Classic Ribbed Hat In New Colors + Styles
A combination of its simplicity, practicality, and of course, beauty, has made our Classic Ribbed Hat in Cashmere Merino Bloom a favorite for years.
Its reputation was built on a one-color design, but a variation on a classic is always welcome, and so, we’ve branched out with four new design options: thick or thin stripes and two or three colorblocks. And still sized for babies, kids, and grownups large and small, everyone gets just what they want!
You knit this hat in an easy 1×1 rib (that means, knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch, and repeat!). This kind of ribbing is quintessential for a watchman-style hat because the fabric naturally contracts, keeping your hat firmly on your head. It also creates a deep and lofty texture, which traps air and keeps your head insulated, too!
You work the 1×1 rib for long enough that you’ll have a generous folded cuff, if you want one, and then you shape the crown with regularly spaced knit-2-together decreases, which create a lovely spiral detail.
Something else that makes this hat so special? Our over-the-top gorgeous Cashmere Merino Bloom. Twenty-five percent of this yarn is the softest Mongolian cashmere you can imagine, enough that you really feel its incredible softness and wonderful warmth and enough that you see a delicate halo bloom around your hat.
The other 75% of Cashmere Merino Bloom is extra fine merino… Also very soft but with the characteristics of wool: sproingy-ness to help the hat keep its shape and durability so it has a nice, long life.
You only need one skein for a solid hat in any size, except the largest, which requires two, so dive into our palette of over twenty gorgeous colors. If stripes or colorblocks are calling to you, we also have two-skein Classic Ribbed Hat Bundles for ready-to-go color combinations!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Update: Now A Staff Pick
September 2024
Simple, practical, and beautiful, our Classic Ribbed Hat in Cashmere Merino Bloom is a customer favorite and now it’s also a Staff Pick! Meet some of the team and hear about how they made this pattern their own…
Aly P., our eCommerce Coordinator + Marketing Analyst, made her single-color Classic Ribbed Hat in a classic dark blue… Truly a staple! For a clever take, our Customer Service Technical Specialist, Lili T., knit a two-tone version using basic intarsia. Gaby B., our Design Manager of Operations + Junior Editor, made adorable big and little versions that are perfect for gifting. Warehouse Specialist Lili H. made a cool colorblock hat with a super classic look, while another amazing Warehouse Specialist, Morgan W., made the stunning Red Poppy hat, a super pop for any day!
You can also find more inspiration by browsing our Classic Ribbed Hat Knit-Along and watching our Classic Ribbed Hat Zoom + Knits, where you’ll learn every technique along the way and see tons more beautiful hats, too!
Get in on the action by making this free knitting pattern and casting on with Cashmere Merino Bloom! Will your hat be solid, striped, or color blocked?
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% extra fine merino and 25% cashmere. Each skein of this Light Worsted/DK yarn is 218 yards/ 100 grams.
- Solid Color Version
- Color A: 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) skein(s); approximately 110 (140, 180, 215, 260) yards required.
For our Baby samples, we used Vintage Jade, Wheat Flour, and True Turquoise; for Kid samples, we used Hydrangea Blossom, Fresh Fig, and Warm Honey; for Adult Small, we used Crocus Bud and Golden Green; for Adult Medium, we used Red Poppy and Conch Shell; and for Adult Large, we used Night Blue.
- Thin Stripe Version
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 55 (70, 95, 110, 135) yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 55 (70, 95, 110, 135) yards required
For an Adult Small sample, we used Red Poppy and Heirloom White.
- Thick Stripe Version
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 65 (85, 115, 130, 160) yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 60 (75, 100, 120, 145) yards required
For another Adult Small sample, we used Rosebud Pink and Icicle Blue.
- Two Colorblocks Version
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 90 (110, 145, 175, 210) yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 20 (30, 35, 45, 50) yards required
For an Adult Medium sample, we used High Tide and Hydrangea Blossom.
- Three Colorblocks Version
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 70 (90, 115, 140, 165) yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 40 (50, 65, 75, 90) yards required
For another Adult Medium sample, we used Night Blue and Reed Gray.
You’ll also need . . .
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 16-inch circular knitting needles, for Adult sizes only
- A set of US 3 double pointed needles OR US 3, 32-inch circular needles for Magic Loop
- Stitch markers, including 1 unique
Another option is to pick up a Classic Ribbed Hat Bundle (no longer available)! It includes 2 skeins of Cashmere Merino Bloom in two different colors. One bundle makes 1-3 Classic Ribbed Hats, depending on the size and style (see yardage recommendations above to make your calculations!). Choose from 11 pretty pairs…
TOP ROW: Red Poppy + Heirloom White, Crocus Bud + Red Mulberry, Fresh Fig + Tide Pool
MIDDLE ROW: Rosebud Pink + Icicle Blue, Conch Shell + Warm Honey, Fresh Pickle + Golden Green
BOTTOM ROW: Vintage Jade + Dove Gray, Wheat Flour + True Turquoise, High Tide + Hydrangea Blossom
NOT PICTURED: Night Blue + Reed Gray, Charcoal Onyx + Heirloom White
GAUGE
32 stitches and 33 rounds = 4 inches in 1×1 rib, unstretched
SIZES
Baby (Kid, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large)
- Finished Circumference (unstretched): 10½ (12, 13½, 15, 16½) inches, comfortably stretching to approximately 13–16 (15–18, 17–20, 19–23, 21–25) inches
- Finished Height (uncuffed): Approximately 7¾ (9, 10¼, 11¼, 12¼) inches (Striped versions may be slightly longer than solid and colorblock versions.)
For help choosing a hat size, check out our complete guide on How to Knit the Right Hat Size!
NOTES
SWITCHING BETWEEN KNIT + PURL
For help switching between knit and purl stitches, visit our Switching Between Knit + Purl Tutorial!
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES
For tips on using double pointed needles to knit smaller sizes or for the Crown of any size hat, visit our Double Pointed Needle Tutorial!
PATTERN
Cast On: All Versions
With Color A, cast 84 (96, 108, 120, 132) stitches onto double pointed or circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Continue on with the instructions for the version you are making.
Body: Choose A Version
SOLID COLOR VERSION
Round 1: With Color A, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 6¼ (7, 7¾, 8¼, 8¾) inches from cast-on edge.
Go on to Crown section, below.
THIN STRIPE VERSION
NOTE: For this version, be sure to carry non-working yarn up inside of hat when changing colors. For help, please visit our Stripes In The Round Tutorial.
Rounds 1 and 2: With Color A, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 3 and 4: With Color B, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1–4 until piece measures approximately 6¼ (7¼, 7¾, 8¼, 8¾) inches from cast-on edge, ending with Round 4, then repeat Rounds 1–3 one more time.
Go on to Crown section, below.
THICK STRIPE VERSION
Rounds 1–8: With Color A, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Cut Color A and join Color B.
Rounds 9–16: With Color B, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Cut Color B and join Color A.
Repeat Rounds 1–16 two (2, 3, 3, 3) more times.
Baby + Adult Medium Sizes Only
Repeat Rounds 1–4 one time.
Go on to Crown section, below.
Kid + Adult Large Size Only
Repeat Rounds 1–10 one time.
Go on to Crown section, below.
Adult Small Size Only
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 one time.
Go on to Crown section, below.
TWO COLORBLOCKS VERSION
Round 1: With Color A, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 6 (6¾, 7½, 8, 8½) inches from cast-on edge.
Cut Color A and join Color B.
With Color B, repeat Round 1 two times.
Go on to Crown section, below.
THREE COLORBLOCKS VERSION
Round 1: With Color A, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 2½ (3, 3½, 3¾, 4¼) inches from cast-on edge.
Cut Color A and join Color B.
With Color B, repeat Round 1 until piece measures 6 (6¾, 7½, 8, 8½) inches from cast-on edge.
Cut Color B and join Color A.
With Color A, repeat Round 1 two times.
Go on to Crown section, below.
Crown: All Versions
NOTE: If using circular needles, change to double pointed needles when necessary (see Notes). And, for Thin Stripe and Thick Stripe Versions, be sure to continue working stripes in pattern, and do not change colors for the final round.
Continuing with current working yarn . . .
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round marker, k1, replace marker for new end of round, *[p1, k1] 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) times, pm (place marker), repeat from * to end of round, omitting final stitch marker. [6 stitch markers placed, including unique end-of-round marker]
KID, ADULT SMALL, ADULT MEDIUM + ADULT LARGE SIZES ONLY
Round 1: [*P1, k1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog)] 6 times. [6 stitches decreased]
Round 2: [*P1, k1, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1] 6 times.
Round 3: [*P1, k1, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2tog] 6 times. [6 stitches decreased]
Round 4: *P1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1–4 – (0, 1, 2, 3) more time(s). [84 stitches remain]
ALL SIZES
Next Round: [*P1, k1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog)] 6 times. [6 stitches decreased]
Next Round: [*P1, k1, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2tog] 6 times. [6 stitches decreased]
Repeat last 2 rounds four more times. [24 stitches remain]
Next Round: *P1, k1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. [18 stitches remain]
Next Round: *P1, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round. [12 stitches remain]
Next Round: *K2tog, repeat from * to end of round. [6 stitches remain]
Cut yarn and thread tail onto a tapestry needle. Thread tail through remaining stitches. Pull taut and bring tail to inside of hat to weave in.
Finishing
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
Learn About Cashmere Merino Bloom + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Soft, supple, and toasty warm, Cashmere Merino Bloom is an absolute knitting joy! A light worsted/DK-weight yarn, it is made with 25% of the most exquisite cashmere in the world and 75% extra fine merino wool and benefits from both fibers: cashmere for over-the-top softness and beautiful bloom and merino for resilience, durability, and even more softness. Cashmere Merino Bloom has an incredible hand feel with a gentle halo that illuminates your knitting… A gorgeous choice!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Cashmere Merino Bloom patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/ DK Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns (What does DK-weight yarn mean, really? Our guide to DK yarn will answer your questions and demystify.)
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cashmere yarn (What makes cashmere so special? Learn all about this amazing fiber in our guide to cashmere yarn!)
- Shop merino wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
The join for working in the round link is not working – gives a page not found.
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks so much for alerting us to the broken link! We’ll get that fixed as soon as possible, and in the meantime, you can access the tutorial here.
All the best,
Lili
Would the Knitting Yarn be an OK substitute for the Cashmere Merino Bloom?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! Knitting Yarn is a perfect substitute for Cashmere Merino Bloom since they’re both DK weight yarns and have similar fiber properties. As always though, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
If you wanted to knit this using larger needles… does that change how you shape the crown?
Hi Rey,
Thanks for reaching out! If you’re knitting this pattern with larger needles, it’s likely that your gauge will be larger, so you’ll need to cast on fewer stitches so that the hat comes to the correct size.
To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the finished circumference of your size and cast on the nearest multiple of 12 stitches. Then you can follow the pattern essentially as written!
The only place you’d need to do something differently is the beginning of the CROWN, as you mentioned. Here’s how to work Set-Up Round of CROWN with any multiple of 12 stitch count:
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round marker, k1, replace marker for new end-of-round, *[p1, k1] (cast-on / 12) times, pm (place marker), repeat from * to end of round, omitting final stitch marker which is end-of-round marker. [6 stitch markers placed, including unique end-of-round marker]
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can you advise on sizing for this pattern? Is it worth buying into an extra skein of yarn to make the large size?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! These hats are extremely stretchy, so most people will likely wear an Adult Small or Adult Medium. If you’d like to order an additional skein and try the Adult Large, then I wanted to let you know that we accept returns of skeins in their original condition. So if you purchase 2 skeins, I’d recommend only winding each one until you’re certain you need to use it. That way, you can return the 2nd one for store credit if you don’t end up using it!
All the best,
Lili
Can I use Plenty for this hat? I have some leftover from a cowl and want to now knit a hat. Thank you
Hi Renee,
You can definitely use Plenty for this hat, but you’ll need to adjust how many stitches you cast on so that your hat comes to the correct size! To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the circumference of the size you’re making and cast on the nearest multiple of 12. Then you can follow the pattern essentially as written!
The only place you’d need to do something differently is the beginning of the CROWN. Here’s how to work Set-Up Round of CROWN with any multiple of 12 stitch count:
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round marker, k1, replace marker for new end-of-round, *[p1, k1] (cast-on / 12) times, pm (place marker), repeat from * to end of round, omitting final stitch marker which is end-of-round marker. [6 stitch markers placed, including unique end-of-round marker]
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! Recommendation on needle size for Plenty? I know gauge is important here as well but which size to start with?
And can I also assume that if a knit a 2 color version that two skeins is sufficient ?
Also, how can I exchange a blue skein for another color in Plenty?
Thank you!
Hi Renee,
We recommend using sizes US 8, 9, or 10 for Plenty! Since your gauge will be different from the pattern gauge no matter what, you can use whichever one you like best. And yes, 2 skeins of Plenty will definitely be enough for a 2-color hat! Regarding the exchange, I’d recommend taking a look at our Return Policy page–but let me know if you have any questions about that!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!surprised to see the size needles you recommend since the pattern recommends a size 3. I actually did a small sample using size 3 with Plenty and I liked it. I will do the same with the bigger size, but I did like the smaller ones. Would that make sense? Thanks for your patience. I am still a bit of a beginner knitter so this is all new to me!
Hi Renee,
Oh wow, I’m surprised to hear that you like knitting with Plenty on size 3 needles! Since you’re using a much thicker weight yarn for the pattern, I recommended the needle size that would go with that yarn. Because the yarn is thicker, you’ll be changing the gauge no matter what, so it doesn’t matter what needles you use, as long as you’re comfortable knitting with the yarn on them. Once you settle on what needles to use and make a gauge swatch with them, you can follow the instructions in my first comment to determine your cast-on number. Let me know if you’d like any assistance with those calculations though!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!
Hi Lily,
I have begun this project and using size 8 needles as recommended. Good so far. As I am rereading your instructions above for the crown, would I really follow the pattern as written? If I do that many rows for the crown as written in the pattern, won’t the hat be too big?
Thanks once again for your help.
Renee
Hi Renee,
Since you’ll have cast on fewer stitches, you’ll also end up working fewer rows for the Crown! Just repeat Rounds 1 – 4 until you have 84 stitches left, and then follow the rest of the pattern as written until the end!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I’m looking forward to this autumn KAL. Thank you for offering this to the knitting community.
In the pattern, you offer a link to the long tail cast-on, which opens as the tubular long tail cast-on. If I were to choose this method, would I do the two foundation rows as the first two rounds?
Thanks for your advice,
Angela
Hi Angela,
We’re so sorry about the incorrect link! It’s been fixed in the PDF now, but the older version of the PDF still has the wrong link. I’d be happy to send you a new PDF if you’d like, just let me know!
We used the normal long tail cast-on for our samples of this hat, but you can also totally use the tubular cast-on! If so, then yes, you would need to work the foundation rows after casting on.
All the best,
Lili
I’m not able to find the needle size for this hat, I bought the cashmere merino bloom?
🤷🏼♀️
Hi Wendy,
Thanks for reaching out! We used size US 3 needles to knit our samples of this hat, but we highly recommend knitting up a gauge swatch in pattern to determine what size you should use. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge! If you would like to learn more about this, we have a handy tutorial called All About Gauge, which you can find right here.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I’m sorry if this is a silly question but can you knit this hat using the magic loop technique?
Also, is the yarn needed for knitting the gauge swatch included in the estimates for length of yarn needed?
Hi Catherine,
That’s not a silly question at all, and yes, you can absolutely use the magic loop technique for this hat! It’s a great alternative to using DPNs.
In answer to your other question–sort of! The yardage we list is just the yardage for the hat, but since you can reuse your swatch yarn for the hat, it does technically include it, if that makes sense!
All the best,
Lili
I am knitting a child size of this hat. Is the circular needle size the same for all sizes.
Hi Suzanne,
Yes, you should be able to use 16-inch circulars for the Kid size, since 1 x 1 ribbing is so stretchy! If you feel like the stitches don’t quite fit around the needles though, I’d recommend switching to DPNs or magic loop for the entire hat.
All the best,
Lili
Hi would like to make this hat again but need it to be quick. I have bulky yarn but not sure how many stitches. It there a chart to help figure this out? or anther hat pattern I could follow?
Thank you
Hi Desiree,
Thanks for writing in! To figure out your cast-on number for a different weight yarn, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the circumference of the size you’re making and cast on the nearest multiple of 12. Then you can follow the pattern essentially as written!
The only place you’d need to do something differently is the beginning of the CROWN, as you mentioned. Here’s how to work Set-Up Round of CROWN with any multiple of 12 stitch count:
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round marker, k1, replace marker for new end-of-round, *[p1, k1] (cast-on / 12) times, pm (place marker), repeat from * to end of round, omitting final stitch marker which is end-of-round marker. [6 stitch markers placed, including unique end-of-round marker]
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
What is the best way to join the yarn in a 1 by 1 rib using the Cashmere Merino Bloom ?
Hi Carrie,
Thanks for reaching out! We recommend just beginning with the new skein and leaving the yarn tails be for the moment. Then, once you’re done with the project, you can weave in the ends on the inside of the hat! This creates the most invisible join.
All the best,
Lili
I love this Merino Bloom. I am interested in decreasing for a more “ flat” , non pointy top of hat. Any advice as how to proceed? Thank you so much for this lovely pattern.
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for reaching out! For a flatter fitting hat, I would recommend just knitting the body to a slightly shorter length. The point at the top is really just created by the extra fabric when the hat is worn, but if the hat is worn more fitted to the top of the head, it’ll end up being much more flat!
All the best,
Lili
At what point do you switch from using circular needles to double pointed needles?
Hi Hannah,
Great question! You’ll need to switch to DPNs once your stitches feel tight or stretched out across the circulars as you work the decreases for the crown of the hat. That’ll indicate that the circumference of the stitches is smaller than that of the circular needles, so you’ll need to switch to DPNs to be able to knit around the smaller circumference. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I have a skein of the worsted Hedgerow. Could I use that for this and what would the needle size be? Thanks!
Hi Blair,
Hedgerow is a great option for this hat! We recommend using size US 6 or 7 with this yarn, but this hat is knit at a particularly tight gauge, so you could go down even further.
To figure out your cast-on number with Hedgerow, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the finished circumference of your size and cast on the nearest multiple of 12 stitches. Then you can follow the pattern essentially as written!
The only place you’d need to do something differently is the beginning of the CROWN, as you mentioned. Here’s how to work Set-Up Round of CROWN with any multiple of 12 stitch count:
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round marker, k1, replace marker for new end-of-round, *[p1, k1] (cast-on / 12) times, pm (place marker), repeat from * to end of round, omitting final stitch marker which is end-of-round marker. [6 stitch markers placed, including unique end-of-round marker]
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
How do you get the cuff to lay down so smoothly?
Hi Jodie,
Thanks for writing in! Since this hat is knit in 1 x 1 ribbing, the edge should naturally lay flat and shouldn’t curl at all. If you’re experiencing curling, would you be able to send a photo of your work to [email protected]? That way, we can better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Do you recommend knitting one entire round where you want the hat to bend for the brim?
Hi Christie,
We didn’t do that for our samples of this hat, since it would leave a ridge of purl bumps on the bottom edge of the hat. But I can totally see the benefits of a knit round, so you can absolutely give it a try for your own hat!
All the best,
Lili
I see it mentioned that you can knit this hat using magic loop instead of dpn’s. Please explain or refer me to a video for help.
Hi Deborah,
You can find our tutorial on the magic loop technique right here!
All the best,
Lili
Im just not connecting the dots on the set up round for crown. I have 120 stitches, medium size, p1 k1 10 times place marker, BUT that only brings me to half the hat. What about other half of hat? Thank you so much for your time in helping me.
Hi Siobhan,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m happy to help! You’ll actually need to repeat the “[p1, k1] 10 times, pm” instructions 6 times total over the course of this round. Each repeat of this segment covers 20 stitches, so to cover all 120, you need to repeat the whole thing a few more times. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I’m not so good to knit with DPN so I would like to knit with circular needles but I think I need short needles and a short cable, isn’t it?
What length should the cable be?
Thanks 🇮🇹
Hi Simonetta,
If you want to avoid having to use DPNs, then the best option is to use the magic loop technique! If you’re unfamiliar with magic loop, it’s a super helpful way of using circular needles to knit really small circumferences, and we have a wonderful tutorial here. You’ll need longer circular needles actually, and I recommend using 40-inch needles in particular. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
You can also use two same sized circular needles. Divide the number of stitches between the two needles and then just knit your pattern. You have to be careful that you always use the correct needle or you will end up with all the stitches on one needle. Oops! But that is easy to correct by slipping those stitches back onto the dropped off needle.
I always knit two rows before I enclose the round so that I can better see the rows and not get them twisted. The cast on thread is used to seam up.
I’m having fun knitting this pattern, but I’m not exactly sure about the length notation before I start the crown.
For the child size in a solid color it states “ repeat round one until piece measures 6 1/4 inches from the cast on edge”. Does this account for any cuff in the final piece? The picture shows a cuff so I’m a bit confused. Shall I knit beyond the 6 1/4 inch to get a cuff of a desired width?
Hi Shannon,
Thank you for reaching out! The 6 1/4 inches includes the length needed to wear the hat with the brim folded up, so you can proceed to the Crown shaping section of the pattern. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
I must be missing something. I have knit and ripped out the crown multiple times. I am using the small adult size. When doing my set up row (k1, place marker then P1, K1 for 9 stitches, however then the 10th stitch that is currently a Knit stitch would need to be purled? When I do this it looks wrong. What am I missing. Please help!
Hi TerryAnn,
Thanks for writing in! The instructions for the Set-Up Round for the CROWN actually have you repeat [p1, k1] 9 times. This means that you’ll be knitting a total of 18 stitches, since you’re repeating 2 stitches 9 times. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I want to make this hat in an adult large but without a cuff. How long should the body of the hat be in order to wear it without a cuff?
Hi Phyllis,
Thank you for writing in. For a shorter hat in the largest size, I recommend knitting the body to about 6″ before starting your decrease section. This should give you a great fit without a cuff. If you aren’t totally sure, you could also try on the hat as you go but I would stop no longer than 6″. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi,
I’m
Making this for a 2 1/2 years old girl. Her head circumference is 19” around.
I am choosing to make adult small size for her based on pattern specs. Since kid size will only stretch comfortably to 18”.
Does she have an abnormally large
Size head? Would the kid size work?
If I make adult small should I follow instructions exactly or adjust for the height?
I like a pretty thick cuff too.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Hi Natalie,
I think the Adult Small size is the perfect choice! It should fit her perfectly and allow some room for her to grow. And you can absolutely knit the hat shorter if necessary! I’d recommend having her try it on as you knit so that you can make sure it fits her, or adjust accordingly.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili!
I’m just beginning to work the crown. I don’t oh destined the difference between rounds 2 and 4. Can you clarify what round 2 is instructing please?
Round 1: [*P1, k1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before next marker, knit 2 together (k2tog)] 6 times.
[6 stitches decreased]
Round 2: [*P1, k1, repeat from * to 1 stitch before next marker, k1] 6 times.
Round 3: [*P1, k1, repeat from * to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2tog] 6 times. [6 stitches
decreased]
Round 4: *P1, k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Thank you!
Hi Robin,
Great question! The only difference here is that one round is having you decrease at the end of those marked-off sections and the next round is instructing you to work in pattern. Ultimately, for rounds 2 + 4, you are just knitting the knit stitches, and purling the purls. Please let me know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Dear Purl Soho, I love you so much, but when I print this simple hat pattern it is 34 pages long! I understand there are numerous stripe variations, but it would be so appreciated if I could just print the basic pattern with gauge, sizes, cast on and crown shaping. I did edit the PDF to only print certain pages, but that was a long and tedious process. This is such a popular pattern, think of the trees we could save by not having everyone copy 34 pages!
Hi there,
Thank you for writing in! We completely understand and agree with you! By using the Print function on the pattern, you can actually get rid of the extra information you don’t want to print!
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
You can follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%. You can also hover your mouse over any portions of the pattern you wish to delete, and click the trash can icon that appears. Then, you can click “Print” or “PDF” along the top left of the pattern preview box to print or save the pattern!
I hope this makes things a little easier but if you have any questions I would be happy to help!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I’m working the crown for adult xl. When I finish r1 and r2 of the decrease 4times each. I end up with 24 stitches on each of my 3 dpns instead of 24 total. Can you help me figure out what to do next? Thank you for sharing this gorgeous hat pattern.
Hi Melody,
Thank you for writing in! After taking a quick look at the math for this size, it seems that the first set of decrease instructions might have been missed. One way to backtrack is to identify the round right before the decreases, use scrap yarn/extra needle to pick all those stitches up, and then pull back to that round. You will want to then insert your needles to begin the decreases at the first set of instructions labeled KID, ADULT SMALL, ADULT MEDIUM + ADULT LARGE SIZES ONLY where you will knit your increases over 4 rounds. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Gavriella
I’d like to knit this hat for a friend who has a 23″ head circumference in just one color. I have one ball of the cash merino bloom and was would like to have a 4 inch brim. Should I made the medium size or the large size hat? Will I have enough yarn to make the 4 inch brim?
Hi Kay,
Thank you for your question! This hat is tremendously stretchy so you should be fine with a medium size with a 4″ brim. If you want to play it completely safe, I would recommend knitting the large size and purchasing an additional skein just in case. I would wait to wind it until you know you need more yarn. That way, if you end up not using it, you could return the unwound skein for a full refund within 30 days or if after 30 days, we could issue you a store credit. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Could you please email me this pattern? Thank you. Last minute birthday project I have to ship out. Thank you!
Hi Deb,
Thank you for writing in! You can enter your email directly into the box at the top of this pattern page and you should receive an email that says “Download your free Classic Ribbed Hat” straight away! I hope this helps but please let us know if you are running into any difficulty!
Warmly,
Gavriella
Hi! Could I possibly knit this hat using two strands of Quartz held together?
Hi Angela,
Thank you for writing in! You can definitely make this hat with two strands of Quartz. We always recommend making a gauge swatch when using alternative yarns just to be sure you can get the same gauge as the pattern. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi Gavriella,
When casting on is it standard cast on or rib cast on slip knot, p1, k1 etc?
Hi Ash,
That is a great question! Since this hat has quite a bit of stretch, we were able to use a simple Long Tail Cast On but you can absolutely use a ribbed cast on as well if you prefer. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thanks for always supporting our questions!
I’m making this hat in a cashmere worsted for my son. I’d like to do a 3-1 stripe repeat. I know he will want to fold up the brim and am noticing that the front (main side) looks a bit better than the inside.
So, when he folds up the brim, the inside (less attractive) will be showing. Can you think of a fix for this? (Reversing the knit direction somehow…?)
Also, for a 3-1 repeat, which method would you recommend to avoid stripe jogs?
Thanks so much!
Hi Jenny,
Great question–and this is something many knitters notice about their 1 x 1 ribbing! You can definitely reverse the knitting direction midway through the hat. To do so, knit the length of the brim as normal, then flip the knit fabric so that it’s inside-out. Then, just keep knitting! The working yarn will be on the wrong side for the first stitch, but that’s okay. There will also be a little gap at the end of the round where you flipped the hat, but you can cinch that up with some scrap yarn at the end of the project.
In answer to your other question, I would not recommend using any technique to avoid a jog for this hat, especially with 3-1 stripes. There aren’t very many techniques to avoid the jog for 1-round stripes, and they’ll just make everything even more complicated! We’ve found that the purled ribs in the 1 x 1 ribbing obscure the jog significantly though, so it won’t be very noticeable anyway!
All the best,
Lili
Great advice, thank you!
I’m making the adult large hat in this pattern. My questions is: since the person doesn’t want a brim rolled back on the hat, how many inches is the crown decrease portion of the hat? I have to figure out when to start the crown decreases. Thanks so much. It’s difficult to know from the photos.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thank you for writing in! For the adult size large, the decrease section will add an additional 3.5 inches of length to your hat! I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thanks so much. I appreciate it.
Hi! Is the crown the same length for all the adult sizes? I want the hat to be snug on my head with no extra poof hah. I think I’m going to knit the adult Small. My head circumference is 22”. Or should I do the medium?
Hi Lauren,
Thank you for writing in, we totally understand. Yes the crown is the same for all adult sizes and we would recommend the adult medium!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi! If I wanted to switch after the brim to stocking stitch, can I still follow the same decrease pattern for the crown but knit every stitch?
Hi Natasha,
Thank you for writing in! We wouldn’t recommend knitting stockinette stitch for the top of your hat as it would probably be quite larger due to the difference in gauge of the ribbing to stockinette. If you’d like to give it a try, I’d recommend adding in a lifeline before continuing on just to be sure you are happy with the fabric. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello- I’ve noticed the suggested needle size for the yarn you use is 5-7 US but you’re. using size 3 – just wondering why? I’m asking because I would like to knit this hat in a substitute yarn of the same weight-thanks, Robyn
Hi Robyn,
That’s a great question! Gauge can vary from knitter to knitter depending on knitting style and technique. The recommended needle size for the pattern is what was used for the sample by the designer but we always recommend doing a gauge swatch to make sure you are able to get the same gauge using your own knitting style and tension. To use an alternative yarn, I’d recommend using a light worsted/dk-weight yarn to be safe! I hope this helps!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Hi,
I want to make a kid size (co 96) Version A in Tulip Cotton. Recommended needle size is 6/7. I’m a tight knitter. Pattern recommended needle size is a 3. Before I buy #3 circular needle I’d like your input.
Also, not sure if I’m reading the pattern correctly. If I co 96 and at the crown decrease I decrease 3x with a total decrease of 18 st I’ve got 78 stitches not 84. Where ‘d I go wrong??
Thanks
Hi Lesley,
Thank you for writing in! It sounds like you may have worked an additional decrease round causing your stitch count to be 6 sts less than what you should have on your needles. I would recommend ripping back just before your last decrease round to get back on track! Although this pattern recommends a size US 3 needle, you may find that you are able to achieve gauge using a smaller or larger needle size. I recommend knitting a quick gauge swatch just to double check if you can meet the same tension as the pattern and then adjust from there. You can also check out our handy All About Gauge tutorial for a more in depth explanation on how to adjust needle sizes as needed. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi, could you give some advise on how to safely rip back rows on this pattern? Where should I be slipping the safety needles to avoid ripping back more than necessary?
Thanks!
Hi Jackson,
I would recommend putting a lifeline in if you’re worried about dropping stitches! If you’re unfamiliar with the lifeline technique, all it is is threading scrap yarn through a previous row of your work so that those stitches won’t unravel when you rip back. You would want to place the lifeline a round or two before the place you want to redo by picking up one leg of each stitch all the way around. Then you can undo the last few rounds without fear!
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I’d love to knit this on some stashed linen quill (size 3 needles). What do you think?
Hi Laura,
That’s a great idea! Since Linen Quill is a fingering weight yarn, and this pattern was designed for a DK weight yarn, I’d recommend holding two strands at once. You can make a swatch to see if the gauge works out and adjust your needle size if necessary!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks! Can you explain why I would need to hold two together for this given the pattern for the “Far and Wide” hat uses linen quill and size 3 needles?
Hi Laura,
This pattern has a much denser gauge than the Far + Wide Hat–it was written for a DK weight yarn on relatively small needles, whereas the Far + Wide Hat was written for a fingering weight yarn. It’s just a matter of the designer’s preference! You could absolutely knit this hat with just one strand of a fingering weight yarn if you’d like, but the knit fabric will come out much less dense.
All the best,
Lili
Is it possible to translate this pattern for 2 needles please.I have difficulty with my hands.Thank you.
Hi Sue,
Thank you for writing in! I’m afraid we don’t have a flat knitting version of this pattern. One thing you could try is reversing the rounds into rows for the odd numbered rows! I’d just be sure to try this out over a small swatch for the decrease rounds just to be sure you are happy with the fabric.
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi there – I’m currently on the first round of decreases but don’t understand the difference between the instructions for the Crown for the specific sizes (Kid, Adult Small, Medium, & Large) vs the instructions for “All Sizes” I knitted the Adult Large and just want to be sure I’m decreasing the right way. Should I use the first decrease instructions or the second all sizes one? Is there a difference in the length it gives? Thanks in advance!
Hi Abigail,
You will want to first work your setup round in the CROWN section, from there you can proceed to KID, ADULT SMALL, ADULT MEDIUM + ADULT LARGE SIZES ONLY and finally continue to ALL SIZES. This will ensure your increases workout appropriately for your size. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
best way to change colors for stripes???
do you just start knitting with new color or do some special technique?
Hi Patty,
We used our Stripes In The round technique for this pattern.
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I’m making the baby size (cast on 84) and am confused at the crown section. The first part says for “kid, adult… etc only”. For the baby size do I skip from the set-up round to the “all sizes” directions?
Hi Steph,
Thanks for writing in, and yes, exactly! For the Baby size, just skip ahead of the All Sizes section.
All the best,
Lili
Is there a way to get JUST the pattern without all of the super huge pictures and ads for the various yarns? I already have a bunch of the yarn in my stash but don’t want to print out an insane number of pages JUST for the images and broken up ads for the yarn!
Hello,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend using the print function on our website to print out any of our free patterns. Here’s how to do it: If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
All the best,
Lili
I bought this bundle and just getting to the crown.
I am knitting the adult large with a cast on of 132 stitches
When I begin the decrease for the crown, I repeated rounds 1-4 (3x’s) with the decrease and I am only at 96 stitches.
Should I continue (2x’s) to get to 84 stitches, and then continue with the decrease?
Hi Beth,
Thanks for writing in! All you need to do now is repeat Rounds 1-4 one more time, and then you will be at 84 stitches and ready to move forward in the pattern! The instructions for the Adult Large size are to repeat Rounds 1-4 three more times, on top of the first time you worked through them. So it’s 4 times in total!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there- I accidentally cast on 138 stitches. I am beginning the crown. I did it the first time wrong and ripped it out and starting over with the decrease/crown. I’m confused on how to do this. Please advise. Thanks!
Hi Hilary,
Thanks for writing in! To get your stitch count back to something that will work for the crown, you’ll need to modify the Set-Up Round a bit and work two extra modified decrease rounds before continuing with the CROWN instructions as written. On your Set-Up Round, you’ll need to place your stitch markers in the following manner: 22 stitches, marker, 24 stitches, marker, 22 stitches, marker, 24 stitches, marker, 22 stitches, marker, 24 stitches, end-of-round marker. You should have 3 groups of 22 stitches, interspersed with 3 groups of 24 stitches!
Then, work your first modified decrease round as follows: Work in pattern for 22 stitches, slip marker, work in pattern to last 2 stitches of 24-stitch section, k2tog. Repeat this two more times until the end of the round. Then, you can work one round just in pattern (no decreases), and then repeat the modified decrease round once more. Now you’ll be at 132 stitches, and after working one round in pattern, you can just follow the rest of the CROWN section as written!
I hope this helps get you back on track, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, there! Do you think you will be restocking the Cashmere Merino Bloom in Autumn Oak again? That color was featured in a previous version of this pattern and is such a unique shade.
Hi Emilia,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m so sorry to say that we’ve discontinued Cashmere Merino Bloom in Autumn Oak! While we loved this color, not everybody else felt the same way, so we’ve had to make the sad decision to stop producing it. We hope you can understand!
We do still offer this color in Line Weight and Quartz though, so you could knit this pattern holding either of those yarns double. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I love the intarsia version. Any tips on where I can find out more about this technique. Thanks so much.
Hi Jenna,
Thanks for writing in! This is the hat I made, and I can totally help you make your own! I actually followed the instructions for the Two-Tone Pom Pom Hat pattern, but I just cast on more stitches since the yarn is thinner.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! For the thin striped version, how is the yarn carried up so it isn’t visible when the brim is folded up? Thanks!
Hi Fiona,
Thanks for writing in! The way the pattern is designed, the carried-up yarn will show up a bit when the brim is folded up, though it will be obscured somewhat between knit ribs.
If you want it to be truly invisible, then you could modify the pattern a bit by switching directions partway through! If you knit the length you want the brim to be normally, then turn your work and finish knitting the rest of the hat in the opposite direction, the carried-up yarn will be hidden underneath the brim once it’s folded up. There will be a small hole at the end of the round where you change directions, but you can weave in some scrap yarn to close that up.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’ve had to undo the whole crown as the knit two together video for 1 x 1 rib has not worked. I knitted two together and it looks like lines of plain knits not the rib on the picture. Where have I gone wrong. Please help
Hi Denise,
Thank you for writing in although we are sorry to hear you are running into issues here. Could you please send a photo of your project to [email protected] so we can have a deeper look? We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello, I’m calculating the gauge for this hat. The gauge is 32 st in 4 inches.
I am getting 17 sts in 4 inches on size 2 needles. The unstretched circumference is approximately 15inches. Can you help me understand why I am getting about half as many stitches with a smaller needle and casting on 120 stitches my circumference is approximately 15inches. I am using cashmere merino bloom. Thank you
Hi Judy,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m happy to help! When you count stitches for the gauge in any sort of ribbing pattern, you’ll need to make sure you’re counting both the knit and purl stitches. For every “knit V” that’s visible, there is also a purl bump hiding next to it which counts as its own stitch!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! As soon as I sent this I realized I wasn’t counting the pearls. You’re a genius! Ugh….
Best to you
Hello,
It was the first time for me using dpn for knitting! I was so happy to try it but, even if I separate my stitches on 4 dpn, stitches tends to slip at the end of dpn and i loose stitches!! Do you have tricks for me? Thank you!!
Hi Claudine,
I’d recommend trying wood or bamboo DPNs as they are a little more grippy! You could also try decreasing down a bit before switching to your DPNs so that you have less stitches on your needles. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Wondering how to achieve a more rounded crown rather than a pointy one (as shown in the 5th photo from the top)? Should I start decreases earlier and have fewer decreases per row? Thank you!
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! To achieve a rounder top to this hat, you will actually have to increase the rate of decrease. I would recommend skipping to the ALL SIZES section of the CROWN right away and work those decrease rounds until the end, since you do the decreases back to back that way instead of having a round of plain ribbing in between to start. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
In the Crown section it says “see notes” about changing your double pointed needles, but I don’t see any notes?
Hi Renee,
To locate the NOTES section, I would recommend using the ctrl-F function and searching “notes.” That should bring you directly to the NOTES section!
All the best,
Lili
I have two skeins of the Cashmere Merino Bloom to make a beanie for my husband. His head measures 25″ (circumference above ears; also circumference hairline to hairline). Is the Adult Extra Large going to work? If not, how do I make the hat XXL?? Thanks so much!
Hi Kat,
I think the Adult Extra Large will be perfect–it’s super stretchy! If you want to make it larger though, then I would recommend either knitting at a slightly larger gauge, or adding more stitches. This pattern works over any multiple of 12 stitches, and the only place you’d need to do something differently is the beginning of the CROWN. Here’s how to work Set-Up Round of CROWN with any multiple of 12 stitch count:
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round marker, k1, replace marker for new end-of-round, *[p1, k1] (cast-on / 12) times, pm (place marker), repeat from * to end of round, omitting final stitch marker which is end-of-round marker. [6 stitch markers placed, including unique end-of-round marker]
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, this question is not really about the pattern, but about the yarn, Cashmere Merino Bloom. I’ve worked with it once and love it…what I’d like to know is, if I wanted to work with it holding it doubled, what weight would it be considered?
Thanks!
Pam
Hi Pam,
Thanks for writing in! I’d say that Cashmere Merino Bloom doubled will add up to approximately an aran weight yarn. But the best way to check is to knit up a gauge swatch so that you can see exactly what the resulting gauge measurements are!
All the best,
Lili
Would it be possible to make this hat in echo cashmere? Would I double the yarn and use the same size needles?
Hi Megan,
Echo Cashmere would be a wonderful choice for this hat, and I would recommend doubling the yarn so that you can easily meet the gauge of the pattern! You’ll also need to knit up a gauge swatch in order to determine the best needle size to use. You may need to size your needles up or down in order to achieve the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I switched patterns midway (and cast on the wrong number of stitches on top of that) which has led me to start the crown portion with 116 stitches. I thought modifying my first round of decreases to bring me to 114 stitches would work but I end up in the middle of the decrease repeats = my 19 stitch sections don’t start all start with purls. My brain can’t seem to figure out how to make it work.
What should I do now?
I’m currently sitting with 6 sections of 19 stitches with section 3 and 6 ending with 2 knit stitches (the last one being a k2tog). Sections 2 and 5 start with a knit stitch (regular, not from a k2tog) and the other sections start with purls.
I added a lifeline before starting the crown so I can easily start the crown over from 116 stitches.
Thanks for your help
Hi Perrine,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern works over a multiple of 12 stitches, so you’ll need to bring your stitch count down to 108 stitches before beginning the CROWN. To do that, first place stitch markers in the following manner: work 18 stitches, pm, work 20 stitches, pm, work 20 stitches, pm, work 18 stitches, pm, work 20 stitches, pm, work 20 stitches. You should end up with two sections of 18 stitches, 4 sections of 20 stitches, and 6 stitch markers, including your original end-of-round marker.
Then, work Rounds 1 – 4 of the KID, ADULT SMALL, ADULT MEDIUM + ADULT LARGE SIZES ONLY section one time, but only working the decrease stitches within the 20-stitch sections. Once you’ve completed that, you will have reached 108 stitches overall, and you can proceed to the beginning of the KID, ADULT SMALL, ADULT MEDIUM + ADULT LARGE SIZES ONLY section, working the pattern as written from there!
I hope this helps you get back on track, but please let me know if any other questions come up along the way!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I’m only now finding time to start this. Thank you so much! I do have one question: If I’m anticipating correctly (and maybe I’m not), once I’ve done my first row of decreases (only in the 20 stitch sections) I will have sections that start with a knit and not a purl. Should I be moving my stitch markers once over? Or should I do that before starting the first row of decreases like the set up row in the original instructions? Thanks again 🙂
Hi Perrine,
All the sections should always begin with a purl stitch! In the Set-Up Round for the CROWN, you move the end-of-round marker over one stitch so that each round (and therefore each section) begins with a purl now. Here’s that round, for quick reference:
Set-Up Round: Remove unique end-of-round marker, k1, replace marker for new end of round, *[p1, k1] 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) times, pm (place marker), repeat from * to end of round, omitting final stitch marker. [6 stitch markers placed, including unique end-of-round marker]
You’ll need to move the marker over by 1 before beginning any of the decreases, including the extra ones I laid out in my previous comment!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!!
Hi Purl Soho,
I will need to purchase size 3 double-pointed needles. Does the length of the needle matter. Options are 6 and 8 inches.
Thank you!
Hi Janice,
Thanks for writing in! DPN length is up to you! Both 6″ and 8″ DPNs will work for most projects, including this one, so the length is typically up to the knitter’s preference.
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I really like the 50/50 colour block sample one of your team made in the blue and yellow (50% of the circumference in each colour). I can’t get my head around the knitting technique… Am i essentially creating two halves and then seaming them?
Hi Jade,
I’m so happy to hear that you liked my version of this hat! I actually followed the instructions for the Two-Tone Pom Pom Hat pattern, and I cast on more stitches since the yarn is thinner.
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I’m planning teach a knitting in the round workshop and I would love to use this pattern on the course to teach 8 knitters. This pattern is so well written and comes in a great range of sizes. Would you happy for our knitters to use this pattern on the course, fully credited to you?
Hi Pirjo,
Thanks for getting in touch and wanting to base a class on one of our patterns! We’d be very happy for you to expand your customers’ skills with our Classic Ribbed Hat but ask that you please not use our photos for promotion and do not advertise it as a Purl Soho class. We also request that, instead of printing the pattern for your students, you give them the link to the project so that they can print it themselves. Or if that’s not possible, we just ask that you clearly state on the handout that the pattern is from our site and give the direct link to the pattern.
Thank you and best of luck with your class. We’d love to see pictures of what you and your students accomplish!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much!