Cap Sleeve Lattice Top
I can remember lying for hours under the pergola in my grandmother’s yard. In the fall I’d watch the grid-like shadows shift across the grass as the sun moved across the sky. And in the spring I’d stare up, tracking the path of the vines weaving in and out of the lattice work structure. Empty or abundant, I loved the woven wood overhead.
My fondness towards this geometric patterning does not stop at the garden wall. It carries over to painted kitchen floors, pie crusts and, as you see here, knits! The lattice stitch I used is an organic interpretation of the woven grids and crisscrossing ridges that I find so fascinating and beautiful!
I made this Cap Sleeve Lattice Top with one of our newest (and most favorite!) yarns, MadelineTosh’s Tosh Sport. It’s a superwash merino wool, machine spun but hand dyed, with gorgeous depths of color (even in the neutrals). The pattern, like the sweater, is easy breezy, knit up the back over the shoulders and down the front, two seams and you’re done!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Watching the sparse grid of the pergola become overrun with wisteria and roses was a sure sign of the hot summer days to come. This sweater is a delightfully quick project to welcome spring and to wear right through summer. I think if I found myself sitting under that pergola right now, I’d be sporting this top, cool beverage in hand, gazing up at the greenery! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoCapSleeveLatticeTop. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Main Color (MC): 2 (2, 3) skeins of Madeline Tosh’s Tosh Sport, 100% superwash merino wool. Each skein is 270 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 500 (540, 600) yards required. I used the color Silver Fox.
- Contrast Color (CC): 1 (1, 2) skeins of MadelineTosh’s Tosh Sport; approximately 250 (270, 300) yards required. I used the color Antler.
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 16- or 24-inch circular needles, depending on size you are making
- US 6 (4 mm), 16- or 24-inch circular needles, depending on size you are making
Shop our wonderful collection of sport-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
24 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
34 (36, 38)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34 (36, 38) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Cast On Edge: 18½ (20½, 22½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cast On Edge: 12 (13, 14) inches
Note
To alter the size be sure to cast on an odd number that is a multiple of 3 plus 1.
Pattern
Back
Back Ribbing
Using the smaller needles and MC, cast on 103 (109, 115) stitches, leaving a 24 inch tail. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (Wrong Side): P1, *k1, p2, repeat from * to end.
Row 2 (Right Side): *K2, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 1¾ inches from cast on edge, ending with a WS row.
Change to larger needles.
Eyelet Row (RS): K2, *yarn over (yo), knit two together (k2tog), k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, yo, k2tog.
Back Body
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Next Row (RS): Knit.
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 12 (13, 14) inches from cast on edge, ending with a RS row.
Cut yarn leaving a 24 inch tail.
Back Lattice
Change to CC.
Lattice Row 1 (WS): K1, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end.
Lattice Row 2 (RS): Knit.
Lattice Row 3 (WS): K2, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Lattice Row 4 (RS): Knit.
Repeat Lattice Rows 1-4 until you have 6½ (7½, 8½) inches, ending with Lattice Row 4.
Back Neck
Next Row (WS): K1, (yo, k2tog) 11 (12, 13) times, bind off the following 57 (59, 61) stitches knitwise, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end. (46, 50, 54 stitches)
Front
Front Neck
Next Row (RS): K23 (25, 27) cable cast on 57 (59, 61) stitches, knit to end. (103, 109, 115 stitches)
Front Lattice
Starting with Lattice Row 3, work the four Lattice Rows until piece measures 6½ (7½, 8½) inches from cable cast on, ending with Lattice Row 4.
Front Body
Change to MC.
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Next Row (RS): Knit.
Continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 10¼ (11¼, 12¼) inches from end of lattice stitch, ending with a WS row.
Eyelet Row (RS): K1, *yo, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end.
Front Ribbing
Change to smaller needles.
Next Row (WS): *P2, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Next Row (RS): K1, *p1, k2 repeat from * to end.
Repeat previous 2 rows for approximately 1¾ inches (1 fewer row than for Back Ribbing).
Bind off in pattern on WS, cut yarn leaving a 24 inch tail.
Finish
Seam the Sides
Take your knit piece and fold it in half so that the bottom hems align. Using the mattress stitch and the tails of yarn you left, seam the rib and stockinette sides of the sweater together at the main color.
Block your new top if you want and wear it all spring!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
It's lovely, but could you give some suggestions on how to wear it – as a shirt or as a vest over another shirt?
Hi Monica-
You can wear it however you like! We like it as a shirt worn over a camisole or tank top.
Thank you for your question!
Molly
Can you post a modeled pic please? I love the design, but I'd like to see how it looks on a person before attempting it.
Love this work by Laura!!
Hi Phoebe-
We've added a picture of it on a dress form so you can see better how it fits.
Thanks for your question!
Molly
Totally gorgeous and uses one of my favorite yarns — might be time to try knitting my first non-sock garment for an adult (me!)
I have found my next project! Perfect for warmer weather…thank you for posting this beautiful piece. xo.
Wow! Love this! Do you think it is possible to knit the body in the round?
Thank you!
Veronica… You can totally knit the body in the round. I would cast on (102+102) 204 stitches. The extra stitch on both sides is for seaming, but since you wouldn't be, you can forget about that extra stitch. Right before you begin the lattice portion of the pattern, just make sure to cast on an extra stitch! Great idea. Thanks for writing in. -Laura
Any suggestions for a non-wool yarn that would work with this pattern? I have a skin allergy to wool, but it's such a cute pattern I'd love to make one for myself.
Beautiful! I can't wait to make this!
Hi!! I am getting ready to order some yarn to do this project. Did you use the entire 3 skeins for it?? Or Did you have quite a bit of leftover? I am looking at a 400 yard skein for the body and a 145 yard skein for the lattice… Or should I just double that order? Thank you!! I am super stoked to start this!!!
I love this top and would love to make it. Are their directions for 1X or 2X?
Lovely sweater! I was wondering: how can I alter the sizing to an 8 year old? I would love to try and make this sweater for my daughter… As I am not at all an excellent knitter, I am not familiar with the counting (plus I am used to count in centimeters…) Would you be able to help me out? Thanks so much!
Hi Barbara-
It's only available in small medium and large at this point. Thank you for your question!
Molly
Another fantastically beautiful pattern! Thank you so much!
Great pattern! What bind off method(s) do you recommend for the neck and the front ribbing? Thanks!
Hi Marielle, right now I only have the pattern written for Adult Small, Medium and Large. If you wanted to to size it down, just make sure to cast on a multiple of 3 +1. You could use a shirt of your daughters as a guide for height to underarm, heigh of armhole/lattice stitch, etc.. And when you get to the neck, bind off approximately 50% of your cast on number. Hope this helps. -Laura
Hi Jae. I'm happy you are so excited to knit this! As for the yardage… it depends on what size you are making. With the Small size, there was some yarn left over for both colors. With the Medium size you will use up all of both yarns. With the large, there will be some left over. Hope this helps! -Laura
Hi AB: For some non-wool options check you can check out some other similarly weighted yarns here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters%5B%5D=4
Two of my favorite non-wool options are Louet's Euroflax and Cascade's Pima Cotton.
Hope this is helpful. Enjoy the pattern. –Laura
absolutely beautiful.
i really want to try knitting one of these in the round.
I've always been a bit wary of garments, but this looks too cute to pass up.
Heather, Great question! I bound off in knit at the neck and I bound off in pattern at the rib! -Laura
hi!! first of all I'm sorry for my english, I'm a spanish native speaker so it's gets hard sometimes to write.
secondly, it's a beautiful pattern, once i saw it I went immediatly to buy the skeins.
so… i'm a fairly new knitter and i was wondering how many stitches are after the back lattice? i'm doing the large size, so I suposse it should be 115, but I've done it twice and it keeps adding a few stitches and i dont know if they're supossed to be there!!
thank you!
Hi Javi. Glad you like the pattern. As for the stitch count… you should definitely have 115 stitches after doing the lattice. Are you binding off / cable casting on the correct amounts? –Laura
I'm knitting the medium of this pattern now and I'm loving it so far! I have a question about the numbers, though. The pattern gives the length from shoulder to cast on edge as 18 1/2 (19 1/2, 20 1/2) inches. I take this to mean the total length of the garment from top to bottom, either the front or the back. When you begin knitting from the bottom, you work the stockinette section until the piece measures 12 (13, 14) inches. Then it says to work the lattice until you have 6 1/2 (7 1/2, 8 1/2) inches. As I am making the medium, if my stockinette section is 13 inches, and my lattice section is 7 1/2 inches, then the total length of my piece is 20 1/2 inches rather than the 19 1/2 as directed at the beginning. Am I misunderstanding what these numbers are saying? Thanks!
Please Please Please issue this pattern in 1x size! My daughter wants me to knit this for her and she has a 46″ bust and my brain just cannot wrap around the math that will be needed!
i am going to attempt this pattern as my first adult garment project. very excited to use my madeline tosh color, pretty in pink ,for the body. do you have any suggestions for a contrast color for the lattice? thanks!
Hi there,
I'm about to start this top and am VERY excited. I'm going to knit it in the round as you instructed in a previous comment response… but I was wondering what I should do when I get to the Lattice section? I can't get my head around- how to do this bit…?
Can I knit this in the round…? Even though the front and back are different..? Or do I knit it separately and then attach it… or are there instructions for knitting that in the round as well? (I'm also knitting this in one solid color…) Or would one start with the Lattice, knitting the back then the front, then switching to knitting in the round? Working top down.
Much help appreciate! ; )
thanks so Much!
Hey Abigail. I am 2/3 done with this and I am knitting the entire thing on a round as one piece like the directions say. I haven't had any issues at all. Its getting pretty long, but i just push it aside and keep going. 🙂 Good luck!!
Hi Abigail, if you want to knit this in the round, I recommend casting on at the bottom and working in the round (see previous comments above) until you come to the lattice portion of the sweater. At this point you can work back and forth from the back, up over the shoulders and then graft it to the front or you can work back and forth from the front and then also from the back and graft along the top of the shoulders, whichever you prefer. Hope this helps. -Laura
Hi Desirea. I just love that Pretty in Pink color! I would pair it with the Antler (or another off white) or another pink. I do love playing around with different tones of the same color. Best of luck with the sweater! –Laura
Hi Hilary. You are completely correct. The overall dimensions were wrong. I have corrected them now (18 1/2, 20 1/2, 22 1/2 inches, respectively). Thank you so much for bringing this to our attention. Hope you enjoy the sweater! –Laura
Hey! I'm almost done with the back lattice portion, and I'm a bit concerned about the shape. It looks like my lattice work is leaning diagonally…. Is that normal? Have I done something wrong? I've been following the pattern for the lattice section, but I've been doing it at random whenever I can find a minute to knit, so maybe I messed something up along the way? Or perhaps it does lean a little bit and will fix itself when the neck & front piece are done….. Any ideas/suggestions?
Thanks! Beautiful pattern & lovely blog!!!
Hi Becca. I know what you are talking about. Do not fret. Once you block the sweater and seam it up, the slant will disappear. Thank you so much for the kind words. Let us know how it goes! -Laura
Laura, thanks for you response to Becca. I just had the same problem and was ready to rip out the lattice. This is my second attempt, but when I completed the lattice for the front, I decided it was too large, so I started over. Strangely, I did not have the problem with lattice on that one. It was perfect.
I am almost finished with the lattice on the front, but had trouble telling whether it was long enough. So I have folded it in half from top to bottom, matched the lattice sections and pinned it all together at the seams. It does line up. I've sprayed it with water and will see how it looks when it dries. Think it should be okay.
One caution I would make is to check the number of sts frequently when doing the lattice. If you're off 1 st, it makes a big difference.
Thanks again for a wonderful pattern.
Hi Laura ! Thanks for this beautiful pattern. This sweater is just perfect for summer !
I'm knitting it and think i have the same problem as Becca… Except my back lattice is leaning diagonally on just one side (the left one, whereas the right one is not leaning). Is it normal and will disappear when i block the sweater ? Because i always have 103 stiches. Maybe I misunderstood a point… For the back lattice, does I repeat the lattice rows 1,2,3 and 4 or just 1 and 4 ? Until now, i repeated rows 1, 2,3 and 4 !
Thank you for your answer !
Good Morning Mademoiselle Charivari.
Thank you, I'm glad you like the sweater. You are doing it right if you are repeating rows 1, 2, 3 and 4. As for the slanting… this should correct once blocked. Let us know how if finishes up! -Laura
Hi Laura,
Thank u for the great pattern. It's my first official sweater, and just finished it. Wish I could post a pic.
Laura S.
Hi Laura,
Just wonderful! As soon as I saw it I decided I would definitely make one for me (I usualy knitt for family and friends…). I just finished it with an alternation: I don´t like ribbing hem so I used picot edge – it´s gorgeous!
Thank you all in PurlBee for the wonderful patterns and ideas you share with us! Your site is the reason I started knitting again after 20 years. I live in Greece and knitting is not as famous as it used to be some years ago, I couldn´d find intresting patterns and so I gave up. But after I found your site – which I visit everyday – I always have a nice project on the run. I WISH I COULD VISIT YOUR SHOP ALSO!!!
Thanks again,
spelanna
Hi guys,
has anyone tried starting with the lattice on provisional cast on and then knitting the body in the round top down? I'm keen to try this but find it hard to work out how many stitches to cast on for size medium or small. Thanks
ok i'm trying this as my first ever jumper for myself. i'm totally confused about the width of the main body. I have cast on 115 stitches for the ribbing, then have done the eyelet row and it's gone down to 39 stitches! am i reading the abbreviations wrong? Yo means yarn over and k2tog means knit 2 together? help!
omg, you can ignore my last comment…totally had the wrong idea of what 'yarn over' was! oh youtube, you are a saviour!!! i really hope this turns out, i've had about 5 restarts already.
Hi Bindy, Glad you figured it out. You Tube really can save the day sometimes. Holler if you have any other questions! Let us know how it turns out! -Laura
Hello there.
I have restarted the lattice portion about ten times and always have the same problem. On lattice row 3, I always end up with two extra stitches at the end of the row instead of just 1. Am I supposed to start Lattice Row 3 with KNIT 2 TOGETHER? I have recounted the number of stitches when I start this row, and always have 109, so I don't know whats happening. I just wanna wear this sweater! Thank goodness summer doesn't come to San Francisco until October! 🙂 Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!
I can see from all the comments how popular this little jumper is – and also think it's super. It's definitely on my 'to do' list. Thanks so much – delightful.
Shirley I.
Any way to get this pattern in 1X or 2X?
Hi, love this pattern! Could it be knit in the round?
Hi Janie.
Right now the pattern is only available in Small, Medium and Large. Thank you for your interest though, and perhaps soon we will have it in more sizes.
Best,
Laura
Hi Olivia,
This pattern can be worked in the round up to the lattice portion. I would cast on (102+102) 204 stitches. The extra stitch on both sides is for seaming, but since you wouldn't be, you can forget about that extra stitch. Right before you begin the lattice portion of the pattern, just make sure to cast on an extra stitch!
Hope this helps.
Laura
I'm running into the same stitch count issue as Risa (just above). My stitch count in the lattice work portion keeps fluctuating. Help!
Hi, just found this pattern and can't wait to try it out. I'm from the UK and wondered what size needles you use as the sizing here is a bit different? I can change the inchs to cms, but what mm size is it?
Thank you.
Hi Tara-
If you check out the link to the needles we suggest it includes a list of mm and UK sizes. You can see it here:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8-Skacel-Addi-Turbo-Circular-Needles
Thanks so much for your question and good luck with the project!
Molly
I am loving this new project, I decided to knit it all in one color. I am almost done with the lattice section on the back and need to add a new skein of yarn. Any recommendations, I am thinking of adding it on row 2 or 4 which is a knit row. Should I add at the end? I am worried about sewing the tails in seamlessly within the lattice.
Hi Shayne.
You have good instincts. I would add it on either Row 2 or Row 4.
I would recommend weaving in your tail using a duplicate stitch method (can be seen here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/weaving-in-ends-tutorial/). Essentially just follow the path of the yard.
I knit one in all one color and loved it, hope you love yours too!
Laura
Thanks a lot for this pattern, it has been an inspiration and a knitting obssetion lately, though it's my very first sweater. I have a doubt now I'm starting the back lattice bit:
Am I supposed to start the Back Latice in the Wrong side row? Because I dis this and the stitches in the contrast color seem really odd, not like in the picture. They show to much in the front (Right side). So I was wondering, isn't it supposed to be started in the front so the stitches only appear in the back?
I always have issues with changing yarns, so this might be a silly question…
thanks!
Hello can I make this longer to wear as a swimsuit coverup or do you have a separate pattern for that?? Thank you. This is beautiful !!
Hi Fillipa,
Yes, you start the lattice on the wrong side. The lattice portion of the sweater is quite textured. It is a garter stitch lattice rather than a stockinette stitch lattice so there is an added dimension to it.
Laura
Hi, so happy to have stumbled on this pattern, it looks gorgeous!! I am a beginner and therefore have insecurities before diving in, but am SUPER motivated having read the post trail and even more, the warm answers. Can't wait to get started!
Just one question, what kind of cast on method is used / recommended? Not sure what best matches the instructed "bind off in pattern" (which I just learned how to do on YouTube :-).
Thank you in advance for your answer, and once again, compliments to the creator of a beautiful pattern.
Hi Nami.
Great question! I used the Long Tail cast on method. It is my favorite; I definitely use it more than any other. Thank you for the kind words and for writing in.
Laura
Deanne,
Unfortunately we do not have a pattern for that. And we are currently too short on resources to write it up at the moment. You could always just knit the desired length to the underarms (where the lattice begins), but if you intend it to cover your bum, there will probably need to be some additional shaping. I am sorry to not have what you're looking for. Laura
I love this – so beautiful! Thank you, thank you for sharing this pattern!
I've been happily knitting this, my first sweater, and am at the point of working the neck; however, while my lattice looks correct, I seem to have picked up extra stitches and have 112 on my needles (I'm making size M). I'm not worried, but trying to work out how many stitches to leave for the shoulders versus binding off – should I have 25 stitches for each shoulder surrounding the neck (2×25=50 total st as in the pattern)? Or 36 (12 x [K1, yo, k2tog] = 36 x 2 = 72 st total)? I'm confused. Then of course is the question how many to cast back on. Since I knit the body of the sweater in the round, my plan was to kitchener stitch the lattice to the front, but now I have 3 extra lattice stitiches! I think I can fix the stitch count by casting off 3 more stitches than I cast back on at the neck, but I'm concerned about the pattern being off… Can you help?
Hi Joy.
Oh goodness, I have been where you are. My advice would be to rip out to where you picked up the extra stitches rather than trying to fudge it at the neckline. That way that lattice pattern will not be disrupted (or get off or shifted or strange looking) as it drapes over the shoulder.
Let me know what you decide to do and I can try and figure out how many for you to cast on. The problem there is that I am not sure you're lattice will align.
Laura
Hi Laura,
Firstly, this pattern looks so beautiful, I am eager to finish it! I have been practising different parts of this pattern before attempting it as a whole and I have been having the same problem as Christina, and ending up with an extra stitch on row 3 of the lattice. When I (yo, k2tog) I also get 3 stitches, not 2. I thought I would try to explain in detail how I get what I get what I get. Apologies is I over-explain.
I thought that yo was used to increase the stitch count by one and k2tog is used to decrease the stitch count by one. ie yo turns 1 stitch into 2 stitches, k2tog turns 2 stitches into 1 stitch, so 3 stitches becomes 3 stitches.
So on Row 3, I start with K2, after I repeat [yo, k2tog] (which is multiples of 3), I end up with 2 stitches at the end. If I do a [yo, k1], that creates an extra stitch so have followed Christina's suggestion and finish the row with [k2].
I know I must be reading something wrong, I just can't figure out which part!
Thanks for your help!
Lilly
Hi Laura,
After submitting my last post, I have just figured it out! Hopefully this might help others as well. I was reading [yo, k2tog] as two separate stitches when they are two parts of the same stitch! I now understand how it is 2 stitches and NOT 3, best explanation is this you tube I found http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngiIIlvy3jY
Thanks again!
Dear purlbee team,
I changed the size of this top and cast on 76 stitches. Anything was fine till I started the lattice… When I work according to your description, I cannot repeat yo, k2tg till the end of the row but have one stitch left – which seems quite reasonable. Same with lattice row 3… I have two stitches left instead of the one I am supposed to have. I think, my cast on is wrong – but it is a multiple of3 plus one, just as you said… Can you please help? Thank you so much!I changed the size of this top and cast on 76 stitches. Anything was fine till I started the lattice… When I work according to your description, I cannot repeat yo, k2tg till the end of the row but have one stitch left – which seems quite reasonable. Same with lattice row 3… I have two stitches left instead of the one I am supposed to have. I think, my cast on is wrong – but it is a multiple of3 plus one, just as you said… Can you please help? Thank you so much!
Hi Kerstin.
Have you been double checking your stitch count at the end of each row? People have been picking up extra stitches by accidentally yarning over too often.
Are you knitting one at the beginning of Row 1?
Are you knitting two at the beginning of Row 3?
It's hard to know exactly where you are getting off, but if you are using a multiple of 3 + 1 (which you are), and following the pattern correctly, I am not totally sure what is happening without seeing it.
Please write back with more details or questions. I'd like to help sort this out for you.
Laura
Hi Laura,
I had to take out several rows several times earlier in my lattice work to correct an error, and I don't think I can bear to do that again! I'm about to board a plane and give it a go on my own, reducing my stitches in the cast off, and adjusting my pattern if needed to maintain the flow of the lattice. At worst I could add some stitches in the main body before I join the lattice…
Dear Laura,
Thanks for responding that quickly. I indeed checked the number of stiches before I started the lattice and it – still – was 76. The longer I think about it, the more I get the impressn that in needs to be an uneven number of stiches, being a multiple of 3 plus 1. So I will give it another try tomorrow with 79 stiches cast on. Or do you consider this a stupid idea?
Thanks a lot for your help!
Kerstin
I have started this gorgeous sweater in a merino/silk/bamboo blend. I am going to knit it in the round. If I do this and decide to do the lattice on the back and then the lattice on the front (from the bottoms up, if that makes sense), do I do both lattice sections the same and then join at the shoulders? And when I add in the extra stitch for the lattice, where do you suggest I add it in? At the beginning/end?
Thanks for any helpful suggestions!!!! I can't wait to finish this so I can start on the cable back shell 🙂
i think I need to clarify some things on my earlier post . . . to knit this sweater in the round, I cast on 204 sts, placing a marker where I joined and another after 102 sts. This is where I will divide for front and back. When I did the eyelet round i did a k1, *yo, k2tog to the halfway point, then repeated the k1, *yo, k2tog to the end.
When I am ready to do the lattice, where do you suggest adding back the extra st . . . before or after my markers? Then I will continue my lattice on the back to the neckline and do the same for the front (continuing from the bottom up to the meckline) and join the two pieces at the shoulder. I hope this makes a little more sense 🙂 Thanks again, Laura!
Hi Judy….
As for your first question: No. Work in the round up to the point of the lattice, then work the lattice from one side (let's say the back) up and over the sounders and then graft the lattice to the stockinette of the other side (let's say the front).
As for your second question: You can add it wherever you'd like, either before or after.
Let me know how it goes!
Laura
Dear Laura,
Casting on 79 worked perfectly well. So when altering the cast on one needs a multiple of 3 + 1, forming an uneven number. Just to let you all know. 😉
Concerning the lattice: Am I right to knit, not to purl two together? Looks lovely, but I was just wondering, because it is a WS row.
Best
Kerstin
Hi Again Kerstin,
You are dead right!
I have edited that portion of the patter.
THANK YOU!
Laura
I have just finished my top following your pattern and LOVE it. It was very simple to knit and I know I will get a lot of wear out of it… thanks for making it available!
This is an absolutely gorgeous pattern! I just came across it, and I really desperately want to knit it!!! Sad thing is, my mom won't let me knit something that is so see-through. It's rather disappointing, but, you did a marvelous job on the sweater! It's really beautiful. (:
Is there a way to figure out how to make this into a long sleeved sweater???
Thank you
Hi Susan,
Great question.
You can add sleeves by picking up along the edges of the armholes… and then knitting down. You'll need to decrease as you go and I would end with a rib like at the bottom edge of the body of the sweater. Could be really cool. Let us know how it works out or if you have any questions along the way.
Laura
Hello Laura,
I had trouble getting gauge for this sweater, but finally got it for the stockinette after downsizing. However, I'm running short on yarn for the lattice section (I'm making size M). I'm probably one inch short in total. Would it make sense to go back up in needle size? I think my knit rows have been pretty tight. This is my first sweater and I'm learning so much. Thanks!
Hi Abigail.
Going up a needle size will definitely help get you more fabric, but it's going to open the lattice up too.
The lattice is also going to give some with blocking and wear. Be careful not to make it too long or it will fall at an awkward location on your body.
I am glad you are learning a lot. It's a great first sweater. Let us know how it goes!
Laura
What I wonderful pattern! I knit mine up in the round and it came out beautifully! And for those needing to adjust the sizing – it's just a big rectangle, so easy to make it up as needed! Here's my version: http://megmadethis.blogspot.com/2013/09/summer-stashbuster.html
Hi I left a comment in July but it still hasn't shown here…just needed clarification if the lattice pattern is meant to be skewed ? I have considerable skew on mine and everyone I have asked has said that it will get into alignment once stitched but I just can't see it happening… Is it possible that I did something wrong? Please advise as winter is newly over in Australia and I'm stalling finishing this top… By the way this was my first knitting project so possible that I misread the pattern…
Hello Martha.
I am so terribly sorry about your overlooked question (we had few days of serious technical difficulties in July, and unfortunately lost a few questions). The Lattice portion of the pattern is not skewed. The 'holes' that are created are staggered. It did slant a pinch before blocking, but not too badly.
Hope this helps. Please write again and I will be sure to address any of your questions as soon as I can.
Laura
Hi Laura, I wanted to thank you for sharing this beautiful pattern.
I just finished knitting the top, I really enjoyed making it. It looks and fits very well. Thanks!!
Hi, I am on the lattice part and my work is skewing to the right (looking at it on the rs) and I can't figure out why it is doing that.
Hi Lindsey,
Some slight skewing is natural, it will straighten up when you block your sweater.
Laura
I just finished this and it looks great! Although it's a tad short on my torso and a tad too long over my bust. I followed the pattern for size Medium. I would recommend 14 1/2 inches for the stockinette body and only 6 1/4 inches for the lattice top (per side). That way it will hang nicely and still cover your bust. Hope this helps. Thanks again for this pattern – I am excited to wear this when the snow melts 🙂
Hello Purl Bee!
I've been eyeing this top for a while now and I really want to start working on it… But the yarn that I want to use is worsted weight! I was wondering how I'd go about this? I tried starting some rudimentary calculations (as I've never had any experience modifying patterns this way) and figured that if this was done with 6st/in gauge = 103 sts then 4st/in gauge = about 69 sts? Does that sound about right?
Any advice would do 🙂
Thank you!
Sheila
Hello Sheila,
As for the general dimensions, yes, that calculation you did is perfect.
Let us know how it goes or if you have any other questions.
Laura
I love the sweater plus the design too but I would like to see how to knit this almost step by step because it looks really complicated to knit.
Thanks I would really appreciate it.
Hi Emily-
Is there one part in particular you're having trouble with? This is a fairly straightforward pattern so you might just want to jump right in. Sometimes things seem more complicated as you read them than when you're actually doing them.
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Hello!
I've had a great time negotiating this sweater. I am now on the home stretch – the front ribbing. I have ripped it out twice because it didn't look like the lovely one I did on the back. Now looking at the photos here I see I was doing it correctly, but that I got creative on the back ribbing. It looks like I have done a moss stitch type rib. Using your expertise would you be able to tell me what I might have done wrong to get a moss stitch rib and how I can repeat this so that it stays consistent?
I am also wondering why the front rib and the back rib have different instructions. I can't wrap my head around it.
Many thanks in advance!
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
Without seeing the garment, it is hard to know what you did. You may have forgotten that "p1" at the start of the wrong side row, just doing (k2, p2). This would have created a sort of moss like or seed stitch like ribbing.
The ribbing has different instructions to create an even join after seaming the sides, appearing as thought the ribbing has not been interrupted.
Hope this helps.
Laura
This is so beautiful! How big around is the bust 34? I'd like to do this in a bust 32, instead of 34, possibly. Approximately how many stitches would that be? I can't wait to knit this! I'm planning on it as a little wishful-thinking-winter-knitting project.
Hi CGW,
Thanks for writing in.
The measurements given above are the finished dimensions of the garment. So this means that the 34-inch measurement given above is in reference to the actual circumference of the finished sweater. If you have a 32-inch bust, the 34-inch size will fit nicely, giving 2 inches of ease (or space) so the garment isn't tight.
For a finished dimension of 32 inches around the bust of the sweater… you can cast on 97 stitches.
So glad you like the piece.
Laura
Hi! Back again…I am loving this sweater so much! I sit and knit and think dreamy thoughts about spring weather. I got my measurements worked out and it's going to fit fine. My one question is, how do the sleeves work? I've never done a sweater pattern that has no shaping! When I sew this up, do I just stop once I get to the lattice part? Again, great work! This is a great pattern!
Hi CGW,
Welcome back! Regarding the sleeves… yes, it is as simple as sewing the sides together, starting from the bottom and going up to where the lattice begins. The opening that remains will be your armhole. Due to the lack of shaping and the gauge of the lattice stitch, that top lattice portion of the sweater will come slightly over your shoulders. I'm not sure it's substantial enough to be called a "sleeve" but it does cover the shoulders.
Thank you for writing in AND for the compliments. I do hope you enjoy working this pattern. Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hi, thanks so much for this pattern, I found it on ravelry and completed it today. I used a variegated colour for the body and a plain linen yarn for the lace. Followed many of the hints and tips in the comments here, so I knitted the body in the round then the lace flat. Three firsts achieved – my first cable cast on (thx for your instructions very clear!) and my first grafting to join the lace back to the body and my first attempt at some simple shaping, from hip to waist to bust!!! Thank you again. Nicola
Hi, I love this pattern and I am keen to knit it for my 18yo daughter.
However she has a large bust 38in and a narrow 31in waist. I don't want to knit the large size as I feel it will be too baggy, but I need a wider bust!
What to do?
I think I need to cast on extra stiches for the top third of the body.. then cast off for lattice section. Would you agree?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Many thanks Jane
Hi Jane,
I think the largest size would fit her perfectly.
If you are really worried about the waist, you could work the ribbing at the bottom for 3 or 4 inches rather than 1 3/4 as it instructs in the pattern. This will pull in the bottom farther up closer to the waist.
If you are worried about the bust being too snug at 38 inches (the same measurement as your bust) and you just want a bit more space then you could use a yarn/needle that gets gauge and is 6 inches to the stitch before blocking, but relaxes to approx. 5.8 stitches to the inch (or 23.2 to 4 inches) after blocking… putting you at a finished circumference of 39 inches.
Or of course you could make a larger size and be sure to have 121 stitches around the bust giving you a finished circumference of 40 inches.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hello and thank you for a wonderful pattern!
I am just starting on the lattice portion of the shirt while knitting in the round.
I have followed the instructions where it says: Lattice Row 1 (WS): K1, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end. I have done this on the wrong side of the garment but it has come out as purl stitches on the back. Is this supposed to happen or have I done something wrong? I am new to the lace stitches with yarnovers so I could be doing it all wrong.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Hello Rachael.
You are quite welcome for the pattern. I am thrilled you like it.
The Lattice portion of the piece should be worked flat. I imagine you worked the body in the round, but are now working back and forth in rows? I just want to be sure I fully understand where you are in the project.
This lattice is a garter stitch lattice. By that I mean that you knit on both the right and the wrong sides. It give the lattice a bit more texture and dimensionality.
It sounds as though you're doing everything correctly. The lattice pattern will take shape after a few rows and the intended texture will become more clear.
Please let us know if you have any questions though!
Laura
Hi, I just started knitting this in the round, and it's going smoothly so far. I think I understand the lattice part, but I just want to make sure. It sounds like I knit until the piece measures 12 (13, or 14) inches, and then do I just put the front sts on a holder, and continue following all the lattice instructions with just the back sts, and then graft the lattice back onto those front sts?
Thanks!
Hi Laura,
Yes, you are correct… once you've worked from the bottom edge to the underarm, you put the front stitches on hold and continue the lattice instructions on the back stitches, up and over the shoulders, down the front and then graft the lattice to the front body stitches.
Laura
Hi Purl Bee,
I love your pattern. It is exactly what I was looking for. After a long period without time for knitting I've decided to start again with something smart but not to complicated. Now I'm looking forward to a favorite summer garment.
Thanks for the trouble you took to write down the pattern and for offering it for free.
Yours, Reky
I'm slightly confused, why is the front stockinette part shorter than the back?
I haven’t looked that closely at the pattern, but it looks like you knit all the way up the back, around the collar and down the front. The measurement going up the back includes the ribbing, but while you knit down the front, the ribbing is yet to be knit. Would that make them equal?
Hi Linda,
Sounds like you’ve looked quite closely! You are absolutely right in your assumption. The fronts and back are even in the end. The back measurement does include the ribbing and that front measurement, is before working the ribbing… but it all comes out equal!
Thanks for checking.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
Approx yardage used for MC & CC? For a small, were 2 full skeins of Tosh sport (270 yd) too much? just enough? I'm thinking of trying a knitpicks cotton sport, but not sure how many skeins I"ll need.
Hi Elizabeth.
The stockinette portions are equal lengths on the FRONT and BACK. I think I may know where the confusion lays though.
First you work the BACK. You rib for 1 3/4 inches and then work in stockinette stitch until the piece measures piece measures 12 (13, 14) from the cast on edge. This includes the ribbing.
Then when working the FRONT the pattern instructs you to continue in stockinette stitch until piece measures 10 1/4 (11 1/4, 12 1/4) from the lattice stitch. At this point you will begin ribbing adding on 1 3/4 inches giving you the same total length in the FRONT and BACK.
Please let me know if you have any questions at all!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi Leslie.
For the Knitpicks, I would go with 5 skeins of the MC and you may be able to do the CC in 2, but 3 skeins would certainly se safer.
Hope this helps.
Laura
Hello Laura,
thank you for posting this lovely pattern. I can't wait to wear it. But I have one question on the instructions: I just finished with the front ribbing and changed to the main color again. In the instructions it says that you finish the front lattice with a lattice row 4 (knit). Then follows the first round wiht the main color which makes to rounds in knit (or, of course, purl). But the back lattice starts in row 1 right away with a y/o and k2tog, so the passage from main color to lattice of front and back looks slightly different. Should'nt I also stop with a lattice row 3 at the front lattice and then directly change to main color to avoid this difference?
I hope you understand what I mean. I would be glad if you could help. Thanks in advance. Greetings from Germany
Anna
Hi Anna,
Great question. Thanks for asking.
You are correct, transitioning from stockinette to lattice on the BACK you go from a MC row of knit and then a CC row K1, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end. And then, transitioning on the FRONT you work a CC row of knit before beginning stockinette in the MC.
I did this on purpose. Because you are working the lattice bottom up on the BACK and top down on the FRONT, I found that having CC row of knit before MC of stockinette actually looks more similar to the transition in the BACK, than if I have stopped with Row 3 of the lattice before working stockinette.
I encourage you to please play around with it and switch colors as you desire. This is just how I chose to work the pattern. Thanks again for writing in.
Laura
I am making this top for my daughter who has a 32" I bust. I thought by making the small it would work if it measured 34" as 2 " of ease would be ok. I am also extending the length by quite a bit since she is very long in the torso. My problem is that I believe that the top is going to be too large since it is measuring about 18" across. I see that you said to change sizes the stitches need to be divided by 3 plus 1. What stitch count do you suggest for a 32" bust (size x-small)?
Hi Sandy.
If you are working the Small pattern and have cast on 103 stitches, but are getting an 18-inch wide fabric, then your gauge is 103 stitches / 18 inches = approximately 5 3/4 stitches to the inch.
If you would like a finished dimension of 34 inches in circumference then… (1/2 of 34 inches) x 5 3/4 = 97 stitches. You need to cast on a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches. And 97 stitches is perfect.
Hope this helps.
Best,
Laura
I also plan to make this in x-small by casting on 97 stitches. When I get to the back neck section and bind off 57 stitches, would I bind off 51 stitches? Also then when I get to the front neck and should knit 23, do I knit 17? Basically, do I just subtract 6 stitches from everything the rest of the way down since I am started off with 6 fewer stitches than the small pattern?
Hi Chelsea.
When you get to this row of work…
Next Row (WS): K1, (yo, k2tog) 11 (12, 13) times, bind off in knit following 57 (59, 61) stitches, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end. (46, 50, 54 stitches)
You should do this…
Next Row (WS): K1, (yo, k2tog) 10 times, bind off in knit following 55 stitches, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end. (42 stitches)
And then when you get to the FRONT NECK, do this…
Next Row (RS): K21 cable cast on 55 stitches, knit to end. (97 stitches)
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
first of all I'd like to thank you for this amazing pattern! as a teenage knitter, its hard to find patterns that I'd actually want to wear, and for free! this might be my very first big project. thanks again!
Purl Bee
I am beginning the front body and was wondering why it is 1 1/2 inches shorter on this side?
Thanks!
Hi Alexis,
The front is the same length as the back.
BACK:
1 3/4 inches of ribbing, then stockinette until the entire piece measures 12 (13, 14) inches, then 6 1/2 (7 1/2, 8 1/2) inches of lattice… totaling approx.18 1/2 (20 1/2, 22 1/2) inches from bottom edge to the shoulder
FRONT:
6 1/2 (7 1/2, 8 1/2) inches of lattice, then 10 1/4 (11 1/4, 12 1/4) inches of stockinette, then 1 3/4 inches of ribbing… totaling approx.18 1/2 (20 1/2, 22 1/2) inches from shoulder to bottom edge
I hope this helps clear things up. Please let me know if you have any questions! Thanks for writing in!
Laura
Hi guys!
You may have already answered this – I'm knitting this in the round but I'm a little confused about how to get lattice part going. When its knit flat, you knit over the shoulder. How do I do the top part easily in the round? Any help?
Thanks,
Keeley
Hi Keeley,
I haven't tried working this in the round, but I can take a guess at how people have tried to do it…
– work in the round up to the underarms
– divide for front and back, place front stitches on hold
– continue working up back in lattice stitch as pattern is written above, work up and over the shoulders and down the front
– graft the front lattice stitches to the front stockinette stitches
I hope this helps.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
I'm thinking of putting beads on the front lattice work…where would I put them..on which stitch? Thank you!
Hi Annette,
Wow. That sure would fancy this garment up! I have to admit I have never done any bead work before and am utterly useless when it comes to your question. Perhaps some of our other readers would have some ideas!
Sorry to not be of more help.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hello,
I know you put the work on a dress form but it still doesnt show how it would really look like on a real person. These pictures would reallllllllly help me. Hope you can help
Hi Margarete-
We can help! Here is an image search I did on Flickr that has several people wearing their finished tops! https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=cap+sleeve+lattice
Hope this helps. Please let us know if you have any more questions
Molly
No, I don’t have any more questions, thank you for answering my question though
Thank you so much for this wonderful pattern! I was so scared of knitting a top, but this was so easy to follow. I -just- finished seaming mine up and I’m so happy with it. 🙂 I love your projects so much!
(If you want to take a peek at how mine turned out, it’s on my Ravelry page AND also here: http://imgur.com/a/CSSEj )
I’ve noticed a lot of knitters have made this top knitting in the round. Is there a reason for why you originally made this pattern for knitting back and forth rather than in the round? What are the pros and cons to doing it each way? Thanks for the help/advice in advance 🙂
Hi Marcela.
Great question. Working it flat means you have to seam the sides (I used Mattress Stitch, which I love, so to me there were no cons!). Some people chose to work the body in the round to avoid seaming the sides, but the downside to this approach is that you’ll have to graft the lattice portion to the body (which requires a more complicated finishing technique).
There’s no wrong way!
Thanks,
Laura
Mattress Stitch tutorial: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/11/11/mattress-stitch-video/
Kitchener Stitch tutorial: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/11/11/kitchener-stitch-video/
Hi,
I’m about to finish the back lattice. I’m a bit confused as to why you mean by “K1, (yo, k2tog) 11 times, bind off in knit following 57 (59, 61) stitches, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end. (46, 50, 54 stitches)”
Because it seems to me as it won’t be symmetrical…
Hi Esther,
Thanks for writing in.
I made the sweater as written so the lattice pattern isn’t broken up or interrupted. This piece is meant to be sweater for a beginner and I did not want to complicate the pattern over something I felt wasn’t too grand of a detail. That said though… Definitely fee free to bind off 2 fewer stitches so that you can begin the second half of the row with k2tog before you *yo, k2tog… Just be sure to adjust the return row in relation to that modification.
Thanks for asking Esther!
Laura
I guess my question isn’t clear… When you do the (yo, k2tog) 11 times, you end up knitting 22 stitches, right? Then you bind off 57 stitches. And then, you have 46 stitches left?
Shouldn’t what is gonna be your two sleeves have the same amount of stitches? It looks like it from the pictures, so I feel like I’m missing something.
Thank you for your pattern, I love it!
Hi Esther.
Thanks for writing back in. Sorry I wasn’t understanding before.
You begin the row by knitting one, then you (yo, k2tog) 11 times… this is 23 stitches. Then you bind of 57, and then you (yo, k2tog) to the end of the round. At this point you’ll have 46 total stitches, 23 stitches on either side of the bound off stitches.
Hope this helps.
Please let me know if I’m still not answering your question. I really want to help figure this out with you!
Laura
Ok, that makes more sense!
Thank you so much for taking the time and explaining it several times!
Hi, I’m looking forward to making this for my first “big” project and I’m wondering, would it be possible to make the sleeves a little longer by simply adding some increases? If so, where would I need to add them?
Thanks,
Laura
Hi Laura,
To lengthen the cap sleeves, you could make increases along the edges, while you are working the lattice portion of the sweater, the fabric will widen and the cap sleeve will fall farther off the shoulder.
Hope this helps.
Laura
Hi Purl Bee,
I really love this pattern, it’s the next one on my to do list. I’ve never altered a pattern before, could you please tell me how many stitches I should cast on to make it a 32 bust? and how I should follow the pattern after that? Thank you.
Hi Cheryl.
For a finished chest circumference of 32 inches, cast on 97 stitches. Then, follow the pattern as written for the smallest size provided. Your stitch count at the end of the BACK NECK section will be 40 total stitches. Your stitch count at the end of the FRONT NECK section will be 97 stitches. Continue following pattern for the smallest size provided.
Hope this helps.
Let me know if you have questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi Purl Bee,
Thanks for this pattern, it’s so easy to follow! I would love to add long sleeves to this. Do you have any tips on how I would do this?
Thanks!
Hi Claire.
Sure! You could make the top as directed and then go back in and pick up along the armholes and knit down to the cuff, decreasing periodically so that the final circumference of the sleeve is comfortable around your wrist, or forearm, or wherever you end the sleeve.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi,
I’m currently working on this pattern and just started the front lattice. However, my entire back lattice and now front is starting to veer left. It looks fine for the left sleeve but the right side is also slanting left. Is this normal? Did I do something wrong? Please help, thanks!
Hi Tiffany.
I remember worrying about slanting when I was working this piece as well. Once I completed it and blocked it, the slanting was no longer an issue. It is a staggered lattice and directional. The fabric can play tricks on your eyes when you’re working on it. I think it’s probably fine! Let me know though if it continues to act up or if you have any questions!
Laura
Hi!! I love this pattern, I want to ask where you purchased your sewing form from? Yours look to be of quality and I would love to buy the same types
Thanks!
tina
Hi Tina.
We purchased our dress form from Superior Model Form Co. in New York. They were amazingly helpful!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
http://www.superiormodel.com/
I have just begun the lattice portion. I keep ending up with one too few stitches in the lattice row 1 to finish with a k2tog but row 3 works out correctly. How many stitches should I have on my needle at the start of row 1 and row 3 in the lattice portion? It seems row 1 calls for a multiple of 3 plus one but row 3 calls for a multiple of 3.
Hi Jamie.
Thanks for writing in.
You should have the same number of stitches throughout Rows 1 – 4. Every time you yarn over, you also k2tog, the increase is canceled out by the decrease.
Are you maybe not knitting 1 at the beginning of Row 1? Are you forgetting to k2 at the beginning of Row 3 or k1 at the end of Row 3? Maybe you’re yarning over one too many times on one of the rows or rather (and more likely) k2tog one too many times? Could that be possible?
I’d love to help get this figured out with you. Please write us back if you have any questions!
Laura
I was knitting the yo and k2tog as two separate stitches but now I’ve got it figured out. Thanks for your help!
Made this in the small size and ended up huge! Could it be because I used acrylic yarn? I used the same needle size and all but it looks like a size large. Would love advice as to where I went wrong. Thanks
Oh dear, Mariella!
I wonder what happened…
It sounds like maybe your gauge was off. Did you make a swatch before hand? Did you block the swatch? What gauge was your swatch? What gauge was your sweater? Which yarn did you use? What size needles? I’d love to help you figure this out so it doesn’t happen in the future.
Write us back!
Laura
Hi,
Question about the lattice portion. Do the rows increase in terms of number of stitches for the “sleeves”?? If so, how many stitches should one expect to increase in their 4th row of lattice?
Also, my piece appears to be slanting to the left, as opposed to increasing equally on each side to account for 2 sleeves?
Now I know that other people say it just looks like that and will change after blocking, but I’m not so sure with mine.
Help!
Thanks,
Katie
Hi Katie.
Thanks for writing in.
The lattice portion does not have any increases. Each yo is paired with a k2tog so the increase from the yo is immediately negated by the decrease of the k2tog.
As for the slanting… It should straighten out when you block. If you want, you can steam block (hover a steaming iron an inch above your knit fabric) your project before working the neck, just to ensure it’ll straighten up some. And then do a full blown submerging block when you complete the project.
Let me know how it goes or if you have any questions!
Laura
Thanks Laura,
So just to clarify, one should always have 103 stitches that they are working with, other than for the neck when one is binding some off and then cable casting some on?
Thanks!
Katie
Hi Katie.
Yes, that is correct!
Thanks.
Laura
Thank you for the great sweater pattern. This is my first time tackling a sweater and I think this would be a good first time sweater pattern. I just finished the back in the MC and now I ame just a few rows into the lattice. Row 1 (WS)I have 115 stitches as with row 2 (RS)but some how in row 3 (WS) I have 116 stitches. I have ripped out the lattice 3 times and have reworked it but I am still having the same issue. Row 3 you K2 *yo k2t* until 1 stitch is left K last stitch….Should I end the repeat with a yo or with k2t before knitting the last stitch? I think this is were I’m picking up the extra stitch.
Thank you,
Mary
Hi Mary.
I think you are absolutely right. You’re picking up an extra stitch just before that final k1. You repeat the yo and k2tog over and over and over again, but you’ll end the repeat with a k2tog!
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
hi
I Love this and am wanting to make it for me, but I’m rather big around the bust – about 54″. Would I just do the increases as you have for the 34,36 &38? So 6sts for 2″?
Thanks
Hi Lisa.
Yes. That’s right. 54 inches / 2 * 6 = 162, so you’d want to do a 157-stitch or 163-stich cast on.
Let me know if you have any question!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Just received my order from you of Flax down and anzula.
Wanting to do this pattern with anzula on bottom and flax on top.
Just wondering how the best way is to add sleeves?
Picking stitches up at the top? Or starting at the end of sleeve and attaching….please have you any suggestions for me?
Thank you. Sandy Bogert.
Hi Sandy.
I love the yarn combination you’re doing! Sounds amazing.
As for the sleeves… after completing the shirt as is, I would pick up at the armholes and knit down! It’ll make a drop shoulder kind of construction. Let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Lovely pattern. I’m thinking about trying this as my first sweater. Is your gauge blocked or unblocked? This is the first thing I’ll make where size matters and I’m trying to get my head around gauge. Thank you!
Hi Olivia.
I’m thrilled that this will be your first sweater project!
The gauge given in the pattern is the gauge once blocked.
Please let me know if you have any questions along the way!
Laura
Thank you Laura!
I love this look but don’t know how to convert the stitch count to a size 2x- garment chest measurement about 52″ would be great. Is this even possible with this pattern?
Hi,
Thank you so much for this very nice tutorial. I started to knit it and I reached the lattice part. I am having trouble with that point :
R1 : K1, *yo, K2tog* is fitting with a multiple of (3+1) stitches but for R3 : K2, *yo, K2tog*, K1, it is fitting with a multiple of (3) stitches…
I have ripped out several times and have reworked it but I always have an extra stitch on R3 of the pattern… Could you explain me what I’m doing wrong?
Thanks,
Eeva
Hi Eeva.
I’m glad you wrote in.
How are you working your yarn over? Are you by chance knitting one right after the yo. I only ask because this is an extremely common mistake. The yo is simply the action, in this case, of bringing the yarn from the back to the front between the needles. Then to work the next stitch, you take the yarn over the top of the needle to k2tog. The yarn over does not use a stitch, so isn’t counted in the stitch multiple. Meaning, Row 1 is a multiple of (2+1) and Row 2 is a multiple of (2+3).
I hope all of this makes sense.
Have you seen our yo tutorial video: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/11/11/yarn-over-yo/
Please let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi Laura,
Indeed, it was my mistake, thank you for your very clear explanation !
Eeva
I’m planning to CO for this today, hoping to knit it in the round! Which I see quite a few people have done, but I’m still a little hesitant, especially about grafting right on the front… Is Kitchner Stitch what you mean by grafting? And is that completely seamless, like it’s not noticeable or anything?
Really excited to get this gorgeous sweater on the needles.
Thanks!
~Cecilia
Hi Cecilia.
Thanks for writing in. These are great questions.
The reason I didn’t work this in the round was because grafting the shoulders together is not seamless. I prefer to work this pattern flat and to use the wonderfully magical and quick mattress stitch to seam the side together and have an uninterrupted lattice work at the shoulders.
As for grafting the lattice stitch at the shoulders… I’ve never done it. I don’t think kitchener is probably the way to go, but I’m not sure what technique is best if you wanted to graft at the shoulders.
I think if I did work this in the round, I would do so up until the underarm, divide for the front and back. Work off the back stitch starting with a row or two of stocking and then switch to lattice and go up and over the shoulders and down the top of the front, as the pattern is written. And then I’d work a row or two in stockinette and then graft the front top to the front body using kitchener.
Hope this helps!
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Thanks for the quick reply, Laura!
I think this time I’m just going to knit it in the round(the way you suggested), and then we’ll see, maybe I’ll make another one and experiment with knitting it flat, or knitting it in the round seaming it at the shoulders…. 🙂
Thanks again – I casted on Thursday, loving it so far!
~Cecilia
Hi Laura,
I fell in love with this pattern the second I saw it! It is my first garment 🙂 I noticed that the lattice was growing but I just assumed that was due to the stretchiness of the stitch. Well, before doing the neck hole I counted and realized that I had 17 extra stitches! On each row 3’s of the lattice I was doing k2tog, yo, knit 1 to end. My question is, is there a way for me to do decreases on the front to bring it back down to the correct amount of stitches?
Hi Meghan.
Thanks for writing in. I’m glad you like the pattern!
The top potion is going to hang very far off your shoulders with this new shaping you’ve added. I would recommend pulling back to before you have any errors. I think you’ll probably be happiest with the final result doing that. If you really want to decrease to fix the problem though… I’m guessing you could do the opposite of what you did for the first half, and decrease on each row 3 for the second half.
Best.
Laura
Hi Laura. I have been looking for a top with a neckline that doesn’t gape open and it cool. I think this would be great to play golf in, yet be feminine. Unfortunately, I am a porker (size 40 chest) and would like to know how to increase this pattern to fit someone bigger than 38. I have just the yarn for this too. Have been saving it for something special and this is it. Do you think this would work in Cotton Classic or Cotton Twist? It is extremely hot here in NC in the summer, so cotton would be the way to go, since I have my own internal heating system (being old stinks). HAHAHA Thanks for this great pattern!
Hi Sharon.
Thanks for writing in. In regards to modifying the pattern… There is a 6 stitch difference between each of the given sizes. To modify this pattern for a larger circumference, simply add 6 stitches to the largest existing cast on number until you have the appropriate number of stitches for 1/2 of the finished circumference you’d like (for example 121, 127, 133, 139…).
As for cottons yarns… Check out Cascade’s Ultra Pima: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7117-Cascade-Yarns-Ultra-Pima and Blue Sky’s Skinny Cotton: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/3823-Blue-Sky-Skinny-Cotton
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
I am currently knitting this darling pattern and have a quick question. I started out with 115 stitches and am now on the back body and have only 112 stitches. Was I supposed to lose these in the eyelet row or do I need to be at 115 still? Thanks so much!
Hi Jennifer.
Oh dear. Yes, you’ll need all 115 stitches for the remainder of the pattern to work out, especially the lattice portion and when you bind off for the neckline.
You could either gradually increase along the edge to work back up to 115, or you could rip out to where you think you made the mistake and fix it.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi Laura,
I love this pattern! I was just wondering what your preferred cast on method is for this piece? I am a fan of long-tail cast on, usually, but I’m wondering about allowing for that AND the side seam tail. Have you got any tips there?
Thanks so much for posting this – I can’t wait to get started.
Hi Sue!
I used a long-tail method for this project. If you have a tail that is approximately 3 and a half times the width of the piece, that will cover the cast on. If you want to use the tail to sew up the side… then add 30 inches to be safe (this is very safe). Also, you don’t have to sew the sides up with the tail, you can use a fresh length of yarn instead! Knitter’s choice.
Hope you enjoy the top.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi Laura, Gorgeous pattern!! I was wondering if it’s possible to modify the pattern using fingering weight? I have so much of it, I’d really like to use it up and make a few of these cute tops for my niece. Please ket me know. Thanks in advance! 🙂
Hi Michele-
It’s not a simple conversion to change the gauge like this and we don’t have plans to rewrite this pattern for fingering weight at the moment. But you might want to check out our other sweater patterns to see if anything else strikes your fancy: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/category/knit/projects-knit/garments-projects-knit/
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Hi Michele.
I believe I just wrote you back on Ravelry with some tips for converting this into a fingering weight yarn. If you’re a different Michele, here’s what I said…
Here are some tips for working this in a finer gauge…
– When you cast on… you can use my cast on numbers as a starting point, and just increase by 6 stitches, until you have the approximate number of stitches you’ll need for half of the circumference.
– When you get to the neck… Take the total number of stitches and subtract an odd number of stitches you’d like to use for the neck, then divide what you have left by 2 and then subtract 1. Then take that number and divide by 2 once more. For instance, if you take the largest size in my pattern…
115 cast on stitches – 61 bound off stitches = 54 stitches
54 stitches / 2 = 27 stitches
27 – 1 = 26 stitches
26 stitches / 2 = 13
That number (13) is how many time you’ll (yo, k2tog) in the row that reads:
Next Row (WS): K1, (yo, k2tog) 11 (12, 13) times, bind off in knit following 57 (59, 61) stitches, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end. (46, 50, 54 stitches)
I hope these tips help.
Laura
Hello there, this is a beautiful pattern! I learnt how to knit more than 10 years ago and just recently picked it up again. I’m actually knitting your Mistake Rib Scarf at the moment! It’s going really well so I’m already thinking about my next project. I wonder if this top would be too difficult for a relative beginner to try … ?
Also, I already have 3.5mm (US4?) needles, so I was thinking of trying this with those needles and 4mm (US6?) needles. Would that be okay, do you think?
Cheers,
Valerie
Hi Valerie.
Welcome back to knitting!
This top was designed with beginners in mind. The structure of it is to show that a rectangle with a head hole is all it take to make your very first garment. You’ll need to know how to do yarn overs and how to do a cable cast on. Luckily we have tutorials on both!
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/11/11/yarn-over-yo/
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/07/cable-cast-on/
As for changing the needle size… this will affect your gauge. You’ll be getting more stitches to the inch and therefore the finished dimensions of the garment will be much smaller. If you change your needle size, you’ll need to modify the pattern (the cast on number and the neckline shaping, etc.). This would be a more advanced exercise.
Let us know if you have any questions.
Enjoy that scarf.
Laura
Hi Laura,
thanks for your super quick reply and the links to the tutorials! I’ll head out after work to get me some new yarn for the top (and I’ll take your advice to stick to the suggested needle sizes).
Can’t wait to start 🙂
Valerie.
Hi Laura
So, 12 inches in, I just realised I made a boo boo 🙁
I have a tiny frame, and I calculated that casting on 94 stitches would be the perfect size for me, but obviously I completely missed that I had to cast on an ODD number.
So when I got to the end of my back lattice row 1 I ended up with an extra stitch. What’s the best way of dealing with this? Undo everything and start again, with an odd number this time around?
I am new to knitting, so I am a tad confused.
This is such a lovely design though, really. Great job.
Hi Ulli.
I definitely don’t think you need to pull out the entire thing!
The cast on is an odd number that is a multiple of 3 + 1 (so for instance, the smallest size given… 34*3=102. 102+1=103). Ideally you’ll want either 97 or 91 stitches. Since you have a small frame, I would decrease to get down to 91. You can do this in your last two right side rows of stockinette before the lattice portion of the project.
In your second to last right side row of stickinette before starting the lattice portion, start the row with an ssk and end it with a k2tog. At this point you’ll have 92 stitches. Then on your last right side row before the lattice portion, end the row with k2tog. Now you’ll have 91 stitches! These decrease will fall right perfectly hidden right at the underarm.
You can finish the project out with 91 stitches, but if you’d like to, you can increase in your first two right side rows to mirror your decreases. That’s up to you!
Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Laura
Hi Laura
Thanks so much for the detailed reply, but in the end (after much deliberation) I decided to pull it all out and cast on 97 stitches. I’ll keep your suggested method in mind though should my decision turn out to be a mistake. Hehe
Anyway – i just finished the back lattice part and am about to bind off, and I am super nervous to make a mistake. What bind off method did you use for this pattern?
Hi Ulli.
You are very welcome for the reply! As for the bind off… I used a basic bind off. I simply knit across those back neckline stitches binding off the 57 (59, 61) as I went. I hope this helps. Please let us know if you have any questions! -Laura
Hello, I am Italian and I translated this model in Italian! If you want I can send it to you 🙂
Hi Valentina.
How wonderful!!!
We’d love to see it. Please send it to [email protected]
THANKS!!
Laura
Hi, I am new to knitting and have just discovered Purl Bee! I an going to try out this project but I need it for a 44 inch chest measurement? Would you be able to advise on how many stitches, yarn etc for this size? Thanks!
Hi Alexandra.
Welcome to the Purl Bee!
In regards to modifying the pattern… There is a 6 stitch difference between each of the given sizes. To modify this pattern for a larger circumference, simply add 6 stitches to the largest existing cast on number until you have the appropriate number of stitches for 1/2 of the finished circumference you’d like (for example 121, 127, 133, 139…).
Please let us know if you have any questions! -Laura
Hi!
I was looking to change the coloring of the shirt so that it was all one color–would three skeins of tosh sport still be necessary? Or is the total yardage of yarn used in the shirt under 540 yds?
Thanks!
Hi Jade.
What size will you be making? For either the Small or Medium, I would recommend picking up a third skein.
Thanks for writing in!
Laura
Hi Laura,
I’m curious about knitting this in “petite.” I’m 5’1 and will knit the small size. I would like the lattice to start around my armpits–would I shorten the lattice at the top, start it later, remove some of the beginning section after the rib, or something else I haven’t even considered yet? What would you suggest?
Thanks so much!
Mona
Hi Mona.
Thanks for writing in!
The shirt is currently designed so that the lattice starts at the underarms, so you are in luck on that front.
As for modifying the pattern for a more petite body… You can both shorten the length of the stockinette body as well as the length of the lattice. Currently the body is worked until the piece measures 12 (13, 14) inches from the cast on edge, but you can very easily stop working the body at 10 or 11 inches if you desire and move on to the lattice portion of the pattern.
The lattice portion measures 6 1/2 (7 1/2, 8 1/2) inches before you make the neckline. This ends up being the dimension from the shoulder to the underarm, so you may not want to modify this too too much, or the top might become too snug around your arms.
I hope this information helps! Please do not hesitate to write back in if you have any additional questions.
Laura
I am a pretty novice knitter, however, I really want to try this pattern. I will need to format it for plus sizes. Any advice on how to do that?
Hi Natasha.
Thanks for writing in. In regards to modifying the pattern… There is a 6 stitch difference between each of the given sizes. To modify this pattern for a larger circumference, simply add 6 stitches to the largest existing cast on number until you have the appropriate number of stitches for 1/2 of the finished circumference you’d like (for example 121, 127, 133, 139…). Then, when you get to the neck… Take the total number of stitches and subtract an odd number of stitches you’d like to use for the neck, then divide what you have left by 2 and then subtract 1. Then take that number and divide by 2 once more. For instance, if you take the largest size in my pattern…
115 cast on stitches – 61 bound off stitches = 54 stitches
54 stitches / 2 = 27 stitches
27 – 1 = 26 stitches
26 stitches / 2 = 13
That number (13) is how many time you’ll (yo, k2tog) in the row that reads:
Next Row (WS): K1, (yo, k2tog) 11 (12, 13) times, bind off in knit following 57 (59, 61) stitches, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end. (46, 50, 54 stitches)
I hope these tips help.
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
Love this pattern, and am making it for a friend who would like slightly longer sleeves maybe two inches longer than the cap. How would I best make this happen without destroying the look. one of the photos seems to have longer cap sleeves that the one at then end of the pattern. If you think this will not work well, please let me know.
Many thanks for such a lovely pattern.
Melanie
Hi, I am about to start the front piece and was wondering if I have done it correct. The transition from back piece to lattice is a row with yarn overs. The transition from front body to lattice are two solid knit rows, so no holes from grey to white?
Thank you and have a nice day.
Hi Nakuna! Yes! That is correct!! Thanks for writing in. Please let us know if you have any other questions. -Laura
Hi
I am making your lovely pattern all in one color. I am also using a sport weight merino wool yarn and have adjusted the number of stitches to match the gauge. My question is regarding the lattice . I want less of the lattice rows so that the top of my bra will be covered. Can I continue straight up past the armholes before starting ? Will it pull at the arms or will the fact that it is a cap sleeve allow for this adjustment ?
Hello Aunrey,
You absolutely could make that change! The pattern is created by just folding a long rectangle in half. Therefore you could definitely adjust the armholes since there’s no shaping involved!
Happy stitching! -Alyson
I have another question for you. I ended up using an aran weight yarn with 82 stitches on my needles. I’m trying to figure out the math for the neckline from what you wrote in your other replies..
I worked out that you are allowing a 9-10″ opening which would be 45 stitches that I would cast off leaving me 37 stitches remaining.
Minus 1 =36 (if I divide by 2 first I end up working with fractions)
36 divided by 2= 18
18 divided by 2 = 9 which is the number of times I will yo, k2tog
Did I figure this correctly ? Thank you so much for you patience and help !
Hi Aunrey.
It sounds like you’re on the right track, but I have a small adjustment for you! I started with an odd number and then bound off an odd number in order to get an even number. Since you’re starting with an even number, you’ll want to bind off an even number.
Here are the numbers for the largest size…
115 cast on stitches – 61 bound off stitches = 54 stitches
54 stitches / 2 = 27 stitches
27 – 1 = 26 stitches
26 stitches / 2 = 13
That number (13) is how many time you’ll (yo, k2tog).
But for you, starting with 82 stitches, let’s work backwards assuming you’ll do 9 (yo, k2tog)
9 x 2 = 18
18 + 1 = 19
19 x 2 = 38
82 – 38 = 44 stitches at the neck
Aunrey, is this making sense? Please do not hesitate to write back!!
Laura
Yes, it makes perfect sense. Thank you so much !
Aunrey
Hi,
Lovely pattern. I have a beginner’s question: Can we follow the same instructions to work with straight needles?
Many thanks,
Eva
Hello Eva!
Yes you can! As long as you can squish the stitches onto your straight needles, you definitely don’t NEED to use circular needles. Thanks for your question! -Alyson
Hello,
I am finding that since starting the back lattice, it seems skewed to one side. Any suggestions as to what I could be doing wrong?
Thanks,
Erica
Hi Erica.
I’m glad you wrote in. That slanting of the fabric… It should straighten out when you block. If you want, you can steam block (hover a steaming iron an inch above your knit fabric) your project before working too far, just to ensure it’ll straighten up some. And then do a full blown submerging block when you complete the project.
Let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hello, I was wondering why for the medium size, the back stockinette stitch rows measure 13 inches, but the corresponding front rows only measure 11 1/4 inches. How should I line these areas up to stitch them together?
Hi Kelly.
Thanks for writing in.
The pattern instructs you to work the back until it measures 13 inches from the cast on edge, that 13 inches includes 1 3/4 inches of ribbing and 11 1/4 inches of stockinette. Then you work the back lattice and then the front lattice. Then, for the front you are instructed to work 11 1/4 inches of stockinette for the front body before finally working 1 3/4 inches of ribbing. All together the front stockinette section should measure the same as the back stockinette section.
If you have 1 3/4 inches of ribbing and then 13 inches of stockinette on the back, I suggest you mirror that modification on the front side so that you can align them for seaming!
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
I am excited to get started on this sweater. I plan to knit it in one color and purchased three skeins of Anzula’s Cricket in Au Natural through Purl Soho. I did a gauge swatch last night and in order to get 6 stitches in an inch in stockinette, I had to use size 7 needles. The fabric appears a little looser than what is pictured in the pattern pictures, but it’s not open/loopy and doesn’t bother me much since I’ll be wearing it in the Spring/Summer. Any concerns with size 7s for the larger needle?
Never mind. I remade and blocked my two gauge swatches and the size 6 needle is more on gauge. Will go with that!
Hi Jennifer!
If size 7s is what you need to achieve gauge… then size 7s sound great!
Thanks for writing in.
I hope you enjoy the pattern and wearing your new Cap Sleeve Lattice Top!
Laura
Hi! I just received the Tosh Merino Light in Paper and Charcoal and am excited to start this project. As I was looking at the yarn, I noticed that it recommended to alternate the skeins every two rows if using more than one. Is this something that you did or would recommend? Thanks so much!
Hi, Candace!
Thank you so much for writing in. Sorry for the delayed response! The recommendation to alternate skeins every two rows arises from the fact that Madelinetosh’s dye lots can vary widely. Alternating the skeins hides this variation. If the skeins that you purchased have a noticeable color variation or if you are concerned about the dye lots not matching I recommend alternating skeins. For me, if the yarn’s tags indicate that they are from the same dye lot I don’t bother alternating the skeins.
If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I am knitting this on circular needle from bottom up and plan to hold half of the stitches on another needle while working the lattice. I want the lattice to be shorter, only 6 or 7 repeats. Do I just continue knitting the body until I reach the point where I want to begin the lattice? If not, what do I need to do around the armhole?
Hi Sandi,
Thanks for writing in! If you’d like the lattice portion to be shorter, then I would continue knitting with the main yarn until you want to start the lace stitch, putting the piece up to your body as you go to gauge where you want to start the new stitch. By knitting stockinette flat, your edges will curl on the armhole, so I suggest slipping the first stitch and creating a mini-border, like garter or seed stitch, to avoid this. Good luck and happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
So excited to be almost finished this lovely piece – first piece of ‘clothing’ I’ve ever knit! I am just at the part where I seam up the sides – would you go every bar or go two bars at a time for this weight? Thanks so much, can’t wait to show it off!
Hello, Sara!
I am so glad to hear that you’ve enjoyed knitting this top! With this weight yarn you could do either, going every bar or every other bar, it’s really just a matter of preference!
Please let us know how it goes!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi. I recently made this in a smaller size and I noticed in the note you said for altering the size you must cast on a multiple of 3 plus 1 so that’s what I did. However it must also be a multiple of 2 plus 1 for the lattice. Unfortunately I found this out the hard way. Thought you might like to add this to the note.
Hi Laura,
I enjoy the patterns on the site! B-e-a-utiful!
Can I ask, what is in grams of one skein? How much ~ material do I need for the L of XL ?
Thanks and best regards,
Grazina
Hi Grazina,
Thanks for writing in! The large size takes three skeins for the bottom and two for the top, 300 and 200 grams total respectively. If you are changing the pattern to do an extra large, I would buy one more skein each, just in case. Good luck and happy knitting.
Best,
Adam
I really want to work this in more financially available sport yarn from Herrschner’s its their Sweetie Pie a lovely soft acrylic from Village Yarns.
1.75 oz 50g 138 yds gauge 5.75 on #6 needles.
Substituting yarns is a pain to figure out! But I love the simplicity of this pattern.
Hi Marsha,
Thanks for writing in! We certainly understand that sometimes our yarn suggestions are more of an inspiration than a reality for many people. You can certainly use an alternate yarn here. The gauge that you list here is a bit bigger than what this pattern uses. If you can get 6 stitches per inch on US 6 needles with this yarn, you should be all set. If you have some of the yarn already, I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch to ensure that you can get gauge and that you like the fabric. If you are getting gauge, you should be all set!
Best,
Cassy
A neighborhood lady taught me how to crochet when I was an adolescent. I made what was called in the 60s’ a hippie vest. I blocked it and put it on top of an old car sitting in our driveway. A cat got it and tore it up.
I taught myself how to knit when I was in college. I have enjoyed many, many hours knitting, crocheting and sewing. I LOVE YOUR PROJECTS! Each is elegant (I did not know what elegant means mathematically but it fits.) I have a baby blanket to finish and a pair of mittens to finish but I am going to make something from PurlSoho and I am going to feel elegant. Thank you.
I love this pattern and hope to finish this summer (I’m a slow knitter) I am reading the switch from back lattice to front lattice. I am confused with the instructions that read “K1 (yo, K2tog)” why the parenthesis? Does that mean begin with K1 and not repeat that stitch but repeat what are in the ( )’s?
Thank you! I love your patterns and have a stack of them to work thru!
Hi Elsie,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you will (yo, k2tog) eleven, twelve or thirteen times depending on which size you are doing. Do not k1 each time — this is only for the first stitch. Hope this helps.
Best,
Adam
Hi! I’m currently knitting this awesome project and I have a question: I’m working the front neck, just started the cable cast on but I have no idea how I’m going to tie in with the stitches on the other side since the cast on stitches are in the left needle. Am I doing something wrong or is there an instruction missing?
I’m casting on the left needle but seems I should be casting on to the right needle to continue building the neck line. Please help!
Many thanks in advance
Dear Catha,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I see what the issue is. When you start the row, you knit the first 23(25, 28) stitches and then cable cast-on the required stitches. Using the cable cast on, you cast on stitches onto the right needle next to the stitches that you have just knit. We do have a helpful tutorial for the cable cast on that I think could be very helpful. It can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/07/cable-cast-on/
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you, Cassy, for the link on the cable-cast-on and thank you for this lovely Lattice top pattern.
Hi Laura,
I’m knitting this lovely top in the round. I’m at the lattice section and realizing I will need to knit the front and back lattice separately. Do you recommend several knit rows at the neck and shoulders so that I can seam them nicely? Or do I follow the lattice pattern for front and back and somehow join the lattice and the bodice together with a seam?
Thanks
Hi Elena,
Thanks for writing in! I did a quick search of the pattern on Ravelry and found several knitters who made this pattern in the round. Techniques ranged from grafting the lace at the top of the sleeves to knitting the lattice portion (from the in the round body) as written and then grating the lattice to the body of the sweater. All of the options look lovely and I think that which ever method you end up going with will yield a lovely finished garment. I also think that your idea of knitting a row or two and then kitchnering those rows together would work. It would, however, yield a bit of a different look than the sample.
Let us know how it goes and please feel free to reach out again!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I’m making this at the moment. I knit the lattice section first, flat. I’ve then picked up stiches with the MC to complete this section in the round, working down to the bottom. So far, it’s worked an absolute treat.
I will try this technique. Knit the lattice section first then the body.
Can I do the body in circular needle? Should I adjust the # of stitches or just use what’s in the pattern?
Also, can I do provisional cast on to start the lattice and use it for the body.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts.
Best of luck!
-Adam
Has anyone made this in the lattice only? I was thinking this would be pretty layered over a tank.
Hi Gina,
Thanks for writing in! I think that you should totally try making this in the lattice stitch. It would be really cool. I think you’d need the same amount of yarn and you could hold the front body up to you in order to tell when you need to start the front chest. Just make sure you do the same amount of rows for the front as the back since you’ll be seaming at the sides in the end. If you decide to do this stitch, I’d add an extra stitch for seaming on either end so it will make your seam more even.
Best of luck!
-Adam
I am a new knitter and am highly motivated to try this pattern, it is so pretty. My first question: After you knit the back ribbing it says to do an eyelet row. I understand the technique but not the why. Is that one row of decreasing and then proceeding straight up for the back?
2nd question: Am I correct in thinking you are knitting bottom up for the back and then top down (lattice work first) for the front? Thank you for your time.
Hi Kathi,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! The eyelet row after the ribbing is for decoration only and you can omit it if you don’t like it. For your second question, you are correct. You will start at the bottom front and knit the whole piece over the shoulders and down the back. There are no shoulder seams in this piece but there are side seams. Best of luck on this project and happy knitting!
-Adam
I have been dreaming of knitting this up for some time now, but I’m curious if it would be doable in your lovely line weight to make a lighter top?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! This would be lovely in Line Weight but the gauge is much different. You’d have to do some math to figure out an appropriate cast on amount. I’d do a gauge swatch and just make sure that whatever you cast on is a multiple of 3 + 1. Thanks again!
-Adam
I’ve been checking the comments on here and on the ravelry page but can’t seem to get a clear consensus….if I’m knitting this in the round and want to cast on just slightly less than the small size in the pattern, am I picking an odd number that’s a 3+1 (I chose 198)? I’ve seen several different ways of adding up a CO number so now I’m just lost.
Thanks!
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing us! You’ll still want to pick a cast on that is a multiple of 3 + 1 because the lattice portion is not knit in the round. When you finish with the body you will divide front and back to start the lattice lace. This is when 3 + 1 is important. All in all, 198 seems like a good cast on! The only thing you’ll have to adjust is the ribbing at the bottom since 198 is not divisible by 3. I suggest doing a k2p2 rib. Good luck with the project!
Best,
Adam
198 is divisible by 3….it’s 66!
Just for anyone out there looking to get an idea about how to cast on for in the round….
The ribbing needs to be divisible by 3…..ie 198.
The eyelot row will also need to be slightly different (one less K stitch at the start of row):
Eyelet Row (RS): K1, *yo, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, yo, k2tog.
Then when you get to the lattice work, divide your work in half (99) keeping half on scrap yarn. As you start to work the lattice, you will need to add an extra stitch (bringing it up to 100st) to make the lattice stitch lean properly. knit the lattice up and over and graft onto your live stitches in whichever manner you like best.
Hi! I am about to start this pattern for my 12 year old daughter. Her actual bust is 291/2 and we are going to go with 16 long from shoulder to bottom. Can you help with the other dimensions? I was thinking 9 from underarm to bottom and am not sure what the ease is/finished chest circumference should be. Thanks so much!
Hi Julie,
I think this is a lovely top for a 12 year old girl! Great idea! I would cast on 12-16 stitches less than the pattern, which will make your finished chest about 31-31 1/2″ around. This is a good amount of ease because you don’t want the top to be skin tight. Depending on your daughter’s torso length, I’d measure from an inch below her underarm to about an inch below her hip bone for the side length. This way you’ll get a more accurate measurement than me suggesting one off the top of my head! I think this project will be lovely! Best of luck!
-Adam
I wear a size 14 and I cast on 115 stitches on a round needle. This doesn’t look as if it is going to fit , I’m so disappointed. Is this pattern for an adult or child?
Hi Mya,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern is knit flat and seamed up the sides. Make sure you didn’t join the the round! As long as your chest size is around 38″ you should be good to go on this pattern! Enjoy it and good luck!
-Adam
Thank you
I seem to be adding stitches to the back lattice in the 3rd row. When K2, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. Initially, I cast on 109 stitches. K2 + 35(yo, k2tog) leaves 2 stitches, so I yo the second to last stitch then k1 for a total of 110. Should I not do the final yo? What should I do?
Hello Angelika,
Thanks for writing us! First, I would make sure that you started the lattice lace with 109 stitches and not 110. If you did start with 109, then I’d look down your needle and make sure you have a yo in between each stitch after the initial k2. It’s probably best to not increase to 110 stitches because this will offset the lattice stitch and it won’t come out right. Let me know how it goes and feel free to write back if you have any more questions!
-Adam
Hi, I don’t understand how to start the back lattice. After reaching 14 inches, cut yarn leave a 24 inch tail. Do I cast on 115 stitches again and start with cc color. Is the lattice knit separately and then seamed to the back??? I’m totally lost
Hi May,
Thanks for writing in! The lattice is not a separate piece actually. Once you complete the back body you’ll cut your main yarn and simply start knitting with the contrast color for your lattice stitch. Your stitches will still be live on the needle, so there is no need to cast off or on. Let me know if you have any other questions! Good luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
What a beautiful pattern! I have ordered the yarn and can’t wait to start.
I would like to knit it in the round to eliminate the side-seams– do you think I will run into any trouble with this adaptation and/or do you have any tips for this?
Hi Marianna,
So glad you are digging the pattern! Many of our customers have adapted this for working in the round. I suggest casting on double the flat cast on in the pattern, knitting the body in the round and dividing for the front/back when you’ve reached your desired torso length. When knitting this in the round you’ll divide your stitches in half and knit up the front lattice portion as in the pattern. The only difference is that you’ll graft the end of your lattice stitches with the end of your back torso stitches. Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I’m planning on casting on for this sometime in the very near future, but can’t decide on sizing. I have a very pear shaped body, bust being 43″, and hips clocking in at an epic 51″. I can’t figure if the best plan to keep the integrity of the garment’s design is to go with a 44″ sized cast-on, and hope it fits my hips, or go with something closer to the hips numbers, 50″ or 52″, and hope the chest is a bit forgiving, or if I should just go with shaping around the hips and waist, and forget about the otherwise looser garment style. Does the ribbing at the bottom allow for that much give? I just don’t know!!
Hi Katie,
Thanks for writing in! I’m so happy you’re choosing this pattern! I suggest you give this top about 4″ of ease for the bust and not worry about the hips. The top is supposed to hit just at the hip bone and if you give it a little ease it will slouch and look pretty cute (in my opinion). The beauty of this top is that you can customize where it falls on your body. Let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
I made this beautiful top a couple of years ago when I first joined Ravelry and didn’t realise until today it was one of Purl Soho patterns. I’ve fallen completely in love with your styles and have knitted many projects but this top knitted in pale lemon with cream and lemon speckled wool for the lattice is still a firm favourite and I always get complimented upon i.
I Can’t recommend it enough for a simple but beautiful knit.
Thank you Purl Soho
Hello Siobhan,
Thank you for this lovely comment! It is great to hear that this project is one of your favorites.
-Marilla
I’d like to make this one more like a tank top, without the cap sleeves. I’d be knitting the smallest size for my daughter and the second size for myself.
Any ideas how to fit the lattice portion to the stockinette portion to do this?
Thank you, guys…never met a Purl Soho pattern I didn’t love!
Hello Liz,
Thank you for reaching out!
This might be a bit tricky to figure out and might require some trial and error. My best guess of how to achieve this would be to add decreases at the beginning and end of your row when knitting up the back and putting in increases that correspond with the decreases when knitting down the front of the lattice portion. When doing this you will want to make sure that you stay in stitch pattern which might mean adding some knit stitches at the begging and end so that rows 1 and 3 line up correctly. I would experiment with making swatches with decreases to see if you like the way it looks before jumping in.
Please let me know if I need to clarify any of this.
Warmly,
Marilla
Thank you, Marilla! Your advice made perfect sense. I’m swatching right now (well, not this very second, but you know what I mean), and I think I’m getting the stitch count worked out. It’ll probably take a few goes of playing with increases and decreases.
I’ve made a few of the lattice tops as given in the original pattern, and then Daughter said, “Hey, what if…” So, of course, now I have to knit up a tank version!
Thank you for your help!
I’m so happy to hear it! I would love to see the end result when you’re done. I think it’s a great idea!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi! I’ve started a gauge and am wondering how big I need to knit it, since you only have the 6 stitches to an inch info. Do I need to knit up a full square? I cast on 36 stitches. If I knit it a few inches deep, will that suffice? (This is my first gauge swatch ever… I’m a newbie!)
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out! I recommend knitting about 20 rows, or until you can get a clear understanding of how many stitches per inch you are getting. For a more in-depth look at gauge swatching check out our tutorial .
I hope this clears things up for you!
-Marilla
Okay, thanks. So the pattern says 6 stitches per inch. Is that six stitches and six rows, or just six inches and the rows don’t matter?
I just measure my 20 row swatch in three places, and I’m getting 6 stitches per inch in all three places, but about 8 rows… so I’m hoping that’s normal? The wool I’m using is a merino/silk blend. The store I bought it from advised me to wet my gauge swatch and block it then remeasure. Really hoping this will work out without having to adjust needle size!
Hello,
Sounds like you are on the right track! Your local yarn shop is correct – you always want to block your swatch. I’m betting the most it will do is even out those 8 rows. Let me know if you run into any issues!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hello,
Thanks for the question! I usually like to make a nice square for my swatches, but for most patterns (unless otherwise stated) you don’t need to worry about gauge length.
I hope this is helpful!
-Marilla
I would like to knit this beautiful sweater for my 11-year-old granddaughter, but I would like to use a fingering weight yarn that matches a sweater I’ve already made for her brother.
My question is whether you think by following the smallest size of the pattern, but with fingering weight yarn (and smaller needles such as US#2 for the ribbing and US#5 for the body), the sweater would “magically” work out to the correct size (roughly 31″ chest) without having to adjust the stitch count?
Thank you!
Hi,
Great question! To determine if this will work for you, you will need to knit a gauge swatch using the yarn and needles that you would like to use. Once you know the stitches that you are getting per inch, you will want to figure out how much smaller your gauge is. For example, if you are getting 7 stitches per inch, this is about 15% smaller than the 6 stitches per inch that we are getting for this pattern. The smallest size is a 34 and 34 x 85% would be 28.9 inches. At this gauge the 36 size would yield you 30.6 inches. These are just examples but I hope that is gives you a way to figure out how to gauge the size down. It will certainly take a bit of trial and error and be sure to make sure that the neck hole will fit over your granddaughter’s head but I think that you could certainly give it a go!
Best,
Cassy
Hi there,
I love this pattern! I am going to give it a try with some yarn I already have, but it calls for larger needles (size 8). Would this pattern still work? I know the pattern suggests two different sizes for needles as well, so would I size up or down if I am able to use this yarn?
Thanks!!
Rachel
Hello Rachel,
Great question! Unfortunately it sound like your yarn is going to be to thick, though it really all depend on the gauge of the yarn. You are looking for a sport/dk yarn that has a gauge of 6 stitches per inch on a US 6 needle. You could try knitting a gauge swatch with the yarn you have and see what happens- to achieve gauge you will want to go down in needle size, though this could make your knitted fabric to dense.
I hope this all makes sense and let me know if I can clarify anything for you!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Do you think this top can be made out of DK weight yarn? Thank you
Hello Donna,
Thank you for reaching out! This pattern calls for a sport weight yarn, so if you use a true DK it will likely come out larger than expected. I would be sure to check the gauge of the yarn you are considering to use to see how close it is to the suggested gauge of 6 stitches per 1 inch in stockinette stitch on US 6.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have had this sweater in my “favorites” for the longest time and I would like to knit it now. My bust measurement is 39″ and my hips are about 43-1/2″. I usually look best when a sweater has an a-line shape. Any suggestions about sizing and shaping? Thanks/
Hi Paula,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest starting with 121 stitches which will give you one inch of positive ease, and the easiest way to give the top a slight A-Line appearance would be to omit the ribbing and begin with either a garter or seed stitch edging on the larger needles. If you would like a more exaggerated A-Line, it would require a bit more work to plan, but not too much! You could decide how many stitches to start with by multiplying your stitch gauge by half of your desired width at the bottom of the sweater and then decrease at both edges, spacing your decreases evenly along the length of the back, until you are down to 121 stitches an inch or two before beginning the Back Lattice section. Once you have completed both the Front and Back Lattice instructions, you will mirror the shaping on the front by increasing at both edges to match the back.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am just finishing this sweater. I LOVED making this! I used Cascade 220 superwash sport (colors Aran and Extra Cream). It’s so pretty my 14 year old has been waiting patiently to wear it and I think by this weekend it will happen! Thanks! Great, super easy pattern and great photos!
Hello!
I love this pattern! But I do have one question.
You tell us if we want to alter the size to cast on a multiple of 3 plus 1, althought when we achieve the back lattice the very first row (WS) it says: k1, *yo, k2tog, repeat from* to end. This row doesn´t have a multiple of 3 plus 1… So when we alter the size this does not work with some numbers…
Can you help me?
Thank you!
Hi Joana,
Thank you so much for the kind words! Not only does the cast on have to be a multiple of 3 plus 1, it also has to be an odd number. This will result in a number that is also a multiple of 2 plus 1 so the lattice pattern will work as well!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
HELP! bleeding yarn. The recommended Madelelinetosh sport yarn was used and the care instructions were followed. The color bled all over any recommendations?
Dear Julia,
I’m so sorry this happened to you- what a tragedy!! We recommend Shout Color Catchers that may help a lot with picking up the excess yarn dye. You can find these at your local grocery store
I would recommend trying this product with your blanket in just a tub of cool water or in the sink with very little agitation. I wouldn’t let it soak for too long, no more that 10-15 minutes.
Please let us know how it goes and best of luck!
Warmly,
Marilla
I’d like to do this beautiful top in linen. Has anyone done this? Any suggestions? Weight of yarn? Needle size?
Hi Molly,
Thanks for reaching out! Although we haven’t tried it ourselves, there are quite a few projects on Ravelry that used linen yarn for this top and they all turned out lovely. This pattern calls for sport weight yarn, so I would recommend using Field Linen. You will have to knit a gauge swatch to determine the correct needle size, but I would start with the US 6 the pattern calls for.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m a new knitter, so this may be a silly question. I’m noticing that the lattice portion of my top is longer on one side than the other. It’s sort of stretched out on the right side.. is this something I can fix when I block it at the end? Or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks!
Hi Caitlin,
Thanks for writing in! It’s possible that this is just a normal tension issue which will block out; however, if the right side is significantly longer than the left, I would suggest counting your rows on each side to see if you are accidentally turning around in the middle of a row frequently, which would add more rows and length to just one side. You could also try blocking it now by placing all your stitches on scrap yarn to make sure you will be happy with the lattice section before you go any further.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi I love the look of this top. My problem is the lattice has grown 57 stitches. Where did I go wrong? When I was try getting ready to graft the two pieces together I noticed the growth. Your help would be appreciated.
Hi Bernie,
Thanks for reaching out! Can you add a bit more information about which size you are making and where you are in the pattern? This top should be knit all in one piece without any grafting or kitchener stitch, so I’m not sure where you have run into difficulties!
Best,
Julianna
I want to make this for my granddaughter but she is 43″ in the bust. To have the correct number of ease inches what would I cast on (I matched gauge) and would there be any changes that need to be done for the lattice portion?
Hello Patti,
Thank you for reaching out- this is a great question! I would reccomend casting on 133 stitches for a 43″ bust. You shouldn’t need to change the lattice portion until the neck where I would do;
Next Row (WS): K1, (yo, k2tog) 15 times, bind off the following 71 stitches knitwise, *yo, k2tog, repeat from * to end. 60 stitches remain.
Next Row (RS): K30 cable cast on 71 stitches, knit to end. 133 stitches
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Do you think your Season Alpaca would work for this project? I’m leery about using 100% alpaca for a garment, but it seams that you recommend it for everything?
Hello Giovanne,
Thank you for reaching out! Alpaca does tend to stretch of long periods of time because of its weight. On the other hand it is incredibly soft and easy to work with. If you do go with our Season Alpaca yarn it will likely have some drape to it.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have read the comments but no one sent you this question
So here is my question I used the same yarn for the whole top. Where did the cap sleeves come from? I was expecting to add stitches at each side of the lattice.
Sorry for the ignorance
Thanks
Linda
Hi Linda,
Great question! Although you don’t add any stitches or shaping, the lattice stitch has a much wider gauge than stockinette, so the top of the sweater turns out several inches wider than the bottom, especially after blocking. This results in the lovely little sleeve caps!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, a few people in my knitting group are planning on making this top for summer. Do you recommend any yarns in your shop for this top that would be nice and cool for summer wear (i.e. not wool). Maybe linen or cotton?
Thank You, great patterns!
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for writing in! I think this top would be absolutely beautiful (and very warm-weather friendly!) in either Cotton Pure or Spectrum Silk. We can’t wait to see your group’s finished tops!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi
I love this top, am I able to sell it, or is your pattern only for home use?
Hi Claire,
Thank you for your interest in our patterns! While we’re happy you like our Cap Sleeve Lattice Top, our patterns and designs are copyrighted and are for home use only. This means that you can’t use our patterns to make things for sale. We hope you understand!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi there, I’m super excited to get started on this pattern.
But I’m a little confused with how much I need.
I have a sock/4ply skein for the bottom which is 100g/450m. Please could you recommend how many skeins I would need for the bottom part?
Thank you!
Hi Kerry,
Thanks for reaching out! We recommend 500-750 yards (depending on the size you plan on making) of a light worsted/dk weight yarn! Your sock yarn may be a bit thin so I suggest working up a gauge swatch to insure you are consistent with the pattern prior to beginning!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I made this top two years ago. I have lost some weight and the neckline is a little big now. I was thinking about doing a crochet border to pull in the neckline. Would this work or is there a better way to pull in the neckline?
Hi Kimberly,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that would work great! A crochet border should help tighten the neckline a bit, I would also recommend reblocking the piece once you finish to further help with the fit! I suggest checking out our Blocking tutorial is an excellent resource to use!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
I’m excited to start this pattern. Trying to decide on sizing. How is the fit of the sweater. My chest is 35” which is between small and medium. Otherwise I’d assume I’m a small. Should I make a medium then? Or does it come out a little loose? I’m generally a tighter knitter.
Hi Adele,
Thanks for reaching out! This top fits pretty true to size, so if you are between sizes, I recommend choosing the medium! Since the chest fits 34 (36, 38) inches, this will give you an inch of ease and a more comfortable fit!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Think I could manage to do this little jumper for myself but being a bit older would like a bit more coverage on the cap sleeve, Any advice for making the sleeve a tad longer?
]
Many thanks – Helen
Hi Helen,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately due to the construction of this pattern and the stitch used, there isn’t really a way to extend the sleeve without re-constructing the top. Thank you so much for expressing your interest though! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am really keen on making this top for my daughter and I am wondering where you mention about changing size add stitches would I also be able instead to change needle sizes? …I am also puzzled why the needle sizes goes up for the stockinette stitch will this not make the fabric loose or Gappy instead of close knit?… Also could you make this with all same size needle throughout ??…
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! You need the two needle sizes because it is standard for the ribbing to be knit with a size or two smaller needles than you would use for stockinette. This ensures that the fabric for the ribbing is taut and stretchy. So you need the smaller needle to knit the ribbing, you will then move to the next needle size for the body of the shirt, the stockinette stitch.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Good morning
Is there anyway to change sizes for size 8 girls?
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t currently offer this pattern for child sizes. But thank you for expressing your interest, I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
I also would love this pattern in child size. I just finished making it for myself and my 6 year old daughter says she wants one. I saw your response about sizing up for plus size – is it not possible to do something similar to adjust the pattern for a smaller child’s size?
Thanks,
Liz
Hi Liz,
Thanks for reaching out. I’d be happy to take a look at this to see if there are any simple modifications to change the size! Can you direct me to the comment you’re referring to? I can’t seem to find it, but it would definitely help me figure this out.
Thanks!
Lili
Sorry for my slow response! Here were the comments I was responding to:
Good morning
Is there anyway to change sizes for size 8 girls?
reply
Gianna says:
July 20, 2021 at 1:11 pm
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t currently offer this pattern for child sizes. But thank you for expressing your interest, I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Liz,
Oh I see! It looks like Gianna didn’t give specific instructions on how to modify the pattern, which means there likely isn’t a simple way to do so. But we will definitely keep your interest in mind if we update this pattern in the future!
All the best,
Lili
PS. I just emailed you with the problem of increase 57 stitches with the lattice section. I forgot to mention that I am using a single color. I did not put in a lifeline at the beginning of the lattice. What did I do wrong?
I appreciate your advice. Thank you!
Hi Verna,
Thanks for reaching out! It looks like we never received your email! If you would like, please re-send your email to our customer service team at [email protected] with the added information above and they can help you further from there. You can also submit your question here and we will get back to you within 24 hours.
Warmly,
Gianna
Good day,
I love this pattern, I was wondering if it could be knitted in the round shape with a circular needle, so no seem would be necessary.
Thank you.
Hi Daniele,
Thanks for reaching out! We only offer this pattern worked flat and then seamed up, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team. If you are up for a bit of a challenge you can certainly try this out in the round! If you do, please let us know how this turns out!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Wonderfully easy but difficult looking top. I made one for my bff’s birthday and she wore it on a cruise she took recently with myself and my husband. I’m making a second one for my sister’s birthday in April.
Hi,
I love the pattern, but I’m not finding the colors I want with the yarn you suggested. Do you know if I could use either the Flax Down or the Morning yarn? Both have lovely shades
Thank you!
Hi Malvina,
Thanks for writing in! For this pattern, we used a sport weight yarn that we, unfortunately, no longer carry. Morning and Flax Down are both dk/light worsted weights, so they are a bit thicker so I would not recommend using either of those. However, we have some great sport weight yarns that would be lovely in place of the original yarns! I would suggest using Good Wool or Wigeon! Either would be a great option, but I do recommend starting off by working a gauge swatch to ensure you are consistent with the pattern.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
I purchased the Purl Soho wool several years ago and am finally getting around to working on the Cap Sleeve Lattice Top pattern. I have started and ripped out the lattice part no less than 5 times. When looking at me work from the WS, it seems that the right side is angling in and the left side is angling out! Does that sound correct? I’m working the MED size with 109 stiches. Please help!
Hi Ana,
Thanks for reaching out. It’s hard for me to visualize what’s going on in your project, so would you be able to send us photos so we can troubleshoot? You can email them to us at [email protected]!
Thanks,
Lili
Hi-I love this sweater—I made it 2 years ago and get loads of complements. My only quibble is that the neck is too wide for me. It slips off my shoulders. I’d like to make another one but want to alter the neck opening. Do I simply bind off/cast on fewer stitches? If so what number/multiples do you recommend?
Thanks.
Hi Grace,
Thanks for reaching out to us! We’re so excited to hear that you’re planning to knit a second Cap Sleeve Lattice Top, and I’d be happy to help you adjust the neck opening.
The neck hole can be adjusted by binding off fewer stitches in the Back Neck section of the pattern, then casting on that same number in the Front Neck section. The Lattice stitch is knit with a stitch multiple of 3 stitches + 1, so the bind-off number for this section should be an odd number. I’d recommend using stitch markers to mark where you’d like the neck opening to be so you can make sure it’s the right size and that the neck opening is centered.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Can you please clarify the gauge required for this project? I’m confused with the pattern instructions saying
“6 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette on larger needles”
How many rows are required for the gauge?
Hi Ana,
Thank you for your question! For this project, any row gauge will work as long as you are achieving the stitch (horizonal) gauge of 24 stitches = 4″ on larger needles. This means that you can knit as many rows as needed for your gauge to reach each length measurement checkpoint in the pattern (for example, 1 3/4″ in the ribbing; 12, 13, 14 inches from cast on edge for back body; etc.).
I hope this helps clarify things, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi! I am wondering-if I wanted to add some decreases in the lattice section for shaping, how could I do that without losing the bias and texture? I’ve tried k2tog on each end of the WS rows and it’ didn’t pan out.
Hi Annie,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that the best way to approach this is to swatch. You can work up a small swatch in the lattice stitch pattern and experiment with different decrease techniques on a piece of knitting that’s not attached to your project. I’d be happy to help you brainstorm as well! If you could let me know what sort of shaping you’re trying to achieve, that would be helpful.
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I’d love to make this top in a cotton or linen yarn as I live in a hot and humid part of Australia. Would it be suitable if I could find a yarn with the correct gauge, or do you have suggestions for a suitable yarn?
Thanks,
Lucy
Hi Lucy,
Thank you for writing in! This pattern will work in any sport-weight yarn and we believe a cotton blend would work wonderfully for your climate! We would recommend checking out Cotton Pure which is 100% organically grown cotton, making it a great yarn for lightweight fabrics! I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella