Bobble Yoke Sweater: Now Sized for Kids and Women Too!
Our Bobble Yoke Sweater is no longer just for itty bitties! When we posted our original pattern for Babies + Toddlers, your response was loud and clear, “I love it, but what about my 10-year old? Wait, what about me?!” We heard you, and so, we’re happy to announce that we’ve expanded our Bobble Yoke Sweater Pattern collection to include sizes for both Kids and Women. Now everyone can get in on the action!
The sizes may have changed, but the easy top-down construction and the charming details remain the same. The Bobble Yoke Sweater still starts at the collar with two strands of Jade Sapphire’s nearly weightless 2-Ply Mongolian Cashmere, moves on to a marled yoke that combines the 2-Ply with Purl Soho’s beautiful Line Weight merino, and finishes with doubled Line Weight for rich color and a soft-but-sturdy fabric.
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
And just like the original, this sweater is designed for heirloom giving, for passing down from mother to child or sibling to sibling, for knitting with love. It is that special! -Laura
Update: New Sizing!
August 30, 2021
A new look in new colors, our Bobble Yoke Sweater Pattern is now sized from 9-month old babies to size 14 kids. You knit this beauty up using two strands of super soft Line Weight merino. Click here to read more!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBobbleYokeSweater, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
For Women
- Yarn A: 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) skein(s) of Jade Sapphire’s 2-Ply Cashmere, 100% cashmere. Each skein is 400 yards/ 55 grams; approximately 270 (320, 370, 420, 460, 520) yards required. We used the color Ivory.
- Yarn B: 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino wool yarn. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 494 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1895 (2145, 2385, 2665, 2960, 3255) yards required. We used the color Steel Blue.
- A US 5 (3.75 mm), 16-inch circular needle
- A US 5, 24-inch circular needle
- A US 5, 32-inch circular needle
- A set of US 5, double pointed needles
- 2 stitch markers
- Stitch holders and/or scrap yarn
- A Bobble Yoke Sweater for Women Pattern (Please Note: The Women’s Pattern has been discontinued from purchase. For assistance, please contact us at customerservice@purlsoho.com.)
For Kids
- Yarn A: 1 skein of Jade Sapphire’s 2-Ply Cashmere, 100% cashmere. Each skein is 400 yards/ 55 grams; approximately 240 (255, 265, 285, 290, 320) yards required. We used the color Ivory.
- Yarn B: 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino. Each skein is 494 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1095 (1185, 1285, 1365, 1490, 1650) yards required. We used the color Pink Grapefruit.
- A US 5, 16-inch circular needle
- A US 5, 24-inch circular needle
- A set of US 5, double pointed needles
- 2 stitch markers
- Stitch holders and/or scrap yarn
- A Bobble Yoke Sweater for Kids Pattern
For Babies + Toddlers
- Yarn A: 1 skein of Jade Sapphire’s 2-Ply Cashmere, 100% Mongolian cashmere. Each skein is 400 yards/ 55 grams; approximately 95 (100, 105, 120, 140) yards required. We used the color Ivory.
- Yarn B: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino. Each skein is 494 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 505 (575, 685, 805, 935) yards required. We used the color Desert Blue.
- A US 5, 16-inch circular needle
- A US 5, 24-inch circular needle
- A set of US 5, double pointed needles
- 2 stitch markers
- Stitch holders and/or scrap yarn
- A Bobble Yoke Sweater for Babies + Toddlers Pattern
Here’s some color inspiration! I swatched up a few of our favorite Line Weight colors, combined with the 2-Ply Cashmere in Ivory…
Line Weight colors, Top Row: Yellow Yellow, Desert Blue, Super Pink; Middle Row: Steel Blue, Red Zinnia, Storm Gray; Bottom Row: Artemisia Green, Peacock Blue, Pink Grapefruit
Gauge
24 stitches and 34 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, holding two strands of Yarn B
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
For Women
32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 21¾ (22¾, 23¼, 24¼, 25, 26) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 (14½, 14½, 15, 15½, 16) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 18 (18, 18½, 18½, 18¾, 18¾) inches
Ease: This garment is designed with a 2- to 4-inch ease around the chest.
Sample: Size 36 is pictured here.
For Kids
Child Size 6 (7, 8, 10, 12, 14)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 28 (29, 30, 31, 33, 35) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 17 (17 ¾, 18 ¼, 18 ¾, 19, 19 ¾) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 10 (10 ½, 11, 11 ¼, 11 ½, 12) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 12 (12 ½, 13 ½, 14, 15 ¼, 16) inches
Ease: This garment is designed with a 3- to 4-inch ease around the chest.
Sample: Size 10 is pictured here.
For Babies + Toddlers
9-12 months (18 months, 2 years, 3-4 years, 5 years)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 20 (20 ¾, 22, 24, 26) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 12 (13 ¼, 14 ½, 15 ¼, 16) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 6 (7, 8, 8 ½, 8 ¾) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 6 ½ (7, 8 ½, 9 ½, 11) inches
Ease: This garment is designed with a 2-inch ease around the chest.
Sample: Size 2 years is pictured here.
Please Note: The Bobble Yoke Sweater For Women has been discontinued from purchase. For assistance, please contact us at customerservice@purlsoho.com.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I get your email but when I try to download a pattern, the message says that I am not a member. I do I become a member?
Hi Peggy-
You can download a free pattern by signing up for our mailing list here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/join-our-mailing-list/
However, this pattern is not available in that promotion. To purchase this particular pattern just click on the link in the Materials list above and it will take you to our webstore.
Additionally we have many patterns that are available for free here on the Purl Bee. To download one of those you just need to click on the “Print” icon on the right hand side of the page and save as a PDF>
Thank you for getting in touch and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Best-
Molly
I thought the swatches were mittens!
Hi Jess.
That’s too funny.
They sure would make fun mittens. I’ll have to remember that!!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Thank you thank you thank you! I’ve been hoping you’d rework the pattern in larger sizes ever since you published the toddler one. I know a seven year-old who is going to LOVE this. Now to decide on the color….
Hey-I want to make this sweater for my niece, but we live in Alabama and not sure if this will be too warm for here.
Any suggestions? Or make it and she can just wear it when weather permits.
Thanks!
Hi Greer.
While this sweater is made of Cashmere and Merino and will keep you warm, it’s fairly light weight. I’m originally from Georgia, and I think I could probably wear this at least 2, maybe 3 seasons of the year.
I hope this helps!
Laura
GREAT!
Thanks.
Will shoot my order in right now.
i buy your kids bobble yoke sweater, and i immediately start the 10 years old one, but i think there is a mistake in “separate for body and sleeve”
i can’t manage with the numbers of stitches… (how many for front, how many for back)
thanks for your answers!
sophie
Hi Sophie.
To separate for the the body and sleeves… first you work across the left shoulder stitches, you put those on hold, then you work across the back, then you work across the right shoulder stitches and put those on hold, and then finally you work across the front. Before this you had 270 stitches, you put 52 stitches on hold for each sleeve and you’re left with 166 stitches for the body (83 for the front and 83 for the back).
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
I’m stuck at the “back shoulders” part. I just finished round 1 and am hesitant about the short rows. If I am understanding this right, I knitted 49 out of the 78 stitches (for the 3-4 yr old). Then for Row 1, do I then finish knitting in the round and stop knitting 12 stitches before the new marker? I’m just confused about this part. Please help!!
Hi Marianne.
First of all, you can definitely omit this portion of the pattern if you’d like. It simply raises the back of the sweater up so that it doesn’t dip as low as the front. It is though optional and omitting it does make the sweater reversible, front to back wise. BUT… short rows are great, once it all clicks and makes sense. So I’m more than happy to walk you through this part.
First off… just in case you didn’t see it, we have a tutorial if you aren’t familiar with short rows or how to do a wrap-t: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/
Regarding the Bobble Yoke Sweater though… You have 78 stitches for Size 3-4, you work 49 of them and place a marker, then complete that round. At this point you’re at the beginning/end-of-round marker. Slip it and then you’ll start the short rows, working back and forth, turning the work after each short row before reaching the end of the round.
First, you’ll knit to 12 stitches before the new marker (that will be 49-12 = 37 stitches), wrp-t.
Then you’ll purl to 12 stitches before the next (beginning/end-of round) marker (37-12 = 25 stitches), wrp-t.
Then you’ll knit to 8 stitches before the next (new) marker, wrp-t.
Then you’ll purl to 8 stitches before the next (end of round) marker, wrp-t.
Then you’ll knit to 4 stitches before the next (new) marker, wrp-t.
Then you’ll purl to 4 stitches before the next (beginning/end-of-round) marker, wrp-t.
Then… you’re finally going to get to knit all the way to the end of the round!
Please let me know if this helps clear things up or if you have any questions at all!!
Laura
Love the sweater. Had been planning a dress with a top down raglan style using bobbles in the yoke.
BUT, am going to do on knitting machine.
Wish, either I was more adept at translating hand knit instruction or you would include MK instructions.
Machine knitting is making a comeback. Vogue Knitting Live in NYC proved that.
Hi Judy-
Unfortunately we don’t have any experience with knitting machines! I’m so sorry that we can’t be of more help!
Best-
Molly
hi there.
for the neckline the first line of the pattern states ‘With 2 strands of Yarn A, cast 66 (72, 72, 78, 84) stitches onto the 16-inch circular needle or double pointed needles’
what is the best way of doing this *knitting w 2 strands of yarn of the 1 color) with only 1 ball or yarn??
Thanks
Hi Simer.
You could wind the skein into 2 equal sized balls. Or you could wind the skein into a center pull ball so that you can pull from the inside and the outside simultaneously. Here’s a video for how to do it: http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/winding-a-center-pull-ball
Please let me know if you have any questions!
Enjoy the sweater.
Laura
Hi Laura. I’ve tried to knit the first step. I’m using 2 ply wool. It just won’t join in the round! I’ve tried 5 times. With needles smaller, bigger etc. I’ve been casting on super loosely. What am I doing wrong? So frustrating. I’m making the 2 yo pattern. Thanks.
Hi Simer.
I’m so sorry you’re stuck! Can I ask… what do you mean it won’t join in the round? Are the needles simply too long for the number of stitches you cast on for the neck? I used a 16-inch circular needle. What length have you tried? Maybe you could start with double pointed needles?
Please let us know how it goes!
Laura
I’m about to knit an 18-month Bobble Yoke sweater and in reading through the instructions, I thought it was odd that I would work 2 3/4 inches under “SHAPE SLEEVES” when the next smaller size only requires 1″ and the larger sizes require Leeds than 2 inches. Is this a misprint?
Hi Holly.
Thanks for writing in. The 2 3/4 is not a typo. But I understand why it may have raised a red flag. That just happens to be how the math works with spacing the decreases in the appropriate length for that size. If you take a look just blow that 2 3/4 inch dimension, you’ll see that for the 18 month size you are not repeating from the ** whereas the other sizes are, again, this is just how the math works out to get the appropriate shaping over the right length.
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks again for writing in. I hope you’re enjoying the pattern.
Laura
I love this pattern and want to make it for an infant. But his mommy is a very busy young woman. So I would like to knit this in a machine washable yarn. What do you recommend?
Hi Diane.
For a machine washable substitution, I would try Anzula’s Cloud: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8152-Anzula-Cloud. Cloud is slightly thinner than the Line Weight yarn used in the original. If you’d like something that is very slightly thicker instead, maybe try their Squishy: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7124-Anzula-Squishy. A great combo would be to one for Color A and one for Color B!
Let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Could you give me an idea of the skill level required for this beautiful sweater? (beginner; intermed; advanced?)
Hi Chris.
Thanks for writing in.
I guess I would say it’s intermediate. But I would hate to discourage you to not make it if you’re a beginner. It’s very clearly written and we mention tutorials you can reference throughout the pattern. Plus, we’re always here to help you!
Please let me know if you have any questions!!
Laura
Love your patterns
I am stuck on the increase round for the back shoulders for a size 8l It says knit 11, make 1, knit 23 m3 knit 12. That does not add up to 96 stitches. Am I reading this incorrectly? If I repeat then I would have too many stitches.
Thanks for your help.
Cornelia
Hi Cornelia.
Thanks for writing in!
So before you work that increase round you have 92 stitches. During the increase round you ending up making 4 new stitches. This gets your stitch count up to 96 stitches.
For size 8, that increase round goes…
Increase Round: K11, m1L, [k23, m1L] 3 times, k12. [96 stitches]
Here is how those 92 stitches are accounted for…
11 + (23 x 3) + 12
= 11 + 69 + 12
= 92 stitches
Here is how the 4 increases are accounted for…
You increase after that 11th stitch, then again after working 23 stitches, again after 23 stitches, and again after 23 stitches. 4 increases all together, getting you up to 96 stitches.
I am wondering if maybe you are using a different increase method that I used. These increases occur between stitches, not in stitches, so they don’t eat up the stitch count. Here’s a link to our m1L video tutorial: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/13/make-one-right-m1r-make-one-left-m1l/
I do hop this helps!
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Best,
Laura
Hello!
Just wondering if I would be able to use this pattern with size 6 needles. I seem to have every size needle except 5 and would love not to have to buy anymore haha.
Best,
Caroline
Hello Caroline!
Of course you could use size #6 needles, but the risk is that the pattern may not come out exactly in the size written in the pattern. Be sure to do a gauge swatch so that you can anticipate how the sweater will turn out. Who knows, you may be a super tight knitter in which case a size #6 would be optimal! Best of luck! -Alyson
Hello!
I am stuck on the yoke-bobbles!
I do knit the bobbles but with Bobble A I do not obtain any stitch increased and with Bobble-B I even obtain 1 stitch decreased! I am driving crazy about that. By the way, why are there two different bobbles (A and B)? I am trying to understand the logic.
Is there any video tutorial about this part?
Or, could you explain me the technique in other words?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Veronica.
You have some great questions here!
The bobbles are staggered. In order to perfectly stagger them, sometimes you have to make a bobble into a stitch and sometimes you have to make a bobble between two stitches. This is why there are two different bobble techniques! Both techniques result in a single increase. I’m afraid we do not have a video tutorial, but hopefully with this information, the photo tutorial in the pattern will make a bit more sense!
Please let us know if you have any additional questions!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Thanks a lot Laura.
I realized that, making bobbles, I had to knit only one yarn and consider the stitches as singles stitches (not doubled, as we knit the rest of the row). This is the reason because I had strange increasings / decreasings.
I understand now why there are two different bobbles. That explains why my bobbles are not staggered, actually quite scattered! 🙂
Thanks again!
Hello!
I’m really struggling with the bobbles. I’ve tried re-reading the instructions and looking at other bobble demos online, but I just can’t seem to grasp this. Any chance y’all will be posting a video for the bobble in this pattern specifically in the near future? I’m stuck with the knitting into the front and back of the bar/stitch and how many stitches I should be ending up with before p2tog. Thank you for any help you can provide!
-Adah
Never mind! I think I finally got it!
-Adah
Adah!
I’m glad you’ve got it figured out and you’re on your way! Please don’t hesitate to write us back with any questions.
Thanks.
Laura
I hope you’ll see this though this post was published a while back. Could I substitute the cashmere for some of your line weight? Are the equal in terms of weight? I just don’t know that I can justify cashmere for my six year old. I know I’ll need to wash it, at least a bit!
Thanks!
Hi Meredith! Thanks for writing in! Using the Line Weight only for this pattern is a great (and economical!) idea! Yes, you should definitely be able to obtain the correct gauge by holding Line Weight double in place of holding the 2 ply cashmere with Line Weight. If you’re looking for similar contrast, we would recommended using Line Weight in Heirloom White in place of the Ivory Jade Sapphire.
Keep us posted with the finished results!
Thanks and happy knitting!
Keith
Hi! So I just started knitting this, and I just wanted to make sure I haven’t made a mistake right at the beginning. Does the beginning of the round start at the back shoulders, and then go around to the front (so you are knitting across the back of the sweater first)? Thank you!
Hello Nicole,
Thank you for reaching out and sorry for the delayed response! Yes! For round 1 you will knit across the back, place a marker, knit across the front. After you have knit this round you will be working short rows back and forth to create the back shoulders.
I hope this clarifies things. Please let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Can this beautiful sweater be knit without the bobbles? My great-grandson says “no “bumps”.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! We totally understand! You can absolutely omit the bobbles! Where is says to make a bobble, you will just knit that stitch!
Best,
Cassy
Thanks. I love Purlsoho. Everything is so beautiful. I’m 83 yrs. old and made 3 very sad looking sweaters 50 years ago. Thanks to the internet I am finally learning how to knit. I never thought there was so much to learn. You people are the best.
Carol
Hi Carol,
What a great story! Thank you so much for your kind words! It makes our day!
Best,
Cassy
Is it possible to make shadow short rows while knitting in the round? I can’t seem to find directions for short rows in the round.
Thanks,
Carol
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! While I have never used shadow short rows in the round, you should be able to use them in the round. As short rows are knit flat even when working int he round (you knit back and forth when working short rows as in our Bandana Cowl).
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi!
Two questions. First, when working the sleeves, is the marker placed in the middle of the underarm row the end of row marker, or is it just in the middle so it doesn’t fall off? So, does the row end in the middle of the underarm row, or at the start?
Second, not specific to this sweater but whenever I M1L or M1R it creates a small, stitch sized hole in my knitting (I guess to create room for the new row?) is this normal? Should I just duplicate stitch over the holes when I’m finishing?
Thanks!
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for writing in and apologies for the delayed response! The marker placed in the middle of the underarm stitches is the beginning/end of row marker. The stitches are distributed so as to make them most even and to keep the marker in place while knitting.
It is curious that you are getting holes when knitting a M1R and M1L. These leaning increases are designed to leave no holes. I would check out our tutorial (which I use all the time). Essentially you will be knitting into the front of one of these stitches and into the back of the other to twist the hole that would be made if you simply knit into the bar between stitches or made a yarn over.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Increase Round 3,
K4, [MB-b, k7] 10 (11, 11, 12, 13) times, MB-b, knit to end of rounds. [99 (108, 108, 117, 126) stitches]
My bobbles aren’t aligning with the above rows.
What other row can I use for my alignment problem.
Maybe it’s just me. It can’t be me, could it.
What am I doing wrong.
Love the pattern.
Ida
Hi Ida,
n
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties! In this lovely pattern, increase round 1, 3 and all odd bobble rounds should align and increase round 2, 4 and all even bobble rounds should align. If increase rounds 1 and 2 aligned, there may be something amiss. I would suggest counting your stitches and ensuring that you have the correct number for round 3 and if not, you may need to tink back a round or so until your stitch count is correct.
I hope that this helps and please do not hesitate to reach out if you continue to have difficulties!
Cassy
Cannot find the pink grapefruit color for yarn B
Hi Kathie,
Thanks for reaching out! Pink Grapefruit is no longer available in Line Weight. All of our current colors can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9249-Purl-Soho-Line-Weight If you would like, you can substitute the Line Weight for Linen Quill if you prefer the colors available! It has a different hand and is not quite as soft but it does work up at the same gauge and is quite lovely in its own right!
Best,
Cassy
Hi! Is this pattern suitable for men?
Hello Christine,
Thank you for reaching out! I Think this would make a great men’s sweater. There is just short row shaping for the back shoulders so I don’t believe any adjustments would need to be made.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would love to make this for a child in LA. Her mother requests no wool. Would the cattail silk work? Would I still double it?
Thanks
Deborah
Hello Deborah,
Thank you for reaching out! You can use Cattail silk doubled for this project. It will have a a very different texture than using a woo, but the gauge will work out just fine!
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there!
I live down under and don’t have the pleasure of seeing the yarns in store to pick colorways. So I really rely on your colour suggestions. Would LOVE you to update your pictured swatches since you’ve changed the Line Weight colors! Even some with Anzula Cloud or Linen Quill as you suggest in the comments above. Just cruel looking at the swatches and then clicking on the yarn colors available and seeing none of them there.
Lizzie x
Hi Lizzie,
Thanks so much for reaching out, and we hear you that it can be difficult to select colors when you can’t see them in person! I will certainly pass your request for new swatches along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Hello! Is it possible to alter the pattern so that it has a mock neck? I imagine that simply knitting extra rows of ribbing at the beginning would just create a funnel.
I’d love it if the ribbed mock neck sat close to the neck. Thanks!
Hello Becky,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, you can just keep knitting until you are happy with the neck!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Simplemente saludarlos desde el sur de la Patagonia Argentina y decirles que me encantan todos sus modelos y me enloquecen sus lanas! Que pena que no lleguen a mi país. Cariños desde aquí!
I want to make a sweater for an adult out of Posy. I am wondering if you have a pattern to suggest. I was thinking about this one, but am really not adept at substituting yarns. Thoughts?
Hi Betty
Thanks for reaching out! The gauge on this sweater is 24 stitches to 4″, so the Posy would be a little too thin. A few patterns that would work for Posy would be LIghtweight Raglan Pullover or the Paint Pail Pullover I hope this helps!
Best
Jessica
I am having a hard time with the bobbles. I am a very tight knitter but I still keep getting holes alongside and above the bobbles. I’ve read somewhere that purling the bobble stitch on the next row might help. Any advice? Thanks so much!
Hi Quinn,
Thanks for writing in! I suspect this problem might actually come from knitting too tightly! When knitting a bobble, you want the stitches to be a little loose or puffy, and if you are trying to pull extra tightly while working the bobble itself, this could end up distorting the stitches around it. I would try to relax a little while knitting the bobbles to see if that helps, and you could also try knitting a small swatch with a bobble or two and blocking it. This should also help even out your stitches and, when the yarn blooms a bit, fill in the holes!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! I’m on the bobble portion of the pattern and have a quick question. Since the KFB part is done with only yarn B, at what point do you re-introduce yarn A? With the p2tog two times, or after the psso? I’ve been using both yarns to purl together, which I’m starting to think isn’t right. I’m hoping it won’t be too much of a problem because I don’t want to go back!
Also, what would be the best way to block this, given the cashmere?
Hi Adrianne,
Thanks for reaching out! You should only be using yarn B for the bobbles and won’t reintroduce Yarn A until you begin knitting once the bobble is finished. However, if you have been using both yarns that shouldn’t cause any problems overall!
For blocking, I recommend checking out our Blocking tutorial and out How to Hand Wash a Sweater tutorial (we actually used this sweater to demonstrate for this!)
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hello! Was this pattern once available for women’s sizing, but now only offered for baby/kids? Some places say women’s sizing available but I can’t find them anywhere. +1 vote for adult sizing options!
Hi Kristin,
Thanks for writing in about your interest in the adult sized Bobble Yoke Sweater! Please reach out to [email protected], and we can help you out further from there.
All the best,
Lili
Hi! Would cashmere merino bloom be a good substitute for the 2 ply cashmere? Thanks
Hi Sarah,
Thank you for asking! Cashmere Merino Bloom might be just a tad too thick for this pattern but it’s definitely possible! I’d recommend checking out this version we have used with Line weight held double for a nice mix of colors! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella