Over-the-Top Top
Up the back, over the top and down the front… That’s how I knit my very first garment. I’ve since graduated to more complicated designs, but the over-the-top construction will forever be in my knitting arsenal (see Cap Sleeve Lattice Top, Cable Back Shell, and Bamboo Shell).
For this Over-the-Top Top we combined Habu’s beautiful and rustic Linen Roving with a fan-favorite, Purl Soho’s incredibly soft Line Weight merino. The pair, pulled together and worked purl side out, creates a gorgeous drape, a lovely glow and just enough complexity for a pared-down structure.
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
I love that this sweater’s hemmed edges add to its overall simplicity. Oh, and did I mention? It’s reversible! Those same hemmed edges on the reverse side contrast with stockinette stitch and exposed seams. Two tops in one… really pushing this top over the top! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoOverTheTopTop, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Yarn A: 2 (2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino wool yarn. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 494 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 820 (925, 1040, 1155) (1275, 1400, 1525, 1660) yards required. We used the color Oyster Gray.
- Yarn B: 1 (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 3) skein(s) of Habu’s Linen Roving, 100% linen. Each skein is 795 yards/ 184 grams; approximately 795 (935, 1050, 1165) (1285, 1410, 1540, 1670) yards required. We used the color White.
Shop our wonderful collection of fingering-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
You’ll also need…
- US 6 (4 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 6, 24-inch circular needles
- Spare US 6 or smaller, 24-inch or longer circular needles (for hemmed edges)
- Scrap yarn and a crochet hook to match (for provisional cast on)
- Removable stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Gauge
22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
38 (42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 62, 66)
To fit actual chest circumference of 33-35 (37-39, 41-43, 45-47) (49-51, 53-55, 57-59, 61-63) inches, with 3–5 inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 38 (42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 62, 66) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 19½ (20, 20½, 21) (21½, 22, 22½, 23) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 11½ (11½, 11¼, 11½) (11¾, 12, 12¼, 12½) inches
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 38.
Notes
RIGHT + WRONG SIDES
For this pattern, the purl side of the stockinette fabric is considered the “right side” and the knit side is the “wrong side.”
PROVISIONAL CAST ON
For assistance, including how to put live stitches back onto needles, please visit our Provisional Cast On: A One-Step Method Tutorial.
M1P (MAKE 1 PURLWISE)
With left needle, pick up horizontal strand between last stitch and next stitch, bringing needle from back to front, then purl through front loop of strand. [1 stitch increased]
NOTE For a video tutorial of this increase, please visit https://www.purlsoho.com/create/make-1-purlwise-m1p/
PICKING UP STITCHES
For assistance on picking up stitches, including along a vertical edge, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Pattern
BACK BODY
With scrap yarn and using a Provisional Cast-On (see Notes), cast 104 (115, 126, 137) (148, 159, 170, 181) stitches onto longer circular needles.
Holding one strand of Yarn A and one strand of Yarn B together…
Row 1 (wrong side [see Notes]): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to last two stitches, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2, until piece measures 2 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 2.
HEM BACK BOTTOM EDGE
With wrong (knit) side facing you, carefully remove scrap yarn from provisional cast on, slipping stitches onto spare circular needles as you go.
NOTE: Visit our Knit Hem Tutorial for extra help with this section, noting that the tutorial shows these steps with the knit, instead of purl, side out.
Fold piece so wrong (knit) sides are together and right (purl) sides are facing out, working needles behind spare needles.
Next Row (wrong side): Using right working needle, [purl first stitch on left spare needle together with first stitch on left working needle] 2 times, *knit first stitch on left working needle together with first stitch on left spare needle, repeat from * until 2 stitches remain on each needle, [purl first stitch on left spare needle together with first stitch on left working needle] 2 times.
Continue Back Body
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last two stitches, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 18½ (19, 19½, 20) (20½, 21, 21½, 22) inches from hemmed edge or approximately 1 inch less than desired finished length from bottom edge to Shoulder.
Repeat Row 1 one more time.
Divide for Shoulders + Back Neck
Division Row (wrong side): P2, knit 29 (34, 38, 42) (47, 52, 57, 61), place previous 31 (36, 40, 44) (49, 54, 59, 63) stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn for Left Shoulder, knit 42 (43, 46, 49) (50, 51, 52, 55), place previous 42 (43, 46, 49) (50, 51, 52, 55) stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn for Back Neck, knit to last two stitches, p2. [31 (36, 40, 44) (49, 54, 59, 63) stitches remain for Right Shoulder]
BACK + FRONT SHOULDERS
WORK RIGHT SHOULDER
Slip Right Shoulder stitches to shorter circular needles.
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 3 stitches, purl 2 together (p2tog), k1. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): P1, knit 2 together (k2tog), knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [1 stitch decreased]
Rows 3–6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times. [25 (30, 34, 38) (43, 48, 53, 57) stitches remain]
NOTE: This is the halfway point on the Right Shoulder. Place a removable stitch marker (or piece of scrap yarn) on the outer selvage at this point. This will mark where to fold the sweater when it comes time to seam the sides.
Row 7: K2, purl to last stitch, k1.
Row 8: P1, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.
Rows 9–22: Repeat Rows 7 and 8 seven more times.
SHAPE RIGHT FRONT NECK
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last stitch, make 1 purlwise (m1p, see Notes), k1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 2: P1, make 1 right (m1R), knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [1 stitch increased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven more times. [41 (46, 50, 54) (59, 64, 69, 73) stitches]
Place stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn for Right Front.
Cut Yarns A and B.
WORK LEFT SHOULDER
Slip on-hold Left Shoulder stitches onto longer circular needles. With wrong side facing you, join a strand of both Yarn A and Yarn B.
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 3 stitches, slip slip knit (ssk), p1. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2 (right side): K1, p2tog tbl (through back loop), purl to last 2 stitches, k2. [1 stitch decreased]
Rows 3–6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times. [25 (30, 34, 38) (43, 48, 53, 57) stitches remain]
NOTE: This is the halfway point on the Left Shoulder. Place a removable stitch marker (or piece of scrap yarn) on the outer selvage.
Row 7: P2, knit to last stitch, p1.
Row 8: K1, purl to last two stitches, k2.
Rows 9–22: Repeat Rows 7 and 8 seven more times.
SHAPE LEFT FRONT NECK
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last stitch, make 1 left (m1L), p1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 2 (right side): K1, m1p, purl to last two stitches, k2. [1 stitch increased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven more times. [41 (46, 50, 54) (59, 64, 69, 73) stitches]
JOIN LEFT + RIGHT FRONT
Joining Row (wrong side): P2, knit to end of Left Front stitches; turn work and with right side facing you, cable cast on 22 (23, 26, 29) (30, 31, 32, 35) stitches; turn work and with wrong side facing you, knit across Right Front stitches to last two stitches, p2. [104 (115, 126, 137) (148, 159, 170, 181) total stitches]
FRONT BODY
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last two stitches, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 20½ (21, 21½, 22) (22½, 23, 23½, 24) inches from halfway marker or 1 inch longer than desired length from top of Shoulders to bottom edge.
Repeat Row 1 one more time.
HEM FRONT BOTTOM EDGE
Find the row that measures 2 inches from working needles and slip each stitch of that row onto spare circular needles.
Fold piece so wrong (knit) sides are together and right (purl) sides are facing out, working needles behind spare needles.
Holding needles parallel in your left hand, use the right working needle to work a 3-needle bind off in pattern. Here’s how…
[P2tog] 2 times (one stitch from each needle), bind off one, *k2tog (one stitch from each needle), bind off one, repeat from * until two stitches remain on each needle, [p2tog (one stitch from each needle), bind off one] 2 times.
SIDE SEAMS
NOTE: Right now is a great time to weave in all the tails. Taking care of them now makes seaming the sides and picking up for the Armholes and Neckline a bit easier.
Fold piece in half at the halfway markers at Shoulders, wrong sides together. Right (purl) sides are facing you. Thread a length of both Yarn A and Yarn B onto a tapestry needle and use mattress stitch to seam each side, allowing selvage stitches to form two columns of knit stitches on the right side of the piece.
Start about an inch above hemmed bottom edges and end 8 (8½, 9¼, 9½) (9¾, 10, 10¼, 10½) inches before halfway markers at Shoulders.
SLEEVES
Pick-Up Round: With right (purl) side facing you, join one strand of Yarn A and Yarn B and use shorter circular needles to pick up stitches (see Notes) around armhole. Starting at the top of the Side Seam, pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows around the entire Armhole.
Place marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1 (right side): Purl to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 1 inch from pick-up round.
With wrong (knit) side facing you, slip each stitch of the first Sleeve round onto spare needles.
Fold wrong (knit) sides of Sleeve together, and holding working and spare needles parallel in your left hand, use right working needle to work a 3-needle bind off, knitwise.
Cut Yarn A and Yarn B.
Repeat for other Sleeve.
NECKBAND
Pick-Up Round: With right (purl) side facing you, slip on-hold Back Neck stitches onto shorter circular needles. Continuing with shorter needles, join one strand of Yarn A and Yarn B and pick up and knit for Neckband: one stitch for each row along slanted edges; 3 stitches for every 4 rows along 16-row vertical Shoulder edges; and one stitch for each cast-on stitch along Front Neck.
Place marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1 (right side): Purl to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 1 inch from pick-up round.
With wrong (knit) side facing you, slip each stitch of first Neckband round onto spare needles.
Fold wrong (knit) sides of Neckband fabric together, and holding working and spare needles parallel in your left hand, use right working needle to work a 3-needle bind off, knitwise.
WEAVE + BLOCK
Weave in any remaining ends and block as desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
It appears that some stitches should be slipped onto yarn in the middle back of the neck but it doesn’t say how many. Should it be the same number that you cable cast on when you join the fronts? Thank you.
Kate!
Thank you so very very much for writing in. I had left out an entire row of pattern. It is in there now! Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks again. -Laura
How do you think this will knit up using all line weight? I have a few hanks of Ballet Pink and Sea Salt (I think that’s the color name; it’s the light taupey-grey) that would make a gorgeous color combo.
Hi Liz N.
Thanks for writing in.
I think this would be amazing worked up in two strands of Line Weight. And your color combination sounds beautiful.
Let us know how it goes! -Laura
Thank you for the feedback, Laura. I spent the better part of a very rainy day today working on the top, and I’m really happy with how it looks stitched with just the Line Weight. And the colors are even prettier together than I expected! I have the back done and have already decided that I NEED several of these sweaters in more colors!
Hi Liz,
I was wondering how many skeins you ended up using of just line weight? I was thinking of doing the same, and I wanted to be sure I had the right amount of yarn.
Thanks!
I’d love to know too!
Hi all,
Thanks for writing us. You’ll probably need two of each color if you are making any of the sizes except the largest, which will require three of each color. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Can this me knitted in ha u’s dyed bamboo?
Hi Debbi.
Interesting question!
Were you thinking of doubling the Bamboo of just working with one strand? For the Bamboo Shell, I worked on a US3 and got a gauge of 27 stitches to 4 inches. For this project I worked on a US6 and got 22 stitches to 4 inches. I think if you double the bamboo it may be too thick. Worked with one strand it’s a bit thin, although I do think you could accomplish the same gauge as I did here, your fabric will just be much more open and airy. It could be very cool.
I’d love to hear what you decide to do! Please let us know if you have any questions -Laura
I adore this!
I want a closet full in different colours.
Can you make a version with different sleeve lengths and maybe a cardigan?
Also reversible?
Best pattern I’ve seen in ages.
Kristina!
You are too kind. I’d love to do some modifications to this piece! We’ll see what we can get on the docket. Stay tuned! And thanks again for the kind words. -Laura
This is THE pattern I have been hoping to find. I wanted to keep it simple enough that I could complete it without frogging it out of frustration. It would be fantastic if there was a printer friendly version so we could print this out without having to print nineteen pages. It is nice to see the photos huge on a web page but not needed to print it out. Or maybe a downloadable PDF version? It is easy for me to miss that anyway.
Hey Mary.
Thanks for writing in. I’m not sure if you saw it, but we have this print button on out blog.
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
You can follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
I hope this helps with your printing needs. Thanks again for writing in. I’m really glad you like the pattern!
Best,
Laura
It would be nice to have pattern in a PDF for ease to look at while knitting your free patterns.
Hi Kristin.
Thanks for writing in. I’m not sure if you saw it, but we have this print button on out blog that makes it incredibly easy to PDF our patterns.
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
You can follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
I hope this helps with your PDFing needs. Thanks again for writing in.
Best,
Laura
I’m a sucker for short sleeved, summer knits, and this is such a body-forgiving, comfortable design. Can’t wait to get started.
Wish you would provide the patterns as a downloadable pdf. Love this pattern, but need to save it to my library so I can do it “someday”. I’m in the midst of a sweater now, and have two more with yarn ready to do, and can’t cast on for it yet!
Hi Tenna.
Thanks for writing in. I’m not sure if you saw it, but we have this print button that makes PDFing out patterns incredibly easy!
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
You can follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
I hope this helps with your PDFing needs. Thanks again for writing in.
Best,
Laura
If you knitted the linen roving with say the deep pink or blue would it give you a tweed look. Or would it be better to use a lighter color?
Hey Debbie…
I think picking a high contrast Yarn A could be really great. The darker Yarn A, the tweedier the fabric will look. This isn’t quite the same, but… Our Bobble Yoke Sweater uses one strand of white Cashmere + one strand of Line Weight. We have some example swatches in that post if you’d like to take a look. The swatches only show the knitside, but it may give you an idea of the tweed / marled look that can be accomplished.
Thanks for writing in!
Best,
Laura
I think I am going to like the orange and white together.
Thanks
This pattern is most intriguing . I would love to see this garment on a model. Do the sleeves form a cap sleeve? I need some coverage of my upper arm.
Hi Betsy,
Thanks for writing in!
You can see Kelly modeling the top (and the Gathered Skirt) on Instagram!
The sleeves do form a cap. If you’re interested in longer sleeves, the pattern is very easy to modify. Once you’ve picked up around the armhole as instructed to do the hem edge, instead of hemming the edge, just work as long a sleeve as you’d like adding shaping for your desired length and width! We’re here to help you trouble shoot along the way. Let us know if you have any questions! Thanks. -Laura
Are there 2 patterns? The second 2 pics look almost sleeveless.
Hi Kim.
Thanks for writing in. There is just one pattern! It does look quite different on the dressform and off though!
The top doesn’t really have sleeves. The cap sleeves come from the structure of the top. Since the body of the top is pretty much a rectangle (with a head hole) that’s then folded in half and seamed along the sides, there is enough width across the shoulders that the fabric hangs over a bit making a tiny little sleeve. This little sleeve also has a 1/2 inch hemmed edge, adding to the cap sleeve look.
I hope this explanation helps… Please let me know if I’m being unclear or if you have any questions at all!
Thanks again for writing in.
Best.
Laura
For those of us who live in much warmer climates (Arizona) will you please suggest a cotton replacement for the merino wool?
Hi Patricia.
I’ll gladly offer up some cotton substitutions for the wool… Let’s see… Habu’s Cotton Nerimaki Slub would be wonderful, it’s got a slub in it, so the overall fabric will have a bit of a different look, but it’s really lovely yarn! Also maybe check out Habu’s Wide Cotton Gima.
If you’re at all curious about linen options…
Habu’s Dyed Linen
Bocken’s Tow Linen 6/1
Let us know if you have any questions! Thanks for writing in. -Laura
I, too, would love to knit this pattern! I love your lineweight yarn and this combination sounds good. However I would like to knit it with a different sleeve length as did the other writer, so I hope you will be able to give us some help on this!
Hey Linda.
I’d love to talk (or type) you through modifying the sleeve. The pattern is already set up as a drop sleeve construction. There are instructions for picking up around the armhole in order to make that hemmed edge, so once you’ve picked up, you can work as long of a sleeve as you’d like, adding however much shaping you need for your desired length.
Holler if you have any questions along the way. Let us know how it goes! -Laura
I don’t have any of the Habu linen yarn (and no easy way to get it!) but do have 2-ply Jade sapphire. Knowing that the warmth of the garment would change with the cashmere, would that otherwise be a good substitution, do you think?
Robin!
Yes! You are speaking me language!!
That would be a lovely substitution. I’m not sure if you’ve seen it, but our Bobble Yoke Sweater combines one strand of Jade Sapphire’s 2-Ply Cashmere with a strand of our Line Weight for sweater’s yoke. I was working at 6 stitches to the inch (for a denser winter fabric), but I think these yarns could very easily be worked a bit looser for a 5.5 stitch to the inch gauge and be quite beautiful!
Let us know how this goes! It sounds wonderful! -Laura
Do you know what yardage I would need to do this in a single strand dk?
Thanks! This is such a cool top, I cannot wait to knit it!
Hi Anne.
Thanks for writing in. The suggested yardage for this project is 1500 (1707, 1922, 2147, 2380) total yards, 750 (853, 961, 1073, 1190) of each yarn. Just to be safe, I would plan for 10% over the 750 (853, 961, 1073, 1190) yards! Enjoy your DK top!! -Laura
Simply love this pattern.I have only been knitting since October and ..Trust me it has its ups and downs.but I am getting it .This is so nice for spring and summer days.Thank you for a lovely pattern.When you don’t offer PDF’s I will copy and paste to print just the pattern.it works for me.
Hi Linda,
I just happened upon your knitting site and am so happy to have found it! I am very interested in knitting the Over-the-Top Top but, I, too, need your guidance in using a cotton/linen combination to make this a lighter summer top. I love the color that you chose to create by combining the merino wool and linen. Which two yarns do you suggest I use to create the same or similar hue, please?
Thanks so much!
Darcy
Hi Darcy.
Thanks for writing in.
Habu’s Cotton Nerimaki Slub would be wonderful, it’s got slub in it, so the overall fabric will have a bit of a different look, but it’s really lovely yarn! I think the color Smoke would be perfect. Also maybe check out Habu’s Wide Cotton Gima. In this yarn I think Beige would accomplish a similar hue.
If you’re at all curious about linen options…
Bocken’s Tow Linen 6/1, in Oatmeal, Cream or Fog. We also JUST got in 3 new Sweedish linens, but the boxes haven’t been unpacked yet. The new linen and linen/wool and linen/cotton yarns are amazing. If you have a few days to wait, I can write you back once they are online!
Thanks for writing in Darcy and let us know if you have any questions! -Laura
How do you weave in the ends to maintain the reversibility? I usually use follow-along but that would leave obvious thicker spots on the reverse.
Hi Christie.
I used the follow-along method for this. Since it’s worked with two strands, sometimes I’d take one strand one row up and one strand one row down to minimize the thicker spots that you mentioned. Also, whenever possible, I left my ends along the edges so that I could eventually weave them into the side seams or hems.
I hope this helps. Let us know if you have any questions! -Laura
Hi,
Lately, I’ve been exploring the technique of splicing my ends together… it’s working fabulously with my current project, the gorgeous cashmere ombré wrap. Would it work here? Thanks, Lizzy
Hi Elizabeth.
Thanks for writing in. I must admit I don’t have much experience splicing my ends together. I bet it would work here though. Both yarns are fairly malleable. If you do it, I’d love to hear how it goes! Thanks again for writing in. -Laura
One more question! Can you make some other color suggestions for combining those two yarns? Thanks so much, Lizzy
Hi Again Elizabeth.
I’d gladly make some color suggestions. We only have the Linen Roving in white, so the color change will have to come from the Line Weight.
If you like the low contrast combinations, similar to what we’ve done here, maybe check out the Ballet Pink or the Ice Blue which is currently on sale.
For some other combinations, you could check out our Bobble Yoke Sweater post. It isn’t the exact same, but it does use one strand of white (2-ply Cashmere in this case) and one strand of Line Weight. We have some example swatches in that post if you’d like to take a look. The swatches only show the knitside, but it may give you some color ideas.
Please let us know if you have any questions. Best. -Laura
I am NOT a “seasoned” knitter but I do try new things and this looks like something I’d like to do. I have a good deal of acquired stash yarn and I’m wondering if I can use it. But it’s only one color. It is Reynolds Soft Linen. Can I use this and only one strand? Or must two be used. Can you tell I’m not experienced?! I do not yet quite understand the properties of the yarns!
Hi Elena.
I’m so glad you wrote in. This is a great question you’ve ask!
A single strand of Reynolds Soft Linen might work! I don’t think it’s ideal, but it could work. I looked it up and this is what I found out… it’s a worsted weight yarn and appears to get 5 stitches to the inch on a US6 needle. To achieve 5 1/2 stitches to the inch (the gauge this project is worked at), you may have to drop down 1 or 2 needle sizes. At this point the fabric might become a bit too dense and maybe unpleasant to work with. Before writing it off though, maybe try it out. Cast on about 25 stitches and work up a square swatch of stockinette. Try it on US5 and see what gauge you get. It might just be perfect.
After you swatch, write us back, tell us how it went!
Let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
I will do that and thank you so much for the quick response. And the encouragement!
I have some of the line weight left over from the Gradient Cowl kit (grapefruit combo: super pink, pink grapefruit, ballet pink, heirloom white, yellow yellow). I was thinking of using those (maybe not the white) with the Habu which could give me some stripes. If you think that would work, what combination do you think would work well? I don’t have use all of them. Thanks.
Hi Dyan.
That sounds so fun and summery and bright. You could do stripes or blocks of color. Maybe the back could be Pink Grapefruit and the front could be Ballet Pink? Or something fun like that?! Maybe the bottom of the back could be Super Pink and then the back shoulders and front shoulders could be Pink Grapefruit and the bottom front could be Ballet Pink? There are lots of options! I’d love to hear how it goes.
Let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks for writing in. -Laura
Wow! I hadn’t thought of those options. Thanks for the extra ideas.
Thank you Laura ! Love the pattern and thanks to your instructions I downloaded it as a pdf. Computer technology and a great pattern!!
I live in The ?UK can you tell me the English version of the wool and could i give this shirt sleeves?
Thank you
Hi Flea.
First, regarding the sleeves… yes you can. If you’re interested in longer sleeves, the pattern is very easy to modify. Once you’ve picked up around the armhole as instructed to do the hem edge, instead of hemming the edge, just work as long a sleeve as you’d like adding shaping for your desired length and width!
Now, about the yarn… I used two strands of fingering weight yarn. These fingering weight yarns are the equivalent to a 3ply, I believe. Together I am achieving 22 stitches to 4 inches or 10cm. You could use 2 fingering weight yarns or a single strand of a DK.
Please let us know if you have any questions! Thanks -Laura
I don’t know if you’ll find this useful, but I often reference this site when trying to figure out yarn weights: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yarn_weight
Hi i just started knitting and i was wondering right after the 2in part before you pull out the cast on is continued flat and hemmed then move to circular?
Hi Alexandra.
I’m not entirely sure I’m understanding your question, but I hope this answers it… After you work for 2 inches, you’ll pick up along the cast on with a spare needle, then you’ll fold the fabric in half and work across both the spare needle and working needle simultaneously to create the hem, then you continue working the body flat with the working needle.
Please do not hesitate to write back in! I do hope I’ve answered your question! Thanks. -Laura
Hi Laura-
I have some yarn from a local farm- Juniper Moon’s Neve- it’s a worsted 100% cotton (gauge is 4.5-5.5 sts = 1″ on US 6-7). Do you think that would work for this? I love line weight, but I spent my yarn budget for the next few months at the Maryland Sheep & Wool Festival and if my hubby sees any more yarn coming in he’s not going to be trilled :-).
Thanks!!
Hi Jessica.
The gauge sounds like it will work wonderfully. I think your fabric may end up being a bit more dense than mine, just due to the yarn and its fiber content. Sounds like a great substitution though! Enjoy the pattern. Thanks. -Laura
On your advice, I did a swatch of 25 sts on size 5 needles. My gauge with the Reynolds Soft Linen is 6 st/7 rows to one inch. However, I now realize that I will NOT have enough yarn to complete the sweater so I will make a purchase of the correct yarn! I only hope I can get through this, you may be hearing from me again!
I am a fairly new knitter and still trying to figure out sizing/ease. I am a 36″ bust, so with this pattern should I knit the size 36 or 40?
Thanks!
Hey Janet.
Great question!
The sizes given in the pattern are the finished dimensions of the tops. If you want your top to be snug, and you have a 36-inch bust, then make the size 36. But if you want a roomier fit, make the size 40. The size 40 would give you (a 36-inch bust gal) 4-inches of ease. Does that help?! Please do not hesitate to write us with any questions. Thanks for writing in. -Laura
Hi,
I love this pattern. I got it from your shop a few weeks ago. I want to do this in worsted weight merino yarn. would you suggest worsted weight or fingering weight with it in Linen for the doubling/drape effect? I’m also not sure how much Linen yarn I’d need for it. I’m making a small size and going to increase the length by a few inches. Any suggestions would be great!! Thanks.
Hi Jill.
I worked this pattern up two strands of Fingering Weight yarn: one strand of a light Fingering Weight wool yarn and one strand of a Fingering Weight linen yarn. There are links to more info on each yarn I used in the MATERIALS section, if you’re curious. Also in this section, you can find the quantities you’ll need to make it exactly as I did. For the 36-inch bust, you’d need 2 skeins of Line Weight and 1 skein of Habu’s Linen Roving. If you are planning to extend the bottom of the piece though, I would recommend picking up an additional skein of the Linen. You will be find with just two skeins of Line Weight though, no need to buy more of that.
Thanks for writing in. Please let us know if you have any questions! -Laura
Hi Laura – love this pattern! I bought 3 colors of Line Weight when I visited the store in March and would like to try to use them in this pattern – Green Gray for the body up to the bottom of the armholes, Heirloom white from there to the shoulders, and Yellow Zest to do the hems on the neckline and armholes. Think that would work? And in that case, can you give me an idea of how long the Green Gray part should be? Your directions say Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 11 ½ inches but in the photos it looks longer than that. Thanks for your advice!
Hi Elizabeth.
That colorblocking would definitely work! This top of yours is going to be so fun and cheerful!
That 11 1/2 inch measurement is correct. It’s a slightly cropped top. It would look great a bit longer too though!
Let us know how it goes!!
Laura
Hello, I’m a fairly new knitter and I’m really wanting to try a garment! I’m so glad I found your pattern. I only have one problem. The yarn price is a bit high for me to use on my first garment. I love using yummy yarns, they feel like butter in your hands, but I think I’d better opt for a less expensive yarn on my first go. Especially since my bust is 42″ and I’ll be making it the 44″ size and possibly a bit longer.
So any inexpensive fingering weight yarn suggestions for this newbie? At this point, I’m not worried about color, I’ll do my best to combine colors that I’d wear.
Thanks!
Tessa
Hi Tessa.
I’d love to offer up some alternatives.
This pattern is worked at 5 1/2 stitches per inch using two strands of fingering weight yarn. So you could substitute the two fingering weight yarns or you could replace them with a single Light Worsted/DK weight yarn.
As for Fingering weight yarn options…
You could substitute the Linen Roving for a second strand of Line Weight.
As for Light Worsted/DK weight yarn options…
Maybe look at Tosh Merino DK or Blue Sky’s Skinny Cotton.
I hope this helps. Please let us know if you have any questions! Laura
Hey there –
I’ve been looking for a pattern like this to use with some DK (Manos silk blend) I bought in anticipation of using in a different project but it didn’t end up fitting with that pattern. (I’d use the DK instead of 2 strands held together.)
I have almost but possibly not quite enough in my colorway for this, and I’m thinking I might do a colorblock on the bottom in another color if it turns out I don’t have quite enough. Because this would be my first sweater, I’m wondering if you could confirm I’ve thought this potential modification through correctly.
Provisional cast on, but skip doing the hem right away but otherwise knit as directed, leaving the provisional cast on for now. At the neck opening, gauge whether I have enough yarn to finish the sweater without a colorblock. If so, I could finish the back hem then and continue on. If not, I’d knit in my main color until the back and front were the same length, and finish the front in my contrasting color as the pattern directs. I’d then pick up from the provisional cast on in the back and knit in the contrasting color for additional length, then add the hem.
Hopefully what I’m saying makes enough sense to allow you to assess whether I’m heading in the right direction. Appreciate any help you can provide. Thanks so much for this pattern! (PS:I tried to post this question from my phone a few days ago but it doesn’t seem to have appeared. If it is there somewhere, my apologies for double posting.)
Jenni!
You’ve got it!! This is very thought out and very clearly explained. Definitely let us know how it goes. Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Thank you! Can’t wait to get started and will feel so much more confident with the confirmation I am on the right track!
Could you define “line weight” for me?
Also, if I wanted to use a single strand, what weight would be best?
I love the pattern.
Thanks,
Sandra
Hello Sandra! We’re so glad to hear you like this simple pattern!
“Line weight” is simply the name of our yarn we created, it isn’t in reference to an actual gauge. This yarn can achieve the gauge of a lace weight or a light sport weight, depending on which needles you use (we recommend anywhere between US 1-6).
Since this pattern uses a combination of two very different textures, if you want to instead use one strand of yarn, you’ll need to make sure that you can achieve this gauge: 22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches. That way the sizing of the pattern won’t be off. I would recommend trying a Light Worsted/DK Weight yarn, such as Anzula’s For Better or Worsted!
Best of luck and happy knitting! -Alyson
I’m almost finished this funky, cool shirt using pima cotton and–check this out–Mrs. Crosby’s Satchel in Boston Fern. The Bston Fern is adding a visual richness, while the cotton in Summer Moss matches well without getting lost. Put this pattern on the top of your project list!
Katherine!
You are making my day with all of this kind comments you’re leaving. We love hearing about people’s experience with the patterns! Keep the updates coming!! Laura
I’ve been looking at this pattern for some time (as we move into a very warm Spring/early Summer) and have been reading the comments with some interest. I am particularly interested in your comments about colour gradient, as I have 1 skein of the beautiful Jade Sapphire 2ply in Neptune… Would you suggest combining this with wool or cotton? As I have only 1 skein, should I use it over the top or over the bottom? Would a combination in a shade of green be better than with a neutral (white/off-white/ecru? So, many possibilities…. Thanks for your help here!
Hello Pearly!
What a wonderful colorway to include in this pattern! Since the 100% Cashmere is already quite delicate, I would pair it with another delicate yarn so that the contrasting color doesn’t overpower the light, fluffiness of the cashmere. That would be my biggest fear with matching such a lovely yarn with anything too dense. I would try the linen that we used in the original pattern which you can find here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9752-Habu-Textiles-61-Linen-Roving
As far as the color distribution goes, I would use the special skein on the entire front of the top, and then a more neutral or solid skein for the entire back of the top. That way the beautiful color would be prominently featured and be close to your face! I hope this helps! Happy knitting! -Alyson
Hi! This is a beautiful top and I’d love to make it but I’m on the smaller side. What adjustments would I need to make this a 34?
Hello Tiffany,
Thank you for contacting us and for your interest in this pattern! Personally, I have seen this top worn with the suggested ease and lots of ease and it looks great either way. If you so choose to knit the 36″ bust size, I think you will still be satisfied with the look. Unfortunately, we do not have the resources to personalize patterns at this time, but the pattern has minimal shaping and is relatively easy to adjust to different measurements. Once again, thank you for your interest in this pattern and good luck with your knitting!
Best,
Adam
love the simplicity ,yet elegance of this pattern. Will be very versatile in any colour. Thank you
Yet another excellent pattern. Clear instructions, useful photos, and great results. My shirt ended up a bit thicker than the one presented here. I used Mrs. Crosby’s Boston Fern and a mossy Cascade Pima Cotton with cool results. The Mrs. Crosby yarn has variagated hues, making a really interesting shirt. Thanks for this and your other free patterns!
I love your designs! They are a constant source on inspiration 🙂
Hello
I’ve ordered 770metres (842 yards) of DK weight yarn. listed as “21 stitches and 28 rows for a 10x10cm tension square using 4mm needles”
I plan to make the smallest size, but I don’t have any other wool to pair it with, would this be okay?
I love this design and can’t wait to make it!
Hi Becca,
Thanks for writing us! It isn’t necessary to strand two yarns together if you are already working with a DK weight yarn. If you match the gauge listed on the yarn label or in the pattern, you should be good to go. Additionally, I think you have just the right amount of yardage! However, I always advise to get one more skein than necessary just incase. Good luck on your project!
Best,
Adam
Thank you that’s perfect!
It’s me again,
I’ve got pure alpaca for my top but was just wondering do you think it would lose shape to much or do you think it could work?
I know it’s going to be quite thick and warm, i’m not complaining! But don’t want to waste days for it to lose shape straight away, I am going to block and I feel I knit quite tight so that should all help.
Is it worth it or should I try my luck with a different top/sweater.
Thanks!
Hello Becca,
Thanks again for writing in. The Alpaca Pure will work for this top if knit tightly. The gauge might come out to be a bit bigger, but this top does look good with ease. If knit tightly, the alpaca shouldn’t sag too much. In fact, I’d be interested in seeing this top with the type of drape that alpaca lends. Good luck!
Best,
Adam
Thank you, I’ll be sure to let you know how it turns out!
I have just discovered your page and IG profile and I love what you do!
I was looking for a simple pattern to knit my first summer sweater (I already have the yarn, a variegated cotton for 5,5 mm needles) and I think this pattern is perfect!
The only thing is that I would like to knit circular….but I guess I can adapt it almost till the armholes (I’m very optimistic as I have never done that before!). Congrats and thank you for the pattern…I’ll let you know 😉
Hi Mayte,
Thanks for your kind words! Converting this pattern to circular knitting shouldn’t be too challenging! Good luck!
Best,
Adam
Hello! I’ve just finished the bottom hem, counted my stitches and I’ve managed to pick up 4 somewhere so I’ve got 108 instead of 104! I think I could decrease now without it being overly noticeable as it is right by the hem join, or should I carry on with 108?
Thanks!
Hi Becca,
Thanks for writing us! It is fine that you have four extra stitches. I would decrease near the side seams evenly (two decreases per each side). This part is not so visible and I don’t think it would make a difference in the overall look. Thanks again for writing and good luck!
Best,
Adam
“Starting at the underarm, pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows around the entire Armhole.”
Is it pick up and knit or just pick up?
Thanks!
Hi Aliki,
Thanks for writing us. Yes, you will pick up and knit 3 stitches for every 4 rows. Good luck!
Best,
Adam
Thank you so much for this pattern! This is my first “big project” beside hat and scarves and I loved to knit it!
I would rather like to have long arm but I’m not sure how to decrease until the end of the arm. Do you have any recommandation?
Hi Sophy,
You’re so welcome for this pattern! Glad you like it. I suggest you pick up and knit along the circumference of the armhole to make a sleeve. Since you will be knitting down to your wrist, you can try on as you go to decide when to decrease. Make sure you know your stitches and rows per inch in order know how many stitches you need to bind off with. Once you start decreasing you’ll need to do it evenly over a number of rows. In knowing your row gauge, you’ll be able to devise how many decreases are needed per arm length. It might take some math, but it’s all worth it in the end!
Best of luck!
-Adam
This is a nice pattern (as are the others). I totally “get” the linen for summer wear but I don’t understand the wool in this and the other suggested patterns. Won’t that be too warm? (I’m in California with lots of sunny days but in New York, you have those humid days to deal with). How does wool serve either of us in the summer? (But, you know, I’ve never tried it so maybe there’s something I’m not understanding about it’s properties.)
I keep seeing it suggested over and over again throughout the country. What’s up with that?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for the kind comment. To answer your question, I think that many of our readers knit now for garments later. You might be knitting wool in the summer so you can wear it for Fall. Wool might not be necessary in California, but it certainly is in NYC!
Best,
Adam
When pulling out the provisional cast on in the beginning, I end up having 103 stiches on my spare needle and 104 on my working needle. How do I solve this?
Thank you!
Hi Tamara,
Thanks for writing in! It could be that you aren’t picking up a stitch on your spare. I’d go back and double check first before trying to fix the situation. If you have all stitches present and don’t want to start over, then I suggest increasing one stitch on the spare needle. This will solve the problem with minimum effort!
Best,
Adam
Dear Laura (and Purl Bee) –
Thank you for all of your lovely patterns! I’ve enjoyed making several of the projects that you’ve listed. However, I’m struggling with this project – I’m using the exact yarn that you use – and the size 6 (US) needles – and I’m not knitting very loosely at all. I’m trying to make the smallest size of the pattern (36). Yet the piece measures 22 inches across! Please advise.
Thank you!
Warmly,
Ginger
Hi Ginger,
So sorry the piece is coming out too large! I would do some swatches on smaller needles and see if you can get the exact gauge that the pattern calls for. If you aren’t too far in the project, I’d start over if you really want the 36″ chest size. We knit the top on US 6 needles but everyone knits a little different! If you are far into the project and don’t want to start over, I think that this sweater looks good oversized and boxy, too! Best of luck on the project and happy knitting!
-Adam
Thank you, Adam! I’m grateful for your time!
I love the pattern and wonder if Shibui twig (46% linen, 42% silk & 12% wool) would work for this pattern? I bought this yarn for a different pattern but decided it’s not the top I want to make. This one is. Also, how difficult would it be to reduce bust size to 34? I’ll certainly get help determining the accuracy of my gauge, but don’t want a top that’s too big & baggy. I’m new to knitting. Thanks, Lisa
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! I think Shibui twig would be lovely for this project. I’d do a gauge swatch on a US 6 and see if you like the stitch definition. You might have to strand a lace weight yarn with it to get gauge. If your gauge ends up being a stitch or two more over 4″, then I would follow the size 36 and the top will in turn come out smaller. Also, since this pattern is knit flat, you can easily eliminate 10 stitches from the cast on in order to reduce the size. In this case, you might have less shoulder stitches, but I don’t think this will be such a big deal! I hope I’ve helped and that you decide to make this top. It’s a fun knit!
-Adam
I prefer the look of stockinette stitch to garter stitch. Would it be difficult to just knit this top with some adjustments to make it principally stockinette, and if so, what adjustments would be needed? I plan to knit it with elsebeth lavold’s Hempathy Yarn, which is supposedly DK yarn, but seems pretty light to me.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Hello Leslie,
Thanks you for writing in! This pattern is in stockinette stitch but the reverse side is considered the right side. If you want, you can just flip it inside out and wear the top like that or you can purl when it says to knit. I am not familiar with Hempathy Yarn, but I’d do a swatch on the needle size listed in the pattern and see if you get gauge. I hope you enjoy knitting this!
Best,
Adam
Could I make this top using Louet Euroflax Sport weight?
Hi Virginia,
Thanks for your question. Yes, you can make this top with Euroflax because the gauges are similar. However, I’d still do a gauge swatch to make sure you start knitting on the right needle. Let us know how it goes and if you have any questions!
-Adam
I always love your beautiful basic and interesting design, however many times it is difficult for me to understand the how to. I’m always wishing that you make the tutorial on video….
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! Tutorials are a big request and we will keep your suggestion in mind for future projects! Thanks again!
Best,
Adam
“Starting at the underarm, pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows around the entire Armhole.”
Hi, I’m confused at this point of the instruction.
What does it mean by pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows? How many stitches should I have on the needle at the end of the first row? Do I pick up 3 stitches for 4 rows only? I’m really confused here.
Hi Chloe,
Thanks for writing in and I’m sorry this is a bit confusing! To pick up three stitches for every four rows you will pick up three stitches (one for each row going up the armhole) and then skip the fourth stitch. You’ll continue on like this until you’ve picked up all around the armhole. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Thank you for answering this post. I am still not sure how to do the armholes. I am struggling to figure out how to pick up stitches from the purlside. I am also unsure about ‘where’ to pick up the stitches – on the edge or inside the edge where the purl stitches are. (This is my first garment, so apologies for asking silly questions) I found this video — is this the a good tutorial for the armholes? https://youtu.be/N7HuRXWsnfU
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! Since this sweater is knit in stockinette stitch, our regular Picking Up Stitches tutorial should be helpful!
Best,
Julianna
A wonderful Website, a really beautiful Basic Top, with a perfect instruction. Best regards, Dora
Hi there,
Thanks for this wonderful pattern! One question – would I be able to convert it in knitting in the round after doing the hem? I am thinking of changing to the Silken Straw pattern after doing the hem of Over the top top. Thank you for all your advice. Have read through most of the comments and they are all extremely helpful.
Hi Marilyn,
It is totally possible to do this pattern in the round after completing the hem. First, you will want to complete both the front and back hems and then you’ll join them in the round, making sure that both inside hem seams are facing the inside. You can then knit the body in the round and divide for the back when you are ready. You’ll knit up the back, neck and front as in the pattern and graft the live stitches in the round to the front chest. You can also adapt the silken straw top to have a folded hem by simply incorporating it into the beginning of the pattern.
All the best,
Adam
Could I use the Mulberry Merino for this? If so how much do you think I would need for a larger size. I currently have 4 skeins – was planning to do the foxglove vest but have since changed my mind!
Hi Jenny
Thanks for your question. Yes, you can make this top with Mulberry Merino because the gauges are similar. However, I’d still do a gauge swatch to make sure you start knitting on the right needle. To knit with a single strand you will need roughly 750 (853, 961, 1073, 1190) yards of Mulberry Merino. For the largest size, this would bring you in at 5 skeins of Mulberry Merino!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Awesome! For the measurement, my chest circumference is 39.5 but with 3-5 of ease I would need to make the size 44? Is that right?
Hi Jenni,
Thanks for writing in. Yes, that is correct. For your chest size you’ll definitely want to make the 44″ size.
All the best,
Adam
Hello! I’m curious about the yardage needed – one skein of the Linen Roving is only 795 yards, so isn’t that the maximum length of yarn that would be needed (per strand, whether held with another or used alone) for the first two sizes?
Love the style of this tee, looking forward to giving the pattern a try!
Hi Nell,
Thanks for reaching out! After double checking the yardage required for each size, we found that the yarn requirements were incorrect – I am so sorry about that! The exact yardages listed by Cassy are correct, so you will need two skeins of Linen Roving for the second size of the top. Thank you so much for pointing out this discrepancy!
Best,
Julianna
Could I substitute the Habu Textiles Natural Linen you sell for the Line Weight in this pattern? I’m looking to make a cooler summer top. Since it’s fingering weight, I thought it would be an okay substitution, but I thought I’d ask before I buy it in case you have any advice. Thank you!
Hello Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! You can certainly use Habu’s Natural Linen instead of the Line Weight. This will change the texture of the fabric, but you should be able to get the same gauge. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch before jumping into the project. I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Do you think using line weight and linen quill would work? Thank you for your help!
Hi Katrina,
Yes switching to Linen quill and line weight should be fine, I would do a gauge swatch just to make sure that you get the same amount of stitches as the pattern.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Is there a way to add long sleeves on this pattern instead of the cap sleeve? Thanks!
Hello Julianna,
Thank you for reaching out! This might take a bit of experimenting along with some trial and error, but I would try picking up along the sleeve and perhaps adding some decreases as you go.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
Marilla
Do you know when your linen roving will be back in stock, or another yarn you have that could be used as a substitute?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! We love Habu yarns, but they can take quite some time to arrive in our warehouse. While we do not have an ETA, you can sign up to be notified when we get it back in! To do so, you will go to the product page, select the color and enter your email address! We will then email you as soon as we get it back in stock! In the mean time, we have several fingering weight linen yarns in stock. I think Field Linen or Kalinka would work equally well for this pattern!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I am unsure about the directions for finishing the neckline. The stitches on the back that are on the shorter needle end up looking different than the sides and from if I join them in the round. Is that the intended effect or am I missing a step?
Hello Julie,
Thank you for reaching out! Are you working on picking up your stitches for the Hemmed edge to the neckline? How exactly to they look different? Your stitches that are already on your stitches will look different on your needles, just due to the fact that the were not picked up, while all of your other stitches are. However, once you begin to knit theses stitches, they will become more uniform. I would also recommend checking out or tutorial videos for picking up stitches. I always find them to be a helpful reference.
I hope this helps and let us know if things continue to look strange.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Matilda!
Thanks for your response.
I have successfully picked up stitches on both shoulders and the front of the neckline. When I join in the round with the stitches on the smaller needle (the back of the neck) and continue knitting around, the back of the neck does not look the same. Stitches haven’t been picked up along the back. When I reach one inch, fold over and work a three needle bind off, the back of the neck
finishes differently than the shoulders and front. Is that the intended effect?
Julie
Hi Julie,
I think you might be referring to how the stitches from the back neck were live stitches, while the rest of the stitches around the neckline were picked up. This can create the appearance of a seam or line at the base of the picked up stitches, though the live stitches will continue seamlessly from the back. Does that sound right? Although the “seam” at the base of the picked up stitches will always be a bit more obvious, it should look fairly uniform after creating the hemmed edge. You could always cast off the held back neck stitches before picking up stitches all the way around the neckline if you prefer everything to look exactly the same!
I hope that helps – if not, please send us a picture at [email protected] and we’d be happy to help troubleshoot this!
Best,
Julianna
Hi 🙂
Could you please send me this pattern in a size 34? The 36 will be too big, and I have tried working out the stitches using the other sizes as a guide, but I am really nervous that it wont work out.
Thanks
Karen
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have instructions for this top in a size 34; however, it is a fairly straightforward pattern! It will take a bit of experimenting to figure out the details, but I would start with casting on 93 stitches for the body, and as long as you keep all the increases and decreases symmetrical, it should work out fine!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Wondering if this will work in the Blu Sky Brushed Suri.
Hello Heather,
Thank you for reaching out! Honestly, I think Brushed Suri is going to be to thin by itself and to thick held with another yarn. You could always do a bit of experimenting with gauge to see if could get close to the patterns gauge of 22 stitches per 4 inches.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’ve been toying with the idea of making this with the Blue Sky Brushed Suri…would it work or would the stitches be too tight to enjoy that yarn?
Hi Heather,
Great question! The gauge on Blue Sky Brushed Suri is quite a bit different than the gauge that we used for this project. I think that this would result in a fabric that has quite a bit less drape than we have with this fabric. Depending on the size that you are hoping to make, you could try knitting the size down (or 2 sizes down) on a gauge that works better for the yarn but this would be a bit of trial and error.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi,
I absolutely love this pattern and would really like to try it.
I am new to knitting and have only managed scarves, blankets and headbands.
Being based in the UK I was wondering if I could use this yarn:
The Yarn Collective Portland Lace
Yarn Weight: Lace Blend
100% Merino Wool
Needles 2.00mm (US 0) – 2.75mm (US 2)
Ball Weight 100g (3.5oz)
Yarn Length 860m (941yds)
Tension 32-40 stitches to 10cm/4″
I just can’t work out what is good or bad!
Thank you for your help in advance
Hi Aly,
Thanks for the kind words and for writing in! It looks like your yarn may be a bit too thin for this pattern – both Line Weight and Habu Linen Roving are fingering weight, and it looks like your yarn is a lace weight. I would try to find something a bit heavier, but also be extra sure to knit a gauge swatch since you are substituting yarns!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I ordered 2 skeins ofPurl Soho Line Weight to make this sweater. I did not order the linen yarn. Is it ok to just use the line weight?
Hi Marian,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the gauge is based on using two strands of yarn held together, you will still need to add a second strand of fingering weight yarn in order to get the correct gauge. You could use two strands of Line Weight instead of one strand each of the Line Weight and Habu Linen Roving; however, you will need to order twice as much Line Weight to have enough yardage for the top.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
For the cast on of the front side where the neck is i have two gaps. I undid it to see if i made as mistake oe has poor tension but the gaps are still there. Is there some thing i need to do? Or will they be filled in when i add the hemmed collar?
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for reaching out! It is not uncommon to have a small hole when you use a cable cast on to add more stitches to a piece of knitting. If it is still noticeable after picking up stitches for the neckline, I would suggest using a small piece of yarn to close up the hole while you weaving in your ends.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello,
Do you have an alternative yarn suggestion for the Habu yarn that is less expensive?
Thank you!
Hi Lan,
Thanks for the question! I think that Sweetgrass would be a nice option! You would need 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins. It does have more drape, less structure and a very different hadn than the Habu but does come in a bit lower in price!
Best,
Cassy
I do not understand which back pattern I repeat based on these instructions… Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 18 ½ (19, 19 ½, 20, 20 ½) inches from hemmed edge or approximately 1 inch shy of desired finished length from hemmed edge to shoulder, ending with Row 2.
Do I repeat the rows where I am reducing with k2 purl k2 then p2 knit p2. I don’t see another back section but it feels wrong to keep decreasing.
It’s my first garment, apologies if this is clear in the pattern.
Hello Dawn,
Thank you for reaching out! You are repeating these two rows;
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 2: K2, purl to last two stitches, k2.
So your instincts are correct, there are no decreases.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hallo, is it possible to get the wonderfull pattern also in the German language???
Greatings from Germany
Hi Anita,
Thanks so much for writing in! At present, our patterns are only available in English. We certainly appreciate the request!
Best,
Julianna
Is there a video to help me learn to do this ‘Slip each stitch of that row onto the spare needle.’
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’pt have a video for this technique, but hopefully I can explain it for you! Slipping stitches is simply moving them to another needle without knitting them. To do so, you will hold the empty spare needle in your right hand and insert it into the indicated stitches, one at a time, purlwise, and move them over without working them.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Is it like this? https://vimeo.com/23092274
Or Is it like putting in a lifeline?
Hi Dawn,
It would be more similar to putting in a lifeline, except you will be moving the live stitches onto an empty needle without knitting or purling them.
Best,
Julianna
I got this! Thank you so much for the response.
Hi there,
I think the 36″ chest circumference might be a bit big for me. Do you have recommendations on how to size the pattern down?
Thanks!
Nicole
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t currently have the resources to grade this pattern down for smaller sizes, but we really do appreciate that bodies come in all shapes and sizes! I will certainly pass your request along to the design team. We greatly appreciate your feedback!
Warmly,
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
Thanks for the reply! Another question I have….I know the purl side is the “right” side on this pattern, but if I want the knit side to be the right side, will that disrupt the pattern greatly?
Thanks,
Nicole
Hi Nicole,
Of course, I’m happy to help! This top is actually reversible as written, so you can wear it whichever way you prefer without making any changes!
Best,
Julianna
I am enjoying knitting this top but I can’t go any farther because I don’t know what to do! I am ready to “Hem Front Bottom Edge”. The directions say, “With wrong (knit) side facing, find the row that measures 2 inches from the working needle. Slip each stitch of that row onto the spare needle.”
Do you have a video or easy way to explain to me how to put these stitches onto the spare needle. I am a visual learner and would really appreciate a video or pictures of how to do this.
Thank you so much for any help you can provide. I am anxious to finish my top!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, our Knit Hem Tutorial video will show you exactly what to do!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi everybody,
I would really like to knit this beautiful top (and fight my way through the instructions in English), but ordering the yarn from overseas is too expensive for me.
Can you please recommend a suitable yarn that is available in Europe?
Kind regards
Jeanette
Hi Jeanette,
Thanks for reaching out! Although I don’t have an exact recommendation for which yarn to use as I am not familiar with what may be available in Europe, you will simply need 2 fingering weight yarns of your choice! You will need approximately 988-1482 yards of Yarn A and 781-1562 yards of Yarn B depending on the size you plan on using!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
Can you please recommend the best yarn to substitute in for Habu Linen Roving. I found some recommendations in the comments but most of the yarns are no longer in stock stock.
Thank you!
Robin
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend using our Field Linen or Linen Quill! I always recommend to make a gauge swatch prior to beginning to unsure that you are consistent with the pattern.
Please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello!
I recently bought several skeins of Hedgerow House Wren because I just love the look of it. Now I’m struggling trying to find a pattern that appeals to me that is simple enough for my limited knitting skills. What would you think about this pattern in Hedgerow (w/o holding two yarns together) — assuming, of course, that I can get the gauge correct?
Thanks for the emotional support!
MAT
Hi Merrilyn,
I think that Hedgerow would be a wonderful yarn for this pattern! You should be able to get the gauge holding a single strand, though you might need to size up or down your needles.
All the best,
Lili