Cable Back Shell
The hard part about having a favorite item of clothing is that it wears out. About a year ago I knit a summer shirt called the Cap Sleeve Lattice Top, and boy, oh, boy, has it seen some action. Shockingly, there’s little sign of wear and tear. To keep it that way, I thought I’d knit up another sleeveless sweater to work into my rotation.
The Cable Back Shell, is perfect for the days I’m not wearing my Cap Sleeve Lattice. A simple knit with a few special moments of intrigue: twists and turns, dips and dives. Wait, now I’m thinking the Cap Sleeve may be just right for days I’m not wearing my Cable Back Shell!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
This lofty cashmere top is a cloud of a shirt that hovers off the body with feminine elegance. Only Jade Sapphire’s sumptuous 2-Ply Mongolian Cashmere could produce such an ethereal fabric.
The Cable Back Shell is knit flat, starting at the bottom of the back and moving up and over the shoulders and down the front. Two short seams and you’re done, just like the Cap Sleeve Lattice Top. I hope you like its cousin just as much! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoCableBackShell. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4) skeins of Jade Sapphire’s 2-Ply Mongolian Cashmere. Each skein is 400 yards/ 55 grams; approximately 770 (875, 985, 1080, 1190, 1300) yards required. This is the color Ivory.
- US size 4 (3.5 mm), straight needles or 24-inch circular needle
- Cable needle or spare double pointed needle
- Stitch holder or scrap yarn
Shop our wonderful collection of fingering-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
7 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
XSmall (Small, Medium, Large, XLarge, XXLarge)
- Bust Circumference: 33 (37½, 42¼, 46½, 51¼, 56) inches
- Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 21¼, with directions to lengthen in 2½-inch increments
- Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 13¼ (12¾, 12, 11¾, 11¾, 11½) inches, with directions to lengthen in 2½-inch increments
EASE: This piece is designed to fit with an ease of at least 2 inches
Notes
C22B: Cable 22 Back. Place 11 stitches on cable needle or spare double point and hold to the back of work, knit across following 11 stitches, then knit across 11 stitches on cable needle. For a cable tutorial, please click here.
Pattern
Back
Cast on 126 (142, 158, 174, 190, 206) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end.
Row 2: K2, *p2, k2, repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 2½ inches, ending with Row 2.
Next Row (wrong side): Change to stockinette stitch, beginning with a purl row, and work for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
Cable Row (right side): K52 (60, 68, 76, 84, 92), place marker (pm), C22B (see Pattern Notes above), knit to end.
**Work in stockinette stitch for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
Cable Row (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), C22B, knit to end.
Repeat from ** five more times or, to add 2½ or 5 inches in length, repeat from ** six or seven more times.
Work in stockinette stitch for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
Shoulders and Neck
Row 1 (right side): K2, *p2, k2, repeat from * to end.
Row 2: P2, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 1¼ inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
Next Row (right side): Work in established rib pattern for 38 (46, 54, 58, 66, 74) stitches, place previous 38 (46, 54, 58, 66, 74) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn, bind off 50 (50, 50, 58, 58, 58) stitches in pattern, removing stitch marker, work in rib pattern to end. [38 (46, 54, 58, 66, 74) stitches remain for each shoulder]
Front
Note: You will work the top Left and Right sides of the Front separately, starting with the Front Left. Stitch counts in the following two sections do not include the stitches on hold.
Front Left Shoulder Ribbing
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end.
Row 2: K2, *p2, k2, repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until there are 2½ total inches of ribbing, including ribbing at top of Back, ending with a wrong-side row.
Front Left Neck
Row 1 (right side): [K2, p2] twice, pm, knit to end.
Row 2: Purl to marker, [k2, p2] twice.
Row 3 (increase row): [K2, p2] twice, sm, k1, m1R, knit to end. (1 stitch increased)
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 four (four, four, five, five, five) more times. [43 (51, 59, 64, 72, 80) stitches]
Next Row (increase row): [K2, p2] twice, sm, [k1, m1R] twice, knit to end. (2 stitches increased)
Next Row: Purl to marker, sm, [k2, p2] twice.
Repeat previous 2 rows two more times. [49 (57, 65, 70, 78, 86) stitches]
Next Row (increase row): [K2, p2] twice, sm, [k1, m1R] three times, knit to end. (3 stitches increased)
Next Row: Purl to marker, sm, [k2, p2] twice.
Repeat previous two rows one (one, one, two, two, two) times. [55 (63, 71, 79, 87, 95) stitches]
Next Row (increase row): With right side facing, cable cast on 8 stitches, [k2, p2] four times, sm, knit to end. [63 (71, 79, 87, 95, 103) stitches]
Next Row: Purl to marker, sm, [k2, p2] four times.
Next Row: [K2, p2] four times, sm, knit to end.
Repeat previous two rows until piece measures 8 (8, 8, 8½, 8½, 8½) inches from the end of the Shoulder Ribbing.
Cut yarn and place Front Left stitches on hold.
Front Right Shoulder Ribbing
Note: You will now be shaping the Front Right. Stitch counts in the following two sections do not include the Front Left stitches on hold.
Rejoin yarn with wrong side facing.
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end.
Row 2: K2, *p2, k2, repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until there are 2½ inches of ribbing, including ribbing at top of Back, ending with a wrong-side row.
Front Right
Row 1 (right side): Knit to last eight stitches, pm, [p2, k2] twice.
Row 2: [P2, k2] twice, sm, purl to end.
Row 3 (increase row): Knit to 1 stitch before marker, m1L, k1, sm, [p2, k2] twice. (1 stitch increased)
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 four (four, four, five, five, five) more times. [43 (51, 59, 64, 72, 80) stitches]
Next Row (increase row): Knit to two stitches before marker, [m1L, k1] twice, sm, [p2, k2] twice. (2 stitches increased)
Next Row: [P2, k2] twice, sm, purl to end.
Repeat previous 2 rows two more times. [49 (57, 65, 70, 78, 86) stitches]
Next Row (increase row): Knit to three stitches before marker, [m1L, k1] three times, [p2, k2] twice. (3 stitches increased)
Next Row: [P2, k2] twice, sm, purl to end.
Repeat previous increase row one (one, one, two, two, two) times. [55 (63, 71, 79, 87, 95) stitches]
Next Row (increase row) (wrong side): With wrong side facing, cable cast on 8 stitches, [p2, k2] four times, sm, purl to end. [63 (71, 79, 87, 95, 103) stitches]
Next Row: Knit to marker, sm, [p2, k2] four times.
Next Row: [P2, k2] four times, sm, purl to end.
Repeat previous two rows until piece measures 8 (8, 8, 8½, 8½, 8½) inches from the end of the Shoulder Ribbing, ending with a wrong-side row.
Join Front Right and Left
Row 1 (right side): Knit to marker, [p2, k2] twice, you will work the remaining 8 stitches of the Front Right and the first 8 stitches of the Front Left together. To do this, place 8 stitches from Front Left onto spare double pointed needle or cable needle and hold needle parallel to the working needle, with the working needle with the remaining stitches of the Front Right in front of the doubled pointed needle with the Front Left stitches, *[p2tog] twice (1 stitch from Front Left together with 1 stitch from Front Right), [k2tog] twice (1 stitch from Front Right together with 1 stitch from Front Left), repeat from * once. Now, continue working across Front Left stitches on hold, [k2, p2] twice, knit to end. [118 (134, 150, 166, 182, 198) total stitches]
Work in stockinette stitch across all stitches until the Front length is 2½ inches shorter than the Back length, ending with a right-side row.
Front Ribbing
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end.
Row 2: K2, *p2, k2, repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until ribbing measures 2½ inches.
Bind off in pattern.
Side Seams
Fold the piece at the shoulders. Starting just above the bottom ribbed edges, use mattress stitch to sew the Front and Back together, ending 8 (8½, 9¼, 9½, 9½, 9¾) inches before the shoulder fold.
Armhole Edging
Beginning at bottom of armhole, rejoin yarn. Binding off stitches as you pick them up, pick up approximately 3 stitches for every 4 rows.
Weave in your ends and you’re finished!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Wow! This looks like it is right out of a couture show!
I have some Jade Sapphire silk/cashmere 2 ply that I bought at Purl last year and have been saving for a special project. Would that work here?
Your work is amazing. Thanks for sharing.
this is beautiful! thank you for showing the construction too – very cool way that the seamless neckline is created.
This sweater is so elegant and feminine. Love the look.
It is lush! LOVE LOVE LOVE it!! xo
I already knit your Lattice Top and love it so now I have this gorgeous beauty to knit!
Thank you for keeping me busy!
It's beautiful! I really need to learn how to knit! x
Lace weight seems too thin for my style. Would you recommend a fingering weight or heavier?
This is a lovely sweater with simplicity, but has a
dramatic look to it. Thank you for sharing…I always look forward and enjoy
The Purl Bee emails.
Veronica
I really love the look of the sweater. Even my seventeen year old daughter would like one. Guess I will be making two. Thank you.
This is beautiful, both in construction and finished garment. Is there a cotton or silk yarn I could use instead? I, personally, cannot wear cashmere in the summer – it would shrink on my body!!
Hi Jane.
The 2-ply Silk/Cashmere would be perfect! So beautiful, with a bit more sheen and drape. Please let us know how it turns out!
Laura
Hi Tina.
I can definitely recommend some other yarns. While I did use a lace weight yarn to make this, it is knit on the loose side due to how cashmere blooms. At 7 stitches to the inch you could use any number of fingering weight yarns (link below).
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters%5B%5D=3
Hi Jody.
Ever since I knit that White Caps Cowl, I have been in love with Habu's Cotton Slub. It will definitely change the look of the piece a bit, but it is one option. It will be a bit on the thinner side… https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8701-Habu-Textiles-Cotton-Nerimaki-Slub
Ultra Pima Fine is another option, it is a bit thicker
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/6299-Cascade-Yarns-Ultra-Pima-Fine
Have you ever worked with Linen…
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters%5B%5D=28
Habu and Euroflax make lovely linen yarns.
Lastly… I would check out Anzula's lace and fingering weight yarns… They do the most elegant blends.
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?company=371&filters%5B%5D=3
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?company=371&filters%5B%5D=2
Thanks for asking. Hope this helps. Let me know if you'd like any more guidance.
Laura
hi Laura,
Would Anzula Mermaid work for this? I have two skeins which woudl be enough yardage for the small size. Would you recommend any changes in needle sizes for this yarn in particular?
thanks,
Magda
Hi Magda,
Thank you for the comment. I would recommend trying out the Anzula Mermaid on size US 3 needles. I think you should achieve a similar gauge but I would recommend doing a quick little gauge swatch just to be sure.
Feel free to write back if you need anymore suggestions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Jody,
I forgot about Alchemy's Silken Straw… such a gorgeous yarn. It might be just the thing!
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1408-Alchemy-Silken-Straw
Laura
Hi Megan,
I don't see your comment above, but I swear you wrote in asking about the Wash My Lace from Anzula… Wash my Lace would be a wonderful substitute. It isn't going to bloom quite as much as the cashmere does, but it's a great yarn choice.
Laura
Thank you!
Oh, how I love this! I did the Cap Sleeve Lattice Top also and love it, so will have to do this one. Saving up so I can do the cashmere – what a luxurious sweater to knit and to wear. Such a lovely design. I am now finishing your Knit T-Shirt with just one more sleeve to go. I did it out of Euroflax in ivory and I must say, it is a really beautiful pattern, too! I do love all of Purl Soho designs and always look forward to the next one.
I love love my cap sleeve lattice top! And it's cousin looks just as lovely 🙂 I was wondering, as I already have a cap sleeve look with the cap sleeve lattice top, if there is a simple modification you could recommend to make this into more of a tank top? I was thinking some simple decreases along the back about where the armhole would start and then similar increases along the front would do the trick but do you have any suggestions?
Could you tell how much is needed from third skein fir size S ? I would love to make this one, but really can't afford this yarn (and anyway I'm from France and it seems I can't find it here).
Thank you.
Hi! I'm intrigued by using linen for this instead (namely for durability)… Could you tell me more about the Habu Dyed Linen – there's virtually no info/description of it on the purlsoho website.
Between that and the Euroflax and the Sylph – would I follow the same instruction (i.e., same needle size)? How much yarn would be needed? For a S or M you have 3 skeins each of the cashmere (which totals 1200 yd), but since it's also enough for the L, I assume there's left-over.
Since the linens come in smaller sizes (anywhere from 270-370 yd/skein), I don't want to over-buy.
Anyway, I'm new to yarn substitutions (I almost always use the recommended yarns), so I'm a bit paranoid about it still coming out nice. Thanks for any advice!
This is lovely – thank you SO much for sharing the pattern! … stilll swooning! 😉
Gorgeous! Is cashmere comfortable enough to wear in the summer?
Hello Marie and Veronica,
Here are the yardage requirements: 770 (875, 985, 1080, 1190, 1300) yards.
Veronica,
The Habu Hand Dyed Linen is lovely, it's quite thin, but lovely. I would definitely recommend the Sylph over the Habu Hand Dyed Linen though, just for a little extra body.
We will be sure to get more of a description of the linen up on purlsoho.
Thanks,
Laura
It's gorgeous, your pattern is really impressive, simple and sophisticated at the same time. Can't wait to finish my current project and start this one!
Hi Cup + Penny,
I will definitely sport some very thin cashmere on cool summer nights, but I wouldn't dare wear it at noon on a humid 90 degree day.
Laura
I'd love to make this beautiful pattern with Anzula's Squishy, but 2 skeins is the exact yardage you said is required for the xs size. Is it too risky to buy just two? Thanks so much for the beautiful pattern.
Jessica Stoun
—
Hi Jessica,
I didn't see your comment above, but I wanted to address it so it's cut and pasted here.
If you are planning on making it exactly as I did then no, you will be fine. But if you plan on lengthening it or knitting it at a different gauge, then I would buy 1 more skein.
Laura
HI! I am working on this right now, and I think I noticed an error in the pattern. On the front right section, where you increase the 8 stitches with the cable cast on, you then say knit to the end. I think it should be purl to the end, because it is on the wrong side. Otherwise, great pattern, really easy to follow and it's turning out beautifully so far!
Thanks,
Sarah
Sarah!
You are absolutely correct! Thank you so much. The pattern has been corrected.
Thank you again.
Laura
I think I may have found another small error in this beautiful pattern.
When ending the ribbing on the back it says to end with a wrong side row but the next direction is to start stockinette with a wrong side row. Shouldn't the ribbing end with row 2 (a right side row)?
Hello Robin!
You are so very very right. Thank you for writing in. I really appreciate you taking the time. I have corrected the pattern.
Thanks again,
Laura
This is a beautiful vest! Is there any possibility of creating the option to add long sleeves to the pattern? Or to point me to an existing pattern?
Hopeful,
Kristin
Hi Kristin,
Thank you for your interest in this pattern. Unfortunately we do not currently have the resources to expand this pattern to include long sleeves… You could in fact, pick up along the armhole and work down to the wrist, decreasing as you go. It would make a nice drop shoulder design. You could add the ribbing at the wrist to tie it all together.
As for other patterns, we have you seen the Everyday Linen Raglan, different style but similar-ish weight… http://purlbee.squarespace.com/the-purl-bee/2012/6/10/lauras-loop-everyday-linen-raglan.html
If you decide to pick up at the shoulders and knit down, do let me know if you'd like help or get stuck anywhere.
Good Luck,
Laura
Has anyone made with sleeves? There aren't any on ravelry, and I'm afraid of ruining such a beautiful finshed object (http://www.ravelry.com/projects/LGN/cable-back-shell) by adding something awkward looking. i'd love to see a picture of a sleeved cable back shell, if anyone made one.
LGN,
What a vibrant color your chose!! Looks great.
I personally have not tried adding sleeves, but I have thought about it, and I think others have too…. (I responded to a similar comment from Kristin just above your comment). If you do it… please let us know! I'll keep an eye on your Ravelry page.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Would your Purl Soho line weight yarn work for this shell?
Thanks,
Jennie
Hi Jennie.
Yes, it sure would!
Laura
Hi.
question about the pattern. when you get to the front right section – toward the end. right before you repeat the last 2 rows for 8 inches. shouldnt it be {P2, K2} four times , sm, purl to end? not twice as stated so it matches the knit row above?
Hello Danielle.
YES! You are absolutely correct. I have corrected the pattern and added a note on our Errata page. Thank you so much for taking the time to write in and share your (very right) thoughts.
Best,
Laura
Hi Laura – another question. should i block this sweater when complete? is it ok with cashmere?
thanks
danielle
Hi Danielle.
Great question. I definitely blocked mine! I did not submerge it in a bath of water, but rather used a steam iron and hovered over the fabric, dampening it only slightly with hot steam, then I gently tugged at the fabric vertically then horizontally to even out my stitches.
Laura
This is the first non-sock or scarf pattern that I've ever attempted. I was worried able using cables, but now that I'm more than half way done, I'm amazed at how much easier this was than I expected. I love this project, and I'm so thankful for the way your instructions and photos were put together. I will most definitely be trying another one of your patterns when I'm done with this one. Thank you.
Hi….I love this gorgeous sweater and recently started working on it. I’m fairly new to knitting, so I work a little slowly. I’m about half-way up the back and I’ve realized that I should have made it in a small instead of a medium. My question is this- I really don’t want to tear it all out and start over, so is there a way to reduce the size? Is it possible to make the front smaller, so that the side seams are a little more forward instead of directly on the side? If so, where would you start reducing?
Thanks so much for this tutorial, by the way!
Hi Jessica.
Your idea for narrowing the garment is great work around… just as long as you don’t mind the side seams not being perfectly at the center of your sides. The Fronts are worked separately as I’m sure you’ve already read. On each side, after working the ribbing, you could periodically decrease along the armhole edge by knitting 2 together a few stitches in from the edge on the FRONT LEFT and ssk a few stitches in from the edge on the FRONT RIGHT. This will narrow up the front and bring those side seams forward a bit.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Do you have a PDF or printer friendly version of this pattern? When I’ve tried to print it but it comes up at 30 pages with all kinds of stuff overlaid.
Hi Jeannette-
There is not a PDF available of this pattern, unfortunately. We are working on making the site easier to print from but in the meantime we recommend that you use printfriendly.com. It’s easy to use and will get rid of all that weird extra stuff.
Thanks so much for getting in touch!
Molly
Dear purl bees,
This is my first non scarf project ever – in garment- cause I I have already knit the amazing hedgehogs! I’ m very grateful to your team because, without even knowing, you helped me to came across a very difficult situation. I owe you all the knitting pleasure …
As a newbie a I have a question about the project. I cant understand what I have to do for the armhole edging. Normally, after side seams, there is already an armhole left. What do you mean by “binding off stitches as you pick them up, pick up approximately 3 stitches for every 4 rows. ” Armhole stitches aren’t already bind off by being the edge of the project?
Nancy
Hi Nancy.
Thanks for writing in! Aren’t Whitney’s Hedgehogs the best?!!
Regarding your question on the Cable Back Shell… You are correct, there aren’t any live stitches at the armhole, but often times, with a garment, if you leave a vertical edge of knit fabric without “finishing” it, it will stretch out over time and lose its shape. So to prevent this, we “finish” the armhole by going along the armhole opening, using a needle and the yarn, picking up about 3 stitches of every 4 stitches (pick three up skip one, pick three up, skip one, etc) and then bind them off as we go. So you’d pick up a stitch, then a second stitch and then bind that first stitch off, then pick up another stitch and bind one off, pick up another, bind off another, and on and on until you’ve worked around the entire armhole.
Please let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Thank you so much for the answer! I will send you a photo when the top is finished. And yes, Whitney’s Hedgehogs are the cutest knitted animals ever!
Hi! I’m currently working on knitting this now and I’m noticing my ribbing not coming out as cleanly as shown on the picture, I was wondering if the ribbing pattern should be *K2 P2* for each row repeating, instead of 1: K2, *P2 K2*, 2: P2 *K2 P2* for each row repeating?
Hi Margot.
Thanks for writing in.
I wrote the ribbing so that, on the right side, it begins with 2 knit stitches and ends with 2 knit stitches, so that means on the wrong side it begins with 2 purl stitches and ends with 2 purl stitches. I did this so that it is symmetrical and because ending on 2 knit stitches makes the edge curl under, rather than out, and I found that important since the piece isn’t seamed all the way to the bottom edge, but rather there is a slit there.
Ribbing often looks better once it’s been blocked. Did you do a swatch first? Just to see how the yarn would behave before and after blocking?
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Laura
It looks like you made size 33 for your size 34 dress form. Is that right?
Hi Marie C.
Yes! You are correct. It’s a little small on our poor mannequin.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Row 3 of the front right (the first increase row) instructs you to …m1L, k1, sm [k2, p2] twice. Should this be [p2, k2] twice to align with the rib pattern in the preceding rows 1 and 2?
…Thank you kindly for your beautiful patterns and wonderful service.
Sue (a big Purl Bee fan from Australia)
Hi Sue.
Thanks for writing in!!
YES! You are absolutely correct. I have corrected the pattern!!
Thank you so much Sue for pointing this out!
Laura
I have seen your finest pattern by ravelry, and on your site the comments of knitters.
Is this pattern the corrected pattern?
Thank you very much.
Uta müller
Hi Uta.
Yes, this pattern is correct! Any errors or typos have been fixed!
Thanks.
Laura
I have two skeins of Anzula’s Mermaid and am considering using it for a lighter version of this shell. Would you recommend this yarn for this project, and if so, would you have any suggestions on changing up needles? I tend to knit on the tighter side..
Thanks,
Magda
Hey Magda,
Thank you for the comment! One of our floor staff employees made this pattern with the Anzula Cloud which is the same weight as the Mermaid. She used a size 3 needle to achieve the 7 stitches per inch the project requires so I recommend making a gauge swatch before you cast on the project.
I hope this helps and feel free to respond if you have anymore questions!
Happy Cabling!
Jake
This is a beautiful pattern…thank you for making it available. I am wondering if omitting the cable would change the number of stitches for the back. Looking at the pattern it doesn’t seem like it but I thought I would check.
Thank You.
Hey Sandra.
Thanks for the kind words about the pattern.
If you decide to omit the cable, still cast on the same number of stitches.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Is it possible to work this sweater in the round? I’m not the best when it comes to matress stitch. I always seem to have a few extra on one side at the end unless it’s a thick yarn. 🙁 Thank you for your help.
Hi Katrina,
Thank you for the comment! This project should be doable in the round if you are comfortable altering the pattern as such. It will still require the chest and upper back be knit flat to make armholes and a neck opening but that will allow you to avoid doing the mattress stitch.
I’d love to hear how that works out and feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Good Luck!
Jake
Hello!
I’m finally working on the sweater, became side tracked with some scarfs, and I am wondering if it’s possible to get this pattern in row count instead of inches. Thank you.
Hello Karina,
The row gauge is approximately 10 rows per inch. Hope this helps! Happy knitting! -Alyson
Can you add this to the pattern? I kind of assumed it was 7 rows per inch as well since it didn’t say! It’s still coming out looking great but I know I’ll make one in a different colour and I’m a perfectionist 😀
Hi Brianne
Thanks for letting us know, we will try to get it updated shortly!
Happy Knitting
Jessica
Ok, so one last question/confirmation (hopefully). Your diagram shows the front part from underarm to shoulder is 9-1/4 inches while the back is 8 inches. I just want to make sure that both the front and the back should be 13-1/4 inches. i.e. work 13-1/4 inches in the round. Then I would put the front stitches on a stitch holder and work back (8 inches) to front (9-1/4 inches) then kitchener stitch the front together.
Hello Katrina!
Sounds like your plans to create this in the round are coming along very well! It makes sense to me that the front would be a little longer than the back to make some space for our women-ly curves 🙂 I think its intentional!
Let us know how it goes! -Alyson
What a versitile pattern! I have made it in linen and in a wool/cashmere blend. What a difference! Both are gorgeous and barely look like the same pattern. Guys say the linen one is sexy (!). I think that in wool, a longer length would look better maybe. Thanks for yet another great pattern!
Hi Katherine, Do you remember which yarn you used for the linen version?
What does sm mean? I know what pm means, but I haven’t ever seen sm.
Hello Katrina!
This abbreviation means “slip marker.” Its simply reminding you to transfer the marker from the left needle to the right needle. Thanks for asking! -Alyson
Thanks! I thought so, but since this is a gift I didn’t want to assume.
I’m done with the sweater and I just wanted to leave my words of thanks for helping me out in making this gorgeous sweater!! You all have assisted me in everything from picking out a less expensive yarn to confirming what I think the pattern is telling me to do. I really do appreciate what you all do for us here who love your patterns, shop and support!
Hello Katrina!
We’re so happy to have worked with you through this process! Keep up the hard work and happy knitting! -Alyson
Bonjour est ce possible d’avoir ce patron en français ?
Hello, Elodie!
Thank you for writing in! Unfortunately, we do not have a French translation of this pattern available. Sorry!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Just a suggestion for people: you might want to make this sweater an inch or two longer. Have fun!
Hi, I was curious if I could use anzula squishy instead? Of course I would do a gauge.
Thanks,
Cassie
Hi Cassie,
Thanks for writing us! The Anzula Squishy is a bit thicker than the cashmere, but I think that since the Squishy doesn’t bloom as much you can get away with it. Do your gauge and decide from there, but I think you’ll be just fine!
Thanks,
Adam
Thank you! I’ll give it a try.
This is a lovely sweater and the yarn looks scrumptious. I’m curious about the brand of needles you are using.
Thanks, Linda
Hello Linda,
Thanks for the kind words! You can use any circular needle for this but I recommend Addi Turbo Rocket because the tip is nice and pointy for thin yarns. We only sell Addi brand circular needles and they come in blunt tip, bamboo and olive wood.
Thanks,
Adam
I’m not sure I’m binding off the picked up armhole stitches correctly. Am I to bind off the picked up stitches without knitting them?
I love the pattern… Thank you!
Hi Betsy,
Thanks for the kind comment! Yes, you will not knit the picked up stitches. The bind off is only for decorative edging. You will pick up two stitches then pass the first stitch over the second. Next you’ll pick up the next stitch and bind it off just like the last. I hope this clears things up!
Best,
Adam
You say there is 2″ of ease in this pattern. Negative or positive ease?
Hi Rita,
The ease in this is positive in this pattern.
Thanks,
Adam
This pattern is gorgeous! Whoever designed this has wonderful taste! I was wondering if I could knit up this pattern in a size Medium, with an addition of 2 inches of length in the body of the pattern, using 3 balls Anzula’s squishy yarn? Thanks in advance!
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! I think you could get away with doing three skeins of Squishy, but I would buy an extra one just in case. You could always see how far you get with the three skeins and if you don’t reach the 2 extra inches on the front, it can turn into a high-low top. Just a suggestion!
Best of luck,
Adam
Hi guys!
Thanks for a beautiful pattern (and the instructions to increase the length – it matters a lot for tall knitters)! Quick question – would it make a difference in the seaming if I did a slip stitch selvedge edge, vs. knitting or purling the first stitch on the row? Is one recommended over the other?
Thanks,
Cara
Hi Cara,
You can certainly do a slip stitch selvedge. It won’t affect anything!
-Adam
Hi! I am loving this pattern and so close to finishing! I’be never done something with armhole edging before and I’m a bit confused by it. If I can get an explanation of what this is supposed to do to the sleeves I think it would help me get the concept of what I am doing better.
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in and congratulations on almost finishing! The arm hole edging helps to prevent the arm edges from rolling under and creates a neat and lovely finish to the arm hole. The edging can also tighten up the arm hole if it is a touch loose!
I hope that this helps and best of luck!
Cassy
I couldn’t be more excited to try my first real, seamed garment. The seaming is what I am most nervous about. Do you recommend a row counter so that the seams match up? Just worried that the rows won’t match up and all will be lost when I get to that point. Is there some other trick? Thanks from a pretty newbie knitter! Gorgeous top BTW!
Hi Tia,
Thanks for writing in! Don’t be nervous, you can do this! When I am seaming up garments, I love to use locking stitch markers to help me out. I’ll attach the two sides using the stitch markers at various points and this helps so that my seams are nice and even and do not shift as I work my way up a seam. While we do not have a seaming video, I know that there are plenty of examples out on the internet that could be helpful!
Best of luck!
Cassy
Hi there! Question for you–I love this pattern, but the suggested yarn is a little pricey for me. Could you suggest an alternative? Thanks so much for your help 🙂
Hi Sara,
Thanks for writing us! I suggest you use Anzula Cloud or possibly Purl Soho Line Weight. Hope you like the suggestions!
-Adam
Hello,
First, I really like that top, it’s really gorgeous! It is the first time I decided to knit something for me, and I would like to know if I need to “block” my work before sewing it on the side and doing the armholes’ binding.
Thank you,
Pauline
HI Pauline,
Thanks for writing in! Congratulations on your first project for yourself! We did not block the sweater before working on the armholes. That said, you absolutely can if you would like. Especially if you are a tighter knitter, blocking before picking up can help give you a better idea of how the finished piece will fit. Just be sure to block after you have completed this as the yarn will relax a bit in the blocking process.
Best,
Cassy
Hi! I bought some cattail silk this summer and was thinking of making this garment. Thoughts!?! Btw I’d love visiting your shop, I just wish my husband hadn’t been with me I would have probably spent more time just perusing.
Hi Michelle,
Using our Cattail Silk as a substitute for the 2-ply cashmere would make a beautiful top! I would recommend doing a gauge swatch to make sure you like the finished drape and feel of the knitted fabric since the fiber content of these yarns are so different!
Happy knitting!
Carly
This is knitting up wonderfully for me in baby alpaca! I saw the question about finishing the sleeves above. Is there any suggestion you can provide that would help me to add a bit “more sleeve” to the arm holes so that it’s more in the direction of cap sleeve instead of a sweater vest look? Would appreciate any help you have here! Thank you!
Hi Ashely,
Thanks for your question! Unfortunately we do not currently have the resources to expand this pattern to include sleeves. You could in fact, pick up along the top and part way down the sides of the armhole and work short rows to create a cap sleeve. This will require a bit of trial and error but if you are up for a challenge, it could be quite nice!
Best,
Cassy
Good evening:
I’m making this sweater for a friend of mine and I’m up to the stockinette for 19 rows and going to do the cable but as i read the instructions i’m getting confused already.
What does this mean:
**Work in stockinette stitch for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
Cable Row (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), C22B, knit to end.
Repeat from ** five more times or, to add 2 1/2 or 5 inches in length, repeat from ** six or seven more times.
Work in stockinette stitch for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
Thank you so much for your help.
I will probably be bugging you for more help after I get through this challenging part.
Thanks again.
Concetta…)
Hi Concetta,
Thanks for writing in! I will try to clarify this for you! For this portion of the pattern, you will repeat everything between the “**” five times OR if you would like to add 2 1/2 inches to 5 inches of length, you will repeat six or seven times. I find it helpful to write this out long form from time to time. For 6 repeats (the original repeat plus the 5 additional repeats), the pattern would read:
Work in stockinette stitch for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
Cable Row (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), C22B, knit to end.
Work in stockinette stitch for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
Cable Row (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), C22B, knit to end.
Work in stockinette stitch for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
Cable Row (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), C22B, knit to end.
Work in stockinette stitch for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
Cable Row (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), C22B, knit to end.
Work in stockinette stitch for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
Cable Row (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), C22B, knit to end.
Work in stockinette stitch for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
Cable Row (right side): Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), C22B, knit to end.
Once you have completed this section you will, work in stockinette stitch for 19 rows, ending with a wrong-side row.
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
Hello Cassy:
Well first of all, I want to thank you for your reply and have ripped and started this sweater quite a few times. I’m a novice at knitting, but am not giving up on this gorgeous sweater.
I’m finally down to the part before the next row and now this is where the ?’s come in.
I do continue with the paragraph below, which I do undersand.
Next Row (right side): Work in established rib pattern for 38 (46, 54, 58, 66, 74) stitches, place previous 38 (46, 54, 58, 66, 74) stitches on stitch holder or scrap yarn, bind off 50 (50, 50, 58, 58, 58) stitches in pattern, removing stitch marker, work in rib pattern to end. [38 (46, 54, 58, 66, 74) stitches remain for each shoulder]
BUT I DON’T UNDERSTAND THIS. WHERE AM I ENDING THE SWEATER? IT SAYS I’M WORKING LEFT & RIGHT SIDES SEPARATELY.
HELP, I’M LOST AND THANK YOU..)
FRONT
Note: You will work the top Left and Right sides of the Front separately, starting with the Front Left. Stitch counts in the following two sections do not include the stitches on hold.
Hi Concetta,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you are on the right track so far! Although it says to work the left and right portions separately, the sweater is knit all in one piece so you will be continuing with the stitches you already have instead of casting off or casting on a new piece.
After completing the row you included in your comment, you should have the stitches for the right shoulder on a stitch holder, the center stitches bound off, and the stitches for the left shoulder still on the needle. If you keep scrolling a bit more in the pattern, you will see instructions for the Front Left Shoulder Ribbing and Front Left Neck, which you will work using just the stitches that are still on the needle. Once you have completed those instructions your sweater should look just like the picture immediately under the Front Left Shoulder Ribbing heading, and you will cut your yarn and place those stitches on another stitch holder.
Next, you will return the stitches for the right shoulder to your needle, rejoin your yarn, and work the instructions for the Front Right Shoulder Ribbing and Front Right Neck on just those stitches. At this point, you will work the instructions to Join Front Right and Left, and will once again have just one set of stitches without anything on holders to complete the rest of the top.
I hope that helps! Let us know if you need any other parts of the pattern explained!
Best,
Julianna
Good Morning Julianna:
Thank you so much for replying back to me.
I’m going to give it a go after I fix the error I made..ugh. Had to pull out a few rows.
If I’m stuck, I just may call you at the store or hop on over I’m in Bklyn.
Have a great day…)
Hi Concetta,
I’m so glad you are persevering! We are always here to help, either online or in person!
Best,
Julianna
Hi!
I was wondering if it would be possible to add sleeves to this sweater. If so, are there any major changes to the pattern? Thanks!
Hi Chloe,
Thanks for your question! Unfortunately we do not currently have the resources to expand this pattern to include sleeves. You could in fact, pick up along the top and part way down the sides of the armhole and work short rows to create a cap sleeve. This will require a bit of trial and error but if you are up for a challenge, it could be quite nice!
Best,
Cassy
I’d like to knit this beautiful piece so that the front neckline goes across, similarly to the back neckline. Could you help me adapt the pattern? I’ll be knitting in XS size. Thank you!
Hi Beatrix,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly can give adapting the neckline a go! At present, we do not have the resources to adapt a pattern but I think that with a little trial and error, you could certainly give it a go! The main things to keep in mind are that you will want to make sure that your neck hole is large enough to comfortably go over your head and that in general, necklines in the front will need to be lower than in the back to fit comfortably. You could try casting back on the neck stitches that you bound off once you are done with the shoulder ribbing. Again, this may take some trial and error but if you are up for the challenge, I’d go for it!
Happy knitting!
Casst
Hi there,
I’m curious to learn if there’s any way to add sleeves onto this pattern? Ideally 3/4 sleeves is what I’m thinking.
Many thanks in advance!
Karin
Hi Karin,
Great question! I would look to our Over-the-Top Top for inspiration – it is constructed very similarly to the Cable Back Shell, but includes small cap sleeves. Once you have created these cap sleeves, it should work quite well to pick up stitches around each sleeve opening and knit to your desired sleeve length, as we did in our Striped Summer Shirt.
Happy knitting, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi there,
what a lovely top – sooo beautiful! I´m not sure about what size to knit considering the ease. Is the given bust circumference a body measurement to determin what size to knit or is it a garment measurement? If it is garment, is the ease already included?
Thank you!
Hi Claudia,
Thanks for reaching out! The bust circumferences in the size information are the finished measurements of the garment. We recommend that this top fits with two inches of ease, so you should choose a size that measures two inches larger than your actual bust measurement. However, if you prefer your sweaters to fit a little looser or tighter, you can use the finished garment measurements to choose whatever size will fit you the way you want it to!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! I’m confused at the “Joint Front Right and Left” part. Can you post a video showing how to p2tog with one stitch from Front Left together with 1 stitch from Front Right? Thank you!
Hi Claudia,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t have the resources at the moment to put together a video for this step, but I think I can help! You might get a little more information on how to do this from our Knit Hem or Three Needle Bind Off videos. These videos only shows knit stitches, but the concept of holding the needles parallel and working together stitches from the front and back needle is the same, no matter whether you are knitting or purling!
All the best,
Julianna
Hi there,
I’m in love with this pattern! The yarn is a bit expensive though, do you think that your Sweetgrass Fine would work for this? Thanks in advance!
Hi Katherine,
Thank you so much for the kind words! Although you will have to knit a swatch to make sure, yes, I think Sweetgrass Fine should be a wonderful substitute for this top! Better yet, you will only need 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2) skeins for each size.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Getting ready to start this sweater; very excited. One question: On the Ravelry website, there’s a notation:
Errata available: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knit/errata/ purlsoho.com
But the link isn’t working. Is this error still in the directions? or has it been updated?
Thanks so much.
Hi Terry,
Thanks for reaching out! Here is the link to the Errata! If you scroll down a bit you will find the note for the Cable Back Shell. The only correction made is Under FRONT RIGHT, the second to last line of instructions has been changed to: Next Row: [P2, k2] four times, sm, purl to end.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m not an experienced knitter and I’m having trouble with the armhole finishing. I understand what the pattern says, but it’s just not coming out nicely. The edge looks messy, as opposed to clean and “finished” as it should. An experienced knitter friend suggested an alternative of picking up stitches all the way around the armhole and then binding them all off, rather than binding off as you pick up. Any feedback on whether this might provide a cleaner edge? Or, any other suggestions? Thank you!
Hi Jennie,
Thank for writing in. I agree with your friend’s advice! Picking up all the stitches and then binding them off on the next round will definitely make the edge look neater, since the extra round of stitches that produces will help to even out the tension.
All the best,
Lili