Striped Summer Shirt
There was a great big, old, white clapboard house near where I spent my summers as a kid. The shutters were white. The doors were white. The fence that wrapped around the vast corner lot was even white. And under each and every window was a white flowerbox overflowing with brilliant red geraniums. A house that nearly disappeared during the snowy winters was enlivened every summer by those rows of exuberant red.

While a lot of red is pretty powerful stuff, a well-balanced dash of it adds vibrancy and spice, elegance and timelessness.
To design a shirt evocative of that beautiful home from my memories I turned to Habu Textiles. The white “clapboard” backdrop is a narrow ribbon-like yarn called Silk Gima. The silk stitches create a subtle texture perfect for planting my “flowers”: garter ridges of red and salmon in Habu’s Linen Wrapped Silk. This multi-fibered yarn creates depth within the stripes and a glow, not unlike those sun-lit geraniums, where the colors transition from one to the next.
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!

This Striped Summer Shirt is my flowerboxes. Summer is nearing, and I am ready and raring to sport these charming stripes! –Laura
PS: In a sailor boy mood? Click below to see an alternate blue color palette!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoStripedSummerShirt. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials

- Main Color (MC): 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) skeins of Habu’s Silk Gima, 100% silk. Approximately 730 (820, 910, 1010, 1105) yards required. I used the color 00 White.
- Contrast Color 1 (CC1): 2 cones of Habu’s Linen Wrapped Silk, 99% silk, 1 % linen. Approximately 270 (295, 320, 350, 375) yards required. I used the color 5 Red.
- Contrast Color 2 (CC2): 1 cone of Habu’s Linen Wrapped Silk, 99% silk, 1 % linen. Approximately 110 (130, 155, 175, 200) yards required. I used the color 8 Salmon.
- US 2 (3 mm), 32-inch circular needles (A circular needle is required because the stitch pattern, when worked flat, requires you to slide the stitches from one end of the needle to the other. I highly recommend using Skacel’s Addi Turbo Rocket circular needles. They have the tips of Skacel’s lace needles and the body of their original nickel-plated Addi Turbos!)
- US 2, 12 or 16-inch circular needles (optional; for picking up and working upper sleeves)
- Set of US 2 double pointed needles
- 1 removable stitch marker

For a blue colorway…
- MC: 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) skeins of Habu’s Silk Gima, 100% silk. In the color 00 White.
- CC1: 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) cones of Habu’s Wool Crepe, 100% wool. This is the color 3 Blue.
- CC2: 2 cones of Habu’s Wool Crepe, 100% wool. This is the color 5 Light Blue.
Shop our wonderful collection of fingering-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
26 stitches and 35 ½ rows = 4 inches in striped stitch pattern, blocked (See BEGIN STRIPING section below for swatching in the round and/or see CONTINUE BACK EVENLY for swatching flat.)
NOTE: Blocking this fabric drastically changes the gauge, so it is essential you block your gauge swatch. I suggest submerging your swatch in water rather than simply spritzing or steaming it. After submerging, gently squeeze out any excess water, then lay the swatch flat on a towel and pin in place to dry. Allow the swatch to dry completely before you measure the gauge.
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
XSmall (Small, Medium, Large, XLarge)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34½ (38¾, 42½, 46¾, 50½) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 21¾ (22¼, 22 ¾, 23½, 24) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 inches, with directions to modify
- Length from Center of Neck to Cuff: 26½ (27½, 28½, 29½, 30½) inches

EASE: This piece is designed with a 2 to 3-inch ease.
SAMPLE: Size XSmall is pictured here.
Notes
s2kp (slip slip knit pass): slip two stitches together knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitches together over knit stitch and off needle. [2 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Body
Begin at Bottom Edge
With MC, cast 224 (252, 276, 304, 328) stitches onto the longer circular needle. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On. Place marker and join for working in the round being careful to not twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 1½ inches from the unrolled cast on edge.
Begin Striping
NOTE: For some extra tips visit our Working Stripes in the Round Tutorial.
Round 1: With CC1, knit.
Round 2: With CC1, purl.
