Wool + Cotton Sewn Ear Flap Hat
A few years ago, I designed a Winter Baby Bonnet lined in Michael Miller’s cozy Organic Cotton Sherpa. My kids still wear versions of this hat, and every morning as I bundle them up, I feel a little pang of regret. Why didn’t I make adult sizes too?!
So, now I have! I designed this Wool + Cotton Sewn Ear Flap Hat with all the cozy appeal of the baby version but with an adult sensibility. Still with a Sherpa lining, Lanecardate’s exquisite Lana Cotta Canberra adds a layer of warmth and sophistication, all in a classic Amelia Earhart shape. Warm and cozy, beautiful and chic… And no more regrets! -Corinne
To make our Wool + Cotton Sewn Ear Flap Hat you will need…
- Outer Fabric: A fat quarter of Lanecardate’s Lana Cotta Canberra, 18 x 23 inches, shown above from left to right in Oatmeal, Light Grey, and Medium Grey (Please Note: We are no longer carrying Lanecardate’s Lana Cotta Canberra but recommend using Dorr Mill’s Wool Yardage in its stead.)
- Lining Fabric: ½ yard of Michael Miller’s Organic Sherpa, 42-44 inches wide
- Tie Fabric: A piece of Lanecardate’s Lana Cotta Canberra, 5 x 18 inches, shown above from left to right in Light Grey, Medium Grey, and Dark Grey
- A 110-yard spool of Gutermann’s Cotton Sewing Thread, shown above from left to right in colors 9045, 9240, and 9280
- 1 yard of Purl Soho’s Braided Linen Cord, Large
You will also need …
- A fabric marking tool
- A zipper foot for your sewing machine
- A walking foot for your sewing machine
- A Wool + Cotton Sewn Ear Flap Hat template, printed and cut out
To fit most women
Finished Circumference: 20 inches
Finished Height (from the bottom of the ear flap to the top seam): 10 inches
- The right side of the Lana Cotta Canberra wool is the side with the small “V” pattern (as opposed to the side with the ridges).
- The recommended care for Lanecardate’s Lana Cotta Canberra is dry clean only.
- Use ¼-inch seam allowances unless otherwise noted.
Use the prepared Outer Hat template to cut one Outer Hat from the Outer Fabric on the fold. Transfer marks A–D from the template onto the wrong side of the Fabric. Be sure to transfer them onto each half of the Outer Hat so there are two sets of marks.
Use the prepared Lining template to cut one Lining from the Lining Fabric on the fold. Transfer marks A–C from the template onto the wrong side of the Fabric. Again, transfer a set of marks to each half of the Lining.
From the Tie Fabric, cut two 1 ½ by 18–inch strips.
Trim the Cord to approximately 19 inches.
Prepare the Ties
With its wrong side facing up, lay out one of the cut rectangles from the Tie Fabric.
Lay the trimmed cord on top so that it runs down the center of the fabric, and one cut edge is in line with the top short edge of the rectangle.
Fold the fabric in half lengthwise around the cord. Sew the fold and cord in place along the top short edge.
Now, change the foot of your sewing machine to the zipper foot, and with the fabric still folded around the cord, sew down the long side of the rectangle, as close to the cord as possible.
Trim the seam allowances to 1/8 inch.
Gently tug on the cord to pull it through the sewn channel (you may need to wiggle the cord a bit at the top sewn edge to get it moving). Continue tugging the cord until the Tie is turned completely right side out.
The cord will still be connected at one end of the Tie. Snip the cord off by cutting through the Tie about ¼ inch down from the connecting seam line.
Repeat with the remaining cut rectangle to make the second Tie.
Prepare the Outer Hat
Change the foot of your sewing machine back to the standard foot.
With right sides together, fold the Outer Hat in half along the same fold in the fabric you used when you cut the Outer Hat piece. Make sure to align the two sets of A-D marks.
Starting at point A, sew the two layers together along the long curved raw edge, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam.
Press the seam open. This is the Back Seam.
Now, with the Hat still folded and starting at point C, sew the two sides together along the short curved raw edge. Follow the line of the curve until the seam runs through the fold of the fabric.
Cut through the fold of the seam allowance. Be careful to not cut past the seam line.
Press the seam open. This is the Front Seam.
With right sides together, fold the Hat so that the top of the Front Seam is stacked on top of the point B to the right of the Front Seam.
Starting at the marked point, sew along the curve of the right-hand raw edge. Follow the line of the curve until the seam runs through the fold of the fabric.
Cut along the fold of the seam allowance as illustrated above. This is the Right Front Seam.
Where the two seams intersect, the Right Front Seam has caught a flap of the Front Seam’s seam allowance. To tidy this intersection…
First, clip the small flap along the line of the Right Front Seam. Next, make a cut into the front layer of the Right Front Seam’s seam allowance. The cut should be at a 45-degree angle to the Right Front Seam and end at the top of the seam.
Press the Right Front Seam open. The angled cut at the top of the seam allowance should run parallel to the Front Seam.
Now, with right sides together, fold the Hat so that the top of the Front Seam and Right Front Seam is stacked on top of the point B to the left of the Front Seam. Sew, trim, and press as described above. This is the Left Front Seam.
With right sides together, fold the Hat so that the top of the Right Front Seam is stacked on top of the Back Seam. Sew, trim, and press as described above.
Repeat with the Left Front Seam.
Prepare the Lining
Change the foot of your sewing machine to the walking foot and sew the Lining as described for the Outer Hat.
Attach the Outer Hat and Lining
With right sides together, slide the Lining inside the Outer Hat. Align the Back Seams, and pin the pieces together along all the raw edges.
At one point D, slip a Tie in between the layers of the Hat.
Line up one short edge of the Tie with the raw edge of the Hat at the marked spot. Pin the Tie in place.
Repeat on the other side with the remaining Tie piece.
With the walking foot still attached to the machine, sew around the pinned edge, leaving a 2 ½-inch gap at the Back Seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Trim the seam allowance along the sewn edge, leaving the unsewn area untrimmed.
Pull the Hat right side out through the unsewn gap and press the edge flat.
Sew the gap closed with a Ladder Stitch. For a detailed explanation of this stitch, check out our Ladder Stitch Tutorial.
Once you’ve finished sewing, try the Hat on. Trim the Ties to your desired length and make a small overhand knot at each end.