Bias Stripe Wrap
Habu Textiles’ Wool Crepe comes with an interesting note on the label, “This yarn will pleat.” Huh? Intrigued, I knit a square swatch in stockinette stitch and washed it. To my surprise, the square emerged from the water a diamond!
And so I set out to embrace the wonkiness of this yarn. I knit alternating stripes of stockinette and reverse stockinette, blocked the finished rectangle, and then watched as the Wool Crepe transformed into an alternating bias pattern with zigzag edges. This effect is easily explained by the fiber’s spin, which is known as “over-twisted,” but a rational explanation doesn’t make this yarn any less surprising and wonderful! Try it and end up with a perfectly seasonal, totally beautiful Bias Stripe Wrap! -Gina
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Materials
- 6 cones of Habu Textiles’ Wool Crepe, 100% wool. Approximately 875 yards required. This color is Charcoal. Please note: The yardage for this yarn can be a little inconsistent and the gauge can be tricky to accurately measure, so you may want to buy a 7th cone to be on the safe side!
- US 6 (4 mm) straight or circular needles, any length
Shop our wonderful collection of fingering-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
NOTE: This pattern is designed specifically for this yarn, which is an over-twisted yarn. If you substitute with a regular yarn, the wrap will not have a zigzag shape.
Gauge
- Before blocking: 28 stitches x 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
- After blocking: 32 stitches x 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Size
Approximately 12 inches wide x 55-60 inches long
Pattern
Cast on 120 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 and all subsequent rows: * K20, p20, repeat from * to end of row.
When you are nearly finished with the sixth cone, bind off loosely in pattern.
Weave in the ends and block. Here’s how…
Fill a bucket or basin with room temperature water. While the water fills the basin, add a small amount of mild soap. Submerge the wrap into the water, and leave it alone to soak for at least 15 minutes. Empty and refill the basin, then re-submerge the wrap for another minute. Remove the wrap and squeeze out the extra water (do not wring or twist). Extract more water by rolling the wrap in a towel and squeezing. Finally, lay the wrap flat to dry. If you want, use a blocking board and pins to make the points of the scarf extra pointy (we didn’t). Even without pins, you can gently stretch the wrap to make it slightly longer or wider. Allow the wrap to air dry and enjoy!
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I’ll be knitting this. How do you get the points in the scarf? The pattern instructions, as far as I can see, does not ive these instructions.
Hi Claudia,
Thanks for writing us!
This yarn is an overtwist yarn. The extra twist in the yarn causes the fabric to knit up on the bias. The points are made because the yarn shifts to the left on the stockinette sections and to the right on the reverse stockinette sections. It’s a little hard to understand without having knit with this yarn before, but once you get going, you see the bias forming right away. Please note, this pattern will not work with a regular yarn. It will only work with an over twist yarn. Let me know if you have any other questions! -Gina
This is remarkable! Any idea what would happen if one were to begin this pattern with a provisional cast on, and end it with a Kitchener join, using the specified yarn?
Hi Susan,
Thanks so much for writing us.
It is totally incredible – the zig zag edges fit together perfectly, like zipper teeth! You’d have a beautiful seamless cowl if you started with a provisional cast on and joined the edges. You’ll still get the alternating sections of bias. The zig zag will make your join totally invisible. I know this project is really hard to conceptualize – it’s just so unbelievable that you can get this effect with such little effort! So please let me know if my explanation doesn’t make sense, or if you have more questions. Happy knitting! -Gina
This is so intriguing! The fact that you get something so interesting out of such a simple knit is pretty amazing!
Hi Cyndi – I ‘m still amazed myself! It’s pretty cool. -Gina
This doesn’t seem to be the complete pattern. K 20 P20? For the Bias Stripe Wrap??
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for writing us!
I know, it’s really hard to believe it, but that really is the full pattern! You basically knit an enlarged rib pattern, and the yarn makes each stripe on the bias. The yarn is an over twist yarn, so it slants to the left on stockinette sections, and to the right on reverse stockinette sections. It’s hard to fully understand until you knit with this yarn and see it for yourself! It’s pretty awe inspiring. Let know if I can clarify more! -Gina
Hi! I love this look: you mention that the yarn is possibly (?) what gives it the bias and triangles at the ends. Will this work with another yarn? If it will, what kind of yarn should I look for? Thanks for any guidance. I love this and it’s so easy!
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for writing us!
It’s definitely the yarn that makes each section bias without knitting any shaping (Like make one and k2tog). This type of yarn is called an over twist yarn. I haven’t seen any over twist yarns not made by Habu. Sometimes beginning spinners make over twist yarn, but usually it’s by accident. Habu makes another over twist yarn that is silk and super beautiful. We don’t carry it just yet, but I’ll suggest it! If you use a yarn that is not an over twist yarn, this wrap will turn out as a rectangle with stripes going the long way. Let me know if you have any further questions! -Gina
I am a new subscriber to your site and have enjoyed everything so far! The wrap looks easy enough for even me to try, but my question is, how do you get the points at each end if the pattern is just knitting with no shape? Am I missing something?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing us with your question! This yarn is an over twist yarn. The extra twist in the yarn naturally causes the fabric to shift into bias. The fabric shifts to the left on stockinette sections, and to the right on reverse stockinette sections. It’s totally fascinating, but hard to grasp if you haven’t knit with it before. If you substitute with a regular yarn, the wrap will be a rectangle with stripes going the long way. Let me know if this makes sense! -Gina
That’s so interesting that the yarn does it! I love how you embraced the wonkiness of the yarn to create something beautiful.
Thanks Becca! It’s a really fun project.
when will you be getting more of the charcoal?
Hi Jackie,
Thanks for writing us! More charcoal is available for preorder now! Please let me know if I can help you with this. Happy knitting -Gina
Gina how do I order this overtwist yarn?
I live in South Africa ?
Sounds really interesting and I’d like to try it !
Many thanks,
Gisela
Hi Gisela-
We ship all over the world! For our international shipping rates please click here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/shop/shipping
And if you’d like to discuss it further you can contact the webstore directly at [email protected]
Thank you!
Molly
I am an elderly woman with limited mobility and I enjoy knitting to relax plus knitting garments to wear for my loved ones? I am so thankful for your patterns; your patterns are the best!
My deepest thanks, DR
Hi Donna,
Thanks so much for your kind comment. You’ve really warmed my heart. It’s great to hear you enjoy our work. I will pass this comment on to my colleagues. All my best, Gina
Beautiful design and color! Do subsequent washings change the shape further?
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing us.
The shape should not change drastically after more washings. Once you’ve washed it, the shape is pretty set.
Happy knitting! -Gina
Love this beautiful and unique wrap. I was in Manhattan today and had to stop in your store to get this wool crepe. Habu’s yarns are so unique. I see them, am fascinated but then don’t know what to do with it. The latest series of patterns using Habu yarn are beautiful and just right for the season. Thank you for inspiring me to keep knitting.
Hi Betty,
Thanks so much for your kind compliment. Habu Textiles’ yarns can be a bit of a puzzle, but their exquisite beauty makes them so rewarding to work with. I usually knit tons of swatches and then project inspiration comes from there. I hope you enjoy knitting this! All my best, Gina
Absolutely brilliant use of this special yarn. As soon as I figure out which color I want I will be ordering. Wonder how it would look striped with a skein of each color?
Hi JennySue,
Thanks so much for writing us! I’m ecstatic you’ve suggested knitting this in one skein of each color!!! I was hoping someone would ask what stripes in this yarn would look like. I made a tiny striped swatch in this yarn, and the stripes make a chevron pattern! It’s totally cool! You should do it. I mean, no pressure, but I’d love to see how this comes out. Please send me a picture if you end up making it. Happy knitting! -Gina
What about two skeins/color? I am thinking about the two blues and the grey..or would it work better to do 6 different colors?
Can’t wait to start this!
Hi Kim,
Thanks again for writing us!
I LOVE the idea of doing the two blues plus the gray. I’ve been seeing so much mixed denim for summer and it would refer to that trend and transition so well into fall. 6 different colors would be great too, but those 3 colors in particular look really nice together.
I hope you enjoy! -Gina
I am moving ahead with the stripes–do you have suggestions for the best way to add the new color? If I were to knit a full row, would I then reverse the pattern? Purl 20, knit 20?
Hi Kim! It’s exciting that you’ll be working the stripes! You won’t have to reverse the pattern when changing colors and will just work each row the same: *K20, p20, repeat from * to end of row. When adding a new color, you’ll just decide how wide you’d like your stripes to be and work that number of rows. When you’re ready to change colors, you’ll then just add the new color at the start of a row and work the same number of rows as the previous stripe (if you want them to be the same length). Does this make sense? Let me know if you have any other questions and good luck!
So just to clarify–just add the new color and follow the pattern at the start of the row? Will that create a line in the knitting with the new color?
Hi Kim,
Yes, you’ll add the new color at the start of a row and follow in pattern. You will see a change when you add the new color (and I think that’s what you mean by creating a line? Especially in the first color change row of the purl sections), but if you stay in pattern, it should look purposeful and correct. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any other questions! Thanks for writing!
Love this new bias striped scarf but confused about the needle size. The pattern lists a Size 6 but the yarn itself calls for Sizes 1-3. Please advise.
Thanks
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing us with your question.
I always think of needle size as just a suggestion. I change the needle size to get the effect I want. That being said, I’m always happy to explain when something doesn’t sound right or is atypical! I tried a variety of needle sizes with this yarn. Habu suggests using a large needle, like a US #11 for this yarn. I found that the fabric would shrink a lot when it was knit too loose. Conversely, the fabric didn’t drape well on smaller needles, not to mention the wrap would take forever to knit on a #1 needle! I like the gauge loose enough to drape and have a soft feel in the hand. Using a #6 needle gave me the perfect not too tight gauge. Let me know if that makes sense! -Gina
The orange habu wool crepe appears to be gold in the photo. I was wondering which is more accurate – the photo or the name? Would hate to be expecting one and receive the other!
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for writing us with your question! The Orange Habu wool crepe has kind of a marled look. It’s a plied yarn, about 2/3rds of the plies are a light yellow, the remaining 1/3rd are orange. Overall, the color appears like a mustard or kind of a darker gold. If you want more of a yellow, the Cream color is a very pale yellow. Please let me know if that helps! -Gina
I also would like to thank you for this challenging pattern. I have followed along with comments and learned a lot. I want to respond to Bonnie’s question regarding color. I ordered the orange or gold (I hope I’m not surprised) because I see more gold than orange so I’m going with this color. I have another what seems like a simple question. When I knit a rectangle in stockinette, I will then join another skein and begin knitting in reverse stockinette and change back to stockinette with the next skein. Thank again for your tremendous effort. – Mae
Hello Mae,
Please let us know how you like the golden color! We’re glad you like this pattern also!
As for your stockinette question, it sounds like you are joining the new color of yarn on the ‘wrong’ side or purl side instead of on the ‘right’ or knit side of the work. That works just fine! As long as you maintain the orientation of the knit and purl rows, you will be successful!
Keep up the good work! -Alyson
I am wondering if this could be adapted as a wrap (longer and wider). Has anyone played with it in a longer and/or wider size?
Thanks!
Hi Ginger,
You can make this in any size, and the stripes can even be in other sizes! If you want to keep the stripes the same width, 20 stitches wide, just make sure you cast on a multiple of 40. If you want to change the width of the stripes, remember you need to have an even number of stripes. Other than that, the sky is the limit! There’s so much possibility in this yarn. Thanks for writing us! -Gina
I wish this came in more colors.
Hi Defarge,
Thanks for writing us. I do too! If we decide to carry more colors of this yarn, would you like to be notified? Let me know, and I’ll add you to our notification list. -Gina
Do you have a distributor in South Africa? I know you have an online store but postage cost probably prohibitive.
Hi Shelagh,
Thanks so much for writing us. We don’t have a distributor in South Africa, but we do ship worldwide. You can check the postage price before you check out, in case it’s too much. Kind regards, Gina
I ‘launched’ this project this morning using Habu’s wool crepe yarn, which comes wound on cones. I tried putting the cone on a spindle and having the cone rotate to remove the yarn for knitting. I also tried placing the spindle on a table, keeping the spindle stationary, and removing the yarn in a upwards spiral. In both instances I ended up with an utter mess because the yarn twisted upon itself making knitting impossible. I am not a novice knitter and have used (and adored!) Habu yarns for years. Before I ruin yet another cone of yarn, might you be able to tell me what I am doing wrong? With thanks, Jane
Hey Jane,
Thanks for the comment! This is a common issue with this yarn. With cones of yarn I always recommend anchoring the cone directly below the knitting so you can pull the yarn directly up on the cone. We recommend wedging the cone over a full bottle of wine (or spirits) and placing that between your feet while you knit. Also try not to pull a lot off the cone at a time as the yarn will spin on itself if there isn’t enough tension on it. It is tricky to work with the over-spun yarn but it is also the quality that makes the design possible!
I hope this helps and feel free to respond if you need anymore tips!
Good Luck!
Jake
Just got this yarn yesterday. I am two inches into it and wanted to know if you can suggest a way so the yarn doesn’t twirl up? I am spending lots of time gently tugging at it to smooth down the yarn. Love this concept, but would love some guidance. Thanks
Hi Deena,
Thanks for writing us with your question! This happened to me when I was knitting as well. My solution was to not pull more yarn than I needed off the cone, but rather keep it kind of taut coming off the cone. Some little loops may form in the fabric but these mostly go away with blocking. The best way I found to knit from the cone was to place it on the neck of a big (full) bottle of tequila. Then I placed the bottle by my feet while I sat on the couch to knit. The bottle keeps the cone from rolling around and the yarn can’t twist much when it’s only traveling a short distance to your hands. Let me know if that helps! -Gina
Thanks! I’m going to find a wine bottle to use. I’ve worked about 3 inches on mine and the twisting got in the way so it really slowed me down. I was going to ask the same question!
I can’t promise that the Tequila bottle will still be full when I finish this project ;-). Thanks for the help! I will try this.
Genius suggestion! And you can enjoy the tequila as a celebration when you’ve finished the project 😀
Lovely pattern. Couldn’t wait to get started. I finished the first cone with 90 stitches (six 15 stitch columns) and my swatch measures only about 8.5 inches high. My row and stitch gauge are right on. This means that 6 cones will only get me to 51 inches before blocking with 25% fewer stitches than the original. Help!
Hi Debra,
Thank you for the comment! This project changes dramatically with blocking. The over-twist of the yarn causes the scarf to create the diagonal stitch design after blocking that causes the piece to grow significantly both in width and length. I measured our store sample of the scarf and it is about 56″ in length after blocking so I think once you block it it should stretch closer to the predicted size. I would have expected the piece to measure a little longer since you did a quarter less stitches than instructed but the blocking could be dramatic enough to work it out.
I’m sorry that I can’t give a more definite explanation but I’d love to know what happens after it’s blocked. Feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I have just completed the first two skeins and the length is between 13 and 14 inches, which will mean my length will max out at 40-44 inches….according to the Habu web site this yarn will shrink approx 30%. How does yours end up 60 inches long? My gauge is in line with your figures. Am I going to need more yarn???
Hi Kim,
Thank you for the comment! The fascinating part about this project is how much it changes in the blocking. Since the over-twisted yarn creates that diagonal effect it adds a significant amount of length to the scarf. If you are concerned, check that you are getting the same gauge before blocking as specified in the pattern. Also if you block it and decide you would like it longer you can drape it over a drying rack to dry it will stretch in length as the yarn is fairly malleable.
I hope this helps and feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I’ve been following the thread about dimensions of this piece after blocking. In two responses you say that the wrap lengthens significantly in the blocking process. However, if you refer to the project notes that Gina provides on stitch and row count both before and after blocking, it appears that the wrap actually shrinks both in width and length in the blocking process, e.g., 28 stitches per 4″ before blocking and 32 stitches per 4″ after blocking. Same with the row counts. Something is amiss. Can you clarify? Thank you!
Hi Jane,
Thank you for responding. You are absolutely correct, the yarn will shrink especially in stitches per inch. However in the length of the project it actually will end up slightly longer because of how the diagonal chevron effect happens. While the rows per inch refer to the yarn itself shrinking, the overall dimensions change because of the bias factor and can be elongated by letting the piece dry over a drying rack rather than laid flat. I apologize for the confusion, this is a particularly tricky pattern to explain how blocking effects the piece.
I hope this clarifies my previous comment and please feel free to respond if you are still at all unsure about this explanation!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I purchased the silk crepe from Habu (on sale, no less) and haven’t yet started this wrap but wonder if you know details of blocking that yarn – is it different from the wool crepe for blocking purposes?
Hi Nancy,
Thank you for the comment! I have actually never used the silk crepe from Habu so I am not sure how the yarn construction will compare. I would predict that if the silk is overspun enough to create the bias effect in this project it will not be as drastic of an effect as the wool crepe due to the elastic quality wool contains naturally. I am very curious how it will work out though so I would do a test because it could be magnificent! I wouldn’t change the blocking instructions at all, you could soak it a little longer if you’d like but it should not be necessary.
I’d love to hear how that works out and feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I started the scarf/shawl with the Habu silk crepe and the recommended #10 but it’s pretty loose. Habu states “Please try working with a larger needle. It needs a room to move.” I’m not really sure what that means. I got 10 cones, which is about 880 yards but, of course, there’s a knot on the first cone that comes just short of the end of a row, so there’s some wasted yarn. Do you think this design will look OK in a much looser fabric? As you suggested below, I don’t think I want to swatch and block as I don’t have yarn to waste.
Hi Nancy,
Working the silk crepe on a larger needle just helps keep the stitches a bit more open and helps the resulting fabric feel more supple overall — I think that’s what they mean by “room to move,” (as opposed to a tighter, more solid knit). We were able to try this pattern with the wool crepe on a size 6 needle and see the result, but given the unique reaction the wool crepe has to being blocked, it’s a bit harder to predict what the pattern might look like with a different yarn and needle size. I completely understand your desire not to use yarn to create a swatch, but in this case, even a small one may be very useful — just to make sure you’re getting the look and feel that you want. The silk crepe is lovely and I’m sure anything that you knit with it will be beautiful — but knowing exactly what the result will be can come only in working a bit of it up. I wish you good luck and would welcome any further questions you may have! Thanks for writing, Kristy
Also wondering if you can re-use the yarn from the swatch after it’s blocked.
Hi Nancy,
Thank you for the comment! Normally I would say yes to this question, however with this project since the blocking creates such a dramatic effect and changes the quality of the yarn so much I would not recommend using it once it’s been blocked. It should be fine to use for another project but I think the bias effect in this wrap will be lost if the yarn has been pre-washed.
I hope this helps and feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Good Luck!
Jake
I am a ‘senior citizen’ (so they tell me) I have been knitting all of my life. Every time i try one of your patterns, i learn a new skill or a better way to do what i already know. I love what i keep learning. Now i am having a devil of a time casting these 120 stitches on and getting my first couple of rows established. do you have any hints or must i just persevere? Also i appreciate this comment section and the quick reply to my many questions!
Hi Carolyn,
Thanks for writing us, I’m so glad you have enjoyed our patterns! This project is a little tricky because the yarn is overspun, which is what creates the finished bias effect, but also causes some difficulty while using it. I recommend trying to pull as little off the cone at a time and just being patient and taking your time in the beginning especially. If you can also anchor the cone by placing it over a full bottle of wine and sit with that between your knees pulling no more than the necessary amount of yarn off the cone at a time it will go smoother!
I hope these tips help and feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
It also took me several tries to get this going correctly. I finally added a stitch marker every twenty stitches as I cast on and I am happy to report I am well on my way. This comment section is invaluable–am also using a wine bottle to hold the cone of yarn and it’s working perfectly. I cannot wait to see how it turns out!!
I love the simplicity of this pattern. I purchased the over twist yarn, but am having a difficult time while knitting keeping the yarn from twisting and tangling. Any hints as to how to keep this from happening?
Thank you,
Diane
Hi Diane,
Thank you for the writing us! A lot of people have had a little trouble with this yarn so we have a few tips! I would anchor the cone on some kind of full bottle, a full wine bottle works great, and sit with it between your legs while you knit. Also if you can pull as little off the cone at a time as possible it will stop the yarn from twisting on itself and make the project go smoother! This project is definitely one to be done at home or when you can be stationary, not great for traveling!
I hope this helps and feel free to write back if you’d like anymore tips!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
How can there be more stitches after blocking?
Hi Ann-
I’m not sure I understand your question… there are not more stitches after blocking. Can you clarify what you mean?
Thanks!
Molly
I have a question — if you wanted to make a thinner scarf — could you cast on 40 or 60 and follow pattern? If so how much yarn would I need?
Thanks!
Hi Margaret,
It would absolutely work to make a thinner version of this piece and to do so exactly as you suggest above, by casting on a smaller multiple of 20 stitches. If you cast on 60 stitches, that would be exactly half of the cast on called for in the pattern, and a safe estimate of the yarn you’d need would be approximately 3 cones (to achieve the same length). Good luck and thanks for writing, Kristy
How soft is this wool-crepe yarn?
Hi Sue,
The wool-crepe is a sturdy, smooth feeling yarn and although I would not describe it as “soft,” it is not scratchy or at all unpleasant to have around your neck. Thanks for writing!
Kristy
What if I don’t want a 12 inch wide wrap? Will the design still work if I were to cast on only 80 stitches? It’s gorgeous! Thank you!
Hi Melissa! The design would absolutely work with 80 stitches instead of 120. You’d simply cast on 80 and work the pattern same way: Row 1 and all subsequent rows: * K20, p20, repeat from * to end of row. Good luck and thanks for writing!
Thanks for the quick reply. I have to admit to having purchased the yarn directly from Habu because they had what I wanted in stock… I’m sorry. But, I did tell them that I was purchasing it because of your pattern and your promotion and praise of their yarn.
Hi Melissa! Thanks again for writing and good luck with the wrap!
the project looks very interesting and I’d like to try it but is the wool easily available from any wool/craft stores?
cheers nogi
ok it’s in usa?
Hello Nogi,
This yarn is unique and made in Japan by Habu, a company based in New York City. Take a look here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9450-Habu-Textiles-Wool-Crepe
If you prefer to buy it in person and not online, try and find a yarn with the similar gauge for the pattern and you’ll be able to make a similar sized shawl. Unfortuantely the zig-zag technique is dependent on the structure of this particular yarn, so it would be hard to find a perfect alternative.
Hope this helps! -Alyson
Hi,
I love the effect and the delicate look of this scarf and must make it.
However,
I live in New Zealand and can’t get this yarn here. What other yarn would work or should I ask for?
Hello Theresa,
You can find this yarn here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9450-Habu-Textiles-Wool-Crepe. If you prefer to purchase it in person and not order online, make sure to find some laceweight yarn that can yield a similar gauge. Note that since this Habu yarn has a specific structure, that’s what makes the zig-zag effect. Normal yarn won’t create that shape as effortlessly.
Thanks for writing! -Alyson
Can this beautiful project be done with only four “panels” rather then the six I make out in the photo? I’d prefer a thinner width scarf (Texas weather!).
Hello Jacqueline,
Yes you can! Each “panel” is 20 stitches wide, so if you want to subtract two panels, subtract a total of 40 stitches from the cast on edge.
Enjoy! -Alyson
I don’t suppose there is a yarn that isn’t wool that would work this way? I can’t wear wool but love the pattern.
Hello Suzanne!
We’re not sure if there is another yarn in the same gauge that has a similiar spinning technique. With appropriate shaping you could create the same zig zag pattern on the edges of the scarf, but that would require a whole re-design of the pattern.
Throughout your search just make sure to pat attention to the gague of the yarn in order to yield the same sized end product. So sorry we don’t have more tangible advice! Best of luck, Alyson
do you have any idea when there will be more of this beautiful yarn available to purchase. I would like to make the bias stripe wrap in orange and charcoal.
Hello Trina,
Unfortunately since this yarn is handmade in Japan, we’re never 100% sure about when it will be available again! Always feel free to email customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com in order to request an email when it comes back into stock!
We’re so glad you like the pattern! -Alyson
I am knitting this pattern and I am almost getting to the end of the sixth cone of yarn and my piece is not anywhere near 60″ long, will it stretch when I block it? I have knitted many pieces in the past but have never used the blocking technique so I do not know what to expect. Can you advise.
Hello Lucia,
Yes! Blocking will significantly help this yarn bloom and settle into place. Since the yarn is 100% wool, it will respond very well. At the end of the pattern, Gina shares some blocking tips! Make sure you get the scarf damp and then stretch it into shape and then let it dry flat.
Let us know how it goes! Best of luck! -Alyson
Do you know of crochet stitches that would take advantage of the bias in the same way?
Hello Adele!
Since this pattern depends on alternating the fabric between stitches that are oriented to the wrong side (knits) and the right side (purls), you would want to alternate crochet stitches in the same way. I would experiment with crocheting in the front loop of the stitch for 20 stitches and then in the back loop for 20 stitches and see what the yarn does! Since the yarn is created with a special over-spun technique, it will be interesting to see how it turns out!
Have fun experimenting! -Alyson
Just curious if you tried this technique with yarn yet. And would you just single crochet?
Thank you
Hello Katie!
Are you asking for a crochet version of this pattern? Unfortunately we haven’t developed one at this time, but it would be interested to try this yarn with crochet and play with its tightly spun quality. Give it a try and let us know how it turns out! Happy stitching! -Alyson
I was curious if Adele had tried it. I just got the yarn so I’ll let you know how it goes.
Nice and cosy things , wish I could have these instructions in dutch . I should not know which I should create first …
Hello Anita!
We hope that someday we can translate our patterns in multiple languages as well! Please let us know if you have any questions about how things are written. Thanks for visiting our site! -Alyson
I really like this scarf and want to make it. I am a beginner knitter and not sure about the instructions. Can you help me? And where can I get the yarn?
Hello Tammy!
The yarn is available here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9450-Habu-Textiles-Wool-Crepe
The pattern is actually a simple combination of knits and purls–perfect for a beginner! Please let us know if you have any further questions! -Alyson
I’ve done the cast-on and knit a few rows with size 6 needles. I’m a little nervous about how lose the stiches appear. Does the yarn shrink up to provide a tighter weave once it is soaked and blocked? Could you post a picture of what the knitting looks like before it is soaked and blocked?
Hello Kellie!
How many stitches per inch are you able to get on size 6 needles? Make sure that you are getting 7 stitches per inch before blocking. Since the yarn is overspun, the water will bring the yarn together a little more after blocking. The post-blocking gauge will be about 8 stitches per inch. The best way to test your sample out would be to make a swatch and then measure it before and after blocking. That will be way more effective than seeing a photo!
Best of luck and let us know how it turns out! -Alyson
I am going to make this beautiful scarf but would like to know how the Zig-Zag was done at the ends? Please help. That is part of its allure.
Hi Kathleen-
The zig zagged edges are created by following the pattern as written here when using this particular yarn because the yarn is “over-twisted”. The whole pattern is given here and if you follow it with this yarn your scarf will look just like this!
Please let me know if you have any more questions!
Molly
Wher can I buy this yarn? I would like to make the scarf. Thank you
Hi Donna-
We sell the yarn! You can purchase it by clicking on the links listed in the “Materials” section of this pattern. Or, here is a direct link to the yarn: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9450-Habu-Textiles-Wool-Crepe
Thanks for getting in touch and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
I just finished knitting the Bias Stripe Wrap and it measured 36″ unblocked. I blocked it according to your directions and realized that I could never get it 60″ long no matter how hard I pulled on it.
Can you please give me some more directions to get it to 60″? My stitches were right on gauge.
Hello Elena!
How odd! It seems like if you used all 6 skeins and your gauge is correct, you should have been able to yield the recommended length! I’ve emailed you personally to further discuss how to figure out a way to help you make sure you have a finished product you’re happy with! Thanks for letting us know! -Alyson
Am I supposed to be knitting the bias stripe scarf with a double strand? The yarn seems so thin for #6 needles. Otherwise, I can’t wait to see how it knits up.
Hi, Carol!
Thank you for your question! You will be knitting the bias stripe scarf with a single strand. Gina, the master mind behind this scarf, tried a variety of needle sizes with this yarn. She found that the fabric didn’t drape well on smaller needles and that the wrap would take forever to knit on smaller needles! With the #6 she found that the gauge was loose enough to drape and have a soft feel in the hand.
Happy knitting!
Kumeko
How many stitches would I cast on to make it half as wide? 60? How would that affect the outcome of the wrap? Thanks.
Hello, Linda!
Thank you so much for writing in! If you want to make it half as wide you can cast on 60 stitches but you’ll want to alter the pattern just slightly so that you get symmetrical points. If you want thinner “stripes” and thus, more points, you could *K10, p10, repeat from * to end of row or, if you’d rather thicker points you could *K15, p15, repeat from * to end of row.
If you have further questions, please let us know!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Don’t know website url? What is that?
Hi, Linda!
Thank you so much for writing in. A URL is an address on a website. For example, our URL is https://www.purlsoho.com. Is there something specific that you were searching for on our website?
Best,
Kumeko
Hello
I started the bias stripe scarf and after using one cone or 125 yards my length was barely 6 inches. This was at accurate gauge. I realized that I would have a completed length of 36″ and that something was wrong! So, I measured how much yarn it took to complete a row of 120 stitches and that was 2.25 yards. I noted that I would use 1.5 yards over 80 stitches. If I have 750 yards (6 cones of yarn) then I would be able to complete 500 rows of 80 stitches, but only 300 rows of 120 stitches. According to your posted pr-blocking measurements, 500 rows would equal 55 inches of length but 300 rows would equal 33 inches of length. This echoes comments posted in !ovember by Elena. So, then I enlarged the scarf image and seem to be counting 12 or 13 stitches of knit then 12 or 13 stitches of purl. (Or, a pattern of k12, p12 across to 72 stitches,or k13, p13 to 84 stitches. And, 84 stitches would give the 12″ width measurement.
So, I am hoping that not too many people end up with a 36″ length “scarf” that cannot be blocked to 55 to 60″ by following the 120 stitch cast on. I have ripped mine out and can re-knit at the dimensions I have outlined, but ask that you review your posted pattern and save your knitters from a short wide scarf. Also, if I am wrong on this, please let me know. Thank you!
Hi, Stephanie!
Thank you so much for writing in! This is an odd situation! I am sorry that you’ve had to rip out your hard work! It seems like if you used all 6 skeins and your gauge is correct, you should have been able to yield the recommended length. I am going to consult with my collegues about what could be happening and then I will contact you at this email.
Again, thank you for writing in! I’ll be in touch!
Best,
Kumeko
Addendum
Oops! K12 p 12 for 72 stitches, k13 p13 for 78, k 14 p 14 for eighty four. The rest I think is accurate. Thanks
Stephanie
I am getting back to this project after leaving it for 6 months or so. Also needed to rip back a bit, but all is well now. I had gotten to my third cone and was wondering about the size, too, so I’m glad I checked on the helpful comments and advice. Just wondering if there are any more updates on the size issue. I didn’t measure before I ripped, but would guess I had 24 plus inches at least.
Many thanks! It’s a very intriguing pattern!
Margie
Hi Margie,
Thanks for your comment! I suggest that you wet block the scarf and hang it to dry on a hanger or drying rack. You can also pin the piece into shape if you feel the scarf will not stretch the length. Since this yarn is over spun, you have a lot of room to stretch it into the shape you desire. All the best on this project!
Thanks,
Adam
When I first started this scarf I thought this yarn was not my friend until I found the suggestion to put the spool on a wine bottle. That gives the amount of tension you need to ease some of the twist while knitting. I would suggest you put this trick right up front with the knitting instructions.
Do I knit 20 stitches, then purl 20 stitches across the 120 sts or do I knit 20 rows and then purl 20 rows
Many Thanks
Hi Christine,
Thanks for writing us! For this pattern you will knit 20 and then purl 20 across one row, creating a large rib. Hope this helps you out! Let me know if you have any other questions.
Best,
Adam
Thanks Adam – I’ve just read it properly !! Sorry.
Christine
The following info shown under Gauge does not make sense to me as follow:
Before blocking: 28 stitches x 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
After blocking: 32 stitches x 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Usually when a knitted piece is blocked, it becomes a little larger. According to the info shown, it gets smaller
Hi Renée,
Thanks for your question! Whether a yarn grows or not after blocking really depends on the yarn you are working with. In this case, the yarn is over-spun, so this could be why the gauge gets smaller after blocking. I would try a swatch and see which needle size works best for you after blocking. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Best,
Adam
Hi Hart,
Thanks for your question! I don’t find this wool itchy at all and I’ve never heard any customers comment about that around the shop. In terms of blocking, you should definitely pin each point and stretch the scarf to the appropriate length. Since this yarn is over-spun, it will tend to bounce back if not blocked aggressively.
Thanks for writing in and good luck!
-Adam
While surfing the web I discovered this scarf. I can’t wait to purchase this yarn at our local yarn specialty shop and get started knitting it. It appears to be very soft and I love peaks. After I knit it I will post my results.
I just received my order of Wool Crepe Yarn. The pattern I chose is the Bias Stripe Wrap. I began to knit and as the yarn came off the cone it twisted so that after awhile I couldn’t knit anymore. Any tips on how to minimize the twisting? I realize this is the nature of this particular yarn and I do love Wool Crepe. But it’s awfully hard to knit with it.
Thanks so much for your help!
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for writing in! You have it spot on. The overtwisted quality of this yarn is what makes the finished wrap come out with such a unique look. Gina, the designer, put the cone on top of a heavy bottle between her legs as she knit. This allowed the yarn to come off straight up and minimized the amount that came off the cone at a time. When I knit the wrap, I put the cone that I was knitting from in a ziplock bag and closed it 90% of the way. This let small amounts of yarn come off the cone at a time. I would also, occasionally, pull out a yard length of yarn and let the built up twist that was nearest the work travel down into that yard length.
While this yarn can be challenging to work with, the finished product is so worth the effort and after awhile, you will get used to working with the yarn.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Dear Cassy,
Thanks so much for getting right back to me right away with the helpful tips on Wool Crepe twisting. I can’t wait to get started and I’m sure the result will be well worth it.
Thanks again! You guys at Purl Soho are the best!
Margaret
The pattern is for circular needles. What about using straight needles. I’m a real beginner
Hi, Sharon!
Thank you for your question! You can totally use straight needles for this pattern! However, circular needles might give you a bit more working room since they tend to be a bit longer. Knitting a flat piece, like this wrap, on circular needles is exactly like knitting with straight needles. To use circular needles for knitting flat you simply finish a row, turn the work so the other side is facing you and put the needle that was in your right hand into your left hand and the needle that was in your left hand into your right hand, ready to go on the next row!
By the way, once you get the hang of it, you may find that you never use straight needles again, even for projects without so many stitches. Circular needles are just easier to keep track of (no losing one in the cushions of your couch!), and they never poke the person sitting next to you!
Again, thank you for writing in and if you further questions please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
I can’t wait to start this tonight! I was pondering as I held a cone of this yarn…. do you think that if I used a double strand. with a veeery thin second yarn, alpaca perhaps, that the twist of the HABU yarn would still create the same pointy scarf? Beautiful website! Thanks!
HI Palma,
Thanks for writing in! I can’t be sure but I would be reticent to carry another yarn along with the wool crepe as I am not certain that it would behave in the same way. You could definitely knit a little swatch with the two held together and block it. If the fabric biases, you should be good to go!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Because this yarn will “shrink” with blocking, does it matter what version of cast on is used? I don’t want to prevent the zig zag effect of the cast on edge.
Thank you!
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for the question! I would not say that the yarn really shrinks so much as it moves. You will begin to see the chevroned edge even as you knit! I would suggest using a regular long tail cast on or a backwards loop cast on. I used the long tail cast on when I knit this lovely wrap but it was a bit challenging and if you are having difficulty, the backwards loop cast on will work just as well!
Best,
Cassy
I made this scarf, and on the label of the yarn, it states that this yarn will shrink approximately 40% because of the overtwist. If I were to do this again, I would add another cone to make it a little longer.
I also found that it was hard to keep from twisting until I realized that, if I used the notch in the cone, and ran the yarn through the center of the cone, it didn’t twist as much.
My question is, since I ordered much too much yarn, are there other patterns that use this yarn?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! This yarn can certainly be a challenge. For myself, I put the cones in ziplock bags, zipped mostly closed and found that that helped quite a bit. We appreciate your tip and I am sure that others will as well! I also blocked the scarf very aggressively to get more length and found that it helped quite a bit!
I am not aware of other projects using this yarn. A quick check on Ravelry yielded only this pattern. I’d say that experimenting with some simple patterns that have a similar gauge that may work with the biasing might be the way to go!
Best,
Cassy
Hi, I purchased this yarn a few years ago and want to make this scarf. I am fairly new to knitting, so this may be a silly question. I don’t see how to knit the points. Will it “make” the points as I knit across? The 120 stitches is from side to sire, correct?
Thank you
Hello Glennice,
Thank you for reaching out! This effect is easily explained by the fiber’s spin, which is known as “over-twisted,”. Because of the he yarn biases as it is knit! You will be able to see the effect begin to take place as you knit and once you block it you can use pins to make the scarf extra pointy.
I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
I have started this maybe a hundred times. My transition from purl to knit is beautiful and the transition from knit to purl is ugly, misshapen and loose. I’ve tried pulling extra tight on that stitch & it just doesn’t work nicely. I worked about 4″ & blocked (which helped but it still wasn’t satisfactory) And hints?
Hi Jonni,
Thanks for reaching out! With the nature of this yarn, smooth transitions can be a big challenging especially if your gauge between knits and purls differs a little. This is the case for a vast amount of us knitters. With this scarf, the yarn can take quite a severe blocking and we have found that this helps quite a bit with smoothing the transition between knit and purl.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I would like to make this as an ascot, with the ends crossing or perhaps tying over once in the front. How many cones would your recommend I purchase? Thank you.
Hi Franne,
Thanks for reaching out! To make sure you have enough for a knot, I would suggest purchasing 4 cones of Wool Crepe. If it turns out that you don’t need the fourth cone, you can return it for store credit – our full return policy is located here.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m interested in knitting the Open Air Wrap, a pattern I found on your website. I’m wondering where to get the Wool Crepe yarn. I don’t see it in your store and Habu has 2 choices, N-90 Chubby Wool Crepe and N-89 Wool Crepe. I’m unable to determine if one of those is the yarn used in this pattern.
Can you help?
Hi Jacque,
Thanks for reaching out! Are you looking to knit our Open Air Wrap, or the Bias Stripe Wrap above? Our Open Air Wrap calls for Habu Silk Wrap Paper N-94 which we do still carry, but unfortunately we no longer carry the Habu Wool Crepe we used for our Bias Stripe Wrap. We don’t have a substitute for it because this wrap relies on the over-twisted nature of the Wool Crepe for the bias effect, but if you are able to find it, we used the N-89 Wool Crepe.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Could you knit the 120 stitches in the round to make a cowl, alternating knit 20, purl 20? Would you get the same biased effect?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! That should leave you with a similar affect to this scarf!
All the best,
Gianna
I wanted to make this scarf but no yarn is listed. I got on the Habu textile page and found a wool yarn that looks identical except it says n-66 linen stainless steel not wool crepe. The pattern also calls for 6 cones but the yardage on the habu page suggests much higher. Help! (And thank you!)
Hi Mendy,
Thanks for reaching out. The yarn we used for this project is Habu’s Wool Crepe, and unfortunately, it looks like Habu is no longer making this yarn. We’re so sorry about that! However, I was able to find it on Ravelry, so you may have some luck buying it from someone on that website!
All the best,
Lili