Working at Purl Soho, I have a front row seat to the parade of effortlessly chic people that give our neighborhood its renowned style. From here I can report that, for men and women alike, this season’s prevailing trend in neckwear is the bandana. Jauntily tied around the neck, it tops off everything from Sunday’s T-shirt and jeans to Friday’s night-on-the-town dress! The bandana is a sassy, casual touch that suggests that the wearer possesses an innate stylishness. It’s the perfect accessory for those cool mornings when you’ve hit snooze a few too many times and need to turn “thrown–together–in–a–rush” into “casually glamourous”!
My Bandana Cowl is inspired by my desire to make “effortlessly chic” even more effortless. I was so excited to create something with the same freshness as the tied bandana but without the fiddly aspect of actually having to tie anything!
I chose to make my Cowl out of Swan’s Island Bulky, a brand new yarn made from a beautiful blend of undyed merino and alpaca that feels wonderfully soft against the skin. The yarn creates a dense, rich fabric that’s cuddly perfection for the chilly days of fall!
Update
OCTOBER 14, 2012
Materials
- 1 skein Swans Island Bulky, naturally dyed colors are 100% Organic Merino and undyed colors (Natural, Oatmeal and Seasmoke) are 85% Organic Merino and 15% Alpaca. (This color is Oatmeal).
- A US #10, 16-inch circular needle
- Jumbo Locking Stitch Markers, 3 total (optional)
OTHER IDEAS
This cowl uses approximately 100 – 130 yards and would be stunning made out of many of Purl Soho’s yarns. Here are some beautiful options:
- 2 skeins of Jade Sapphire’s 8 Ply Cashmere, 100% Mongolian Cashmere.
- 2 skeins Blue Sky’s Techno, 68% Baby Alpaca , 10% Extra Fine Merino, 22% Silk.
- 1 skein Manos Del Uruguay’s Maxima, 100% Extrafine Merino
- 1 skein Cascade’s Eco Cloud, 70% Undyed Merino Wool and 30% Undyed Baby Alpaca
Gauge
4 stitches and 6 rows = 1 inch in stockinette stitch
Size
19 inches in circumference and 12 inches from top to bottom.
Notes
S2KPO: Slip 2 stitches together knitwise, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch. (This makes a centered double decrease.)
Pattern
Cast on 89 stitches.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Set-up Round: Purl all stitches.
Round 1: K43, S2KPO (see Pattern Note, above), knit to end of round. (87 stitches)
Round 2: P42, S2KPO, purl to end of round. (85 stitches)
Round 3: K41, S2KPO, knit to end of round. (83 stitches)
Round 4: P40, S2KPO, purl to end of round. (81 stitches)
The next section is worked back and forth in short rows, building from the point of the bandana to the back of the neck. You’ll be turning the work between each row instead of continuing around the needle. For a great Short Row Tutorial, click here!
Row 5: K42, wrap and turn.
Row 6: P3, wrap and turn.
Row 7: Knit to the wrapped stitch, knit the wrapped stitch making sure to pick up the wrap, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 8: Purl to the wrapped stitch, purl the wrapped stitch making sure to pick up the wrap, p1, wrap and turn
Repeat Rows 7 and 8 eighteen more times. Don’t worry if you lose count; you’ll know you’re done when you wrap and turn the stitches right next to the marker!
You’ve finished the short rows!
Next Round: With the knit side facing you, knit to the marker, making sure to pick up the wrapped stitch.
Continue with the knit side facing you, working again in the round. Knit 2 rounds, picking up the wrap of the first stitch.
Set-up Round: K18, place marker, k45, place marker, knit to end of round.
*Decrease Round: Knit to two stitches before the first marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit to the next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to end of round. (2 stitches decreased)
Knit 3 rounds (or for 1/2 inch).
Repeat from * five more times. (69 stitches)
Next Round: Purl
Next Round: Knit
Repeat the last 2 rounds once more.
Bind off very loosely in purl. (I like to go up several needle sizes to bind off. In this case, I bound off with a US #15 needle.)
Weave in your ends and block as desired. Blocking isn’t strictly necessary for this project, but it significantly improves the drape and softness of the yarn. I’m personally convinced that Soak wash makes anything short of a Brillo Pad feel next–to–the–skin cuddly!
Enjoy your Bandana Cowl on all the brisk fall days to come! -Erin
PRINT
I’d like to try this pattern using Cascade Yarns Eco Duo — 70% undyed baby alpaca and 30% undyed merino wool. (197 yds, 3/5 oz, 18 stitches = 4 inches, US #8 needle.
This is similar to the recommended Cascade Yarns Eco Cloud. Would I use the pattern needle recommendation US#10, Eco Cloud’s recommendation US#9, or the yarn’s needle recommendation US#8?
Thanks for your help.
Angie
Hi Angie,
Thanks for contacting us! The Bandana Cowl is knit on the looser side, so we used a 10 for maximum softness and drape. I think that you could certainly do this on an 8 or 9. Before you start the decreases at the neck, you should try the cowl on and omit them if you feel it’s necessary.
Best,
Adam
I am new to knitting and I found this super easy, fun, and quick to make. I am in love with my Bandana Cowl! I used LOOPS & THREADS Wool to Wash yarn for this pattern and I love the way it turned out!
Thanks so much for all the amazing patterns can’t wait to make more
Maddie
Is this cowl being started at the pointy (Bandana tip) end, or the upper neck edge?
Trying to visualize how it’s being created, as I’m a relatively new knitter!
Hi Olivia,
Thanks for the question! This cowl is cast on at the bottom edge and the pointy part is achieved with short rows. This is an advanced beginner cowl because it involves s2kp, knitting in the round, short rows and left and right decreases. If you feel up for it, I’d give it a shot! I’ve made about four of them and I love, love, love the pattern. Best of luck!
-Adam
Feel like I’m late to the bandana cowl party, but I have a beautiful skein of “Marjaana” yarn and would like to use it to for this cowl. Would you still use the 6mm/US10 needles to achieve roughly the same finished size? Apologies for what is probably a stupid question, but until recently I’ve just been a sort of free-form, make-it-up-as-I-go knitter and I’ve only recently started trying to follow patterns.
Hi Kezia,
You can never be late to the bandana cowl party! It’s one of my favorite projects. Marjaana is a worsted weight like the Alpaca Pure, so I think that you’ll be able to get gauge with a US 9 or US 10. I’d do a swatch in the round if you are worried about it. Thanks for writing us and let us know if you have any more questions!
-Adam
Oh…I think I figured it out…the bulky yarn should work just fine with a size 10 needle, or if I want it even “drapier” I could go up to an 11…and I can just add stitches in multiples of 4 according to how many inches I want to add…and the short rows shouldn’t be affected…I’m glad I studied this a little bit more! Please let me know if I’m incorrect with this thinking; thank you!
Hi Kathy,
Glad you figured it out! I think that if you up the needle size in combination with the yarn being larger than the original, you’ll get a size you want. Best of luck!
-Adam
hi, thanks for the lovely pattern, would it be possible to use dk weight for this as I have loads that needs using up? thanks
Hi Angie,
Great question! For this fun cowl we used a bulky weight. Two strands of DK weight held and knit together would roughly equal a bulky weight. I would recommend swatching with two strands of DK on the suggested US 10s and see if you like the fabric. If you like the resulting fabric, go ahead and knit the cowl as written!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello!
Thank you for the nice pattern
Hope that you make in video!
I can’t make the cowl without video, help me please!
Hi there,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources at the moment to add a video tutorial to the pattern, but there are many tutorial links in the pattern that show you how to do the techniques required. Best of luck!
-Adam
Do you happen to have this pattern in toddler size? I made this for myself and love it, and know my niece would love it as well! I’m still fairly new to this and dont know how to size down patterns.
Hi Monica,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! At the moment we only have the pattern written in one size. We will certainly keep you request in mind as we develop future patterns!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I’ve made it toddler sized by using US #6 (or #7 for my 4 year old) and a worsted weight yarn. It came out a great size following the pattern as written otherwise.
Quisiera saber como hacer la diminución con el punto revés. Se disminuir pero no puedo hacer el punto revés correteado. Por favor si pueden ayudarme con el patrón ya que no entiendo las explicaciones arriba.
Gracias
Hi Isabel,
Thanks for writing in. If Google Translate is correct, I think you are talking about the decreases. If you are having trouble with the decreases, YouTube has many tutorials in Spanish for SSK and K2tog. Let me know!
-Adam
I’ve managed the wrap, I think, but I lost count of rows. If I continue until I reach the marker, I will have worked through the 6 rows at the edge of the bandana. According to your picture, this is not right. Is the total number of wrapped rows 40 since the increase is for 18 rows knit and purl sides in addition to rows 7 & 8. Clearly, this will effect the edge rows. Your bandana cowl looks great and I’m determined to get it right. HELP. Thanks.
Hi Geri,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern is knit in the round, so there are no edges besides the cast on and bind off. When working the short rows in the round you will not reach your beginning of round marker until the very end of your short row repeat. This is because you are wrapping and turning from the center front and introducing more and more stitches as you continue wrapping and turning. Eventually you end up wrapping and turning just before the beginning of round marker on either side. Let me know if I can answer any other questions for you!
Best,
Adam
the Purl yarn I want to use is giving me a gauge of 3 stitches to the inch. has anyone done the calculations to the pattern for this change? I am going to cast on 67 not 89 and then figure it out as I go using the original pattern as template but it would be great if someone has already thought this out!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for writing in. I have confidence that 67 stitches will get you a good looking bandana cowl at this gauge. Make sure to bind off loosely because at this gauge and cast on you are at about 22″ in circumference without decreasing. You might not even have to decrease for this cast on. This is one of my favorite patterns and I hope you’ll like it too!
-Adam
After doing the short row repeat 18 times, I am nowhere close to my marker? I’ve redone the pattern 3 times, following it exactly and I’m still ~20 more repeats until I’d reach the marker.
Hi Shelby,
Thanks for the question. Make sure you are repeating rows seven AND eight 18 more times. This actually translates into 36 rows total. Also, whether or not you repeat these two rows 18 times or not, you will stop short rowing when you reach the beginning of round marker. Another thing to look at is if you are knitting one stitch after picking up the wrap. If you are wrapping and turning directly after picking up the wrap you might end up with more short rows. It should all work out!
-Adam
Hi Susan,
Thanks for the comment! We don’t currently have a sport weight pattern for this project but since sport weight isn’t so far off from worsted weight, you can easily add about 10-20 more stitches on to the pattern and edit the center front decrease accordingly. If you go for it, let us know how it goes!
-Adam
I just frogged my cowl… I began to see long diagonal stitches when doing the short rows…” on the knit side edge”… I am doing something wrong when picking up the wrap stitch and knitting it?.. Pattern says knit the wrap stitch and then knit one..giving 2 stitches..correct? what could it be?The way I am picking it up?
I bought from Purl Soho ..a long time ago.. Swans Island Indigo bulky yarn… I am using it and now I have blue hands.. I would like to try this again but will i have a blue neck also after wearing it? Appreciate your help..benjia
Hi Benjia,
Thank you for writing in to us! The diagonal stitch could possibly be from how you are picking up the wrapped stitch. Be sure to refer to our short rows tutorial as a reference. As for the Swans Island Indigo bulky yarn, this is quite common with indigo dyed fibers. Unfortunately, like indigo denim, the item will have to be washed (hand washed in this case) a few times before wearing it. Indigo is a tricky dye to get to stick to fiber! Best of luck on the project and please contact us again if you continue to have trouble!
-Adam
I’m thinking of making this with a worsted yak yarn, so a bit thinner than the yarn you used. For this the 89 stitches seems a little small (correct me if I am wrong). What way would be the best to increase it so it is a more realistic size (and do you think 3.75mm needles will be okay or should I go smaller?). Sorry about this, I hope you can help me out with figuring out how to get this pattern to work!
Hi Lucy,
Thanks for writing in! If the yak yarn is truly worsted, then you can use a US 8 needle for this project. If so, I’d stick with the 89 stitch cast on. If you choose to go down to a US 7, I’d cast on four to eight more stitches and adjust your center point decrease accordingly. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi,
thanks for the advice, I looked up the yarn and it recommended a 3.75-4mm, I think it is closer to sport weight. I started the pattern at 137 stitches and did the first section 2 more times (so it was a little thicker around the edges) so I ended up at 121 stitches. I more or less followed the pattern from there, but did the last section of reducing 6 times rather than 5. It’s pretty comfy and a good fit.
Hi Lucy,
So glad this worked out!
-Adam
Hi Lucy,
I am in a similar situation as you so I intend to use the solution you posted. Do I get it right that you did the first section three times?
Thank you,
Eva
Hi!
I love this cowl. But how would I make it for a toddler (16 months) with 3.5mm needles? Please and thank you. [:
Hi Marissa,
Thanks for the question! It all depends on your gauge in the round with the yarn and needles you choose. I’d multiply your stitches per inch by the toddler’s head circumference and then add an inch more of stitches. This will give you a rough cast on number. For this pattern you’ll want to make sure your cast on is an odd number. From there you’ll follow the pattern, keeping in mind that your initial stitch count for where you S2KP and wrap and turn will be different than ours. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Love this pattern. My cowl’s circumference is as you indicated, but it is 14 inches from top to tip of point, not 12. How can I correct that?
Hi Betsy,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you got stitch gauge but not row gauge. Thus the finished project is taller than expected. It is quite common to match a pattern’s required stitch gauge spot-on, but to never get the row gauge quite right, or vice versa. In this case, I would say that your cowl came out fine and you are good to go! If you would like the cowl to be a touch shorter, you can admit 1 of the 3 rows of straight knitting out of each repeat immediately following the decrease round after the short rows. This will decrease the height of the cowl by 6 rows. Depending on your row gauge, this could bring the cowl back down to the height that we achieved.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks so much, Cassy. I’m going to knit another bandana cowl in blue sky techno. It seems a bit more bulky than the Maxima yarn I used for the first cowl. I seem to get a better gauge with a size nine needle than the recommended size ten. Will the nine needle make the cowl less drapery, more stiff? Don’t want that.
Hi Betsy,
Great! Generally, going down a needle size will yield a less drapey fabric but I would knit a gauge swatch. That would give you a much better idea of the quality of the fabric created with any given needles. So long as you are getting gauge, I would go with that needle size!
Best,
Cassy
Hi, I don’t understand the instructions for rows 5 – 8. I think I just ruined the cowl and will need to begin again.
Row 5 – my question is this: when I wrap and turn, is my next step Row 6? Or am I supposed to keep doing something with Row 5?
Row 6 says purl 3, then wrap and turn. Is my next step Row 7?
Row 7 – knit to the wrapped stitch (so three stitches, then knit the wrap?) I then knit one, wrapped and turned.
At Row 8, I dead ended. It said “purl to the wrapped stitch”. The wrapped stitch was on the right needle.
I feel like I’m really missing something with these instructions.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in and I am sorry to hear about your difficulties. After your wrap and turn on row 5, you will now be on the back side of the knitting and proceed with row 6. After your wrap and turn on row 6, you will now be back on the front side of the knitting and proceed with row 7. Row 7 (in this first repeat) will see you knitting the 3 purled stitches, then knitting the wrapped stitch with its wrap, knit the next stitch and then wrap and turn the next stitch. You will then be on row 8, on the back side of the knitting where you will purl across 5 stitches to the wrapped stitch, purl that stitch with it’s wrap, purl 1 and then wrap and turn the next stitch.
I find that our tutorial is very helpful for this pattern as it clarifies the wrap and turn process! It can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/06/18/short-rows/
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi,
I made this bandana for myself last year and I love it. Thank you so much for sharing the pattern! Now I want to make one for a friend. The trouble is that the yarn I have is thinner than the one you use in the pattern: The label recommends a 4 mm needle. Could you tell me how to adapt the patter to get the same size with my yarn?
Many thanks!
Eva
Hi Eva,
So glad you love the pattern. I suggest you cast on 99 stitches instead of 89. this should take care of the gauge difference. Make sure you K48 before the S2KP instead of 43. Other than that, everything is the same.
-Adam
This is my first attempt at a bandana cowl, and understand the wrap and turn, but in the pattern I knit 42 wrap and turn then p3 and wrap, am I to be knitting to the end, find this piece confusing. Pleas advise, thanks
Hi Gloria,
Thanks for the question. Wrap and turn is a technique used to add more fabric to a certain area of the piece. In this case, it’s center front. After you p3, you’ll wrap and turn and knit 1 stitch past the original wrap. You will not hit the end of round marker until you’ve completed all wrap and turns. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Hi there. First time knitting win short rows and I am lost, even after reading through the comments.
With row 5, after I turn, do I knit to where I started, or do I then purl 3, wrap and turn them knit to that wrapped stitch? I’m lost as to how many stitches to knit or purl after turning on the short rows. It seems like I would be knitting/purling only a couple of stitches at that point before wrapping and turning again.
I think I figured out the short rows! At least, I think my brain did – I haven’t had a chance yet to try it. The short rows start in the V and the wrap and turn are at the edging so it’s not easy to see in the photo. I am giving this a go tonight, cannot wait!
Hi Delanie,
Thanks for writing back! You have got it correct!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello!
I’ve made this cowl once or twice now and it’s always beautiful, but I’ve noticed the garter stitch edges keep flipping in toward the knit side, and don’t lie flat. Any suggestions?
Hi Fran,
Thanks for writing in! I suggest wet blocking your piece after you are finished. If you lay the cowl flat to dry, you shouldn’t experience this problem anymore. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi there! Just made this and it was great fun. An easy way to learn short rows.
Can you suggest how you block it? I’m wondering if I should find something that’s like a wide cylinder to put it around to block.
Hi Vivi!
Thank you for writing in! We have a great tutorial for blocking right here. There’s no need to wrap it around anything for blocking, you can lay it flat.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi!
I have finished the short rows, I think… I’ve gotten to the last stitches next to the markers but now I’m not sure how to work the next rows. I’ve picked up the wrapped stitch next to the marker, and the pattern then reads, “Next Round: With the knit side facing you, knit to the marker, making sure to pick up the wrapped stitch.” I believe I did this next row correctly, but once I come back to the marker to continue knitting in the round, the next stitch is the wrap stitch and I’m not sure how to pick it up being on the knit side.. I’ve tried a couple things and it definitely doesn’t look right, and I’m just not sure how to do it.
I suppose it could be the way the pattern is written and I’m not just understanding it correctly. I’m not even sure that my issue makes sense!! Any guidance would be helpful.
Thanks!
Hi Liz,
For this wrap I suggest you orient your wrap and live stitch on the left-hand needle as such:
From left to right you will have the live stitch followed by the wrap. They are not over lapping and are parallel to each other. Then you will knit both of these together to continue in the round.
Hope this helps!
-Adam
Oh, the short rows. I *think* I just finished short rows, as both wrapped stitches are next to each other and separated by my stitch marker. Yahoo! The pattern then says “with the knit side facing you”, but following the natural progression of my work I’ve landed on purl. Here’s my question: if the last show row was knit and resulted in my wrapped stitch next to the marker (putting both wrapped stitched divided by the marker only), should I land on purling? If so…how to I position my work to land me back on knit side? Eeek!
Hi Ashley,
So glad you’ve got it! You should have purled, wr-t to then land both wraps next to the marker. However, if your last wr-t is on a knit side, you’ll simply skip the wrap and turn, pass the beginning of round marker and pick up your “purl side wrap” on the knit side. From here on out you continue in the round with the knit side facing out. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Would it be okay to use 24″ circulars instead of 16″?
Hi Caryn,
Thanks for writing in! For this pattern I think that a 24″ cable would be too long. The finished circumference of this bandana cowl is 19 inches and you want your cable to be a bit shorter than this to allow the stitches not to be stretched out. A 24 inch cable would stretch the stitches out and make it challenging or impossible to knit in the pattern.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Currently knitting my short rows on this but seem to keep coming back to the front point to wrap my stitch… How does the wrap stitch move around to the marker, which is still at the back of the cowl…? I’m new to short rows so maybe I’m just worrying about nothing…?
Hi Emma,
Thanks for the question. I’m not certain I understand what you mean, but I’ll try to clarify anyway. When you do short rows you knit a certain part of the fabric more to get more fabric in that section. In this case, we are short rowing the middle of the cowl so we can get that elongated bandana look. So, your first wr-t happens a few stitches beyond center and then on the wrong side your second wr-t happens a few stitches beyond the other side of center. Each time you come to a wrap you’ll pick it up as shown in our tutorial and knit one beyond that before wrapping and turning again. This way you progress one stitch each row, getting you closer and closer to the end of round marker. Hope this is clear!
-Adam
I am a new knitter and didn’t realize I’d have to check the size. It turned our beautifully, but too small to fit over my head.
I would like to try again. Any suggestions if I need a circumference of at least 22 inches? How many to cast on and where would markers go? Any help would be very much appreciated.
Hi Sandy,
Thanks for writing in. It all depends on what size yarn and needle you are knitting with. If you let me know the stitch gauge I can help you out.
All the best,
Adam
Hello,
This is my first time with short rows. I am at row 8 now and it looks like I am doing something wrong because instead of the front growing, just the side is growing. I’ve reread the pattern but I can’t figure out where I’ve gone wrong. I’m wr-ting at the center above the “pointed” part and then again at the back of the neck and this seems wrong. I’m sure this is just a silly mistake, but I am determined to make this pattern. Thoughts? Thanks!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for the question. You should be doing your first wr-t just beyond the center point and purling back to the same stitch on the other side of center. You’ll knit back and forth, picking up the wraps as you go, until you have reached your beginning of round marker. Think of it that you are adding on one more stitch to the left and right of center in order to make it all the way to the center back. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Hi Adam
I am using a #10 U.S. needle, and getting 5 stitches and 6 rows per inch.
Thanks for your anticipated help!
Regards,
Sandy
Any thoughts on my questions? I I am a new knitter and didn’t realize I’d have to check the size. It turned our beautifully, but too small to fit over my head.
I would like to try again. Any suggestions if I need a circumference of at least 22 inches? How many to cast on and where would markers go? I am using a #10 U.S. needle, and getting 5 stitches and 6 rows per inch. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Sandy
Hello Sandy,
Sorry to hear that the cowl didn’t fit over your head! Five stitches per inch is a bit tight of a gauge, so maybe I’d move up a needle size before changing the pattern. If you want to increase the amount of stitches, you’ll have to change how many you knit up to before the S2KP and how many stitches you knit before your first wrap and turn.
All the best,
Adam
I’ve gotten through the short rows ending with the wrap turns on either side of the marker. However when I started knitting in the round I ended up with a big hole where the marker is. I didn’t drop a stitch and I picked up the stitches like the pattern said. I’m wondering if there should be a hole?
Hi Madison,
Thanks for the question. I’ve seen a hole occur at this point in the pattern before, but not a huge one. If you the hole is big you can do one of two things. One, you can sew up the hole at the end with the cast on tail. And two, you can tighten the tension by pulling up on the yarn for a few stitches when you pass the beginning of round marker. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Love this pattern and can’t wait to finish! I’m in the middle of the short rows section and just want to understand, as that thing about 18 reps of rows 7 and 8 is really throwing me off.
As I understand it, I’m doing one additional stitch after picking up each wrap, meaning the short rows are growing by one stitch (on either the knit side or the purl side) each time. Right? But since there are a total of 40 stitches on each side from the tip to the end-of-round marker, it looks like I’m actually going to be repeating rows 7 and 8 a total of 40 times each to get to the end.
What am I missing? I’ve already done 24 repeats of rows 7 and 8 and am only a little more than halfway to the end-of-round marker! Have I made a mistake somewhere?
Hi Shannon,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help. On each short row you are knitting to the wrapped stitch, knitting the wrapped stitch making sure to pick up the wrap, k1, wrap and turn. That is to say that, you are knitting 1 stitch between the precious wrapped stitch and the next stitch that you are wrapping. This accounts for the additional stitches and means that you will only need to repeat rows 7 and 8 18 additional times. Based on your description, it sounds as though the stitch between the wrapped stitches are missing.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Would it be possible to make this in a sport weight yarn? If so, how many skeins would I need, what would the needle size be and would I have to make any adjustments? Thaks!
Hi Blair,
Thanks for writing in. This cowl can be made in any weight but you’ll have to adjust the pattern’s cast on depending on your gauge. How many skeins you will need depends on the yarn you plan on using so I can’t really tell you an accurate number. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
I’m not sure what happened here, but I got to the end of the short rows and started on the knit row and found the first two stitches looking like slipped stitches and the third being the wrapped stitch. At the end of the short row on the other side it’s made it’s way to the end, so not sure what I did! Help? Any way to correct this without froggin’ it?
Hi Carrie,
Thanks for the question. I’m not sure if I’ve fully understood your question. If you have finished the short row sections you should pick up your wrap at the end of the knit row, slip the marker and then pick the the wrap that was made on the purl side knitwise. If you end up with a hole at center back, you can easily sew this up with your cast on yarn tail at the end. I hope I’ve helped in some way!
Adam
Hello Rex!
Yes that would be exactly how you go about making this pattern smaller. The best way to go about calculating how many fewer stitches to cast on is to calculate how many inches smaller you want the end product to be in circumference and then multiple by the gauge and subtract that many stitches from the cast on number. For example, if you want to make the final piece 2″ smaller in circumference, you would subtract 8 total stitches (4 stitches x 2″). Everything else wouldn’t change very much, just continue the short rows until you wrap the stitches right next to the markers.
Happy knitting! Hope your nephews enjoy these! -Alyson