Over-the-Top Top
Up the back, over the top and down the front… That’s how I knit my very first garment. I’ve since graduated to more complicated designs, but the over-the-top construction will forever be in my knitting arsenal (see Cap Sleeve Lattice Top, Cable Back Shell, and Bamboo Shell).
For this Over-the-Top Top we combined Habu’s beautiful and rustic Linen Roving with a fan-favorite, Purl Soho’s incredibly soft Line Weight merino. The pair, pulled together and worked purl side out, creates a gorgeous drape, a lovely glow and just enough complexity for a pared-down structure.
I love that this sweater’s hemmed edges add to its overall simplicity. Oh, and did I mention? It’s reversible! Those same hemmed edges on the reverse side contrast with stockinette stitch and exposed seams. Two tops in one… really pushing this top over the top! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoOverTheTopTop, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Yarn A: 2 (2, 3, 3) (3, 3, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino wool. Each skein is 494 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 820 (925, 1040, 1155) (1275, 1400, 1525, 1660) yards required. We used the color Oyster Gray.
- Yarn B: 1 (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2, 3) skein(s) of Habu’s Linen Roving, 100% linen. Each skein is 795 yards/ 184 grams; approximately 795 (935, 1050, 1165) (1285, 1410, 1540, 1670) yards required. We used the color White.
- US 6 (4 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 6, 24-inch circular needles
- Spare US 6 or smaller, 24-inch or longer circular needles (for hemmed edges)
- Scrap yarn and a crochet hook to match (for provisional cast on)
- Removable stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Gauge
22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
38 (42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 62, 66)
To fit actual chest circumference of 33-35 (37-39, 41-43, 45-47) (49-51, 53-55, 57-59, 61-63) inches, with 3–5 inches of positive ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 38 (42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 62, 66) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 19½ (20, 20½, 21) (21½, 22, 22½, 23) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 11½ (11½, 11¼, 11½) (11¾, 12, 12¼, 12½) inches
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 38.
Notes
RIGHT + WRONG SIDES
For this pattern, the purl side of the stockinette fabric is considered the “right side” and the knit side is the “wrong side.”
PROVISIONAL CAST ON
For assistance, including how to put live stitches back onto needles, please visit our Provisional Cast On: A One-Step Method Tutorial.
M1P (MAKE 1 PURLWISE)
With left needle, pick up horizontal strand between last stitch and next stitch, bringing needle from back to front, then purl through front loop of strand. [1 stitch increased]
NOTE For a video tutorial of this increase, please visit https://www.purlsoho.com/create/make-1-purlwise-m1p/
PICKING UP STITCHES
For assistance on picking up stitches, including along a vertical edge, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Pattern
BACK BODY
With scrap yarn and using a Provisional Cast-On (see Notes), cast 104 (115, 126, 137) (148, 159, 170, 181) stitches onto longer circular needles.
Holding one strand of Yarn A and one strand of Yarn B together…
Row 1 (wrong side [see Notes]): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 2 (right side): K2, purl to last two stitches, k2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2, until piece measures 2 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 2.
HEM BACK BOTTOM EDGE
With wrong (knit) side facing you, carefully remove scrap yarn from provisional cast on, slipping stitches onto spare circular needles as you go.
NOTE: Visit our Knit Hem Tutorial for extra help with this section, noting that the tutorial shows these steps with the knit, instead of purl, side out.
Fold piece so wrong (knit) sides are together and right (purl) sides are facing out, working needles behind spare needles.
Next Row (wrong side): Using right working needle, [purl first stitch on left spare needle together with first stitch on left working needle] 2 times, *knit first stitch on left working needle together with first stitch on left spare needle, repeat from * until 2 stitches remain on each needle, [purl first stitch on left spare needle together with first stitch on left working needle] 2 times.
Continue Back Body
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last two stitches, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 18½ (19, 19½, 20) (20½, 21, 21½, 22) inches from hemmed edge or approximately 1 inch less than desired finished length from bottom edge to Shoulder.
Repeat Row 1 one more time.
Divide for Shoulders + Back Neck
Division Row (wrong side): P2, knit 29 (34, 38, 42) (47, 52, 57, 61), place previous 31 (36, 40, 44) (49, 54, 59, 63) stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn for Left Shoulder, knit 42 (43, 46, 49) (50, 51, 52, 55), place previous 42 (43, 46, 49) (50, 51, 52, 55) stitches onto stitch holders or scrap yarn for Back Neck, knit to last two stitches, p2. [31 (36, 40, 44) (49, 54, 59, 63) stitches remain for Right Shoulder]
BACK + FRONT SHOULDERS
WORK RIGHT SHOULDER
Slip Right Shoulder stitches to shorter circular needles.
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 3 stitches, purl 2 together (p2tog), k1. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): P1, knit 2 together (k2tog), knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [1 stitch decreased]
Rows 3–6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times. [25 (30, 34, 38) (43, 48, 53, 57) stitches remain]
NOTE: This is the halfway point on the Right Shoulder. Place a removable stitch marker (or piece of scrap yarn) on the outer selvage at this point. This will mark where to fold the sweater when it comes time to seam the sides.
Row 7: K2, purl to last stitch, k1.
Row 8: P1, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.
Rows 9–22: Repeat Rows 7 and 8 seven more times.
SHAPE RIGHT FRONT NECK
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last stitch, make 1 purlwise (m1p, see Notes), k1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 2: P1, make 1 right (m1R), knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [1 stitch increased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven more times. [41 (46, 50, 54) (59, 64, 69, 73) stitches]
Place stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn for Right Front.
Cut Yarns A and B.
WORK LEFT SHOULDER
Slip on-hold Left Shoulder stitches onto longer circular needles. With wrong side facing you, join a strand of both Yarn A and Yarn B.
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 3 stitches, slip slip knit (ssk), p1. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2 (right side): K1, p2tog tbl (through back loop), purl to last 2 stitches, k2. [1 stitch decreased]
Rows 3–6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times. [25 (30, 34, 38) (43, 48, 53, 57) stitches remain]
NOTE: This is the halfway point on the Left Shoulder. Place a removable stitch marker (or piece of scrap yarn) on the outer selvage.
Row 7: P2, knit to last stitch, p1.
Row 8: K1, purl to last two stitches, k2.
Rows 9–22: Repeat Rows 7 and 8 seven more times.
SHAPE LEFT FRONT NECK
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last stitch, make 1 left (m1L), p1. [1 stitch increased]
Row 2 (right side): K1, m1p, purl to last two stitches, k2. [1 stitch increased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven more times. [41 (46, 50, 54) (59, 64, 69, 73) stitches]
JOIN LEFT + RIGHT FRONT
Joining Row (wrong side): P2, knit to end of Left Front stitches; turn work and with right side facing you, cable cast on 22 (23, 26, 29) (30, 31, 32, 35) stitches; turn work and with wrong side facing you, knit across Right Front stitches to last two stitches, p2. [104 (115, 126, 137) (148, 159, 170, 181) total stitches]
FRONT BODY
Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last two stitches, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 20½ (21, 21½, 22) (22½, 23, 23½, 24) inches from halfway marker or 1 inch longer than desired length from top of Shoulders to bottom edge.
Repeat Row 1 one more time.
HEM FRONT BOTTOM EDGE
Find the row that measures 2 inches from working needles and slip each stitch of that row onto spare circular needles.
Fold piece so wrong (knit) sides are together and right (purl) sides are facing out, working needles behind spare needles.
Holding needles parallel in your left hand, use the right working needle to work a 3-needle bind off in pattern. Here’s how…
[P2tog] 2 times (one stitch from each needle), bind off one, *k2tog (one stitch from each needle), bind off one, repeat from * until two stitches remain on each needle, [p2tog (one stitch from each needle), bind off one] 2 times.
SIDE SEAMS
NOTE: Right now is a great time to weave in all the tails. Taking care of them now makes seaming the sides and picking up for the Armholes and Neckline a bit easier.
Fold piece in half at the halfway markers at Shoulders, wrong sides together. Right (purl) sides are facing you. Thread a length of both Yarn A and Yarn B onto a tapestry needle and use mattress stitch to seam each side, allowing selvage stitches to form two columns of knit stitches on the right side of the piece.
Start about an inch above hemmed bottom edges and end 8 (8½, 9¼, 9½) (9¾, 10, 10¼, 10½) inches before halfway markers at Shoulders.
SLEEVES
Pick-Up Round: With right (purl) side facing you, join one strand of Yarn A and Yarn B and use shorter circular needles to pick up stitches (see Notes) around armhole. Starting at the top of the Side Seam, pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows around the entire Armhole.
Place marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1 (right side): Purl to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 1 inch from pick-up round.
With wrong (knit) side facing you, slip each stitch of the first Sleeve round onto spare needles.
Fold wrong (knit) sides of Sleeve together, and holding working and spare needles parallel in your left hand, use right working needle to work a 3-needle bind off, knitwise.
Cut Yarn A and Yarn B.
Repeat for other Sleeve.
NECKBAND
Pick-Up Round: With right (purl) side facing you, slip on-hold Back Neck stitches onto shorter circular needles. Continuing with shorter needles, join one strand of Yarn A and Yarn B and pick up and knit for Neckband: one stitch for each row along slanted edges; 3 stitches for every 4 rows along 16-row vertical Shoulder edges; and one stitch for each cast-on stitch along Front Neck.
Place marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1 (right side): Purl to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 1 inch from pick-up round.
With wrong (knit) side facing you, slip each stitch of first Neckband round onto spare needles.
Fold wrong (knit) sides of Neckband fabric together, and holding working and spare needles parallel in your left hand, use right working needle to work a 3-needle bind off, knitwise.
WEAVE + BLOCK
Weave in any remaining ends and block as desired.
Could I make this top using Louet Euroflax Sport weight?
Hi Virginia,
Thanks for your question. Yes, you can make this top with Euroflax because the gauges are similar. However, I’d still do a gauge swatch to make sure you start knitting on the right needle. Let us know how it goes and if you have any questions!
-Adam
I always love your beautiful basic and interesting design, however many times it is difficult for me to understand the how to. I’m always wishing that you make the tutorial on video….
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! Tutorials are a big request and we will keep your suggestion in mind for future projects! Thanks again!
Best,
Adam
“Starting at the underarm, pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows around the entire Armhole.”
Hi, I’m confused at this point of the instruction.
What does it mean by pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows? How many stitches should I have on the needle at the end of the first row? Do I pick up 3 stitches for 4 rows only? I’m really confused here.
Hi Chloe,
Thanks for writing in and I’m sorry this is a bit confusing! To pick up three stitches for every four rows you will pick up three stitches (one for each row going up the armhole) and then skip the fourth stitch. You’ll continue on like this until you’ve picked up all around the armhole. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Thank you for answering this post. I am still not sure how to do the armholes. I am struggling to figure out how to pick up stitches from the purlside. I am also unsure about ‘where’ to pick up the stitches – on the edge or inside the edge where the purl stitches are. (This is my first garment, so apologies for asking silly questions) I found this video — is this the a good tutorial for the armholes? https://youtu.be/N7HuRXWsnfU
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! Since this sweater is knit in stockinette stitch, our regular Picking Up Stitches tutorial should be helpful!
Best,
Julianna
A wonderful Website, a really beautiful Basic Top, with a perfect instruction. Best regards, Dora
Hi there,
Thanks for this wonderful pattern! One question – would I be able to convert it in knitting in the round after doing the hem? I am thinking of changing to the Silken Straw pattern after doing the hem of Over the top top. Thank you for all your advice. Have read through most of the comments and they are all extremely helpful.
Hi Marilyn,
It is totally possible to do this pattern in the round after completing the hem. First, you will want to complete both the front and back hems and then you’ll join them in the round, making sure that both inside hem seams are facing the inside. You can then knit the body in the round and divide for the back when you are ready. You’ll knit up the back, neck and front as in the pattern and graft the live stitches in the round to the front chest. You can also adapt the silken straw top to have a folded hem by simply incorporating it into the beginning of the pattern.
All the best,
Adam
Could I use the Mulberry Merino for this? If so how much do you think I would need for a larger size. I currently have 4 skeins – was planning to do the foxglove vest but have since changed my mind!
Hi Jenny
Thanks for your question. Yes, you can make this top with Mulberry Merino because the gauges are similar. However, I’d still do a gauge swatch to make sure you start knitting on the right needle. To knit with a single strand you will need roughly 750 (853, 961, 1073, 1190) yards of Mulberry Merino. For the largest size, this would bring you in at 5 skeins of Mulberry Merino!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Awesome! For the measurement, my chest circumference is 39.5 but with 3-5 of ease I would need to make the size 44? Is that right?
Hi Jenni,
Thanks for writing in. Yes, that is correct. For your chest size you’ll definitely want to make the 44″ size.
All the best,
Adam
Hello! I’m curious about the yardage needed – one skein of the Linen Roving is only 795 yards, so isn’t that the maximum length of yarn that would be needed (per strand, whether held with another or used alone) for the first two sizes?
Love the style of this tee, looking forward to giving the pattern a try!
Hi Nell,
Thanks for reaching out! After double checking the yardage required for each size, we found that the yarn requirements were incorrect – I am so sorry about that! The exact yardages listed by Cassy are correct, so you will need two skeins of Linen Roving for the second size of the top. Thank you so much for pointing out this discrepancy!
Best,
Julianna
Could I substitute the Habu Textiles Natural Linen you sell for the Line Weight in this pattern? I’m looking to make a cooler summer top. Since it’s fingering weight, I thought it would be an okay substitution, but I thought I’d ask before I buy it in case you have any advice. Thank you!
Hello Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! You can certainly use Habu’s Natural Linen instead of the Line Weight. This will change the texture of the fabric, but you should be able to get the same gauge. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch before jumping into the project. I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Do you think using line weight and linen quill would work? Thank you for your help!
Hi Katrina,
Yes switching to Linen quill and line weight should be fine, I would do a gauge swatch just to make sure that you get the same amount of stitches as the pattern.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Is there a way to add long sleeves on this pattern instead of the cap sleeve? Thanks!
Hello Julianna,
Thank you for reaching out! This might take a bit of experimenting along with some trial and error, but I would try picking up along the sleeve and perhaps adding some decreases as you go.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
Marilla
Do you know when your linen roving will be back in stock, or another yarn you have that could be used as a substitute?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! We love Habu yarns, but they can take quite some time to arrive in our warehouse. While we do not have an ETA, you can sign up to be notified when we get it back in! To do so, you will go to the product page, select the color and enter your email address! We will then email you as soon as we get it back in stock! In the mean time, we have several fingering weight linen yarns in stock. I think Field Linen or Kalinka would work equally well for this pattern!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I am unsure about the directions for finishing the neckline. The stitches on the back that are on the shorter needle end up looking different than the sides and from if I join them in the round. Is that the intended effect or am I missing a step?
Hello Julie,
Thank you for reaching out! Are you working on picking up your stitches for the Hemmed edge to the neckline? How exactly to they look different? Your stitches that are already on your stitches will look different on your needles, just due to the fact that the were not picked up, while all of your other stitches are. However, once you begin to knit theses stitches, they will become more uniform. I would also recommend checking out or tutorial videos for picking up stitches. I always find them to be a helpful reference.
I hope this helps and let us know if things continue to look strange.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Matilda!
Thanks for your response.
I have successfully picked up stitches on both shoulders and the front of the neckline. When I join in the round with the stitches on the smaller needle (the back of the neck) and continue knitting around, the back of the neck does not look the same. Stitches haven’t been picked up along the back. When I reach one inch, fold over and work a three needle bind off, the back of the neck
finishes differently than the shoulders and front. Is that the intended effect?
Julie
Hi Julie,
I think you might be referring to how the stitches from the back neck were live stitches, while the rest of the stitches around the neckline were picked up. This can create the appearance of a seam or line at the base of the picked up stitches, though the live stitches will continue seamlessly from the back. Does that sound right? Although the “seam” at the base of the picked up stitches will always be a bit more obvious, it should look fairly uniform after creating the hemmed edge. You could always cast off the held back neck stitches before picking up stitches all the way around the neckline if you prefer everything to look exactly the same!
I hope that helps – if not, please send us a picture at customerservice@purlsoho.com and we’d be happy to help troubleshoot this!
Best,
Julianna
Hi 🙂
Could you please send me this pattern in a size 34? The 36 will be too big, and I have tried working out the stitches using the other sizes as a guide, but I am really nervous that it wont work out.
Thanks
Karen
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have instructions for this top in a size 34; however, it is a fairly straightforward pattern! It will take a bit of experimenting to figure out the details, but I would start with casting on 93 stitches for the body, and as long as you keep all the increases and decreases symmetrical, it should work out fine!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Wondering if this will work in the Blu Sky Brushed Suri.
Hello Heather,
Thank you for reaching out! Honestly, I think Brushed Suri is going to be to thin by itself and to thick held with another yarn. You could always do a bit of experimenting with gauge to see if could get close to the patterns gauge of 22 stitches per 4 inches.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’ve been toying with the idea of making this with the Blue Sky Brushed Suri…would it work or would the stitches be too tight to enjoy that yarn?
Hi Heather,
Great question! The gauge on Blue Sky Brushed Suri is quite a bit different than the gauge that we used for this project. I think that this would result in a fabric that has quite a bit less drape than we have with this fabric. Depending on the size that you are hoping to make, you could try knitting the size down (or 2 sizes down) on a gauge that works better for the yarn but this would be a bit of trial and error.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi,
I absolutely love this pattern and would really like to try it.
I am new to knitting and have only managed scarves, blankets and headbands.
Being based in the UK I was wondering if I could use this yarn:
The Yarn Collective Portland Lace
Yarn Weight: Lace Blend
100% Merino Wool
Needles 2.00mm (US 0) – 2.75mm (US 2)
Ball Weight 100g (3.5oz)
Yarn Length 860m (941yds)
Tension 32-40 stitches to 10cm/4″
I just can’t work out what is good or bad!
Thank you for your help in advance
Hi Aly,
Thanks for the kind words and for writing in! It looks like your yarn may be a bit too thin for this pattern – both Line Weight and Habu Linen Roving are fingering weight, and it looks like your yarn is a lace weight. I would try to find something a bit heavier, but also be extra sure to knit a gauge swatch since you are substituting yarns!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I ordered 2 skeins ofPurl Soho Line Weight to make this sweater. I did not order the linen yarn. Is it ok to just use the line weight?
Hi Marian,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the gauge is based on using two strands of yarn held together, you will still need to add a second strand of fingering weight yarn in order to get the correct gauge. You could use two strands of Line Weight instead of one strand each of the Line Weight and Habu Linen Roving; however, you will need to order twice as much Line Weight to have enough yardage for the top.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
For the cast on of the front side where the neck is i have two gaps. I undid it to see if i made as mistake oe has poor tension but the gaps are still there. Is there some thing i need to do? Or will they be filled in when i add the hemmed collar?
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for reaching out! It is not uncommon to have a small hole when you use a cable cast on to add more stitches to a piece of knitting. If it is still noticeable after picking up stitches for the neckline, I would suggest using a small piece of yarn to close up the hole while you weaving in your ends.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello,
Do you have an alternative yarn suggestion for the Habu yarn that is less expensive?
Thank you!
Hi Lan,
Thanks for the question! I think that Sweetgrass would be a nice option! You would need 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins. It does have more drape, less structure and a very different hadn than the Habu but does come in a bit lower in price!
Best,
Cassy
I do not understand which back pattern I repeat based on these instructions… Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 18 ½ (19, 19 ½, 20, 20 ½) inches from hemmed edge or approximately 1 inch shy of desired finished length from hemmed edge to shoulder, ending with Row 2.
Do I repeat the rows where I am reducing with k2 purl k2 then p2 knit p2. I don’t see another back section but it feels wrong to keep decreasing.
It’s my first garment, apologies if this is clear in the pattern.
Hello Dawn,
Thank you for reaching out! You are repeating these two rows;
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.
Row 2: K2, purl to last two stitches, k2.
So your instincts are correct, there are no decreases.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hallo, is it possible to get the wonderfull pattern also in the German language???
Greatings from Germany
Hi Anita,
Thanks so much for writing in! At present, our patterns are only available in English. We certainly appreciate the request!
Best,
Julianna
Is there a video to help me learn to do this ‘Slip each stitch of that row onto the spare needle.’
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’pt have a video for this technique, but hopefully I can explain it for you! Slipping stitches is simply moving them to another needle without knitting them. To do so, you will hold the empty spare needle in your right hand and insert it into the indicated stitches, one at a time, purlwise, and move them over without working them.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Is it like this? https://vimeo.com/23092274
Or Is it like putting in a lifeline?
Hi Dawn,
It would be more similar to putting in a lifeline, except you will be moving the live stitches onto an empty needle without knitting or purling them.
Best,
Julianna
I got this! Thank you so much for the response.
Hi there,
I think the 36″ chest circumference might be a bit big for me. Do you have recommendations on how to size the pattern down?
Thanks!
Nicole
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t currently have the resources to grade this pattern down for smaller sizes, but we really do appreciate that bodies come in all shapes and sizes! I will certainly pass your request along to the design team. We greatly appreciate your feedback!
Warmly,
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
Thanks for the reply! Another question I have….I know the purl side is the “right” side on this pattern, but if I want the knit side to be the right side, will that disrupt the pattern greatly?
Thanks,
Nicole
Hi Nicole,
Of course, I’m happy to help! This top is actually reversible as written, so you can wear it whichever way you prefer without making any changes!
Best,
Julianna
I am enjoying knitting this top but I can’t go any farther because I don’t know what to do! I am ready to “Hem Front Bottom Edge”. The directions say, “With wrong (knit) side facing, find the row that measures 2 inches from the working needle. Slip each stitch of that row onto the spare needle.”
Do you have a video or easy way to explain to me how to put these stitches onto the spare needle. I am a visual learner and would really appreciate a video or pictures of how to do this.
Thank you so much for any help you can provide. I am anxious to finish my top!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, our Knit Hem Tutorial video will show you exactly what to do!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi everybody,
I would really like to knit this beautiful top (and fight my way through the instructions in English), but ordering the yarn from overseas is too expensive for me.
Can you please recommend a suitable yarn that is available in Europe?
Kind regards
Jeanette
Hi Jeanette,
Thanks for reaching out! Although I don’t have an exact recommendation for which yarn to use as I am not familiar with what may be available in Europe, you will simply need 2 fingering weight yarns of your choice! You will need approximately 988-1482 yards of Yarn A and 781-1562 yards of Yarn B depending on the size you plan on using!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi,
Can you please recommend the best yarn to substitute in for Habu Linen Roving. I found some recommendations in the comments but most of the yarns are no longer in stock stock.
Thank you!
Robin
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend using our Field Linen or Linen Quill! I always recommend to make a gauge swatch prior to beginning to unsure that you are consistent with the pattern.
Please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello!
I recently bought several skeins of Hedgerow House Wren because I just love the look of it. Now I’m struggling trying to find a pattern that appeals to me that is simple enough for my limited knitting skills. What would you think about this pattern in Hedgerow (w/o holding two yarns together) — assuming, of course, that I can get the gauge correct?
Thanks for the emotional support!
MAT
Hi Merrilyn,
I think that Hedgerow would be a wonderful yarn for this pattern! You should be able to get the gauge holding a single strand, though you might need to size up or down your needles.
All the best,
Lili