼, 24 ½, 25 ¾) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 13 ½ (14, 14, 14 ½, 14 ½, 15 ¼) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 16 ¾ (17, 17, 17 ½, 17 ½, 18) inches
EASE: This garment is designed with a 4- to 6-inch ease around the chest.
SAMPLE: The sweater pictured here is Women’s Size 42 ½ inches.
Notes
Abbreviations
Inv inc (invisible increase): Pick up stitch from row below next stitch and place it on the left needle. Knit picked up stitch and then knit the original stitch. [1 stitch increased]
Wrp-t (wrap and turn):
- On the right side: Keeping the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
- On the wrong side: Keeping the yarn in front, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn to the back. Return the slipped stitch to the left needle. Bring the yarn to the front. Turn the work so the right side is facing you.
For more information about wrapping and turning, and also about working wraps together with wrapped stitches, visit our Short Rows Tutorial
Techniques + Tips
2-stitch I-cord Bind Off
Cable cast on 1 stitch.
*Knit the first stitch on the left needle, then knit the second and third stitches together through the back loops.
Slip the two stitches on the right needle back to the left needle and repeat from * until you have bound off all stitches, and you are back at the beginning of the round (two I-cord stitches remain on right needle).
To finish, cut yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail. Remove the first stitch from the right needle and pull on the loop of the stitch to bring the tail through so that there is no longer a loop, just a tail. Thread the tail through the remaining stitch on right needle.
With a tapestry needle, neatly join the end of the I-cord to the beginning by threading the yarn underneath the first bound-off stitch.
Weaving in the Ends of Lanecardate Feltro
Unravel the tail into three separate strands, and weave in each strand separately. This will prevent a bulky ridge in your finished knitting.
Pattern
Back
Begin
Use a long-tail cast on to cast 36 (38, 40, 42, 44, 46) stitches onto the 32-inch circular needles. Do not join for working in the round.
Set-up Row (wrong side): P10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13), pm (place marker), p16 (16, 16, 18, 18, 20), pm, p10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13).
Shape Shoulders
Short Row 1 (right side): [Knit to marker, sm (slip marker)] twice, k3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t (see Notes).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): [Purl to marker, sm] twice, p3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, k3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch from previous wrong side row, purl wrap together with wrapped stitch, p3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, knit to end.
Row 6: Purl to wrapped stitch from previous wrong side row, purl wrap together with wrapped stitch, purl to end.
Work in stockinette stitch (removing stitch markers) until piece measures 5 (5 ½, 5 ¼, 5, 5 ½, 5 ½) inches, measured at side of Armhole, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Armholes
Increase Row (right side): K2, inv inc (see Notes), knit to last 3 stitches, inv inc, k2. [2 stitches increased]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl.
Repeat the last two rows 3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 6) more times. [44 (46, 50, 54, 56, 60) stitches]
Cut yarn and place stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn.
Front
Pick Up at Shoulders
With right side of Back facing you and using 32-inch circular needles, join yarn and pick up 10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13) stitches along the cast-on edge (for Right Front); skip center 16 (16, 16, 18, 18, 20) cast-on stitches (for Back Neck); with a separate ball of yarn, pick up 10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13) stitches along the remaining cast-on edge (for Left Front). [10 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13) stitches for each Front]
Shape Shoulders
Note: Work the Left and Right Fronts at the same time, using separate balls of yarn for each Front.
Set-up Row (wrong side): Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- Purl to end.
Short Row 1 (right side): Right Front- Knit to neck edge; Left Front- K3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 2: Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- P3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Right Front- Knit to neck edge; Left Front- Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, k3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- Purl to wrapped stitch from previous wrong side row, purl wrap together with wrapped stitch, p3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4), wrp-t.
Short Row 5: Right Front- Knit to neck edge; Left Front- Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, knit to end.
Row 6: Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- Purl to wrapped stitch from previous wrong side row, purl wrap together with wrapped stitch, purl to end.
Shape Neck
Row 1 (right side): Right Front- Knit to 3 stitches before neck edge, inv inc, k2; Left Front- K2, inv inc, knit to end. [1 stitch increased at each neck edge]
Row 2 (wrong side): Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- Purl to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) more time(s). [12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 16) stitches each Front]
Cast on for Front Neck + Continue Fronts
Row 1 (right side): Right Front- Knit to neck edge, turn so that wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7) stitches, turn so that right side is facing you; Left Front- Knit to end.
Note: While working the next row on the Left Front, knit the stitch next to the newly cast-on stitches through the back loop, if there is a noticeable gap.
Row 2 (wrong side): Left Front- Purl to neck edge, turn so that right side is facing you, cable cast on 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7) stitches, turn so that wrong side is facing you; Right Front- Purl to end. [18 (19, 20, 21, 22, 23) stitches each Front]
Work even in stockinette stitch until Fronts measure 5 (5 ½, 5 ¼, 5, 5 ½, 5 ½) inches from pick-up row, measured at side of Armhole.
Shape Armholes
Row 1 (right side): Right Front- Knit 2, inv inc, knit to neck edge; Left Front- Knit to last 3 stitches, inv inc, k2. [1 stitch increased at each Armhole edge]
Row 2 (wrong side): Left Front- Purl to neck edge; Right Front- Purl to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three (3, 4, 5, 5, 6) more times. [22 (23, 25, 27, 28, 30) stitches each Front]
Cut yarn for Right Front.
Body
Join Back and Fronts
With their wrong sides facing you, slip the Back stitches onto the needles, next to the Left Front stitches, then slip the Right Front stitches onto the needles, next to the Back stitches. Resume with the yarn attached to the Left Front and the right side facing you.
Cast on for Underarms + Continue
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of Left Front, * turn so that wrong side is facing you and cable cast on 1 (3, 3, 3, 5, 5) stitch(es) for Left Underarm, turn so that right side is facing you,** knit to end of Back, repeat from * to ** for Right Underarm, knit to end of Right Front. [90 (98, 106, 114, 122, 130) stitches]
Work in stockinette stitch until Body measures 13 ½ (14, 14, 14 ½, 14 ½, 15 ¼) inches from Underarms, ending with a right side row.
Knit Edging
With right side facing and starting at bottom corner of Right Front, pick up 2 stitches for every 3 rows up center edge of Right Front.
With right side still facing, pick up 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7) stitches along Right Front Neck cast-on; 2 stitches for every 3 rows around Right Neck edge; one stitch in each stitch across Back Neck; 2 stitches for every 3 rows around Left Neck edge; 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7) stitches along Left Front Neck cast-on; and 2 stitches for every 3 rows down center edge of Left Front.
With right side facing and working across the bottom body stitches first, bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off (see Notes).
Sleeves
Pick Up
With the right side facing you and using 16-inch circular needles, begin at center of an Underarm and pick up 16 (17, 18, 20, 21, 22) stitches evenly up one side of Armhole to where the Front and Back join; pick up 16 (17, 18, 20, 21, 22) stitches evenly down other side of Armhole to center of Underarm. Place marker for end of round and join to work in the round. [32 (34, 36, 40, 42, 44) stitches]
Shape Sleeve Cap
Short Row 1: K22 (23, 24, 27, 29, 30), wrp-t.
Short Row 2: P12 (12, 12, 14, 16, 16), wrp-t.
Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, wrp-t.
Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, purl wrap together with wrapped stitch, wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 3 and 4 seven (eight, nine, ten, ten, eleven) more times.
Next Row: Knit to wrapped stitch from previous right side row, knit wrap together with wrapped stitch, knit to end-of-round marker. Resume working in the round.
Next Round: Knit to end, knitting last wrap together with wrapped stitch.
Knit 2 rounds.
Shape Sleeve
Note: Change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Decrease Round: Ssk, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. [2 stitches decreased]
Continuing in stockinette stitch (knitting each round), repeat the Decrease Round every 1 (1, 1, 3, 3, 3) inch(es) 2 (2, 2, 4, 4, 5) more times. [26 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32) stitches]
Continue in stockinette stitch, until sleeve measures 16 ¾ (17, 17, 17 ½, 17 ½, 18) inches from Underarm (or desired length).
Bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind-Off (see Notes).
Work second Sleeve same as the first.
Weave + Block
Weave in ends (see Notes) and block as desired.
PRINT
Is this knit with a bulky yarn or a super bulky yarn?
Hi Paolina,
Thanks for writing in! We used a super bulky yarn for this jacket, but the super bulky category includes a fairly wide range of yarn thicknesses. When considering alternate yarns, I would suggest taking a look at the recommended needle size and gauge on the yarn label to make sure it is close to 10 stitches and 14 rows to 4 inches on a US 15 needle.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have a question about the I-cord bind off.
After picking up all the stitches from the bottom corner of the right front all the way around to the bottom of the left front, where it says to bind off across the bottom body stitches…
Here’s my question…. I ended the pick up stitches at the left front bottom and the working yarn was left at the bottom of the right front where the pick up stitches began. Do I cut the working yarn off and start the bind off across the bottom with a new yarn?
Thanks to anyone who can help with this!
Pati
Hi Pati,
Thanks for reaching out! I believe that you shouldn’t cut the tail, but you should use the working yarn for the bind off!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m confused… So how do I get the working yarn from the lower right corner to the left corner to start the bind off?
Hi Pati,
Thanks for writing in again! It sounds like you need to work an additional row to get the yarn on the correct side to begin the bind off!
I hope this helps, but if you continue to have problems you can send us a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can troubleshoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
Thank you so much Gianna!
I’m curious,
Just before the bind off where the pattern says to end with a right side row… did I read it wrong? I knitted the right side row and ended up with the working yarn at the bottom of the right front. Should it say to end with the wrong side row so the working yarn is at the bottom of the left side?
Differentiating between the “right front” and the “right side” has me muddled up a bit!!
No matter what, I’m rolling again and really appreciate your help! Have a wonderful weekend!
Pati
Hi Pati,
Thanks for writing in again! I know the phrasing can be a bit confusing… So for example in the last row of the BODY section when we say “With right side facing and working across the bottom body stitches first, bind off all stitches using 2-Stitch I-Cord Bind Off” We mean the right side of the fabric facing you, not the right side of the work!
Have fun finishing this jacket, happy knitting!
Gianna
I really like this style of jacket…. do the measurements work if being made for a man?
Hi Raymond,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a relatively unisex style so the measurements should work to accommodate a man!
All the best,
Gianna
Can you recommend a yarn for this pattern for those who are unable to wear wool?
Hi Beth,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have a non wool option at this same weight, however you could use something like BLUE SKY FIBERS Worsted Cotton and hold it double to achieve a similar gauge! I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning the pattern to insure it is consistent or if it will need any adjustments!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Greetings to ALL.
I see such beauty in the Classic Jacket and the vest as well. This is my look. Letting the style and the tarn speak for themselves. Taking a lesson from the earth itself. I am sad I cannot purchase your yarn as my body rejects wool. Period. Isn’t it funny, a prime natural fiber and my beliefs, cannot be in sync. Sadly too is with any other natural fiber the essence is lost. I will never be in New York but if it was possible it would be there I would come first. I applaud you with keeping to your ethics so strongly. That’s all I wanted to say. So much continued well being for everyone there. Be well, stay well and always carry treats for the 4 legged ones, horses too, that make life so much happier.
Would it be possible to make this in a worsted weight yarn? I know the needle size (probably a US 6) would change as would the number of stitches cast on, etc., but would it be possible?
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out! If you are up for a bit of a challenge you can certainly knit this Jacket in a worsted weight! It would take a bit of re-gauging so I suggest working a gauge swatch with the worsted yarn you wish to work with on an appropriate needles size (typically we suggest a US 6-8) and the you can calculate from there based on your stitch per inch! I recommend checking out our All About Gauge tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use!
Warmly,
Gianna
Bonjour,
Avez-vous les explications en Français ?
Cordialement,
Claire GAILLARD
Hi Claire,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, our patterns are only available in english. Thank you for much for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’d like to try knitting this as a double (two-faced)knit as a heavier jacket. Am having trouble figuring out how to convert the number of stitches needed for this– in the double-knit baby blanket pattern it talks about double the number of stitches for the width you want (at appropriate gauge). Would that be the right thing to do?
Hi Martha,
Thanks for reaching out! That is such a fun idea, and a really great question! It may take a bit of playing around since the jacket has more dimension than a flat blanket but I think following the basics of the Double Knit Blanket should work out fine! The body pieces should be pretty straight forward, the only spot that may be a bit tricky is the sleeves since they are worked in the round. I would work a swatch double knitting in the round to see how the technique would work!
I hope this helps and please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi
I’m confused by the short row instructions. Specifically, what is meant by “twice”, I knit 4 do the wrap and then turn. Do I put back to the beginning and then knit again the four wrap and turn and purl back again?
Hi JW,
Thanks for reaching out! I presume that you are at the shape shoulder section?
In that case after the set-up row you should have placed 2 markers, so for example with row 1 you will Knit to marker, sm (slip marker) twice; meaning you knit to the first marker, slip the marker to the other needle, then continue knitting to the 2nd marker, and slip that marker to the other needle. You will then knit an addition 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) stitches after slipping the maker, then wrap the stitch and turn the work! You will then follow the same process for row 2. After you wrap and turn in row 1 you will move directly to row 2 purling to the marker, slip the marker to the other needle, then continue purling to the next marker, and slip that marker to the other needle and purl and additional 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) stitches, wrp-t.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this pattern and would like to use the recommended yarn (Lanecardate Feltro) but it does not seem to be available. Is there any information you can give me on it? Do you have a substitute if it is not available?
Hi Marilyn,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately Lanecardate Feltro has been discontinued and is no longer available. In it’s place I would recommend using our newest yarn, Woolly Wool! I also always recommend working a gauge swatch when using a different yarn than suggested in the pattern prior to beginning to insure you are consistent!
I hope this helps and pease let me know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love your patterns and your tutorials! My question is, could you felt this jacket??? Thanks!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I haven’t heard of anyone felting this jacket but I think you certainly could!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, I love this jacket. I have a question regarding picking up the cast-on stitches. When I do this, I’m basically losing ‘half’ a stitch at each end because the picked up stitch is created in between two stitches going in opposite orientation. So in order to have the same number of stitches, I need to ‘create’ one, either at the beginning or at the end of the cast-on row. Any recommendations?
Thanks!
Hi Ale,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d recommend you take a look at our tutorial on Picking Up Stitches and watch the video Along A Horizontal Edge. This should help clarify how to pick up each stitch so that you’re not having to create a new one.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
I love this jacket and have knit two of them! Now I’d like to try a different look with a hot pink cotton yarn, knitting the Icord trim in black. My yarn is Drops Safran yarn group A. Would it be possible to adjust the pattern to use this vastly different yarn?
Hi Sue,
Thanks for writing in! I think this jacket would look awesome in a hot pink and black combination! The only problem is that this pattern would be pretty difficult to adjust for a different gauge. If you want to tackle it and re work the pattern you certainly could but it may be easier to find a yarn that is a more appropriate gauge for the pattern!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Could you substitute linen yarn for this pattern for summer
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for reaching out! As long as the yarn is a similar weight and the gauge is consistent with the pattern, you could certainly use a linen yarn for this jacket!
Warmly,
Gianna
Would really like to make this. Saw where you recommended Whooly Wool but I’m unsure how to determine the yardage needed
Regards
Hi Beverley,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, Woolly Wool is a great option for this jacket! The original Feltro was 98 yards per skein, Woolly Wool has a bit more at 109 yards per skein, and we used 588 (686, 686, 784, 882, 882) yards (in order from the smallest to largest size) so for example, if you are knitting the smallest size you would need 6 skeins of Woolly Wool! Also just be sure to check your gauge prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
I love this pattern and am about half way through, my question is regarding picking up the stitches for the i-cord bind off… I pick up from the right lower front, up the front opening, around the neck and down the left side… when do I pick up around the back hem? or don’t I?
thanks so much, CX
Hi Colette,
Thanks for reaching out! You will only be picking up stitches around the front and the neckline of the jacket, not at the bottom edge!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna