This Garter Ear Flap Hat was an engineering feat to get me back on my feet. You see, I didn’t exactly have that quintessential fresh-start feeling that so often comes with the New Year. Instead, I spent January 1st in bed with the flu and its attendant fever, aches, chills, and delirium. Just as the worst was passing, Mother Nature blasted us with a Polar Vortex that I did not have the strength nor will to face.
Cabin fever set in! Groggy from illness and stir-crazed from quarantine, I was determined to prove my health (and sanity), and so, making this hat became a triumphant product of my bruised spirit. I created this hat that simultaneously hangs on and hugs my head, which provides protection and insulation from a season that had been beating me down.
Still enamored with the ease of working short rows in garter stitch (as with my Knit Elbow Patches), I constructed this hat in one seamless piece using Purl Soho’s soft and lush Alpaca Pure. The more I knit with this incredibly comforting yarn, the better I felt. And the topper made it official. Slightly pointed with a tiny tassel, the finish delivered cheer and whimsy. I was back to my healthy self!
With my head toasty warm and back in full heath, that fresh-start feeling did arrive… just a little late this year. A belated Happy New Year to all! May it be a healthy one. -Laura
Materials
- 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure, 100% alpaca. I used the colors Heirloom White (Artemisia, Storm Gray) for the Baby (Kid, Adult Medium) hat. (Please Note: Alpaca Pure is currently unavailable. For these projects you will need between 109 and 218 yards.) To browse worsted weight yarns, click here!)
- US 8, 12-inch (for Baby size) or 16-inch circular needle
- US 7, 12-inch (for Baby size) or 16-inch circular needle
- Set of US 7 double pointed needles
- 4 removable stitch markers
- 1 stitch markers of a different color to indicate end-of-round
Gauge
4 1/4 stitches and 8 rows = 1 inch in garter stitch with smaller needle
Sizes
Baby (Toddler, Kid, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large)
- Finished Circumference: 14 (16, 17 3/4, 19 3/4, 21 3/4, 23 1/2) inches
- Finished Height: 7 1/4 (8, 9, 10, 11 1/2, 12 3/4) inches, from bottom of ear flap to top of hat, not including tassel
Notes
The Right and Left Ear Flaps are shaped using short rows. For our complete Short Rows Tutorial, please click here. NOTE: Because the short rows are worked in garter stitch in this pattern, you do not have to pick up the wraps; simply ignore the wraps when you come to them and work the wrapped stitch normally.
wrp-t [wrap and turn]: keeping the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn forward as if to purl. Return the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle. Turn the work.
s2kp [slip slip knit pass]: Slip two stitches together knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off needle. (2 stitches decreased)
Pattern
Begin
With larger needle, cast on 60 (68, 76, 84, 92, 100) stitches.
Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Knit 2 rounds.
Change to smaller needles.
Next round: Knit 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 6) stitches, place marker (pm), knit 16 (18, 20, 23, 25, 27) stitches for Left Ear Flap, pm, knit 22 (24, 28, 30, 32, 34) stitches for Front, pm, knit 16 (18, 20, 23, 25, 27) stitches for Right Ear Flap, pm, knit to end.
Shape Left Ear Flap
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will be working in Short Rows, back and forth, turning the work part way through each round, rather than continuing to the end of the needle. For a tutorial, click here.
NOTE: If a dash (” – “) appears in place of a number for your size, omit this line of instruction.
Next Row (right side): Knit to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before second marker, wrp-t.
Next Row: Knit to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, -, -, 11) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, -, 10, 10) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, 9, 9, 9) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, 8, 8, 8, 8) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (7, 7, 7, 7, 7) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows (all sizes): Knit to 6 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 5 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 4 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 2 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 1 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Shape Right Ear Flap
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will once again be working in Short Rows.
NOTE: If a ” – ” appears in place of a number for your size, omit this line of instruction.
Next Row (right side): Knit to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before fourth marker, wrp-t.
Next Row: Knit to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, -, -, 11) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, -, 10, 10) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, 9, 9, 9) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, 8, 8, 8, 8) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (7, 7, 7, 7, 7) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows (all sizes): Knit to 6 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 5 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 4 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 2 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 1 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Row: Knit to end of round.
Work Body of Hat
Round 1: Purl (removing 4 stitch markers).
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until piece measures 4 (4 1/4, 4 3/4, 5 1/4, 6 1/4, 7) inches from the rolled edge at the center of an Ear Flap, or until approximately 3 1/4 (3 3/4, 4 1/4, 4 3/4, 5 1/4, 5 3/4) inches shy of desired finished height.
Shape Crown of Hat
NOTE: Switch to double pointed needles when necessary.
Set-Up Round: P7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12), k1, mark previous stitch, [p14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24), k1, mark previous stitch] three times, purl to end of round.
Round 1: [Knit to one stitch before next marked stitch, s2kp (see Pattern Notes above), move stitch marker to the s2kp] four times, knit to end of round. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 2: [Purl to marked stitch, k1] four times, purl to end of round.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: Repeat Round 2.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 five (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) more times. [12 (12, 12, 12, 12, 12) stitches]
Next Round: Repeat Round 1. [4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) stitches]
Next Round: Knit.
Finish
Cut yarn leaving a 24-inch tail, thread onto tapestry needle and pull through remaining stitches. Make a Tiny Attached Tassel by following the instructions found here.
Weave in your ends and block as desired.
PRINT
I’m knitting the toddler size and am stuck at the set up row. I believe I’d made some errors along the way and am confused as to how to proceed.
I cast on 68, completed my short rows and knit the body. I hadn’t counted my stitches until the set up row but I have 71. How many should I have at this point?
As far as the set up row… purl 8, knit 1, mark the previous stitch (place a movable marker on the knit stitch, correct), purl 16, knit 1, mark previous stitch…. 3 times and purl remaining. 26×3=78.. plus any stitches left over.
Perhaps I did my short rows wrong and there were meant to be increases that I didn’t knit. It sounds like I’ve made errors in a couple places and am wondering where I may have gone wrong. I’m not opposed to frogging it and starting again, but I wouldn’t want to make the same mistakes. In the meantime, I’ll keep browsing through comments and Ravelry to see if anyone else had the same problem.
Hello Jena,
Thank you for reaching out! At this point you should still have your 68 stitches. Your set up row- “p8,k1, mark previous stitch, [p16, k1, mark previous stitch] three times, purl to end of round” – comes to 8 + 1 + (16+1)x3 + 8 = 68. This means that you could evenly decreases by three stitches and then proceed with the pattern as written, or you could of course frog and start from the beginning.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Ah ha, I was miscalculating. I’ll proceed from here and see how it goes. Thanks!
I got confused with where to place the stitch markers when decreasing at the top of the hat. The directions said to mark the previous stitch… does that mean the marker should go before or after the decrease stitch? As I finished the hat, I ended up with the stitches between the decrease seams being really uneven, which I assume is because I didn’t have the markers in the right spot. I made the hat too big, so I’m remaking it and I want to get it right this time!
Hi Caitlin,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the Garter Ear Flap Hat uses double decreases, it is actually not helpful to place your marker on the needle, as you will have to move it out of the way on each row and it can be tricky to tell where to place it. The best way to mark this stitch is to use a removable stitch marker, and place it in the previous stitch itself, in the row just under the needle. After a few decrease rows the stitch will be very easy to find even without the marker since there will be a column of stockinette stitches and decreases standing out from the surrounding garter stitch, but you can also move the marker up the column of stitches if necessary.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you! I was marking the immediately previous stitch, not the same stitch in the previous row. This makes much better sense! Maybe that should be clarified in the pattern?
Hi Caitlin,
I’m so happy that I was able to help! In general, if a pattern says to “mark a stitch” instead of “place marker,” this indicates to place a removable marker on the stitch itself instead of on the needle, but I will pass your edit suggestion along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I also had issues understanding this. Maybe the explanation could go up where the notes for wrapping and ss2k are? Thanks!
Hi Hollie,
Thanks for the suggestion! I will certainly pass this along to the design team to consider when this pattern is up for editing!
Best,
Julianna
Thankyou for the lovely pattern! Im knitting the baby size, i have a question about how to continue once the first ear flap has been shaped. (Directly after the short rows) in the pattern it ends with “Next Two Rows: Knit to 1 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.” And then moves straight on to the next ear flap. I have a wrapped stitch left on my left needle and a stitch marker after that. Do i turn and knit across the ear flap ive just done and then the last few stitches to get to the end and then knit a row in between starting the next ear flap? Or do i continue on to knit the rest of the stitches for that row (across the other 3 markers) even if the yarn is purl wise to begin with? I dont think its clearly explained in the pattern itself 🙂 confused at this point- i am a visual learner and deciphering the pattern has been tricky so far.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that you will be leaving one wrapped stitch on the first ear flap while you work the second ear flap, and, similarly, after finishing the second ear flap, you will also have one wrapped stitch left over when the flap is complete. Once you finish the second ear flap, you will then knit one round all the way around the hat. Some people find that that these two leftover wrapped stitches create holes in the corners of the ear flaps, so if that is the case for you, you can knit the wrap together with its stitch as we show in our Wrap and Turn Short Rows tutorial during this knit round.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
When you do your first wrap turn you end up with your yarn as purl do you purl back to the beginning stitch marker of the ear flap or knit? It doesn’t make sense because your yarn is in purl position not knit. Help?!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out! After working the wrap and turn, you will simply move your yarn to the back so you are ready to knit the next set of stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello!
I am also confused on this. After completing the first wrap and turn I’m now on the purl side. If I bring my yarn to the back and knit, that only leaves me two stitches before 7 ahead of the next marker. Is that right? But rather,? if I purl back like the video suggests should I stop at the marker or the beginning of the round before the next wrap and turn and thus beginning the knit to 7 stitches ahead of the next marker?
Hi Courtney,
Yes, on some sizes of the hat, you will only have a few stitches to knit before you have to work the next wrap and turn, so that sounds correct! Our video is a general wrap and turn tutorial and shows how to work them in stockinette stitch, but since this hat is in garter stitch, it is correct to knit on both sides of the work.
Best,
Julianna
When knitting the ear flap it says knit the next two rows to 6 before marker. So my question is I knit to 6 before marker wrap and turn and knit back to six before marker..is that the second row? Or am I going back and forth twice? It seems that the ear flap is to big if you go back and forth twice. This is the baby size.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! For these short rows, you will only be knitting two rows total, one on the wrong side and one on the right side, for each step.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I am making the toddler size hat and the number of stitches cast on (68) does not match to number of stitches on the 3/4 row when you start placing the place markers-that totals 64….I’m confused and struggling to read through 524 comments to see if there is an answer….
Hi Christine,
Thanks for reaching out! It is true that the stitch counts in this row only add up to 64, but after you place the last marker, the last step in the instructions for this row is to knit to the end of the row, so you will knit the last four stitches for a total of 68 and then continue on to the next row.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Is it just the ear flaps that are in garter stitch then it changes to stocking stitch with the reverse side showing.
Thanks so much Judy
Hi Judy,
Thanks for reaching out! The body of this hat is actually entirely in garter stitch – once you complete the ear flaps, you will work the rest of the hat in garter stitch in the round by alternating knit and purl rounds.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi! I’m making this again and it appears the pure alpaca is on its way out. What other yarn do you suggest using? The 8-ply cashmere looks like it might work (and looks amazing!) What about worsted hand dyes? I’m concerns about it being soft enough for a baby!
Hello Laura,
Thank you for reaching out! Wow, both of those options would be perfect, they are what I would have reccomended! They are both so soft and beautiful.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks Marilla! I’ll try both! 🙂
Hi! i made this hat last winter and absolutely loved it and also the alpaca pure is excellent quality yarn. Will there be more colors available in alpaca pure before winter? I want to make a larger one for my baby.
Hello Carroll,
Thank you for reaching out! While our Alpaca Pure yarn has been discontinued, this hat would be beautiful and soft in our Worsted Twist which is 100% Merino Wool with lots of color options.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, I love this hat but I am really struggling with it. Should the first two rows be knit or should one be Purl? Otherwise isn’t it stockinette when In the photos it’s clearlt garter. Also on the right ear flap, if I wrap and turn at the last stitch before the last marker ie the last wrap and turn, then I’m knitting back the wrong way surely? I guess it is me not understanding it as lots of others have managed it but advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Hi Elspeth,
Thanks for reaching out! You will be knitting the first two rows to create a narrow rolled stockinette edge, and will then work the rest of the hat in garter stitch. It does look like the edging is also garter stitch in some of the pictures, but it’s just because it rolls so tightly so only the purl side is visible. When working the ear flaps, each short row is worked twice, first on the right side and then on the wrong side, so after knitting the final short row the second time, you will turn back to the right side to knit the final row and continue on with the rest of the hat.
I hope that clears everything up!
Julianna
My query is similar to that from Laura Swaby 22 May 2019.
When I finished knitting the Left ear flap, that is knitting 1 stitch before marker,( which is done twice) the pattern says wrp-t ( wrap and turn).
So by turning you are looking to knit across the Left flap.
Should it be that instead of turning at the end of the flap I should be knitting across the three markers to start the right Flap?
Thanks
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! When working the short rows for the ear flap, you will be working each short row twice, first on the right side and second on the wrong side, ending with a wrap and turn, so you will have the right side facing at the end of the left ear flap. At the beginning of the right ear flap, the first row instructs you to knit to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before the fourth marker, which will include knitting over the left ear flap one more time.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, it’s my first time to do a wrap and turn. What do you mean by “knit to 11 stitches before the marker”? Does it mean the 11th stitch from the marker also gets knitted? Or does it mean 11 stitches are free of knitting from the marker?
Hello Precious,
Thank you for reaching out! Great question, it means that you will have 11 stitches un-knit between the stitch you just knit and your marker.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have a visible line at the end of my rows. I suspect a jog from knitting row to purling row; it looks as if I have seamed the back. Any suggestions?
Hello Diana,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, it sounds like you accidentally have two purl rows in a row or two knit rows in a row this would disrupt your garter stitch pattern and give you a line. If this line is bothering you, unfortunately the only way to eliminate the line is to go back and fix it.
I hope this is helpful and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi! I’m having such trouble setting this up for child’s size. I have 76 stitches. And the first 3 stitch markers of the set up ear flap part are in place, but for the last one I can only knit 14 stitches before landing back at the BOR marker. Please help me understand where I’ve gone wrong. Thank you so much!
Hello Heather,
Thank you for reaching out! When setting up you round your markers should be placed as follows; Beginning of the round marker – 4 stitches – 1st marker – 20 stitches – 2nd marker – 28 stitches – 3rd marker – 20 stitches – 4th marker – 4 stitches- back to the beginning of the round marker.
I would just double check you cast on and double check your marker placements and I’m sure you will figure out what is amiss!
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
This is my first time knitting the wst to make ear flaps. I think I did pretty ok except my ear flaps look like little bubbles. Will they flatten out once I complete the infant hat? Thank you! The pattern is so cute – I’m sure my next go will be even better.
Hello Hannah,
Thank you for reaching out! How extreme are the bubbles? This sounds like it will be fine, as you knit the body of the hat your earflaps will form into the dome shape of your hat. In the photo under “SHAPE RIGHT EAR FLAP” you can see a slight bubbling of the earflaps.
I hope this is helpful and let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
Can you use Posy to make this hat? I’m thinking of making one to go with the vintage taxi booties and would like the colors to match!
Thanks!
Hi Liadin,
Thanks for reaching out! As always, I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch to make sure, but Posy should work out wonderfully in this pattern as long as you hold it doubled!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how your finished hat and booties set turns out!
Julianna
Hi- can you suggest a washable yarn for this hat? Something in cotton? Thanks so much!
Hi Ali,
Thanks for writing in! Blue Sky Worsted Cotton would be a lovely easy care yarn to use for this hat! Although the official washing instructions for this yarn are the hand wash and lay flat to dry, we have had great success machine washing it in a gentle cool cycle and drying on cool as well.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
What yarn would you recommend that you currently stock? Is mulberry merino a good option?
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately Mulberry Merino would be too light weight for this hat, which is written for an aran or worsted weight yarn. I would suggest using Worsted Twist or Cashmere Tend instead!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
I’m French and I’ll try to explain troubles I’ve meet …
As some others I mistook around decreases. I reed comments and yours answers, so I’m going to knit again this part of pattern and I hope I win…
Thanks a lot for this very cute free pattern !
Hi,
A question regarding the crown area decreases – it says to knit to one stitch before marked stitch, then do sskp – does this mean that one of the 2 stitches I’ll be slipping together will be the singular knit stitch from the previous row? I’m confused as to whether that knit stitch is supposed to line up with all of the sskp/other knit stitches to come (in which case, on each decrease row, I’d always be slipping the 2 stitches before the knit stitch/sskp stitch, no?)
Thanks,
Jonathan
PS in the latter decrease rows, do we decrease past the end of row/join in the round marker, since we end up decreasing a total of 14 stitches, and the first marker is less than 14 stitches from the beginning of the row?
Hi Jonathan,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, it sounds like you have it, the marked stitch will be one of the two slipped stitches in the S2KP. Since S2KP is a centered double decrease, it will turn out centered on the existing column of knit stitches if you work it as directed. There aren’t any decreases worked at the beginning of round marker, so although the first marker is only 7 stitches from the beginning of round marker, it is 14 stitches away from the last decrease marker, so the beginning of round marker won’t be affected.
I hope that clears things up, and please let us know if you run into any other questions!
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
It does – thanks! Appreciate the help : ).
Jonathan
I have a similar question, except I think I’m getting confused by where to “mark.” Should the stitch marker be before or after the knit stitch? I was confused by “mark the stitch before.” Similarly, will the knit stitch be the first or second stitch in the s2kp?
Thanks!
Hello Ashley,
Thanks for reaching out! When the pattern says to move stitch marker to the s2kp, you are placing the removable stitch marker on the stitch itself, rather than between two stitches.
I hope this clears things up, but let us know if you have any questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Love this hat! My concern with the hat… Is unsupposed to be loose fitting. Made according to head measurement, but seems very loose. I’m a tight knitter. I did use 8 and 7 size needles using baby alpaca\ merino wool yarn. Any comments?
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for reaching out! This hat should fit fairly snugly. If you are going by the finished measurements given in the pattern, keep in mind that hats should fit with 2 to 4 inches of negative ease, so you should select a finished measurement that is a few inches smaller than the head of the recipient. Also, everyone knits a little differently, so I would recommend checking your gauge to make sure you are matching our gauge of 4 1/4 stitches and 8 rows to 1 inch in garter stitch.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi
Thank you so much for your input. You have answered my concern with pleasure. I did start the adult medium..realizing it was too large. Happily made the adult small. Which is perfect.
Best regards
Laurie
Thank you for your instruction. Thanks to it, I made 2 red ones for my close friend’s children for the coming Xmas. They love them so much!
Thanks again!
Regards
Hello Thu,
I’m so happy to hear how much you enjoyed this pattern!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi
I am knitting the “kid” size hat and am on the “shape crown” section. The instructions are: P9, K1 PM, P18, K1, pPM 3x. With 76 stitches, I can only complete this section 2 times with 18 stitches remaining.
Help! Thanks. It’s an adorable pattern.
Hi Deirdre,
Thanks for reaching out! When working this row, you will only be repeating the section in the brackets. So, when working the row, which in full reads, “P9, k1, mark previous stitch, [p18, k1, mark previous stitch] three times, purl to end of round,” you will purl 9 stitches and knit 1 once, then purl 18 and knit 1 three times, then purl to the end of the round. That should turn out to 76 stitches!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Many thanks for the clarification Julianna!
I am knitting the adult S size. I did four decreases for the crown of the hat so far and just noticed that the two decreases ( the two lines of knit stitches that go up) in the front are not centered. I also noticed that they are not the two stitches that are farther apart, but instead the ones that are closer together. I have no idea what I did wrong? Would you be able to help?
Hello Christine,
Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like your beginning of the the round marker might be placed incorrectly. Or your markers were just placed incorrectly when you did your set-up round. “P10, k1, mark previous stitch, [p20, k1, mark previous stitch] three times, purl to end of round.” Is it possible that you did not complete the bracketed section three times? I would do a count to see how many stitches you have between each marker, this will help to figure out what went wrong.
I hope I can help and happy knitting!
-Marilla
About how many yards for the baby size? Am using the cashmere tend — which has fewer yard than the alpaca pure had…but not sure the difference.
Thanks!
Hi Rebecca,
Great question! We used about 55 yards for the baby size, so you should have plenty with one skein of Cashmere Tend!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m working step 1 of the left ear flap. I’m doing the toddler size so I’ve knit until I have 8 stitches between where I am and the next marker. I wrapped and turned but now I’m in the purl position. Now what do I do? Do I purl back to the first marker and then turn and knit until I get back to 8 before the second marker? Or back to the beginning? Or something else? I’m very confused at the next step I’m supposed to take because the next step says knit until 8 before the next marker which makes no sense (that would be the 1st marker and would only allow me to knit 2 stitches)… Help please!
Hi Katy,
Thanks for reaching out! That is actually correct! The short rows for these ear flaps start out very short indeed – only two stitches for the first one – and will then get longer by one stitch each time you turn.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi! Why does it look like the right flap on the baby hat is worked in stockinette stitch instead of garter stitch in the photos? I’m probably just missing something, so I want to understand before I cast on. Thank you!
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for reaching out! I also see what you are seeing on the right ear flap of the baby sized hat, but I believe it’s just an optical illusion! The hat starts with two rows of stockinette which usually rolls up, but it looks like it is visible in a few of the pictures. I assure you that, following the pattern as written, your ear flaps will turn out in garter stitch!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I’m sure this question has been asked before and I have tried to get it answered elsewhere before bothering you but alas no luck so here I am. I’m at the first ear flap and the first wrap & turn. I’m so confused. You do the wrap & turn, after the turn you’re actually going to be working the inside of the hat correct? So you would be knitting for garter stitch, but the yarn is in the purl position. Am I overthinking this? Probably. If you could help me out I would really appreciate it. Thank you so much!!
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct, your yarn will be in the front of the work after you turn to the wrong side – you will simply need to move it to the back of the work by passing it between the needles, just as you would when switching between a purl and knit stitch, so you are ready to knit the next row!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I love this little hat. I tried it for the first time this week making the baby size. After 3 attempts I got my kinks worked out except one.
It says to work the body until until piece measures 4 inches from the rolled edge at the center of an Ear Flap, which I did. However it seems like too much space before the decrease. Should it really be 4 inches? The photos don’t look as if they’re done this way. Thanks so much for posting your patterns and instructions!
Hi Rosalyn,
Thanks for reaching out! Because the hat continues into a long point, this is correct! The four inches includes the length of the ear flap, so the body of the hat measured at the center back marker should be only about 2.5-3 inches long.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
What yarn can be substituted? Appears that this Alpaca is no longer available? Thanks
Hello Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! Worsted Twist or Cashmere Tend, would both be beautiful substitutes for this project.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Can this hat be made with a bulky weight yarn?
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have instructions for knitting this hat in a bulky weight yarn, but I will certainly pass your suggestion along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
What a cute hat! Thank you for such a great pattern! I was in a bit over my head since I’ve never done short rows or s2kp, but your video tutorials and insanely patient problem solving in the comments section got me through it.
Hi Elena,
Thank you so much! We are so delighted to hear that and glad that our tutorials have helped you get through this pattern sucessfully!
Best,
Cassy
I’ve loved knitting this hat but have clearly got the decreasing wrong.
When you say knit to marked stitch does that include the marked stitch?
Many thanks for a lovely pattern.
Hi Jane,
Thanks so much for the kind words! For this pattern, you will need to use removable stitch markers and place them on the actual stitch indicated instead of on the needle. When knitting to the marked stitch, you will stop right when you get to the stitch that has the marker on it.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello,
I am knitting the Toddler hat. Can you explain the directions?
I know I need to use a removable stitch marker. What does P 8, K1, “MARK PREVIOUS STITCH” mean?
So I Purl 8, then I knit 1, then do I” MARK THE KNIT 1 STITCH WITH A REMOVABLE STITCH MARKER’, OR IS IT THE STITCH RIGHT AFTER THE KNIT 1?
Set-Up Round: P7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12), k1, mark previous stitch, [p14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24), k1, mark previous stitch] three times, purl to end of round.
Thanks so much,
Sandra
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for reaching out! When the pattern has you mark the previous stitch, you will place the removable marker in the last stitch that you just knitted, which will be the knit stitches in this round.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thank you for the pattern.
I just knitted 2 hats for my daughter that has twin boys!
They turned out so cute! Will be knitting more of these.
Thanks so much~
Hi there! I’m hoping to get away with using 16 in circular needles as I don’t own 12 in. Has anyone tried and had luck with this? I’m willing to have a little stretch and switch to double pointed needles early. Thanks for your thoughts!
Hi Mariel,
The 12″ circumference needle is only used for the baby size version of the hat. If you already have the double points, it might be easiest to just use them from beginning to end of the project. You can also experiment and see if you can stretch the 14″ circumference over the 16″ circular – it’s definitely worth a try!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
I’m confused I think round one decrease ending w 52 sts for baby size then round 2 u purl doing decreases? Round 3 knit doing decreases or just straight knit
Hi Joan,
Thank you for writing in! I’m not sure which section of the pattern you are referring to- would you be able to clarify? In the Shape Crown section, you’ll be working decreases on Round 1, followed by Rounds 2, 3, and 4, according to the pattern, and repeating these 1-4 five more times. Let me know if this is helpful!
Best,
Gaby
Ok! So about 50xs later, I just do not understand the left ear wrap turn!!! I am left handed but generally follow right handed patterns. I have tried every which way to wrap and turn. I understand the directions, watched the tutorial, but the stitches end up backwards. Maybe I am supposed to start knitting on the wrong side, as opposed to the right side, to the 11 stitches from 2nd marker, and THEN wrpt??? I just tried that but it doesn’t
Hi Lulu,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m sorry to hear that you are having so much trouble getting started! Keep in mind that the ear flap is be in garter stitch, so if you find that you are knitting on the wrong side of the hat, that is correct. I’m not sure what else could be the problem, so if that doesn’t answer your question, please feel free to send a picture of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com and we’ll be happy to take a look!
Best,
Julianna
Love this pattern! I’ve had fun doing two different sizes. It looks so strange off my head and is so very comfy on. I will be making more for special people….!
Thanks for this pattern!
How would this work with the surpentina?
Thanks, Stephanie
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! Although you will need to knit a gauge swatch to make sure, I think Serpentina would be a wonderful alternative for this hat!
Best,
Julianna