Rounds 3, 4 and 5: With MC, knit.
Repeat Rounds 1-5 twenty one more times (or until pieces measures approximately 10½ inches from unrolled cast on edge, unblocked). Don’t be alarmed at how short the Body may look at this point; it is designed to block to 14 inches. To alter the bottom-hem-to-underarm length multiply your desired length by ¾ and work to that unblocked measurement.
Divide Front and Back
Round 1: With CC1, knit 112 (126, 138, 152, 164) stitches, place these stitches on hold for FRONT, knit to end of round. [112 (126, 138, 152, 164) stitches remain for BACK]
Back
NOTE: You will now be working back and forth in rows rather than in the round. Each row in this pattern ends with the instructions to either “turn” or “slide” the work:
“Turn” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with a circular needle. That is to say, put the needle in your left hand into your right and the needle in your right hand into your left, and flip the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
“Slide” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needle. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
Shape Back Sleeves
Row 1 (wrong side): With CC1, knit to end of Back stitches, slide.
Cut CC1.
Row 2 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.
Row 3 (right side): With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, knit across these cast on stitches and then knit to end, turn. [118 (132, 144, 158, 170) Back stitches]
Row 4 (wrong side) With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, purl across these cast on stitches and then purl to end, turn. [124 (138, 150, 164, 176) Back stitches]
Row 5 (right side): Join CC1, knit to end, turn.
Row 6 (wrong side): With CC1, knit to end, turn.
Cut CC1.
Row 7 (right side): With MC, knit to end, turn.
Row 8 (wrong side): With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, purl across these cast on stitches and then purl to end, turn. [130 (144, 156, 170, 182) Back stitches]
Row 9 (right side): With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, knit across these cast on stitches and then knit to end, slide. [136 (150, 162, 176, 188) Back stitches]
Row 10 (right side): Join CC1, knit to end, turn.
Cut CC1.
Continue Back Evenly
NOTE: For this section do not cut CC2 between stripes. Instead, loosely carry CC2 up the edge. This minimizes the number of ends you’ll have to weave in.

Join CC2 on wrong side…
Row 1 (wrong side): With CC2, knit to end, slide.
Row 2 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.
Row 3 (right side): With MC, knit to end, turn.
Row 4 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.
Row 5 (right side): With CC2, knit to end, turn.
Row 6 (wrong side): With CC2, knit to end, turn.
Row 7 (right side): With MC, knit to end, turn.
Row 8 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.
Row 9 (right side): With MC, knit to end, slide.
Row 10 (right side): With CC2, knit, turn.
Repeat Rows 1-10 five (five, six, six, seven) more times.
FOR SIZES — (Small, –, Large, –) ONLY
Repeat Rows 1-5 one more time.
FOR ALL SIZES
Next Row (wrong side): With CC2, knit 36 (43, 47, 53, 59) stitches, place these stitches on hold for BACK LEFT SHOULDER, loosely bind off following 64 (64, 68, 70, 70) stitches for NECK, knit to end, place previous 36 (43, 47, 53, 59) stitches on hold for BACK RIGHT SHOULDER.
Cut CC2 and MC.
Front
Shape Front Sleeves
Slip FRONT on-hold stitches onto longer circular needle. Join CC1 to wrong side and…
Work Rows 1-10 of the SHAPE BACK SLEEVES section, above.
Continue Front Evenly
Work Rows 1-10 of the CONTINUE BACK EVENLY section, above, six (six, seven, seven, eight) times.
For Sizes — (Small, –, Large, –) Only
Work Rows 1-5 in the CONTINUE BACK EVENLY section, above, one more time.
For All Sizes
Next Row (wrong side): With CC2, knit 36 (43, 47, 53, 59) stitches, place these stitches on hold for FRONT RIGHT SHOULDER, loosely bind off following 64 (64, 68, 70, 70) stitches for NECK, knit to end. [36 (43, 47, 53, 59) stitches remain on needle for FRONT LEFT SHOULDER]
Cut MC.
Shoulders
Left Shoulder
With the FRONT LEFT SHOULDER stitches already on the longer circular needle, working from neck-side to shoulder-side, slip the BACK LEFT SHOULDER stitches onto the other end of the needle. The tips of the needle should exit the stitches at the shoulders’ edge. You will join the Front and Back Shoulders with wrong sides together in order to have a decorative seam on the outside.

Holding the needles parallel in your left hand, use either the shorter circular needle or a double pointed needle to work a 3-needle bind off to graft the shoulder stitches together. For extra help, please visit our 3-Needle Bind Off Tutorial.
Cut CC2.
Right Shoulder
Orient the FRONT RIGHT SHOULDER stitches and BACK RIGHT SHOULDER stitches onto the longer circular needle as you did for the left shoulder stitches. With wrong sides together, join CC2 and use a 3-needle bind off to join the two sets of shoulder stitches.
Cut CC2.
Sleeves
Seam Underarm
NOTE: Before you seam the cable cast-on edges at the underarm, make your job easier by first weaving in the Contrast Color tails, just around this area.

To seam the first underarm, hold the FRONT and BACK cable cast on edges parallel. Use a tapestry needle threaded with the MC yarn to sew together these edges, starting at the armpit and working outward. Sew under the knit stitch at the cast on edge of one side and then under the knit stitch directly opposite. Continue back and forth until you reach the end.
Pick Up for the Sleeve and Start Striping
With right side facing and starting to the left of the underarm seam, use the shorter circular or double pointed needles and CC2 to pick up a total of 77 (83, 89, 95, 101) stitches around the armhole. To do this, first pick up 2 stitches from the MC stitches to the left of the seam; then continue up the armhole, picking up 1 stitch for each MC row and 1 stitch at the 3-needle bind off ridge; then continue down the other side, picking up 1 stitch for each MC row; and lastly, pick up 2 stitches from the MC stitches just before the underarm seam. Place removable stitch marker and join for working in the round [77 (83, 89, 95, 101) stitches]
Round 1: With CC2, purl.
Rounds 2, 3 and 4: With MC, knit.
Round 5: With CC2, knit.
Cut CC2.
Transition Colors and Continue Evenly
Round 1: With CC1, purl.
Rounds 2, 3 and 4: With MC, knit.
Round 5: With CC1, knit.
Repeat Rounds 1-5 six (five, three, two, zero) more times.
Shape Sleeve
NOTE: If you started the sleeves on circular needles, change to double pointed needles when necessary.
Round 1: With CC1, purl.
Round 2: With MC knit.
Round 3: Remove beginning-of-round marker, with MC, k1, mark previous stitch with removable stitch marker, knit to one stitch before marked stitch, remove removable stitch marker and place on right needle.
Round 4: With MC, slip slip knit pass (s2kp; see NOTES above), knit to end. [2 stitches decreased]
Round 5: With CC1, knit.
Repeat Rounds 1-5 thirteen (15, 17, 19, 22) more times [49 (51, 53, 55, 55) stitches
Continue Evenly
Round 1: With CC1, purl.
Rounds 2, 3 and 4: With MC, knit.
Round 5: With CC1, knit.
Repeat Rounds 1- 5 three (2, 2, 1, 0) more time(s) or until 1 ½ inches shy of finished length.
Next Round: With CC1, purl.
Cut CC1.
With MC, knit evenly for 1 1/2 inches.
Bind off loosely.
Repeat the entire SLEEVES section for second sleeve.
Finish
Block sweater and allow to dry completely before you weave in the ends.

Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Beautiful project and story! Love it!
Love this summer sweater! I can't knit fast enough to keep up with all your wonderful patterns!
I love it! The yarn combination is really fantastic and seems like it would make a nice summery fabric.
LOVE THIS! Can't wait to cast on!
Thanks for another brilliant pattern.
I wish this was a crochet pattern! I am in love with this sweater!
Dear Purlbee,
this sweater is lovely – I totally am going to knit this one. The stripes gives this feeling of summer!
However, I have a yarn question – I have knit with the cotton gima previously and had a really hard time to keep a small a gauge. I think I was able to do 24 stitches for 4 inch on a # 1 needle while nearly strangulating the yarn, no way I could go down to the 26 the pattern is asking for. And I assume that the washing relaxes the fabric even more? Any hints? I am a pretty experienced knitter and being off by so much is unusual for me, maybe choice of needles helps?
thanks for all the lovely patterns!
It is so lovely and just makes me wish yet again that I was a knitter! xx
Is there any thought to ever posting a size smaller than a 34"? There are some of us out there that are more petite and would love to have a pattern that does not need to be adjusted to fit.
Hi Petra,
This yarn is the Silk Gima, not the Cotton Gima. You may be able to get the right gauge with the Silk rather than the Cotton. If not, have you thought of making the size smaller, but at your gauge? I can help you trouble shoot if you'd like.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hi Bette-
We try to accommodate as many people as possible with our sizing but unfortunately we don't always go small enough or large enough for everyone. We certainly want our patterns to be accessible to all sizes and we're so sorry if you've felt left out!
This particular pattern is meant to be a little oversized so the XSmall might work out for you since the 34 1/2" measurement is the finished chest circumference, not the wearers size. I have a 33-inch bust and the XSmall fit me well but if I were making it for myself I would actually want to make the Small size to make it slouchy. I think the Xsmall size would look nice on anyone with a 30-34-inch bust.
I hope this helps and thanks so much for writing in with your concern!
Molly
ps- We just posted a picture of me wearing this project on Instagram if you want to get a better sense of how it fits:
http://instagram.com/p/pBtZhLjhVC/
Thanks for such a beautiful pattern. I would like to do it in the blue colourway but wanted to be certain the amount of Wool Crepe you require (3 cones total) is correct as the yardage of the Wool Crepe is much less than the Linen Wrapped Silk.
Please advise. Many thanks!
Could you reverse the colors and use the Linen Wrapped Silk as the MC and the Silk Gima as the CC? I love red! Would it mess up the gauge? I really like so many of your patterns, but, forgive me, the sticker shock of your yarn is so discouraging that I have yet to make a design with your materials. Changing the colors around like this, if it were feasible, could make using not only your great pattern, but at least two of the yarns possible.
Ana!
Thank you so very much for bringing this to my attention. I have updated the skein requirement for the blue colorway.
Thanks again!!!
Laura
Can this be made without stripes? If so, is there any special instruction you'd advise?
I like the construction of this shirt; and your instructions look doable for a knitter like me who isn't' an expert in sweaters!
Thanks :^)
Hi – I love this new summer sweater! I ordered the red and white yarns from Purl Soho and can't wait to cast on. I was wondering, though, if you know about how colorfast the red yarns are? I worry about the red stripes running when I wash and block the sweater. Do you have any tips/tricks to help prevent this from happening? Thanks! hk
I love the look of this sweater. I'm not the best sweater knitter, and I actually am really terrible at joining arms to body. I've never tried the method you use where you pick up stitches and shape the arms that way, I will probably have much better luck with it this way! Definitely on my knitting list for this summer 🙂
I really like this sweater. My budget doesn't allow for such pricey yarn. Any thoughts for something a wee bit cheaper. Thanks.
Hi Strix,
This could definitely be made without the stripes. The pattern is specifically written for the stripes, so there will be some adjustments / modifications you'll have to make once you divide the front and back and are working flat rather than in the round.
In general though… rather than working the row rounds or rows with the CC, instead just do one round / row of reverse stockinette.
I am here for any questions you may have along the way though. Just write in and we'll trouble shoot together.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi teknits,
Switching the yarns is going to create a whole different piece. The yarns behave quite differently and reversing the MC and CC will produce a very different fabric. That said, it's definitely worth a shot. The CC yarns are much thinner so the fabric will be much more transparent. The fabric, I imagine will also have more drape. And yes, of course, the gauge will probably change as well, especially the row gauge I think.
My apologies for the sticker shock. We try to make projects of varying costs. I understand this project is on the expensive side. These new Habu yarns were incredible inspiring and we couldn't resist working them up into a sweater!
The Silk Gima could be replaced with something like…
Louet's Euroflax: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/380-Louet-Euroflax-Originals
Alchemy's Silken Straw: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1408-Alchemy-Silken-Straw
Cascade's Ultra Pima: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7117-Cascade-Yarns-Ultra-Pima
Thank you for writing in. If you do invert the MC and CC yarns… I'd love to hear how it goes!
Laura
Hi HK.
Great question. I'm glad you wrote in. I was worried about the same thing. I blocked my gauge swatch and had no problems with the CC yarns bleeding or running.
With the garment, I wet blocked this piece, totally submerged it in water. Neither the red or the salmon yarns ran at all. They are extremely colorfast.
Thanks again for asking.
Laura
PS: July 22, 2014: A customer did experience running when she paired Habu's Linen Wrapped Silk with Alchemy's Silken Straw as the Main Color. Again, I had no issues with colors running, but I highly recommend fully blocking your swatch before beginning the project.
I did not experience any bleeding when I washed my gauge swatch.
Alchemy’s Silken Straw bleeds A LOT — I have knit the Silken Straw Summer Sweater 5 times and experienced copious bleeding each time when washing the finished sweater. Because this is a hand-wash project, though, and uses only one color (no striping), the bleeding hasn’t been a problem for me. However, I don’t believe I’d use Silken Straw for the Striped Summer Shirt.
HK,
Thanks for letting us know! This is incredibly helpful. Appreciate you writing in.
Laura
Hey Debbie.
I'd love to give you some suggestions for alternate yarns.I believe the Gima (MC yarn) is the more costly of the two. It could be replaced with something like…
Louet's Euroflax: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/380-Louet-Euroflax-Originals
Alchemy's Silken Straw: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1408-Alchemy-Silken-Straw
Cascade's Ultra Pima: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7117-Cascade-Yarns-Ultra-Pima
As for the CC yarn, here is a link to all of our lace weight yarns:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters%5B%5D=2
If you have any questions about these yarns I've suggested or any other yarns you've found or are considering using, please feel free to ask. I'm happy to discuss the best alternatives.
Thanks,
Laura
Now this really has SUMMER written all over it! Lovely top and thanks for the pattern!
Hi!
It looks like the silk gima is sold out on your site. Any chance you know when you will have the 00 colour back in stock?
Thanks! I can't wait to get the materials to knit this beautiful sweater!
beautiful project I like
Hi Ocean-
Please email customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com and they will be happy to let you know when we expect more of this yarn in.
Thank you!
Molly
Can't wait to make it!
I have never used these yarns and am concerned with the silk Gima. It feels very rough and rubbery to me. Does this relax and soften up after it is wet and blocked? Also in blocking do you recommend submersing it in water and then blocking and letting it air dry? I'm knitting this for my daughter-in-law and don't want to blow it.
Thanks
Hi Roberta,
Great question… YES! the Gima does soften up and become soft once it's been blocked. I blocked it by submerging it and then laying it flat to air dry.
What a lucky daughter-in-law you have!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
hi there,
just wondering if i should adjust the gauge or something for the red colorway…it cautions that it shrinks when washed? i don’t want to end up with a smocked sweater.
thank you!
Hey Tracy,
Thanks for writing in. I haven’t experienced any shrinking with washing, but I appreciate the heads up!
I highly encourage you (and everyone) to block your swatch in whatever way you plan on blocking or washing your final product. That way you’ll have a great idea of how the fabric is going to behave and you can troubleshoot accordingly.
Thanks again for writing in. And let me know about your experience for sure!
Laura
I love your pattern for the striped summer shirt BUT the materials alone are extremely expensive. Can you site some alternate yarns that might not break the bank?
Hi Barbara,
I’d love to give you some suggestions for alternate yarns. I believe the Gima (MC yarn) is the more costly of the two. It could be replaced with something like…
Louet’s Euroflax: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/380-Louet-Euroflax-Originals
Alchemy’s Silken Straw: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1408-Alchemy-Silken-Straw
Cascade’s Ultra Pima: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7117-Cascade-Yarns-Ultra-Pima
As for the CC yarn, here is a link to all of our lace weight yarns:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters=2
If you have any questions about these yarns I’ve suggested or any other yarns you’ve found or are considering using, please feel free to ask. I’m happy to discuss the best alternatives.
Thanks,
Laura
Hello there
I am in the process of knitting this lovely jumper. However, I am a little bit perplexed. I am knitting this in the small size and am just about to pick up the stitches for the sleeves. The pattern tells me to pick up 83 stitches but a few lines below it tells me that I will knit 89 stitches (all in the small size). Maybe that is a typo or I am misreading it. I think I will continue with 83 stitches and disregard the mention of 89.
Cheers
Anna-Lena
Anna-Lena!
Thank you so much for writing in.
That second stitch count is the one with the typo. It should be: 77 (83, 89, 95, 101) stitches
I am going to correct it in the pattern right now!
Thank you for asking and I am so sorry if this slowed down your knitting! Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Laura
This is amazing. My sister would like it for her birthday. But I don’t have the time or patience for size 2 needles. I know it changes the look somewhat. But do you have another light weight but slightly faster option (that works on a size 6 or 8 needle)? I would love to do this in one of your cashmere or cashmere blends. Her favourite colour is turquoise, which would be perfect for the hamptons theme of this piece. Thx so much. You site and patterns are outstanding.
Hi Sam.
You could easily add stripes (and opt out of the pocket) on our Sweatshirt Sweater (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/03/17/lauras-loop-the-sweatshirt-sweater/). It uses a size US #6 and #7. We no longer carry that yarn… but maybe check out the Flax Down (https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9658-Purl-Soho-Flax-Down) as a replacement yarn.
Or maybe look at our Bobble Yoke Sweater (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/01/16/bobble-yoke-sweater-now-sized-for-kids-and-women-too/). It suggests a size US#5, but is still a really quick knit and easy fast construction.
Let me know if you have any questions about either of those projects! What a lucky sister you have. Hope she enjoys whatever you end up making!!
Laura
I need a little help here, please. I just ripped out my first few inches because the piece was twisted. :/
Before rewinding the yarn I measured the piece to be 45 inches in circumference. I called myself knitting the size small, that’s 38 3/4 inches according the schematic. Even with three inches of ease that’s a big difference.
I’m using a size 2 needle and can’t explain the 45 inch width. Before I switch to making the size x small I’d like to know if blocking affects the width of the shirt as well as the length.
Thanks .
Hi Alice.
I am so sorry about the twisted stitches. We’ve all been there. What a pain!
As for the gauge… Did you happen to make a swatch? And then also, did you happen to block your swatch? These yarns make a wonderful fabric, but it’s really hard to measure the gauge of it until it’s blocked. Blocking it will make the fabric relax and have a drastic effect on the row/round gauge, but I don’t remember it having as huge an effect on the stitch gauge. I suggest making a large swatch and blocking it and going from there. You may find you need to switch needle sizes.
I hope this is helpful. Please write me back with any questions!
Laura
oh, so cute!
i love this.
Is this sized for a child or adult?
Hi Rita-
This is sized for adult women. The finished measurements can be seen under the “sizes” headline.
Thanks!
Molly
Love this look; but, I find silk to be too warm for summer in the humid south. Would the “skinny cotton” work up similarly in this pattern. Thank you.
Hi Vikki,
Thanks for writing in. Unfortunately the Skinny Cotton is too thick to use for this garment. I suggest looking at the Striped Spring Shirt and knitting with Cotton Pure. I hope you like the recommendation!
All the best,
Adam
I fell in love with this pattern so I ordered the materials. I am perplexed at how the silk gima feels while knitting. Still getting used to it. Such a different feel when I started striping. I am not the most experienced knitter, though I’m very patient and persistent. I know I can do this. Question, how best to join a new ball of these two fibers? Especially the silk gima.
Hi Martha,
Thanks for writing us! Yes, the silk gima is quite interesting to knit with! When joining a new ball of yarn you’ll want to leave about a 6″ tail of the old ball and just start knitting with the new one. You can tie a slip knot to maintain tension, but you will actually be weaving both ends in at the very end. With such a yarn it might prove helpful to weave in your ends, cut the excess and coat the end with some clear nail polish so it won’t slide out or fray. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Hi, I bought zen yarn garden serenity silk single for this project. But now I’m wondering if it will work well? Any help? It’s fingering weight, 75% merino, 15% cashmere and 10% silk.
Thanks.
The MC is the silk gima? That’s sport weight?
Hi Katie,
Thank you for clarifying. I realize now that I was looking at our updated version of this pattern when I replied to your original comment – my mistake! The MC is knit with Silk Gima which is listed as a sport weight, though it is on the lighter side so your yarn may work! I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch with the yarn you have and see if you are getting 26 stitches per 4 inches in striped stitch pattern.
Sorry about the confusion and let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I’m knitting up the medium size right now. The body and one sleeve is finished to the specifications of the pattern. The neck is too wide, the sleeves are too short, the body is ok but could be a tad bit longer. How much will wetting and blocking affect these issues?
Hello Denise,
Thank you for reaching out- I’m sorry to hear your project is not coming out how you planned! The amount that wet blocking will change your garment will depend on the fiber content of your yarn. Plant fibers are going to be more stubborn than animal fibers, so if you used linen, as the pattern calls for, you will not be able to change the dimension as much if you used an animal fiber.
For some extra tips check out our blocking tutorial.
I hope this is helpful and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Is this kit still available I n white and blues.
Hi Lorie,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we do not stock a kit for this shirt, but all the yarns are still available! You can click here to order Habu Silk Gima in White and Habu Wool Crepe in Blue 03 and Blue 05 in the quantities for the size you would like to make.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Could you suggest some yarns to use as substitutes for the contrast colors? The original yarns are no longer available. I’ve been looking at linen yarns, but not finding color combinations that are as nice.
Thanks!
Cindy
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest using Linen Quill or Brooklyn Tweed Peerie for the contrast stripes – both are the correct weight for the pattern and come in a wide range of colors so you can either choose colors similar to the original or your own color combination!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Would it be possible to get a yardage for all three yarns needed? I tried to do that math but the CC are no longer available so I don’t know many skeins to buy of a different yarn. Even just how much the originally suggested yarn length for each cone would help.
Thanks!
Hi Clara,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we do not have the exact yardages for each size of this sweater, but I can tell you the yardage of the original yarns! Habu Silk Gima has 105 yards per ball, and Habu Wool Crepe has 125 yards per cone.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi. To divide front and back, and in order to have my working yarn available, I had to knit an entire circular row with CC and then I transferred to a hold pin 1/2 the row. The next instruction is to start Row 1 on the wrong side, but I can’t because my working yarn is on the right side. I’m really stuck. HELP!
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you might have put the wrong half of the stitches on hold. Since both sides of the sweater are identical at this point, I would recommend putting the other half of the stitches on hold and returning your held stitches to the needle. This should result in your yarn being in the correct place to start working on the wrong side!
Best,
Julianna
Best,
Julianna
Yarn substitutes for MC?
Hi Natasha,
Thanks for your question. We have a few possible substitutions for the MC in the Striped Summer Shirt! First there is Cotton Pure, our 100% organic cotton yarn. We also have Wigeon, with a lovely 100% fine Falkland merino wool fiber content, and Brume, if you’d like a cool fuzzy halo-effect for your shirt!
I hope these recommendations help, and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
I would love to try this shirt. But I’m confused about the yarn weights used. I thought the MC was a fingering weight. But Cotton Pure is a Sport weight. And what about the CC? I’d like to make the shirt in cotton or linen. Even silk. Thanks very much,
Kath
Hi Kath,
We knit the main color with Habu’s Silk Gima which is listed as a sport weight, though it is on the lighter side. I’d say that either a fingering weight or a sportweight yarn would work to achieve the gauge of this pattern! It depends on how dense you’d like the knit fabric to be. We have a number of cotton, linen, and silk yarns in the fingering – sportweight range that would definitely work for this pattern:
Cotton Pure
Picnic Cotton
Field Linen
Cattail Silk
Hope this helps you plan your project!
All the best,
Lili