Garter Ear Flap Hat
This Garter Ear Flap Hat was an engineering feat to get me back on my feet. You see, I didn’t exactly have that quintessential fresh-start feeling that so often comes with the New Year. Instead, I spent January 1st in bed with the flu and its attendant fever, aches, chills, and delirium. Just as the worst was passing, Mother Nature blasted us with a Polar Vortex that I did not have the strength nor will to face.
Cabin fever set in! Groggy from illness and stir-crazed from quarantine, I was determined to prove my health (and sanity), and so, making this hat became a triumphant product of my bruised spirit. I created this hat that simultaneously hangs on and hugs my head, which provides protection and insulation from a season that had been beating me down.
Still enamored with the ease of working short rows in garter stitch (as with my Knit Elbow Patches), I constructed this hat in one seamless piece using Purl Soho’s soft and lush Alpaca Pure. The more I knit with this incredibly comforting yarn, the better I felt. And the topper made it official. Slightly pointed with a tiny tassel, the finish delivered cheer and whimsy. I was back to my healthy self!
With my head toasty warm and back in full heath, that fresh-start feeling did arrive… just a little late this year. A belated Happy New Year to all! May it be a healthy one. -Laura
Materials
- 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure, 100% alpaca. I used the colors Heirloom White (Artemisia, Storm Gray) for the Baby (Kid, Adult Medium) hat.
- US 8, 12-inch (for Baby size) or 16-inch circular needle
- US 7, 12-inch (for Baby size) or 16-inch circular needle
- Set of US 7 double pointed needles
- 4 removable stitch markers
- 1 stitch markers of a different color to indicate end-of-round
Gauge
4 1/4 stitches and 8 rows = 1 inch in garter stitch with smaller needle
Sizes
Baby (Toddler, Kid, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large)
- Finished Circumference: 14 (16, 17 3/4, 19 3/4, 21 3/4, 23 1/2) inches
- Finished Height: 7 1/4 (8, 9, 10, 11 1/2, 12 3/4) inches, from bottom of ear flap to top of hat, not including tassel
Notes
The Right and Left Ear Flaps are shaped using short rows. For our complete Short Rows Tutorial, please click here. NOTE: Because the short rows are worked in garter stitch in this pattern, you do not have to pick up the wraps; simply ignore the wraps when you come to them and work the wrapped stitch normally.
wrp-t [wrap and turn]: keeping the yarn in back, slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. Bring the yarn forward as if to purl. Return the stitch from the right needle back to the left needle. Turn the work.
s2kp [slip slip knit pass]: Slip two stitches together knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off needle. (2 stitches decreased)
Pattern
Begin
With larger needle, cast on 60 (68, 76, 84, 92, 100) stitches.
Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Knit 2 rounds.
Change to smaller needles.
Next round: Knit 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 6) stitches, place marker (pm), knit 16 (18, 20, 23, 25, 27) stitches for Left Ear Flap, pm, knit 22 (24, 28, 30, 32, 34) stitches for Front, pm, knit 16 (18, 20, 23, 25, 27) stitches for Right Ear Flap, pm, knit to end.
Shape Left Ear Flap
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will be working in Short Rows, back and forth, turning the work part way through each round, rather than continuing to the end of the needle. For a tutorial, click here.
NOTE: If a dash (” – “) appears in place of a number for your size, omit this line of instruction.
Next Row (right side): Knit to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before second marker, wrp-t.
Next Row: Knit to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, -, -, 11) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, -, 10, 10) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, 9, 9, 9) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, 8, 8, 8, 8) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (7, 7, 7, 7, 7) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows (all sizes): Knit to 6 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 5 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 4 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 2 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 1 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Shape Right Ear Flap
NOTE: For this portion of the pattern, you will once again be working in Short Rows.
NOTE: If a ” – ” appears in place of a number for your size, omit this line of instruction.
Next Row (right side): Knit to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before fourth marker, wrp-t.
Next Row: Knit to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, -, -, 11) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, -, 10, 10) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, -, 9, 9, 9) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, 8, 8, 8, 8) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to – (7, 7, 7, 7, 7) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows (all sizes): Knit to 6 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 5 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 4 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 3 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 2 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Two Rows: Knit to 1 stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
Next Row: Knit to end of round.
Work Body of Hat
Round 1: Purl (removing 4 stitch markers).
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until piece measures 4 (4 1/4, 4 3/4, 5 1/4, 6 1/4, 7) inches from the rolled edge at the center of an Ear Flap, or until approximately 3 1/4 (3 3/4, 4 1/4, 4 3/4, 5 1/4, 5 3/4) inches shy of desired finished height.
Shape Crown of Hat
NOTE: Switch to double pointed needles when necessary.
Set-Up Round: P7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12), k1, place removable marker on previous stitch, [p14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24), k1, place removable marker on previous stitch] three times, purl to end of round.
Round 1: [Knit to one stitch before next marked stitch, remove marker, s2kp (see Pattern Notes above), place removable stitch marker on the s2kp] four times, knit to end of round. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 2: [Purl to marked stitch, k1] four times, purl to end of round.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: Repeat Round 2.
Repeat Rounds 1-4 five (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) more times. [12 (12, 12, 12, 12, 12) stitches]
Next Round: Repeat Round 1. [4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) stitches]
Next Round: Knit.
Finish
Cut yarn leaving a 24-inch tail, thread onto tapestry needle and pull through remaining stitches. Make a Tiny Attached Tassel by following the instructions found here.
Weave in your ends and block as desired.
PRINT
Ever since getting past the ear flaps, I’ve been knitting with the wrong side of the hat facing me. And now that I’m decreasing, it looks like the four places of decrease are just slightly not centered with front and back of hat. Could it be that at end of last flap I didn’t knit to end of row and went wrong way? I am pretty sure I’m doing the decreases correctly, especially after reading others’ comments. The decreases are set in, rather than raised, on the right side. Thank you.
Hi Christy,
Thanks for reaching out! Did you place your stitch markers in the correct places? That is the most important step of getting correctly spaced decreases, in the set up round prior to the crown shaping you should P7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12), k1, place removable marker on previous stitch, [P14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24), k1, place removable marker on previous stitch] three times, purl to end of round. This will then tell you exactly where all of the decreases should be going forward!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
When working the crown decreases, on the garter rounds do you knit the stitch with the marker or the stitch right after it?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! For the decrease round you will be knitting to one stitch before next marked stitch, remove marker, s2kp (see Pattern Notes), and then replace the removable stitch marker on the s2kp. You will repeat that four times and knit to end of round!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
Just finished garter ear flap hat and my suspicions were correct. All the decreases slant to the left in a gradual curve to the top, instead of diagonally “straight”. I was so careful to do the decreases exactly on the s2kp. What could be wrong? I started the whole hat over so many times and got all the other issues figured out. Each time I began the 4-row repeat for the decrease, the decrease is one step to the left of last 4-row decrease, giving a staggered look. Should I not have done the s2kp stitch starting right on the marked knit stitch from row before? Thanks.
Hi Christy,
Thanks for writing in again! I am not sure what could be causing the issues with the decreases, please email us a photo of your work to our team at customerservice@purlsoho.com and they can trouble shoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
I am having the same issue. I have tried slipping the marked stitch with the stitch before it and with the stitch after it which. Either way my line seems to be staggered. Now I wonder of I’m knitting the wrong stitch in the garter row?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! It is likely that your stitch marker is in the wrong place, I would double check that you have accurately placed all of your markers prior to beginning the crown shaping (For this hat, you have to use a removable stitch marker and place it directly in the stitch indicated, not on the needle, so that the decreases stack correctly. This is what happens if you place your stitch marker on the needle instead.)
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gianna
Explication en français svp
Hi Oehler,
Thanks for writing in! At this time we only offer patterns in english, but thank you for expressing your interest!
Warmly,
Gianna
HI there, I see you don’t sell the Alpaca pure, what yarn substitution would you recommend?
Hi Ali,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, Alpaca Pure has been discontinued but in its place you could use Worsted Twist or Linen Quill Worsted!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi – I have made several of these in kid sizes. Just tried an adult size. Cast on 84 sts as directed, ear flaps went fine. Then to start the decreases, it says K 10, pm, K20, pm, K20, pm, k20 pm, K10. This only equals 80 sts. What am I missing here? Thanks for your help! I love the pattern design!
Shelley
Hi Shelley,
Thanks for writing in! Going into the decreases, for the set up round for the adult small you should be P10, k1, place removable marker on previous stitch, [P20, k1, place removable marker on previous stitch] three times, purl to end of round. So for example after you purl 10, you knit one stitch and that is where you place the marker and you do the same with the rest of the placement!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
I can’t believe that I am writing this, because I used to do short rows for heels in socks, but I have been away from knitting for a bit and I am stumped. After I wrap and turn for the earflap , how far do I knit across before I wrap and turn again? Am I knitting to the marker? I know it’s not the whole row, but how far across?
Hi Marsha,
Thanks for reaching out! Depending on the size you are working on, for the first row in the shaping section for example (right side): Knit to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before your second marker, wrp-t. then for the next row Knit to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before next marker, wrp-t. If a dash (” – “) appears in place of a number for your size, omit this line of instruction and continue on.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
When measuring from the rolled edge, did you flatten it out or leave it rolled?
Hi Hope,
Thanks for reaching out! When measuring from the rolled edge we leave it rolled not flattened!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Beautiful pattern, but once you get to the ear flaps what do the dashes mean in the size selection? Example “Knit to – (-, -, -, -, 11)”
As the pattern continues the number denominations continue to change..say I wanted to do a kids size, what would I knit in place of these blank dashes?
Hi Shaun,
Thanks for reaching out! If a dash (” – “) appears in place of a number for your size, omit this line of instruction and move on to the next line where there are instructions for the size you are making! For example, the kid size after working the first two rows of the shaping section you would skip the next 3 rows where the dash appears and continue on to the Next Two Rows: Knit to – (-, 8, 8, 8, 8) stitches before next marker, wrp-t.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, I’m interested in making this hat but notice that it’s made in the round on a circular needle. If all the stitches are knit, how are you getting a garter stitch. Nobody else seems to ask this question so it must be something I’m missing. Please let me know soon since I’m ready to begin. It’s a really cute hat!
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! To get the garter stitch in the round you are purling one row and knitting the next except in the shape ear flap rows since you are working short row and flipping the fabric over, you knit both sides as usual for garter.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
When I do it this way I get the return short row out of stitch (aka purled) also. With the turn, shouldn’t the return stitches maintain stockinette?
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, as I explained previously when working the short rows you are knitting every row to maintain the garter stitch since you are working over both sides of the fabric. Once you move onto the WORK BODY OF HAT section you will then be knitting one row and purling the next to maintain the garter stitch since for this section you are only working over the right side of the fabric instead of both sides as you were while working the short rows.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, I am confused with the wrap and turn. When you wrap and turn after knitting, the yarn is in place to purl but every row is knitting. How do I get the tail in the back to knit without unwrapping the stitch?
Jill
Hi Jill,
Thanks for reaching out! When working wrap and turn ins garter it is very easy, to see this technique in action, visit our Short Row Tutorial and follow along with the wrap and turn on the knit side section (at 0:30 seconds), except do not bring the yarn to the back before you turn, this will insure that when you turn the work the yarn will be ready for you to continue knitting!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m having the same problem as Barbara and Christy! Is the marker placed on the knit stitch or on the (previous) stitch before the knit stitch to begin with? It might help me to know the number of the stitch on which to place the marker (ie. the 7th stitch from the beginning of the round and then maybe the stitch number for each successive section and round? (at least for the first couple of rounds which include the decreases). I have torn this out several times as well. Each time I start over I’m careful to move the marker, but get the leftward slant rather than vertical /diagonal decrease. I spoke with a friend who did this pattern andit took her a long time to figure out, as well. Unfortunately, she can’t remember how she did it.
Is there a chance you’ve done a video for this kind of decrease?
Thank you!
Cyd
Hi Cyd,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help get this figured out! For the set up round you should be P7, then you k1, and place a removable marker on previous stitch (On the knit stitch directly after you have P7) making sure you are placing the marker on the stitch itself and not on the needles! We have a tutorial for the decrease you can follow here: Slip Slip Knit Pass (s2kp).
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello, I love this pattern but just need some clarification – when it says ‘measure from the rolled edge on an ear flap’, does that mean measure from the rolled part that is rolled up inwards towards the hat, or the part that makes up the actual edge of the hat (in place of the cast on edge that is hidden inside)? I hope that makes sense. Thanks, Jules
Hi Jules,
Thanks for reaching out! When we say “measure from the rolled edge on an ear flap” it means to measure from the rolled edge as is, not to unroll and measure from the original cast on edge.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
Loved this pattern, made 2 baby versions and then one for mom, dad and his two big sisters. Knitted very smoothly. Thanks. Look forward to looking into other patterns available here.
I’ve knit this twice but does not end up looking like garter stitch, what on earth could I be doing wrong please looks as should on ears then goes awfully wrong
Thanks
Hi Vicky,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sorry to hear that! Feel free to send us some photos of your work to our email customerservice@purlsoho.com and we can troubleshoot further from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there, this is a lovely pattern but I seem to have made a little mistake and am not sure how to fix it.
Just to confirm, after finishing the left ear flap, we knit toward the center and past the end of round stitch market, then to 7 stitches before next marker (in stitch)?
What I am getting is an extra knit row just above right ear flap, in the same round as the gap from the wrap (just before i start the body of the hat).
I hope this makes sense. I woke up thinking about this and it’s 2:30am, haha!
Hi Abi,
Thanks for reaching out! After you complete the shaping for the left ear flap you will then knit across to 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches before fourth marker, and then wrp-t. So you will be working over the end of round marker to the 4th marker that you placed, you will then begin shaping the right ear flap!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Great pattern. No problems at all. Thanks fo r sharing
It’s my first time working in the round, so when I changed to DPN,s my work started to be in stockinette, is there a way to rectify this please 🙏🏻
Hi Vicky,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like when you switched needles you got off pattern and began knitting every row, in order to maintain the garter stitch when working in the round you will be knitting one row and purling the next as we instruct in the pattern! Unfortunately the best way to fix this would be to take out your knitting to the point the stockinette started and then you can continue working in garter! Just be sure to pay extra attention to the written pattern so that you can maintain the garter stitch!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Can I ask please, when finishing the last wrap and turn for the right ear flap should I end up and carry on working on the wrong side? Thanks
Hi Vicky,
Thanks for reaching out! You will finish the the short rows on the right side so that you can continue working in the round for the body and crown of the hat!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi,
I am having an issue with the number of stitches when starting the decrease relative to what the pattern calls for.
I cast on 60 stitches
The pattern at the set-up round for the decreases calls for the following
P7, K1, P14, K1 x 3 = 69 stichtes ( not 60)
What am I missing?
Hi Katja,
Thanks for reaching out! For the set up round you will be P7, k1, place removable marker on the previous stitch, then you will [p14, k1, place removable marker on previous stitch] three times (just repeating what is in the bracket) then purl to end of round. so 7+1, then 14+1×3= 45. So if you take 45 plus the 8 stitches from the beginning you get 53, leaving you with 7 stitches after placing the markers to purl across till you reach the end of round marker! 60 stitches total!
I hope this clears things up!
warmly,
Gianna
I’m confused on the gauge. Is 4 and 1/4 sts and 8 rows? How do you count a 1/4 stitch?
Hi Heather,
Thanks for reaching out! I know this is a tricky gauge measurement! Essentially, for an accurate gauge measurement, you will want to make sure above all that you have 4 stitches for 1″. The 1/4 measurement basically is just a small portion of the 5th stitch after the 4 for the 1″, it will be not be quite to the center of the stitch but will be half of the first leg of the stitch!
If you would like to have a more accurate measurement you can calculate the stitches for 4″ rather than 1″. For that, your gauge should measure 17 stitches for 4″ (4.25 x 4)
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I love this pattern as it’s one of the very few baby/child size that I’ve found that covers ears and actually stays in place! Thank you!
Thank you very much for this pattern. I love it and have made several now. Do you have any hints to get the decrease stitches to line up nice and neatly? Mine always seem wonky.
If I decrease every other row they look fine but doing the pattern as written, decreasing every 4 rows makes them appear uneven looking.
Thank you!
Hi Lori,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest following the decreases as written in the pattern to ensure you have the correct amount of rows (and the accurate height!) My best tip is to make sure that you are using the removable stitch marker and that you have it marked on the stitch rather than on the needle. This will ensure that you are working the decrease at the correct stitch each time. Also blocking the hat once you have finished will give you the chance to re-distribute the stitches and make sure everything is tidy and even. I would suggest checking out our Blocking tutorial, it is an excellent resource to use!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna