Working at Purl Soho, I have a front row seat to the parade of effortlessly chic people that give our neighborhood its renowned style. From here I can report that, for men and women alike, this season’s prevailing trend in neckwear is the bandana. Jauntily tied around the neck, it tops off everything from Sunday’s T-shirt and jeans to Friday’s night-on-the-town dress! The bandana is a sassy, casual touch that suggests that the wearer possesses an innate stylishness. It’s the perfect accessory for those cool mornings when you’ve hit snooze a few too many times and need to turn “thrown–together–in–a–rush” into “casually glamourous”!
My Bandana Cowl is inspired by my desire to make “effortlessly chic” even more effortless. I was so excited to create something with the same freshness as the tied bandana but without the fiddly aspect of actually having to tie anything!
I chose to make my Cowl out of Swan’s Island Bulky, a brand new yarn made from a beautiful blend of undyed merino and alpaca that feels wonderfully soft against the skin. The yarn creates a dense, rich fabric that’s cuddly perfection for the chilly days of fall!
Update
OCTOBER 14, 2012
Materials
- 1 skein Swans Island Bulky, naturally dyed colors are 100% Organic Merino and undyed colors (Natural, Oatmeal and Seasmoke) are 85% Organic Merino and 15% Alpaca. (This color is Oatmeal).
- A US #10, 16-inch circular needle
- Jumbo Locking Stitch Markers, 3 total (optional)
OTHER IDEAS
This cowl uses approximately 100 – 130 yards and would be stunning made out of many of Purl Soho’s yarns. Here are some beautiful options:
- 2 skeins of Jade Sapphire’s 8 Ply Cashmere, 100% Mongolian Cashmere.
- 2 skeins Blue Sky’s Techno, 68% Baby Alpaca , 10% Extra Fine Merino, 22% Silk.
- 1 skein Manos Del Uruguay’s Maxima, 100% Extrafine Merino
- 1 skein Cascade’s Eco Cloud, 70% Undyed Merino Wool and 30% Undyed Baby Alpaca
Gauge
4 stitches and 6 rows = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
Size
19 inches in circumference and 12 inches from top to bottom.
Notes
S2KPO: Slip 2 stitches together knitwise, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch. (This makes a centered double decrease.)
Pattern
Cast on 89 stitches.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Set-up Round: Purl all stitches.
Round 1: K43, S2KPO (see Pattern Note, above), knit to end of round. (87 stitches)
Round 2: P42, S2KPO, purl to end of round. (85 stitches)
Round 3: K41, S2KPO, knit to end of round. (83 stitches)
Round 4: P40, S2KPO, purl to end of round. (81 stitches)
The next section is worked back and forth in short rows, building from the point of the bandana to the back of the neck. You’ll be turning the work between each row instead of continuing around the needle. For a great Short Row Tutorial, click here!
Row 5: K42, wrap and turn.
Row 6: P3, wrap and turn.
Row 7: Knit to the wrapped stitch, knit the wrapped stitch making sure to pick up the wrap, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 8: Purl to the wrapped stitch, purl the wrapped stitch making sure to pick up the wrap, p1, wrap and turn
Repeat Rows 7 and 8 eighteen more times. Don’t worry if you lose count; you’ll know you’re done when you wrap and turn the stitches right next to the marker!
You’ve finished the short rows!
Next Round: With the knit side facing you, knit to the marker, making sure to pick up the wrapped stitch.
Continue with the knit side facing you, working again in the round. Knit 2 rounds, picking up the wrap of the first stitch.
Set-up Round: K18, place marker, k45, place marker, knit to end of round.
*Decrease Round: Knit to two stitches before the first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit to the next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to end of round. (2 stitches decreased)
Knit 3 rounds (or for 1/2 inch).
Repeat from * five more times. (69 stitches)
Next Round: Purl
Next Round: Knit
Repeat the last 2 rounds once more.
Bind off very loosely in purl. (I like to go up several needle sizes to bind off. In this case, I bound off with a US #15 needle.)
Weave in your ends and block as desired. Blocking isn’t strictly necessary for this project, but it significantly improves the drape and softness of the yarn. I’m personally convinced that Soak wash makes anything short of a Brillo Pad feel next–to–the–skin cuddly!
Enjoy your Bandana Cowl on all the brisk fall days to come! -Erin
PRINT
Hi Cassy and Adam! You have such a lovely way of writing back to knitters. I hope you can help me…
I’m terrible when it comes to knitting in the round. I decided to embark on the project on regular needles. My problem now is- when do i stop the short rows? I have lost count and have no marker.
Many thanks in advance for your advice!
Hi Lisette,
Thank you so much for your very kind words! If you have converted the pattern to work flat, the end of the row will suffice as the marker! That is to say that you will work the short row section until you wrap and turn the stitches right next to the end of the row!
I so hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi. I am not sure I am doing one of the steps correctly on rows 7 and 8. After the knit 1, it says wrap and turn. Do I wrap and turn the knit 1 stitch or the next stitch on the left needle? Thanks for clarifying.
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to clarify! You will wrap the stitch after the knit 1 and then turn your work!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Oh my gosh, the size of the swatch for the gauge is so….reasonably small?! What an unexpected treat to only spend a minute on a swatch instead of the usual half hour or so, and to be able to get started on this pattern sooner! Yay! lol
Thanks! 🙂
Thanks for sharing the pattern….I could not get the pattern to print without all the pictures 🙁
Hi Kate,
Thanks for reaching out! We do have a handy print function that can cut down the amount of pages dramatically!
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
Best,
Cassy
Hello!
First I must say that I am very impressed with your responses to questions! It’s refreshing to see that you really do read and reply to your customers ☺
Being fairly new to knitting, I feel the Bandana Claim is a good “next step” project for me. I have a question the wrap and turn that I can’t seem to find answers to online.
Row 5: K42, wrap and turn – after the wrap and turn am I knitting back to my stitch marker? Because then on Row 6 I’m only purling 3 then doing another wrap and turn without picking up stitches. S
Sorry, I’m confused…. It seems so simple but feels like I’m just not doing something right.
Thank you!
Hi Lisa,
Thank you so much for your kind words! I think that I can help! Once you complete your wrap and turn on row 5, the wrong side of the work facing you. You will then work row 6, ending with a wrap and turn so that the right side is now facing you! For this whole section, you will be working small rows (short rows) across the front of the bandana, working further across the piece each time!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I don’t understand. Row 6 is just a few purls, how do you get to the stitch marker, and where do you place them??
Hello Josephine,
Thank you for reaching out! Row 6 is where you will begin using short rows, This means you will be knitting back and forth, rather than in the round for this portion of the pattern. For a more detailed explanation of short check out our Tutorial.
I hope this clears things up and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Ready to make this with Mulberry Merino. Is there no adjustment for thinner yarn? Still stay with the same number of stitches?
Thanks
Hi Donna,
Thanks for writing in! At present, this pattern is only available in the gauge that it was originally written in! If you are up for a bit of a challenge, you can certainly give re-gauging it a go! You would certainly need to cast on more stitches for the pattern to work at a smaller gauge. Re-working it based on your smaller gauge will take a bit of trial and error but could result in a lovely finished piece!
Best,
Cassy
I cannot get your short row tutorial.
Hello Sue,
Thank you for reaching out! Is there a particular part of the tutorial that is confusing? Let me know if I can help you trouble shoot.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello!
I made this a month back, and while I was in love with the concept and felt it was an achievable difficulty level, I was not able to keep the stitches at the V of the banana straight. Mind curved to the side. I believe this just indicates I had a moving center stitch I was decreasing on… Any guidance here?
Thank you!
Hello Sylvia,
Thank you for reaching out! Just to clarify, which part of bandana is curved? Is it the garter stitch edge or the stockinette inside the garter stitch edge? Is it the decreases in the beginning or is it after you have started your short row?
If it is the first decreases, it is likely that the stitches got off. You will always want to start your S2KPO one stitch before the one below. I hope I can give you a bit more clarity!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi Purl Soho, thank you so much for this beautiful pattern!
This is my first time ever working a short row pattern and I actually think I have a fundamental misunderstanding/question: On rows 7 and 8, when you say “knit/purl to the wrapped stitch”, is this when I work my way back half way to the front to or back? Or am I working one spot continually?
Hello Julia,
Thank you for reaching out! In the section you are working back and fourth, as in you are not working in the round. This means you will be turning your work every row. The stitches that you have wrapped and turned on the previous rows will guide you as you go.
I hope this makes sense and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello, in the pattern, it states that in order to do the short rows to repeat rows 7 and 8 eighteen times but don’t worry about losing count because the last one would be right next to the stitch marker. However, I am working on the pattern right now and in order for me to finish the short rows at the end of the round it has taken much more than 18 repeats. I’m a little confused and wondering if I’m doing something wrong?
Hello Alison,
Thank you for reaching out! Make sure you are repeating rows seven AND eight 18 more times. This actually translates into 36 rows total. Also, whether or not you repeat these two rows 18 times or not, you will stop short rowing when you reach the beginning of round marker. Another thing to look at is if you are knitting one stitch after picking up the wrap. If you are wrapping and turning directly after picking up the wrap you might end up with more short rows. It should all work out!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for responding Marilla!
You were exactly right, I was forgetting to knit the one stitch before wrapping and turning. It’s all making so much more sense now.
Thanks again!
Alison
Hi! Thanks for sharing the model – it is really beautiful. I have a quick question. In case I want to knit this scarf in 23 inches in circumference, how do I increase the number of stitches and position S2KPO so that it’s right in the middle? On which point do I start the short rows?
I’m having really hard times calculating it 🙁 Please help!
L.
Hi Luna,
Thanks for writing in! The easiest way to make this cowl larger is to add a multiple of 4 stitches to the cast on, and then on Round 1, knit to one stitch before the center stitch of the cowl before working the SK2PO. On each of the next three rounds knit or purl one less stitch than the row previously before working the decrease.
To begin the short rows, on row 5, knit to one stitch past your center stitch, which should now be easy to see due to the column of decreases, work your wrap and turn, and then follow the rest of the short row instructions without changes. You will still have to decide on placement for the markers for the second set of decreases but once the short rows are complete you should be able to decide where to place the markers without too much trouble.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
To add to this question, how would I make it longer? I understand the adding multiples of 4 to increase the circumference, but I would like to make this like a big chunky scarf for our cold Canadian winters! What would you suggest? Should I just do a row or two of regular knitting between each decrease?
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
Great question! If you are referring to the decreases worked at the beginning of the pattern, although the tip of the point is shaped with a few decreases, the rest of the bandana is created with short rows, so you won’t be able to add extra length that way, and that would only elongate the triangular portion. I would probably add more length after completing the short rows, either before beginning the neck decreases, or by adding extra rows in between the neck decreases, to make the part of the cowl that goes around your neck as cozy as possible!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello!
The ssk, is it slip purl wise or knitwise? They both produce different looks surely so I don’t want to do the wrong thing.
Thank you!
Hi Vanessa,
Thanks for your question! We actually have a great video tutorial on performing the Slip Slip Knit decrease! Although it is also a valid variation to slip both stitches knitwise, you should never slip both stitches purlwise, as the decrease will then point the wrong direction and be indistinguishable from a regular K2TOG.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
I made this cowl several years ago using a bulky weight linen yarn. It’s great for warmer weather, but has been discontinued. My friends in Florida would love one, but not with any wool or warm fibers. Do you have any suggestions for a cotton, silk or maybe bamboo bulky weight yarn?
Love the pattern. It was a challenge at first, but the second time around it worked.
Thanks
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! Our Cotton Pure held double would be a lovely choice for a warmer weather cowl!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Greetings,
I just finished knitting up the Bandana Cowl and it is significantly larger than it is supposed to be. I believe I went wrong repeating rows 7 and 8. Of course I lost count of the number of rows I had done, but didn’t worry because the instructions say I’d be done when I have to wrap the stitch next to the marker. The only marker I placed, was the one to indicate the end/beginning of the round. Did I miss something in the instructions and didn’t place a marker I was supposed to? Or am I really supposed to repeat rows 7 and 8 until I reach the market that indicates the beginning of the round? Please help as I really like this cowl and would like to do it right. Thank you in advance for your assistance. Oh, and I simply love, love, LOVE this site!
Hello Sikoka,
Thank you for writing and for your kind words! There are a couple of things that could be happening here. The first thought I have is- when you pick up the wrap are you knitting the wrap with the wrapped stitch or are you knitting each separately? They should be knit together, so if you are knitting them separately that could be the cause of the largeness. The second thought I have is if you are remembering to do a knit or purl after knitting your wrapped stitch with its wrap every time, this could also add unnecessary rows making the cowl larger.
The final thought I have is if you are getting 4 stitches and 6 rows per inch in stockinette stitch. If you are a very loose knitter this would effect the size of the cowl.
I hope all of this makes sense and let me know if you have any other questions or If I can clarify anything for you.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Just finished the cowl and I’m so happy I can do Short Rows now! The attached link in the article was incredibly helpful. I wonder why knitters get overwhelmed by them. I thought they were great fun and fairly quick to get through. I love learning a new knitting skill. It opens you up to so many more patterns in the future.
The US15 bind off tip is something I’d never heard of before and something I’ll definitely apply to other patterns. However, doing the fat needle bind off immediately made the top of the piece super floppy. It instantly rolled over outward. I’m hoping some blocking will help a bit. Luckily, the cowl overall is a snug fit (I went with US9 needles) so the floppy top almost looks intentional. Great pattern. Will definitely make this again – only next time I might do US13 bind off instead.
I am making this out of a different yarn, a milk cotton.
Where do you start on this Cowl? I want to make sure I cast on enough stitches.
If it is the bottom, what is the length?
Hi Gale,
Thanks for writing in! The cast on for this cowl is the bottom edge, and the circumference at that edge measures about 22 to 23 inches.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi Cassie – I would like to knit this lovely cowl using German short rows instead of wrap-and-turn. Can you tell me how I would adjust the pattern stitch count, specifically in rows 7 and 8? Thank you, Helen
Hello Helen,
Thank you for your interest in our pattern! To be honest, I am not an expert in German short rows. From my understanding, German short rows use additional stitches and were you to use them, you would need to rework stitch counts to knit an additional stitch before turning your work. Our patterns are written using traditional short rows, so if you wand to use German short rows, you will need to alter the pattern a bit to accommodate them. I’d suggest checking out some resources on line on how to substitute German short rows for traditional short rows.
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Helen – Did you figure this out? I realize your comment was from a couple of months ago, but I figured out how to do this with German short rows, and will paste it here in case anyone else is looking for it.
An extra stitch is needed on the short rows than is called for in the pattern before turning the work, because that extra stitch is the one that is wrapped. (German short rows are wrapped/worked after the turn – “Turn and Work”.).
For example, the set-up rows where the series of short rows begins would read like this:
Row 5: K43, turn and work.
Row 6: K4, turn and work.
And the remaining short rows would read like this:
Row 7: Knit to wrapped stitch, knit the wrapped stitch, K2, turn and work.
Row 8: Purl to wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch, P2, turn and work
Hope this helps!
Hi! Currently working on this pattern. It was fun to learn the short rows and picking up wraps. I have a question though. When repeating the decrease rounds, do I knit 3 rounds after each one 5 times?
Hello Claire,
Thank you for reaching out- I’m happy to hear you are enjoying this project! Yes, those three knit rows are included in the decrease repeat. I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
This wrap and turn makes no since to me. I think the directions are not clear. I understand the wrap and turn, the tutorial was very good but the whole short row is totally unclear.
Hello Tracey,
Thank you for reaching out! Is there a particular part that is tripping you up? are rows 5 and 6 ok, or are those the problem rows? I hope I can help!
-Warmly,
Marilla
Hi, I am wondering if the pattern is for bulky weight yarn or worsted. Some of the suggested yarns are bulky and some are worsted. I want to do Christmas gifts in bulky merino. This pattern is lovely and very nice and simple looking. Thanks.
Heidi
Hello Heidi,
Thank you for reaching out! All the yarns we recommend fall into the Worsted/Aran weight category. Anything that can be knit comfortably on a US10 needle that gets you close to 4 stitches per 1 inch in stockinette stitch.
I hope this helps ad let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla